Status of the Cowboy Bar

[rappahannock_rev]

I've always stopped for a refreshing sidra at the Cowboy Bar in El Ganso. but in several very recently made Camino-walker-videos the place looks closed. Anyone able to speak to that? I plan to pass through El Ganso in September, and would be very sorry to hear that it's gone....

 

[henrythedog]

Nearly two years since I passed through and it was more shut than a very shut thing. I recall a thread more recently suggesting that the proprietor was on an extended holiday.

 

[amancio]

It was closed 2 months ago, and it had been closed for quite a while

 

[jsalt]

I have spent many happy hours at the Cowboy Bar - I do hope it is not closed for good.

 

[malingerer]

I have spent many happy hours at the Cowboy Bar - I do hope it is not closed for good.

View attachment 105458

likewise!

Samarkand.

 

[Bunclody1]

I've always stopped for a refreshing sidra at the Cowboy Bar in El Ganso. but in several very recently made Camino-walker-videos the place looks closed. Anyone able to speak to that? I plan to pass through El Ganso in September, and would be very sorry to hear that it's gone....

View attachment 105451

I was in this place twice and thought the owner was a little abrupt and not a very costumer friendly host, not surprised to hear it’s closed !

 

[estorildon]

It never seemed to have much of "regular" local clientele base; just the odd pilgrim dropping in for a photo-op and spending very little money in the process.

 

[lt56ny]

I've always stopped for a refreshing sidra at the Cowboy Bar in El Ganso. but in several very recently made Camino-walker-videos the place looks closed. Anyone able to speak to that? I plan to pass through El Ganso in September, and would be very sorry to hear that it's gone....

View attachment 105451

When I walked by in 2019 it was closed shut. I have read from many that it is closed permanently.
But I Googled the bar and it shows it is open. There is a telephone number listed also. You can call and see for yourself the story. Many people complain about the place but I always met some really cool and interesting people and was treated really well.

cowboy bar el ganso - Google Search

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

La Barraca to the left of Meson Cowboy sells natural and sweeter bottled ciders.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I decided to pass up the Cowboy Bar on both of my Frances caminos. For some odd reason (to me) it seemed like a theme better suited for the state of Texas and I was only interested in the architecture and food of Spain. I probably made a big mistake.
That said, I also chose to never have a pizza in Spain.

 

[henrythedog]

I decided to pass up the Cowboy Bar on both of my Frances caminos. For some odd reason (to me) it seemed like a theme better suited for the state of Texas and I was only interested in the architecture and food of Spain. I probably made a big mistake.
That said, I also chose to never have a pizza in Spain.

My frequent visits to Plano, back in the day, were the few occasions in my working life when my hosts decided that Hooters was a suitable venue for a business lunch.

I worked with Texans all over the world. Amongst their many admirable qualities was that they were never hard to find in a crowded bar.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

My frequent visits to Plano, back in the day, were the few occasions in my working life when my hosts decided that Hooters was a suitable venue for a business lunch.

I worked with Texans all over the world. Amongst their many admirable qualities was that they were never hard to find in a crowded bar.

That's because "everything's big in Texas".

 

[John Crawford Howell]

On May 23, 2017, curiosity brought me into the Cowboy Bar for an orange juice, banana, and bocadillo. It was around 10:00 a.m. and I was alone. The "owner" served me at the bar. I can't say he was friendly, but courteous. He thanked me when I brought my empty glass back from my table and placed it on the counter. Immediately outside and on the trail, a man had a stall of sorts and was selling all manner of trinkets. What I remember most was his tape player issuing forth the mournful wails of Cante Jondo (deep Flamenco) as I passed by. Next up: visiting the falcon whose name was Julie, and her medieval costumed handler . . .

 

[austinpilgrim]

In 2013—observing something missing in his collection of cowboy paraphernalia—I gave the proprietor a University of Texas T-shirt. He was overwhelmed with gratitude.

 

[trecile]

Drenching rain brought me into the Cowboy Bar. I don't remember too much about it, other than it was dry inside!

 

[Anamiri]

We stopped there in October of 2019 and bought drinks

 

[JillGat]

On May 23, 2017, curiosity brought me into the Cowboy Bar for an orange juice, banana, and bocadillo. It was around 10:00 a.m. and I was alone. The "owner" served me at the bar. I can't say he was friendly, but courteous. He thanked me when I brought my empty glass back from my table and placed it on the counter. Immediately outside and on the trail, a man had a stall of sorts and was selling all manner of trinkets. What I remember most was his tape player issuing forth the mournful wails of Cante Jondo (deep Flamenco) as I passed by. Next up: visiting the falcon whose name was Julie, and her medieval costumed handler . . .

Here's a picture of me with the falcon named Julie. And a picture of a mosaic I did of the Cowboy Bar for my friend Lindsay from Scotland, who I met on the Camino. That's his travel guitar in the doorway. The mosaic was a gift for Lindsay, but I'm not able to actually repay him for the handcrafted ukulele he built and sent to me!

 

[Old Kiwi]

I stopped at the Cowboy Bar in June in both 2016 and 2017. I was open both times. I did not think much of the toilet.

 

[John Crawford Howell]

Here's a picture of me with the falcon named Julie. And a picture of a mosaic I did of the Cowboy Bar for my friend Lindsay from Scotland, who I met on the Camino. That's his travel guitar in the doorway. The mosaic was a gift for Lindsay, but I'm not able to actually repay him for the handcrafted ukulele he built and sent to me!

Excellent photo of you and Julie, JillGat! And such a thoughtful gift of your artistry to your friend, Lindsay. Thank you for sharing.

 

[Dunny Ramsay]

I wrote a little poem last night inspired by this post, and by some comments I'd seen elsewhere:

COWBOY BAR

The guy online confessed his sin
of never darkening the door,
because he thought it more a theme
best suited to a Texan place.

As so the Cowboy Bar was skipped,
a waypost in El Ganso, east
of Rabanal del Camino
and west of what he thought he'd find.

"Todo un cowboy," said Daniel
(but pronounced con el español);
"Muy buena gente," Carlos said.
But, "energy drinks are missing"

said Alvaro, and that comment
tells a tale more suited to a
tourist's than a pilgrim's pace--
someone whom the flechas

pierced but never wounded, armed
against the saintly cowboy's spurs.

 

[JillGat]

The real Cowboy Bar (Vicente Fernandez, singing one of my favorite of his songs)

 

[rappahannock_rev]

Hobbled through El Ganso midday on Tues Sept 21, 2021. The Meson Cowboy was closed, and looked a bit derelict. Pity.

 

[donalomahony]

Hobbled through El Ganso midday on Tues Sept 21, 2021. The Meson Cowboy was closed, and looked a bit derelict. Pity.

How you doing?

 

[Bob Howard]

Has anyone the seen the guy playing the banjo, usually just outside of the Cowboy Bar. I saw him in 2016 playing a five-string banjo for tips. I have played the banjo for too many decades too acknowledge. In 2018 I brought him a few sets of picks--he had been trying to play without them, and may not have actually known about picks as well as a banjo capo. So, I gave them to him after showing them how it enhanced the sound. In a more macro sense, I wonder how many pre-Covid Camino characters and bars like the Cowboy Bar will ultimately survive.

 

[rappahannock_rev]

How you doing?

Recovering, thank you. Wearing the immobilizing Frankenstein Boot I should have gotten 13 September, when I broke my ankle outside Burgos --- but didn't get till I arrived home in October. Stupid, stupid, stupid!

(It would have made a wretched trail boot, however.)

 

[VNwalking]

Recovering, thank you. Wearing the immobilizing Frankenstein Boot I should have gotten 13 September, when I broke my ankle outside Burgos --- but didn't get till I arrived home in October. Stupid, stupid, stupid!

(It would have made a wretched trail boot, however.)

Wait, what?!

Don't kick yourself with that boot, @rappahannock_rev . Broken ankles pretending to be sprained ones are really common.

 

[VNwalking]

looked a bit derelict. Pity.

It always looked this way to me, to be honest.
I grew up in a place where tourist traps are are a dime a dozen. The cowboy bar had the same vibe, and so I've always walked right by. A centro social in a small village is much more special place.

 

[Esperanza]

The real Cowboy Bar (Vicente Fernandez, singing one of my favorite of his songs)

Nobody cries in his tequila better than Vicente.

 

[Bob Howard]

Doesn't feel like think a tourist trap to me. No tourists. But it might be a Pilgrim trip, kind of like the Elvis Bar.

 

[Bob Howard]

Nobody cries in his tequila better than Vicente.

I'm a long time Mariachi fan. And as Experanza is obviously aware, Vincente es El Rey del Mariachi. I would wager that there is nary a cantina jukebox in Mexico without him. Or any number of other Mariachi greats for that matter. Which makes me recall that I don't think I have ever seen a jukebox in a bar on the Camino. Maybe I just didn't notice.

 

[VNwalking]

No tourists

Haha, wanna bet? We're all turistas. Have been for a millenium, no matter how holy our purpose.

But that's another topic.

 

[Bob Howard]

So, all the albergues are tourist traps inasmuch as we're all turistas?

 

[Esperanza]

@Bob Howard Yep, ranchero fan here as well as telenovelas. Here’s an older Vicente in a happier mood. (“When the Heart Commands” from “Fierce Love” - it sounds better in Spanish, lol)

 

[C clearly]

Ah, folks, we seem to be getting a bit off topic now!

 

[Bob Howard]

C clearly, we won't exchange any more videos, but the "tourist" vs "pilgrim" discussion might be worthwhile.

 

[trecile]

C clearly, we won't exchange any more videos, but the "tourist" vs "pilgrim" discussion might be worthwhile.

Nope.

 

[C clearly]

the "tourist" vs "pilgrim" discussion might be worthwhile.

Not on this thread, so a bunch of posts have been deleted. As a warning, the discussion on any thread has a tendency to go south (deteriorate) very fast.

 

[Kathar1na]

August 19, 2021: Diario de un peregrino: 23ª etapa, Astorga - Foncebadón, Cope TV series, interview with Ramiro, owner of the Cowboy bar, El Ganso, starting at around 5:45 into the video.

It is in Spanish, easy to understand but I did not listen to it, being neither much interested in it and not having visited the Cowboy bar or the Elvis bar for that matter. I might listen to the video later to practice my Spanish. The chats that Javier Escartín has with people he meets every day on his way to Santiago are actually quite pleasant to listen to; I had watched some of the earlier videos in this TV series. It sounds like the Cowboy bar was closed during the pandemia and now it is open again under the same management. And also, that we might worry a bit too much about things that didn't happen. .

And oh, yes, this bar is apparently one of the "sitios miticos del Camino". We may have to accept that there is no uniform view about the mythical sites of the Camino, whether that is el Mesón Cowboy or el Cruz de Ferro.

Diario de un peregrino: 23ª etapa, Astorga - Foncebadón

Javier Escartín conocerá en esta nueva etapa un abanico de historias de vida y superacion de peregrinos, además de personas significativas del Camino

www.cope.es

 

[mspath]

Indeed.
De gustibus non est disputandum/ In matters of taste, there can be no disputes

 

[donalomahony]

 

[alexwalker]

I will not miss the Cowboy Bar. Was there once. The site to the left is nicer. A good resting place for a cold beer.

 

[Bob Howard]

I would note that the Cowboy Bar has been around since 1991. The Alto del Person sculptures were completed in 1996.

August 19, 2021: Diario de un peregrino: 23ª etapa, Astorga - Foncebadón, Cope TV series, interview with Ramiro, owner of the Cowboy bar, El Ganso, starting at around 5:45 into the video.

It is in Spanish, easy to understand but I did not listen to it, being neither much interested in it and not having visited the Cowboy bar or the Elvis bar for that matter. I might listen to the video later to practice my Spanish. The chats that Javier Escartín has with people he meets every day on his way to Santiago are actually quite pleasant to listen to; I had watched some of the earlier videos in this TV series. It sounds like the Cowboy bar was closed during the pandemia and now it is open again under the same management. And also, that we might worry a bit too much about things that didn't happen. .

And oh, yes, this bar is apparently one of the "sitios miticos del Camino". We may have to accept that there is no uniform view about the mythical sites of the Camino, whether that is el Mesón Cowboy or el Cruz de Ferro.

Diario de un peregrino: 23ª etapa, Astorga - Foncebadón

Javier Escartín conocerá en esta nueva etapa un abanico de historias de vida y superacion de peregrinos, además de personas significativas del Camino

www.cope.es

 

[David with new Kit!]

September 28th 2021 - Cerrado.

But, I agree with @alexwalker, the cafe stop to the left of it is larger, with more seating, maybe slightly less iconic.

BTW - Bar Elvis was closed when I passed it a few days earlier, maybe its gone the same way?

 

[mspath]

Perhap Elvis has at last "seen the writing on the wall."

 

[Bristle Boy]

Perhap Elvis has at last "seen the writing on the wall."
View attachment 112251

Or left the building.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Perhap Elvis has at last "seen the writing on the wall."
View attachment 112249

I rather enjoyed the Elvis Bar in a quirky way. I recall the owner chatty, friendly, and he sliced off ham samples for us from the big leg. He was quite a character. The bathroom was outside around the corner somewhere and I practically stumbled on it.

 

[alexwalker]

BTW - Bar Elvis was closed when I passed it a few days earlier, maybe its gone the same way?

The last two times I passed there, it was closed. If I am not mistaken, the man who ran it has died a couple of years ago.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

The last two times I passed there, it was closed. If I am not mistaken, the man who ran it has died a couple of years ago.

How sad. He was quite "alive" in late April 2017.

 

[Kathar1na]

The last two times I passed there, it was closed. If I am not mistaken, the man who ran it has died a couple of years ago.

Are you sure? There was a thread in 2019 where some people thought that the bar was closed and the owner, Sinin, was gone. However, at the same time, there was an article posted by a well-known Camino personality, Anton Pombo, who did an interview with Sinin https://www.gronze.com/articulos/entrevistamos-sinin-dueno-peculiar-bar-elvis-reliegos-18791 in August 2019, and at least one other forum member reported that the owner was alive and kicking because they has seen him very recently.

There is also an article in El Correo from this summer where they describe their encounter with the Elvis Bar in Reliegos as follows (see below). That really sounds like the legendary Sinin!

What we need to know is whether the Elvis bar in Reliegos is open late into the night. That it is closed when we walk past during the day means nothing.

In Reliegos, the Elvis's bar has its door open, but as soon as I peep in, its owner drops out of the darkness like a phantom. "I'm sorry, mate, what a night it has been. I'm not opening today", and he unceremoniously closes the door, dazzled by the brightness of the day. He must be a vampire.​

Dated August 11, 2021​

Del adobe a las vidrieras

León es un territorio de contrastes: entre Tierra de Campos, de vocación agrícola, y el Bierzo minero hay 60 grises intermedios

www.elcorreo.com

 

[Camino Chrissy]

It doesn't take much for rumors to get started and continue, both in life and here on the forum. I will say that in 2017 he didn't look like the healthiest guy and he also appeared to be "flying as high as a kite".

 

[Kathar1na]

There is a German saying: Those who are said to be dead live longer - Totgesagte leben länger.

Perhaps our threads are actively increasing the life expectancy of both Ramiro, the owner of the Cowboy bar in El Ganso, and of Sinin, the owner of the Elvis bar in Reliegos, and of their establishments. Good work, folks!

 

[Marc S.]

As far as I know the Elvis Bar is still open. I found some recent photo's on a blog of someone visiting the place this October. I have read rumours before about the apparent death of the owner, but it seem to me that (like Elvis himself) he is still alive. Hope to revisit the place some day - I really liked the atmosphere in there.

 

[Kathar1na]

It doesn't take much for rumors to get started and continue, both in life and here on the forum. I will say that in 2017 he didn't look like the healthiest guy and he also appeared to be "flying as high as a kite".

You mean to say that the owner of the Elvis bar reminded you of Keith Richards?

 

[Camino Chrissy]

You mean to say that the owner of the Elvis bar reminded you of Keith Richards?

You just out-did yourself! Great pun.

 

[Kathar1na]

These reviews (see below) were posted in recent weeks about the Elvis bar in Reliegos and its owner Sinin. Take your pick. From what I've read, it's an owner who knows how to enjoy the company of his guests. Maybe he has no longer the stamina to be open from 10 am-4pm and from 6pm-12 am (12 hours!), perhaps even longer, every day of the week. Maybe he rations his opening hours these days and prefers to be open at night instead of during the day ...

 

[JillGat]

Does anybody know the history of the Cowboy bar; how that guy happened to come upon that theme? I have to admit I liked it because it was quirky and different. I didn't notice or care that the man behind the bar was cranky. It made me laugh and that's enough. There are "touristy" things along the Camino that I don't enjoy, but this little El Ganso site was just so out of the blue and unexpected for me. Touristy for me is buying a ticket in advance and waiting in line behind a huge Japanese tour group in Barcelona to walk through Gaudi's Sagrada cathedral, which I can do without.

 

[Becky 59]

The Cowboy bar was open 2 weeks ago; I had a very generous pour of vino blanco from the woman behind the counter, and 2 or 3 tables had locals.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

The Cowboy bar was open 2 weeks ago; I had a very generous pour of vino blanco from the woman behind the counter, and 2 or 3 tables had locals.

This is one rumor now officially put to rest by an eyewitness account, along with the Elvis Bar. Sounds like both are back in business.

 

[MaryLynn]

Hooray!

 

[simongx]

I passed it yesterday, it was closed.

 

[alexwalker]

Are you sure?

No. Last time I was there (2018), I asked about the place in another bar, and got the impression that he was gone. I will def. check in April when I pass there.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I passed it yesterday, it was closed.

Well another person confirmed it was open two weeks ago. Possibly the hours are more limited now, or even closed until Spring, as we are now into November.

 

[Isca-camigo]

September 28th 2021 - Cerrado.

But, I agree with @alexwalker, the cafe stop to the left of it is larger, with more seating, maybe slightly less iconic.

BTW - Bar Elvis was closed when I passed it a few days earlier, maybe its gone the same way?

Elvis Bar -I think he has the closed sign permanently on his door now, even if he is open, not sure why he does it, my guess is that he is getting fussy over who comes in, if anybody complains about the smoking or other things he can always point to the closed sign and ask you to leave. The video he was on recently was an Alvaro Lazaga video blog.

 

[Kathar1na]

Elvis Bar -I think he has the closed sign permanently on his door now, even if he is open, not sure why he does it, my guess is that he is getting fussy over who comes in, if anybody complains about the smoking or other things he can always point to the closed sign and ask you to leave. The video he was on recently was an Alvaro Lazaga video blog.

Is it just this photo (see below) from the summary of Alvaro Lazaga's most recent Camino or is the owner of the Elvis Bar in Reliegos also in another recent videoclip by Alvaro Lazaga? He certainly looks very much alive to me.

 

[alexwalker]

Elvis Bar -I think he has the closed sign permanently on his door now, even if he is open, not sure why he does it, my guess is that he is getting fussy over who comes in, if anybody complains about the smoking or other things he can always point to the closed sign and ask you to leave. The video he was on recently was an Alvaro Lazaga video blog.

I went in the first time I came there. I got bad vibes, and went to the neighbour. Been doing that since.

EDIT: Ooops: I meant the Cowboy bar!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I went in the first time I came there. I got bad vibes, and went to the neighbour. Been doing that dince.

Well the owner is a "character" for sure, but he was extremely friendly. It was quite an experience I've not forgotten...I'd stop in again.

 

[alexwalker]

Is it just this photo (see below) from the summary of Alvaro Lazaga's most recent Camino or is the owner of the Elvis Bar in Reliegos also in another recent videoclip by Alvaro Lazaga? He certainly looks very much alive to me.

View attachment 113117

It certainly looks like the Elvis Bar guy!

 

[alexwalker]

Well the owner is a "character" for sure, but he was extremely friendly. It was quite an experience I've not forgotten...I'd stop in again.

See my edited post: I mixed Elvis and Cowboy. Yes, the Elvis Bar guy was veery friendly: Fed me free jamon with my beer! And shared my smoking inside . I have now been smoke-free for 2 1/2 years...

 

[Camino Chrissy]

See my edited post: I mixed Elvis and Cowboy. Yes, the Elvis Bar guy was veery friendly: Fed me free jamon with my beer!

Us too, Alex! Jamon cut off the big leg right in front of us...see my post #46.
That would never happen in the US from my experience.

 

[Kathar1na]

24th October 2021 - I think that's settled now: The Elvis bar is not closed for good and the owner Sinin is alive. Watch the video from around 5:30 when Alvaro Lazago pays a surprise visit to his friend Sinin.

 

[alexwalker]

24th October 2021 - I think that's settled now: The Elvis bar is not closed for good and the owner Sinin is alive. Watch the video from around 5:30 when Alvaro Lazago pays a surprise visit to his friend Sinin.

That's The Man. Relieved. Thanks.