Starting from Lisbon next week- few questions

[micbook]

Hi everyone,

I'll be arriving in Lisbon on June 19 and am very much looking forward to walking! I have a couple of questions that were most likely discussed before, but I couldn't find all the answers. If anyone is willing to share from their experience/knowledge, I'd greatly appreciate it

1. What's the best way to get from the airport (Lisbon) to town? If public transportation, does anyone know if it operates at night? I'm arriving at the airport at 10pm, so I'm wondering if there will still be transportation at such hour. How long does it take to get to town from the airport?

2. Does anyone have suggestions in terms of where to stay on my first night in Lisbon? I assume that most albergues will be closed by this hour, but maybe a private hostel? Other suggestions? I also posted a message looking to see if anyone was willing to host a pilgrim for one night, for pay of course, just because of the relatively late hour. If anything is willing/interested, it'll be greatly appreciated

3. I saw previous posts about obtaining a credential at the cathedral. Is this still relevant? Are there any other locations?

I'll start walking around June 20-21 and will update the forum when possible and also my blog (below) so feel free to visit or say hello if we happen to be in the same stage

Many thanks in advance!
Michal
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http://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/tag/camino-de-santiago/

 

[scruffy1]

1. The big yellow airport buses run until 2300 a close call cost 2.50 E check it out at
http://www.golisbon.com/transport/airport-shuttle.html a good site for Lisbon in any case otherwise its a taxi to Rossio

2. Nicest place around and 5 minute walk from Rossio Square is Lisbon Poets Hostel

http://www.lisbonpoetshostel.com/public ... mepage.php

wonderful warm place lovely people and great location.

3. Get your Credencial from the Igreja dos Mártires church office 10-17 open maybe on the weekend very closeby to the hostel on Rue Garret

 

[scruffy1]

Please bring a lot of patience and some sturdy legs, its a long walk out of Lisbon before you can really enjoy the Camino, the countryside starts just before Azambuja which has some lovely churches, not always open. Do walk out to the Portas do Sol fortress park in Santarem, and up to the Convento de Christo Templar and Chapter House (on the hill UNESCO site) in Tomar, both magnificent. After that you are on your own!
Bom Camino
Scruffy

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

..... or, for a small donation, get a credencial from this web site! [See bottom of page]. Enjoy the Camino Portuguese. I did it last year, but only from Porto. Beautiful countryside. I can still hear the sounds of running water from the brooks, and the cuckoo .... and the flipping cockerels waking you up at dawn each morning .....
Stephen

 

[johns]

styed at p galicia not far from catedral 25e 30april then 13 days to porto rained heavey for 7days more road walking than countryside long days if you keep to j brierley guide never again. porto to santiago great one not to go nere pensao castela mealhada bites all over next day one not to miss quinta s miguel de arcos turismo rural 30e wonderfull. john

 

[micbook]

Thanks, everyone! Scruffy, what is the name of the bus stop I need to get off at, is it Rossio?

John, did you not like Brierley's guidebook? Does anyone else have experience/feedback on Brierley's guidebook to the Camino Portugues? I used his guidebook to the Camino Frances last year and loved it.

Many thanks!
Michal
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http://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/tag/camino-de-santiago/

 

[scruffy1]

Rossio is the one, should you decide on Lisbon Poets, there is someone at the front desk 24/7 but contact them through the website and do reserve, they will be waiting for you with a smile.

An alternative guide is online:
http://www.csj.org.uk/CamPortLisbonPorto2009.pdf

put together by Laurie Reynolds her mail is there, she is a wealth of info, lovely person, and she will answer you She also has one from Porto to Santiago but I can't find it, sorry

 

[micbook]

Thanks much! I'll check it out

Michal
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http://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/tag/camino-de-santiago/

 

[johns]

i think john brierley guides are a must but its a tough walk from lisbon to porto in 13 stages on mostly road walking

 

[scruffy1]

micbook!!!

I almost forgot! Try and go down Rua Augusta any day except Sunday around noontime to see the incredible Mr Static levitating man,
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqRn-9soeOI[/youtube]

Sure its a trick but its very convincing and very funny

 

[micbook]

Thanks and greetings from Lisbon!

http://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/tag/camino-de-santiago/

 

[scruffy1]

Glad to here you are there! Euro-cup tomorow evening Portugal vs Czechoslovakia I am not a great football fan but you should try and see at least part of the game in a Portuguese bar packed with ardent supporters - people watching is great fun
Scruffy

 

[micbook]

No worries there...I´m a big sports fan and it´s already on my agenda The streets look great with all the flags and football fans

Michal
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http://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/tag/camino-de-santiago/

 

[peregrina2000]

Can´t wait to hear all about your walk, Michal. Hope the weather treats you well. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[micbook]

Thanks, Laurie! I walked around the Cathedral and Castelo de S. Jorge today and had a good time. It was a bit windy, but hopefully the sun and walk will keep me warm enough

I´m hoping to start writing/posting tomorrow.

Bom Caminho,
Michal
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http://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/tag/camino-de-santiago/

 

[micbook]

Greetings everyone! First couple of days out of Lisbon were tougher on the feet than I thought! Plus, yesterday was 43 degrees and humid!

Highly recommend to stop at the Vasco da Gama expo area if you are walking from Lisbon. Nice area and also ease your way into a not easy stretch. I stayed at the Pousada de Juventude, which is 800 m off route, on Rua de Moscavide. No pilgrim atmosphere, but kind people and 10% discount for pilgrims (14.4€ for the night).

Tonight, it's Portugal vs. Spain...it's electrifying in the streets

Michal
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http://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/tag/camino-de-santiago/

 

[scruffy1]

0-0 and penalty shots!

 

[scruffy1]

43 degrees and Spain just won, not a good time to be in Portugal-and then people ask why do you walk through Portugal in March! Rain may be ignored! Drink a lot of anything my dear mic-heatstroke is no longer a theoretical consideration.

 

[micbook]

I arrived in Porto after a slight change in plans (see http://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/2012/06/30/when-plans-change/ for details).

I thought I'd summarize the things I have seen/experienced on the stretch between Lisbon and Porto, though I didn't walk the entire way.

Overall, I was/am a little disappointed at the path and waymarks. Portugal seems to have such a great potential-- wonderful landscape, great weather, rivers, warm and kind people, well-preserved monuments...yet from Lisbon, the Camino doesn't seem to exist beyond you-- the pilgrim who chooses to walk. I like the solitude and I wasn't expecting the amount of people of the Camino Frances, but for the few days that I have walked, I detected no Camino spirit-- no pilgrim hostels, a lot of highway/road walking (including a couple of dangerous spots on roads with no shoulders!), no pilgrims (I met one pilgrim in over a week who actually had the intention of walking the entire Camino from Lisbon to Santiago, and she also changed her plans in spite of the path) no sign or mark for the Camino with the exception of sporadic waymarks.

There were also a couple of very confusing spots...for example, the Camino is actually going through a train station in Alverca, and then you need to go to the second floor of the station, overpass the rails, get off on the other side and pick up the waymarks from there. Another time where the arrows lead to what seems like a dead-end with a big, closed metal gate at the end of the road...I thought I was going the wrong way and only when I reached the gate, I saw there was an improvised detour around the gate for pilgrims. A lot of walking in/next to industrial areas...and overall, not as inspiring as I would have hoped. Of course, this is just my experience and I hear that later on, the path gets more natural and better, but at a personal level, I didn't feel a Camino spirit...

I did find Tomar to be quite the highlight of the path-- lovely town with an incredible historical jewels including the Templars Castle-- one you can easily get lost in for an entire afternoon. From Tomar, I decided to catch the train, so I don't have first-hand walking experience from that point on. I hear that there's work being done to improve the Camino Portugues, and I sure feel like the stretch from Lisbon can be so lovely and attract many pilgrims and tourists, but at the moment, unfortunately, it doesn't live up to its potential.

I am starting to walk from Porto tomorrow morning, and already feel a sense of the Camino spirit. I also met several other pilgrims around town and in the cathedral.

I would like to emphasize that the above is just my personal impression and experience and I share it in the event it is of value to fellow pilgrims.

Buen Camino,
Michal
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http://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/tag/camino-de-santiago/

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

The camino from Porto to SdC is wonderful. I enjoyed it immensely last year, and the fellow pilgrims I met - well, many of them I am still in touch with!
So keep going, my friend, and I hope the camino is as fulfilling for you, as it was for me!
Buen camino!

Stephen.
http://www.calig.co.uk/camino_de_santiago.htm

 

[micbook]

Thanks, Stephen!

I walked out from Porto today, taking the alternative route along the ocean. BEAUTIFUL! It was everything I was hoping for and more, so I feel very good about it

I am staying in Vila Cha tonight, charming little fishermen village, and will head to Rates tomorrow.

Will update more soon...
Michal

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http://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/tag/camino-de-santiago/

 

[micbook]

Arrived in Rates this evening after staying in Vila Cha last night...

Highly recommend Vila Cha as an overnight stop, if you are taking the alternative route. There's a pension, Residencial Sandra, so you'll pay more than an albergue, but it was so well worth it. Lovely fishermen village with a potential of becoming a fantastic pilgrims town. I got a private room with private porch, with a view to the ocean, and it was the best 30 euros I spent in a long time...not to mention having a hot tub for my feet . Great beaches, multiple cafes, kind people, and charming fishermen scene.

I continued walking along the coast this morning, and decided to walk directly on the beach and sand...it sure slowed me down, but it was lovely...and there was nowhere to hurry

From Vila do Conde to Arcos I came upon only one waymark...that's one yello arrow over 9.8 kilometers! I met a guy who got lost and I kept referring to my guidebook to make sure I was in the right direction, and even then I wasn't sure So, if you're walking the alternative route, keep in mind that the last stretch to Arcos isn't the most trivial and waymarking is poor. From Arcos, there were plenty of arrows....

In Rates, actually met some pilgrims, which was a nice change!

Limited Internet, so hoping to update the blog with more info in the next couple of days.

Buen Camino!
Michal

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http://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/tag/camino-de-santiago/

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Michal,

I´m sorry that the Caminho from Lisboa wasn´t what you were hoping for, and I´m sure your comments will be helpful to others who are thinking about this route. I have walked it, never met another pilgrim, and realize that it´s not for everybody. Since I regularly walk solitary caminos, this aspect of Lisboa - Porto didn´t bother me, but I agree it would be nice to have some company now and then. The numbers of peregrinos are shooting up, but since there are so few to begin with, even a tripling in one year won´t mean that you´ll be likely to see many other peregrinos. I have been surprised, though, to see that the albergue in Mealhada posts pictures almost every day of the pilgrims who have stopped for the night. So maybe the snowball effect will take over soon.

I agree that there is a LOT of asphalt, but I know that the Vialusitana is making heroic efforts to bring the Caminho off-road. This takes time and is complicated, but this is not a group fo shy away from a challenge. So stay tuned for more improvements!

There is a growing number of albergues between Lisboa and Porto, in fact 3 have opened this year. Johnnie Walker and I are going to issue a revision of the online CSJ guide as soon as we have some time to reflect that increase, but as son as I am back home with some time I will post an updated list.

I hope the rest of your Caminho from Porto is better for you. I know that Johnnie Walker just recently walked the coastal route and thought it was stunning. Bom caminho, keep us posted on how the rest of the caminho goes for you -- Laurie

 

[micbook]

Greetings from Ponte de Lima!

Laurie, thanks for the note and additional information. Yes, I know there´s massive work and help going on in getting the Camino Portugues to where it can potentially be. If anything, my time so far only made it clear, how much potential The Way in Portugal has. And whereas I prefer and cherish the solitude walk myself, there were multiple things missing for me in the stretch from Lisbon. If/when the roads are better, I can totally see what a great walk this could be (again, for me, personally). My entry wasn´t in anyway suggesting to take anything away from the great effort that has been invested by the good friends of the Camino to make it what it has become so far.

Taking a day of rest tomorrow, so I will write more. Ponte de Lima is beautiful!

Buen Camino!
Michal

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http://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/tag/camino-de-santiago/

 

[micbook]

Just arrived in Caldas de Reis today and boy, fonte Caldas felt so good If/when you arrive in town, the hot-water font is an unforgettable experience

Spent the day yesterday in Pontevedra and really enjoyed town.

With Santiago being less than 50 kilometers away, the path gets busier with pilgrims and the albergues are getting full. Very little Internet along the way, with the exception of wifi, so I'm keeping my posts short and will post more and add pictures as soon as I get a chance.

Buen Camino!
Michal
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http://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/tag/camino-de-santiago/

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Michal, sounds like things are really going well. I look forward to hearing more of the details, especially about the coastal route and how you found it.

Just in case you'd be interested, did you know there is an albergue about 3 kms off the Camino in Herbon (near Padron)? I have a friend who spends two weeks there every year as a hospitalera and she says it is an absolutely wonderful place. One of those communal places with a lot of spirit.

The albergue is in the Monasterio FRanciscano de Herbon and there are 22 beds.
It's run by the Gallego Association of Friends of the Camino.

http://www.amigosdelcamino.com/index.ph ... cias-agacs

Enjoy the last few kms! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[micbook]

Thanks, Laurie! It was pouring rain all day from Caldas...finally Galicia showed itself as I remembered!

I decided to keep walking, though many pilgrims slowed down or stopped, as the rain simply wouldn't stop. There was virtually nobody along the path in the afternoon.

I was hoping to meet a friend in Teo so I skipped Herbon and spent the night in Teo-- quiet, and peaceful. I heard great things about the place in Herbon and would love to stay there next time, as it sounded like a wonderful experience. I did get some info from a fellow pilgrim about the albergue in Herbon so when I post more, I will be sure to include it for anyone interested.

Santiago...and then Finisterre and Muxia

Buen Camino!
Michal
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http://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/tag/camino-de-santiago/

 

[meenas]

you sound very close to Santiago de Compostela - have enjoyed reading your thoughts about the Portuguese Way - my sisters and I walk in September-October and are ridiculously excited. For me, it's my third Camino (the previous two were from Roncesvalles and St Jean Pied de Port respectively), so I've appreciated your posts. Buen Camino!

 

[micbook]

Thanks for the note- yes, I saw your comment on the blog, and actually look forward to responding and sharing in greater detail...I feel I keep playing catching up, but at least I just posted something, and will keep them coming

Arrived in Santiago, and started walking to Finisterre today. I plan on being back on the 24th, just on time for all the festivities and events, and will stay in town (Santiago) for 2-3 days.

Your upcoming journey sounds exciting and I trust it will bring forth a lot of goodness.

More soon, and for now...a very Buen Camino
Michal
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http://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/tag/camino-de-santiago/

 

[micbook]

New post and few pictures from the stage leading to Ponte de Lima...it was a beautiful path and day!

http://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/2012/07/22/seeds-of-kindness/

Buen Camino!
Michal
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http://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/tag/camino-de-santiago/

 

[micbook]

New post from a day of rest in Ponte de Lima + some pictures:

http://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/2012/07/29/keep-on-walking/

I didn´t realize the town was actually a (relatively) popular starting point, so there were more pilgrims joining the path.

Michal
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http://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/tag/camino-de-santiago/

 

[micbook]

A post about crossing the international border between Portugal and Spain...Viva España!

https://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/2012/08/04/in-the-land-of-possibilities/

Buen Camino!
Michal
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https://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/tag/camino-de-santiago/

 

[micbook]

An unusual encounter and experience planted the seed for this different kind of post from Pontevedra...

https://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/2012/08/12/changing-my-history/

Buen Camino!
Michal
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https://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/tag/camino-de-santiago/

 

[micbook]

A post on walking from Caldas de Reis to Teo in crazy rain...
https://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/2012/08/23/when-the-rain-came/

Teo was nice and quiet. Spending the night there made it a short day to Santiago the following day, which was nice. Giving you a chance to take your time and...*arrive*

Buen Camino!
Michal
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http://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/tag/camino-de-santiago/

 

[micbook]

Hi everyone,

It took a long time and I'm finally catching up with writing and updating. Here's my "arriving in Santiago" post-

https://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/2012/11/11/a-sign-and-a-reminder/

I'll post pictures and summary of my Camino Portugues over the next week or so.

Already can't wait to be walking again...

Buen Camino,
Michal
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https://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/

 

[micbook]

Just uploaded some pictures from my Camino Portugues this summer, Porto to Santiago...

https://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/2012/11/18/camino-portugues-in-pictures/

Michal
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https://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/