Starting Point: Lourdes vs Aire-sur-l'Adour

[yaz]

Hi all- First time posting here, so thanks in advance for your participation in this thread!

I'm planning my first Camino and seeking advice around starting point. I am tossing up between starting at Lourdes vs Aire-sur-l'Adour (then onto SJJP>CF>Finisterre).

Has anyone done Lourdes>SJJP and also Aire-sur-l'Adour>SJJP and can provide some info on the differences? I'd love to get a sense of how picturesque each are, difference in crowds, difference in infrastructure, and overall "vibe". I have it in my mind to see sweet French villages, so not sure if either one is better for this.

Some more info:

• I've decided to start beyond SJJP to see ~1 week more of France. I'm also assuming that the later I start from SJJP, the more in the off-season I'll be (although this may be a fallacy). Either way, I'm happy to get a wee bit more of France.
• I have a one-way flight to CDG on August 18, 2024. I have budget and time to get myself to either Lourdes or Aire-sur-l'Adour.
• With a one-way ticket, I can be flexible with my timing but am allotting for ~2 months from wherever I start>Finisterre.
• I'm mid-thirties and relatively fit.

Open to any thoughts and thanks again for your time!

 

[VeganCamino]

I would love to know what you end up doing. Please let us know once you do it. Buen Camino

 

[donalomahony]

Thread 'Best path from Lourdes to St. Jean Pied de Port' https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...h-from-lourdes-to-st-jean-pied-de-port.82039/

This thread may help your decision. There are lots of other posts found by searching using "voie de piemont".

I walked from Lourdes and enjoyed the route. I can't compare to the other since I didn't walk that route.

 

[Glenshiro]

Haven't walked from Lourdes, but have visited. Really disliked it. People, presumably very ill, being pushed through the streets on gurneys, to a Disneyfied "grotto" which they will leave in exactly the same condition. Plastic Madonnas everywhere.
Aire sur l'Adour is an unremarkable French provincial town, with a river, a pleasant centre and some nice, cheap, restaurants. I found it a good place to start approaching SJpdp. Getting there is more difficult. There is an irregular bus service from Mont de Marsan, the end of a railway line from Bordeaux.

 

[patriciafross]

Hi all- First time posting here, so thanks in advance for your participation in this thread!

I'm planning my first Camino and seeking advice around starting point. I am tossing up between starting at Lourdes vs Aire-sur-l'Adour (then onto SJJP>CF>Finisterre).

Has anyone done Lourdes>SJJP and also Aire-sur-l'Adour>SJJP and can provide some info on the differences? I'd love to get a sense of how picturesque each are, difference in crowds, difference in infrastructure, and overall "vibe". I have it in my mind to see sweet French villages, so not sure if either one is better for this.

Some more info:

• I've decided to start beyond SJJP to see ~1 week more of France. I'm also assuming that the later I start from SJJP, the more in the off-season I'll be (although this may be a fallacy). Either way, I'm happy to get a wee bit more of France.
• I have a one-way flight to CDG on August 18, 2024. I have budget and time to get myself to either Lourdes or Aire-sur-l'Adour.
• With a one-way ticket, I can be flexible with my timing but am allotting for ~2 months from wherever I start>Finisterre.
• I'm mid-thirties and relatively fit.

Open to any thoughts and thanks again for your time!

If you start in Aire sur L’Adour, stay in the Chapelle des Ursulines. It is an incredible place to stay and one of my favorites on Le Chemin de St Jacques!
I found Lourdes fascinating and I’m not all that religious but I was there in the evening and felt very humbled by the procession of the Virgin Mary, and yes, there are those who come to maybe be cured of their ills but I find hope a good thing. There can always be a miracle, whatever your beliefs are.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Lourdes is I think the better starting point, though I would personally advise at a certain point after Oloron-Sainte-Marie, split off to DIY and follow little country roads to Navarrenx.

The variant from Oloron to SJPP after there is pleasant to walk, but the infrastructure is still quite lacking - - whereas Navarrenx to SJPP is fine.

 

[VeganCamino]

If you start in Aire sur L’Adour, stay in the Chapelle des Ursulines. It is an incredible place to stay and one of my favorites on Le Chemin de St Jacques!
I found Lourdes fascinating and I’m not all that religious but I was there in the evening and felt very humbled by the procession of the Virgin Mary, and yes, there are those who come to maybe be cured of their ills but I find hope a good thing. There can always be a miracle, whatever your beliefs are.

I'll take a miracle!

 

[Kevin Considine]

Hi all- First time posting here, so thanks in advance for your participation in this thread!

I'm planning my first Camino and seeking advice around starting point. I am tossing up between starting at Lourdes vs Aire-sur-l'Adour (then onto SJJP>CF>Finisterre).

Has anyone done Lourdes>SJJP and also Aire-sur-l'Adour>SJJP and can provide some info on the differences? I'd love to get a sense of how picturesque each are, difference in crowds, difference in infrastructure, and overall "vibe". I have it in my mind to see sweet French villages, so not sure if either one is better for this.

Some more info:

• I've decided to start beyond SJJP to see ~1 week more of France. I'm also assuming that the later I start from SJJP, the more in the off-season I'll be (although this may be a fallacy). Either way, I'm happy to get a wee bit more of France.
• I have a one-way flight to CDG on August 18, 2024. I have budget and time to get myself to either Lourdes or Aire-sur-l'Adour.
• With a one-way ticket, I can be flexible with my timing but am allotting for ~2 months from wherever I start>Finisterre.
• I'm mid-thirties and relatively fit.

Open to any thoughts and thanks again for your time!

Lourdes to SJPP will has less infrastructure but the terrain is similar. Nice villages and cuisine on both routes. Lourdes is special and a difference maker. Though I agree with Patriciafross that if you do Podiensis Chapelle des Ursulines is a special place to stay. This may help with your decision. Bon Chemin.

Starting The Camino in Lourdes Instead of St. Jean-Pied-de-Port

Yesterday was the Feast Day of Our Lady of Lourdes. For anyone considering a Camino de Santiago Pilgrimage here are 9 reasons why it is a wonderful starting point. While a high majority of pilgrims

globalpilgrim.net

 

[caminka]

If you start in Aire sur L’Adour, stay in the Chapelle des Ursulines. It is an incredible place to stay and one of my favorites on Le Chemin de St Jacques!
I found Lourdes fascinating and I’m not all that religious but I was there in the evening and felt very humbled by the procession of the Virgin Mary, and yes, there are those who come to maybe be cured of their ills but I find hope a good thing. There can always be a miracle, whatever your beliefs are.

 

[caminka]

Hi all- First time posting here, so thanks in advance for your participation in this thread!

I'm planning my first Camino and seeking advice around starting point. I am tossing up between starting at Lourdes vs Aire-sur-l'Adour (then onto SJJP>CF>Finisterre).

Has anyone done Lourdes>SJJP and also Aire-sur-l'Adour>SJJP and can provide some info on the differences? I'd love to get a sense of how picturesque each are, difference in crowds, difference in infrastructure, and overall "vibe". I have it in my mind to see sweet French villages, so not sure if either one is better for this.

Some more info:

• I've decided to start beyond SJJP to see ~1 week more of France. I'm also assuming that the later I start from SJJP, the more in the off-season I'll be (although this may be a fallacy). Either way, I'm happy to get a wee bit more of France.
• I have a one-way flight to CDG on August 18, 2024. I have budget and time to get myself to either Lourdes or Aire-sur-l'Adour.
• With a one-way ticket, I can be flexible with my timing but am allotting for ~2 months from wherever I start>Finisterre.
• I'm mid-thirties and relatively fit.

Open to any thoughts and thanks again for your time!

Hello here!

If you've never walked anything like a long walk before, start on Voie du Puy (Aire sur l'Adour). It has more acommodation options at shorter intervals, more services and less demanding terrain. A fanulous view of the Pyrenees. More companions too.

Voie du Piemont (Lourdes) has two pretty tough days with lots of steep climbs and descends with almost no water points. Services are scarce (usually one per day) and you need to plan in advance. Reservations a day ahead almost obligatory.

I think both are pretty equal in terms of pretty villages, with Piemont perhaps prettier scenery because I prefer hillier routes .

 

[Kathy F.]

I walked from Lourdes to SJPDP to SdC for my second Camino in 2015 .

The route starts on the road that goes uphill behind the Cathedral. You have to look carefully for the arrow.

In Lourdes, I bought a copy of the Topo guide "Le Chemin du piemont pyreneen" which is the route you will be following for much of this route. Yes, the book is all in French. I don't read French but I can follow detailed maps.

It was a very enjoyable route for me - I had some of my most memorable experiences on this route. I got to depend on my own resourcefulness, resources were plentiful and the local population friendly and encouraging. Be aware of your surroundings, trust your instinct, be open for surprises.

There was a newly established storefront for Camino pilgrims in Lourdes when I was there in 2022. They can help. Also, along the way, the local towns and villages can often provide maps of how to get from point A to point B.

I have my maps and papers from my 2015 journey and am looking at them as I write this. These long folded documents and sheets are very precious to me.

 

[yaz]

Thread 'Best path from Lourdes to St. Jean Pied de Port' https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...h-from-lourdes-to-st-jean-pied-de-port.82039/

This thread may help your decision. There are lots of other posts found by searching using "voie de piemont".

I walked from Lourdes and enjoyed the route. I can't compare to the other since I didn't walk that route.

Wonderful - Thanks for the info and glad that you enjoyed the Lourdes route!

 

[yaz]

Great, thanks!

Haven't walked from Lourdes, but have visited. Really disliked it. People, presumably very ill, being pushed through the streets on gurneys, to a Disneyfied "grotto" which they will leave in exactly the same condition. Plastic Madonnas everywhere.
Aire sur l'Adour is an unremarkable French provincial town, with a river, a pleasant centre and some nice, cheap, restaurants. I found it a good place to start approaching SJpdp. Getting there is more difficult. There is an irregular bus service from Mont de Marsan, the end of a railway line from Bordeaux.

 

[yaz]

Lourdes to SJPP will has less infrastructure but the terrain is similar. Nice villages and cuisine on both routes. Lourdes is special and a difference maker. Though I agree with Patriciafross that if you do Podiensis Chapelle des Ursulines is a special place to stay. This may help with your decision. Bon Chemin.

Starting The Camino in Lourdes Instead of St. Jean-Pied-de-Port

Yesterday was the Feast Day of Our Lady of Lourdes. For anyone considering a Camino de Santiago Pilgrimage here are 9 reasons why it is a wonderful starting point. While a high majority of pilgrims

globalpilgrim.net

Amazing, thank you so much!

 

[yaz]

Hello here!

If you've never walked anything like a long walk before, start on Voie du Puy (Aire sur l'Adour). It has more acommodation options at shorter intervals, more services and less demanding terrain. A fanulous view of the Pyrenees. More companions too.

Voie du Piemont (Lourdes) has two pretty tough days with lots of steep climbs and descends with almost no water points. Services are scarce (usually one per day) and you need to plan in advance. Reservations a day ahead almost obligatory.

I think both are pretty equal in terms of pretty villages, with Piemont perhaps prettier scenery because I prefer hillier routes .

Amazing insight, thank you so much! I haven't done a long walk like this before so it's a good call to start with the shorter intervals. Thanks!

 

[yaz]

Lourdes is I think the better starting point, though I would personally advise at a certain point after Oloron-Sainte-Marie, split off to DIY and follow little country roads to Navarrenx.

The variant from Oloron to SJPP after there is pleasant to walk, but the infrastructure is still quite lacking - - whereas Navarrenx to SJPP is fine.

Hey @JabbaPapa - Thanks for the tips!

• Does this mean that if I start at Lourdes and then DIY roads to Naverrenx, that I would then be joining with Le Puy?
• How would you navigate from Oloron-St-Marie to Navarrenx? Can I just use Google Maps or Maps.me?
• What is your reasoning that Lourdes is the better starting point? Would love to hear your thoughts!

 

[trecile]

How would you navigate from Oloron-St-Marie to Navarrenx? Can I just use Google Maps or Maps.me?

I would use mapy.cz. It shows all of the major hiking trails without having to download tracks separately.

 

[trecile]

• I've decided to start beyond SJJP to see ~1 week more of France. I'm also assuming that the later I start from SJJP, the more in the off-season I'll be (although this may be a fallacy). Either way, I'm happy to get a wee bit more of France.
• I have a one-way flight to CDG on August 18, 2024. I have budget and time to get myself to either Lourdes or Aire-sur-l'Adour.

You should be aware that the first two weeks of September are perhaps the busiest for pilgrims starting from SJPdP, so you will probably be right in the thick of it.
To avoid the crowds in SJPdP, you could walk from Lourdes to Oloron-Sainte-Marie on the Piamonte, then take the Arles route to Somport on the Arles route and connect to the Camino Aragonés and eventually the Francés.

 

[yaz]

Hello here!

If you've never walked anything like a long walk before, start on Voie du Puy (Aire sur l'Adour). It has more acommodation options at shorter intervals, more services and less demanding terrain. A fanulous view of the Pyrenees. More companions too.

Voie du Piemont (Lourdes) has two pretty tough days with lots of steep climbs and descends with almost no water points. Services are scarce (usually one per day) and you need to plan in advance. Reservations a day ahead almost obligatory.

I think both are pretty equal in terms of pretty villages, with Piemont perhaps prettier scenery because I prefer hillier routes .

Hey @caminka - Thanks for the insight! Being my first Camino and needing to still build up my walking endurance, I like your thinking. When I checked out Gronze, it looks like Aire sur l'Adour has two longer days right at the beginning (see table I made to compare the Lourdes & Aire's KMs below). I'm assuming what you mean is that I would break down the 30+ KM days into multiple days because there will be more accommodation in between these stopping points?

I'm leaning towards Air Sur L'Adour simply because I may come across more companions. And although part of the reason that I wanted to start before SJPP is to avoid some crowds, I also realize that this will be my very first few days on the Camino so some company here and there could be reassuring!

What is the best navigation app for this route?

 

[JabbaPapa]

Hey @JabbaPapa - Thanks for the tips!

• Does this mean that if I start at Lourdes and then DIY roads to Naverrenx, that I would then be joining with Le Puy?
• How would you navigate from Oloron-St-Marie to Navarrenx? Can I just use Google Maps or Maps.me?
• What is your reasoning that Lourdes is the better starting point? Would love to hear your thoughts!

Lourdes is a pilgrimage in its own right, and regardless various difficulties already discussed in the thread, Lourdes to Oloron-Sainte-Marie at least is a lovely walk, whether you follow the GR or mix'n'match trail and tarmac.

Yes you would join the Le Puy route at Navarrenx. I would personally also detour via Saint-Palais, but that's not at all necessary on that variant, and to Saint-Palais is on a lot of tarmac.

And I would use mapy.cz ...

 

[caminka]

Hey @caminka - Thanks for the insight! Being my first Camino and needing to still build up my walking endurance, I like your thinking. When I checked out Gronze, it looks like Aire sur l'Adour has two longer days right at the beginning (see table I made to compare the Lourdes & Aire's KMs below). I'm assuming what you mean is that I would break down the 30+ KM days into multiple days because there will be more accommodation in between these stopping points?

I'm leaning towards Air Sur L'Adour simply because I may come across more companions. And although part of the reason that I wanted to start before SJPP is to avoid some crowds, I also realize that this will be my very first few days on the Camino so some company here and there could be reassuring!

What is the best navigation app for this route?

View attachment 175618

Use Gronze as information tool only, don't stick to the suggested stages. I always view them as a practical method of cramming info into sensibly organised way, but far from obliging me to follow it. Sometimes it occurs that an accommodation at the end stage closes down and then it's left hanging.

So yes, by all means, break the stages as it suits you. The green houses are more budget-friendly accommodations, but if you are not limited, browns give you even more options. Do pay attention on the distance from the route, in France it often happens that accommodation is a bit away. Usually adequately signed.

I would also suggest to start with shorter days, if you have enough time, to get your body used to this unfamiliar tempo.

There are pilgrims walking Voie du Piemont (an owner of a camping before Carcassonne said that pilgrims have been passing by or staying every day this year). If Lourdes is important to you, I would take JabbaPapa's suggestion of going via Navarrenx and joining Voie du Puy there. Last two days of Voie du Piemont are tough. For this, you need to be able to navigate with a map (geoportail is France's national mapping agency with excellent maps online)(mapy.cz or waymarked trails on openstreetmaps are good complementary options) or with a gps track (from wikiloc, for example). I've never tried to walk from Oloron to Navarrenx and I don't know if there are any scallop waymarkings. You will likely need to make your own route from local routes and local roads.

 

[JabbaPapa]

I've never tried to walk from Oloron to Navarrenx and I don't know if there are any scallop waymarkings. You will likely need to make your own route from local routes and local roads.

There aren't.

But there are multiple variants, some easy cycling routes, but my own preferred route that way is on some small country roads with very few cars.

Easy, beautiful, pleasant.

 

[caminka]

There aren't.

But there are multiple variants, some easy cycling routes, but my own preferred route that way is on some small country roads with very few cars.

Easy, beautiful, pleasant.

There may be if you cut from Hopital st Blaise? Here are links between various chemins in Bearn: https://www.compostelle.fr/etapes/etapes-pays-basque-bearn/voies-de-liaison-pays-basque-bearn/.
And here is the link Hopital st Blaise - Navarrenx: https://www.compostelle.fr/etapes/e...e-du-puy-l-hopital-st-blaise-voie-du-piemont/.

 

[JabbaPapa]

There may be if you cut from Hopital st Blaise?

I'd personally suggest a little bit before that, but truth is that it's a multiple choice question with no wrong answers - - just preferences to personal taste, including on this side of the little river or the other.

The cycling paths on either side of it are at least waymarked, if you worry about such things.

 

[caminka]

I'd personally suggest a little bit before that, but truth is that it's a multiple choice question with no wrong answers - - just preferences to personal taste, including on this side of the little river or the other.

The cycling paths on either side of it are at least waymarked, if you worry about such things.

I have no problem blazing my route through anywhere, but for someone with little experience walking long distances, possibly little experience reading maps, unknown orientation skills, walking in a country with a (probably) foreign language... it is not easy.

 

[JabbaPapa]

I have no problem blazing my route through anywhere, but for someone with little experience walking long distances, possibly little experience reading maps, unknown orientation skills, walking in a country with a (probably) foreign language... it is not easy.

True enough, unless you are willing to just dive into the deep end - - which of course not all would or should want to.

That is an excellent counterpoint.

 

[SongKhonGair]

Hi, late reply, sorry. We finished our first Camino in June, and I have been paying less attention here.

We walked from Toulouse to Lourdes, then on to SJPP and the Frances.

We are in our 60s, had never done any hiking, had never carried a hiking pack. Starting before SJPP, particularly the route we took, and speaking little french... I was somewhat nervous! But it was the best part of our Camino. We had to think for ourselves, had to go hungry a couple of times, had to put in some long days. Worth it.

So worth it we are going back next year, staying on the Arles and onto the Aragones. Only to Pamplona though, the Frances ... was an experience I am happy to have had once in my life.

The day we left Lourdes was, I think, my favourite day of all. Starting from the Sanctuary you can walk thru the grounds and out the back gate. And you continue along beside the river for 8km or so. This was special - the river is wide, fast-flowing (in spring), and noisy. The path is thru some sort of reserve, giving a "wilderness" feel. And at the end of that are your French villages, and a couple of friendly towns. We smiled a lot!

We spent that night at Bétharram, in the monastery with our window looking out over the river and the arch of an ancient-looking bridge. Magical. Although food was difficult to come by.

The climb out of the valley and over to Asson was not as tough as I was expecting, it was an enjoyable morning - forest paths, small farms, curious donkeys. We could not find any accomodation, though, and ended up almost at Arudy. And that became a long tough day, mostly on road with a couple of tough little climbs, and not a lot of shade.

Arudy to Oloron was easy, a lot of it thru forest - we sighted several deer. (We followed the old railway line / now walking path from Arudy to Buzy that avoided the steep section of the official path.)

The municipal at Oloron was a joy.

We cut over to Navarrenx from Oloron - leave the path at Prechacq-Josbaig and it is only another 11km or so, most of it on very quiet back roads. Took a break in an old bus shelter / now communal library.

From Navarrenx we were swamped with French pilgrims, in a good way. From Toulouse to Oloron we encountered 5 other pilgrims. That first night in Navarrenx we sat in front of an open fire with 9 fellow pilgrims, all of them French. Friendly and generous.

The few days to SJPP were some good days - probably 50/50 forest paths / hard surfaces. Busy but not crowded. Comraderie, more so than the Frances IMO. Lots of facilities, lots of accommodation.