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Start Invierno 6 April 18

KinkyOne

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I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
I have booked at Soldon in Mai for two short days between ARua and Quiroga. Guess that when I arrive there I would have liked going on toQuiroga.
When approximately do you plan to join the Sanabres?
 

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ranthr

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Irun to Santander 2013
Porto to SdC 2014
Astorga to SdC 2015

Charrito

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I have booked at Soldon in Mai for two short days between ARua and Quiroga. Guess that when I arrive there I would have liked going on toQuiroga.
My doubt about staying in Soldón is that there is absolutely nothing to do there if the chiringuito is not open. I'm not 100% clear about whether they provide any sort of refreshment in the apartments (apparently not), so you would need to stock up in A Rúa beforehand.
 

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KinkyOne

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I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
My doubt about staying in Soldón is that there is absolutely nothing to do there if the chiringuito is not open. I'm not 100% clear about whether they provide any sort of refreshment in the apartments (apparently not), so you would need to stock up in A Rúa beforehand.
Agree. It's and odd place to stay overnight if it isn't summer and a hot day so you can take a swim by the chiringuito.
And Quiroga is quite close especially if you take the old road option instead of going over the hill.
 

Charrito

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Agree. It's and odd place to stay overnight if it isn't summer and a hot day so you can take a swim by the chiringuito.
And Quiroga is quite close especially if you take the old road option instead of going over the hill.
 

Charrito

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I have booked at Soldon in Mai for two short days between ARua and Quiroga. Guess that when I arrive there I would have liked going on toQuiroga.
It's probably only another 6 or 7 kilometres to Quiroga. The problem is that after Quiroga there's a fairly long stage to A Pobra do Brollón, with just Pensión Pacita down by the river in Barxa do Lor.

My 'trick' of walking from A Rúa to Montefurado in the afternoon (after the relatively short stage from O Barco), and then back on the train to A Rúa works well, especially if you can get a lift to Montefurado the following morning (or catch the train that leaves around 10 o'clock), which makes sense.

Anyone who walks all the way from O Barco to Soldón to stay there in the apartments could, I suppose, do a stage from Soldón to A Pobra the day after. But that would mean missing out on Bar Aroza for a great welcome and meal in Quiroga!
 
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OzAnnie

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I have booked at Soldon in Mai for two short days between ARua and Quiroga. Guess that when I arrive there I would have liked going on toQuiroga.
@ranthr
In May the wet will have dried and should be perfect for you. Quiroga is a good town with choice. Just watch out coming down from
Bendilló to Soldón for the camino signs on right hand side of road taking you up. At same position on left hand side is a path down via left side which also has yellow signs once you take it. Plus a pointer on the road to the left.

Annie
 

KinkyOne

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Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
@ranthr
In May the wet will have dried and should be perfect for you. Quiroga is a good town with choice. Just watch out coming down from
Bendilló to Soldón for the camino signs on right hand side of road taking you up. At same position on left hand side is a path down via left side which also has yellow signs once you take it. Plus a pointer on the road to the left.

Annie
That right turn is complete nonsense although I didn't take and don't know how it looks but a short peek at the map gave me the picture. If you go over the road and left through the village (Soldon) it makes more sense. Evan if you stay on old tarmac road after Soldon it's OK but you'll miss a castle or something, I forgot, because the Camino goes up to the right on the other side of the tarmac road.
 

OzAnnie

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Day 7.
Vilarino (casa el Torre ) to Chantada.
Firstly ., don’t follow my path today !
I’ve taken myself ‘a wandering along that mountain track!’ Today.
In an attempt to avoid mud which I envisaged due to persistent rain (even though the guide didn’t mention more)...
it had rained during the night, and it was still poncho weather leaving the casa rural. I was rather late leaving due to a couple of reasons.
Susanna from night before explained that breakfast was to be downstairs at 9am. All was dark and no removal done yet of my previous nights supper of cheese and quince and coffee
At 9.15am, I called all 3 numbers I had ., I couldn’t leave as she hadn’t taken payment, nor sighted any of my documentation. After a while a young chap (boyfriend of the young waitress I had not seen before ) came and guided me to a bar !!! Where breakfast was. No one had shown me around properly the night before. I’d been sitting on my own !! Poor me!!
So waitress was Lucía ., her dad was at the bar and for a while I thought he was (el jefe) but he explained that susanna was la Jefa.. not sure what her story was ... I didn’t see her again. She was really friendly the night before but had been getting about in sleep gear the whole time so possibly she was not 100% well.
So Lucía fixed payment etc ... which I hadn’t even asked about the day before.. I was so whacked I would have paid premium. It was room E30. On arrival huge cervesa con limon. Meal (afternoon arrival meal with vino blanco about 5pm mmmm)
Later 9pm coffee & cheese & quince / breakfast , juice cake tostada coffee Total cost 44 + IVA 4.40
Total E48.40. There was a lot included in that price and room was really spacious with double bed., heating , wifi Squeaky wooden floor but I think I was the only one in that section of the building, so I wouldnt have bothered anyone.
So back to the wandering — I tried to explain to these Galicians that I didn’t fancy any more mud today and wondered at the condition of the steep track down to the Rio Mino and up out. I doubt they really understood all I said as I did get across that if possible were there any ‘hard surface’ options?
Suffice to say: the papa offered to drive me to Escairon —-and explained for me to follow LP 617 all the way to Chantada. ?!?!?!

(In hindsight the LP 5807 looks to have started near the casa (looks hard surface at beginning in my photos ., but I walked a loop to get back on it later .)

Well, I decided to try his idea- and set off walking from escairon in full poncho gear. It was still raining. Walking was easy but when I looked at maps me. I could see I was going to walk way, way, way loop. So decided to guide myself through ..... I took left after a while which was LU-P- 5806 which was a nice wander / a few loose dogs on this road though. I put them in their place but not a good way for dog phobes. . It’s on hard road across to meet back up with 5807!! Back on camino.

When I arrived at the bus shelter where you start going down to left to Rio Mino I rested and snacked on last nights leftovers.. cheese and quince and bread. A mum and daughter came past and I started chatting until she said I had an English accent .. Voila! She was English teaching English in Spain. So we discussed the trail down and up or possibly taking road all round. She indicated it was a lot longer by road but that if I wasn’t worried about water , to give the trail a go.
So .... a bit mucky but mainly dead leaf etc and Roman slippery rocks. So care taken with my steps and lots of breaks to care for muscles going down.
Quite lovely. Not a soul about and at bottom a dog came to meet me but only people about were at the jetty. No body knew anything about a bar. Didn’t find any bar or coffee etc between breakfast and arrival in Chantada. (Menu Del dia at Mesón Lucus E15 ). Very welcome. Passed other possible places but closed mid week on off season.

Then I climbed up - poco a pocooooooooooo!
Very slowly. At one point I thought I had to cross the river or (raging stream) across some rock steps. It doesn’t show really in the photo but the water was well over the 2nd step so I knew if I started I’d be standing in the water (praying).. as the 3rd rock was on up on the edge - not flat topped- so realised I’d be taking that step in faith and hoping I didn’t topple before pushing off onto 4th and then to the other side. I was frightened here. I couldn’t believe I did it !!! I pictured everything in the white water including me- I had thought the road around was a long diversion but probably not !!!! Not sure.
So more up —- should have taken the road like @KinkyOne but kept up on the killer camino. Thru a lot of mucky stuff near the top. (Cow trail)..
Quite a long way into Chantada. Even getting a ride to escairon my Fitbit reads 20.5 to Pension Yoel. Private room with bath E17. No heating / freezing. I had a rest on arrival - added blankets but I know tonight I’ll use my sleeping bag also.
I wasn’t told of wifi and so haven’t bothered.edit: wifi code in bedside drawer: Weak signal tho.
I’m at Cafe Bar enigma which has wifi.and is warm.
This is opposite the pharmacy which I can see froM room in the pension. Bought more plasters there.
Kinky - you still have to ring to be let in to hostel by the lady. She’s quite pleasant tho.

I have walked alone for 7 days but have not felt worried about being alone (except for that crossing today )..

Tomorrow / take it as it comes.
Annie
 

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ranthr

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C Frances 2005, 2007
Le Puy en Velay -SdC 2009
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gr 653 from Oloron to Puente la Reina 2012
Gr65 from le Puy to Figeac 2013
Irun to Santander 2013
Porto to SdC 2014
Astorga to SdC 2015
Annie, you struggling, brave woman!
I know the feeling of wading through froading water on steppingstones. Tried on the Via de la Plata, and hope never again.
Weather is out of course these days in Spain. See people have a lot of trouble with water on the Frances too. Hope you get some dry weather up on the Faro tomorrow!
 

KinkyOne

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I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
Day 7.
Vilarino (casa el Torre ) to Chantada.
Firstly ., don’t follow my path today !
I’ve taken myself ‘a wandering along that mountain track!’ Today.
In an attempt to avoid mud which I envisaged due to persistent rain (even though the guide didn’t mention more)...
it had rained during the night, and it was still poncho weather leaving the casa rural. I was rather late leaving due to a couple of reasons.
Susanna from night before explained that breakfast was to be downstairs at 9am. All was dark and no removal done yet of my previous nights supper of cheese and quince and coffee
At 9.15am, I called all 3 numbers I had ., I couldn’t leave as she hadn’t taken payment, nor sighted any of my documentation. After a while a young chap (boyfriend of the young waitress I had not seen before ) came and guided me to a bar !!! Where breakfast was. No one had shown me around properly the night before. I’d been sitting on my own !! Poor me!!
So waitress was Lucía ., her dad was at the bar and for a while I thought he was (el jefe) but he explained that susanna was la Jefa.. not sure what her story was ... I didn’t see her again. She was really friendly the night before but had been getting about in sleep gear the whole time so possibly she was not 100% well.
So Lucía fixed payment etc ... which I hadn’t even asked about the day before.. I was so whacked I would have paid premium. It was room E30. On arrival huge cervesa con limon. Meal (afternoon arrival meal with vino blanco about 5pm mmmm)
Later 9pm coffee & cheese & quince / breakfast , juice cake tostada coffee Total cost 44 + IVA 4.40
Total E48.40. There was a lot included in that price and room was really spacious with double bed., heating , wifi Squeaky wooden floor but I think I was the only one in that section of the building, so I wouldnt have bothered anyone.
So back to the wandering — I tried to explain to these Galicians that I didn’t fancy any more mud today and wondered at the condition of the steep track down to the Rio Mino and up out. I doubt they really understood all I said as I did get across that if possible were there any ‘hard surface’ options?
Suffice to say: the papa offered to drive me to Escairon —-and explained for me to follow LP 617 all the way to Chantada. ?!?!?!

(In hindsight the LP 5807 looks to have started near the casa (looks hard surface at beginning in my photos ., but I walked a loop to get back on it later .)

Well, I decided to try his idea- and set off walking from escairon in full poncho gear. It was still raining. Walking was easy but when I looked at maps me. I could see I was going to walk way, way, way loop. So decided to guide myself through ..... I took left after a while which was LU-P- 5806 which was a nice wander / a few loose dogs on this road though. I put them in their place but not a good way for dog phobes. . It’s on hard road across to meet back up with 5807!! Back on camino.

When I arrived at the bus shelter where you start going down to left to Rio Mino I rested and snacked on last nights leftovers.. cheese and quince and bread. A mum and daughter came past and I started chatting until she said I had an English accent .. Voila! She was English teaching English in Spain. So we discussed the trail down and up or possibly taking road all round. She indicated it was a lot longer by road but that if I wasn’t worried about water , to give the trail a go.
So .... a bit mucky but mainly dead leaf etc and Roman slippery rocks. So care taken with my steps and lots of breaks to care for muscles going down.
Quite lovely. Not a soul about and at bottom a dog came to meet me but only people about were at the jetty. No body knew anything about a bar. Didn’t find any bar or coffee etc between breakfast and arrival in Chantada. (Menu Del dia at Mesón Lucus E15 ). Very welcome. Passed other possible places but closed mid week on off season.

Then I climbed up - poco a pocooooooooooo!
Very slowly. At one point I thought I had to cross the river or (raging stream) across some rock steps. It doesn’t show really in the photo but the water was well over the 2nd step so I knew if I started I’d be standing in the water (praying).. as the 3rd rock was on up on the edge - not flat topped- so realised I’d be taking that step in faith and hoping I didn’t topple before pushing off onto 4th and then to the other side. I was frightened here. I couldn’t believe I did it !!! I pictured everything in the white water including me- I had thought the road around was a long diversion but probably not !!!! Not sure.
So more up —- should have taken the road like @KinkyOne but kept up on the killer camino. Thru a lot of mucky stuff near the top. (Cow trail)..
Quite a long way into Chantada. Even getting a ride to escairon my Fitbit reads 20.5 to Pension Yoel. Private room with bath E17. No heating / freezing. I had a rest on arrival - added blankets but I know tonight I’ll use my sleeping bag also.
I wasn’t told of wifi and so haven’t bothered.
I’m at Cafe Bar enigma which has wifi.and is warm.
This is opposite the pharmacy which I can see froM room in the pension. Bought more plasters there.

I have walked alone for 7 days but have not felt worried about being alone (except for that crossing today )..

Tomorrow / take it as it comes.
Annie
Oh, I understand how you were feeling today on that killer inclines. I was walking them in heat but in rain I just don't know if I would go through.

But tomorrow will be much easier. The route is more or less asphalt or light gravel so no mud. And I hope you won't have more rain as this was the nicest stage for me with wonderful views and intermediate stops.

Ultreia!
 

OzAnnie

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Annie, you struggling, brave woman!
I know the feeling of wading through froading water on steppingstones. Tried on the Via de la Plata, and hope never again.
Weather is out of course these days in Spain. See people have a lot of trouble with water on the Frances too. Hope you get some dry weather up on the Faro tomorrow!
Thanks ranthr
Once you start though, it’s hard to give up.
Annie
 

MickMac

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Keep the head up Annie, it sounds cold and lonely (Perfect) I can feel the chill wind from here, great read.

Buen Camino.
 

OzAnnie

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Keep the head up Annie, it sounds cold and lonely (Perfect) I can feel the chill wind from here, great read.

Buen Camino.
Ha ha. I wonder why that sounds familiar.
Head is often watching where I’m putting my feet. Still have time for photos and friendly dogs though.
I’m surprised at myself though with the lonely walking. It feels okay. You know., like when you just decide at home to go out for a walk alone. I thought I’d need to meet up with company at night but I guess because you haven’t got heaps of time spare , it hasn’t been an issue.
Thanks for the encouragement- always good ..
Annie
 

KinkyOne

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I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
Ha ha. I wonder why that sounds familiar.
Head is often watching where I’m putting my feet. Still have time for photos and friendly dogs though.
I’m surprised at myself though with the lonely walking. It feels okay. You know., like when you just decide at home to go out for a walk alone. I thought I’d need to meet up with company at night but I guess because you haven’t got heaps of time spare , it hasn’t been an issue.
Thanks for the encouragement- always good ..
Annie
No worries, Annie, in approx. two days you'll hit the Sanabres and I bet there will be some more company for the last 2-3 days into Santiago. At least that was my experience and a nice one too.

You're a trooper!!!
 

Charrito

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Annie:

The idea of walking from Escairón is another of my 'tricks'! I imagine you found the cheese factory, where you turn left to Diomondi, easily.

Let us all know what you think about Mesón Lucus, now under new management. I have eaten there many times in the past and have nothing but praise for the place and service.

Monte do Faro tomorrow! Not as frightening as many think, and great views. Have a cocido in Lalín! First, you need to stop over in Rodeiro, of course.

It will be a big shock to the system the day after, when you meet up with people walking the Sanabrés!
 

OzAnnie

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Hi Charrito
I didn’t think I was doing any trick doing the Escairón variant. I thought I walked further that if I would have commenced on 5807 near Vilariño
As I said earlier ,taking the turn left on the 5806 brought me back to 5807 just before the descent left turn. Do you feel it was a shortcut ?
It was easy to find with maps me.
This Invierno route has surprises every day. I feel the only easy one is to A Rúa. But I walked in the afternoon on that one to Montefurado ( your trick)to shorten the next day.
I wasn’t fussed with the meal at Mesón Lucus. Ok. The piece of bacaloa was huge and I didn’t feel it was cooked as well as it could have been I had a lovely pudding for dessert and ist course was a really tasty quiche with all sorts of vegetables. Really nice.

Today I reached a little outer place 2k from Rodeiro called A Feira. Just 10 minutes before 4. So opted to asked for something here. I was fed but it was late and the food reflected it. Filled me though.
There are about 12 or 13 men in here playing some sort of card game on two tables. They really get excited.

Immediately coming out of Penasillas , where I popped into Taberno do Peto for coffee and gear up into rain gear. Poncho etc. it started coming down there -
Immediately leaving there- there is an intersection with camino signs mainly indicating to turn right plus straight up. I took the straight up which I believe is the camino. Not sure where the others take you.

That straight up !! Is a real doozie. Another one on the Invierno.. my body hasn’t got many more hills left in the tank!! All misted up in the ascent. No view pics as it was quite rainy and fogged up.
Coming down through the fields in particular there was considerable mud in places.

Onward to Rodeiro. I have room reserved at Hostal Carpinteiras.
Tomorrow only to Lalin. I’ll try Kinkys way and walk on the PO 533
Annie
 

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Charrito

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Hi Charrito
I didn’t think I was doing any trick doing the Escairón variant. I thought I walked further that if I would have commenced on 5807 near Vilariño
As I said earlier ,taking the turn left on the 5806 brought me back to 5807 just before the descent left turn. Do you feel it was a shortcut ?
It was easy to find with maps me.
This Invierno route has surprises every day. I feel the only easy one is to A Rúa. But I walked in the afternoon on that one to Montefurado ( your trick)to shorten the next day.
I wasn’t fussed with the meal at Mesón Lucus. Ok. The piece of bacaloa was huge and I didn’t feel it was cooked as well as it could have been I had a lovely pudding for dessert and ist course was a really tasty quiche with all sorts of vegetables. Really nice.

Today I reached a little outer place 2k from Rodeiro called A Feira. Just 10 minutes before 4. So opted to asked for something here. I was fed but it was late and the food reflected it. Filled me though.
There are about 12 or 13 men in here playing some sort of card game on two tables. They really get excited.

Immediately coming out of Penasillas , where I popped into Taberno do Peto for coffee and gear up into rain gear. Poncho etc. it started coming down there -
Immediately leaving there- there is an intersection with camino signs mainly indicating to turn right plus straight up. I took the straight up which I believe is the camino. Not sure where the others take you.

That straight up !! Is a real doozie. Another one on the Invierno.. my body hasn’t got many more hills left in the tank!! All misted up in the ascent. No view pics as it was quite rainy and fogged up.
Coming down through the fields in particular there was considerable mud in places.

Onward to Rodeiro. I have room reserved at Hostal Carpinteiras.
Tomorrow only to Lalin. I’ll try Kinkys way and walk on the PO 533
Annie
I didn't mean it was any sort of cheating, Annie! By 'trick', I refer to alternatives in order to avoid certain nasty stretches.

You must have stopped in the Bar O Recanto in Leboro/A Feira.

You'll be fine in the Hostal Carpinteiras, even though it's a bit out of town. I quite like Rodeiro.

The road from Rodeiro to Lalín is pretty boring, although there's little traffic (you have a slip road), but the Camino is much more interesting.

Have a good evening, and ¡Buen Camino!
 

OzAnnie

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Just to add to my earlier post today - I see from reading Laurie’s Invierno guide covering the section from Penasillas to Rodeiro, that the reason for the arrows indicating right where I took uphill to
Monte do faro ., was because that would have been an accepted way also ., going via the road and not making the climb. In the circumstances of today ., may have been worth considering (for the knees’ sake ) as it was all fogged in from half way up anyway. Still I can possibly ‘earn stripes ‘ for taking the up way , lol.
I’m sitting in Hostal Carpinteiras.. they gave me a key to the room but still haven’t booked any paperwork or stamped my Credencial It’s all ‘ later !!’
Room is cold and no spare blankets. I had hoped I’d find a warmer thingie in the room so I could dry some gear. I feel like a medieval pilgrim today.
When I came out of that bar close to 5 today — talk about ‘high.....peeeewwww. Cows about and a lot of slush. I decided not to follow the arrows into more ‘meadows ‘ and follow Carretera EP 6201 into Rodeiro but a little further on I saw a ‘straight track’ to the right which looked pretty firm and wide and free of cow trails. I followed that into town and joined back to 6201 ., then using maps me, rather the going into town , I followed the quickest route to the Hostal. I’m getting used to this maps me now and it’s quite comforting being able to check just where you are in relation to camino tracks.
 

Charrito

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Just to add to my earlier post today - I see from reading Laurie’s Invierno guide covering the section from Penasillas to Rodeiro, that the reason for the arrows indicating right where I took uphill to
Monte do faro ., was because that would have been an accepted way also ., going via the road and not making the climb. In the circumstances of today ., may have been worth considering (for the knees’ sake ) as it was all fogged in from half way up anyway. Still I can possibly ‘earn stripes ‘ for taking the up way , lol.
I’m sitting in Hostal Carpinteiras.. they gave me a key to the room but still haven’t booked any paperwork or stamped my Credencial It’s all ‘ later !!’
Room is cold and no spare blankets. I had hoped I’d find a warmer thingie in the room so I could dry some gear. I feel like a medieval pilgrim today.
When I came out of that bar close to 5 today — talk about ‘high.....peeeewwww. Cows about and a lot of slush. I decided not to follow the arrows into more ‘meadows ‘ and follow Carretera EP 6201 into Rodeiro but a little further on I saw a ‘straight track’ to the right which looked pretty firm and wide and free of cow trails. I followed that into town and joined back to 6201 ., then using maps me, rather the going into town , I followed the quickest route to the Hostal. I’m getting used to this maps me now and it’s quite comforting being able to check just where you are in relation to camino tracks.
Keep warm! The weather is getting better next Tuesday!
 

MickMac

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Annie.

Is anyone walking with you? the pics look very empty be careful.
 

OzAnnie

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Annie.

Is anyone walking with you? the pics look very empty be careful.
Hi Michael
I haven’t seen another pilgrim in the 8 days of walking this route. I have been sola..
One night there was another peregrina staying in the same Hostal at Quiroga. We had evening chat.
I have seen a few footprints so there are some on track I guess, but haven’t spotted another backpack yet. By tomorrow/tonight I should be nearing intersection with Sanabrés and as such the peregrinos from Vdlp should filter in.
I have been careful, and actually there have been very few people out at all including Spanish townsfolk.
Weather hasn’t been good for outdoors for them either .
Weather forecast for today Saturday doesn’t show rain !!! Let’s hope it’s right. Although my app shows more to come for tomorrow etc

Thanks for checking on me
Annie
 

VNwalking

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Ingles (July 2018)
Wow, Annie, thank you for your posts!
The Invierno has been 'on my list' so I'm so enjoying your realistic blow by blow account - a lot because you seem to walk more like me than like Laurie and K1!;)
Going through there by train put the fear of God in me. It's really gorgeous, but I can only imagine the ups and downs!
Take care and a very buen camino to you!
 

t2andreo

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances: 2013, 2014
Madrid: 2016
Portuguese: 2015, 2017
Voluntario: 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
I started from Ponferrada yesterday. All the information in this thread, plus the guide Laurie updated, has been very helpful. In addition I LOVE the real time map in the Wise Pilgrim Guide for the Camino Invierno.

If you have a smartphone with location services turned on, and a data plan, it functions much like an ‘eye in the sky.’ Just keep the blue dot (you) on the red line (camino) and no one gets lost...;)

True, there are some minor route differences, but I find myself reviewing the written guide the night before, but using the Wise Guide in real time.

The only downside is that the constant location ‘pinging’ burns through battery life. Fortunately I planned ahead and bought a 6000 mwh battery case for my iPhone 6s from Amazon.

It takes THAT much battery capacity to run GPS-like apps all day long, even on the background. I need to talk to Mike Matynka about that when I get to Santiago.

The single best use is to settle your mind when you have not seen a marker in a while. Though I must say that, as far as O’Barco de Valedorras (night two), I have not made one bad turn yet.

It did take a while yesterday to get my ‘yellow arrow’ sixth sense booted and running fully. NOW I do not miss a marker. The local associations and government have done a credible job at installing mojones. I am satisfied so far with the route marking...stay tuned...

There are fewer markings and mojones than on the Frances, and you must PAY ATTENTION. But, everytime I thought I might have missed something, I just stopped, looked, and paid attention to my surroundings. Not a problem. Either a mojone or a yellow arrow presented itself straight away. Oh ye of little faith!

The weather has been cooperating, and the forecast is for mostly dry days this coming week...fingers crossed..

There has been some mud, but nothing that stuck to the bottom of my shoes at day’s end. Although, one particularly nasty mud swale ‘ate’ one of my rubber hiking pole tips on my first day. I carry one spare, so I am still “balanced.” No more fooling around. When I see mud, I am pulling those suckers off and pocketing them.

There have been quite a few dogs, including several unleashed fellows. But, there were no run ins...yet. I just follow my own advice and go into ‘dog whisperer’ mode.

I did have one large dog that came up to me at a cafe and made ‘puppy eyes.’ Okay, so I shared my snack with him. What can I say, I am a sucker for ‘puppy dog eyes.’ Bet this shaggy Shepard mix does that to all the pilgrims...

The only ‘major’ problem I am having is that my heels are giving me serious callus problems. I had a good pedicure last week. My orthotics are fresh and boots well broken in. The this is a recurring problem for me. But on this camino, it is hitting me right out of the box. I need to think on it more.

Of course, I made the same ‘newbie’ mistake I made on every one of my previous caminos. No one is immune from stupid!

Today, I mailed ANOTHER 2.2 kg or over 5 pounds of stuff I did not need. I also did this BEFORE I left Ponferrada. Fortunately, the post office at O'Barco de Valedorras was open on Saturday. Made it just in time.

Now, once I get my feet sorted, I should be okay. Luckily, a pharmacy had the heel bandages I needed, and I picked up some inexpensive cotton socks in the local supermercado to help treat me feet. Got to take it one day at a time...

Thanks for everything. Hope this helps.
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
I started from Ponferrada yesterday. All the information in this thread, plus the guide Laurie updated, has been very helpful. In addition I LOVE the real time map in the Wise Pilgrim Guide for the Camino Invierno.

If you have a smartphone with location services turned on, and a data plan, it functions much like an ‘eye in the sky.’ Just keep the blue dot (you) on the red line (camino) and no one gets lost...;)

True, there are some minor route differences, but I find myself reviewing the written guide the night before, but using the Wise Guide in real time.

The only downside is that the constant location ‘pinging’ burns through battery life. Fortunately I planned ahead and bought a 6000 mwh battery case for my iPhone 6s from Amazon.

It takes THAT much battery capacity to run GPS-like apps all day long, even on the background. I need to talk to Mike Matynka about that when I get to Santiago.

The single best use is to settle your mind when you have not seen a marker in a while. Though I must say that, as far as O’Barco de Valedorras (night two), I have not made one bad turn yet.

It did take a while yesterday to get my ‘yellow arrow’ sixth sense booted and running fully. NOW I do not miss a marker. The local associations and government have done a credible job at installing mojones. I am satisfied so far with the route marking...stay tuned...

There are fewer markings and mojones than on the Frances, and you must PAY ATTENTION. But, everytime I thought I might have missed something, I just stopped, looked, and paid attention to my surroundings. Not a problem. Either a mojone or a yellow arrow presented itself straight away. Oh ye of little faith!

The weather has been cooperating, and the forecast is for mostly dry days this coming week...fingers crossed..

There has been some mud, but nothing that stuck to the bottom of my shoes at day’s end. Although, one particularly nasty mud swale ‘ate’ one of my rubber hiking pole tips on my first day. I carry one spare, so I am still “balanced.” No more fooling around. When I see mud, I am pulling those suckers off and pocketing them.

There have been quite a few dogs, including several unleashed fellows. But, there were no run ins...yet. I just follow my own advice and go into ‘dog whisperer’ mode.

I did have one large dog that came up to me at a cafe and made ‘puppy eyes.’ Okay, so I shared my snack with him. What can I say, I am a sucker for ‘puppy dog eyes.’ Bet this shaggy Shepard mix does that to all the pilgrims...

The only ‘major’ problem I am having is that my heels are giving me serious callus problems. I had a good pedicure last week. My orthotics are fresh and boots well broken in. The this is a recurring problem for me. But on this camino, it is hitting me right out of the box. I need to think on it more.

Of course, I made the same ‘newbie’ mistake I made on every one of my previous caminos. No one is immune from stupid!

Today, I mailed ANOTHER 2.2 kg or over 5 pounds of stuff I did not need. I also did this BEFORE I left Ponferrada. Fortunately, the post office at O'Barco de Valedorras was open on Saturday. Made it just in time.

Now, once I get my feet sorted, I should be okay. Luckily, a pharmacy had the heel bandages I needed, and I picked up some inexpensive cotton socks in the local supermercado to help treat me feet. Got to take it one day at a time...

Thanks for everything. Hope this helps.
Great to hear from you Tom.
No complaining from you. I hope your feet behave. It must help getting rid of that extra weight posted on .
I also have wise pilgrim and Spanish data sim.
I’m using several things. Because wise pilgrim maps needs data ., for the tracking ., I refer to maps me. which runs without wifi or data. I get out of it after I check so that my battery keeps good charge. Sometimes I take a screen shot for reference.
I found that I’ve ‘added’quite a number of extras from the farmacia to my first aid kit.
I hope you continue to find the sun.
Annie
 

OzAnnie

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'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
Day 9
Aahhh. The easiest day yet.
Sky was clear but cold to start. I followed the Carretera all the way to Lalin.
Hard surface but safe (separate beside the main road ). It was a lot shorter than the camino path and I kept clean. If earth was firmer I would have taken the path though.
I was having a cania con limon at 12.30 in Lalín .

I’m in a nice Hostal in Lalín tonight. I had decided to book the last 3 nights before SdC as two places I called in Lalín were full. (El Palacio and Hostal las Palmeras., That left the albergue in Lalín which has a good write up and I booked ‘a room?!’ On booking dot com. Charged direct to my MasterCard E13. And thought that was it as they sent confirmation and payment came from my bank account.
However I got a message from booking dot com. Later. Problem somehow and albergue Lalin couldn’t accommodate me. Gave me alternative place (Hostal Mouriño) ..it’s opposite el Palacio . I called them and booked. Price was supposed to be E15 for peregrina., but the albergue guy called me and told me it was all fixed. They (albergue) paid the Hostal. So I’m happy here. Payment was squared by guy at albergue. I called in there and thanked him today.
Mouriño has A very nice menu Del dia E9. (Yes, the ‘cocida’ Laurie mentions in the guide was on the menu. Yum. Included bottle of wine ! Pan, cafe, and 3 courses. Room is large with larger soaking bath tub - very nice place. The Hostal has a lovely ambiance. Old stone walls, very elegant dining room separate. Hallway has character.
Annie

I meant to add: the tapas here is great.
At Mouriño- First served a plate of músculos., which looked great but I don’t eat them., he replaced it with a hot piece of tortilla. Cafe ordered later.,, came with 4 separate sweets and a biscuit.
On arrival earlier in day at the bar where I had the cania - I was served crisps , bread with jamón, and olives. Prices at both places were remarkably low.
 
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VNwalking

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Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés (2014, 2015)
St Olav/Francés (2016)
Baztanés/Francés (2017)
Ingles (July 2018)
Aahhh. The easiest day yet.
Wonderful! Well-deserved ease.
The only ‘major’ problem I am having is that my heels are giving me serious callus problems.
Buen Camino, Tom.
May your heels heal!

It's so great to see more people on the Invierno!
 

ranthr

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
C Frances 2005, 2007
Le Puy en Velay -SdC 2009
Via de la Plata 2011
gr 653 from Oloron to Puente la Reina 2012
Gr65 from le Puy to Figeac 2013
Irun to Santander 2013
Porto to SdC 2014
Astorga to SdC 2015
I started from Ponferrada yesterday. All the information in this thread, plus the guide Laurie updated, has been very helpful. In addition I LOVE the real time map in the Wise Pilgrim Guide for the Camino Invierno.

If you have a smartphone with location services turned on, and a data plan, it functions much like an ‘eye in the sky.’ Just keep the blue dot (you) on the red line (camino) and no one gets lost...;)

True, there are some minor route differences, but I find myself reviewing the written guide the night before, but using the Wise Guide in real time.

The only downside is that the constant location ‘pinging’ burns through battery life. Fortunately I planned ahead and bought a 6000 mwh battery case for my iPhone 6s from Amazon.

It takes THAT much battery capacity to run GPS-like apps all day long, even on the background. I need to talk to Mike Matynka about that when I get to Santiago.

The single best use is to settle your mind when you have not seen a marker in a while. Though I must say that, as far as O’Barco de Valedorras (night two), I have not made one bad turn yet.

It did take a while yesterday to get my ‘yellow arrow’ sixth sense booted and running fully. NOW I do not miss a marker. The local associations and government have done a credible job at installing mojones. I am satisfied so far with the route marking...stay tuned...

There are fewer markings and mojones than on the Frances, and you must PAY ATTENTION. But, everytime I thought I might have missed something, I just stopped, looked, and paid attention to my surroundings. Not a problem. Either a mojone or a yellow arrow presented itself straight away. Oh ye of little faith!

The weather has been cooperating, and the forecast is for mostly dry days this coming week...fingers crossed..

There has been some mud, but nothing that stuck to the bottom of my shoes at day’s end. Although, one particularly nasty mud swale ‘ate’ one of my rubber hiking pole tips on my first day. I carry one spare, so I am still “balanced.” No more fooling around. When I see mud, I am pulling those suckers off and pocketing them.

There have been quite a few dogs, including several unleashed fellows. But, there were no run ins...yet. I just follow my own advice and go into ‘dog whisperer’ mode.

I did have one large dog that came up to me at a cafe and made ‘puppy eyes.’ Okay, so I shared my snack with him. What can I say, I am a sucker for ‘puppy dog eyes.’ Bet this shaggy Shepard mix does that to all the pilgrims...

The only ‘major’ problem I am having is that my heels are giving me serious callus problems. I had a good pedicure last week. My orthotics are fresh and boots well broken in. The this is a recurring problem for me. But on this camino, it is hitting me right out of the box. I need to think on it more.

Of course, I made the same ‘newbie’ mistake I made on every one of my previous caminos. No one is immune from stupid!

Today, I mailed ANOTHER 2.2 kg or over 5 pounds of stuff I did not need. I also did this BEFORE I left Ponferrada. Fortunately, the post office at O'Barco de Valedorras was open on Saturday. Made it just in time.

Now, once I get my feet sorted, I should be okay. Luckily, a pharmacy had the heel bandages I needed, and I picked up some inexpensive cotton socks in the local supermercado to help treat me feet. Got to take it one day at a time...

Thanks for everything. Hope this helps.
Are you the Thomas de Estados Unidos who was pictured on The facebooksite of Cornatel Medulas? Buen camino, looking forward to follow your writing here!
 

ranthr

Active Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
C Frances 2005, 2007
Le Puy en Velay -SdC 2009
Via de la Plata 2011
gr 653 from Oloron to Puente la Reina 2012
Gr65 from le Puy to Figeac 2013
Irun to Santander 2013
Porto to SdC 2014
Astorga to SdC 2015
Yep - that’s what I mean.
I was standing at the ledge after I took the room and had a map of A Rua on the ledge. At that time I thought they might be but wasn’t sure.
When I returned to room tonight (late 9.30pm) I stood there barefoot and saw a little black thing on my foot. I grabbed it and squashed it. Looked like one to me. So have gone crazy hanging my gear away. Here’s hoping. I doubt I’ll sleep tho. I’ll be turning lights on to see if there’s any movement.

Yuk yuk yuk.
Annie, do you recommend Pacio do Sil? I have booked there, but wonder whether I rather should try to call one of the hostels in town. I am thinking of walking to Montefurado like you and go back by train. Hostal Niza is near the estación.
 

OzAnnie

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Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
Annie, do you recommend Pacio do Sil? I have booked there, but wonder whether I rather should try to call one of the hostels in town. I am thinking of walking to Montefurado like you and go back by train. Hostal Niza is near the estación.
I’ll pm you
 
Camino(s) past & future
Francais, Portugish, Norte, Primitivo, Aragonés , Inglés, Via de la Plata, Invierno
Wishes from a pre Invierno pilgrim. Enjoy your remaining days on the Camino and call out: ”- Santiago, here I come!” when you cross Ponte Ulla.
 

OzAnnie

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'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
Wishes from a pre Invierno pilgrim. Enjoy your remaining days on the Camino and call out: ”- Santiago, here I come!” when you cross Ponte Ulla.
Sounds like an apt thing to do !!
A new one for me.
Annie
 

t2andreo

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Frances: 2013, 2014
Madrid: 2016
Portuguese: 2015, 2017
Voluntario: 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
Are you the Thomas de Estados Unidos who was pictured on The facebooksite of Cornatel Medulas? Buen camino, looking forward to follow your writing here!
Yes, I think I was. Marisol asked to take my photo when I checked in. So, a gave her a pose. OTOH, That is why I closed my Facebook account a couple of years ago. I was just being a good sport no matter how goofy I looked.

Anyway, they only had two pilgrims the night I was there. It is a very nice place. Marisol and her husband Saturno do a bang up job of running the CR, the Cafe Marisol, across the way and whatever else pays the bills. They are wonderful people.
 

OzAnnie

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I agree with Tom, IMO Marisol offer a good service and were pretty well priced.
I only met Saturno tho.
 

OzAnnie

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'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
Today day 10 for me
In hindsight ., the last4 days of my plan are turning out more cruisy than I thought. I’ve been able to take it easy and still arrive between 12.30 and 2...
It’s ideal ., as the feet still take a pounding on a short day. It gives me time to chill out on arrival in a bar, then either find accommodation or a menú Del día. Today I’d booked the Albergue turistico in Silleda/ through booking dot com.
A private room with dbl bed ., electric heating which going on arrival so room cosy and warm, covered balcony - great for warmer nights- Shared bathroom opposite my door. Price E18. Hospitaleros Carlos and Natalia are lovely.
I didn’t use their services but they have kitchen, and for a small fee (washing machine , dryer, massage).
There is a bar beneath which offers menú del día but hospitalero recommended the pulpo on Sundays; at nearby restaurant : Bodegón Os Toneles. Food was great and it was popular today. I am in the bar beneath now and find the wine pretty yuk. I returned the first glass of red. 2nd one they charged more but it’s not much better. I’ll have to return to cervesa.
The walk today.
Without a doubt ., the exit from Lalín is the prettiest section you’ll ever experience leaving anywhere .
A beautiful walk along the river. I was initially concerned because it was beside the river but surface is well prepared. No messy bits and you can weave from side to side if you choose as there are cute bridges placed along the route. They all come back to same side (left) before you exit the river walk.

The official way (marked ) is just after a sign on the river walk with 4K. But it was very muddy exit there. I have tracks for a little further too., (not much further up). Locals walking told me the 2nd section joined up anyway; above in the road. It too, also has official camino marking when you reach it.

Then it was follow the road and there were signs here and there., but it was safe, as you are on footpath even though the camino info takes the camino around behind the industrial section.
After going round, down and under to eventually arrive at albergue A Laxe (where the Invierno and the Sanabres join).. it was closed then 10am and I walked past it., but had to come back as I was heading in wrong direction. You have to take sharp right at the A Laxe Albergue.

Later ., I popped across the highway (or main quiet road)where it indicated that I could get a sello at the old church. A guy was there to help ! I came back to left side of road where you head left up steps on the camino.
A lot of rain., messy walking from parts around there and especially when within a few kms of Silleda. Possibly lookout Tom @t2andreo and find yourself a drier route on ‘maps’ if it continues to rain over next week.

Stopped at bar Pedra for a couple of drinks before finding the albergue.

Nothing difficult like first week but good stepping stone practise. A few Roman rocks about.

The pics just added are probably out of order but should show the 4K marker followed by the first ‘official marker ‘ route. Then the muddy exit from that. The other shots are the 2nd crossing and exit on road base over the creek. There is a shed in that exit shot.

Annie
 

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MickMac

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Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2013
Frances 2016
Frances 2017
Frances July 2018 - Meseta
Today day 10 for me
I hindsight ., the last4 days of my plan are turning out more cruisy than I thought. I’ve been able to take it easy and still arrive between 12.30 and 2
It’s ideal ., as the feet still take a pounding on a short day. It gives me time to chill out on arrival in a bar. Then either find accommodation or a menú Del día. Today I’d booked the Albergue turistico in Silleda/ through booking dot com.
A private room with dbl bed ., electric heating going on arrival ., covered balcony - great for warmer nights- Shared bathroom opposite my door. Price E18. Hospitaleros Carlos and Natalia are lovely.
I didn’t use their services but they have kitchen, and for a small fee (washing machine , dryer, massage)
There is a bar beneath which offers menú del día but hospitalero recommended the pulpo on Sunday’s at nearby restaurant : Bodegón Os Toneles. Food was great and it was popular today. I am in the bar beneath now and find the wine pretty yuk. I returned the first glass of red. 2nd one they charged more but it’s not much better. I’ll have to return to cervesa.
The walk today.
Without a doubt ., the exit from Lalín is the prettiest section you’ll ever experience leaving anywhere .
A beautiful walk along the river. I was initially concerned because it was beside the river but surface is well prepared. No messy bits and you can weave from side to side if you choose. They all come back to same side (left) before you exit the river walk.

The official way (marked ) is just after a sign on the river walk with 4K. But it was very muddy exit there. I have tracks for a little further (not much further up). Locals walking told me the 2nd section joined up anyway above in the road. It also has official camino marking when you reach it.

Then it was follow the road and there were signs here and there., and it was safe in footpath even though the info takes the camino around behind the industrial section.
After going round, down and under to eventually arrive at albergue A Laxe (where the Invierno and the Sanabres join).. it was closed then 10am and I walked past it., but had to come back as I was heading in wrong direction. You have to take sharp right at the A Laxe Albergue.

Later ., I popped across the highway where it indicated that I could get a sello And then came back to left side of road where you head left up steps on the camino.
A lot of rain., messy walking from parts around there and especially when within a few kms of Silleda. Possibly lookout Tom @t2andreo and find yourself a drier route on ‘maps’ if it continues to rain over next week.

Stopped at bar Pedra for a couple of drinks before finding the albergue.

Nothing difficult like first week but good stepping stone practise. A few Roman rocks about.

The pics just added are probably out of order but should show the 4K marker followed by the first ‘official marker ‘ route. Then the muddy exit from that. The other shots are the 2nd crossing and exit on road base over the creek. Shed in that shot

Annie
Have you good spanish annie ? Will you get your cert in santiago for this Camino.? Just a few questions, might try next year if I can shake off my brother (I love him really) have you a guide.
 

OzAnnie

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Have you good spanish annie ? Will you get your cert in santiago for this Camino.? Just a few questions, might try next year if I can shake off my brother (I love him really) have you a guide.
I feel my Spanish has come a long way over past 6 years. A youngster would be fluent in that time I know !! I can converse but I understand more of theirs than I can quickly deliver in response . I just have to slow them down.
I think I will get the certificate in Santiago - I think this one was an achievement-
Re guide.
I’ll contact you when I get home but basically :
- guide on forum by Laurie (peregrina2000)
- maps me. I have loaded all the Spanish tracks ( I think I managed to get them off the Dutch site )
- accommodation loaded onto maps me
- the app purchased for: wise pilgrim
- notes gleaned from forum threads. (KinkyOne, etc)

It’s not an easy way !

@MickMac when you you finish your camino Francés?

Ps. A friend in Dublin last year gave me a little charm which I think helps me too.

Annie
 
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OzAnnie

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Monday 16/4/18. Off to Ponte Ulla today. Gronze says19.9. Walk felt closer to 22 or 3. A few ups and a good down at the end. Nothing major today, but it was a pretty walk.
The bar below albergue turistica in Silleda has desayuno available at 7am.
I also stopped at bandeira at a panadería.
Coffee, shot of orange juice , cake given extra and bought a pastry. All cost E2. Also got a sello. Saw first other pilgrims since 4/4/18. 2 Spanish hombres !!
Walking thru countryside I see birds. Sun is out. A rooster crows at 11am. The sheep ‘baaaa’s back!
Two deer are startled and shoot off but too fast ! So no deer pics today.
I arrived at Ponte Ulla just after 2.15. Bar Rios / at end of bridge on right. - Menu del dia available. She has rooms too. There is a pilgrim finishing his lunch who is taking a room. The other two I saw earlier are in the ‘real’ dining room. They are heading for Outeiro for tonight. (Not many options available there and it’s 4.8ks further on).
I stopped immediately after bridge.
Bar Rios menú del día
Fish is Meluza. I took a pic before she cooked it
The sopa!!!! Yum/hot Caldo! A pic also. A whole dish served. Potatoes, verdura, and beans and flavour of bacon??

Postres. I chose my first offered tarta Santiago !! Yum it was a little different with a caramel drizzle on top.
Madam owner is Elda. She has rooms individual- for E11. She said it was any season price. I felt sad to tell her I’d booked for Pensión Juanito as she thought I’d decided to stay here. No problems though. She was smiling.
Wine was not limited. I received a small carafe which was a lot more than 2 glasses. But I knew I’d had sufficient.. coffee also.

Pensión Juanito / a minute past the bridge of left. Lovely old building. Looks restored as windows frames and shutters all modern /new..
Room with bath E15. Heating all good. Rooms are really nice with old thick stone walls. Wifi is for rooms only. Doesn’t work downstairs.
I’ll take a little walk now outside as the sun is shining and looks like the weather will be perfect for coming week.
Just a mention of what has been on the tv when I stop anywhere. Zaragoza has had a real pounding with floods and subsequent road damage.
Buen Camino
 

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Charrito

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Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
Monday 16/4/18. Off to Ponte Ulla today. Gronze says19.9. Walk felt closer to 22 or 3. A few ups and a good down at the end. Nothing major today, but it was a pretty walk.
The bar below albergue turistica in Silleda has desayuno available at 7am.
I also stopped at bandeira at a panadería.
Coffee, shot of orange juice , cake given extra and bought a pastry. All cost E2. Also got a sello. Saw first other pilgrims since 4/4/18. 2 Spanish hombres !!
Walking thru countryside I see birds. Sun is out. A rooster crows at 11am. The sheep ‘baaaa’s back!
Two deer are startled and shoot off but too fast ! So no deer pics today.
I arrived at Ponte Ulla just after 2.15. Bar Rios / at end of bridge on right. - Menu del dia available. She has rooms too. There is a pilgrim finishing his lunch who is taking a room. The other two I saw earlier are in the ‘real’ dining room. They are heading for Outeiro for tonight. (Not many options available there and it’s 4.8ks further on).
I stopped immediately after bridge.
Bar Rios menú del día
Fish is Meluza. I took a pic before she cooked it
The sopa!!!! Yum/hot Caldo! A pic also. A whole dish served. Potatoes, verdura, and beans and flavour of bacon??

Postres. I chose my first offered tarta Santiago !! Yum it was a little different with a caramel drizzle on top.
Madam owner is Elda. She has rooms individual- for E11. She said it was any season price. I felt sad to tell her I’d booked for Pensión Juanito as she thought I’d decided to stay here. No problems though. She was smiling.
Wine was not limited. I received a small carafe which was a lot more than 2 glasses. But I knew I’d had sufficient.. coffee also.

Pensión Juanito / a minute past the bridge of left. Lovely old building. Looks restored as windows frames and shutters all modern /new..
Room with bath E15. Heating all good. Rooms are really nice with old thick stone walls. Wifi is for rooms only. Doesn’t work downstairs.
I’ll take a little walk now outside as the sun is shining and looks like the weather will be perfect for coming week.
Just a mention of what has been on the tv when I stop anywhere. Zaragoza has had a real pounding with floods and subsequent road damage.
Buen Camino
Nice photos, Annie.

She's a lovely lady in Bar Rios, and the food is very good. That's a real Caldo Gallego you have there!

Laurie will be interested for next year's edition of the guide that there's a brand new place to stay just up the road towards Vedra: Pensión Residencial Victoria https://www.hostalresidenciavictoria.es/

You should have called into the albergue in Dornelas, the one run by a charming Italian couple. Great place to stop for a coffee, between Bandeira and Ponte Ulla.

Santiago today! Well done, and I hope you enjoyed the Camino Invierno (and a bit of the Sanabrés).
 

OzAnnie

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Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
Nice photos, Annie.

She's a lovely lady in Bar Rios, and the food is very good. That's a real Caldo Gallego you have there!

Laurie will be interested for next year's edition of the guide that there's a brand new place to stay just up the road towards Vedra: Pensión Residencial Victoria https://www.hostalresidenciavictoria.es/

You should have called into the albergue in Dornelas, the one run by a charming Italian couple. Great place to stop for a coffee, between Bandeira and Ponte Ulla.

Santiago today! Well done, and I hope you enjoyed the Camino Invierno (and a bit of the Sanabrés).
Last day but can’t crank more out of this body.
I foolishly overlooked the obvious ., that the steep walk down into Ponte Ulla yesterday; would have to be ‘paid back’ today. Did anyone mention the haul up on this final day ? Making slow progress as around ‘Pico Sacro’ I took a photo and although I had been following arrows and mojónes ; I checked the tracks on maps me and also the track on Wise pilgrim. They were quite away from me. I felt like I’d been going a long way. One other pilgrim passed me earlier but still haven’t seen any more !
I’m still around 10k from Santiago but it’s dragging.
When I’d had enough of being too far away from coffee ., around Deseiro de Abaixo where arrows kept me - I decided to head up to the N525 just before Santa Marta and having ‘2’ Cafe con leches at restaurant Bar Rosende. I’ll just wander in later than I’d expected.
Yes ., the Caldo Gallego was superb ..
Not at all like walking in from the other routes.

I saw ads to the Victoria accommodation - I didn’t take pic. Happy with Pensión Juanito . Beds were really comfy with lovely crisp white sheets.

Ps.. I’ve found that trying to load pics from my phone isn’t always successful. After a lot of messages saying file is too large/ I now just take a screen shot of anything first; edit the edges out and post that pic.

Annie
 

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OzAnnie

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Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
Well that endeth the camino to Santiago 2018 for me. Very tired. There was surprisingly? A lot of climb all the way to Santiago.
Different to other routes., you don’t get a long distance glimpse of the city ..until you see the cathedral a couple of ks out.

I have reservation for 3 nights in peregrino floor (4) in San Martin Pinario. (For those who have stayed on level 4 before ; you’ll be happy to know that the frosted glass panels in the room doors have all been replaced with wood. - this means no lights coming on during the night as other pilgrims walk past and light up the hallway automatically)..
I’ve collected my Compostela- Surprisingly even though it’s off season., there was a queue with 1/2 hr wait .
After tidying myself I trotted down to: A taberna Do Bispo and enjoyed a selection of tapas and 2 slow glasses of Albariño. Then cafe con leche and queso y membrillo.
Ready for an early night now.

Very happy
Annie
 
Last edited:

natefaith

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Congrats, Annie!! You made it!! Enjoy the city; we're supposed to have excellent weather for a few days. Maybe I'll see you soon!
 

ranthr

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C Frances 2005, 2007
Le Puy en Velay -SdC 2009
Via de la Plata 2011
gr 653 from Oloron to Puente la Reina 2012
Gr65 from le Puy to Figeac 2013
Irun to Santander 2013
Porto to SdC 2014
Astorga to SdC 2015
Well that endeth the camino to Santiago 2018 for me. Very tired. There was surprisingly? A lot of climb all the way to Santiago.
Different to other routes., you don’t get a long distance glimpse of the city ..until you see the cathedral a couple of ks out.

I have reservation for 3 nights in peregrino floor (4) in San Martin Pinario. (For those who have stayed on level 4 before ; you’ll be happy to know that the frosted glass panels in the room doors have all been replaced with wood. - this means no lights coming on during the night as other pilgrims walk past and light up the hallway automatically)..
I’ve collected my Compostela- Surprisingly even though it’s off season., there was a queue with 1/2 hr wait .
After tidying myself I trotted down to: A taberna Do Bispo and enjoyed a selection of tapas and 2 slow glasses of Albariño. Then cafe con leche and queso y membrillo.
Ready for an early night now.

Very happy
Annie
Have been great reading your posts. Have a nice rest in Santiago!
 

mspath

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Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
Annie,
It has been a true pleasure to follow your journey during the past weeks.Take a deep breath and now at last relax in Santiago; enjoy hearing those famous nearby bells.
Margaret
 

OzAnnie

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'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
Annie,
It has been a true pleasure to follow your journey during the past weeks.Take a deep breath and now at last relax in Santiago; enjoy hearing those famous nearby bells.
Margaret
Well Thankyou Margaret !!
I didn’t know you were reading the thread and honestly feels quite an honour that you have!
You helped me with my very first newbie question in 2013 !
I hope you’re feeling fitter yourself these days.
Annie
 

Albertagirl

Veteran Member
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Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2015); Ch. d'Arles: Oloron Ste Marie to Aragones; Frances (2016); V.d.l.P.; Sanabres (2017)
Making slow progress as around ‘Pico Sacro’ I took a photo and although I had been following arrows and mojónes ; I checked the tracks on maps me and also the track on Wise pilgrim. They were quite away from me. I felt like I’d been going a long way.
@OzAnnie
Congratulations on finishing a challenging walk. Re: following the arrows and not the tracks on your walk into Santiago, last November I walked in from the Sanabres and noticed as I approached Santiago that the arrows were going right and my track on maps.me was going left. I followed the track, which gradually disappeared, leaving me in a thorn patch. I could hear the highway from the left, but when I approached the sound, there was an abrupt cut down to the pavement and I had to walk along the hilltop looking for a way down and eventually sliding down in a tangle of dirt and thorns. Shortly thereafter, I found my way back onto the camino route. This is just to affirm that you were definitely on the better route, which seems to have been moved since the tracks were made. It's great to hear about the removal of the glass over the doors on the pilgrim floor in St Martin Pinario. I always stay there, but do not appreciate having to use eye mask and ear plugs to get any sleep. I hope to walk the Madrid and the Invierno next year, so have followed your progress with much interest.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2014); Madrid, Salvador and Norte or Primitivo (2018)
Well done, Annie, and thank you keeping us well informed about your journey. I have enjoyed every moment and look forward to following in your footsteps on the Madrid in three weeks. Enjoy your well earned rest and last few days in Spain.
 

norelle

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Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2011 April, 2014 March) San Salvador, Primitivo, Finisterre, Muxia (June 2015) Del Norte (Sept/Oct 2016)
Well done Annie! Congratulations!
Thanks for posting along the way from Madrid. I've really enjoyed following your camino.
I hope we catch up in person soon.
Buen camino xo
 

t2andreo

Veteran Member
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Camino(s) past & future
Frances: 2013, 2014
Madrid: 2016
Portuguese: 2015, 2017
Voluntario: 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
Well that endeth the camino to Santiago 2018 for me. Very tired. There was surprisingly? A lot of climb all the way to Santiago.
Different to other routes., you don’t get a long distance glimpse of the city ..until you see the cathedral a couple of ks out.

I have reservation for 3 nights in peregrino floor (4) in San Martin Pinario. (For those who have stayed on level 4 before ; you’ll be happy to know that the frosted glass panels in the room doors have all been replaced with wood. - this means no lights coming on during the night as other pilgrims walk past and light up the hallway automatically)..
I’ve collected my Compostela- Surprisingly even though it’s off season., there was a queue with 1/2 hr wait .
After tidying myself I trotted down to: A taberna Do Bispo and enjoyed a selection of tapas and 2 slow glasses of Albariño. Then cafe con leche and queso y membrillo.
Ready for an early night now.

Very happy
Annie
YIPPEE about the wooden panels replacing the frosted glass at SMP. It was always annoying when the Spanish Peregrino’s returned at 02:00 or later, when I had been sound asleep since 10:00. I look forward to enjoying this small but significant improvement when I arrive on Sunday.
 

t2andreo

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Frances: 2013, 2014
Madrid: 2016
Portuguese: 2015, 2017
Voluntario: 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
I am at Chantada tonight, with four more days planned: Rodiero, Lalin, Bandiera, and Santiago. Between them, Laurie, Margaret & Annie have thoroughly fleshed out the next version of the CSJ guide. Their aggregate detail is stunning! Have fun working together to edit into a cohesive and concise document.

Great job ladies!!!

For my part, I only intend to provide my impressions and experiences. I am not trying embellish or add to the outstanding job already done by my three fellow Forum veterans.

When I first presumed to do the Invierno, it was to prove or disprove my hypothesis that, at least on a map, it appeared to be a viable alternative to the seasonal crowds and commercialism on the Sarria to Santiago stretch of the Camino Frances. I intend to challenge and discuss that hypothesis.

Once I return home, say during the first week of May, I will write and post my after-action report. I need a proper keyboard. My iPhone is not easy.

Also, As I am not yet done with my Camino de Invierno, and as Murphy’s Law often visits upon me, I think it best to refrain from any spoiler alerts until, “the fat lady (or gent) has sung...”

So, y’all be patient and stay tuned...
 

OzAnnie

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Camino(s) past & future
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And folks, (confidentially) I know Tom also has considerable input for the Invierno guide to declare later. !!! He’s being shy !!

Also @Charrito You’re a tough one! Lining up again!

Take care of your feet Tom.
At least the weather is beautiful now, so you should be able to keep them dry.

Ps. I’ve located that laundry place!

Buen Camino
 

Charrito

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Francés
Portugués
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And folks, (confidentially) I know Tom also has considerable input for the Invierno guide to declare later. !!! He’s being shy !!

Also @Charrito You’re a tough one! Lining up again!

Take care of your feet Tom.
At least the weather is beautiful now, so you should be able to keep them dry.

Ps. I’ve located that laundry place!

Buen Camino
The advantage that I have, Annie, is that I live in Salamanca, so I can easily get up to anywhere and start walking. I'm seriously considering the Camino Olvidado, from Bilbao, some time this summer, but the Invierno is like a magnet for me (thanks to KinkyOne and Peregrina2000), and I'll definitely be up there again. Last year I only got to Monforte, so I could do the rest in less than a week.
 

ranthr

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C Frances 2005, 2007
Le Puy en Velay -SdC 2009
Via de la Plata 2011
gr 653 from Oloron to Puente la Reina 2012
Gr65 from le Puy to Figeac 2013
Irun to Santander 2013
Porto to SdC 2014
Astorga to SdC 2015
I am at Chantada tonight, with four more days planned: Rodiero, Lalin, Bandiera, and Santiago. Between them, Laurie, Margaret & Annie have thoroughly fleshed out the next version of the CSJ guide. Their aggregate detail is stunning! Have fun working together to edit into a cohesive and concise document.

Great job ladies!!!

For my part, I only intend to provide my impressions and experiences. I am not trying embellish or add to the outstanding job already done by my three fellow Forum veterans.

When I first presumed to do the Invierno, it was to prove or disprove my hypothesis that, at least on a map, it appeared to be a viable alternative to the seasonal crowds and commercialism on the Sarria to Santiago stretch of the Camino Frances. I intend to challenge and discuss that hypothesis.

Once I return home, say during the first week of May, I will write and post my after-action report. I need a proper keyboard. My iPhone is not easy.

Also, As I am not yet done with my Camino de Invierno, and as Murphy’s Law often visits upon me, I think it best to refrain from any spoiler alerts until, “the fat lady (or gent) has sung...”

So, y’all be patient and stay tuned...
Tom, @t2andreo , would you warn a 70- year old woman from trying this camino?
I might have started before your afteractionreport comes.
 

Charrito

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Portugués
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Tom, @t2andreo , would you warn a 70- year old woman from trying this camino?
I might have started before your afteractionreport comes.
Absolutely no problem, ranthr! I'm not too far behind you age-wise, but you'll find it to be a beautiful, solitary Camino. Lovely people everywhere, spectacular scenery, a few steep climbs and descents, and some nice small towns. Go for it!
 

t2andreo

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Okay, short version: (yeah, THAT will be the day!)

There are several segments that rival the first day out of Saint Jean Pied de Port. They are not long, but they are steep(ish).

There are also several segments that reminded me of the climb to O’Cebreiro. Again, not long, but challenging.

The signage is quite good and evidently getting better. In the Bierzo, the mojones are made of solid black slate, as this is the dominant quarried stone. Most buildings have slate roofs.

Once you cross into Galicia, the mojones change to the granite variety we are all used to, Again as granite is the dominant quarried stone in Galicia.

Both types of mojones carry the same information. However, the spot for the mileage markers are all blank at current. My guess is that is phase 2.

Note: so far, and I am at Rodiero, all the scallop icons on ALL the mojones I have yet seen have the ‘rays’ or fingers of the scallop shell pointing in the direction of Santiago. Personally, I think they have it backwards.

IMHO, the various paths of all the Camino routes from all over Europe ALL converge on the one destination, or the hinge side of the scallop shell logo. That destination, of course, are the remains of Santiago at the Cathedral. If I were in charge I would make that standard. Alas, I am not in such a position. But the point is, on the Invierno all the scallop shell “open” ends point towards Santiago.

Also yellow arrows are very evident. I am now at Rodiero, three days before Santiago. Have not made a wrong turn yet.

There always seems to be a mojone, yellow arrow, or even a yellow ‘X’ when you most need it. If you don’t see one, continue for another hundred meters or so and pay attention.

The biggest issue I found, personally, is the constant up and down. This route has lots of hills and valleys.

But, I am a big guy with dodgy knees and hips. So, both climbing hills and descending present issues for me that may not affect you.

I even had a medical emergency with bloody (literally) calluses on both feet, requiring a taxi ride ahead to Monforte de Lemos to have my feet fixed by a wonderful podiatrist. Knock wood...so far my feet are back in the game. However, all the other bits are still whining and complaining.

Two practical issues to note:

1. Obtaining sellos on the Invierno is like a scavenger hunt. Unlike the Frances, many daily segments literally have no cafes, bars, or other places between your daily start and end points. This gets more interesting once you leave Monforte de Lemos, the official final starting point to obtain a Compostela. Yesterday, I stopped at a winery that happened to be open after Belesar and before Chantada. They provided a sello, and a free wine tasting...it made for an interesting last 8-10 km walking...

2. In one week of walking I have seen two other pilgrims on foot, and today one on bicycle. The point here is that, if you were to have an acute medical issue while walking, it might be some time before anyone happened along.

As a result, I made a personal decision to stick to the road walking alternative between two points if one is available.

The route itself is inherently safe. Local traffic is very light and many road segments have either wide shoulders / verges, or a dedicated parallel walking path that might be macadam or grit & sand. But cars or trucks do come along every few minutes.

The people I met have been friendly, gracious and generous. If anything, you are a celebrity, as they do not see many pilgrims.

I have been the high point of many elderly senora’s day. Once I introduce myself, they treat me like I was a star. Today, a very nice lady offered me a place to stay, in her home...I doubt you would get that response on the Frances. I made her blush when I told her my wife would be jealous...

The Invierno has a lot to offer. The scenery is among the most beautiful I have seen on any of my, now six Caminos.

I recommend it as being safe and doable, with the sole proviso that you understand the differences between the Invierno and other routes. The most direct comparisons are to the Frances, from O’Cebreiro to Santiago. The Invierno provides a viable alternative to that, as long as you understand that the Invierno is both wonderful, but very different than the Frances.

There, now I have done it. I helped you, hopefully, but tipped my hand on a large part of my final report.

But, as that won’t come for another two weeks, I hope this helps.
 
Last edited:

Charrito

Active Member
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Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Fisterra
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Norte
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Primitivo
Okay, short version: (yeah, THAT will be the day!)

There are several segments that rival the first day out of Saint Jean Pied de Port. They are not long, but they are steep(ish).

There are also several segments that reminded me of the climb to O’Cebreiro. Again, not long, but challenging.

The signage is quite good and evidently getting better. In the Bierzo, the mojones are made of solid black slate, as this is the dominant quarried stone. Most buildings have slate roofs.

Once you cross into Galicia, the mojones change to the granite variety we are all used to, Again as granite is the dominant quarried stone inGalicia.

Both types of mojones carry the same information. However, the spot for the mileage markers are all blank at current. My guess is that is phase 2.

Yellow arrows are evident. I am now at Rodiero, three days before Santiago. Have not made a wrong turn yet.

There always seems to be a mojone, yellow arrow, or even a yellow ‘X’ when you most need it. If you don’t see one, continue for another hundred meters or so and pay attention.

The biggest issue I found, personally, is the constant up and down. This route has lots of hills and valleys.

But i am a big guy with dodgy knees and hips. So, both climbing hills and descending present issues for me that may not affect you.

Two practical issues to note:

1. Obtaining sellos is is a scavenger hunt. Unlike the Frances, many daily segments literally have no cafes, bars, or other places between your daily start and end points. This gets more interesting once you leave Monforte de Lemos, the official final starting point to obtain a Compostela. Yesterday, I stopped at a winery that happened to be open. They provided a sello, and a free wine tasting...

2. In one week of walking I have seen 2 other pilgrims on foot, and today one on bicycle. The point here is that, if you were to have an acute medical issue while walking, it might be some time before anyone happened along.

As a result, I made a personal decision to stick to the road walking alternative between two points if one is available.

The route itself is inherently safe. Local traffic is very light and many road segments have either wide shoulders / verges, or a dedicated parallel walking path that might be macadam or grit & sand.

The people I met have been friendly, gracious and generous. If anything, you are a celebrity, as they do not see many pilgrims.

I have been the high point of many elderly senora’s day. Once I introduce myself, they treat me like I was a star. Today, a very nice lady offered me a place to stay, in her home...I doubt you would get that response on the Frances. I made her blush when I told her my wife would be jealous...

The Invierno has a lot to offer. The scenery is among the most beautiful I have seen on any of my, now six Caminos.

I recommend it as being safe and doable, with the sole proviso that you understand the differences between the Invierno and other routes. The most direct comparisons are to the Frances, from O’Cebreiro to Santiago. The Invierno provides a viable alternative to that, as long as you understand that the Invierno is both wonderful, but very different than the Frances.

There, now I have done it. I helped you, hopefully, but ripped my hand on a large piece of my final report.

But as that won’t come for another two weeks, I hope this helps.
Wonderful report, t2andreo.

Those of us who have fallen in love with the Invierno know exactly what you are referring to. The difference between the Invierno and the Francés is like chalk and cheese!

I love the anecdote about the 'very nice lady' who offered you a place to stay in her home! I haven't experienced that . . . . . . . YET! And my wife would also be extremely jealous! If I told her, of course!

Buen Camino!
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
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Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese' ' Frances' ' Norte' 'Salvador_prim' ‘le puy’ ‘Inglés’ ‘CDM’ ‘Invierno’ ‘Fin_Mux’
Congrats, Annie!! You made it!! Enjoy the city; we're supposed to have excellent weather for a few days. Maybe I'll see you soon!
Hi @natefaith
My timing is out - I called in to Pilgrim house today. I had a lovely chat with Michael. Also spent time having a ‘cuppa’ and chat with 4 Young German pilgrims who finished today and btw were really fluent English speakers.
Sorry I missed you. I did get to use the excellent laundry service. All ready to fly out tomorrow

timing was also bad as after I spent a bit of time at Correos later in the day I had intended to pop in and say hi to @SYates Sorry Sybil. I checked and realised your meetup hours say finish at 5pm so didn’t walk out to you.

Annie
 

natefaith

Moderator
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Camino(s) past & future
Sarria-Santiago (2009)
León-Ponferrada (2014)
Camino Inglés (2017)
Hi @natefaith
My timing is out - I called in to Pilgrim house today. I had a lovely chat with Michael. Also spent time having a ‘cuppa’ and chat with 4 Young German pilgrims who finished today and btw were really fluent English speakers.
Sorry I missed you. I did get to use the excellent laundry service. All ready to fly out tomorrow

timing was also bad as after I spent a bit of time at Correos later in the day I had intended to pop in and say hi to @SYates Sorry Sybil. I checked and realised your meetup hours say finish at 5pm so didn’t walk out to you.

Annie
Sorry I missed you as well, Annie, but I'm glad you did stop by and get to hang out a bit. I'm sure you and I will connect again sometime! Take care and have a smooth transition home.
Faith
 

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