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LIVE from the Camino Starting in Avila the 10th of September

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#1
Hola everybody !
I walked in March from Valencia to Avila on the Camino de Levante, I will resume in the next few days walking on a small part of Sureste to Tordesillas, transition to Madrid in Castromonte and from there to Santiago via Sahagun - Leon - Oviedo - Santiago.
Buen Camino.
SAM_8057.JPG
 

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KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#3
Hola everybody !
I walked in March from Valencia to Avila on the Camino de Levante, I will resume in the next few days walking on a small part of Sureste to Tordesillas, transition to Madrid in Castromonte and from there to Santiago via Sahagun - Leon - Oviedo - Santiago.
Buen Camino.
View attachment 36102
Hola, Brandy,
Is there a special reason to go to Castromonte? There are few towns/villages closer than Castromonte (Puente Duero, Simancas, Cigunuela, Wamba, Penaflor de Hornija).
There is also marked path called Ruta/Senda del Duero and it connects Tordesillas and Simancas (https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=4587107). It's 25km long and you can go further to Cigunuela (albergue) the same day.

Anyway Buen Camino!
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#4
Hallo Laurie, it is nice to hear from you.
Yes I will go to Castromonte and visit Bar Caribe, and say hallo to Sr Martin. I'm planning to spend a night in Castromonte so if the food is decent I may even have dinner in the same bar.
Buen Camino.
Brandy
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#5
Hallo Laurie, it is nice to hear from you.
Yes I will go to Castromonte and visit Bar Caribe, and say hallo to Sr Martin. I'm planning to spend a night in Castromonte so if the food is decent I may even have dinner in the same bar.
Buen Camino.
Brandy
As I know Sr.Martin and his wife don't prepare food anymore. Better stock up and cook yourself a dinner. Kitchen in Castromonte albergue is fully equipped.
 

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Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#6
Dear Kinkyone. What can I say...
My plane departs Santiago the 6th of October. Make it to Santiago and then to Muxia Finisterre, I don't have to many choices.
I may have two o three days to play with and I'd like to use them in the mountains (Salvador and Primitivo).
Thanks for the advice anyway.
Buen Camino
Brandy
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#7
Day 0
Pretty uneventful day the transfer from Verona to Avila. Of course there were late flights, missed trains but thats normal on a Sunday in summer. So by 8 I maid it to Avila . More surprising was the fact that the walking poles I left there in march with the promise to come back in September, ( I went to the same hostal) , were no were to be found.
They found them by 10 the day after.
So all is ok now.
Brandy
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#8
Day 1
Avila Gotarrendura.
Very nice day temp 23 24 light winds.
The whole track was very nicely marked. The first 4 km were on asphalt but after that it turn in a very nice walk on countryside away from the caretera. There were occasionally seats where you can rest.
I think this is because the marked camino ( which is Sureste, not Levante) coincides with the Camino Teresiano. We are in fact in Teresa d'Avila country.
I confirm a bar at the entrance of the village in Cardenosa with very friendly staff.
Amazing albergue in Gotarrendura.
No pilgrims met.

Buen Camino
Brandy
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#9
Day 1
Avila Gotarrendura.
Very nice day temp 23 24 light winds.
The whole track was very nicely marked. The first 4 km were on asphalt but after that it turn in a very nice walk on countryside away from the caretera. There were occasionally seats where you can rest.
I think this is because the marked camino ( which is Sureste, not Levante) coincides with the Camino Teresiano. We are in fact in Teresa d'Avila country.
I confirm a bar at the entrance of the village in Cardenosa with very friendly staff.
Amazing albergue in Gotarrendura.
No pilgrims met.

Buen Camino
Brandy
Hola, Brandy,

Avila - Gotarrendura is indeed very nice walk. I'm almost sure that Teresiano and Levante (possibly Sureste as well) overlapse on this stage. My Levante guide in 2015 explained the route exactly the same as for Teresiano and it is marked even more than some CF stages. I have found it almost unbelievably good marked for Levante :)

Ultreia!
 
#10
Day 1
Avila Gotarrendura.
Very nice day temp 23 24 light winds.
The whole track was very nicely marked. The first 4 km were on asphalt but after that it turn in a very nice walk on countryside away from the caretera. There were occasionally seats where you can rest.
I think this is because the marked camino ( which is Sureste, not Levante) coincides with the Camino Teresiano. We are in fact in Teresa d'Avila country.
I confirm a bar at the entrance of the village in Cardenosa with very friendly staff.
Amazing albergue in Gotarrendura.
No pilgrims met.

Buen Camino
Brandy
Hi, Brandy,
So good to hear your reports. Just wondering if the exit from Avila is still as dangerous as it was when I walked the Levante. The story we heard was that there used to be a path through private land, but the owner was successful in blocking it, so pilgrims just had to walk around and on the shoulder of the entrance to the autovia (superhighway). I did it early on a Sunday morning, so it wasn't an issue, but I remember thinking it was a disaster waiting to happen. I had a WONDERFUL huge plate of setas (wild mushrooms) in the bar in Gotarrendura, hope you are as fortunate to have something special! Buen camino, Laurie

ps And do I remember correctly that the lore is that the dovecote in Gotarrendura belonged to Teresa d'Avila's family?
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#11
Hi, Brandy,
So good to hear your reports. Just wondering if the exit from Avila is still as dangerous as it was when I walked the Levante. The story we heard was that there used to be a path through private land, but the owner was successful in blocking it, so pilgrims just had to walk around and on the shoulder of the entrance to the autovia (superhighway). I did it early on a Sunday morning, so it wasn't an issue, but I remember thinking it was a disaster waiting to happen. I had a WONDERFUL huge plate of setas (wild mushrooms) in the bar in Gotarrendura, hope you are as fortunate to have something special! Buen camino, Laurie

ps And do I remember correctly that the lore is that the dovecote in Gotarrendura belonged to Teresa d'Avila's family?
In 2015 the exit from Avila was still on the highway but no big deal as I remember.
There is also an information I read somewhere that Teresa was actually born in the Gotarrendura but later lived in Avila.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Francés ('14/'15)
St Olav/Francés ('16)
Baztanés/Francés ('17)
Ingles ('18)
#12
I'm almost sure that Teresiano and Levante (possibly Sureste as well) overlaps on this stage.
Looks like.
(The Tereisano looks so intriguing; I keep coming back to looking at it. As a short stand-alone camino or a meaningful way to walk from Avila to the VdlP and beyond.)

Buen Camino, Brandy and thanks for the updates!
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#13
Looks like.
(The Tereisano looks so intriguing; I keep coming back to looking at it. As a short stand-alone camino or a meaningful way to walk from Avila to the VdlP and beyond.)

Buen Camino, Brandy and thanks for the updates!
I marked that one two years ago. It fits perfectly in my Camino Combo:
- Manchego (Ciudad Real - Toledo)
- Levante (Toledo - Avila, which I skipped in 2015)
- Teresiano (Avila - Salamanca)
- Torres (Salamanca - Ponte de Lima)
- Portugues Central (Ponte de Lima - SdC)

So many Caminos to walk until we sleep :)
 
Camino(s) past & future
Francés ('14/'15)
St Olav/Francés ('16)
Baztanés/Francés ('17)
Ingles ('18)
#14
Yeah, K1, I first started thinking about it when you and Laurie were chatting about the Torres a while ago.
It's potentially the nexus for a number of routes to Santiago.
And if you have any interest at all in Teresa of Avila? Well, then it's a pilgrimage in its own right.
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#15
...
And if you have any interest at all in Teresa of Avila? Well, then it's a pilgrimage in its own right.
No, actually I don't as a Pagan but I'm avid long distance walker and very inquisitive about the history being that RC Church history or any other :)
 
Camino(s) past & future
Francés ('14/'15)
St Olav/Francés ('16)
Baztanés/Francés ('17)
Ingles ('18)
#16
No, actually I don't as a Pagan but I'm avid long distance walker and very inquisitive about the history being that RC Church history or any other :)
Catholic or not (me, neither), she has an amazing story - being a mystic, a teacher, and a politician all at the same time.
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#17
Hi, Brandy,
So good to hear your reports. Just wondering if the exit from Avila is still as dangerous as it was when I walked the Levante. The story we heard was that there used to be a path through private land, but the owner was successful in blocking it, so pilgrims just had to walk around and on the shoulder of the entrance to the autovia (superhighway). I did it early on a Sunday morning, so it wasn't an issue, but I remember thinking it was a disaster waiting to happen. I had a WONDERFUL huge plate of setas (wild mushrooms) in the bar in Gotarrendura, hope you are as fortunate to have something special! Buen camino, Laurie

ps And do I remember correctly that the lore is that the dovecote in Gotarrendura belonged to Teresa d'Avila's family?
Hola Laurie
The exit from Avila is via the caretera plus 2 or 3 roundabouts. It didn't feel very long plus the traffic wasn't that heavy.
As far as the bar in Gotarrendura goes no luck. It was closed for "vacationes" so i walked to Hernansancho and got some food at the bar "El Porche" .
The lady who gave me the keys in Gotarrendura said that the Albergue in Avila was advised; so in order to stay in Gotarrendura a pilgrim was supposed to carry food an cook in the alberghe. I didn't know so I walked to the next village. No big deal.
As a general note I rarely have dinner in Spain. They serve it way to late so I normally have "raciones" which you can have any time. So even if the bar in Gotarrendura was open I wouldn't have tested the very fine food you did.
At 2030 I was in bed, wake up at 430 and exit the albergue at 5 in the morning.
Buen Camino
Brandy
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#18
Day 2 Gotarrendura Ataquines
Long walk today mostly trough farmland.
The first two hours were still at night (start at 5 am). There was some light from a half moon and stars. It was partly cloudy and the temp was 13 C.
It is always nice for me to practice some night walking. At home I have no opportunity to do it.
Remarkable is the pine tree forest I walked after Tinosillos very peaceful.
Arevalo is a nice village with an elegant centre.
After that more farm land. Both bars in Palacio de Goda were closed. And one of the two is supposed to have the keys for the little albergue they have there.
Ataquines my destination at the Hostal on the caretera. I have read some negatives reports about this hostal. I think for 20 euros I can be happy for the room they give me.
Met one peregrino from Alicate on a bike. He started in Alicante but was proceeding to Zamora and then to Santiago via Sanabrese.
Buen Camino
Brandy
 

hel&scott

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2004 St Jean - Santiago, 2008 Seville - Finestere, 2010 Ferrol - Lisbon, 2012 from Cartehenga.
#19
Hi, Brandy,
So good to hear your reports. Just wondering if the exit from Avila is still as dangerous as it was when I walked the Levante. The story we heard was that there used to be a path through private land, but the owner was successful in blocking it, so pilgrims just had to walk around and on the shoulder of the entrance to the autovia (superhighway). I did it early on a Sunday morning, so it wasn't an issue, but I remember thinking it was a disaster waiting to happen.
I remember that strange exit from Avila, but as we did it in the early morning we were lucky with light traffic also. @Brandy you reports remind me of our Levante crossing, as I lost my credential, camera and journal later on when travelling in France, my memories from this route are hazy... Partly due to it being so hard starting in Cartehenga, but I do remember the Avila to Toldeo section as being beautiful, despite some long days on the road. But then we were heading across to join the Vdlp in Zamora, good luck with the rest of your walk, I will follow you with interest.
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#21
...Both bars in Palacio de Goda were closed. And one of the two is supposed to have the keys for the little albergue they have there.
Ataquines my destination at the Hostal on the caretera. I have read some negatives reports about this hostal. I think for 20 euros I can be happy for the room they give me....
Duh, I didn't know that Palacios de Goda has any albergue... But Ataquines does have a small Acogida at Polideportivo according to my itinerary from 2015. I also have two telephone numbers for it but it's too late now.

Let me know your next stop (if you know it of course) if want to help you from a distance with some info.

Anyway Buen Camino!
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#22
Duh, I didn't know that Palacios de Goda has any albergue... But Ataquines does have a small Acogida at Polideportivo according to my itinerary from 2015. I also have two telephone numbers for it but it's too late now.

Let me know your next stop (if you know it of course) if want to help you from a distance with some info.

Anyway Buen Camino!
Thanks Kinkyone next stop Tordesillas.
Buen Camino
Brandy
 

alansykes

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Except the Francés
#24
Thanks Kinkyone next stop Tordesillas.
Buen Camino
Brandy
Tordesillas is great, crossing the Duero not quite so spectacular as at Zamora, but pretty good. The hospitalero at the (outstanding) albergue (fridge, washing machine etc) is the local police chief, a great enthusiast for the camino and for the rare pilgrims who don't turn left at Medina del Campo. Albergues at all 2 next stages (or 3 if you stay at San Pedro de Latarce, splitting the long day between Mota del Marques and Villalpando) on to Benavente.

Buen camino, quite a lot of corn coming up over the next few days.
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#25
Tordesillas is great, crossing the Duero not quite so spectacular as at Zamora, but pretty good. The hospitalero at the (outstanding) albergue (fridge, washing machine etc) is the local police chief, a great enthusiast for the camino and for the rare pilgrims who don't turn left at Medina del Campo. Albergues at all 2 next stages (or 3 if you stay at San Pedro de Latarce, splitting the long day between Mota del Marques and Villalpando) on to Benavente.

Buen camino, quite a lot of corn coming up over the next few days.
Hola Alansykes
Thanks for your report.
My self organized 2017 Camino is taking a different direction. Tomorrow I join the Camino de Madrid in Castromonte.
In the opening statement of this thread you will find all the details.
Buen Camino.
Brandy
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#26
Tordesillas is great, crossing the Duero not quite so spectacular as at Zamora, but pretty good. The hospitalero at the (outstanding) albergue (fridge, washing machine etc) is the local police chief, a great enthusiast for the camino and for the rare pilgrims who don't turn left at Medina del Campo. Albergues at all 2 next stages (or 3 if you stay at San Pedro de Latarce, splitting the long day between Mota del Marques and Villalpando) on to Benavente.

Buen camino, quite a lot of corn coming up over the next few days.
As far as the albergue goes I must have the wrong number. I called yesterday twice with no answer. So I decided for the puerta de villa hostal. Very decent.
Buen camino
Brandy
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#27
Day 3
Ataquines Tordesillas
Exiting the Hostal on the motorway near Ataquines at 6 I had a good our and one half of darkness. Much better than yesterday the sky was clear of clouds. Plenty of stars were there to be seen.
Then I got to San Vincente del Palacio and there is a gas station open 24/7 where you can eat all you need.
The rest to Medina del Campo was a nice walk. At the end in the middle of pine trees. The city is nice with a central square. I liked in particular the castle.
After Medina on the Sureste to Rueda . The exit is again on the caretera on the junction to the motorway. But after that you continue in the hills away from the motorway until you reach Rueda famous for the white wine.
After Rueda the camino is really painful for 3 km. You walk near standing stinky water . After that it is much better until the nice arrival at Tordesillas with its buildings facing the Duero.
I'm told by the locals that there is an Albergue in the city. Also on my documentation there was an albergue and a telephone number. I called twice yesterday with no answer.
So I have decided for the very decent puerta la villa hostal. (20 euros).
So in one day I say bye bye to 2 caminos: the Levante in Medina and Sureste in Tordesillas.
Tomorrow to Castromonte on the Madrileno.
Buen Camino
Brandy
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#28
Day 4 Tordesillas Castromonte
I didn't mention that today was the last day of 8 days of festivities for the protector of Tordesillas. Very Spanish.
The point is that at 7 a band came under the windows of my room to remember that nobody can sleep but all must get involved.
So after caffe I started my transition to the madrileno. Untill Velilla I succeded in finding a country road and after I just took the caretera to make my day shorter. The caretera has very little traffic.
For lunch I stayed in Torrelobaton wich has a very nice castle. Very nice staff in the bar in the main square.
And then straight to Castromonte.
The man with the keys came in few minutes and opened the door to a very nice albergue with all facilities you can desire. All fo 5 euros.
I was the only pilgrim .
Then a word on Castromonte. There is nothing exept a lousy bar and the only food they coud provide was boccadillo with chorizo.
On google map there was a Tienda. But there is no tienda. So I advised google of the non existence o the tienda and within 30 minutes they told me they canceled it.
No pilgrims met during the day.
Buen Camino
Brandy
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#29
Day 4 Tordesillas Castromonte
I didn't mention that today was the last day of 8 days of festivities for the protector of Tordesillas. Very Spanish.
The point is that at 7 a band came under the windows of my room to remember that nobody can sleep but all must get involved.
So after caffe I started my transition to the madrileno. Untill Velilla I succeded in finding a country road and after I just took the caretera to make my day shorter. The caretera has very little traffic.
For lunch I stayed in Torrelobaton wich has a very nice castle. Very nice staff in the bar in the main square.
And then straight to Castromonte.
The man with the keys came in few minutes and opened the door to a very nice albergue with all facilities you can desire. All fo 5 euros.
I was the only pilgrim .
Then a word on Castromonte. There is nothing exept a lousy bar and the only food they coud provide was boccadillo with chorizo.
On google map there was a Tienda. But there is no tienda. So I advised google of the non existence o the tienda and within 30 minutes they told me they canceled it.
No pilgrims met during the day.
Buen Camino
Brandy
Hola, Brandy,

It was discussed many times in CdM section that Castromonte doesn't have a tienda. There was a carniceria but closed in afternoons. A tienda-van comes by in the morning. The tienda on Google maps is a clothes shop but it's tienda nevertheless :)
By "lousy bar" you probably meant the bar on the main street where Lottery tickets are also sold. You should go further to the square in front of the church and on the left side of the square (opposite the church) there is Bar Caribu with elderly couple running it. Very nice.

Ultreia!
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#30
Hola, Brandy,

It was discussed many times in CdM section that Castromonte doesn't have a tienda. There was a carniceria but closed in afternoons. A tienda-van comes by in the morning. The tienda on Google maps is a clothes shop but it's tienda nevertheless :)
By "lousy bar" you probably meant the bar on the main street where Lottery tickets are also sold. You should go further to the square in front of the church and on the left side of the square (opposite the church) there is Bar Caribu with elderly couple running it. Very nice.

Ultreia!
Hola Kinkyone
In my tour of Castromonte today I didn't take the main street, I went to the tienda and I couldn't find it. There was nothing no store at all. I asked information to a lady and she said there is no tienda in the village "we only have a bar". So I continued and I arrived in the square of the church. I took some pictures of the church but I couldn't see any bar. Then I came back on the main caretera to the only open bar where I had my dinner.
Also the man that gave me the keys for the Albergue spoke about one bar not two.
Tomorrow morning when I leave I will check one more time.
Buen Camino
Brandy
 
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#31
Hola Kinkyone
In my tour of Castromonte today I didn't take the main street, I went to the tienda and I couldn't find it. There was nothing no store at all. I asked information to a lady and she said there is no tienda in the village "we only have a bar". So I continued I and arrived in the square of the church. I took some pictures of the church but I couldn't see any bar. Then I came back on the main caretera to the only open bar where I had my dinner.
Also the man that gave me the keys for the Albergue spoke about one bar not two.
Tomorrow morning when I leave I will check one more time.
Buen Camino
Brandy
Oh, Brandy, so maybe Sr. Braulio has closed the Bar Caribe. Let us know if you find out. He would be in his late 90s by now, I think. I hope he and his wife are still alive and in good health.
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#32
Day 5 Castromonte Cuenca del Campos.
Left early the nice albergue and went to the church to see if there was any bar near by. And there was no sign of a bar.
Then continued to Medina del Rioseco which is surprisingly an elegant lively city. I stopped at the Caffè Cubero and enjoyed a couple of their abisinios. That was the highlight of the day.
Than Cuenca del Campos. Nice Albergue.
With two other pilgrims we sat at the bar of the pelegrino where they serve limited food. There is also a restaurant.
Buen Camino.
Brandy
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#33
Day 6 Cuenca del Campos Sahagun
Again an early start to be in Villalon de Campos at 8 for the morning caffe. Then nothing interesting untill Sahagun exept the nice bar with friendly staff in Santervas. The bar is connected with the Albergue and they are closed on Tuesday.
In Sahagun I went to the Albergue El Labriego. Decent room and food.
Buen Camino.
Brandy
 
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Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#34
Day 7 Sahagun to Puente de Villarente.
Very boring leg where you walk all day on a sidewalk along a caretera. Berciano, El Burgo Ranero, Reliegos ecc. Nothing new.
I stopped in Puente de Villarente to visit the Albergue San Pelayo wich is really worth a visit. It is present also on Booking.con : various kind of accomodation, communal dinner and friendly staff. 10 euros.
Buen Camino.
Brandy
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#35
Day 8 Punte de Villarente La Robla
Nothing to say about the leg to Leon. With my disappointment now to enter the cathedral in Leon you must pay. So I didn't.
Then I left the francese to start the San Salvador. Nothin to say about the walking along careteras but there were about 15 km in the wild with steep climb and descents where you can get a filing of what is expecting you in the next days.
Albergue with 16 beds is full.
Buen Camino.
Brandy
 
#36
Day 8 Punte de Villarente La Robla
Nothing to say about the leg to Leon. With my disappointment now to enter the cathedral in Leon you must pay. So I didn't.
Then I left the francese to start the San Salvador. Nothin to say about the walking along careteras but there were about 15 km in the wild with steep climb and descents where you can get a filing of what is expecting you in the next days.
Albergue with 16 beds is full.
Buen Camino.
Brandy
Hi, Brandy,
So, you are off onto the Salvador! I am surprised to hear that the Albergue in La Robla is full.

Leaving León, you can walk alongside the river for many of those kms, and avoid the highway walking. Ender's guide details it. I don't know that there are any more special hints in that guide, but I'll link to it here just in case you haven't seen it. It is really very complete.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B61VvtkuNOwEMXpaM280YWtTTXM/view?pref=2&pli=1

Enjoy the mountains, hopefully the weather will be good for you. Given the long distances you walk, it wouldn't surprise me to see you reporting in tomorrow from Pajares! Buen camino, thanks for all the posts, Laurie
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#37
Day 9 La Robla Pajares.
So this is the stage in the mountains. Very little to say from la Robla to Buiza except the fact that in Pola del Gordon the Camino doesn't go trough the center of the city where the Caffè and the shops are located. Considering that both Buiza and Poladura don't have facilities and so you need to buy food in Pola, I would expect the Camino to help the pilgrims in this task.
In Buiza there were 2 pilgrims one from Budapest the other from Lisbon. All the pilgrims that were in La Robla last night (exept me) went to Poladura.
After Buiza the climb starts and you have the mountains, the silence and as a special gift a day with not a single cloud.
After the noise of the francese the silence of the San Salvador.
Albergue in Poladura is very basic. No tienda no bar. The only cooking facilities is a microwave oven period.
Then I reached Pajares, the pass, where the old Parador is. There is a very nice bar , closed on Mondays.
After that I elected to stay on the caretera for about 500 meters (on the left side ) untill I intercepted the camino leading me to Pajares Albergue.
Buen Camino.
Brandy
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#38
...
Albergue in Poladura is very basic. No tienda no bar. The only cooking facilities is a microwave oven period.....
Well, Brandy if you would take some time for preparation than you would know you can call ahead and have your dinner at Casa Rural in Poladura. Sorry, bad preparation ;(
It's all on the forum...
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#39
Well, Brandy if you would take some time for preparation than you would know you can call ahead and have your dinner at Casa Rural in Poladura. Sorry, bad preparation ;(
It's all on the forum...
Dear KinkyOne
Thank you for the replay.
Yes I heard that you can have the dinner prepared by the Casa Rural. But many pilgrims planning to stay at Poladura didn't know the possibility. I was present at the briefing the Hospitalero made to all the pilgrims at La Robla the evening before and he didn't mention the posibility. He emphasized the need to buy food in Pola del Gordon.
So I didn't write about it in my report.
Regarding my planning I didn't change it because of the food problem (this is what I have understood from your replay); it always was La Robla to Pajares and this is what I walked.
Buen Camino
Brandy
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#40
Day 10 Pajares Mieres
So it was a steep and slippery descent. I did it in darkness with head light. Then once at the bottom near the river it was a continuous up and down, opening and closin gates, a couple time barking free dogs, occasional nice views and sometimes tight vegetation that needed some exercise to go through. Up to Compomanares.
Than to Pola and then to Mieres just a walking along the noisy motorway mostly on the caretera.
Nice the riverwalk from Uxo to Mieres.
Albergue in Mieres is north of the city and the Hospitalero was sick. So I was lucky because there were already some pilgrims, if not I would have to walk another kilometer to another deportivo where they have the keys.
I need to mention near the Albergue the Hostal La Pena is open 24 hours. So a good place to have breakfast on the way to Oviedo.
Buen Camino
Brandy
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#41
Day 11 Mieres Escamplero
As I said the breakfast was at Hostal la Pena. Then a brisk walk to Oviedo trough three hills sometimes wet.
Oviedo has a nice elegant center. The majestic cathedral can be visited free of charge. Preparation was going on of three days of festivities for the protector of Oviedo Saint Mathews.
After the visit I proceeded to Escamplero about 10 km past Oviedo. About 12 pilgrims in there.
Buen Camino
Brandy
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#44

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#45
Day 12 Escamplero Salas
A very nice walk from Escamplero to Grado. Always in the shadow of trees. After Grado it gets less interesting up to Salas.
In Salas I stayed at the Albergue al Rey Casto wehre for 10 euro you get a complimentary welcome bier, use of lavadora and morning breakfast.
For dinner I went to Castillo de Valdés Restaurant which offers a very good menù del peregrino.
Buen Camino
Brandy
 
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Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#46
Day 13
Salas Tineo
The word of the day is "mud". For some reason 80% of today's camino was in the mud. So the enjoyment was somewhat reduced.
In Tineo I went to a very nice hotel: Palacio de Meras. In the same building they have Albergue (12 €) and hotel (40 €). The menu del peregrino was not 4 stars like the hotel.
In the hotel I met @laineylainey (thanks Laurie) and had a very interesting conversation / evening.
Buen Camino
Brandy
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#47
Day 14 Tineo Borres
A short walking day in beautiful weather. Not too steep just a gentle up and down to Borres getting ready for the Hospitales tomorrow.
Segnora Gloria is running the bar providing dinner starting at 19 and breakfasts starting at 730. If you need a boccadillo she will fix it for you.
Buen Camino
Brandy
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#48
Day 15 Borres Berduceo.
It is not raining but it is cloudy. The first impression is that the climb is not as bad as I thought, I'm walking in mountainous terrain, but the climb on the Salvador was worst. Unfortunately the top of the mountains were in the clouds so not to much to see. Also the descent wasn't too steep or rocky.
Very nice arrival in Berducedo walking in a forest and albergue casa Marques. 10 €.
Buen Camino.
Brandy
 
#49
Day 13
Salas Tineo
The word of the day is "mud". For some reason 80% of today's camino was in the mud. So the enjoyment was somewhat reduced.
In Tineo I went to a very nice hotel: Palacio de Meras. In the same building they have Albergue (12 €) and hotel (40 €). The menu del peregrino was not 4 stars like the hotel.
In the hotel I met @laineylainey (thanks Laurie) and had a very interesting conversation / evening.
Buen Camino
Brandy
Be careful what you wish for, Brandy. Once you cross into Galicia, virtually 100% of the camino will be hard crushed gravel (called hormigón in Spanish). I think there is one eucalyptus forest outside of Cadavo that has avoided that fate. It is hard on the feet and makes for a plodding level surface, which of course increases the odds of tendonitis. I would take mud any day.

So glad you met Lainey! I stayed in the albergue there as well and was warned by others who had been there before that the menú del peregrino is not very good. Guess they have to make their money somewhere, since they have really created a very inexpensive luxury albergue!

In Tineo, I would recommend La Fogaza a few blocks away. Excellent!
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#50
Day 16 Berducedo Castro
Nice walk to A Mesa and then the descent to the lake begins. There is a caution : due to the fire in April 2017 they recommend to take an alternate route wich I didn't. The alternate route is 7.5 km longer. I continued on the normal route and I couldn't see any problem.
Also the descent is nice not rocky and on a wide path. I stopped on the other side of the dam (1km) for Caffè in a hostal. They have also single rooms for 25 €.
The rest of the walk to Grandas and to Castro is just a very nice walk on this well designed Camino Primitivo.
Albergue in Castro is very good.
Buen Camino
Brandy
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#51
Day 17 Castro Fonsagrada
Left the nice albergue in Castro just before sunrise, there were some low stratus of clouds and that made a great opportunity for photos. Then this climb to the hill with the windmills, you gain 500 meters almost effortlessly and then down you enter Galizia and so you have to stop for Caffè in O Acevo in a single house with a bar. They have a stamp "primero in Galizia ". The rest of the walk to Fonsagrada is easy and panoramic.
Albergue Cantabrico in Fonsagrada is very good and costs 10 €.
Buen Camino
Brandy
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#53
Day 18 Fonsagrada Castroverde
After a nice evening meal based on pulpo galiego now a nice walk. A little bit challenging expecially the second climb to A Lastra in the heat. The descents are never steep so my legs don't suffer much.
Albergue Muni in Castroverde is nice.
Buen Camino
Brandy
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#54
Day 19 Castroverde Roman de la Retorta.
This stage can be divided in two parts. Untill Lugo or just before Lugo it is very nice. After Lugo it is 90 % on asphalt.
Lugo is nice but not special. I visited the cathedral in the center. After that I had a meal at Roots and Boots on the camino just before the bridge on the rio Miňo. This place is very nice and it has also an Albergue. (10 €).
After that I walked to Roman de la Retorta where the private albergue is disappointing. The food they offered was also not very good. There is also a municipal Albergue.
Buen Camino
Brandy
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#55
Day 20
Roman de la Retorta Arzua
Daparting Roman de la Retorta in light rain
Not much to say except that the first open bar was near the Albergue at As Seixos.
After that Melide and Arzua was uneventful.
In Arzua albergue Utreia. Nice
Buen Camino
Brandy
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#56
Day 21
Arzua Santiago
Francese still pretty crowded (maybe the nice weather plays a part in that ).
The only thing I would mention is that when you come down from Monte de Gozo there is no more the bridge across the motorway. So the Camino has a diversion of few kilometers.
Cathedral is still with works in progress.
For the night I went to the Pinario in a pilgrim room.
Buen Camino
Brandy
 
#57
Day 19 Castroverde Roman de la Retorta.
This stage can be divided in two parts. Untill Lugo or just before Lugo it is very nice. After Lugo it is 90 % on asphalt.
Lugo is nice but not special. I visited the cathedral in the center. After that I had a meal at Roots and Boots on the camino just before the bridge on the rio Miňo. This place is very nice and it has also an Albergue. (10 €).
After that I walked to Roman de la Retorta where the private albergue is disappointing. The food they offered was also not very good. There is also a municipal Albergue.
Buen Camino
Brandy
Hi, Brandy, well, you are done and done! Congratulations.

I have stayed in the adorable municipal albergue in San Roman, years before the private albergue and years before the much nicer private albergues a few kms down the road in Ferreira. Though adorable my be an odd word to use to describe an albergue, it is a tiny stone house with two little bedrooms off on each side of a kitchen, or at least that is how it was. Before that private albergue there were just a few buildings and a big field from the days when it used to be the location of a livestock market. It was a really peaceful and kind of pastoral place to spend an afternoon, I remember we took a walk on a non-camino path and it was quite nice, little streams, old abandoned mill, etc.

You are not the first person to give that kind of review to the private albergue in San Roman. I have heard they may be operating outside the law and some legal processes have begun, but I don't know if that is true. But having walked there from Lugo, you were probably happy just to have a bed and a meal and be done with it!

I think I disagree a bit with your comment that Lugo is not special. Those Roman walls, and the walk around the city on top of them, is pretty spectacular IMO. Glad it all went so well, buen camino, Laurie
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#58
Day 22
Santiago Santa Mariňa
Very little to say about this stage. Still pretty crowded, met some pilgrims returning to Santiago.
Spent the night by Dona Pepa in Santa Mariňa, a fraction of As Maronas, a decent Albergue - Bar. This place is interesting (together with another 500 meters ahead ) if you want to split in two the distance between Santiago and Muxia.
Buen Camino
Brandy
 
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Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#59
Day 23
Santa Mariňa Muxia
Again a well known track this time with very few pilgrims around, to one of the most intriguing places in the whole Camino system: not Muxia it self which is of little interest but the sanctuary of the Virxe da Barca. This church pointing to the ocean indicates that the walking part has finished but the camino must now continue inside the pilgrim.
The Albergue where I stayed was the modern and stylish Bela Muxia.
Buen Camino
Brandy
 

Brandy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
28th May will start the EPW
#60
Day 24
Muxia Finisterre
And now to the end of the world.
The last stage a very easy one. I have done it once before and I conferm the same impressions. A quiet walk in a forest with the ocean that occasionally appears on the right side. No careteras, no noisy industry just silence and at moments you can feel the ocean breeze and vapors.
I know many pilgrims prefer taking a bus from Finisterre to Muxia, they don't know what they are missing.
Albergue this time is Cabo da Vila. Very well organized.
Tomorrow the 6th of October if Ryanair doesn't cancel my flight, I will fly back to Italy.
It was very nice to write to the forum, a sincere thanks to all the friends that collaborated to this thread .
My next camino the European Peace Walk in June.
Buen Camino
Brandy
 
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Camino(s) past & future
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
#61
Brandy,

Thank you for sharing your journey; it has been a true pleasure to follow your way!
May tonight's sunset at the end of the world be splendid; for you it certainly will be unforgetable!

Godspeed and ultreia!
 

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