Sureste 22 April 17

[Bad Pilgrim]

Tomorrow should Medina del Campo.

Okay,

There are two options to enter Medina del Campo. I wonder if both are mentioned in your guide? I don't remember if we have the same guide. It is just after having left San Vicente de Palacios.

The walk next to the highway is a real slog but it is the only one I know of. I have never seen the arrows that point to the other way that continues on the farm tracks until it reaches Medina del Campo. The latter one must be a little bit longer, but looks more peaceful than the highway. I am talking out of memory here, but I think the latter track was included in the Sureste guidebook that I used. Choose wisely! :O)

/BP

 

[MikeJS]

Okay,

There are two options to enter Medina del Campo. I wonder if both are mentioned in your guide? I don't remember if we have the same guide. It is just after having left San Vicente de Palacios.

The walk next to the highway is a real slog but it is the only one I know of. I have never seen the arrows that point to the other way that continues on the farm tracks until it reaches Medina del Campo. The latter one must be a little bit longer, but looks more peaceful than the highway. I am talking out of memory here, but I think the latter track was included in the Sureste guidebook that I used. Choose wisely! :O)

/BP

Don't have my guide book with me at the moment so don't know. However, my guide book was updated in 2015 so we will see! Whatever happens, if I feel ok I will not take the road way and use my own directions.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Don't have my guide book with me at the moment so don't know. However, my guide book was updated in 2015 so we will see! Whatever happens, if I feel ok I will not take the road way and use my own directions.

All right,

It's not that much of a difference cause the highway is still near, but anyway. My guidebook was from 2010 so there could be some differences. It will be interesting to hear how you got there tomorrow - especially where the arrows take you after San Vicente de Palacios.

/BP

 

[MikeJS]

All right,

It's not that much of a difference cause the highway is still near, but anyway. My guidebook was from 2010 so there could be some differences. It will be interesting to hear how you got there tomorrow - especially where the arrows take you after San Vicente de Palacios.

/BP

BP The route I walked from San Vincente del Palacio was well away from the road until the outskirts of MdC. In SVdP there are a variety of routes with arrows but by luck I ended up at the NNW edge of the village where there was a signpost to MdC. Photo attached. Ignore the distance show as that is too the outskirts. It is not the route in my guide ( which is the latest version from Alicante) but seems to be about the same distance to the centre which is about 12kms.

 

[MikeJS]

Before I forget here is some Adp info I copied in Avila.

 

[MikeJS]

Arevalo to Medina del Campo 34kms.
Left just before 0700 and arrived at 1330.
Rained very heavily overnight but it had stopped by 0700. However, it remained very threatening and within the hour it was pouring down - complete with strong winds and all in 8 degs! Lucky I stopped after about an hour and then there was just heavy occasional showers. Route is simple and relatively flat but nowhere on route was open on the way as I expected! Arrived in Arevalo without any dramas and headed to the Tourist info office. Went there as I plan a long day tomorrow, if the weather and everything thing else is ok, and I wanted to check something details about the albergue. I didn't want to arrive after more than 45kms to have trouble getting into the Albergue! So now I am assured that if I phone Rebecca when I arrive she will come and open up.

 

[peregrina2000]

I may be wrong or "misremembering", but I think the albergue there was above the funeral parlour. When I was there the hospitalera was the alcadesa, and very charming and helpful. It's a lovely walk the next day over the highlands to Ávila.

Unfortunately, I've no idea where the funeral parlour is.

I didn't sleep there (slept in the pension in town), and I know it's too late for Mike, but the albergue is over the doctor's office (which may occasionally double as a funeral parlor). I remember when we arrived that no one had any idea about it, just like Mike found, but by luck we ran into the alcaldesa and she took my friends directly there.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Arevalo to Medina del Campo 34kms.
Left just before 0700 and arrived at 1330.
Rained very heavily overnight but it had stopped by 0700. However, it remained very threatening and within the hour it was pouring down - complete with strong winds and all in 8 degs! Lucky I stopped after about an hour and then there was just heavy occasional showers. Route is simple and relatively flat but nowhere on route was open on the way as I expected! Arrived in Arevalo without any dramas and headed to the Tourist info office. Went there as I plan a long day tomorrow, if the weather and everything thing else is ok, and I wanted to check something details about the albergue. I didn't want to arrive after more than 45kms to have trouble getting into the Albergue! So now I am assured that if I phone Rebecca when I arrive she will come and open up.

Okay! Should have told you about Ataquines, where there are two bars quite close to the Camino. It doesn't add much to the distance. Since there are few bars open along the way, as you notice, a little break in Ataquines is worth it. If one can figure out how to cross the highway without mortal danger...

Where are you heading tomorrow? I don't remember: are you continuing towards Zamora and then the Sanabrés? Or are you heading for Astorga?

/BP

 

[MikeJS]

BP - I could see that Ataquines would have bars but didn't fancy the detour. Interesting to see there is at least one hotel there.
Tomorrow, if the weather is ok I'm planning to go to Moto de Marques. At the end of the Sureste I plan to head up the Via de la Plata then along the Frances to Ponferrada to take the Camino Invierno to Santiago.

 

[MikeJS]

MdC to Moto de Marques 49kms

Last nights meal was the best so far on this camino. A full size portion of lasagne to start, then a wonderful piece of roast pork with excellent crackling and a large salad to the side. Completed with a pud and for the first time this camino it included a bottle of wine! Cost 18 euros but unfortunately I was tired and only drank 2 glasses! Route today was straight forward and well marked but a little dull. Started dry but quickly turned to frequent heavy showers. Left at 0630 and arrived at 1600 with a short stop in Tordesillas for a bite to eat. Noted there was a hostal Arenal in Rueda ( 13kms from MdC) so that could split the last two stages into more 'normal ' distances. Called the lady who runs the AdP and she told me to wait in the bar! There is only one and they don't do meals! Luckily, they have pinchos and rolls so I won't starve!! Just realised that the hotel at the bottom of the road has food but walked down to check and they don't offer meals until 2030 and the choice is very limited and it look pretty dire. Think I'll give my business to the small bar in Plaza Major.

 

[peregrina2000]

BP - I could see that Ataquines would have bars but didn't fancy the detour. Interesting to see there is at least one hotel there.
Tomorrow, if the weather is ok I'm planning to go to Moto de Marques. At the end of the Sureste I plan to head up the Via de la Plata then along the Frances to Ponferrada to take the Camino Invierno to Santiago.

Hope you will post from the Invierno, Mike. Would love to hear how you find it (and selfishly, would also love to hear if you have critiques of the guide that can help us in doing the 2018 edition!). Buen camino, Laurie

 

[MikeJS]

Hope you will post from the Invierno, Mike. Would love to hear how you find it (and selfishly, would also love to hear if you have critiques of the guide that can help us in doing the 2018 edition!). Buen camino, Laurie

I intend to keep this thread going for my complete trip. What guide?

 

[peregrina2000]

I intend to keep this thread going for my complete trip. What guide?

Oh, yay, another chance for shameless advertising and self-promotion. It's the forum invierno guide, made by a little band of peregrinos who love the Invierno and can't understand why there are so few who choose it.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/camino-de-invierno-2017-edition.535/

People send me updates and then every January, we have a lot of fun trying to combine our knowledge to straighten out the difficulties in order to produce the new updated version. Hope you find it useful. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[MikeJS]

Oh, yay, another chance for shameless advertising and self-promotion. It's the forum invierno guide, made by a little band of peregrinos who love the Invierno and can't understand why there are so few who choose it.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/camino-de-invierno-2017-edition.535/

People send me updates and then every January, we have a lot of fun trying to combine our knowledge to straighten out the difficulties in order to produce the new updated version. Hope you find it useful. Buen camino, Laurie

OK. Had a look bit for me a guide without a map is not ideal. I can't be reading a guide as I go along. However, I'm sure it will be useful to read before each stage.

 

[MikeJS]

Moto de Marques to Villalpando 38kms

Started and stayed dry but threatening all day. The AdP in MdM was fine. 4 beds with a shower. It is just at the rear of Plaza Major and right on the Camino. Simple track today with a pleasant stroll through some pine forests at the end. Now in the AdP in Villalpando which is between the school and local police station. There is even a large signpost to it. AdP is very simple but has 6 beds in 3 rooms and the hospitalero seems to live in! No locks on any doors - I always keep ALL of my valuables with me at all times!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Route today was straight forward and well marked but a little dull.

I found this part of the Camino to be utterly boring, more or less from Mota del Marqués to Astorga. The waymarks were confusing or non-existent, and the written directions in my guide (from 2010) didn't make any sense. I hope your version form 2015 is better. I'm sure there were different kind of scenery and landscapes but all I remember is monotony all the way to Astorga.

Okay so you are in Villalpando. I found that albergue to be quite eerie and I wouldn't like to stay there again. Very basic, right? I mean it wasn't filthy but just... empty. Not my kind of albergue.

There was a pidgeon that had her nest on the balcony and therefore I was deprived of using the kitchen because she would get startled and leave her eggs every time I entered. The balcony was covered with feathers and dirt so that added to my impression of a compeltely neglected albergue... or perhaps the hospitaleros are animal lovers like me so they just wanted to let the pidgeons be :O)

/BP

 

[peregrina2000]

OK. Had a look bit for me a guide without a map is not ideal. I can't be reading a guide as I go along. However, I'm sure it will be useful to read before each stage.

We have never talked about adding maps, but maybe that's something we should have had at the beginning. Now, though, I'm not sure that it's worth it with so many other sources. But I will put this on the list for discussion next January with the Invierno gang. I think our intent was to be able to give good verbal directions for those tricky parts where a map really wouldn't help (but a GPS would of course). Anyway, don't mean to hijack your thread, buen camino and can't wait to hear how the Invierno goes!

 

[MikeJS]

BP now I'm really looking forward to the next bit! Yes the AdP in Villalpando was very strange, especially with the lodger. However, in all fairness, I had no problems. Biggest issue was nowhere served a meal before 2100 so I got a picnic from the supermarket!

 

[MikeJS]

P2000 - Don't apologise, I'm happy to hear from any! I agree there are plenty of sources for maps elsewhere. I will be interested to see how much of a problem dogs are given the paragraph in the guide about them. Normally, I worry more about bulls and bed bugs!

 

[MikeJS]

Villalpando to Benavente 29 kms

Shortish day today and a fairly flat one. Easy route and a nice clear blue sky for a change. Nowhere open on the way which I expected being a Sunday. Could see Benavente from about 15kms away! Knew I had to get the AdP key from the tourist office and was just hoping it would be open. I arrived at just before 1300 and it turns out they close at 1300 as its a festa day! Good directions to the AdP which has 12 beds and all the normal things. Was hoping for a washing machine but no luck. However, the bars are open so food options look good. Need to plan my next few days along the last bit of VdlP as I don't have guide. About 780kms done so far to what to me feels like the end of the Sureste as its VdlP and Invierno from here. So I walk to here without seeing another peregrino while walking and only 5 at the AdP in la Roda plus the Norwegian in Gotarrendura! Not that I mind at all. I think the most difficult part in places was getting a meal in the evening before 2100!

 

[KinkyOne]

Congratulations, Mike!
It was nice reading your posts which are also good source of info on Sureste. I hope they'll keep coming, of course

Ultreia!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

P2000 - Don't apologise, I'm happy to hear from any! I agree there are plenty of sources for maps elsewhere. I will be interested to see how much of a problem dogs are given the paragraph in the guide about them. Normally, I worry more about bulls and bed bugs!

The dogs on the Invierno are a nuisance, even if one is not afraid of them. Annoying......................

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

So I walk to here without seeing another peregrino while walking and only 5 at the AdP in la Roda plus the Norwegian in Gotarrendura!

I think they probably headed for the Sanabrés: a nicer option than the last part on the VdlP to Astorga in my opinion.

So you are alone in Benavente? It was full house when I was there, above all due to the cyclists. The day isn't over yet - perhaps som bikes will turn up this afternoon! :O) You are in the old railway station, right?

Uhm, the last stage to Astorga... I remember it as dificult, got lost a few times... But you will stay in La Bañeza tomorrow, right? The albergue is ok. It was somewhat tricky to get the person responsible for the keys. I won't go on about it, but have you checked that for tomorrow?

/BP

 

[MikeJS]

BP Yes in the old railway station and its 1830 and still just me!
Plan to go to La Baneza tomorrow. My info has the keys for the AdP in Bar El Paseo!
When I said about walking here alone it was all the way from Alicante not just from where you can turn off to the Sansbres. Photo attached about the AdP opening times.

 

[MikeJS]

Benavente to La Baneza 43 kms

Firstly, I want to mention the Taberna Don Pablo in Benavente which is just about the first bat when you walk up from the AdP. It was very good, they were very helpful and you could eat at any time!

As for today's walk it was excellent! So I wonder if BP had a bad day when he walked it! Walk out of Benavente was simple and along a quiet road for about 5 kms. After that it was with off road or along a very quiet road ( I didn't see any vehicles) and the section from Infantada almost to Benavente was mostly along a river bank. Overall, one of the nicest walks so far. Helped by feeling good, in fact I considered walking on to Astorga but chose not to as it would have made distances very awkward for the next couple of days. Good to see a few VdlP signs and my first menu de peregrino offered since I left Alicante! Off to Rabanal del Camino. AdP here is very good and easy to find and access. Met my first peregrinos on this camino today and they were English!

 

[MikeJS]

La Baneza to Rabanal del Camino via Astorga. 46kms. Fairly straightforward route to Astorga although about 12kms out the track crosses a road. The road has been newly tarmaced and the track has been regarded so all but one sign has been obliterated. The remaining sign neither pointed along the road of along the track - so I chose the track - wrong choice! No great drama as it was easy to get back on track just had to cross some scrub land and a few fields! Once in Astorga I walked until I saw peregrinos crossing ahead of me and new I had got to the Frances! Sat and had a roll and a coffee and saw more pilgrims in that time than in the last 24 days! The walk to Rabanal was easy, so many signs and so many peregrinos it would be impossible to get lost. Also, I had forgotten just how many bars and beds are available on this Camino. I walked into Rabanal and had a choice of 8 or more places to stay and right opposite are 2 bars with food from 1600. Also interesting to see that having climbed to about 1150m many trees don't yet have leaves, bluebells are in glower and I've gone back a season. Climb first thing tomorrow up to 1500m and then all the way down again to about 520m to Ponferrada.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Fairly straightforward route to Astorga although about 12kms out the track crosses a road. The road has been newly tarmaced and the track has been regarded so all but one sign has been obliterated. The remaining sign neither pointed along the road of along the track - so I chose the track - wrong choice! No great drama as it was easy to get back on track just had to cross some scrub land and a few fields!

I believe I did exactly the same mistake. Although I could se no sign whatsoever, that's why I ended up in the fields. I had walked for quite a while before I noticed I was wrong. For me it was quite difficult to get back on track. When I checked the map & directions, I knew it was at that tarmaced road I went wrong! I think a lot of us will make the same mistake.

 

[MikeJS]

Fortunately, my unerring sense of direction (apple maps) got me back on track without and significant extra kms. It's an awkward point as you have been walking straight along that track for a while so in my mind the best option seemed to be to continue straight on! I even looked down the road for extra signs and didn't see anything.

 

[MikeJS]

Rabanal to Ponferrada 36km

Good albergue last night and it was great to have a choice of food at a reasonable time. Heavy rain and mist this morning and a steep track down full of ankle grabbing rocks! However, it only took 6.5 hours so it wasn't that bad. Still seems strange to see so many peregrinos- I must have passed at least 50. Chose an albergue which is close to the start of the Camino Invierno and I chose it because they have a vegetarian menu and I want some vegetables! Just eating a wonderful home made veggie flan for lunch ( with wine of course).

 

[MikeJS]

Decided that I will end this thread here and start the Invierno thread on the Invierno part of this web site. See you there!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Okay! See you there!

Tanks for the pictures & info! Just about one month before I go to Alicante myself!

Take care!

BP

 

[MikeJS]

Hope you have a great trip.

 

[MikeJS]

Camino Sureste

34 days to Santiago de Compestela via Camino Sureste, Via dela Plata, Frances and Camino Invierno. This is a challenging Camino if only because you may be the only one on it! I like walking by myself and a didn't see another peregrino between Alicante and Benavente and only saw 2 until I got to Astorga. Lots on the Frances obviously but again only me on the Invierno. In fact I saw more peregrinos while I ate a roll in Astorga than I had seen all of the previous days. Accommodation is fine using a mixture of albergues, Hostals, Booking.com and Airbnb. On some places I either could not find the albergue or could not contact the person who should have the key. Food can also be a challenge as even if there was somewhere to eat the food was not available until 2130 so I had many la Dia 'picnics '! So if you like ling walks by yourself the Sureste is ideal.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Camino Sureste

34 days to Santiago de Compestela via Camino Sureste, Via dela Plata, Frances and Camino Invierno. This is a challenging Camino if only because you may be the only one on it! I like walking by myself and a didn't see another peregrino between Alicante and Benavente and only saw 2 until I got to Astorga. Lots on the Frances obviously but again only me on the Invierno. In fact I saw more peregrinos while I ate a roll in Astorga than I had seen all of the previous days. Accommodation is fine using a mixture of albergues, Hostals, Booking.com and Airbnb. On some places I either could not find the albergue or could not contact the person who should have the key. Food can also be a challenge as even if there was somewhere to eat the food was not available until 2130 so I had many la Dia 'picnics '! So if you like ling walks by yourself the Sureste is ideal.

Ideal for walking alone, yes. I kind of hope it stays that way. I don't think the goal of every Camino is to attract more people from one year to another... At the same time they should'nt be negelcted. Thanks to your posts some more pilgrims will hopefully discover it!

/BP

 

[MikeJS]

BP - I can't see the Sureste ever getting overly busy which is fine by me. Hope the Lana goes well.

 

[MatteJa]

Hey @MikeJS I would love to download the spreadsheet you uploaded on Dropbox, but it says Error link not found ;(

 

[MikeJS]

Hey @MikeJS I would love to download the spreadsheet you uploaded on Dropbox, but it says Error link not found ;(

Sorry about that. My OCD makes me clean up everything so I deleted it. IN part because the guide provided in Alicante was more comprehensive.