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Stop Las Herrerías, La Faba or La Laguna before O'C

design4life

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
CF 2014-18 Kumano Kodo 2019 Portu 2022 Inglés 2023
Hi there!
I return in May for my third walk along the third-third, Leon To Santiago. I'll walk solo for around ten days and meet up with a friend on a Sunday in O'Cebreiro. She is taking the bus from Madrid, will arrive Pedrafita around 4pm, and then take a taxi up to meet me.
My question is, where do you suggest I stay the night before, Saturday?
I estimate I'll be starting out Saturday morning in Trabadelo.
I know there is a big climb in here, so I'd like to pace myself and divide the climbing and walking times as "kindly" as possible between Saturday and Sunday.
There seem to be three possible Saturday night stops: Las Herrerías, La Faba or La Laguna.
Suggestions? Thank you!!
 
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We stayed overnight in Trabadelo. Next day walked to La Faba and stayed in the Albergue. Next day walked up to O'Cebreiro.
Note: coffee stops at las Herrerias and La Laguna to give you a rest en route.
 
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All depends on how far you want to walk that day. Laguna de Castillan is only about 17 km from Trabadelo, and less than 3 km from O Cebreiro. On my two previous Caminos I walked from Trabadelo to Laguna, arriving in the early afternoon without too much difficulty. And I am an old guy.
 
Las Herrerias del Valcarce [ spelling ] is an extraordinary village . If I could I would be back there in a heartbeat .
There is something about it that resonated with my soul, very few places on this Earth have had such an effect , this one certainly did . There are a few decent cafe's and a really nice B&B built around the owners Grandfather's forge . As you enter the village you cross a small bridge and pass an albergue of sorts dedicated to the ' alternative ' lifestyle, it is run by a dedicated and idealistic young man who is well worth talking to .
Take the time also to walk up the incredibly steep road to the now closed village Church for a view of the valley below and the stream that cuts though it .
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I agree with all of the above! I would add to also take the weather into consideration. We walked from Herrerias to O'Cebreiro on a beautiful sunny day (there was a break in the rain that day) and the views were spectacular. The next day, the rain was back and the view was hidden in the cloud. So if the weather ends up being an issue, I would adjust your plan for maximum viewing pleasure. :)
 
I haven’t ever stayed in Las Herrerias, but it is a lovely. Village and I imagine it would be a great place to spend a night Given the choice between La Faba and Laguna, I personally prefer Laguna, but both are pleasant.
And, though you didn’t ask, I’ll add a recommendation for Casa Susi in Trabadelo: It opened last year and i think it’s one of, if not THE, very best albergue on the Frances. Susi is a wonderful Australian woman who’s walked many Caminos, and she’s a force of nature. That night was the best sleep I’ve had in four Caminos, and the communal dinner provided some of the best food too, all made with veges fresh from the garden... Just saying...
 
La Faba is over halfway up the climb but is probably the best option to balance the climb. I have heard really good things about Albergue Pequeno Potala in Ruitelan but last time we stopped in Casa Lixa in Las Herreiras (which was excellent) and did the climb fresh in the morning.
 
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I'm an old guy and walked from Trabadelo to La Laguna on a day of high heat and unrelenting sun by early afternoon. Stayed the night in La Laguna and had a gentle early morning climb to O'Ceibiero the following day in time for second breakfast. Simple albergue and bar, very pleasant. Cracking beer, but that may have been the heat, and reasonable food although little choice. Having said that the goats cheese and membrillo was excellent.

Las Herrieras is a lovely village and one I will visit again.
 
Wow, thank you all. I'm sorry not to have replied earlier but I didn't get the usual notifications of your replies.
So many choices! I admit to being concerned about climbing again on this last section of the Francés. My last Camino was Burgos to Leon, and I'm a city dweller -- so it's been flat, flat, flat walking for me for several years. During this time, reluctantly, I've also gotten older, older, older.;) So my priorities are spacing and pacing ascents, and avoiding upper berths if not bunk beds all together.
Deb R -- thanks for Casa Susi recommendation. As a Susie myself, I am always happy to find another ...
 
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I really like the albergue in La Faba just as you enter the village - next to the old church.
That'd be my choice.
I, too, really enjoyed my stay there in 2015. It's a lovely repurposed old stone building. Staying in La Faba made the final climb up to O'C the next morning much easier.
 
If staying at Laguna, just remember to stay out of the way of the cows and the accompanying big bull when the cows go for milking! Very nice relaxed atmosphere there... bulls aside :D
Thanks for the advice. I spent last August hiking in the North of England and so got very good at sharing the path with sheep.
 
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Almost as scary as mine !Bull.jpg
 
Yeah.
Him:
View media item 4975He's harmless behind a fence, but I certainly wouldn't get in his way.

We were having a beer at the tables outside the albergue when they all ambled past. He decided to stop no more than one foot from Peregrino Tez’s (my other halves chair) and check out the surroundings. Time stood still! :eek::D
 
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Wow, thank you all. I'm sorry not to have replied earlier but I didn't get the usual notifications of your replies.
So many choices! I admit to being concerned about climbing again on this last section of the Francés. My last Camino was Burgos to Leon, and I'm a city dweller -- so it's been flat, flat, flat walking for me for several years. During this time, reluctantly, I've also gotten older, older, older.;) So my priorities are spacing and pacing ascents, and avoiding upper berths if not bunk beds all together.
Deb R -- thanks for Casa Susi recommendation. As a Susie myself, I am always happy to find another ...
Your older-older reflections reminded me of one of the most inspiring folk I’ve met in all my Caminos. My first Camino, May 2013, climbing (trudging) up from Las Herrerias to La Faba on the road (it was wet and the shorter path was muddy)....an older gentleman strolled past me with a steady, unwavering pace. At the bar in La Faba we chatted: he was Canadian, 82 years young, walking his sixth Camino and he had finished his cafe con leche long before I reached the bar.
He also told me this: all along the way, when you meet folk, tell them that when you get to Santiago, you’ll go to the square in front of the cathedral at 11sm...or 2pm, or 7pm on every day ypu’re In town. And ask them to do the same. When you do, you’ll meet all the people who have been part of your journey.
I have done this ever since, and it worked every time.
I also know - without a doubt - that when i’m 82 I hope i’m like Henry, still walking Caminos...
That climb to O’Cebreiro has magic in it...just saying.
 
If staying at Laguna, just remember to stay out of the way of the cows and the accompanying big bull when the cows go for milking! Very nice relaxed atmosphere there... bulls aside :D

I remember that bull too. I was having a rest at the fountain in La Laguna and sudenly saw the bull, his cow and their calf coming up the road. I quickly srcambled behind the fountain and avidly watched as the whole family took their time drinking. it was a lovely scene but I didn't dare take a picture, lest the bull spotted something amiss. they left leasurely when they drank their fill and I dared start to breath again. phew!
 
Your older-older reflections reminded me of one of the most inspiring folk I’ve met in all my Caminos. My first Camino, May 2013, climbing (trudging) up from Las Herrerias to La Faba on the road (it was wet and the shorter path was muddy)....an older gentleman strolled past me with a steady, unwavering pace. At the bar in La Faba we chatted: he was Canadian, 82 years young, walking his sixth Camino and he had finished his cafe con leche long before I reached the bar.
He also told me this: all along the way, when you meet folk, tell them that when you get to Santiago, you’ll go to the square in front of the cathedral at 11sm...or 2pm, or 7pm on every day ypu’re In town. And ask them to do the same. When you do, you’ll meet all the people who have been part of your journey.
I have done this ever since, and it worked every time.
I also know - without a doubt - that when i’m 82 I hope i’m like Henry, still walking Caminos...
That climb to O’Cebreiro has magic in it...just saying.
Hahahaha -- Well, my hiking partner and I are still in our 60's and 70's. Sometimes we feel physically less resilient, but overall we feel more energised and open to life's great adventure than ever before. (I just hate bunkbeds.)
 
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I hope this helps?

I'm not sure I'd like to repeat Vega de Valcarce - O'Cebreiro. I know it's short but it was a little too tough for me to be honest.

Next year I'll be stopping at La Faba and walking to Tricastela the next day (26.3 kms) and then onto Sarria for a one-day stopover. If I walked onto O'Cebreiro then I'd end up, after a good days walk at Samos, too close to Sarria (only 15 kms away) to have a full day of walking so I'd overshoot Sarria and I don't want to do that. Mind you I could stop at Triacastela and have a very comfortable 25.5 kms to Sarria?


20150512_171737.jpg
 
I hope this helps?

I'm not sure I'd like to repeat Vega de Valcarce - O'Cebreiro. I know it's short but it was a little too tough for me to be honest.

Next year I'll be stopping at La Faba and walking to Tricastela the next day (26.3 kms) and then onto Sarria for a one-day stopover. If I walked onto O'Cebreiro then I'd end up, after a good days walk at Samos, too close to Sarria (only 15 kms away) to have a full day of walking so I'd overshoot Sarria and I don't want to do that. Mind you I could stop at Triacastela and have a very comfortable 25.5 kms to Sarria?


View attachment 40816
It’s a personal preference, but I tend to avoid staying in Sarria.
Mostly it’s to offset the end of my walk from the wave of folk who begin in Sarria, and partly because I really love the oasis feel of Casa Barbadelo. It’s maybe an hour beyond Sarria, with a pool and a good restaurant, splendid showers and a friendly enough vibe. Looks almost a bit like a resort, actually.
Everyone is different...
 
My preference was la Faba 2 out of 3 times. The third was push on right to OC. The albergue there is well run with a large kitchen and the hospiteleros were kind, knowledgable and friendly. There is a nice little chapel on the grounds if that suits. A small tienda is a few steps further on.
 
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I passed through La Faba in 2015 and stopped at the Refugio Vegetariano just long enough to rest my feet and enjoy some sort of delicious fruit juice....

And -- far out! -- it took me back to the late 60s/early 70s, when I was not the straight-laced clergyman I am today, and occasionally walked on the wild side. I freely admit that I didn't smell anything 'funny', but I left there thinking that there must surely be some secret greenhouses hidden back in the treees growing, well, who knows what.... ;)

And next time you bet I'll stay for the night! And find out!
 
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It’s a personal preference, but I tend to avoid staying in Sarria.

I understand how you feel because I stopped in Casa Barbadelo the second time I did the Frances and loved it. However, I don't mind the crowds in Sarria and love the walk along the river so will stay on a day to do that and have a lovely and welcome rest day in a place I like.
 
and partly because I really love the oasis feel of Casa Barbadelo.

I've stayed at Casa Barbdelo twice - it is like a resort! But the most interesting thing there isn't advertised. In the back room of the restaurant is a fantastic display of old sewing machines, cameras and typewriters!
sewing machine wall.jpg
The third was push on right to OC. The albergue there is well run with a large kitchen and the hospiteleros were kind, knowledgable and friendly.
Hmmm, quite the opposite of how I found the albergue there. In fact, it was the only albergue on the Camino that I decided that I definitely didn't want to stay in again! Sure, the kitchen was large and beautiful, but did you check to see if there was any cooking equipment there? I looked and didn't find any pots or pans. And the lone hospitalera that checked me in was as cold as the building. That said, I have fond memories of O Cebreiro, thanks to my fellow pilgrims.
My second Camino I opted for a private room above a bar.
 
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I hope this helps?

I'm not sure I'd like to repeat Vega de Valcarce - O'Cebreiro. I know it's short but it was a little too tough for me to be honest.

Next year I'll be stopping at La Faba and walking to Tricastela the next day (26.3 kms) and then onto Sarria for a one-day stopover. If I walked onto O'Cebreiro then I'd end up, after a good days walk at Samos, too close to Sarria (only 15 kms away) to have a full day of walking so I'd overshoot Sarria and I don't want to do that. Mind you I could stop at Triacastela and have a very comfortable 25.5 kms to Sarria?


View attachment 40816
Hi -- I really like the graphic you've photographed. Can you tell me which guidebook this is?
 
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We stayed at the lovely stone municipal albergue in La Faba and headed up to O'Cebreiro the following morning our first year. La Faba was a very nice experience and the hospitaleros were wonderful.
We stayed in La Portela de Valcarse the next time. The only good thing was we had a private room and bath. We pushed on to O'Cebreiro the next day and stayed in the municipal....I agree with Trecile on the experience, a "thumbs down".
 
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Has anyone stayed at Casa El Arbol in La Faba? I don't see it in any guidebooks or mentioned on the forum, but it has a nice website and FB page, and some Google reviews. 10 beds, some bunks, a few private. Maybe it's new?
 
It is the local bar which opened some rooms last year. Looks nice.
 
Casa El Arbol in La Faba
I've just returned home from my third walk and first I want to thank the forum members who helped me plan.
My only negative lodging experience -- nothing overtly dangerous, just unpleasant -- was at Casa El Arbol in La Faba.
But now I see a report of sexual harassment by the owner. The thread SOLO WOMEN TRAVELERS, where the attack was described, has been closed. So I want to add my voice -- to counter all those great online reviews.
I emailed for a single room reservation and the owner offered me a "king size" bedded room at an excellent price.
Upon arrival I went to the bar to check in. There was a woman cooking and another woman serving. I stood there for at least twenty minutes, regularly asking for help, and was completely ignored and then only grudgingly helped when I pleaded that I was very tired and desperately needed the room.
I checked into the room (with ordinary double -- there are no king beds in Europe) and found blood stains on the sheet and pillowcase. The housekeeper showed me that her bruised knuckles had caused the blood, and changed the sheets. But the stains were very obvious and I wondered whether she'd noticed them and just let them go.
No towel. The unfriendly woman from check-in explained that towels cost extra. I replied that with a private room a towel should be included. She returned with a towel.
There is one bathroom for all the rooms. That means ONE room, with ONE door, containing one open bathtub, sink, and toilet for ten beds. The wait even to use the toilet can be very long. The shower didn't work properly, until I heard someone complain.
The owner scheduled a salsa concert outside "for the peregrinos." The music was good but very loud, and it didn't stop until 10:30. I'm sure it disturbed early-rising pilgrims at the refugio as well as us.
Very loud rock music plays all the time in the bar/restaurant. At 7am, when you're contemplating a meditative mountain walk over coffee, it's particularly off-putting.
People rave about the "gastrobar" food. What they don't say is that the owner continually tries to remove your plate before you're done, presumably to turn over the table.
On their own, any of these complaints would be minor annoyances. The Camino rightly asks us to go with the flow. I don't like to use the term "customer service" to describe the hosting we receive as peregrinos, but this experience was simply SO negative compared to every albergue and hotel I've visited, over four years. My sense is that, with the increase in walkers and demands for accoms, the owner decided to get into the albergue act but thinks being a hospitalero means no more than setting aside some rooms to supplement his restaurant income.
Most important, I must have felt unsafe, because I blocked my door with furniture before I went to sleep.
And now, to hear this very troubling report about the owner's behavior, I feel compelled to add my voice. At the least, the vibe is bad; at worst, the place is unsafe.
Nothing that you describe sounds like a deal breaker to me. I wouldn't expect a towel to be provided unless I had a private bath. I've also stayed in an albergue that only had one bathroom similar to the one you describe for 12 or 14 pilgrims. I was concerned when I first arrived, but everything worked out.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Hi design4life,

It’s a great question. I ended up staying in Laguna, and walked the 2k into O Cebriero before I even was awake enough to realize I was there. A coffee set that straight.
I wanted to take the climb in small chunks, so I stayed in Trabadelo before Laguna, and can second the recommendation for Casa Susi. It was a highlight, operated by real people who want to get to know you over the evening communal meal.
Then, from Laguna to Triacastela.
There is some lovely walking in these parts.
If I do it again I’d probably do it the same way.

All the best,
Paul
 
Our flights are booked! My daughter (13) and I will walk from St Jean and then my son (15)and husband will join us in Ponferrada. She and I will stay in albergues as we go, but since there will be four of us, it will be July and just for piece of mind, I am booking from Ponferrada on to Santiago.
July 17 Ponferrada
July 18 San Nicolas Real Villa franca del Berzo (public swimming area nearby)
July 19 Las Herrerias (Pairiso del Bierzo ) OR Laguana (bar escuela takes a reservation)
July 20 Fonfria Casa de Lucas
July 21 Casa Barbadello Sarria
July 22 Portomarin (pool)

My questions are about the distance/ climbing on the 18th and 19th Las Herrerias looks so lovely but I am wondering if we should press on to La Laguana to make the next day easier and have enough time to Fonfria. Also Fonfria to Casa Barbadello, is that too much? I I haven't been able to find a place that takes reservations in La Faba, which so many people seem to recommend. Everyone is pretty fit but regardless of whether we can physically, I don't want everyone to be unhappy with days that might be too challenging.
Thank you!
 
When I last did that bit I went Ponferrada -- Villafranca -- Las Herrerias -- Fonfria -- Samos -- Sarria -- Portomarin. The weather was good. I had zero difficulties, and a wonderful experience.... I did book ahead, btw!

Don't know where you're staying in Ponferrada, but Los Templarios was fine for me... In Villafranca I did not then have the chance to stay @ San Nicholas Real, but that's where I'll probably stay next time.... Lots of good options in Villafranca.... In Las Herrerias I stayed at the rather opulent El Paraiso del Bierzo and can recommend it w/o hesitation.... Good restaurant.... Enjoyed the fruit juice at the hippy place in La Faba, but it's pretty quiet there and I know of no reason to stop in La Laguana.... Skipped O C last time, except for prayers at the church and a nice bowl of caldo gallego (having been there before).... Stayed at A Reboleira in Fonfria, and can recommend it w/o hesitation, especially dinner at the palloza!... Lots of options in Sarria....

If there's one place you might get cought w/o reservations, it might be Portomarin.

I walked with my younger son from SJPdeP to Logono in 2017. If you have half as much fun with your kids as I had with my son, it will be the trip of a lifetime. Pax.
 
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Thank you so much for your reply! That is reassuring (Las Herrerias -Fonfria). We'll just talk our time, I think, and make it a long day. Same for Fonfria to just past Sarria (Casa Barbadello). I keep second guessing all of this and end up on my computer forever putting off work that I should be doing :)
 
Trabadelo to La Faba Albergue for me then next day the climb to O'Cebreiro isn't too challenging especially with a coffee at La Laguna. On to Fonfria overnight. Next day to Samos, night stop there then walk to Sarria or Barbadello.
 
Hi Brambles,
Pariso del Bierzo is wonderful. The most difficult part of the six segments you have listed is the first six miles out of Las Herrerias to O'Cebreiro. It is up, up, up. It is also extremely beautiful and very rewarding. It won't be a problem for you and your daughter because you will be in awesome shape. It might be a challenge for your jet-lagged husband and son though. You might want to go into that segment with a little bit of flexibility; maybe have an alternative before Fonfria or break up the next long day with a stop in Samos (which is very beautiful - I can recommend Casa Licerio in Samos - the owner will do your laundry for free :) ). Casa Barbadello is great! It is about three miles beyond Sarria, so you will be walking 20 miles that day. Hope that helps! Buen Camino!
PS I'm glad this post popped up in my email this morning; it's nice to reminisce about a long walk on one's computer now and then.
 
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In summer 2017, we stopped at Casa Lixa in Las Herreiras so we would be fresh for the climb to O Cebreiro and then walked the next day to the great Casa Lucas in Fonfria. It was a hard but wonderful day.
 
Another vote for Casa Lixa in las Herreiras. Really lovely and has albergue as well as private rooms. good restaurant attached too. Short climb to O'Cebreiro from there with its Celtic vibe.
 
I stayed at Casa Lixa as well, made the climb up to O’C and down to Fonfria the next day in a snowstorm! Beautiful views at the Alto San Roque, but so so cold! I had the best caldo gallego and cheesecake in Fonfria at the albergue there.
 
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