Stay in Borres or Campiello?

[NualaOC]

I'm putting together a very tentative plan for our Camino del Salvador/Primitivo this Autumn. We'd like to take the Hospitales route, unless the weather makes it dangerous to do so. I think that means we should ideally stay in Borres and if possible, book beds in Berducedo for the next night (thanks @peregrina2000 for the heads-up on this in another thread).

My questions for those of you who have walked the Hospitales route:
1. I see that Campiello is about 3kms before Borres. Is it realistic to walk from Campiello to Berducedo? Campiello seems to have more accommodation options, so depending on where we stayed the previous night, we might end up wanting to stop there. However, I'd be interested to know if there are any compelling reasons to start from Borres, rather than Campiello.
2. According to Gronze, the walk from Campiello to Berducedo is about 29kms. This is within our comfort zone - BUT - I've seem some comments about variances in the estimated distances on the Primitivo. To anyone who has walked from Campiello to Berducedo, did it 'feel' like 29kms, or did you end up wishing that you had started 3kms later in Borres?

Thanks in anticipation!

 

[Pelegrin]

What I remember is a lot of road from Campiello to Borres.
Another possility is going to Pola and taking a taxi back to Borres the following day. I like Pola I think that deserves a visit and the descent to Pola from Alto de la Lavadoira is beautiful. If the weather is not good you can continue to Puerto del Palo from Pola.

 

[NualaOC]

What I remember is a lot of road from Campiello to Borres.
Another possility is going to Pola and taking a taxi back to Borres the following day. I like Pola I think that deserves a visit and the descent to Pola from Alto de la Lavadoira is beautiful. If the weather is not good you can continue to Puerto del Palo from Pola.

Thanks so much @Pelegrin, I hadn't even considered that option. I was just thinking of A or B, but it's so good to know that there is also a very good 'C'! I really like this suggestion - especially if we are unsure about the weather.

We are lucky that we will have plenty of days for this Camino, so we don't need to plan a specific schedule. However, this is one stage where I thought a little research would be very useful.

 

[peregrina2000]

I'm putting together a very tentative plan for our Camino del Salvador/Primitivo this Autumn. We'd like to take the Hospitales route, unless the weather makes it dangerous to do so. I think that means we should ideally stay in Borres and if possible, book beds in Berducedo for the next night (thanks @peregrina2000 for the heads-up on this in another thread).

My questions for those of you who have walked the Hospitales route:
1. I see that Campiello is about 3kms before Borres. Is it realistic to walk from Campiello to Berducedo? Campiello seems to have more accommodation options, so depending on where we stayed the previous night, we might end up wanting to stop there. However, I'd be interested to know if there are any compelling reasons to start from Borres, rather than Campiello.
2. According to Gronze, the walk from Campiello to Berducedo is about 29kms. This is within our comfort zone - BUT - I've seem some comments about variances in the estimated distances on the Primitivo. To anyone who has walked from Campiello to Berducedo, did it 'feel' like 29kms, or did you end up wishing that you had started 3kms later in Borres?

Thanks in anticipation!

Hi, Nuala,

I've only stayed in Campiello, and hopefully someone who has recently slept in Borres can comment. What I've seen about Borres is that the big improvement is that there is now a bar there that serves meals. The owner is, I think, also the hospitalera, and reports are varied about the upkeep of the albergue. Better than the previous unattended state, but I've read many complaints about hygiene there even since she has "taken over." If I have this wrong, I hope someone will correct me.

The ascent from Borres to Puerto de Palo is not a strenuous one. It may be a bit more vigorous than "gentle" but it is nothing at all like the SJPP to Orisson, for example. In fact, it is more gentle and less elevation gain than going from Pola de Allande to Puerto de Palo. My memory is the same as Pelegrin's, that it's all on the side of the road from Campiello to Borres.

The last time I was on the Primitivo, my little Camino family and I all stayed in Herminia's albergue. It is fine, extremely clean, a bit institutional perhaps (essentially it's inside a big metal barn), but has good facilities inside, including industrial strength washer and dryer. Herminia would not serve us breakfast till, I believe, 7:30, telling us that it was because it makes no sense to leave earlier because of fog. I have had enough dealings with Herminia to know that she shades the truth to fit her own interests. But even with that relatively late departure, it was well after 8, probably closer to 8:30, we arrived fine in Berducedo. Mid afternoon, after a long lunch stop up at the Puerto de Palo. The worst part of the day was the rocky descent to Montefurado.

I'm hoping to be there again this summer, and will probably stay in the other private albergue in Campiello, have you seen the information on that? http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/albergue-casa-ricardo#bloque-informacion -- I think someone said they have a nice litle garden out back. I think it's nice to spread the wealth a bit, and Herminia does have quite an empire.

What I would probably do is leave earlier than I did from Campiello, have a coffee in the bar in Borres if you're unsure about the weather. But unless conditions are terrible, you should be fine on the Hospitales part. The signage is extremely good. Even in really bad visibility, with two of you, one could stay at a marker while the other went to the next one. Once he/she found it, the one who stayed behind would follow the voice. The markers are never far apart, always within earshot, and usually visible from one to the next in good weather, so you would not be in danger of losing each other. But of course the whole point of walking Hospitales is the views, so you might choose the Pola alternative not so much for safety as for comfort.

I've also stayed in Pola de Allande, in the albergue once and in the hotel once, and the hotel is very nice, not expensive, with a restaurant that serves traditional Asturian food. That means beans and lots of meat -- people come from all over to eat there and it is also very reasonably priced. The walk from Pola up to the Puerto de Palo (where the two routes join) is lovely, kind of reminds me of the pre-AVE walk between Aciberos and Lubian on the Sanabres. So once again, there's no bad decision!

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Campiello is quite the pilgrim center with restaurant, large dorm, hotel, store, etc. Borres is basic, not impeccable (like Esclampero, the muni in Berducedo) but it will do the job. Nice small bar in the village 500 meters away where they can even make you a bacadillo for the day ahead.

I am a 20km a day girl, so I would not have wanted to walk an extra 3 km that day. In fact I walked to the first road crossing at Alto de la Muerta (?) and called a taxi and did not walk to Alto de Palo and down to Berducedo, a good thing considering even the super fit crawled into Berducedo very tired.

If you decide to stay in Borres don't arrive too late as those who did last May when I was there ended up sleeping on the picnic table and under a tractor. Not ideal for the trek waiting for you the next day.

 

[peregrina2000]

Campiello is quite the pilgrim center with restaurant, large dorm, hotel, store, etc. Borres is basic, not impeccable (like Esclampero, the muni in Berducedo) but it will do the job. Nice small bar in the village 500 meters away where they can even make you a bacadillo for the day ahead.

I am a 20km a day girl, so I would not have wanted to walk an extra 3 km that day. In fact I walked to the first road crossing at Alto de la Muerta (?) and called a taxi and did not walk to Alto de Palo and down to Berducedo, a good thing considering even the super fit crawled into Berducedo very tired.

If you decide to stay in Borres don't arrive too late as those who did last May when I was there ended up sleeping on the picnic table and under a tractor. Not ideal for the trek waiting for you the next day.

Anemone, not to derail this thread, but I know Nuala has been wondering about Berducedo as well. You told me in another thread that the CAsa Marques (the bar/restaurant) now offers rooms as well. Do you know anything about those rooms and how they are? Since the private place gets so many reports of rudeness, I wonder if that's a better alternative. I've found a phone number for them but no info on accommodation. Thanks, Laurie

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Anemone, not to derail this thread, but I know Nuala has been wondering about Berducedo as well. You told me in another thread that the CAsa Marques (the bar/restaurant) now offers rooms as well. Do you know anything about those rooms and how they are? Since the private place gets so many reports of rudeness, I wonder if that's a better alternative. I've found a phone number for them but no info on accommodation. Thanks, Laurie

I did not see the rooms but the people who were lucky enough to find accommodation there were satisfied.

 

[NualaOC]

Hi, Nuala,

I've only stayed in Campiello, and hopefully someone who has recently slept in Borres can comment. What I've seen about Borres is that the big improvement is that there is now a bar there that serves meals. The owner is, I think, also the hospitalera, and reports are varied about the upkeep of the albergue. Better than the previous unattended state, but I've read many complaints about hygiene there even since she has "taken over." If I have this wrong, I hope someone will correct me.

The ascent from Borres to Puerto de Palo is not a strenuous one. It may be a bit more vigorous than "gentle" but it is nothing at all like the SJPP to Orisson, for example. In fact, it is more gentle and less elevation gain than going from Pola de Allande to Puerto de Palo. My memory is the same as Pelegrin's, that it's all on the side of the road from Campiello to Borres.

The last time I was on the Primitivo, my little Camino family and I all stayed in Herminia's albergue. It is fine, extremely clean, a bit institutional perhaps (essentially it's inside a big metal barn), but has good facilities inside, including industrial strength washer and dryer. Herminia would not serve us breakfast till, I believe, 7:30, telling us that it was because it makes no sense to leave earlier because of fog. I have had enough dealings with Herminia to know that she shades the truth to fit her own interests. But even with that relatively late departure, it was well after 8, probably closer to 8:30, we arrived fine in Berducedo. Mid afternoon, after a long lunch stop up at the Puerto de Palo. The worst part of the day was the rocky descent to Montefurado.

I'm hoping to be there again this summer, and will probably stay in the other private albergue in Campiello, have you seen the information on that? http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/albergue-casa-ricardo#bloque-informacion -- I think someone said they have a nice litle garden out back. I think it's nice to spread the wealth a bit, and Herminia does have quite an empire.

What I would probably do is leave earlier than I did from Campiello, have a coffee in the bar in Borres if you're unsure about the weather. But unless conditions are terrible, you should be fine on the Hospitales part. The signage is extremely good. Even in really bad visibility, with two of you, one could stay at a marker while the other went to the next one. Once he/she found it, the one who stayed behind would follow the voice. The markers are never far apart, always within earshot, and usually visible from one to the next in good weather, so you would not be in danger of losing each other. But of course the whole point of walking Hospitales is the views, so you might choose the Pola alternative not so much for safety as for comfort.

I've also stayed in Pola de Allande, in the albergue once and in the hotel once, and the hotel is very nice, not expensive, with a restaurant that serves traditional Asturian food. That means beans and lots of meat -- people come from all over to eat there and it is also very reasonably priced. The walk from Pola up to the Puerto de Palo (where the two routes join) is lovely, kind of reminds me of the pre-AVE walk between Aciberos and Lubian on the Sanabres. So once again, there's no bad decision!

Buen camino, Laurie

This is fantastic information Laurie, thank you! Good to know that the ascent isn't too strenuous. Although we never consciously train for our Caminos, we are fairly regular hill walkers so we should hopefully be OK.

Yes, I noticed the information about the new private albergue in Campiello. It looks very nice and it would be hard to walk past it, especially if the one in Borres isn't so good. I would really like to have a good night's sleep before a 29km walk. An extra 3km of road walking sounds like a good trade off.

As you say, it seems that there are no bad decisions! And since we're under no major time pressures this year we might even be able to do both Hospitales and Pola de Allande.

I am a 20km a day girl, so I would not have wanted to walk an extra 3 km that day. In fact I walked to the first road crossing at Alto de la Muerta (?) and called a taxi and did not walk to Alto de Palo and down to Berducedo, a good thing considering even the super fit crawled into Berducedo very tired.

If you decide to stay in Borres don't arrive too late as those who did last May when I was there ended up sleeping on the picnic table and under a tractor. Not ideal for the trek waiting for you the next day.

Thanks Anemone - good to know that there are taxi options to break the stage if needed. And thanks for your observation about arriving too late in Borres. That was one my concerns and a reason why I would be very tempted to stop in Campiello.

I love the Camino Primitivo forum! I've been reading through the threads and the information is invaluable.

 

[peregrino_tom]

Us three started from Campiello, went over Hospitales on a clear late September day. We picnicked high up, just before making that slightly tricky descent that Laurie mentions. Later we stopped in Berducedo for refreshments and then as the weather was still glorious, strolled on to La Mesa and stayed at the albergue there. It was such an exhilarating day it seemed a shame to stop.

 

[peregrina2000]

Us three started from Campiello, went over Hospitales on a clear late September day. We picnicked high up, just before making that slightly tricky descent that Laurie mentions. Later we stopped in Berducedo for refreshments and then as the weather was still glorious, strolled on to La Mesa and stayed at the albergue there. It was such an exhilarating day it seemed a shame to stop.

Tom, was it you who introduced me to the second albergue in Campiello, or did you stay with Herminia?

 

[NualaOC]

Us three started from Campiello, went over Hospitales on a clear late September day. We picnicked high up, just before making that slightly tricky descent that Laurie mentions. Later we stopped in Berducedo for refreshments and then as the weather was still glorious, strolled on to La Mesa and stayed at the albergue there. It was such an exhilarating day it seemed a shame to stop.

Thank you Tom, that sounds like a perfect Camino day. Not exactly a stroll, though - 34 kms or thereabouts!

 

[Rajy62]

I stayed in Borreas in June/14. The alb is good, the bathrooms seems to have been updated. Only down side is there are no choices for dinner other than the friendly Bar. Motivation to break here would be to shorten the next stage (25k) via the Hospitales route. It was a very hot day, by the time i reached Largo (4km before Berducedo), i was exhausted and was able to arrange a taxi from the Bar. You might want to reserve accommodation in Berducedo as this is the point where all routes converge.

 

[NualaOC]

Thank you @Rajy62. Yes, I think we will phone ahead to Berducedo to book our beds. I would hate to be turned away after a long walk!

 

[Pelegrin]

Anemone, not to derail this thread, but I know Nuala has been wondering about Berducedo as well. You told me in another thread that the CAsa Marques (the bar/restaurant) now offers rooms as well. Do you know anything about those rooms and how they are? Since the private place gets so many reports of rudeness, I wonder if that's a better alternative. I've found a phone number for them but no info on accommodation. Thanks, Laurie

I was in the private place on the last week June 2013. It is true that the owner didn´t seem very friendly at first. But we talked in the evening and at breakfast the following day . She gave me interesting information about the Allande council. The room was very good and it had breakfast included.
The following year (2014) I visited The Allande council as a tourist I tried to book in early June a room there for July but she told me that was full She also told me that the reservations had increased a lot, and finally she sent me to a casa rural 18 kms from Berducedo in Tremao (Valledor).
She is not rude (IMO). Maybe in summer months she is stressed for the hard work, because probably she is not accustumed yet to high occupations

 

[peregrino_tom]

Hi Laurie - no it wasn't me that introduced you to the 2nd albergue in Campiello. We stayed with Herminia. The evening meal wasn't great but it was worth it just to sit in that place with great hams and other unusual shop items on the wall and watch her orchestrate the various comings and goings of the villagers.
Hi Nuala - I guess it is quite a long way, but sometimes if the mood is right you just get carried along on it

 

[timr]

@NualaOC @peregrina2000 I stayed in Borres a couple of weeks ago and it is fine. Very clean and well cared for. About 20 beds, and plenty of colchones for latecomers. Not over-spacious, but not over-cramped either. The hospitalera (Maria I think) looked in in the late afternoon and was very friendly. You need to go beyond the albergue up to the bar, another 500m at most, to book in and pay. Bar very friendly. There is a microwave only in the albergue, no other cooking facilities but there is cake(!) and coffee and tea, donativo. Everyone who stayed there seemed happy with their choice.
I stopped for lunch in Herminia's in Campiello, but it was like a railway station (about 2pm on a Sunday), bursting with people (many local people I guess who seemed very happy - it was Mother's Day and there were family parties). Nowhere to sit. I went back to Casa Ricardo a few metres before. Nice, gentle, quiet - much more my style. Horses for courses.... I didn't look into the albergue over the road from the bar, but if I were to stay in Campiello, I am sure that is where I would go. But I have no complaint against Herminia's - just the crowds.
The albergue in Berducedo almost identical to that in Borres, in build, but not in upkeep. So I stayed at the private albergue, Camin Antiguo, in Berducedo. Again I thought it was fine. I didn't find the owner rude at all - in fact quite friendly. Very large room with 10 bunks. Clean and comfortable. Good kitchen with free coffee and tea and milk. Three latecomers were given three settee/beds to sleep on. I think there are rooms also, but I didn't see them. Only possibly problem was that the wifi didn't work very well - you had to hold your phone against the kitchen wall to get a weak signal!
In short: would stay in Borres again. Would stay in private albergue in Berducedo again. Would stay in Casa Ricardo if for some reason I was to stay in Campiello.

 

[NualaOC]

@NualaOC @peregrina2000 I stayed in Borres a couple of weeks ago and it is fine. Very clean and well cared for. About 20 beds, and plenty of colchones for latecomers. Not over-spacious, but not over-cramped either. The hospitalera (Maria I think) looked in in the late afternoon and was very friendly. You need to go beyond the albergue up to the bar, another 500m at most, to book in and pay. Bar very friendly. There is a microwave only in the albergue, no other cooking facilities but there is cake(!) and coffee and tea, donativo. Everyone who stayed there seemed happy with their choice.
I stopped for lunch in Herminia's in Campiello, but it was like a railway station (about 2pm on a Sunday), bursting with people (many local people I guess who seemed very happy - it was Mother's Day and there were family parties). Nowhere to sit. I went back to Casa Ricardo a few metres before. Nice, gentle, quiet - much more my style. Horses for courses.... I didn't look into the albergue over the road from the bar, but if I were to stay in Campiello, I am sure that is where I would go. But I have no complaint against Herminia's - just the crowds.
The albergue in Berducedo almost identical to that in Borres, in build, but not in upkeep. So I stayed at the private albergue, Camin Antiguo, in Berducedo. Again I thought it was fine. I didn't find the owner rude at all - in fact quite friendly. Very large room with 10 bunks. Clean and comfortable. Good kitchen with free coffee and tea and milk. Three latecomers were given three settee/beds to sleep on. I think there are rooms also, but I didn't see them. Only possibly problem was that the wifi didn't work.
In short: would stay in Borres again. Would stay in private albergue in Berducedo again. Would stay in Casa Ricardo if for some reason I was to stay in Campiello.

Fantastic information @timr, thank you for taking the time to share it.

 

[caminka]

hello everyone!

I just spotted on http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/albergue-camino-primitivo that there is a new private albergue in Berducedo, called Camino Primitivo, apparently opened at the end of May. 18 bunk beds, €12, with a restaurant serving lunch and dinner. soon planing to introduce a washing machine and wifi. 680/625 036.

a while back (last year) I also came across one reference to another private albergue in Berducedo with 18 beds for €10. 689/981 678. perhaps this is the same being reopened?

any confirmation of (both) albergue(s) really being up and running will be welcome to all (us) future primitivo pilgrims.

 

[micamino73]

Don't stay in Borres the place is filthy.

 

[TerryB]

Don't stay in Borres the place is filthy.

This is a very negative statement. However, because of your comment on another thread -

Saturday morning the weather was spectacular, I was going to walk to Borres and stay there, but took at taxi from Tineo to Borres and did the Hospitales route.

it does provoke a simple question:- "How do you know if you did not stay there?"

Tio Tel

 

[micamino73]

This is a very negative statement. However, because of your comment on another thread - it does provoke a simple question:- "How do you know if you did not stay there?"

Tio Tel

Hi, I spoke to a Belgium Pilgrim who stayed there and that was his impression.

 

[timr]

I stayed in Borres in May 2016 and you can read my positive comment above.....

 

[Dave]

Borres has a long-standing reputation for disrepair, based on the reality that it was indeed poorly tended to for quite a long time. My understanding, though, is that it has come under new management over the last two years and is much, much better. I would be interested in hearing from those who have slept their lately--the reputation keeps many from even considering it.

 

[timr]

@Dave A good chance to thank you for your guidebook which I used on the Norte last year and the Primitivo this year. I would stand by this <a href="https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/stay-in-borres-or-campiello.39356/#post-413991">Stay in Borres or Campiello?</a> based on my personal stay about 6 weeks ago. I agree it would be good to hear from others as the season progresses.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Again 'hearsay' but we have heard that Borres albergue is now well maintained so hopefully the good reports will come in to replace the negative.