Summer along the Levante: Valencia-Toledo

[LTfit]

Hi all Levante pilgrims past, present and future,

I am now home for 6 weeks and am finally sitting down to write about my experience on the Levante. Please keep in mind that my impressions are based on my journal entries which some days were not very complete. I also will not be giving details about km, etc which you can find in guides.

Guide: at my insistance my walking buddy bought the Amigos de Valencia guide (latest Spanish version). DO NOT BOTHER! The maps are inaccurate as well as many entries. I am sorry that I can't give details in this regard as I gave up jotting down comments but sufice it to say find something else! This is quite unfortunate as it was recently updated.

General comments:

• This was my first Camino in which I organized and walked with someone else.
• I am glad I did not walk this Camino on my own. I started out alone on 5 of my 7 Caminos and love walking alone during the day but this is extreme. In the almost 3 weeks walking we met ONE pilgrim, a French woman of 70 who was doing her 12th Camino. We met her on our 4rd day (her 3rd) and remained with her for 3 days. She decided to walk a longer stage at one point and we never saw her again nor anyone else again.
• Having some Spanish knowledge is really helpful although the one French pilgrim we came across did not and she seemed to do just fine.
  
• Locals were very helpful and kind and often would come up to us asking if we needed help when consulting our guide. I was surprised how many locals knew the Camino and said Buen Camino to us along the way.
• Take the time to talk to the locals in towns and farmers in the fields, you can learn so much about the local cultural and economic situation. This is what makes this Camino special. There are so few pilgrims and they were interested in knowing where we came from etc.
• This is a more expensive Camino as there are fewer albergues and so we needed to stay from time to time in private albergues or now and again in a Casa Rural. As I shared a room with someone I was able to cut down on costs.
• There was only ONE municipal albergue with kitchen facilities (Algemesí).
• Municipal albergues were almost always free but limited facilities and usually only 3-4 beds.
• Terrain is very easy and flat. Wide open spaces.
• If you are not good in the heat do not do this Camino in the summer although not as warm as the Plata.
• And it goes without saying: in the warm and hot seasons take LOTS of water. We both had a 2L hydration sack and I, in addition had 2 small 500ml bottles.
• The first 3 stages were deadly in the heat with all the asphalt. Result: blisters which I hadn't had in a few years. Finally on day 4 this stopped and dirt paths began.
• This Camino is a mixed bag: some truely spectacular days and others quite uninteresting but I guess that this could describe most Caminos.
• In order to avoid some uninteresting stages we also followed a couple of stages of the Sureste.

I will post my particular stages later today in a follow up post.

Cheers,
LT

 

[LTfit]

Here is what I have extracted from my journal. I followed Laurie's stages so for more details please refer to her blog.

Valencia: arrived early and took the metro to the center of town from the airport. Straight forward. Got out at Estación Norte which is about a 15 min walk to the Mercat Central and the center of the Ciutat Vella. The cathedral is also in the same area.
Accommodation: youth hostel: http://www.alberguedevalencia.com/ all within walking distance in the old town.
Reserved in advance. Cheapest was room for 10-12 people (bunkbeds) but there were only 4 of us in the room. 12 euros p.p. including breakfast. Normally served at 9 am but I requested 8.30 and they agreed. Short walk first day so no need to leave early.
The guide gave Valencia-Algemesí as the first stage but given the first day, asphalt and heat we split the stage in two.
Stage 1: Valencia-Silla (16 km)
Day of asphalt. Actually a pretty bad first day full of wrong turns. We already started bitching about the signage (or was it us?). Walked through the outskirts of Valencia and at the end through an industrial area that seemed to go on forever.
Accommodations: no albergue in town so stayed at Hostal Moreno: very nice double room with modern private bathroom euro 40 for 2. Reserved in advance via website: hostalmoreno@hostalmoreno.com.
Silla was a small but pleasant town outside of Valencia with all the necessary facilities.
Stage 2: Silla-Algemesí (22 km)
Second day of asphalt but scenery beter than the first day but we went wrong again! Walked to the Porto de Silla with old wooden boats, past Albufeira and rice fields but this was not the Camino so had to back track and then saw where we had gone wrong - an hour detour! Through rice fields, orange and other fruit orchards. Many villages to stop in along the way. Had a coffee in El Romaní. The towns we walked through had names remembering the time when the Arabs ruled here. Past a water canal which I used to cool off my feet and legs as the temperature was by this time around 30 degrees.
Accommodation: the municipal albergue was fine, including a decent kitchen (only one in the whole Camino from Valencia-Toledo). Two single beds and 2 literas if I recall correctly. Pick up key in the Folklore museum across the street. Needed to wait till 5-5.30 pm unfortunately. Sleeping awful due to partying in the streets - it was Saturday night.
Stage 3: Algemesí-Xátiva (30 km)
Third day of asphalt with here and there dirt/stones to vary the walk a bit. Nicest day yet. Walked through 6 towns. Tough day in the blazing sun.
I really liked Xátiva. Wide, broad avenues with beautiful plantanes and an old town. Wealthy looking city.
Accommodation: Albergue Turistico El Palau. 18 euros bed in the albergue but at 15 euro p.p. we shared a room for 30 euros with a private bathroom. There was only one other occupant.
Stage 4: Xátiva-Moixant (28 km)
We finally had a few senderos de tierra but too far between the asphalt. Leaving Xátiva we got lost again which seemed to be usual leaving towns as the signage was poor. The guide didn't help and by this time were ready to throw it out!
Accommodation: Cruz Roja: very basic and unkept but free. 3 literas and a shower. A bit out of town but with a lovely view of the town below. Pick up the key at the Policía local (building next to the Guardia Civil). This is where we met the one and only fellow pilgrim (she had done the 38 km first stage at 70+years of age)! She was really happy to see us although I was the only one to speak French.
Stage 5: Moixant-La Font de la Figuera (18 km)
Lovely day, just perfect. Etapa short and had a nice breeze. Wandered up and down and through vineyards, olive groves and plum grove. Finally a feeling that I was on a Camino.
Accommodation: albergue municipal (free). Instructions in the guide were to call the Policía local to get the key but they didn't pick up so I went into the ayuntamiento and they gave it to us. The albergue is a little house surrounded by the polideportivo and in front of the basketball courts. Two literas only and showers/bathroom. Clean.
Stage 6: La font de la Figuera-Almansa (26.6 km)
Landscape mountain-like, mediteranean pines and through some rocky areas. The terrain was mostly dirt wtih small rocks/pebbles. We passed grape vines, some type of fruit trees and olive groves. Later the landscape changed and it was flater with grain fields.
Accommodation: Convent Esclavos de Maria, 7 euros. Men and women in separate rooms (two beds in each room) with own bathroom.
Visit the lovely castle with great views of the surroundings.
Stage 7: Almansa-Alpera (25 km)
Since we did not want to do Almansa-Higueruela in one day (41 km) we split the stage and went to Alpera 4 km off route on the Ruta de la Lana.
What an incredible day! Just beautiful! We walked around a mountain called Sierra del Mugrón. On the way we found reamins of bunkers from the Spanish Civil War. We passed many vines, some pines and lots of low brush.
On our way into town we were stopped by a local who said that we had to talk to the town médico Pedro Antonio who was a member of the Amigos of Albacete and knows everything. He gave us his telephone number which I called and he invited us to his office in the Centro de Salud and printed out all kinds of information so that we could follow the original Vía Romana instead of the Levante for a stage in order to avoid an industrial park. We are glad we did.
Funny enough Pedro Antonio had been referred to me by a fellow Spanish pilgrim who I had met in december. When we got together he said: "are you the Lee that Luís mentioned to me". A small world indeed. We spent a pleasant evening in the local bar with him and I had to laugh when every once and a while a patient came over to him for a consult. He had left a sign at the Centro de Salud that he was in the bar and to fetch him there. Where else in the world can you do that. Not in Holland for sure!
Accommodation: municipal albergue, 7 euros. Pay and pick up key in the ayuntamiento. One room with 2 single beds and a second one with he same. There was a kitchen of sorts - a microwave.

 

[LTfit]

Stage 8: Alpera-Higueruela (22 + 6 km)
Leaving Alpera we did not backtrack the 4 km to the Carrascal ranch but rather followed Pedro Antionio's instructions. Walk was lovely again, red dirt, grape vines, pines and mountains in the distance. Also lots of modern windmills or a Parque Eólico. The last 11 km was along a small, narrow local highway without a shoulder.
Accommodation: old ayuntamiento. Pick up the key at La Posada. Very basic with only 2 beds but clean, modern bathroom. Free. Didn't sleep much as the local band was praticing on the first floor to past midnight.
Stage 9: Higueruela-Chinchilla (29 km)
Weather changed: hot, dry without a cloub in the sky. Beautiful day: red dirt and green fields against a bright blue sky.
Accommodation: there are 2 hostales along the highway below the old town. We stayed at El Peñón (35 euros double). After taking a shower and eating we walked the stairs up to the town which is very much worth the walk. Lots of history and homes with family crests. The Plaza de España was lively with cafés and church. Also a castle to visit. On the way you will pass houses built into the rock or cuelvas with chimneys.
Stage 10: Chinchilla-Albacete (16 km)
A very uninteresting walk. We took the Sureste as Pedro Antonio recommended in order to avoid the industrial park but it was boring. A trail of dirt and pebbles and nothing to see in front, right, left or behind. When we arrived at the outskirts of Albacete there was some confusion about the arrows. We noticed a gentleman in the distance who seemed to be looking at us. He showed us where we needed to go and even took us into his garage to show us a map. The message is turn RIGHT not left when you come to the intersection and see arrows on both sides. It took at least 30 min to cross Albacete and arrive at the hostel.
Accommodation: Hostal Atenzar (35 euros double including laundry). Very helpful and friendly owner.
Stage 11: Albacete-La Gineta (20 km)
First we followed the train tracks, then walked on dirt roads through wheat fields, garlic and corn.
Accommodtation: polideportivo (closed between 1-4 pm). Slept in a changing room on gym mats. Free.
Stage 12: La Gineta-La Roda (20 km)
Wheat fields, nothing much else.
Accommodation: In the Plaza de Torros. Need to call a gentleman from the local Amigo association. Only two beds with a bathroom but the town is lovely and has a nice park with wifi.
Stage 13: La Roda-San Clemente (35 km)
Lots of fields but also here and there pine forests.
Accommodation: new basic albergue. Pick up key in the plaza at the Oficina de Turísmo. One room with 2 single beds and one with one (if I recall correct). Bathroom and another room with table and chairs but no cooking facilities.
I loved San Clemente. It has a wonderful Museo de Arte (obras gráficas) and a church of Santiago. The young man who helped us at the Oficina told us about the adjoining museum. I was very suprised to see such a modern museum. After showering and eating we arrived at the museum when it was just closing. I had been looking forward to visiting it but hadn't kept track of the time. The young man who had helped us previously came over to us and said wait. He then opened the museum for us, turned on the lights and told us to enjoy the visit and turn off the lights when we were done. He was sitting outside the museum having a beer and closed up when we were done. Now that is what I call good service! The museum is well worth the visit. It has lots of Guillaum Corbeille works (Cobra).
Stage 14: San Clemente-Las Pedroñeras (24 + 3 km)
This was a horror day! We got hopelessly lost! A while past the Finca Casa de Tesorero (owner leaves out a cupito for pilgrims) we missed a turn and ended up walking off track on a narrow path between vineyards for at least an hour . Unfortunately we did not follow the first pilgrim law: if you don't see an arrow within about 20 minutes you have probably made a wrong turn. I guess that this section is known for this problem. I didn't read Laurie's instructions that day so I guess that it was all my fault! My companion took out his phone and we used the GPS to find the track again and reach Santiago de la Torre (an abandoned town) and on to Pedroñeras.
Accommodation: there is a Casa Parroquial but we stayed at Casa Mauricio. There were two rooms and we took one with a kitchenette.
Stage 15: Las Pedroñeras-El Toboso (31 km)
Here you enter the province of Toledo. Temperatures were cool this morning. The countryside changed to rolling hills with vineyards. We got lost after leaving town - even using the GPS. We backtracked once and ended up walking rhough dirt field to the N 301 and walked a while along the carretera then followed a parallel road to finally arrive in Moto del Cuervo. Days later we found out that the reason we went wrong was due to the very poor and inaccurate maps in the Amigos guide! We had never should have backtracked in the first place.
Accommodation: we had planned on staying in the albergue juvenil el Quijote but when we arrived at the Hostal El Quijote we had lunch and they gave us a key to the room with 3 separate single beds and a private bath (didn't write down the cost).
Lovely town.
Stage 16: El Toboso-Villa Don Fadrique (27 km)
Between the town Quintanor de la Orden and La Puebla de Almoradiel we followed old train tracks made into a trail (Trenillo). I don't remember much about this day.
Accommodation: there is a polideportivo but you need to pick up the key at the policía local which is in the ayuntamiento which is closed weekends. When did we arrive? Saturday of course. So we stayed at a Casa Rural El Rincón del Infante run by Juan and his wife. There were no rooms available as there were tourists and a group of hunters from Galicia but Juan is so hospitable and pilgrim oriented that he insisted that we sleep in the dining room with mats pulled off of a few benches. The place is lovely with an amazing bathroom. He gave us breakfast in the morning with the hunters and insisted that I take a bag full of cakes for the day's walk. Although he did not want us to pay a cent I pushed a 2o euro bill into his pocket as we stayed the night, had a lovely shower and breakfast. The following morning he followed us out of town in his car (I hear that he does this with everyone).
Stage 17: Don Fadrique-Tembleque (29 km)
The landscape was very arid today with almond trees, vineyards and pumpkins.
Accommodation: Casa Rural Balcón de la Mancha. Double room with bath and kitchen (20 euros p.p.). Lovely town.

My walking buddy was tired at this point and did not want to walk the last long stage into Toledo so we took a bus from Tembleque to a town 16 km from Toledo. Problem is that I stopped writing in my journal at this point and am having a senior moment and don't remember the town. Unfortunately I also do not have the guide to look it up. Anyway stayed the night in a Casa Rural which was way out of town but worth the trip as it had a pool!
The last day walking into Toledo was short but lovely, especially the views of the city! We arrived early and so spent that day and the following 1 1/2 days visiting Toledo. There is so much to see!

All and all glad that I did the Levante although once again I would not suggest walking it on your own unless you like to be COMPELETLY alone. I have always felt safe on Caminos but we got lost so many times that I was especially glad I did this with a companion.

Regarding the weather: I was suprised that it wasn't warmer. We walked from June 27-July 15 and the temperatures were no way as warm as the Plata in July. In the low 30's but doable. The first few days out of Valencia were humid but after that we always had a slight breeze and the heat was dry. What most surprised me was that the temperatures dropped at night which made sleeping fine. This was not true on the Plata where the heat blasted from 10 am all through the night.

Terrain/landscape: if you liked the Plata and wide open spaces then you will also love the Levante.

Not sure when I will return to finish the Levante. Anyone interested in joining me for the last 11 days to Zamora?

Now planning my next adventure.
Cheers,
LT

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, LTfit,
Thanks so much for such detailed comments. I've enjoyed reading them and rewalking the Levante in my mind. One thing that seems clear is that you were less a "Levante lover" than I was. Since we tend to have similar tastes in Caminos, at least based on what we've posted in the past, it's interesting to see the differences.

I am surprised to hear how bad you found the maps and the written instructions in the Levante amigos guide. I also walked with the Spanish guide, and my general impression was that it was helpful and very accurate. Maybe part of it is that I walked with two Frenchmen who had the French guidebook, written by someone known only to me as Gerard, as they either cursed or praised his name. So at points of confusion we had two sources, not just one. But I just didn't have the same frustrating experience of getting lost so often. I did need to ask directions often when going through towns, but I was rarely lost like you describe. I'm sure that detracts from the experience a lot.

My other idea would be that maybe the time of year makes a difference. Spring was glorious, shockingly bright green fields, huge fields of poppies, etc, etc, but you are used to the browner shades of summer walking, so that doesn't seem to have played a big part. I would walk the Levante again in spring in a heartbeat, but not alone. Like you, we found it to be totally empty, and I am no longer a big fan of totally solitary caminos, maybe it's my age.

The one thing that I really liked about the Levante was the huge number of interesting small towns we wound up in. There were very few afternoons spent twiddling our thumbs or cutting our toenails. The more common situation was that we were in a town with lots to see, monuments, museums, plazas, churches, etc. In fact I'd say that the Levante is almost in a category by itself when it comes to that, so many interesting towns.

And maybe, too, since didn't get to the mountainous part before Avila, you didn't get that joyful invigoration that comes from huffing and puffing up to some crazily beautiful views. That was definitely a highlight for me.

But anyway, it's so good to have a variety of opinions, thanks for taking the time to do this. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[LTfit]

Hi Laurie,

Excuse all the typos! I will go back and read my posts over again and correct the spelling.

I think that you may be misinterpreting my comments or then again you may be partly correct. I think that there are several factors that come into play and it may be, in part, due to my walking companion:

1) he's not so good in the heat (I am)
2) he gets pissed off when the signage is poor (I figure that's part of doing a Camino, a hour detour means seeing something new!)
3) he prefers stages of around 25 km (I like the 30+ km range and would have done the longer stages)
4) because he was quite tired at the end of some of the stages we did not visit all of the castles.

These points may have coloured my experience although I would walk with him again and he is great company which is especially important if you are the only ones on the Camino! We walked from Sevilla-Baños together without a problem but that was in February with lower temperatures and you can't really get lost on the Plata. He did find my stages of 30+ a bit much though.

Although it is true that I am not sure that I would do the Levante again, I am definately glad that I did it! There were some amazingly stunning days!

Cheers,
LT

 

[anniethenurse]

Thank you Lee.
So detailed info on the Levante.

 

[anniethenurse]

....Maybe part of it is that I walked with two Frenchmen who had the French guidebook, written by someone known only to me as Gerard, as they either cursed or praised his name......
Laurie

Gerard du Camino

You will find him if you google his name and Levante

 

[alansykes]

Gerard du Camino

You will find him if you google his name and Levante

I've got Gérard Rousse's "Sur le Chemin du Levant", published by Lepère editions in 2008; you can buy in on abebooks.com or Amazon.

I used it from Arévalo onwards. It's mostly OK, although the maps are out of date and some of his stages are frankly weird: he suggests going from dull Villaralbo to Montamarta rather than staying in glorious Zamora, for example - although Toro to Zamora is quite a long day, it's certainly worth it. He did get me badly lost in the meseta nearing Seite Iglesias, saying I should go " tout droit" for several km when there's a sharp left at one point, but the fog didn't help. His tone is fairly irritating at times but it's better than nothing.

 

[LTfit]

Re the Amigos guide: beware of the maps! When the signage is good there is no problem as you won't need to use them (I never did in all my km along the Plata/Sanabrés) but in 2 cases when we did need them they took us off in the wrong direction.

And don't be surprised if the signage is poor within cities and towns. We never left in the dark so I am not sure why we had several problems getting out of town. Again it may have just been us, but I have never had this problem in any other Camino.

As I haven't seen Gérard's guide I can't compare. But missing Zamora would be blasphemy! I just may be there in October for a third time !

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, LT, I agree with you completely about the bad signage within towns. And to add insult to injury, very few people in the town even know anything about the Levante. But I found that in most cases the Spanish guide described enough landmarks (go under tracks, go path ethnographic museum, etc), that we could ask for directions to those points and then continue on our way.

Do you have any specific memories about where the maps led you wrong? I am still scratching my head about my saunter through a cottonwood forest outside Zamora, and several coming behind haven't been able to clear it up, but maybe if we get some of those black spots out there, others can help for future pilgrims.

But of course, if you are heading back to the Camino you are likely to have more interesting things to do. It's just the poor slobs like me who are stuck in an office at work till next year's Camino who enjoy rehashing and looking at maps of places we once walked through. Lucky you, sigh. Laurie

p.s. And to add to the Zamora chorus -- do NOT miss this place under any circumstances -- one of my favorite stops on any camino.

 

[george.g]

Re exits from towns, you can print street level maps from "the walking pilgrim" site with the caminos marked on them, thats what I did and it worked very well except for a section just outside Toledo (there's a post about it)
Regards
George.
PS, re Zamora, did anyone else find the "all you can eat" buffet in the corner of the Plaza Mayor?

 

[Kevin F. O*brien]

Re exits from towns, you can print street level maps from "the walking pilgrim" site with the caminos marked on them, thats what I did and it worked very well except for a section just outside Toledo (there's a post about it)
Regards
George.
PS, re Zamora, did anyone else find the "all you can eat" buffet in the corner of the Plaza Mayor?

Hello again everyone and especially LT and Laurie. Thanks LT for the interesting and entertaining account. I love the way you and Laurie write, no pomposity or New Age, just the facts and a wry sense of humour. Sorry you got lost outside San Clemente!! Nearly missed the way there one morning and just happened to notice the arrow on a stone, lying on it's side beside the Camino. I propped it up again and warned Laurie to watch for it about 8 km from San Clemente. I had the English language guide. The maps were fairly accurate, despite missing the fact of the A34 motorway outside Zamora! I stopped looking for marking in towns as there usually isn't any! Using a compass to get the general direction and then the town map worked fairly well. Like Laurie I loved the Levante, at least after the first four days, and would like to do it again when it's Spring. The new albergues/hostals are noted and thanks for that.
Stay well and Buen Camino
Kev
PS: Albergue in El Toboso - Convento de Trinitario. First class!

 

[Kevin F. O*brien]

Hello again LT. About the last 11 days. Have you made any concrete plans yet?The northern part is very different but, in places, very beautiful with dramatic landscapes. I wouldn't try it in the winter, but late autumn and Spring would be the best.
Kev

 

[LTfit]

Hi @Kevin F. O*brien
I am not sure at this point when I will be doing the rest of the Levante. My walking buddy from the first stretch is thinking about doing the Toledo - Zamora in February or March. Not sure if I want to be in that region of Spain in February. The Plata from Sevilla to Salamanca was very doable this past February but around Ávila it could be frigid! That region is know to be really cold but seeing that you are from Norway you should would have no problem!
But first the Mozárabe! Off next Tuesday to Granada.
Any Camino plans on your horizon?
Cheers,
LT

 

[peregrina2000]

Hello again LT. About the last 11 days. Have you made any concrete plans yet?The northern part is very different but, in places, very beautiful with dramatic landscapes. I wouldn't try it in the winter, but late autumn and Spring would be the best.
Kev

Hi, Kevin, so good to see you back on the forum. You were so helpful to me in planning my Levante, as you know. Like you, I would jump at the chance to walk from Valencia again, even though those first four days were hellish on the feet with all the asphalt. I never found the albergue in the convent in El Toboso, though the "albergue" in the hostal Don Quijote is quite ok, but nothing like what you described in the convent. I remember walking into El Toboso and thinking, this is where Kevin stayed in an albergue with lace curtains. Never found it.

I started in early May and the scenery and weather were spectacular. Only one morning of rain (more at night but never while walking), and the green fields were emerald bright, the flowers everywhere, and those castles looking down at us, wow oh wow. Try it in spring, I don't think you'll have to huddle in ditches to protect yourself from the wind if you do. Laurie.

 

[Kevin F. O*brien]

Hi, Kevin, so good to see you back on the forum. You were so helpful to me in planning my Levante, as you know. Like you, I would jump at the chance to walk from Valencia again, even though those first four days were hellish on the feet with all the asphalt. I never found the albergue in the convent in El Toboso, though the "albergue" in the hostal Don Quijote is quite ok, but nothing like what you described in the convent. I remember walking into El Toboso and thinking, this is where Kevin stayed in an albergue with lace curtains. Never found it.

I started in early May and the scenery and weather were spectacular. Only one morning of rain (more at night but never while walking), and the green fields were emerald bright, the flowers everywhere, and those castles looking down at us, wow oh wow. Try it in spring, I don't think you'll have to huddle in ditches to protect yourself from the wind if you do. Laurie.

Hello Laurie,great to see you "in print" again. Hehe, on arrival in El Toboso I sat at the bar in what seemed to be the Plaza Mayor with my usual refreshment! The girl there mentioned the "Convento de las Trinitarias" and pointed down the road. It was about three hundred metres from the bar in a big square. The flechas lead you right past it. I had to speak to a disembodied voice through a grill and finally a barred gate round the corner of the huge castle-like building was opened. An elderly (??!) nun speaking perfect Castellano, slowly, for once, explained all the rules and about the keys. It was just that the rooms were so perfect, almost cell like, with their cross above the bed, but with en suite facilities and and a beautful hand stitched counterpane on the bed. And lace curtains! There were no restrictions or curfew, but the street door had to be locked at all times. I found a place for breakfast down at the highway and wandered on to Quintanar.
LT, after Escalona there is some pretty high altitude walking, so Feb would be pretty miserable, unless you are very lucky. Late April to June would be better I think. Enjoy the Mozarabe! I'll be off again in the Spring, not sure where yet.

Buen Camino to both,

Kev