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Swabian Camino Rothenburg - Mulfingen- Speyer

Delphinoula

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
C. PdC 2018 Finisterre Muxía 2018
C.Franconia 2019 C.Algeciras Sevillia 2019
Swabian C. (2020)
Looking forward to some more walks and then I will be on my Swabian Camino. If you life on it along the Jagst and have some insider tips what not to miss from Rothenburg to Speyer be it a sight a rest stop or maybe bus connections, since I only can do the walk in portions and have to return to my home base.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Looking forward to some more walks and then I will be on my Swabian Camino. If you life on it along the Jagst and have some insider tips what not to miss from Rothenburg to Speyer be it a sight a rest stop or maybe bus connections, since I only can do the walk in portions and have to return to my home base.


Hi Delphinoula, that looks like a great plan, keep us posted to see how it works out. I have been thinking about a similar trip, different Camino, but returning home as long as this was doable and sleep in my own bed. Since public transport usually goes from the smaller villages to the bigger towns, you will do some extra sight seeing for free.

For those who are not familiar with the Caminos in Germany, this is the Rothenburg - Speyer trail:

karte-rothenburg-speyer.png
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Both Rothenburg and Speyer have lovely modern pilgrim statues near their respective cathedrals. Rothenburg's old town is walled and a huge tourist attraction, and has the cathedral and many restaurants. The pilgrim hostel and food shops are outside the walls. Speyer is on the Rhine, and a stopover for some river cruises. Town center is more modern and resupply is available. Do not miss the cathedral Treasury, with its beautiful reliquaries.
 
Rothenburg Sankt Jakobskirche


And yes it’s patron it’s there too and I greet him as an old friend. Over 40 years when I came with my grandma on an excursion to this place little did I know about
the 54297Camino.


Now they closing the church for real and I go to find the bakery my Grandma had treated me so long ago with the local speciality the Snowball. In memory of my Grandmama I eat the Snowball am determined should I ever have grandchildren we will come here too and I will tell them about the Camino my grandmother and the beautiful wood carving..



54296

From the pilgrims statue in front of the church you leave Rothenburg on the other side and maybe after the normally masses of people it’s good that there come a part of pretty uneventfulness.
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You walk now the Swabian Camino.
 

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You walk now the Swabian Camino. Likewise no real bus connection from Rothenburg to Schorzberg and the train goes via Paris for hours. So double tracking or maybe you have a car Sherpa?


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Schorzberg has nice pilgrim in front of the church, closed as so may that will come. You can visit a castle where Götz von Berlichingen grew up and if everything fails the Avia gas station has a stamp. You continue walking the so called high road until you dig down to the Jagst valley.


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Götz is the protagonist of one of Goethes plays and in school when we reading it, we were in an age or should I say better when the boys discovered the manliness (with 12) with rustic behavior like burping and all kinds of bodily functions. So Götz became their hero. He had told his imperial highness who demanded that he give his castle over to kiss his behind. Goethe had little qualms to write it verbatim down in his play and so making him eternal. After reading in class this section there was so much quoting Goethe - the German Shakespeare that our teacher stop the ruckus with saying if we would say Götz von Berlichingen everybody would know what we meant. So Götz stayed for weeks in at least the boys repertoire.

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After the plain you come down close to Heimhausen with an old historical bridge and a bench where you can sit indicate with the area you direction and wait for someone giving you a ride. Along the Jagst to Heimhausen.
 
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€46,-
Heimhausen
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Close to the bridge is a Biergarten and they provide with no cost a bathroom, but common courtesy would let you at least leave a tip plus this is the last refreshment stop for a while.

Now along the river towards Mulfingen.

The oldest still existing language traditions are place names. In old high German the ending ing means belongs to a place or a family or a name. The ending Ingen points towards the 6th or 7th century when the Franco- Alemanns now Swabians started to settle here. Later Franconian would be administrative names like Nordheim , Ostheim or Sont(South)heim . The ending ing point towards the Baiuwazrs now Bavarians. Sometime the old Celtic names survived like Kempten meaning leaning castle.
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Mulfingen greets you with a cover bridge and the Pigrims church St. Anna close to a healing fountain, now keine Trinkwasser, and was part of the Franconian dukedom. The sanctuary most likely superseded an old pagan worship lace.
Don’t forget your stamp there are not so many on the way.

54313
 
If you want to do yourself a favor stay on this side of the river and follow the signes.
I caught a ride from Krautheim to Mulfingen and thinking according to google I could walk as well on the other side . Ok you can.
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But then the river takes a turn towards some cliffs and no choice but up or back. Of course I went up hoping my knee would not give out. Shortly contemplating what to tell the rescue line in case I break something. Well if everything fails the police will sent their heat seeking camera on a helicopter. From the area I am from we have mountain rangers ( Bergwacht) and we have no shortage on dumb climbers like me. But if not graceful like a goat I made it up and took a well deserved break on top.
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The advantage was I walk a while downhill👍.
 
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Mulfingen Hohebach Dörzbach

Spring is now in full blast. Can’t tell you how after all the winter weather walking my heart opens up. The trees have a light hue of glorious blooming to come.

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If you look closely you see the vertical stone hills. In between they had planted wine and every year the earth would move stones up and then for centuries the farmer would built stone by stone those walls. A lot of sweet went into this. A side effect was that the stone walls keeps the plants warm.

Hohebach
Has larg Jakobskirche, but closed. No stamps neither.
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St. Wendelin im Stein

Another sanctuary built on top of an ancient worship place. They are caves sourinding it. You walk out of the village and up the hill halfway. Then you see the shell and a name sign.

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You walk through a patch of Forrest full with Bärlauch. It tast a little bit like garlic.
I have never seen so many.
I was in luck. The church was open. First with all the steps going down my knees where saying oh no. But I convinced them I would be careful. It was worth it. On side is pure rock you can walk through it and a nice steady slope gets you back on the road.
There is a guesthouse close by. A couple cost 65 with breakfast.
 
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Dörzbach with its castle and its church locked you see the local nobility was in Santiago and took the shells in their code of armor. So until today the city seal sports the shell.
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This is it for me so far. I will have to rest up and work some until Spain awaits me.
I will post some more as I go. Thank you for coming with me.
 
Rothenburg Sankt Jakobskirche


And yes it’s patron it’s there too and I greet him as an old friend. Over 40 years when I came with my grandma on an excursion to this place little did I know about
the View attachment 54297Camino.


Now they closing the church for real and I go to find the bakery my Grandma had treated me so long ago with the local speciality the Snowball. In memory of my Grandmama I eat the Snowball am determined should I ever have grandchildren we will come here too and I will tell them about the Camino my grandmother and the beautiful wood carving..



View attachment 54296

From the pilgrims statue in front of the church you leave Rothenburg on the other side and maybe after the normally masses of people it’s good that there come a part of pretty uneventfulness.
View attachment 54300View attachment 54301
You walk now the Swabian Camino.
..... O D Tabor! 2 Special trips here, but via rental car!
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
O D Tabor not quite familiar with that Saint? 🤔
 
Oh this is great! Many thanks Delphinoula, please keep on walking!
 

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