Starting the camino Olvidado tomorrow!

[peregrina2000]

Just checking to see if I can post pictures. Susanna arrives tonight and tomorrow we walk. Weather is beautiful. Warm but not sweltering. Can't wait to get started! Laurie

 

[Theatregal]

Gorgeous shot! Buen Camino Laurie!

 

[peregrina2000]

Gorgeous shot! Buen Camino Laurie!

Thanks theatre gal, I owe it all to you!

 

[econodan]

Buen camino, Laurie.
We're almost right behind you. We'll be in Bilbao Tuesday, then taking a bus to San Vicente to start on the Camino Lebaniego. Maybe we'll run into you guys on the Invierno later on.
Dan

 

[petro]

Buen camino!

 

[alansykes]

That's quite a beast. Not many buildings can make a Louise Bourgeois look small. One day, one day. Buen camino.

 

[KiwiNomad06]

Hi Laurie,
I've actually been following all of Susanna's training walks on Twitter- so knew you and she were about to start walking. You are one of several people whose exploits I am following at present. If I can't make it over that way myself at present, at least I can read of other people's exploits!

Have just read your signature and my eye was drawn to the Vadiniense/Primitivo/Salvador link- as I have been reading the postings from the Kiwi Family currently on the Primitivo, having just walked the Salvador. http://charitywalking.wordpress.com/ Their photos etc look so stunning I am totally sold on the idea of doing this route myself one year! (So then I checked out your Vadiniense posts too, but decided that might be a bit too challenging for me on my own.)

Buen Camino to you and Susanna.
Margaret

 

[Al the optimist]

If in Bilbao the church "Parroquia de los Santos Juanes" is well worth a visit too.

 

[Magwood]

Buen camino Laurie, I wish you both an amazing journey.

 

[peregrina2000]

Made it to Balmaseda, 32 in the guide, 37.5 on gps. It was a very lovely walk, quiet, next to the river Cadagua almost the whole way. The only problem was that it was virtually all asphalt! Not good for the shins. But after a shower and some ice, things seem better.

We´re staying in Hotel Convent San Roque and it´s got a great pilgrim price of 35€. We´re now at the cultural center where Susanna is figuring out our gps problems, and I am doing nothing other than translating into English from Spanish. The route hasn´t been following the written guide, but it has been very well marked, so we are fine. This town of Balmaseda reminds me a bit of Puente la Reina. Medieval arched bridge and all!

Short day tomorrow because we will take a detour to visit two romanesque churches, I will try to post a picture. Thanks for all the good wishes, we are fine and it was so much fun to finally meet in person! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Tia Valeria]

Buen Camino to both of you, from both of us. Looking forward to your posts etc.

 

[peregrina2000]

A hot day but we made it to Villasana de Mena and continued out to the churches (without backpack!!!). They are both beautiful but Siones is just amazing.

 

[mspath]

Best of luck to both you and Susanna. Must add your route to my list of dreams!

Godspeed and Carpe Diem,

Margaret

 

[wayfarer]

Just checking to see if I can post pictures. Susanna arrives tonight and tomorrow we walk. Weather is beautiful. Warm but not sweltering. Can't wait to get started! LaurieView attachment 10949

Visited here in 2004 in the camper just to see the Guggenheim, it is a stunning building but the exhibition at the time wasn't great but still worth the trip just to see the building. the temp was 42 c the same year. Hot hot hot.
Have a great Camino Laurie and Susanna.

 

[peregrina2000]

Day 3. Taxi back to Nava de Ordunte (where we detoured off the camino to visit the churches) and from there to Espinosa de los Monteros. What was written as 24 turned out to be 37 by gps.

Highlight of the day -- to get out of the taxi and see someone waiting to walk with us. It was Adolfo of the Bilbao Association who wanted to walk the first 25 or so with us!!! It is a glorious day of walking. To a reservoir, along country lanes through little hamlets with flowers spilling out of every window, up some big hills alongside a river, a few waterfalls, through green tunnels, and a few Romanesque churches thrown in for good measure! Perfect in every way. The marking was generally great but a few times we were very glad Adolfo was with us because we might still be out there looking for the way into Berducedo.

After an hour long rest with Adolfo and his ride home (his son) we filled our packs with cherries from their garden and some local specialties called troncos-- chorizo-filled bread from wood ovens. The last 11 or so we were on our own and made it in good time to Espinosa. Tomorrow is "only" 28 (we've heard that before though) to a casa rural and closer to the mountains! Buen camino, Laurie.

 

[Theatregal]

Such a wonderful photo!

 

[peregrina2000]

Two more days to Pedrosa and then today to Arija. The walks have had some really nice parts but a few asphalt slogs as well. Some nice ascents with great views and a chance to walk on what was supposed to be a RR from Santander to the Mediterranean.

Distances are long, marking is variable, but no question that we're heading to santiago with smiles on our faces!

 

[peregrina2000]

In Aguilar de Campoo after a few more days with lots of Roman road, Roman bridges, Romanesque and even megalithic. Marking is surprisingly good and there are lots of little towns with only a handful of inhabitants but luckily they are very helpful in pointing the way. But very few have heard of this camino. The surprising (and much appreciated) fact for me is there is thankfully little asphalt.

 

[ivar]

Buen camino to the both of you!

 

[peregrina2000]

On to Plan B because of force majeure. I am now walking alone and will have to dig the gps out of the bottom of my pack and try to figure it out! I knew things were going south when my written instructions told me to turn left at an unmarked and not very visible left turn. But after several fits and starts I finally saw what I thought was Matamorisca in the distance. BINGO! From there smooth sailing, at least 12 k on a dirt path along the rio pisuerga, really lovely.



Tomorrow looks complicated --up to two abandoned mines and then along a forest edge to an old battlefield. I'll give it a try but know I can come back down to the highway if I get too turned around.

Had about 20 minutes of light rain but luckily nothing else. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[peregrina2000]

My second day alone but with the GPS tracks I was able to find my way up to the mine and through the forests.


But without my pal's gps tracks I would have had a very rough time.

A lovely walking day around the Montana palentina.

 

[peregrina2000]

In Cistierna. An amazing day. Short easy and beautiful. What more do you want?






I saw the point where the Vadiniense merged and was tempted to go figure out the mess around the old abandoned mine but decided to head for the Hostal Moderno and its great menu del dia.

Tomorrow Boñar. Hope to see Ender in a couple of days.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

I met up with Laurie in Bonar (there's no tilde on this keyboard, alas); we picnicked and looked round an old sanitarium on the edge of town. And then, driving from out of the mountains... it's Ender! with his longsuffering spouse alongside to keep order.
A good time was had by all -- it was Pioneer Night in swingin' Bonar!
Laurie looks great, not a bit the worse for wear after all those lonesome miles in the mountains.

 

[peregrina2000]

Best camino day ever! First comes a call from LTFit, enjoying herself on the Levante. Then comes Rebekah, picnic basket in tow. Then comes Ender and his wife for a drink in a cafe. Who would have thought Boñar would be such a wonderful place to be yesterdayafternoon? I was feeling kind of down in the dumps but these visits really made my day!

Am now in La Robla and there are other peregrinos in the albergue! Human contact two days in a row, wow. I have to admit I am tempted to continue on to the Salvador/Primitivo but as of right now I'm sticking with the Olvidado (but I am VERY tempted ......)

 

[Rebekah Scott]

Pioneering is a lonely occupation, dear girl. You are almost finished, don't stop now! Ultreya and all that!

 

[peregrina2000]

Took these pics about ten minutes apart. La Robla is mining country!

 

[peregrina2000]

The weather gods seem to be looking out for me. There was a loud long storm in la Robla last night, which led to some extra snoozing beyond my normal wake up time. Hard to get out of bed to grey wet skies. But by 7:30 I was on my way and am now resting in la Magdalena. Marking has not been great but I'm not regretting my decision to stay on the Olvidado.

The instructions I have for the last 15-20 km of today's walk are a hopeless mess so I'll just hope for the best! Gps has helped me out a bit but I've still had a few awful scrambles up to the side of the highway. Character building, that's what the Olvidado is.

 

[peregrina2000]

So I rounded out my pilgrim skills today by becoming fairly adept at getting over or under some fairly hostile barricades (not the "open gate here and close behind you" friendly kind). But Ender has assured me that these caminos are all marked through land we have a right to pass through. So today I went under two barbed wire fences (glad for a washing machine here tonight), over one that was reportedly electrified but I didn't feel it, and through the middle of a couple of three layer gates. Not sure this is a skill I will be glad to have acquired though.

Looks like my rain-less camino is coming to an end tomorrow but it doesn't look too bad, fingers crossed.

So glad to have wifi during these long solitary days! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[mla1]

Hi Laurie, Glad to see your posts. You are definitely on a character-building adventure. Here's wishing you good luck with the weather and good paths underfoot.
ml

 

[peregrina2000]

Two wonderful walking days. One into Fasgar, which is the last town on the road up into the mountains. I stayed with Rosi and her family -- they gave up the rat race in Oviedo and came back to the pueblo. They have huge vegetable plots, lambs and a pig for the matanza. They are renovating an old family home. They are camino angels.


Then today over the mts through the Campo de Santiago where Santiago pitched in to help defeat the Moors. A beautiful walk.


I'm in a small pueblo where the owner of a casa rural took pity on me and gave me a room for 20 euros. I am down to about 30 euros and no ATMs in my future. Two more days to Ponferrada, where I'll meet up with Reb and get up to Peñalba after so many years of wanting to go there.

 

[OzAnnie]

You're amazing Laurie!
It is interesting for me to read that you have the occasional down when missing contact, but the main thing is you bounce straight back.
And 'scaling electric fences'., I'm glad it was switched off !?
Wow again and Buen Camino

 

[peregrina2000]

Terrain is changing. Just saw my first vineyard of the whole wall so far.

Cherries galore.


Lots of people out working in their amazing gardens and always wishing me well. And the marking has been outstanding the last few days. Now all they need are albergues!

Biggest challenge today so far has been an insistent swarm of annoying flies that accompanied me for several hours. Better than barbed wire fences. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[KiwiNomad06]

Am now in La Robla and there are other peregrinos in the albergue! Human contact two days in a row, wow. I have to admit I am tempted to continue on to the Salvador/Primitivo but as of right now I'm sticking with the Olvidado (but I am VERY tempted ......)

I know what you mean about the loneliness- the Cluny route was like that- very hard when you don't even see one other walker on the route most days! But good memories... Glad Rebekah came to picnic with you.
Go well. Love your photos!
Margaret

 

[peregrina2000]

In Congosto. It was a great off-road walk, well marked, through the "monte" on the fire break and then through a couple of pretty little towns.

Santiago must be looking out for me and my dwindling supply of euros. The owner of the lovely casa rural Álvaro de Mendaña called her brother to come open it up for me. With instructions that I should leave however many euros I wanted to pay. She also had left me a huge plate of cherries and one of freshly baked cookies and cakes. Then the owner of the mesón next door tells me they have a special 5€ menú on Saturday.

So it looks like I'll make it to Ponferrada and its ATMs after all!!

 

[peregrina2000]

Had my first rain off and on all the way into Ponferrada. And during the hardest rain I came to an unmarked intersection. Written instructions unclear, couldn't figure out the gps, so I had to backtrack to find a live person. Fortunately that wasn't too difficult and I was on my way.

Joining up with the Francés was nothing special, no bells ringing to signal my arrival, no marker to show the end of the Camino Olvidado. Just a bunch of pilgrims walking by in rain ponchos. And with that, the Olvidado was terminado.



Now for a few days' detour with Rebekah up to Peñalba de Santiago and then back here, where I'll have to choose between the Francés and the Invierno. Anyone going to be in Ponferrada soon looking for a less traveled option?

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[ksam]

Ahhh Cherries in Spain! Simply eating one takes me back to the Camino. Loving your picutres!! Can't wait for more. Buen Camino to you Laurie!!

 

[econodan]

Hola Laurie,

We just finished the Vadiniense today. Some adventures, but mostly a great walk. We met only one other pilgrim between the coast and Mansilla de las Mulas. Took the bus from there up to Leon and got a room at the Pension Blanca. We're taking a rest day tomorrow, then will bus to part way between here and Ponferrada to start walking again. Our plan is to start on the Invierno the 12th, and we'll probably take the leisurely 12 days from there to Santiago. Not sure whether that will fit with your plans, but there it is (at least, as of this moment).

Buen camino.

Dan