starting Aug 27th, 2022, Oviedo - Primitivo

[Jenine]

Hola Peregrinos!
Anyone have any tips for the Primitivo? Any "must see/do" advice or Restaurants/Towns not to miss? Places to avoid if any?
Has anyone walked from Aviles to Oviedo? Is it worth adding a day to walk it or would it be better to bus it and spend the time in Oviedo instead?
Thanks for sharing your thoughts!

Buen Camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hola Peregrinos!
Anyone have any tips for the Primitivo? Any "must see/do" advice or Restaurants/Towns not to miss? Places to avoid if any?
Has anyone walked from Aviles to Oviedo? Is it worth adding a day to walk it or would it be better to bus it and spend the time in Oviedo instead?
Thanks for sharing your thoughts!

Buen Camino!

If you are going to walk from the Norte to Oviedo, the marked split is a few kms after Villaviciosa, so you do not go into Avilés. Avilés is one of those towns that has really done a lot of redevelopment of its historic downtown core and it is really pleasant. The unpleasant part is the stretch from Gijón to Avilés, which you will avoid if you head southwest at Villaviciosa, where you'll go straight into Oviedo to start the Primitivo.

 

[oursonpolaire]

Hola Peregrinos!
Anyone have any tips for the Primitivo? Any "must see/do" advice or Restaurants/Towns not to miss? Places to avoid if any?
Has anyone walked from Aviles to Oviedo? Is it worth adding a day to walk it or would it be better to bus it and spend the time in Oviedo instead?
Thanks for sharing your thoughts!

Buen Camino!

There's not a lot of distraction once you're on the Primitivo, aside from the excursion to Naranco, or the museum of Roman stuff at Castro (a few hundred m off the trail). Most pueblos give you very little choice for restaurants, so just ask locally in most cases-- in Villaviciosa I liked the parilla at Plaza Eccohomo. I would recommend the bus to Oviedo rather than the walk-- Oviedo has an interesting cathedral with an exceptional relic (the Sudarium), and the Museum of Fine Arts of Asturias on C/Santa Ana has some real treasures of Spanish art, and is an enjoyable experience.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Yes, Oviedo itself has much to see.
Also:-
Grandas de Salime has/had an ethnological museum - you would need to check if it is still open.
Castro is just 6kms from Grandas so a short day if wanting to visit the museum there.
Lugo is worth an extra day (or more) with its Roman walls, Roman baths and the various museums as well as the cathedral there.
Buen Camino

 

[Jenine]

If you are going to walk from the Norte to Oviedo, the marked split is a few kms after Villaviciosa, so you do not go into Avilés. Avilés is one of those towns that has really done a lot of redevelopment of its historic downtown core and it is really pleasant. The unpleasant part is the stretch from Gijón to Avilés, which you will avoid if you head southwest at Villaviciosa, where you'll go straight into Oviedo to start the Primitivo.

Thank you for your reply. I walked the Norte in 2020 from Bordeaux, France along the coast to Ribadeo. Due to time constraints I am starting in Oviedo this time but flying into Asturias at night so I was considering spending the night closer to the airport in Aviles and walking in the morning. If it is an unpleasant walk then I might consider just taking a quick bus ride and spending the day in Oviedo. Thanks though

 

[Jenine]

There's not a lot of distraction once you're on the Primitivo, aside from the excursion to Naranco, or the museum of Roman stuff at Castro (a few hundred m off the trail). Most pueblos give you very little choice for restaurants, so just ask locally in most cases-- in Villaviciosa I liked the parilla at Plaza Eccohomo. I would recommend the bus to Oviedo rather than the walk-- Oviedo has an interesting cathedral with an exceptional relic (the Sudarium), and the Museum of Fine Arts of Asturias on C/Santa Ana has some real treasures of Spanish art, and is an enjoyable experience.

That sounds great.... I think a day in Oviedo to decompress from airport stress before walking is the best option...thanks for the tips!

 

[Jenine]

Yes, Oviedo itself has much to see.
Also:-
Grandas de Salime has/had an ethnological museum - you would need to check if it is still open.
Castro is just 6kms from Grandas so a short day if wanting to visit the museum there.
Lugo is worth an extra day (or more) with its Roman walls, Roman baths and the various museums as well as the cathedral there.
Buen Camino

This is very helpful. Thank you!!

 

[peregrina2000]

Thank you for your reply. I walked the Norte in 2020 from Bordeaux, France along the coast to Ribadeo. Due to time constraints I am starting in Oviedo this time but flying into Asturias at night so I was considering spending the night closer to the airport in Aviles and walking in the morning. If it is an unpleasant walk then I might consider just taking a quick bus ride and spending the day in Oviedo. Thanks though

It’s a pleasant walk from Avilés to Oviedo, some road walking but not too much. Nothing particularly spetacular, but nice. And leaving Avilés in the direction of Oviedo will not take you through all the industrial stuff to Avilés’ east. Very few people walk this way, I met one other person. And you will be walking “backwards” against the arrows, and I don’t know if that will require a GPS or not.

If I had a choice between walking from Avilés to Oviedo and spending a full day in Oviedo, I’d definitely go for the day in Oviedo. If you like old churches, you could do some walking and head up to the Naranco sites (World Heritage) for a visit to two 9th century very beautiful places. https://www.santamariadelnaranco.es/

The city of Oviedo is IMO, one of the prettiest small cities in Spain. Beautiful old historic core, sophisticated 19th century neighborhoods, lots of statues all over the place, gorgeous parks (The Parque de Invierno is really beautiful, on the edge of town). Lively atmosphere and lots of opportunities to drink sidra. Even if you don’t like it, the atmosphere is great and it’s fun to watch the wait staff doing those fancy pourings over their shoulders.

There is good bus service to both Avilés and Oviedo from the airpport. If you’re not going to walk from Avilés, I would consider getting the bus directly to Oviedo from the airport, then you are there the night before and have the whole next day to enjoy it.

No bad choices here, that’s for sure.

 

[JerryStroebele]

Plan to overnight in Bodenaya if you can make a reservation at David's albergue 645888984. Yes, the palace/churches at Naranco will certainly set you in a delightful walking mood. (But don't miss the Cathedral in Oviedo.) Cut your toenails way back to the quick. There are several very steep descents. Buen Camino

 

[lt56ny]

If you are going to walk from the Norte to Oviedo, the marked split is a few kms after Villaviciosa, so you do not go into Avilés. Avilés is one of those towns that has really done a lot of redevelopment of its historic downtown core and it is really pleasant. The unpleasant part is the stretch from Gijón to Avilés, which you will avoid if you head southwest at Villaviciosa, where you'll go straight into Oviedo to start the Primitivo.

Unpleasant is one word for it! It is lucky I have perfected my ability to completely space out when I am walking. It really came in handy in that stretch of the Norte. I took a rest day in Gijon that was much needed. I should have taken it in Aviles.

 

[Jenine]

It’s a pleasant walk from Avilés to Oviedo, some road walking but not too much. Nothing particularly spetacular, but nice. And leaving Avilés in the direction of Oviedo will not take you through all the industrial stuff to Avilés’ east. Very few people walk this way, I met one other person. And you will be walking “backwards” against the arrows, and I don’t know if that will require a GPS or not.

If I had a choice between walking from Avilés to Oviedo and spending a full day in Oviedo, I’d definitely go for the day in Oviedo. If you like old churches, you could do some walking and head up to the Naranco sites (World Heritage) for a visit to two 9th century very beautiful places. https://www.santamariadelnaranco.es/

The city of Oviedo is IMO, one of the prettiest small cities in Spain. Beautiful old historic core, sophisticated 19th century neighborhoods, lots of statues all over the place, gorgeous parks (The Parque de Invierno is really beautiful, on the edge of town). Lively atmosphere and lots of opportunities to drink sidra. Even if you don’t like it, the atmosphere is great and it’s fu to watch the wait staff doing those fancy pourings over their shoulders.

There is good bus service to both Avilés and Oviedo from the airpport. If you’re not going to walk from Avilés, I would consider getting the bus directly to Oviedo from the airport, then you are there the night before and have the whole next day to enjoy it.

No bad choices here, that’s for sure.

Excellent. I'm sold on the day in Oviedo. Thank you so much!!!

 

[trecile]

Unpleasant is one word for it! It is lucky I have perfected my ability to completely space out when I am walking. It really came in handy in that stretch of the Norte. I took a rest day in Gijon that was much needed. I should have taken it in Aviles.

But as @peregrina2000 said, the walk between Avilés and Oviedo is very different from the walk between Gijón and Avilés.

I've walked from Oviedo to Avilés and it was a pleasant day with no other pilgrims on the way.

But yeah, if my time were limited I'd rather spend the day in Oviedo.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I loved Oviedo. Definitely worth a day if you can work it in. Lugo is a gem as well.

 

[lt56ny]

But as @peregrina2000 said, the walk between Avilés and Oviedo is very different from the walk between Gijón and Avilés.

I've walked from Oviedo to Avilés and it was a pleasant day with no other pilgrims on the way.

But yeah, if my time were limited I'd rather spend the day in Oviedo.

I have never walked that way so I leave the plusses of that walk to you and others who have done the Primitivo. All I can say is that I wasn't big on GIjon as a rest day and I have heard Oviedo is a nice town.

 

[andarapie]

Excellent. I'm sold on the day in Oviedo. Thank you so much!!!

Oviedo is a beautiful city with a lot of Art Nouveau (Secession) and Deco architecture and sculpture throughout the town. Take some time just to wander its streets. If you want to visit the three Visigothic churches in and outside of Oviedo (which I would recommend as they are some of the oldest churches on the Camino, if not the oldest, and are more interesting than the Cathedral, which is just another Spanish cathedral) be aware that they are closed from about 12pm-4pm and are only open for guided tours - I made the mistake of trying to visit them in the afternoon and was pretty frustrated.

 

[peregrina2000]

… be aware that they are closed from about 12pm-4pm and are only open for guided tours - I made the mistake of trying to visit them in the afternoon and was pretty frustrated.

The Naranco sites are open in the afternoon in summer Tuesday through Saturday.

Santa María de Naranco y San Miguel de Lillo

Santa María del Naranco y San Miguel de Lillo (Oviedo-España) son emblemas del prerrománico asturiano. Sitio web para consultar horarios y visitas.

www.santamariadelnaranco.es

Summer Schedule
1 April to 30 September.
Tuesday through Saturday, 9:30 - 1:00 and 3:30-7 pm.
Sunday and Monday 9:30 -1:00 pm.

Winter Schedule
1 October to 31 March
Tuesday through Saturday, 10 - 2:30 p.m.
Sunday and Monday, 10 - 12:30

I think the third site you are referring to is San Julián de los Prados, much closer to the city center and also well worth a visit.

The schedule for visiting San Julián is much more detailed, and even though it’s in Spanish, it’s pretty easy to understand.

Visitas guiadas

Página de la parroquia de San Julián de los Prados, iglesia de Santullano

www.sanjuliandelosprados.com

​

 

[andarapie]

The Naranco sites are open in the afternoon in summer Tuesday through Saturday.

Santa María de Naranco y San Miguel de Lillo

Santa María del Naranco y San Miguel de Lillo (Oviedo-España) son emblemas del prerrománico asturiano. Sitio web para consultar horarios y visitas.

www.santamariadelnaranco.es

Summer Schedule
1 April to 30 September.
Tuesday through Saturday, 9:30 - 1:00 and 3:30-7 pm.
Sunday and Monday 9:30 -1:00 pm.

Winter Schedule
1 October to 31 March
Tuesday through Saturday, 10 - 2:30 p.m.
Sunday and Monday, 10 - 12:30

I think the third site you are referring to is San Julián de los Prados, much closer to the city center and also well worth a visit.

The schedule for visiting San Julián is much more detailed, and even though it’s in Spanish, it’s pretty easy to understand.

Visitas guiadas

Página de la parroquia de San Julián de los Prados, iglesia de Santullano

www.sanjuliandelosprados.com

​

All I know is that I was there in July 2021, I got to San Julian around noon and it was closed until around 4, and then I walked up to the other two churches, and by the time I got there, they were "open" but they weren't allowing people in because you had to go with a group that only left every half hour or hour, and I was too late for the last one before the lunch break. I actually hung around waiting for them to open, which might have been at 3:30, but at that time they still weren't letting people in because that was just the time the caretakers showed up, the tour didn't start until a half hour later and I couldn't wait that long.