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Starting from Lisbon — good or bad idea?

peregrina2000

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I’ve been reading the forum posts for more than a decade, and I think it’s safe to say that the route that gets the most disagreement is the Portugues starting in Lisbon. So much so that the owner of one of the albergues along the way recorded several videos with pilgrim opinions.


I walked this route about ten years ago, well before there were any albergues at all. Since the Via Lusitana (a camino group based in Lisbon) has made its appearance, they have done a lot to improve markings, get the route off the road, and incentivize albergues (they even operate one themselves, in Alpriate, 21 km from the Lisbon cathedral). They also produce their own, very nice, credencial, which you can get at the Lisbon cathedral. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/portuguese-credential-has-arrived.60265/

For those who are debating whether to start in Lisbon or Porto, would veterans care to chime in here with their opinions?

I can start by throwing out a few pros and cons. I was inspired to do this by some comments on a recent thread.

Pros
— for me, the longer the camino, the better!
— towns of Tomar, Coimbra, Roman Ruins of Condeixa a Nova
— the Portuguese people
— fresh honest food
— lower cost than Spain
— the albergue in Alpriate, kind of like the Orisson of the Portugues. A place for pilgrims to start to get to know each other.
— route out of Lisbon from the cathedral goes through old town, old port, lovely Expo site along the river

Cons
— road walking (though I cannot imagine there is more road walking between Lisbon and Porto than on the official Norte route)
—very little elevation gain (though for some that may be a pro)
— no pilgrim office in Lisbon, indifferent treatment by the cathedral (I just read this on a recent post, and it is true, but I’m not sure that distinguishes this route from any other camino, except maybe SJPP with its pilgrim office).
— pleasant, but not spectacular scenery

I’m sure there are many more, but this is a start. Bom caminho, Laurie
 
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I’ve been reading the forum posts for more than a decade, and I think it’s safe to say that the route that gets the most disagreement is the Portugues starting in Lisbon. So much so that the owner of one of the albergues along the way recorded several videos with pilgrim opinions.


I walked this route about ten years ago, well before there were any albergues at all. Since the Via Lusitana (a camino group based in Lisbon) has made its appearance, they have done a lot to improve markings, get the route off the road, and incentivize albergues (they even operate one themselves, in Alpriate, 21 km from the Lisbon cathedral). They also produce their own, very nice, credencial, which you can get at the Lisbon cathedral. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/portuguese-credential-has-arrived.60265/

For those who are debating whether to start in Lisbon or Porto, would veterans care to chime in here with their opinions?

I can start by throwing out a few pros and cons. I was inspired to do this by some comments on a recent thread.

Pros
— for me, the longer the camino, the better!
— towns of Tomar, Coimbra, Roman Ruins of Condeixa a Nova
— the Portuguese people
— fresh honest food
— lower cost than Spain
— the albergue in Alpriate, kind of like the Orisson of the Portugues. A place for pilgrims to start to get to know each other.
— route out of Lisbon from the cathedral goes through old town, old port, lovely Expo site along the river

Cons
— road walking (though I cannot imagine there is more road walking between Lisbon and Porto than on the official Norte route)
—very little elevation gain (though for some that may be a pro)
— no pilgrim office in Lisbon, indifferent treatment by the cathedral (I just read this on a recent post, and it is true, but I’m not sure that distinguishes this route from any other camino, except maybe SJPP with its pilgrim office).
— pleasant, but not spectacular scenery

I’m sure there are many more, but this is a start. Bom caminho, Laurie
I usually avoid the Lisbon vs Porto threads as the often bad rap the Lisbon leg receives ruffles my feathers a tad 🕊 but here goes...
I walked the CP in 2015 starting in Lisbon...& would do so again. Personally I'd have felt I only did half the job if I started in Porto. I also believe if you choose to walk a path you accept all that path entails. Of course there are many reasons people start in Porto..time may be one...but I don't think its fair to disregard a section of any walk (anywhere) because it is deemed 'not worthy'. Merit & positives can always be found.
No trail is ideal...they all have good, bad & ugly. The bad & the ugly make you appreciate the good so much more. I agree with your Pro's @peregrina2000 but most of your Con's would be in my Pro column which just goes to show its all very subjective & a matter of personal choice!
The CP is my 2nd favourite walk of all the long distance paths I've tackled...& for me it was not a trail of two halves. I loved all of it...different sections for different reasons & I can't even imagine not starting in Lisbon. Many of my most treasured memories were prior to Porto.
Oh...& if you want to experience real indifference, walk 2100+ km from London & collect your VF testimonial from the Visitor Centre at Vatican City in Rome! 😄
Happy trails...which ever you choose!
👣 🌏
 
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While the towns already mentioned above are well worth a visit and the food in some places is excellent, I felt the walking itself was the least inspiring of any Camino I have done and in addition, most of the churches were closed and we couldn't find a way to get the keys from locals, like you can on some of the less travelled Spanish Caminos. However, we really enjoyed the Caminho afet Porto.
 
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I liked Tomar but the cobblestones - not the asphalt - destroyed my feet. For some reason, I wasn’t crazy about Coimbra. Only started really enjoying the Caminho Portugues walking along the river out of sports. The albergues for the most part out of Lisboa were spacious, modern and really great. Very few walkers along the way, but that is the case with many trails, and was not a deal breaker for me.
 
I loved the CP from Lisbon to porto. The cobbles are killing {walking into Porto I was singing away 'I hate cobblestones in the morning' - I know they are actually setts but that didn't fit the tune)
I enjoyed the smaller number of pilgrims which often meant a warmer welcome. But enough pilgrims that you had company. Most of the albergues were good.
Yes there is some road walking but I always felt it was balanced out by some lovely sections, the river and interesting towns. I think the only day I found ugh was walking into Porto but even then there was a steep climb up a roman road in woods.
It gave me more time to eat pastel de nata! And the food was good. Much more variety than what has become the standard pilgrim menu on CF and generally higher quality and cheaper
And to be honest I didn't expect a significant welcome at Lisbon cathedral. SJPdP is very different as it now deals with vast numbers of pilgrims. Then again I don't recall a significant pilgrim welcome in porto cathedral either!
I think that even since I walked 2-3 years ago more albergues have opened to address some of the long sections. Some of these longer distances did discourage but I don't think they are really an issue any longer such
 
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We agree with Peregrina2000. We walked from Lisbon in 2015 in May and thoroughly enjoyed all aspects of it. Yes it may have a little more ‘road walking’ than some other routes (but maybe not), but that’s the beauty of a Camino. You get up and walk......dealing with whatever is ahead of you. Every Camino is different and they are all ‘good.’

The Portuguese people are wonderful, the food is outstanding and it does seem to be less expensive than France and Spain. However cost is all relative....any route can be as expensive as you let it be.

We walked in complete sunshine from Lisbon to Santiago. We’ve walked the Frances, Le Puy, Arles and CP and all were very different but all great. We are like Peregrina2000 in that the longer the better.

Bottom line.......if you have the time......walk from Lisbon.

Karen and Dayton
 
I have to put in a vote for Lisbon to Porto as well. Although I wasn't sure when I walked it. It was hot, road walking, and not a lot of pilgrims. But in hindsight, the cities you go through, the food, and the locals that you interact with make it well worthwhile. It's different. But then, each Camino is different. If you want a "rural walking" experience this one isn't for you but I did love it and would do it again (hopefully, will).
 
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I’ve been reading the forum posts for more than a decade, and I think it’s safe to say that the route that gets the most disagreement is the Portugues starting in Lisbon. So much so that the owner of one of the albergues along the way recorded several videos with pilgrim opinions.


I walked this route about ten years ago, well before there were any albergues at all. Since the Via Lusitana (a camino group based in Lisbon) has made its appearance, they have done a lot to improve markings, get the route off the road, and incentivize albergues (they even operate one themselves, in Alpriate, 21 km from the Lisbon cathedral). They also produce their own, very nice, credencial, which you can get at the Lisbon cathedral. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/portuguese-credential-has-arrived.60265/

For those who are debating whether to start in Lisbon or Porto, would veterans care to chime in here with their opinions?

I can start by throwing out a few pros and cons. I was inspired to do this by some comments on a recent thread.

Pros
— for me, the longer the camino, the better!
— towns of Tomar, Coimbra, Roman Ruins of Condeixa a Nova
— the Portuguese people
— fresh honest food
— lower cost than Spain
— the albergue in Alpriate, kind of like the Orisson of the Portugues. A place for pilgrims to start to get to know each other.
— route out of Lisbon from the cathedral goes through old town, old port, lovely Expo site along the river

Cons
— road walking (though I cannot imagine there is more road walking between Lisbon and Porto than on the official Norte route)
—very little elevation gain (though for some that may be a pro)
— no pilgrim office in Lisbon, indifferent treatment by the cathedral (I just read this on a recent post, and it is true, but I’m not sure that distinguishes this route from any other camino, except maybe SJPP with its pilgrim office).
— pleasant, but not spectacular scenery

I’m sure there are many more, but this is a start. Bom caminho, Laurie

Dear Laurie and All
A wee 'chime in' here - a peregrina from Lisboa to SdC - May 2014 (before those spiffy boardwalks appeared)
It's perhaps a 'fruitless' debate if one would look for a 'winner'.
In my experience of life in general and Portuguese Caminho in particular - much has to do with ones intention/s, preferences/biases, perception/s and attitude/s.
I for one LOVED the Portuguese caminho for what it is and how it shaped me (aka the echoes of this pilgrimage are still with me and reverberate).

Considering starting in Porto was never an issue - it was to start at Lisboa. Period. I wanted to 'swim/bathe' in the country/atmosphere, not just having a toe-dip.
That's just my preference.

For e.g. some prefer to just celebrate Christmas-season On Dec 24 and 25th - and on the 26th, the tree will be de-decorated and is out the door presto.
I for one start with 1.Advent Sunday, Samichlaus (Dec 6th), etc and conclude with Epiphany, Jan 6th.
It's a peaceful, in-drawn time, not much boisterousness, but lots of candles, Panetone, Stollen, some gifts, etc.
That's just what rings my chimes. Who's to say that the chimes rung on just Dec 24 and 25th would be any less enjoyable/meaningful?

So --- Sure - the cobblestones are bloody murder - but somehow there became part of it too. And as i knew of them prior to the pilgrimage (due to multiple prior Portugal sojourns) - I prepared w/ good footwear and insoles (Montrail, as i recall. Even had a spare-set of silicone insoles)
The complaint of much road-walking i never understood. I walked many a mile through fab countryside, fields, forests, etc.
I encountered a woman who lamented the drag from Azambuja to Santarem along the busy roads. Which had me puzzled - as I had walked the same points (from A to S) but through lovely countryside and encountered the most spectacular poppy fields i had ever seen in my life.
Turns out - she had mis-read the map.
Of course - laments then would amount to: "PC has lots of road-walking" and not the less flattering, but more honest: "I am too bloody daft to read a map properly".

Am not aiming to convince anyone to do or not do XYZ.
everything has light and shadow sides, that's just the nature of life on this planet.
I just don't go along with statements or claims that a "one course meal" equals a "five course meal", or a 'three course meal of chinese food'' is the same as a 'three course meal of persian food" - as an example.
The experience is different - but if and when anyone is happy with a one course meal - who am I do debate or discuss that choice?
If the PC from Porto is the ticket for you - go right ahead.
wherever you start walking from - I wish you a blessed pilgrimage -
to me the caminho was especially precious when i realised that the Way walked me ... instead of the 'me' walking the Way.

(and as an aside - i am aiming for living less on the 'comparative mode' - when everything is measured, compared, quantified - and live with life as it is, presenting itself now and here wherever i might live, sit, walk, pilgrim, write. )

saluti, C
 
I also agree that if you have the time, a start in Lisbon is the way to go. It was my first "long" Camino of 700 km, and not having done the Frances, I had no grandiose expectations of what a Camino "should" be. I had done the Ingles, the Finisterre and the Primitivo, and frankly, they were not long enough for me, but fit my schedule at the time.

I always thought that a pilgrim must do what she must do, and I never even considered taking buses, trains, shortcuts, avoiding "industrial" areas or whatever. Every step was to be completed, in my book. I didn't know any better at the time, but now I am increasingly surprised that there are so many complaints about any section on the Portuguese, regardless if it is from Lisbon OR Porto.

Every section has its ups and downs, places I would rather not have walked, and cobblestone that I would rather have avoided! The biggest downer is indeed, the cobblestone, in my opinion.

But the beauty of the towns between Lisbon and Porto, and the history, for me was phenomenal! Yes I loved the walk out of Lisbon, along the river on fitness paths and boardwalks, and thru the old Expo site. Yes, I loved Santarem, Tomar, Coimbra, the Roman ruins and the Roman roads. These were the highlights!

But I also loved the solitude, the long walks through the fields on the farmer's lanes, the cork forests, the endless vineyards, the wine estates and the Azulejo, blue tiles. The towns and places that had Azulejo waymarks and shrines, often in the middle of nowhere, were absolutely charming.

As for the albergues, yes, more and more are popping up, keeping some of the stages more manageable for most. But we didn't even care about that. The owners of the family-run hotels were so friendly and helpful, and we had the budget to stay in these when needed.

So I will always, always give a resounding GO FOR IT to anyone who doubts the beauty, the delicious food and wine, the inexpensiveness, the friendliness, the history and and the culture of this lovely land. The CP is not a walk in the park, so if you want a cafe con leite every 10 km, this is not the Camino for you!
 
I liked Tomar but the cobblestones - not the asphalt - destroyed my feet. For some reason, I wasn’t crazy about Coimbra. Only started really enjoying the Caminho Portugues walking along the river out of sports. The albergues for the most part out of Lisboa were spacious, modern and really great. Very few walkers along the way, but that is the case with many trails, and was not a deal breaker for me.
Typo: sports = Porto! Apple autospell - grrr! n
 
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We walked from Lisbon to SdC in 2017.

Glad we did.

Did Porto to SdC via the coast. Loved the boardwalks and route.

Hated walking on the cobblestones but loved the cobblestone look.

Each Camino has pro's and cons.

By all means. do your research and listen to others but as always, you choose your own Camino.

And yeah

So I will always, always give a resounding GO FOR IT to anyone who doubts the beauty, the delicious food and wine, the inexpensiveness, the friendliness, the history and and the culture of this lovely land. The CP is not a walk in the park, so if you want a cafe con leite every 10 km, this is not the Camino for you!

Great advice from Elle -

And also you might find some of those wonderful cafe con leche establishments listed in the guidebook - closed! (as we discovered quite frequently on the CP)

And then you'll get grumpy :mad:

Until

You find a Cafe con leche that is open! :)

Ahhhh-the Camino provides!!

Cheers
 
I’ve been reading the forum posts for more than a decade, and I think it’s safe to say that the route that gets the most disagreement is the Portugues starting in Lisbon. So much so that the owner of one of the albergues along the way recorded several videos with pilgrim opinions.


I walked this route about ten years ago, well before there were any albergues at all. Since the Via Lusitana (a camino group based in Lisbon) has made its appearance, they have done a lot to improve markings, get the route off the road, and incentivize albergues (they even operate one themselves, in Alpriate, 21 km from the Lisbon cathedral). They also produce their own, very nice, credencial, which you can get at the Lisbon cathedral. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/portuguese-credential-has-arrived.60265/

For those who are debating whether to start in Lisbon or Porto, would veterans care to chime in here with their opinions?

I can start by throwing out a few pros and cons. I was inspired to do this by some comments on a recent thread.

Pros
— for me, the longer the camino, the better!
— towns of Tomar, Coimbra, Roman Ruins of Condeixa a Nova
— the Portuguese people
— fresh honest food
— lower cost than Spain
— the albergue in Alpriate, kind of like the Orisson of the Portugues. A place for pilgrims to start to get to know each other.
— route out of Lisbon from the cathedral goes through old town, old port, lovely Expo site along the river

Cons
— road walking (though I cannot imagine there is more road walking between Lisbon and Porto than on the official Norte route)
—very little elevation gain (though for some that may be a pro)
— no pilgrim office in Lisbon, indifferent treatment by the cathedral (I just read this on a recent post, and it is true, but I’m not sure that distinguishes this route from any other camino, except maybe SJPP with its pilgrim office).
— pleasant, but not spectacular scenery

I’m sure there are many more, but this is a start. Bom caminho, Laurie
I walked from Lisbon to Finisterre via the central route in September 2017. I really enjoyed it until Porto then it seemed to have a different feel. From Lisbon there were not a lot of pilgrims and most of the albergues had plenty of beds, some were just about empty. From Porto it was crowded and I had to make reservations for accommodation. From Tui onwards it was unbearable and I couldn’t wait for it to be over.
 
I walked from Lisbon in 2016. In my opinion there is so much of the real Portugal to be seen before Porto.
I have walked from SJPP, the PrimItivo and the Sanabres. They all had their fair share of road walking. The cobblestone did not bother me.
I would always advise anyone to commence their camino in Lisbon if they are not limited in their time.
 
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I always thought that if I did the Portuguese Camino that I would definitely start from Lisbon, as I like a long walk, but when a friend asked me to walk with her from Porto this September - after I had already done a 900+ km in the Spring - I said yes! I was happy that I did it, but did feel that I missed something by not starting farther back. As soon as I got back into the Camino groove it was over! If I do the Portuguese Camino again I'd like to start from Lisbon.
 
I’ve been reading the forum posts for more than a decade, and I think it’s safe to say that the route that gets the most disagreement is the Portugues starting in Lisbon. So much so that the owner of one of the albergues along the way recorded several videos with pilgrim opinions.


I walked this route about ten years ago, well before there were any albergues at all. Since the Via Lusitana (a camino group based in Lisbon) has made its appearance, they have done a lot to improve markings, get the route off the road, and incentivize albergues (they even operate one themselves, in Alpriate, 21 km from the Lisbon cathedral). They also produce their own, very nice, credencial, which you can get at the Lisbon cathedral. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/portuguese-credential-has-arrived.60265/

For those who are debating whether to start in Lisbon or Porto, would veterans care to chime in here with their opinions?

I can start by throwing out a few pros and cons. I was inspired to do this by some comments on a recent thread.

Pros
— for me, the longer the camino, the better!
— towns of Tomar, Coimbra, Roman Ruins of Condeixa a Nova
— the Portuguese people
— fresh honest food
— lower cost than Spain
— the albergue in Alpriate, kind of like the Orisson of the Portugues. A place for pilgrims to start to get to know each other.
— route out of Lisbon from the cathedral goes through old town, old port, lovely Expo site along the river

Cons
— road walking (though I cannot imagine there is more road walking between Lisbon and Porto than on the official Norte route)
—very little elevation gain (though for some that may be a pro)
— no pilgrim office in Lisbon, indifferent treatment by the cathedral (I just read this on a recent post, and it is true, but I’m not sure that distinguishes this route from any other camino, except maybe SJPP with its pilgrim office).
— pleasant, but not spectacular scenery

I’m sure there are many more, but this is a start. Bom caminho, Laurie

Interesting thoughts, Laurie!
After our epic walk last year, we wanted to do another long walk, so as you know, we're starting in Lisbon. We had heard from many that we should start in Porto. I had been to Lisbon a few years ago, experienced Sintra and Cascais, but all without Rachel, so I wanted to share that part of Portugal with her.
Based on our experience last year, and in particular on the alternatives you suggested on the Norte, we're planning to walk alternatives to the 'official' Caminho from Lisbon to Porto.
Our plan is to walk from Lisbon to Estoril. From there walk the Caminho do Mar to Sintra. From Sintra, we will walk down to the coast to Praia das Maçãs. There, we will take the Trilho das Areias up to Peniche. We then take a bus to Obidos, where we're back on the Caminho do Mar to Caldas da Rainha (the stage after Peniche was too long for us, and we didn't fancy paying over 200€ a night in Praia d'el Rey). From Caldas da Rainha we'll get back onto the Trilho das Areias up to Nazare.
From Nazare to Fatima, and then from Fatima to Tomar, where we'll join the Caminho Português to Porto. After Porto, and we're still working on that, we intend to take the coastal route.
That should keep us busy for a few months. :)
Bom Caminho, Andrew
 
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Definitely walk the whole route if you have the time. It is not the French route but it is a great route.

The Portuguese people are wonderful. The cobbles are really hard on your feet. I'd recommend shoes with a more solid sole. The food is really nice. The trail is crowded north of Porto so just start early.
 
Interesting thoughts, Laurie!
After our epic walk last year, we wanted to do another long walk, so as you know, we're starting in Lisbon. We had heard from many that we should start in Porto. I had been to Lisbon a few years ago, experienced Sintra and Cascais, but all without Rachel, so I wanted to share that part of Portugal with her.
Based on our experience last year, and in particular on the alternatives you suggested on the Norte, we're planning to walk alternatives to the 'official' Caminho from Lisbon to Porto.
Our plan is to walk from Lisbon to Estoril. From there walk the Caminho do Mar to Sintra. From Sintra, we will walk down to the coast to Praia das Maçãs. There, we will take the Trilho das Areias up to Peniche. We then take a bus to Obidos, where we're back on the Caminho do Mar to Caldas da Rainha (the stage after Peniche was too long for us, and we didn't fancy paying over 200€ a night in Praia d'el Rey). From Caldas da Rainha we'll get back onto the Trilho das Areias up to Nazare.
From Nazare to Fatima, and then from Fatima to Tomar, where we'll join the Caminho Português to Porto. After Porto, and we're still working on that, we intend to take the coastal route.
That should keep us busy for a few months. :)
Bom Caminho, Andrew

For anyone with time in Peniche, which is a very nice little seaside town, there is a recently renovated and reopened museum in the old political prison. The prison itself has been open for visits for years, but it looks like there has been a grand renovation and re-opening. https://www.theguardian.com/world/2...se-political-prison-becomes-museum-of-freedom

With the similar museum in Lisbon, https://www.museudoaljube.pt/, there is now a good historical record of these years and a way to make sure people remember. I have seen school groups visiting the museum in Lisbon, with good guided explanations well targeted to their age.

This looks like a spectacular caminho, AJ!

P.s. If by any chance you can find a way from Praia das Maças south to Praia da Adraga, one of my favorite fresh fish restaurants in the world is located on that tiny beach. It’s not the unknown spot it used to be, but even so, it is still a wonderful location. http://restaurantedaadraga.com/
 
I’m going to be doing the Portuguese Camino in May next year but I’ll be starting in Porto. This choice is based simply on the time available to me - if I could walk from Lisbon I would, as from a personal point of view the longer the better. But I only have four weeks holiday, and I want to walk on to Finisterre too, so Porto it is.
 
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I’m going to be doing the Portuguese Camino in May next year but I’ll be starting in Porto. This choice is based simply on the time available to me - if I could walk from Lisbon I would, as from a personal point of view the longer the better. But I only have four weeks holiday, and I want to walk on to Finisterre too, so Porto it is.
With four weeks holiday maybe you could start at Coimbra, or somewhere a few days before Porto.

 
With four weeks holiday maybe you could start at Coimbra, or somewhere a few days before Porto.

Yes that’s true, but I do want to have a couple of days to look around Porto before I start, and a few days to recover at home before I return to work. It’s 26 hours to get from Sydney to Porto and I’ve always had a lot of difficulty sleeping on flights, so I know I won’t be in any fit state to set off the next day when I get to Portugal (or to go straight back to work after I get home).
 
I’ve been reading the forum posts for more than a decade, and I think it’s safe to say that the route that gets the most disagreement is the Portugues starting in Lisbon. So much so that the owner of one of the albergues along the way recorded several videos with pilgrim opinions.


I’m sure there are many more, but this is a start. Bom caminho, Laurie

My two bobs;' worth, having just come off the CP Lisbon to Santiago, via the Coastal/Senda Littoral route...

If I were to do it again, I would probably start in Tomar - the first couple of days out of Lisbon, while interesting in their own right, didn't inspire me enough to wan to do it again. The way became more interesting and uplifting from around Tomar and this continued to Porto.

Post-Porto, the coastal route, while easier on the body than the inland route and (sometimes) a joy to be walking within sight of the ocean, didn't quite feel like a pilgrimage but more a walk in the park.

I don't regret having taken the route i did - I just don't plan on doing it again...
 
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My two bobs;' worth, having just come off the CP Lisbon to Santiago, via the Coastal/Senda Littoral route...

If I were to do it again, I would probably start in Tomar - the first couple of days out of Lisbon, while interesting in their own right, didn't inspire me enough to wan to do it again. The way became more interesting and uplifting from around Tomar and this continued to Porto.

Post-Porto, the coastal route, while easier on the body than the inland route and (sometimes) a joy to be walking within sight of the ocean, didn't quite feel like a pilgrimage but more a walk in the park.

I dot regret having taken the route i did -I just don't plan on doing it again...

Thanks @LesR , that validates some of our planning decisions, joining the Caminho in Tomar after our excursions to the coast. And my wife will be happy to hear that the coastal route is more like a walk in the park :)
A few pilgrims in Melbourne who have walked in Portugal have told me they have gone back to Portugal to experience the alternative to what they walked, so we may well do the same: Coastal in 2020, and the Central another year.
Bom Caminho
 
Thanks @LesR , that validates some of our planning decisions, joining the Caminho in Tomar after our excursions to the coast. And my wife will be happy to hear that the coastal route is more like a walk in the park :)
A few pilgrims in Melbourne who have walked in Portugal have told me they have gone back to Portugal to experience the alternative to what they walked, so we may well do the same: Coastal in 2020, and the Central another year.
Bom Caminho

I too returned to Portugal - bus Santiago to Porto for four days, train Porto to Faro for five days, then the train back to Lisbon for three days. Would've liked to travel to other cities but ran out of time. Have to say that I found the Portuguese a more modern and vibrant society than the Spanish..
 
I started the coastal route in 2016 and found it too poorly signed, too tough and too expensive. I made it to praia das macas, then took a bus back to Lisbon and started again on the traditional route. I loved every minute, the people, scenery, food, vino tinto in earthenware jugs, pasta de nata for breakfast. Yes the cobblestones hurt and I got anterior compartment syndrome in my left lower leg from the camber of the roads. But are we not pilgrims? Should there not be some pain? This is not supposed to be like a some long walk in your home country.
Lisa-W
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
That makes no sense. Why would you invite pain? It does not make one better. I walked this route and torn up feet did not make me a better pilgrim or person.
 
I started the coastal route in 2016 and found it too poorly signed, too tough and too expensive. I made it to praia das macas, then took a bus back to Lisbon and started again on the traditional route. I loved every minute, the people, scenery, food, vino tinto in earthenware jugs, pasta de nata for breakfast. Yes the cobblestones hurt and I got anterior compartment syndrome in my left lower leg from the camber of the roads. But are we not pilgrims? Should there not be some pain? This is not supposed to be like a some long walk in your home country.
Lisa-W

Naproxen, K-Tape, and voltaren while walking. Ice and elevation while resting. Slow down a little and/or take a day off. Oh yeah, easy on the vino while eating naproxen.

On the CF a lot of us got this around the Meseta
 
That makes no sense. Why would you invite pain? It does not make one better. I walked this route and torn up feet did not make me a better pilgrim or person.
I agree. Creating more pain and suffering does not help anyone.
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
I’ve been reading the forum posts for more than a decade, and I think it’s safe to say that the route that gets the most disagreement is the Portugues starting in Lisbon. So much so that the owner of one of the albergues along the way recorded several videos with pilgrim opinions.


I walked this route about ten years ago, well before there were any albergues at all. Since the Via Lusitana (a camino group based in Lisbon) has made its appearance, they have done a lot to improve markings, get the route off the road, and incentivize albergues (they even operate one themselves, in Alpriate, 21 km from the Lisbon cathedral). They also produce their own, very nice, credencial, which you can get at the Lisbon cathedral. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/portuguese-credential-has-arrived.60265/

For those who are debating whether to start in Lisbon or Porto, would veterans care to chime in here with their opinions?

I can start by throwing out a few pros and cons. I was inspired to do this by some comments on a recent thread.

Pros
— for me, the longer the camino, the better!
— towns of Tomar, Coimbra, Roman Ruins of Condeixa a Nova
— the Portuguese people
— fresh honest food
— lower cost than Spain
— the albergue in Alpriate, kind of like the Orisson of the Portugues. A place for pilgrims to start to get to know each other.
— route out of Lisbon from the cathedral goes through old town, old port, lovely Expo site along the river

Cons
— road walking (though I cannot imagine there is more road walking between Lisbon and Porto than on the official Norte route)
—very little elevation gain (though for some that may be a pro)
— no pilgrim office in Lisbon, indifferent treatment by the cathedral (I just read this on a recent post, and it is true, but I’m not sure that distinguishes this route from any other camino, except maybe SJPP with its pilgrim office).
— pleasant, but not spectacular scenery

I’m sure there are many more, but this is a start. Bom caminho, Laurie
Hello Laurie...

Me again with my regular spot!!! The Tile Museum 8 kms out of Lisbon is fabulous!!! Right on the Camino. Beautifully laid out, interesting building, the displays thoughtful and include other European countries tile-making input.

The main downside for me was the air traffic noise which one endured for two days.
 
I have walked the CP from Porto to SdC twice and bicycled Lisbon to SdC once. The bicycle was used in lieu of walking due to recovering from a broken leg.

If you have the choice between walking the CP from Lisbon or Porto I would recommend Lisbon. The route between Lisbon and Porto is incredible and very different from the Porto to SdC sections. The combination of the two makes for a great experience of Portugal. Even though I am familiar with the CP I intend to walk Lisbon to SdC to Muxia again.

I would say that the only difficulties of the CP are the Portuguese cobbles and crazy drivers. You will really see that difference after crossing into Spain. Interesting side note: the Portuguese drivers are far more tolerant of cyclists than pedestrians.
 
Hello Laurie...

Me again with my regular spot!!! The Tile Museum 8 kms out of Lisbon is fabulous!!! Right on the Camino. Beautifully laid out, interesting building, the displays thoughtful and include other European countries tile-making input.

The main downside for me was the air traffic noise which one endured for two days.
I started in Lisbon. It is a very different experience to walking the Camino Frances. I didn't do much advance reading so had few expectations except to walk. One big difference is the lower visibility of the church... it is there of course, but not as involved with pilgrims or the Camino as on the Frances. Many churches were closed, there was very few pilgrim masses. I also liked Coimbra and Tomar, and also Santaram and Azinhaga. I highly recommend a rest day in Coimbra, so much to see there. Another difference is way fewer pilgrims until Porto. I met two people the first day out of Lisbon, and in first week or so I often had the path to myself. I really liked the solitude and the time to be with myself. The number of pilgrims picks up in Tomar, because Fatima is near and some go to Fatima and then bus to Tomar to start the Camino. The Portuguese people are wonderful. I had warm welcomes everywhere.. people calling from their garden to ask if I'd like some water or food. There is fewer albergues but many 'hostals' - catering to all kinds of travellers including pilgrims. There appears to be no pack service until Porto so don't carry too much :) Stay safe everyone
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
If I were to do it again, I would probably start in Tomar - the first couple of days out of Lisbon, while interesting in their own right, didn't inspire me enough to wan to do it again. The way became more interesting and uplifting from around Tomar and this continued to Porto.
I totally agree that if I did it again I would start in Tomar where I would spent the whole day before starting ----touring the Templar Castle there.

I walked in February and encountered just two other pilgrims the entire 375 km ( a couple from France) from Lisbon to Porto. Plus one Polish guy walking it backwards. Encountered nobody going to Fatima.
I relished the great silence and the extreme solitude - really was able to focus on my Chi Walking.
The cobblestones aren't bad if you walk along the edges of the roads.

I enjoyed my Portuguese Camino more than the first French Route journey since the walking was much flatter, the food was way better (particularly the seafood), the language more lyrical and I found the Portuguese people to be very warm and friendly.

Coimbre was awesome - everything is so centered in a small area. Loved the all-male nine piece Fado band from the University playing in the streets.

Adega Tipica in Ansiao-- had an amazing restaurant and a superb little comfortable pension. One of the top places to stay on any of my 100 Camino days/nights.

Roast Suckling Pig in Mealhada was the single best meal on all my Caminos (Tres Pinheiros).

And Agueda was an up and coming "modern" town - with great pizza! There was a real vibrancy in that town. Nice modern hotel with great breakfast buffet is Conde d'Agueda.

I would have spent 3-4 days in Lisbon instead of walking the entire route and then take the train to Tomar where I would have started if given the chance to do it differently.
 
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Our latest podcast episode is about whether to start the CP in Lisbon. My short answer is yes!

A few things I liked in particular about Lisbon-Porto that we talk about in detail in the episode:

- Historic cities of Santarém, Tomar and Coimbra (even though we had already been to the latter two)
- The trail between Tomar and Coimbra especially
- Gaining a deeper understanding of Portugal
- Places that had the 'spirit of the camino' (fewer and further between than on some other caminos, but all the more special because of that)
- Figs!

There's plenty more that we didn't mention but in general I echo many of the thoughts upthread. A lot of my favourite memories from this camino come from the Lisbon-Porto stretch.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
I spent three days visiting Lisbon and Sintra as a tourist, then a full day each in Coimbra and Tomar...all are not to be missed! I officially started my camino as a pilgrim in Porto. All of these posts are giving me pause to rethink possibly starting from Lisbon another time if the vaccine proves to be a success...even if a bit further down on my bucket list. I may have to do two caminos a year when I finally get let out of "jail" in the US.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Hey, Nick! I think you considered walking the Fisherman's Trail, which I did in April 2019...any plans for it going forward? I loved it...you would too!
 
Hey, Nick! I think you considered walking the Fisherman's Trail, which I did in April 2019...any plans for it going forward? I loved it...you would too!
Yes, definitely considering it, especially in COVID times when domestic travel is preferable (though not right now during our state of emergency). It could be an option for Feb/March next year depending on how things play out. Training for the Mozárabe-VdlP! 🤣
 
I loved the CP from Lisbon to porto. The cobbles are killing {walking into Porto I was singing away 'I hate cobblestones in the morning' - I know they are actually setts but that didn't fit the tune)
I enjoyed the smaller number of pilgrims which often meant a warmer welcome. But enough pilgrims that you had company. Most of the albergues were good.
Yes there is some road walking but I always felt it was balanced out by some lovely sections, the river and interesting towns. I think the only day I found ugh was walking into Porto but even then there was a steep climb up a roman road in woods.
It gave me more time to eat pastel de nata! And the food was good. Much more variety than what has become the standard pilgrim menu on CF and generally higher quality and cheaper
And to be honest I didn't expect a significant welcome at Lisbon cathedral. SJPdP is very different as it now deals with vast numbers of pilgrims. Then again I don't recall a significant pilgrim welcome in porto cathedral either!
I think that even since I walked 2-3 years ago more albergues have opened to address some of the long sections. Some of these longer distances did discourage but I don't think they are really an issue any longer such
My least welcoming experience was the Saint Jacob church in Brussels. Having walked from Haarlem and just had a wonderful evening in Grimburgen Abbey the last thing I expected was the nonchalance of the "official".

I know I'm probably an oddity, but I really very rarely go into Church's, Cathedrals etc these days as I feel I'm following tourists who walk too slowly and definitely "perambulate"...
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I’ve been reading the forum posts for more than a decade, and I think it’s safe to say that the route that gets the most disagreement is the Portugues starting in Lisbon. So much so that the owner of one of the albergues along the way recorded several videos with pilgrim opinions.


I walked this route about ten years ago, well before there were any albergues at all. Since the Via Lusitana (a camino group based in Lisbon) has made its appearance, they have done a lot to improve markings, get the route off the road, and incentivize albergues (they even operate one themselves, in Alpriate, 21 km from the Lisbon cathedral). They also produce their own, very nice, credencial, which you can get at the Lisbon cathedral. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/portuguese-credential-has-arrived.60265/

For those who are debating whether to start in Lisbon or Porto, would veterans care to chime in here with their opinions?

I can start by throwing out a few pros and cons. I was inspired to do this by some comments on a recent thread.

Pros
— for me, the longer the camino, the better!
— towns of Tomar, Coimbra, Roman Ruins of Condeixa a Nova
— the Portuguese people
— fresh honest food
— lower cost than Spain
— the albergue in Alpriate, kind of like the Orisson of the Portugues. A place for pilgrims to start to get to know each other.
— route out of Lisbon from the cathedral goes through old town, old port, lovely Expo site along the river

Cons
— road walking (though I cannot imagine there is more road walking between Lisbon and Porto than on the official Norte route)
—very little elevation gain (though for some that may be a pro)
— no pilgrim office in Lisbon, indifferent treatment by the cathedral (I just read this on a recent post, and it is true, but I’m not sure that distinguishes this route from any other camino, except maybe SJPP with its pilgrim office).
— pleasant, but not spectacular scenery

I’m sure there are many more, but this is a start. Bom caminho, Laurie
I found the Sè in Lisbon to be very un-interested...
 
Noting again: I could not go to Portugal without spending some time in Lisbon! Wonderful city with so many things to see. And it is the place from which those brave guys sailed who then “discovered” this continent. But I am in love with Portugal.....
 
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From all five of the caminhos I walked, starting in Lisbon was the best
we -my wife and I - enjoyed it very much .
I also walked three times from Porto but starting in Lisbon was improvising and staying at fantastic places which will be staying for allways in my memory. It took us 34 day to get in Santiago from there with some restdays in Tomar and Coimbra
 
Having been in Lisbon before, including living there for a year, I couldn't think of going to Portugal without spending some time back there before heading north . So much to see and do, music, museums, the waterfront with the statue of the "Discoverers", the market in Campo de Ourique..... There's an express train to Porto if one doesn't want to walk that stretch.
 
We fly into Lisbon in 3 days time from Istanbul to start walking on the 1st of June and looking at accommodation prices is frightening compared to Turkey. I'm now considering starting us further out along the CP but have a question about picking up credentials outside of Lisbon. Can anyone suggest albergues or churches further along that carry them (I'm happy to collect sellos on a sheet of paper till then if necessary). I know some knowledgeable pilgrim out there has the answer to my query.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
We fly into Lisbon in 3 days time from Istanbul to start walking on the 1st of June and looking at accommodation prices is frightening compared to Turkey. I'm now considering starting us further out along the CP but have a question about picking up credentials outside of Lisbon. Can anyone suggest albergues or churches further along that carry them (I'm happy to collect sellos on a sheet of paper till then if necessary). I know some knowledgeable pilgrim out there has the answer to my query.
From this page


It states that the credential is available in Santarém, at the Diocesan Museum at the Santarém Cathedral. That's only a few days out of Lisboa.

As for the prices in Lisboa, it IS high season and it IS an incredibly popular tourist spot. That being said, there are a lot of less-tourist-oriented accommodations in the city that are less pricey as well. What were you hoping to pay? It would be a shame to miss seeing Lisboa, an incredible city!
 
We fly into Lisbon in 3 days time from Istanbul to start walking on the 1st of June and looking at accommodation prices is frightening compared to Turkey. I'm now considering starting us further out along the CP but have a question about picking up credentials outside of Lisbon. Can anyone suggest albergues or churches further along that carry them (I'm happy to collect sellos on a sheet of paper till then if necessary). I know some knowledgeable pilgrim out there has the answer to my query.
Since you are going to spend some time in Lisbon (at least that’s what I’m inferring from your dates), I would just go either to Igreja dos Mártires in Chiado or the Cathedral. Both sell the really lovely credentials designed by Via Lusitana!
 
From this page


It states that the credential is available in Santarém, at the Diocesan Museum at the Santarém Cathedral. That's only a few days out of Lisboa.

As for the prices in Lisboa, it IS high season and it IS an incredibly popular tourist spot. That being said, there are a lot of less-tourist-oriented accommodations in the city that are less pricey as well. What were you hoping to pay? It would be a shame to miss seeing Lisboa, an incredible city!
 
New Original Camino Gear Designed Especially with The Modern Peregrino In Mind!
Thank you so much guys, that's what I hoped. We spent quite a bit of time in Lisbon, and Portugal in general after one of our caminos so I won't feel so bad if we head out a bit further on. We are meeting up in Porto with our Quebec Camino family we met on the CF in 2017 and our daughter is flying in from Sydney while she's on Uni holidays (yep, it's been that long!) and we'll all walk to Santiago and back to Porto. I'm so happy to be back on the Camino!!!!!!
 
Thank you so much guys, that's what I hoped. We spent quite a bit of time in Lisbon, and Portugal in general after one of our caminos so I won't feel so bad if we head out a bit further on. We are meeting up in Porto with our Quebec Camino family we met on the CF in 2017 and our daughter is flying in from Sydney while she's on Uni holidays (yep, it's been that long!) and we'll all walk to Santiago and back to Porto. I'm so happy to be back on the Camino!!!!!!
Just be warned that any of the bigger places like Tomar and Coimbra are likely to be fairly pricey in June since you're getting into prime tourist season. Staying in the smaller towns is probably more friendly to your caminho budget.
 
Again, a bit of a side issue since you've sorted out the credencial question, but on the separate issue of pricey accommodations:

Here's a couple of non-standard sites that might give you more less-expensive options, across Portugal.

They've been useful to us, in the past, and include a fair number of places that don't get involved with the whole booking.com arrangement.


 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I have walked the CP from Porto to SdC twice and bicycled Lisbon to SdC once. The bicycle was used in lieu of walking due to recovering from a broken leg.

If you have the choice between walking the CP from Lisbon or Porto I would recommend Lisbon. The route between Lisbon and Porto is incredible and very different from the Porto to SdC sections. The combination of the two makes for a great experience of Portugal. Even though I am familiar with the CP I intend to walk Lisbon to SdC to Muxia again.

I would say that the only difficulties of the CP are the Portuguese cobbles and crazy drivers. You will really see that difference after crossing into Spain. Interesting side note: the Portuguese drivers are far more tolerant of cyclists than pedestrians.
Hi, my husband has just broken his arm, so it looks like he has to take the train and I will cycle alone from Lisbon to Porto. We plan on meet-ups every 2 days in the towns along the aCamino that are served by trains. I’m an experienced cyclist, but I wonder if you have any advice for me ? In October am I likely to meet many other pilgrims walking or cycling? Any particularly tough sections ? I was led to believe it was hilly, but it seems there are many road sections and its a flat route ? Thank you if you respond or other do.
 
Hi, my husband has just broken his arm, so it looks like he has to take the train and I will cycle alone from Lisbon to Porto. We plan on meet-ups every 2 days in the towns along the aCamino that are served by trains. I’m an experienced cyclist, but I wonder if you have any advice for me ? In October am I likely to meet many other pilgrims walking or cycling? Any particularly tough sections ? I was led to believe it was hilly, but it seems there are many road sections and its a flat route ? Thank you if you respond or other do.
In the southern part, Santarém and Tomar are probably good choices. Both are a reasonable size with a variety of choices of accommodation, and for you "en bike," a couple of days apart. Between them, the route diverges from the railway so they wouldn't be great choices. Tomar is actually on a spur rather than the north-south Lisboa/Porto line, so he will have to backtrack an hour or so on the train to Entroncamento, and transfer onto a different line to head further north past Tomar, but not a big deal.

Bom caminho!
 
Hi, my husband has just broken his arm, so it looks like he has to take the train and I will cycle alone from Lisbon to Porto. We plan on meet-ups every 2 days in the towns along the aCamino that are served by trains. I’m an experienced cyclist, but I wonder if you have any advice for me ? In October am I likely to meet many other pilgrims walking or cycling? Any particularly tough sections ? I was led to believe it was hilly, but it seems there are many road sections and its a flat route ? Thank you if you respond or other do.
Riding from Lisbon to Porto in October will be really nice. I went in Sept of 2016 and we encountered very few people and no one else on bicycles until we got to Porto. There were no particularly tough sections. There are climbs but nothing that bothered me a bit and I was carrying about 25 pounds, so my bike probably weighed 50 to 60 pounds. I thought the climbing was nice and never that long. The first day, between Lisbon and Santarem, you will ride through some farms and it could get muddy for some stretches. Other than that we were on the road most of the time. The road was good but in some remote hilly sections it is narrow so you have to be aware and stick to the shoulder.

I feel that it is a lot safer to cycle in Portugal than the USA. The Portuguese are aggressive drivers but I believe they are sympathetic to cyclists. Eye contact and hand signals with the drivers was very effective in cities and rotary circle situations. By the time I got to Porto my city riding skills were much better than when I left Lisbon. I could get around the city with a lot more speed and less disruption to traffic.

Let me know if you have any other questions and enjoy your tour, make sure you have good flashing lights
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

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I’ve been reading the forum posts for more than a decade, and I think it’s safe to say that the route that gets the most disagreement is the Portugues starting in Lisbon. So much so that the owner of one of the albergues along the way recorded several videos with pilgrim opinions.


I walked this route about ten years ago, well before there were any albergues at all. Since the Via Lusitana (a camino group based in Lisbon) has made its appearance, they have done a lot to improve markings, get the route off the road, and incentivize albergues (they even operate one themselves, in Alpriate, 21 km from the Lisbon cathedral). They also produce their own, very nice, credencial, which you can get at the Lisbon cathedral. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/portuguese-credential-has-arrived.60265/

For those who are debating whether to start in Lisbon or Porto, would veterans care to chime in here with their opinions?

I can start by throwing out a few pros and cons. I was inspired to do this by some comments on a recent thread.

Pros
— for me, the longer the camino, the better!
— towns of Tomar, Coimbra, Roman Ruins of Condeixa a Nova
— the Portuguese people
— fresh honest food
— lower cost than Spain
— the albergue in Alpriate, kind of like the Orisson of the Portugues. A place for pilgrims to start to get to know each other.
— route out of Lisbon from the cathedral goes through old town, old port, lovely Expo site along the river

Cons
— road walking (though I cannot imagine there is more road walking between Lisbon and Porto than on the official Norte route)
—very little elevation gain (though for some that may be a pro)
— no pilgrim office in Lisbon, indifferent treatment by the cathedral (I just read this on a recent post, and it is true, but I’m not sure that distinguishes this route from any other camino, except maybe SJPP with its pilgrim office).
— pleasant, but not spectacular scenery

I’m sure there are many more, but this is a start. Bom caminho, Laurie
This really helped me. I was always planning on flying into Lisbon, looking around for a day or two, taking train into Coimbra and looking around, and then start my Camino from Porto. I have not purchased air tickets yet but now after reading and agreeing with your Pros of #s 1, 2, 6 and 7, I will start in Lisbon. Especially your #1 reason really resonated with me.
 
Especially your #1 reason really resonated with me.
Can I add another reason to the excellent list of Peregrina2000?

By the time you reach Porto, your body will be absolutely Camino fit! Those first few days of walking any Camino are, I find, difficult because it takes the body a few days to adjust. You'll likely get a pain or two here and there and maybe the "grumps" with your walking partner if you are not walking alone. :) After a few days though, you'll most likely be in top shape and feel you can Camino forever!

On the way out of Lisbon you'll see the old Expo 1998 site and the tile museum. A good place for morning tea.

And some nice bridges!

Buen Camino.
 
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I was thinking the very same thing, Walton about being fit by the time I reach Porto. Thank you both for helping me to make a decision regarding Lisbon and starting the walk. I really appreciate the comments from both you and Peregrina2000.
 
Enjoy your Camino! I also just finished walking from Lisbon and it was amazing. Sure the Roman Roads and cobblestones eat feet :) I loved more of the solitude from Lisbon to Porto, and like others have said amazing friendly people, great food that was cheap (especially if you eat where the locals do and also the supermarkets like Pingo Doce always had pretty good food in their cafeterias that was very affordable). Actually received very warm welcomes in churches in the small towns and the priests were always willing to talk and provide a stamp (stamps were not always out in the open), especially after mass. We were just walking by one church in a village and the priest came out and opened the church for us and told us some history. I would do that route again.
 
Enjoy your Camino! I also just finished walking from Lisbon and it was amazing. Sure the Roman Roads and cobblestones eat feet :) I loved more of the solitude from Lisbon to Porto, and like others have said amazing friendly people, great food that was cheap (especially if you eat where the locals do and also the supermarkets like Pingo Doce always had pretty good food in their cafeterias that was very affordable). Actually received very warm welcomes in churches in the small towns and the priests were always willing to talk and provide a stamp (stamps were not always out in the open), especially after mass. We were just walking by one church in a village and the priest came out and opened the church for us and told us some history. I would do that route again.
Thank you for the pep talk. I am so happy that I found this thread and that people are validating, confirming, encouraging and helping in my decision.
 
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One heads up is that the route from Lisbon will be re-routed to follow a boardwalk along the Tejo. This has been in the works for several years.


This means that Alpriate and its albergue will not be on the caminho, so there are plans to close it.

I don’t have a definite announcement but have heard from the horse’s mouth that it will be closing.
Thank you. If any updates before March 23rd, it will be much appreciated!
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Enjoy your Camino! I also just finished walking from Lisbon and it was amazing. Sure the Roman Roads and cobblestones eat feet :) I loved more of the solitude from Lisbon to Porto, and like others have said amazing friendly people, great food that was cheap (especially if you eat where the locals do and also the supermarkets like Pingo Doce always had pretty good food in their cafeterias that was very affordable). Actually received very warm welcomes in churches in the small towns and the priests were always willing to talk and provide a stamp (stamps were not always out in the open), especially after mass. We were just walking by one church in a village and the priest came out and opened the church for us and told us some history. I would do that route again.
Hi Samos.
You say you just finishe walking from Lisbon. When did you walk? Maybe november?
Caroline.
 
Just remembered something...we spent a rest day in Tomar and stopped by the tourist office for a stamp and a bit of information. Well, we spoke with one of the ladies there as we wanted to get the bus to see Fatima. Turns out she arranged for us to have a private taxi with a trip to Fatima and back past the aqueducts...it was amazing. The driver spoke English and was from Fatima so he gave us plenty of history and took us pass some interesting non-touristy stuff too. He just parked in Fatima and left us to see whatever we wanted, and then met us back in the parking lot. While he picked us up at the tourist office, he was gracious enough to drop us off at the monastery which was much appreciated as we wanted to see it, but the feet and legs needed a day off from hills :) It was like 50-60 euro total for all 3 of us, which was a bit of a splurge, but the sights we got to see and the history without being rushed was well worth it.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I liked Tomar but the cobblestones - not the asphalt - destroyed my feet. For some reason, I wasn’t crazy about Coimbra. Only started really enjoying the Caminho Portugues walking along the river out of sports. The albergues for the most part out of Lisboa were spacious, modern and really great. Very few walkers along the way, but that is the case with many trails, and was not a deal breaker for me.
Sports = Porto
 
Dear Laurie and All
A wee 'chime in' here - a peregrina from Lisboa to SdC - May 2014 (before those spiffy boardwalks appeared)
It's perhaps a 'fruitless' debate if one would look for a 'winner'.
In my experience of life in general and Portuguese Caminho in particular - much has to do with ones intention/s, preferences/biases, perception/s and attitude/s.
I for one LOVED the Portuguese caminho for what it is and how it shaped me (aka the echoes of this pilgrimage are still with me and reverberate).

Considering starting in Porto was never an issue - it was to start at Lisboa. Period. I wanted to 'swim/bathe' in the country/atmosphere, not just having a toe-dip.
That's just my preference.

For e.g. some prefer to just celebrate Christmas-season On Dec 24 and 25th - and on the 26th, the tree will be de-decorated and is out the door presto.
I for one start with 1.Advent Sunday, Samichlaus (Dec 6th), etc and conclude with Epiphany, Jan 6th.
It's a peaceful, in-drawn time, not much boisterousness, but lots of candles, Panetone, Stollen, some gifts, etc.
That's just what rings my chimes. Who's to say that the chimes rung on just Dec 24 and 25th would be any less enjoyable/meaningful?

So --- Sure - the cobblestones are bloody murder - but somehow there became part of it too. And as i knew of them prior to the pilgrimage (due to multiple prior Portugal sojourns) - I prepared w/ good footwear and insoles (Montrail, as i recall. Even had a spare-set of silicone insoles)
The complaint of much road-walking i never understood. I walked many a mile through fab countryside, fields, forests, etc.
I encountered a woman who lamented the drag from Azambuja to Santarem along the busy roads. Which had me puzzled - as I had walked the same points (from A to S) but through lovely countryside and encountered the most spectacular poppy fields i had ever seen in my life.
Turns out - she had mis-read the map.
Of course - laments then would amount to: "PC has lots of road-walking" and not the less flattering, but more honest: "I am too bloody daft to read a map properly".

Am not aiming to convince anyone to do or not do XYZ.
everything has light and shadow sides, that's just the nature of life on this planet.
I just don't go along with statements or claims that a "one course meal" equals a "five course meal", or a 'three course meal of chinese food'' is the same as a 'three course meal of persian food" - as an example.
The experience is different - but if and when anyone is happy with a one course meal - who am I do debate or discuss that choice?
If the PC from Porto is the ticket for you - go right ahead.
wherever you start walking from - I wish you a blessed pilgrimage -
to me the caminho was especially precious when i realised that the Way walked me ... instead of the 'me' walking the Way.

(and as an aside - i am aiming for living less on the 'comparative mode' - when everything is measured, compared, quantified - and live with life as it is, presenting itself now and here wherever i might live, sit, walk, pilgrim, write. )

saluti, C
Oh yes to less comparisons/judgements. Here, and in daily life. I've followed Camino Frances and Caminho Portuguese and lots of other travel by car, train, plane, and sailboat. Feel my life has been made so rich through all the things I've seen, experienced, people I've met... "Viva la difference" might be my motto.......... And of course the Caminos are a very special kind of walk.
 
First week of August there will be works at the Parque das Naçoes and both caminhos to Fátima and Santiago are closed and there are no alternatives so the only possibility is to skip the part from Lisbon to Sacavém or even further.
there is a Youth Festival that will be attended by the Pope.

this was the message I got from a Portuguese friend.

É a seguir ao Parque das Nações, depois de passar por baixo da ponte. Estão a fazer as obras para as jornadas mundiais da juventude que vão ocorrer na primeira semana de Agosto. É para a vinda do Papa Francisco. A partir desta data já estará aberta e a ponte sobre o rio Trancão e a inauguração do novo trajeto do caminho através dos passadiços do rio Tejo.



It's after Parque das Nações, after going underneath the bridge. They are carrying out works for the World Youth Days that will take place in the first week of August. It is for the coming of Pope Francis. From that date onwards, the bridge over the Trancão River and the inauguration of the new path along the footbridges of the Tagus River will be open.

 
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First week of August there will be works at the Parque das Naçoes and both caminhos to Fátima and Santiago are closed and there are no alternatives so the only possibility is to skip the part from Lisbon to Sacavém or even further.
there is a Youth Festival that will be attended by the Pope.
When I look at a Google map, it would be easy enough to continue along the divided, Alameda dos Oceanos, instead of turning toward the Rio Tejo, and keep heading northward as it becomes the Via do Oriente, and meet up at the Caminho, under the bridge of the A30. I drew this alternative on this map, for anyone walking during the closure, in June or July of 2023. The alternative is in orange, the route now in blue and in red, the future route that you describe on the bridge across the Rio Trancão.
 

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When I look at a Google map, it would be easy enough to continue along the divided, Alameda dos Oceanos, instead of turning toward the Rio Tejo, and keep heading northward as it becomes the Via do Oriente, and meet up at the Caminho, under the bridge of the A30. I drew this alternative on this map, for anyone walking during the closure, in June or July of 2023. The alternative is in orange, the route now in blue and in red, the future route that you describe on the bridge across the Rio Trancão.
 
Caminho de Santiago e Fátima, continua fechado sem alternativas ou informação para peregrinos, POR CAUSA DA OBRAS DA JMJ. David da Irlanda.

Camino de Santiago and Fátima, remains closed without alternatives or information for pilgrims, BECAUSE OF WYD WORKS. David from Ireland.

I got this information from somebody from Vialusitana , the Pilgrimsorganisation in Portugal.

on Instagram are more videos as mentioned above with the same information
 
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Caminho de Santiago e Fátima, continua fechado sem alternativas ou informação para peregrinos, POR CAUSA DA OBRAS DA JMJ. David da Irlanda.

Camino de Santiago and Fátima, remains closed without alternatives or information for pilgrims, BECAUSE OF WYD WORKS. David from Ireland.
This seems unlikely. The new-route start in Lisboa, particularly around the new bridge north of the Plaza of Nations, is likely closed, and Fatima is probably even busier than usual, but there is no way for them to "close the caminho." Plan your start accordingly, if it's in the next week or so.
 
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Very interesting thread everyone, I've read all your comments eagerly as I'm hoping for a November Portuguese Camino and was trying to decide if I should start in Lisbon.
 
We want to start from Aveiro, Portugal next September. I am assuming about three days to reach Porto. From there we will walk the inland route to Santiago. Are there any hiking trails to follow rather than just highway to reach Porto from Aveiro? Help wanted.
 
This is actually one of the more industrialized bits of Portugal--it's flat, and because it's close to Porto, somewhat of a distribution hub. Aveiro is actually the south hub of the Porto municipal-train system; the areas between there and Porto are considered suburban to Porto.

You might be best hiking near the coast, rather than through the inland part. Pleasanter surroundings!
 
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We want to start from Aveiro, Portugal next September. I am assuming about three days to reach Porto. From there we will walk the inland route to Santiago. Are there any hiking trails to follow rather than just highway to reach Porto from Aveiro? Help wanted.
I am not sure if wikiloc is as popular in Portugal as it is in Spain, but there are several tracks for Aveiro to Porto.

For starters, try this one.

 
We want to start from Aveiro, Portugal next September. I am assuming about three days to reach Porto. From there we will walk the inland route to Santiago. Are there any hiking trails to follow rather than just highway to reach Porto from Aveiro? Help wanted.
You can use the mapy.cz app. It will direct you to the Camino from Aveiro.

Screenshot_20231003_112405_Mapycz.jpg
 

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