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LIVE from the Camino Started SJPP to Roncesvalles so far!

Becky 59

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino Frances (May 2018)
Camino Ingles (Aug 2019)
I thought I was going to have to cancel my Camino when Air France cancelled my Sept 11 flight, but it was rescheduled and rerouted at the last minute and I flew into France (Vaccination card photo on my phone and a fresh Covid test in hand), got another Covid test the following day (Sunday, walked in to a pharmacie, results to my phone in 30 minutes, since my US Covid test was too old) so I could take the train south to Bayonne the following day. I did try to get the Passe Sanitaire through the French website, no luck; I also tried to get my Vaccine card digitized at a Covid Vaccination center but they referred me to a website which didn't work...so every 3 day Covid tests at 30 euros a pop while I was in France. Spain is laxer.

But the fresh Covid test gave me entrance to restaurants and bars and a Basque costume display at the Bayonne cathedral....

The albergue I stayed at in SJPP (Beilari) supplied disposable bottom sheet and pillow case and a blanket; I was in a 3 person room with 2 other women who agreed to keep the window wide open! There was a communal dinner that night, unmasked, and a candlelight breakfast in the morning (sunrise not until 7:45 currently!) Restaurants and bars in town wouldn't serve you unless you had a vaccine card or a Covid result.

Hiked up to Orisson, which was full (I had a reservation). They also had disposable sheets and a blanket, although many pilgrims used their own blankets. We had to be masked to check in, and had to show a vaccine card, but no masks during the communal dinner.

Bag transfer yesterday and today was 8 euros each day, much more expensive than I remember in the past, I hope the rates go down once we're out of the mountains!

Tonight I'm at Roncesvalles. The 4-person cubicles are now allowed to house 3 people, and despite that increase the place is full tonight, other pilgrims were turned away by phone yesterday and had to book in Burguete 3 km down the road.

Pilgrims are currently a mix: fair number of Americans, Brits, Irish, Netherlands, Denmark, Germany, lots of French, one or two Italians only, and just starting to see lots more Spaniards. No one is masking on trails outside towns, lots of masks in towns, and lots of masks being worn on elbows when not on faces.

It rained alot today, I walked right past the statue of the Virgin and never saw her! Lots of rain coming this week too, I hear, but it doesn't seem to be dampening anyone's spirits.

Ultreia!
 
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how to successfully prepare for your Camino
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biarritzdon

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
CF11, CF12, CP13, CF14, CA15, S.Anton15, CF&CI15
Ditch Pig16, CF&CP17, CdN18, CM18, CF18, LePuy19
Bon Chemin, thanks for the report. I am surprised with Covid travel restriction there are so many pilgrims.
 

mspath

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
I thought I was going to have to cancel my Camino when Air France cancelled my Sept 11 flight, but it was rescheduled and rerouted at the last minute and I flew into France (Vaccination card photo on my phone and a fresh Covid test in hand), got another Covid test the following day (Sunday, walked in to a pharmacie, results to my phone in 30 minutes, since my US Covid test was too old) so I could take the train south to Bayonne the following day. I did try to get the Passe Sanitaire through the French website, no luck; I also tried to get my Vaccine card digitized at a Covid Vaccination center but they referred me to a website which didn't work...so every 3 day Covid tests at 30 euros a pop while I was in France. Spain is laxer.

But the fresh Covid test gave me entrance to restaurants and bars and a Basque costume display at the Bayonne cathedral....

The albergue I stayed at in SJPP (Beilari) supplied disposable bottom sheet and pillow case and a blanket; I was in a 3 person room with 2 other women who agreed to keep the window wide open! There was a communal dinner that night, unmasked, and a candlelight breakfast in the morning (sunrise not until 7:45 currently!) Restaurants and bars in town wouldn't serve you unless you had a vaccine card or a Covid result.

Hiked up to Orisson, which was full (I had a reservation). They also had disposable sheets and a blanket, although many pilgrims used their own blankets. We had to be masked to check in, and had to show a vaccine card, but no masks during the communal dinner.

Bag transfer yesterday and today was 8 euros each day, much more expensive than I remember in the past, I hope the rates go down once we're out of the mountains!

Tonight I'm at Roncesvalles. The 4-person cubicles are now allowed to house 3 people, and despite that increase the place is full tonight, other pilgrims were turned away by phone yesterday and had to book in Burguete 3 km down the road.

Pilgrims are currently a mix: fair number of Americans, Brits, Irish, Netherlands, Denmark, Germany, lots of French, one or two Italians only, and just starting to see lots more Spaniards. No one is masking on trails outside towns, lots of masks in towns, and lots of masks being worn on elbows when not on faces.

It rained alot today, I walked right past the statue of the Virgin and never saw her! Lots of rain coming this week too, I hear, but it doesn't seem to be dampening anyone's spirits.

Ultreia!
Becky 59,
Thanks for your update!
Leaving Roncesvalles tomorrow in nearby Burguete on N135 on your left is a church, next to it a small plaza and at the back of the plaza the Bar Fronton at Calle Zubiarte, 13. It is open early every morning and very pilgrim friendly; within their complex is the local fronton court.

I always stopped there on my way down from Roncesvalles usually before dawn in late winter starlight. If by chance it is still dark as you leave Roncesvalles be sure to wear or carry your head torch.

Carpe diem!
 
Last edited:

Ginobiliii

New Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino Frances
I thought I was going to have to cancel my Camino when Air France cancelled my Sept 11 flight, but it was rescheduled and rerouted at the last minute and I flew into France (Vaccination card photo on my phone and a fresh Covid test in hand), got another Covid test the following day (Sunday, walked in to a pharmacie, results to my phone in 30 minutes, since my US Covid test was too old) so I could take the train south to Bayonne the following day. I did try to get the Passe Sanitaire through the French website, no luck; I also tried to get my Vaccine card digitized at a Covid Vaccination center but they referred me to a website which didn't work...so every 3 day Covid tests at 30 euros a pop while I was in France. Spain is laxer.

But the fresh Covid test gave me entrance to restaurants and bars and a Basque costume display at the Bayonne cathedral....

The albergue I stayed at in SJPP (Beilari) supplied disposable bottom sheet and pillow case and a blanket; I was in a 3 person room with 2 other women who agreed to keep the window wide open! There was a communal dinner that night, unmasked, and a candlelight breakfast in the morning (sunrise not until 7:45 currently!) Restaurants and bars in town wouldn't serve you unless you had a vaccine card or a Covid result.

Hiked up to Orisson, which was full (I had a reservation). They also had disposable sheets and a blanket, although many pilgrims used their own blankets. We had to be masked to check in, and had to show a vaccine card, but no masks during the communal dinner.

Bag transfer yesterday and today was 8 euros each day, much more expensive than I remember in the past, I hope the rates go down once we're out of the mountains!

Tonight I'm at Roncesvalles. The 4-person cubicles are now allowed to house 3 people, and despite that increase the place is full tonight, other pilgrims were turned away by phone yesterday and had to book in Burguete 3 km down the road.

Pilgrims are currently a mix: fair number of Americans, Brits, Irish, Netherlands, Denmark, Germany, lots of French, one or two Italians only, and just starting to see lots more Spaniards. No one is masking on trails outside towns, lots of masks in towns, and lots of masks being worn on elbows when not on faces.

It rained alot today, I walked right past the statue of the Virgin and never saw her! Lots of rain coming this week too, I hear, but it doesn't seem to be dampening anyone's spirits.

Ultreia!
Having trouble with the French health pass as well. Was the vaccination card enough for the Air France flight?
 

Geodoc

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
CF 2018 (across Pyrenees, then Sarria to SdC), CF 2019 (SJPdP to Finisterra & Muxia), CI 2019
Having trouble with the French health pass as well. Was the vaccination card enough for the Air France flight?
Yes. I was with Becky59 when she checked in for her flight to France.
 
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Ginobiliii

New Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino Frances
Yes. I was with Becky59 when she checked in for her flight to France.
Thanks! I have read mixed experiences so far. It seems like getting to France with just CDC card is works just fine but the flight from CDG to Biarritz along with any trains people are running into problems without the QR code.
 
Past OR future Camino
2019
I thought I was going to have to cancel my Camino when Air France cancelled my Sept 11 flight, but it was rescheduled and rerouted at the last minute and I flew into France (Vaccination card photo on my phone and a fresh Covid test in hand), got another Covid test the following day (Sunday, walked in to a pharmacie, results to my phone in 30 minutes, since my US Covid test was too old) so I could take the train south to Bayonne the following day. I did try to get the Passe Sanitaire through the French website, no luck; I also tried to get my Vaccine card digitized at a Covid Vaccination center but they referred me to a website which didn't work...so every 3 day Covid tests at 30 euros a pop while I was in France. Spain is laxer.

But the fresh Covid test gave me entrance to restaurants and bars and a Basque costume display at the Bayonne cathedral....

The albergue I stayed at in SJPP (Beilari) supplied disposable bottom sheet and pillow case and a blanket; I was in a 3 person room with 2 other women who agreed to keep the window wide open! There was a communal dinner that night, unmasked, and a candlelight breakfast in the morning (sunrise not until 7:45 currently!) Restaurants and bars in town wouldn't serve you unless you had a vaccine card or a Covid result.

Hiked up to Orisson, which was full (I had a reservation). They also had disposable sheets and a blanket, although many pilgrims used their own blankets. We had to be masked to check in, and had to show a vaccine card, but no masks during the communal dinner.

Bag transfer yesterday and today was 8 euros each day, much more expensive than I remember in the past, I hope the rates go down once we're out of the mountains!

Tonight I'm at Roncesvalles. The 4-person cubicles are now allowed to house 3 people, and despite that increase the place is full tonight, other pilgrims were turned away by phone yesterday and had to book in Burguete 3 km down the road.

Pilgrims are currently a mix: fair number of Americans, Brits, Irish, Netherlands, Denmark, Germany, lots of French, one or two Italians only, and just starting to see lots more Spaniards. No one is masking on trails outside towns, lots of masks in towns, and lots of masks being worn on elbows when not on faces.

It rained alot today, I walked right past the statue of the Virgin and never saw her! Lots of rain coming this week too, I hear, but it doesn't seem to be dampening anyone's spirits.

Ultreia!
Good to get the intel on what's ahead. Sorry to hear about the coming rain. I'm couple of days behind you, currently waiting for takeoff from New York, Pamplona tomorrow, SJDPP Saturday. Have been worrying about the pass sanitaire, good to know I can be tested, albeit at a cost. Hope they gii
I thought I was going to have to cancel my Camino when Air France cancelled my Sept 11 flight, but it was rescheduled and rerouted at the last minute and I flew into France (Vaccination card photo on my phone and a fresh Covid test in hand), got another Covid test the following day (Sunday, walked in to a pharmacie, results to my phone in 30 minutes, since my US Covid test was too old) so I could take the train south to Bayonne the following day. I did try to get the Passe Sanitaire through the French website, no luck; I also tried to get my Vaccine card digitized at a Covid Vaccination center but they referred me to a website which didn't work...so every 3 day Covid tests at 30 euros a pop while I was in France. Spain is laxer.

But the fresh Covid test gave me entrance to restaurants and bars and a Basque costume display at the Bayonne cathedral....

The albergue I stayed at in SJPP (Beilari) supplied disposable bottom sheet and pillow case and a blanket; I was in a 3 person room with 2 other women who agreed to keep the window wide open! There was a communal dinner that night, unmasked, and a candlelight breakfast in the morning (sunrise not until 7:45 currently!) Restaurants and bars in town wouldn't serve you unless you had a vaccine card or a Covid result.

Hiked up to Orisson, which was full (I had a reservation). They also had disposable sheets and a blanket, although many pilgrims used their own blankets. We had to be masked to check in, and had to show a vaccine card, but no masks during the communal dinner.

Bag transfer yesterday and today was 8 euros each day, much more expensive than I remember in the past, I hope the rates go down once we're out of the mountains!

Tonight I'm at Roncesvalles. The 4-person cubicles are now allowed to house 3 people, and despite that increase the place is full tonight, other pilgrims were turned away by phone yesterday and had to book in Burguete 3 km down the road.

Pilgrims are currently a mix: fair number of Americans, Brits, Irish, Netherlands, Denmark, Germany, lots of French, one or two Italians only, and just starting to see lots more Spaniards. No one is masking on trails outside towns, lots of masks in towns, and lots of masks being worn on elbows when not on faces.

It rained alot today, I walked right past the statue of the Virgin and never saw her! Lots of rain coming this week too, I hear, but it doesn't seem to be dampening anyone's spirits.

Ultreia!
Hey, thanks for the intel. Sorry to hear about the coming rain. I'm a couple of days behind you, currently waiting for takeoff from New York, Pamplona tomorrow, SJDPP Saturday. I was worried about the pass sanitaire - applied but no word yet, and it is good to know that I can pay for a test - albeit a pricey one. I will only be in France for one night, and hope that a single test will be all I need (and that I'll be able to get one Saturday afternoon in SJDPP.
 

Becky 59

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino Frances (May 2018)
Camino Ingles (Aug 2019)
Having trouble with the French health pass as well. Was the vaccination card enough for the Air France flight?
No I also needed a Covid test of sufficient caliber, performed < 72 hours before departure.
 
Original artwork based on your pilgrimage or other travel photos.
how to successfully prepare for your Camino
This book's focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared.

Kev&Kath

Member
Past OR future Camino
2021
A bit confused by this post. Pretty sure current requirements for vaccinated US travelers is production of proof of vaccination. Just wondering why you’ve had to obtain Covid tests.

Wife & I are heading over in mid-Oct, so very appreciative & keen for your advice.

Buen Camino!
 

Geodoc

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
CF 2018 (across Pyrenees, then Sarria to SdC), CF 2019 (SJPdP to Finisterra & Muxia), CI 2019
Darling husband no, I needed a Covid test to go thru French customs and to get on the flight. How soon you forget!
Hm. I thought Ginobililillilliiiliii (sorry, forgot how many l's and i's) was asking about card and QR code, not test. But, yes, I did forget. Bloop.
 

Ginobiliii

New Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino Frances
A bit confused by this post. Pretty sure current requirements for vaccinated US travelers is production of proof of vaccination. Just wondering why you’ve had to obtain Covid tests.

Wife & I are heading over in mid-Oct, so very appreciative & keen for your advice.

Buen Camino!
This what I thought was correct as well but I’ve read all kinds of variations.

CDC card ok to get in France but QR code or test needed for everything else seems common. Applied for QR code like 3 weeks ago and it’s been radio silence.

I’m leaving Sep 19th DFW to CDG with a connected flight to Biarritz on Air France. Got an email from Air France saying vaccination card was enough but others say they had to scramble at CDG to get a test in between flights because they wouldn’t let them board with CDC card alone. On top of that I’ve read that they’ve been denying test results from places outside of EU because they can’t verify them (same reason CDC card isn’t enough).

It’s a cluster and just going to have to see what happens in CDG. Have a 3.5 hour layover so hopefully it’s enough time to work it out. And all for being in France for 24 hours.
 
Past OR future Camino
2019
This what I thought was correct as well but I’ve read all kinds of variations.

CDC card ok to get in France but QR code or test needed for everything else seems common. Applied for QR code like 3 weeks ago and it’s been radio silence.

I’m leaving Sep 19th DFW to CDG with a connected flight to Biarritz on Air France. Got an email from Air France saying vaccination card was enough but others say they had to scramble at CDG to get a test in between flights because they wouldn’t let them board with CDC card alone. On top of that I’ve read that they’ve been denying test results from places outside of EU because they can’t verify them (same reason CDC card isn’t enough).

It’s a cluster and just going to have to see what happens in CDG. Have a 3.5 hour layover so hopefully it’s enough time to work it out. And all for being in France for 24 hours.
Yes, radio silence. Haven't had any luck hearing from the French public health overseers either, despite three shots of Moderna and submitting an application for a pass sanitaire 10 days ago.

I arrived in SJPP a few hours ago after flying into Madrid from NYC, then hopping on a flight to Pamplona, spending the night - it's a lovely town - and taking a rather expensive taxi to France. This little medieval town is thick with pilgrims.

Got here early Saturday morning, anticipating that I would have to find a place to take a COVID test in order to get a barcode and check into the hotel or go to a restaurant. When I arrived, I discovered that the hotels generally don't open till 3:00 in the afternoon, so I walked up to the pilgrim office and left my bag there.

They told me that my US CDC vaccination card would be accepted at any hotel and some of the restaurants. They assured me that it was not necessary to obtain a pass sanitaire for my one day in France as long as I had my US documentation. We are no more than a couple of kilometers from the Spanish border, and the place is full of foreigners, so perhaps the interpretation of the rules is a little looser here.

That is certainly a relief. Tomorrow, Roncesvalles, and no need to worry about a pass sanitaire anymore. Now I just need to find a way to occupy myself for three hours while I wait for the hotel to open.
 

Rick M

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
April ('16,'18, '19, 21)
Sitting in cdg right now waiting to board the Biarritz flight. I had received the French covid pass, but Connie didn't. Went to air France customer service, and they looked at her vaccine cert and reprinted the boarding pass with the ready to fly notation that you need at the gate. No test required.
 
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Ginobiliii

New Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino Frances
Sitting in cdg right now waiting to board the Biarritz flight. I had received the French covid pass, but Connie didn't. Went to air France customer service, and they looked at her vaccine cert and reprinted the boarding pass with the ready to fly notation that you need at the gate. No test required.
That’s great to hear thank you for this info!
 
Past OR future Camino
2019
Yes, radio silence. Haven't had any luck hearing from the French public health overseers either, despite three shots of Moderna and submitting an application for a pass sanitaire 10 days ago.

I arrived in SJPP a few hours ago after flying into Madrid from NYC, then hopping on a flight to Pamplona, spending the night - it's a lovely town - and taking a rather expensive taxi to France. This little medieval town is thick with pilgrims.

Got here early Saturday morning, anticipating that I would have to find a place to take a COVID test in order to get a barcode and check into the hotel or go to a restaurant. When I arrived, I discovered that the hotels generally don't open till 3:00 in the afternoon, so I walked up to the pilgrim office and left my bag there.

They told me that my US CDC vaccination card would be accepted at any hotel and some of the restaurants. They assured me that it was not necessary to obtain a pass sanitaire for my one day in France as long as I had my US documentation. We are no more than a couple of kilometers from the Spanish border, and the place is full of foreigners, so perhaps the interpretation of the rules is a little looser here.

That is certainly a relief. Tomorrow, Roncesvalles, and no need to worry about a pass sanitaire anymore. Now I just need to find a way to occupy myself for three hours while I wait for the hotel to open.
----------
Addendum a couple of hours later: Went to three restaurants, two required the EU digital vaccination certificate, one did not. I'm hanging out at the third restaurant until my hotel opens its doors in 90 minutes.
 

Kev&Kath

Member
Past OR future Camino
2021
This what I thought was correct as well but I’ve read all kinds of variations.

CDC card ok to get in France but QR code or test needed for everything else seems common. Applied for QR code like 3 weeks ago and it’s been radio silence.

I’m leaving Sep 19th DFW to CDG with a connected flight to Biarritz on Air France. Got an email from Air France saying vaccination card was enough but others say they had to scramble at CDG to get a test in between flights because they wouldn’t let them board with CDC card alone. On top of that I’ve read that they’ve been denying test results from places outside of EU because they can’t verify them (same reason CDC card isn’t enough).

It’s a cluster and just going to have to see what happens in CDG. Have a 3.5 hour layover so hopefully it’s enough time to work it out. And all for being in France for 24 hours.
Ginobiliii thank you. I've been using both the Sherpa and Schengen News sources to discern travel requirements for France. Like you...wife and I will be staging through Paris for only 24 hours before heading down to StJPdP. Our trip kicks off in mid-Oct. I'm always cautious in reading too much into 'social media' guidance on travel requirments, and I'm still left with the strong impression that the CDC Card (have also applied for the French conversion of the CDC) will suffice.

Good luck for your transit tomorrow. Hopefully, you'll be able to provide some very current intel on requirements for your trip.

Have a great pilgramage...and Buen Camino!
 
Past OR future Camino
2019
Left SJPP Roncesvalles. This first stage is a real trial by fire. Absolutely gorgeous. Steep, endless inclines.

At a stop there was a sign saying that nobody could be served without and EU digital pass. But nobody was showing a pass and in fact almost nobody was even wearing a mask. The woman in front of me in line to get coffee had wrapped a cloth around her mouth and nose and the man behind the counter just laughed at her.

On to Roncevalles!
 
Past OR future Camino
2019
----------
Addendum a couple of hours later: Went to three restaurants, two required the EU digital vaccination certificate, one did not. I'm hanging out at the third restaurant until my hotel opens its doors in 90 minutes.
The two restaurants that I said had required the EU digital vaccination certificate may actually not have required it. I've come across a few restaurants that have the notice posted but ignore it. They have the sign prominently posted, apparently as a formality, but don't actually check.

apparently as a formality don't check for the certificate
 
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Ginobiliii

New Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino Frances
Ginobiliii thank you. I've been using both the Sherpa and Schengen News sources to discern travel requirements for France. Like you...wife and I will be staging through Paris for only 24 hours before heading down to StJPdP. Our trip kicks off in mid-Oct. I'm always cautious in reading too much into 'social media' guidance on travel requirments, and I'm still left with the strong impression that the CDC Card (have also applied for the French conversion of the CDC) will suffice.

Good luck for your transit tomorrow. Hopefully, you'll be able to provide some very current intel on requirements for your trip.

Have a great pilgramage...and Buen Camino!
So an update everything went as smooth as I could have hoped for!

Never did get the health pass QR code. Just had the CDC card and didn’t run into any issues. Air France CDG to Biarritz barely even looked at it and just wanted to see I had something in hand. Never asked for any Covid test either. I saw a few people that appeared to have their info as a picture on their phone and they were getting held up. Definitely bring a physical form.

In St Jean no one asked for a health pass or QR code. Hotel didn’t ask and did a little bar hoping before dinner and was never asked for it. Masks needed everywhere indoors as expected.

St Jean is super busy. Definitely recommend reserving a spot. Every albergue and gite I passed on the main pilgrim strip were full.
 

Kev&Kath

Member
Past OR future Camino
2021
So an update everything went as smooth as I could have hoped for!

Never did get the health pass QR code. Just had the CDC card and didn’t run into any issues. Air France CDG to Biarritz barely even looked at it and just wanted to see I had something in hand. Never asked for any Covid test either. I saw a few people that appeared to have their info as a picture on their phone and they were getting held up. Definitely bring a physical form.

In St Jean no one asked for a health pass or QR code. Hotel didn’t ask and did a little bar hoping before dinner and was never asked for it. Masks needed everywhere indoors as expected.

St Jean is super busy. Definitely recommend reserving a spot. Every albergue and gite I passed on the main pilgrim strip were full.
Thanks so much. That's terrific info!
 

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