LIVE from the Camino @Suzanas on the Olvidado and Salvador

[Suzanas]

Note from the Mods. The first part of this camino was on the Lebaniego/Vadiniense, which you can read about here.

Couldn't report yesterday, I was so tired. I started in Cistierna and ended in Bonar, ca. 27 km. Although almost flat, it's the heat that was very tiring. About 3 km before Bonar I was cooked, literally. And gained a nasty blister on my right foot. I couldn't step on the feet without pain. In Bonar I went straight to Hostal Nici and showered my feet with very cold water. What a relief. And then slept till dinner at 9 pm . In Bonar the temperature in the shade was 30 degrees. Before sleep I pinched my blister, put a thread in it and a lot of Betadin for disinfection. And hope in the morning I'll be fine.

There was a very touchy moment this day: my peregrino friend left a message in the sand on the point where our ways departed: he continued the Vadiniense, I the Olvidado.

 

[Suzanas]

Today I started walking earlier than yesterday. I didn't want to be totally cooked because of the heat. I started at 6.30 am. First part was easy, more or less flat, a real climb started in La Mata de Berbula (in Ranedo de Curueno I chose the Etapa 13B). I was happy to be in the mountains again. The views were great. Unfortunatelly I missed the way again, because there was a misleading sign just after reaching the first viewpoint. The signs says to go left, but really you should just continue the path. Also, when getting to wetlands it is hard to follow the signs. The last 10 km were mostly on the road. And like yesterday no bars or shops. My last stop today is Vegacervera where I'm staying in albergue in the camp. Dinner will be at 7.00 pm ( I was asked when I wanted it ) and breakfast prepared in the evening to have it early in the morning. There's no grocery shop in Vegacervera, but a butchery shop that also has fruits and vegetables and some dairy products. There's a bar and restaurant near camp, normally closed on Mondays, but I managed to get myself una cerveza.

 

[peregrina2000]

Unfortunatelly I missed the way again, because there was a misleading sign just after reaching the first viewpoint. The signs says to go left, but really you should just continue the path.

I am very sorry to hear about this. Is this the sign that took you in the wrong direction? Did you go to Aviados?

See this thread.

 

[Suzanas]

I am very sorry to hear about this. Is this the sign that took you in the wrong direction? Did you go to Aviados?

See this thread.

View attachment 127550

That's the sign. Yes, I started walking towards Aviados, almost reached the top when
my GPS warned me I was wrong. So I returned and followed the other path and after 50 m I found a yellow arrow. Probably both ways are ok, but there was only this sign, like this is the only option. After me there came a group of Spanish people and they also thought they should go right up. Well, that's camino. Anyway the view from there was great.

 

[Suzanas]

It was a great walk today, from Vegacervera to Poladura de la Tercia. Very diverse, lots of ups and downs.

The beginning was up, to get myself warm. But not difficult. After leaving the asphalt, the first part is flat, but soon the hilly part starts. At this point I saw a fox. Suddenly the path becomes almost unwalkable - lots of tall grass and very difficult to follow the signs. Sometimes the grass was taller than I. This continued for some 3 km or even more. I had scratches all over my legs as there were many thorns. But all was forgotten when I came to gorgeous Hoces de Villar, with its colourful pots, and magical El Faedo Forest. After the forest the route continues to Cinera de Gordon (there is a bar) and La Vid, passing the remains of an old mine. In La Vid the camino turns left, through a tunnel, and starts to ascend again. When descending there was again tall grass and a bit difficult to follow the signs. But you can avoid it by walking next to the path. The descent ends in Buiza.

In Buiza I left camino Olvidado and joined Camino del Salvador. I was on this camino in 2018, so it brought back many memories. The ascent to Alto Forcadas de San Antonio (1.462 m) was pretty hot but there was a gentle breeze all the time. After descent I reached the road to Poladura de la Tercia (which was more grassy then in year 2018) and the heat began to show. Just a 1,5 km before the Poladura I had to stop and hide myself in a shade. Of course I didn't take the shortcut to Poladura by the road, I followed the official way. I had a reservation in Posada el Embrujo (I reserved dinner as well; by-the-way they are closed on Mondays) and went straight there. There are two more peregrinos here and two are staying in the albergue. Not crowded.

Some more "technical" details: I gained one more blister today (altogether I have four now); in Poladura (elevation 1225 m) the temperature was 32.

 

[norelle]

Great photos Suzanas! I stayed in the Posada when I walked the Salvador in 2015!
Where did you download your GPS tracks from?

 

[Suzanas]

Great photos Suzanas! I stayed in the Posada when I walked the Salvador in 2015!
Where did you download your GPS tracks from?

The tracks are downloaded from www.rayyrosa.com. Very good site for peregrinos. Thanks a lot, Ray and Rosa

 

[Suzanas]

Another short etapa, from Poladura de la Tercia to Pajares, ca. 16 km. The etapa started with an ascent to Cruz de San Salvador and then a descent to Arbas del Puerto. From here to Puerto de Pajares. At the top I had a coffee in Mirador de Pajares. From 2018, when I first visited it, the Mirador lost its glory. The views from there are beautiful, but the building itself needs some refreshment. Just bellow the Mirador one notices yellow arrows pointing up (on a building) and avoiding the road. You go a bit up and then descend onto the road, cross it and very soon there's a crossroad: you can take a left variant to San Miguel or a straight one to Pajares. I chose to go to Pajares, because I did the variant to San Miguel in 2018. The descent to Pajares was nice and easy to follow. I arrived to Pajares quite early. The albergue was open, now I'm waiting for a dinner at 7 am (you have to call for lunch/dinner a day before - Bar el Mirador).

 

[peregrina2000]

Beautiful pictures! That is a gorgeous stretch, and you had lots of time to soak it all in. Is Marisa back at the hospitalera helm in Pajares?

And I totally agree with you about the former parador spot at the pass. That building was closed for many years, and when someone bought it the word was that it was going to be reopened as a hotel. That hasn’t happened, and the bar is less than totally charming, I agree. But the views are still spectacular!

The old “venta”/inn across the street is where you can get some decent home-cooked food, but then you don’t have the views, so it’s a trade-off.

And I hope your blisters are under control!!!

 

[Suzanas]

Beautiful pictures! That is a gorgeous stretch, and you had lots of time to soak it all in. Is Marisa back at the hospitalera helm in Pajares?

And I totally agree with you about the former parador spot at the pass. That building was closed for many years, and when someone bought it the word was that it was going to be reopened as a hotel. That hasn’t happened, and the bar is less than totally charming, I agree. But the views are still spectacular!

The old “venta”/inn across the street is where you can get some decent home-cooked food, but then you don’t have the views, so it’s a trade-off.

And I hope your blisters are under control!!!

Yes, Marisa is back and she has, at least today, an assistant, a young woman.

I noticed the old venta accross the street, but I am a bit of nostalgic.

Three blisters are under controll, still one to go. Thanks for your concern.

 

[Suzanas]

My third day on San Salvador, from Pajares to Benduenos. Although not a long etapa, but I was exhausted. Maybe because of the heat and humidity and my blisters. I noticed the camino has changed since 2018: now it goes through Santa Marina (in 2018 it didn't) . I liked it more that way, because Santa Marina is a nice village.

Today there were lots of ups and downs, mainly through woods or meadows and one 4 km long descent on asphalt. I was very happy to find some cherries and strawberries on the way. No shops or bars, so no coffee today .

In Herias I turned left for albergue in Benduenos which is about 1,5 km off the way. At the beginning of the ascent, a women, who lives in Benduenos, stoped her car and offered me a ride up - I gratefully accepted the offer.

Albergue in Benduenos is my favourite so far. Words cannot describe it, you have to come here and experience it. And appreciate the hospitality and the peacefulness of the place and of the people. Sandra is such a hearty and sunny person.

Tomorrow I plan to go to Mieres. It'll be very hot, according to the weather forecast. Must start early.

 

[norelle]

What a beautiful day on the camino! And to finish with such a welcoming albergue. I walked the Salvador in 2015. Even though I may notice a couple of changes, it looks still a quiet way.
I hope the heat settles down soon.
Buen camino.

 

[Suzanas]

What a beautiful day on the camino! And to finish with such a welcoming albergue. I walked the Salvador in 2015. Even though I may notice a couple of changes, it looks still a quiet way.
I hope the heat settles down soon.
Buen camino.

It's still a quiet way, which I like a lot. And being in that albergue felt like being in paradise.

The heat is still on, though. But if you start early, it's fine. After 12 it usually gets much more hot. Right now I'm shading in a bar in Ujo, by the church, drinking jugo de naranja natural.

Thanks for reading my impressions.

 

[Suzanas]

It was a hot day today. It was 36 when arriving in Mieres. But on whole, it was a nice walk, with some pleasant surprises and almost flat. This etapa has been slightly changed since I walked here in 2018. The part from Pola de Lena to Oju was different, not so much road, very little road actually. I was quite enthusiastic about it. Congrats to all who prepare, plan and maintain the ways, probably there are many. I know it takes lot of time and energy to do this.

Today there was no problem with searching bars - there were many on the way, the first was in Campumanes - and shops. As I already made myself coffee in albergue in Benduenos, I stoped for a drink in Oju/Oxu.

After Oju, it got really hot and these last 5 km were the toughest. I arrived in Mieres at 1.30 pm and went straight to the albergue at Residencia universitaria (this is actually a dormitory). Unfortunately, the old albergue is closed, it is said they would be building a new one. Well, I miss the old one. I also had lunch in Residencia univ., which was really cheap, 7 euros. And the room was 20 euros. Once again I felt like a student .

Tomorrow I'll finish my camino. I'll stay in Oviedo till Monday and then fly home.

 

[Suzanas]

Today's walk was lovely too. I got up at 5.30 am, to start walking early and avoiding the heat (but there was no heat today, it was actually perfect weather for walking, mostly cloudy). I need an hour to get myself ready: wash myself, have breakfast, take care of my blisters (which are ok now) and do the excercises - this was my everyday morning routine on the camino. Before I started the camino my tendon was already inflamed, so I consulted my physiotherapist and he showed me some excercises to do every morning before walking. He also instructed me to use a painkiller cream (like Voltaren) twice a day. And it worked, I had no problems with my legs, except the blisters.

My first stop today was very soon, it was on a bus station in Mieres which is just opposite the albergue Residencia universitaria - I stoped for a coffee there. I don't know when it opens but at 6.30 am it was open. After coffee there was a long walk through Mieres (the city itself is very long), passing the old albergue in La Pena and then starting a 4 km long ascent (asphalt) which ended in El Padrun. What goes up, goes down too, so, there was a descent, first on the path and then on the road again. There were two more ups and downs today, but none seemed difficult to me. In Oviedo you arrive downhill. I was in Oviedo just before noon. Went to the cathedral to get a stamp and then set on a bench on the square before the cathedral and watched people passing by. Not many pilgrims. There was a group of traditional Asturian folk dancers performing on the square (just like in 2018 when I finished San Salvador). I had mixed feeling, like always when I end a camino. I was happy because I did it and because it was a very precious experience, but sad because it was over.

Now I'm staying at the hostal El Vasco, till Monday. Oviedo is a lively city, whit great character. I'm excited to explore it more. Tomorrow I'll be walking to the ruins of a historic church called Iglesia Santa Maria del Naranco. It is situated on top of the hill which overlooks the city of Oviedo. On Monday I'll take a bus to Santander - that's where I fly from.

That's it. Till next camino. Wish you all good luck and Buen camino

 

[peregrina2000]

Congratulations, @suzannas! And kudos to you for keeping your tendon issues under control.

Enjoy your rest in Oviedo, it’s hard to imgine a more perfect place for R & R. You may already know this, but the Naranco sites are only open in the morning on Sunday. When I walked up there last September, I made a point to get there in time for the 9:30 opening. There is usually only one guy there in charge of both sites. He will open up Santa María right at 9:30, and then 20 minutes or so later, he locks it up, and walks up to San Miguel and gives a little tour. By the time I was back at Santa María there was a tour bus and a pretty good sized crowd there waiting to get in. I was happy to have gone through with just a handful of people. Nice to have it as empty as possible, because they are really amazing places!

 

[tecap]

Thank you so much for your informative and interesting reports. I hope your feet soon return to their original healthy state and you enjoy your rest day in Oviedo.

 

[Suzanas]

Congratulations, @suzannas! And kudos to you for keeping your tendon issues under control.

Enjoy your rest in Oviedo, it’s hard to imgine a more perfect place for R & R. You may already know this, but the Naranco sites are only open in the morning on Sunday. When I walked up there last September, I made a point to get there in time for the 9:30 opening. There is usually only one guy there in charge of both sites. He will open up Santa María right at 9:30, and then 20 minutes or so later, he locks it up, and walks up to San Miguel and gives a little tour. By the time I was back at Santa María there was a tour bus and a pretty good sized crowd there waiting to get in. I was happy to have gone through with just a handful of people. Nice to have it as empty as possible, because they are really amazing places!

Thanks for the information. Didn't know that. I'll try to get there early, it also depends on the weather, the forecast for tomorrow morning is not too good, it's possible to rain. But I'm looking forward to going there. Camino provides

 

[Suzanas]

Thank you so much for your informative and interesting reports. I hope your feet soon return to their original healthy state and you enjoy your rest day in Oviedo.

I'm happy to hear that. And, yes, my feet are almost perfect. Today I could walk normally again .
Take care

 

[AshIreGal]

That's the sign. Yes, I started walking towards Aviados, almost reached the top when
my GPS warned me I was wrong. So I returned and followed the other path and after 50 m I found a yellow arrow. Probably both ways are ok, but there was only this sign, like this is the only option. After me there came a group of Spanish people and they also thought they should go right up. Well, that's camino. Anyway the view from there was great.

Been there, Done that, Bought the T-shirt! The sign looks like it had a fresh coat of paint, but also caused me a lot of over and bad, and over and back...
So glad to stumble on you post ... I'm tempting to head to Spain next week, and was wondering if anyone on the Olvidado. If you arrive in a spot and cannot find accommodation, 'couch surfers' app helped me out once - I just cannot remember where that was.

 

[Suzanas]

Been there, Done that, Bought the T-shirt! The sign looks like it had a fresh coat of paint, but also caused me a lot of over and bad, and over and back...
So glad to stumble on you post ... I'm tempting to head to Spain next week, and was wondering if anyone on the Olvidado. If you arrive in a spot and cannot find accommodation, 'couch surfers' app helped me out once - I just cannot remember where that was.

I only met a group of four people on the part of Olvidado that I walked, not crowded at all. And this part was probably my favourite on this combination of four caminos.
Couch surfing is a good idea for accommodation, haven't crossed my mind. I usually start searching at Gronze, then I check at booking.com and also airbnb.com.