LIVE from the Camino @Suzanas on the Lebaniego/Vadinense

[Suzanas]

Just arrived to San Vicente de la Barquera to start Camino Lebaniego tomorrow. Staying at the albergue municipal which is very nice. The plan is to connect more caminos: Lebaniego, Vadiniense, Olvidado and San Salvador, thus ending it in Oviedo. I just love the mountains, that is how the idea came up.Hope, everything goes well.

 

[norelle]

Just arrived to San Vicente de la Barquera to start Camino Lebaniego tomorrow. Staying at the albergue municipal which is very nice. The plan is to connect more caminos: Lebaniego, Vadiniense, Olvidado and San Salvador, thus ending it in Oviedo. I just love the mountains, that is how the idea came up.Hope, everything goes well.

Following with interest as I hope to walk this way inJuly! Buen camino

 

[Grahammac]

Wonderful. What a dream. I wish you all the best, especially through the tough times, and there will be many on this trip. Buen Camino.

 

[WestKirsty]

What a combo! I'll be watching with interest!

Happy mountain walking (and Buen Camino!)

 

[Suzanas]

What a combo! I'll be watching with interest!

Happy mountain walking (and Buen Camino!)

Thank you all for best wishes. The first day on Camino Lebaniego was great. Lots of nature and very little asphalt. The coffee and delicious tortilla in the bar in Serdio were very refreshing, it made me walk much faster. After Munorrodero the camino turns to the river Nanse, the information table says it's a 6,8 km long walk. Wherever there was a variant, I took the so called "aguas bajas" version as the water was low. Around 5 km before Cades I again chose the river version, which is not marked as a camino way but as a Senda fluvial del Nansa. Walking along the river was very nice and wild, with plenty of greens and interesting, sometimes gigantic trees. But it was also very humid. Around 500 meters before Cades I turned left over the bridge to stay at the hotel Casona del Nansa. Altogether I walked around 29 km (I missed the way once, just after Munorrodero, near the playground - instead of turning left I turned right on the bridge and made a kilometer long circle - but it was worth it). Tomorrow, the walking distance will be much shorter, to Cicera. Just by the way, it's a season of ticks.

 

[tecap]

I hope all goes well for you. This is a combination I have on my wish list; please keep us all informed on your progress; buen camino.

 

[peregrina2000]

The plan is to connect more caminos: Lebaniego, Vadiniense, Olvidado and San Salvador, thus ending it in Oviedo. I just love the mountains, that is how the idea came up.

Buen camino, I also love the mountains and will be interested to see how you combine these routes. Do you have your route planned? It looks like the most straightforward is Vadiniense to Cistierna (joining Olvidado) to Buiza (joining Salvador) to Oviedo. But maybe you’ll figure out (or have figured out) a way to get some more of those Olvidado mountain stages squeezed in there. Sounds like a great adventure!

Careful with the ticks! I had lots on the Olvidado. In fact, arriving in Cistierna at the Hotel Moderno for my second Olvidado, the woman at reception said — oh yes, I remember you, I took a tick out of your back! That had been about 6 years earlier, so it must have been a memorable event in her life.

 

[Suzanas]

Buen camino, I also love the mountains and will be interested to see how you combine these routes. Do you have your route planned? It looks like the most straightforward is Vadiniense to Cistierna (joining Olvidado) to Buiza (joining Salvador) to Oviedo. But maybe you’ll figure out (or have figured out) a way to get some more of those Olvidado mountain stages squeezed in there. Sounds like a great adventure!

Careful with the ticks! I had lots on the Olvidado. In fact, arriving in Cistierna at the Hotel Moderno for my second Olvidado, the woman at reception said — oh yes, I remember you, I took a tick out of your back! That had been about 6 years earlier, so it must have been a memorable event in her life.

That's exactly the combination . Which was carefully planned by my friend who is an experienced peregrina.

As for the ticks - I'm very much familiar with them. At home I also get them from time to time, this year unfortunately more than usual, we call them little beasts, the most dangerous animals.

 

[Suzanas]

Two more days of walking are behind me. Yesterday to Cicera, around 16 km, sleeping in the albergue. Then, after lunch (it is possible to cook there - whoever left the pasta there, thank you ). Before Cicera, the only possibility to eat is in Quintanillo. The lady, who also runs the nearby-shop, made a tortilla francesa for me. But before that she was in her shop, served me first, closed the shop and opened the restaurant, then went to her shop again. One-man-band . Where was I? Ah, in Cicera. After having made the pasta, I went to mirador Santa Catalina (760 m), about 2.3 km from the village. Very nice view! Anyway, Cicera is very beautiful. But no bar or a shop. The way itself was mostly asphalt, the ascent from Burio concrete.

Next day, that is today, the begining of the camino was steep, but through beautiful wood of oaks. In Lebena I took the sello in the church Santa Maria and then returned to the village because I decided for another version, camino viejo - Concha la cova. This old camino is said to be dangerous, well it depends how experienced you are with hiking in the mountains. I did not find it difficult, but I do lot of mountainiring. I loved that part a lot. In Tama I took a break for a nice cafe con leche (grande) and an orange juice and some sweet tart. Then it was much easier to go to Potes. In Potes I continued right away to San Toribio to get my Compostela for Lebana as they have such unpractical working hours: they work from 10. 00 a.m. to 14. 00 p. m. and then from 16.00 to 19.00 p. m. As I start early in the morning for Espinama, I would not be able to get the compostela. So I did another extra 6 km (3 km one way). And got the compostela (I finally got it at the shop, because the office for peregrinos was closed, although it should not have been). Tomorrow I'll start Camino Vadiniense. By the way, the menu del dia in Potes was delicious, for 17 euros. Then I took a nice walk along the river. Potes is a charming town, it is said to be the most photographed town in Cantabria.

 

[Grahammac]

Thanks Suzana. Keep the info coming, please. I am hoping to do it in Aug
Grahàm

 

[amancio]

That is an amazing mountain combination, indeed, you might still find even some snow in 3 or 4 days!
Ticks are a nasty thing, do make sure you check all your hairy, warm parts (will skip details here!) and the back of your knees too, they will look for that area and move in when you sit down to relax a bit.

I was around that area at this time of the year, 6 years ago, absolutely stunning, do try to find some time to take the cable car to the top of Fuente Dé, it is a unique experience (if you stay in Espinama, they will be able to arrange a lift for you to the base station of the cable car).
Buen camino!!!

 

[Suzanas]

That is an amazing mountain combination, indeed, you might still find even some snow in 3 or 4 days!
Ticks are a nasty thing, do make sure you check all your hairy, warm parts (will skip details here!) and the back of your knees too, they will look for that area and move in when you sit down to relax a bit.

I was around that area at this time of the year, 6 years ago, absolutely stunning, do try to find some time to take the cable car to the top of Fuente Dé, it is a unique experience (if you stay in Espinama, they will be able to arrange a lift for you to the base station of the cable car).
Buen camino!!!

It is amazing. The views are stuning.

I decided not to go to Fuente De, I rather admired it from the far . Instead I took the variant through the woods, which was very nice and shady. But, yes, I stayed in Espinama, at the Albergue Briz - I recommend it.

Buen camino to you too, wherever you are walking or planned to walk

 

[amancio]

It is amazing. The views are stuning.

I decided not to go to Fuente De, I rather admired it from the far . Instead I took the variant through the woods, which was very nice and shady. But, yes, I stayed in Espinama, at the Albergue Briz - I recommend it.

Buen camino to you too, wherever you are walking or planned to walk

I see! the albergue Briz is really nice, Aurora, the landlady in the bar, is fantastic, they gave us a lift to the cable car station, then picked us up when we came back from the summits. And yes, we took the woods shortcut too, unbelievable landscape on a sunny, cold June morning (and quite a bit of snow too!)

 

[Suzanas]

Finishing in Potes, I continued to Santo Toribio (again ) to start Camino Vadiniense. At Santo Toribio I was a bit confused where to go as there were so many arrows, but with the help of Gronze I found the beginning of Vadiniense. You have to follow the road to San Miguel and then on your left you'll see the path. Walking through the woods, sometimes quite steep, then reaching the road near the Camping San Pelayo where I was hoping to get my first coffee but I didn't find it. There were no signs. So I went on and hoped to get one in Mogrovejo. But still no luck. In Mogrovejo the bar is opened only on weekends. Finally, I got my coffee in Los Llanos, by the main road. The camino followed that road, along the river Deva. When reaching the river Cubo, I turned left to Parque National and followed Ruta de la Reconquista. I thought this would be a narrow path, I was surprised how wide and comfortable it was for walking. From time to time I found some strawberries. In Espinama I went straight to the Albergue Briz, washed my clothes and then tried to find something to eat. But I missed the lunch, it was siesta, meaning I should wait for dinner at 20.30. Luckily there was a bar/shop where I could get a plate with local food - tabla mixte was a combination of different types of local cheese, chorizo... it was delicious.

 

[Suzanas]

Today I walked from Espinama to Portilla de la Reina. So beautiful. I couldn't stop taking pictures. Didn't go to Fuente De but took the path through the woods. The higher I went the more amazing it was. The mountains, the views, the flowers, the birds... The highest point was at 1796 m (I think). When reaching the Puerto de Pandetrave (1562 m) there is a possibility to take a variant: you don't have to follow the road, if you want you can descend following the path along the stream. There is a sign. But I do not recommend it in wet conditions, there's a lot of water. This time it was ok and my legs were thankful. I met some very curios cows there and I also let my feet a kind of spa in a chilly but refreshing stream. But you can't avoid the road entirely. I reached the Portilla de la Reina by road. It was easy to find the albergue which was very nice with delicious food and very friendly hospitalieros. And they have two lovely cats and two dogs.

 

[Grahammac]

Suzanne, you are telling all your followers of real alternatives and great walks. Please continue. The way you describe things makes me want to pack my gear and head off now. Big thanks.

 

[Suzanas]

Today's walking was shorter, ca. 20 km, from Portilla de la Reina to Riano. It was very flat and mostly on the road but not dull at all. In Boca de Huergano I stoped for a coffee - you have to leave the camino path for a bit, the bar is on the main road. When arriving to Boca de H. there is a pastry if you want to buy bread, empanada con atun and alike. I bought myself an empanada. When you get to the Ermita de San Tirso you go by the lake, shortly after there is a split - the camino is to the right but there are no signs. I missed that and walked along the lake. Suddenly the road ended in the water. I just turned right walking towards the road which you can almost see. Even though I missed the way I was happy I did it.

 

[norelle]

Thank you for posting! I am following and making notes

 

[Suzanas]

Today's etapa was a long one, from Riano to Cistierna, almost 37 km. I hope it wasn't too much. Last 3 km were painful for my legs. I gave them some massage and talk really nice to them, so I hope they will be grateful.

I started walking early, at 6.50 in the morning. Just after I crossed the bridge from Riano, I turned right immediately and followed the "por monte" or"por camino" variant. I wanted to avoid the road, my legs prefer the paths. It was lovely, especially so early in the morning. But it is not flat. When I got out of the woods, I missed the way. I should have crossed the fence door, instead I turned left. An extra sign there would be helpful. Luckilly I have GPX Viewer. I soon realized I was wrong, just after some 100 m. I returned to the fence door and crossed it to descend. Soon I encountered a herd of horses. A memorable experience. When arriving to Horcadas, a bar was closed again, which I expected as it was still early. I continued to Las Salas, first on the main road, after the first tunnel I turned left to descend to the river. After that I was walking along the river (Esla) more or less all the time. In Cremenes I had a coffee, which was a very good decision because it started to rain just when I reached the bar. If you want to go to a bar/restaurant you have to cross the bridge and then return. When the rain stoped, I continued by the river to Cistierna. What I remembered most from this part is the place of abandoned mine. Really strange place.

Tonight I am staying at the Hostal Moderna which is great, the food delicious and the lady so friendly. Peregrinos get breakfast for free. If you want, they can prepare it in the evening and bring it to your room (coffee is in the thermo cup) - that was also my option because I start walking early.

Tonight I also said goodby to two peregrinos that we shared the camino so far. Sad moment. Although I don't really know them, there was a connection between us ... That's camino too.

Tomorrow I start camino Olvidado to Bonar.

Note from the mods. @Suzanas continues her camino on the Olvidado, HERE.

 

[HARMINIA]

Following with interest as I hope to walk this way inJuly! Buen camino

Following with interest. My plan is for oktober.

 

[Texasguy]

Following with interest. My plan is for oktober.

Planning to start October 18th, 2022

 

[Bauer]

Thank you all for best wishes. The first day on Camino Lebaniego was great. Lots of nature and very little asphalt. The coffee and delicious tortilla in the bar in Serdio were very refreshing, it made me walk much faster. After Munorrodero the camino turns to the river Nanse, the information table says it's a 6,8 km long walk. Wherever there was a variant, I took the so called "aguas bajas" version as the water was low. Around 5 km before Cades I again chose the river version, which is not marked as a camino way but as a Senda fluvial del Nansa. Walking along the river was very nice and wild, with plenty of greens and interesting, sometimes gigantic trees. But it was also very humid. Around 500 meters before Cades I turned left over the bridge to stay at the hotel Casona del Nansa. Altogether I walked around 29 km (I missed the way once, just after Munorrodero, near the playground - instead of turning left I turned right on the bridge and made a kilometer long circle - but it was worth it). Tomorrow, the walking distance will be much shorter, to Cicera. Just by the way, it's a season of ticks.

One recommendation: don’t stay in albergue cabañes, stay in the other one - C. José Fernández Cuétara, 5, 39584 Cabañes, Cantabria, Spain
It’s called albergue municipal de Cabañes, it can be confusing because the similar names but the difference in attention and the installations is huge! The municipal is at the end of the street and is hosted by a young couple, super nice and accommodating.
I got confused and stayed at the private one and regretted it badly.

 

[peregrina2000]

The plan is to connect more caminos: Lebaniego, Vadiniense, Olvidado and San Salvador, thus ending it in Oviedo.

I did something similar years ago - Lebaniego-Vadiniense- then to León for Salvador. Are you going to get off the Vadiniense in Cistierna, then go on the Olvidado to La Robla and then continue on the Salvador?

You may have time constraints of any one of a number of reasons for wanting to do this, but the sections on the Olvidado from Cistierna to La Robla (typically Cistierna to Boñar to La Robla) are unfortunately situated right after the mountains into Cistierna and before the mountain stages from Boñar — oh, BINGO!!! you are probably walking from Boñar to Vegacervera to Buiza and getting on the Olvidado there rather than in La Robla!

Would love to see pictures as you walk, those mountain sections are so wonderful. Buen camino.