Thank You :)

[irishgurrrl]

Hey folks,

I just want to thank everyone who has helped me on this forum. You are all a fantastic bunch of people and nothing ever seems too much trouble.

Anyway, on my way to Campiello today. Finding the ole hills tough on this Camino but sure slow and steady will get me there at any rate

Go raibh mile maith agaibh! (Thanks in Irish).

Eilish

 

[NualaOC]

Buen Camino Eilis, agus go n-éirí an bóthar leat! I have very fond memories of Campiello, especially of the lovely people at Albergue Casa Ricardo.

You're right, slow and steady is the way to go. The challenges of the Primitivo are very well rewarded by its beauty and serenity. Good luck!

 

[irishgurrrl]

Buen Camino Eilis, agus go n-éirí an bóthar leat! I have very fond memories of Campiello, especially of the lovely people at Albergue Casa Ricardo.

You're right, slow and steady is the way to go. The challenges of the Primitivo are very well rewarded by its beauty and serenity. Good luck!

Thanks Much clearer skies today after the heavy fog yesterday so looking forward to being able to see the lovely scenery!

 

[wayfarer]

Go safely Eilish, have a great Camino.
Buen Camino.

 

[irishgurrrl]

Go safely Eilish, have a great Camino.
Buen Camino.

Thanks! Ok best get on my way!

 

[VNwalking]

Buen Camino and ultreia, Eilish...may the wind be at your back as you eat up those hills one step at a time!

 

[irishgurrrl]

Thanks!

Buen Camino and ultreia, Eilish...may the wind be at your back as you eat up those hills one step at a time!

 

[Shauna]

Loving reading your posts. Just noticed you are doing Everest in October. That is on my list, we did Annapurna trek a couple of years ago and it was fab.
Buen camino!

 

[alaskadiver]

Loving reading your posts. Just noticed you are doing Everest in October. That is on my list, we did Annapurna trek a couple of years ago and it was fab.
Buen camino!

We did the Annapurna circuit and loved it. Good 3 weeks of beautiful views and extreme altitude. Never interested in the Everest Base Camp trek as its shorter and a way one trek.

 

[alaskadiver]

Thanks! Ok best get on my way!

How many pilgrims on the trail?

 

[irishgurrrl]

Loving reading your posts. Just noticed you are doing Everest in October. That is on my list, we did Annapurna trek a couple of years ago and it was fab.
Buen camino!

Thanks! Do you mean my Instagram account? Delighted you're enjoying my posts. I'm finding it a nice way to record my hiking adventures Yep can't wait for Nepal. I've a serious amount of training to do in the meantime to get my fitness levels up but hoping this Camino will help

 

[irishgurrrl]

How many pilgrims on the trail?

Hi, good question. It seems to vary dramatically depending on the night and where I'm staying. It seemed relatively quiet here in Campiello this evening but I expect to hit a bottleneck in Berducedo again (it's the first town with accommodation after both the Hospitales Route and Pola de Allande variant. I'm taking a rest day tomorrow before I do the Hospitales route tomorrow. I'm going to do what Anemone suggests and get a taxi to Berducedo from where the Hospitales route meets the road (before the long descent). That'll mean I'll be walking about 20km instead of c.29km.

By the way, Casa Ricardos in Campiello is great! Gorgeous ensuite private rooms and they also have dorms. I got a discount for only being one in a twin room (paying €25). The room standard is very high so it's well worth it in my book They provide free teas, coffees, biscuits and cakes etc to anyone staying there (in the kitchen). The owners /staff are lovely and very helpful too.

 

[HighlandsHiker]

Hi, good question. It seems to vary dramatically depending on the night and where I'm staying. It seemed relatively quiet here in Campiello this evening but I expect to hit a bottleneck in Berducedo again (it's the first town with accommodation after both the Hospitales Route and Pola de Allande variant. I'm taking a rest day tomorrow before I do the Hospitales route tomorrow. I'm going to do what Anemone suggests and get a taxi to Berducedo from where the Hospitales route meets the road (before the long descent). That'll mean I'll be walking about 20km instead of c.29km.

By the way, Casa Ricardos in Campiello is great! Gorgeous ensuite private rooms and they also have dorms. I got a discount for only being one in a twin room (paying €25). The room standard is very high so it's well worth it in my book They provide free teas, coffees, biscuits and cakes etc to anyone staying there (in the kitchen). The owners /staff are lovely and very helpful too.

That sounds lovely! Did you reserve ahead at Casa Ricardos, Irish Gurrrl?? I read somewhere last night that the albergue in Borres has triple-high bunks, which sounds kind of awful, so getting a room in Campiello sounds like a good idea . If you think of it, could you post how you went about getting the taxi transacted? Hope you have a very good rest day there in Campiello. It sounds like the views over the Hospitales route are spectacular.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

lovely! Did you reserve ahead at Casa Ricardos, Irish Gurrrl??

Read that as well, but that it was still only for 20 people, and it was regular bunks when I was there. I am curious about the tripple decker setup. I don't remember the ceiling being particularly high to accomodate another row of beds.

 

[CaminoDebrita]

Thanks Much clearer skies today after the heavy fog yesterday so looking forward to being able to see the lovely scenery!

Did I meet on on the West Highland Way, in September 2016? You look familiar, and I was there that month! Or, I should say, what I can see of you looks familiar!

 

[irishgurrrl]

Did I meet on on the West Highland Way, in September 2016? You look familiar, and I was there that month! Or, I should say, what I can see of you looks familiar!

Hmm not sure? I was there in Sept alright so it's highly possible! Do you remember where we may have met?

 

[irishgurrrl]

That sounds lovely! Did you reserve ahead at Casa Ricardos, Irish Gurrrl?? I read somewhere last night that the albergue in Borres has triple-high bunks, which sounds kind of awful, so getting a room in Campiello sounds like a good idea . If you think of it, could you post how you went about getting the taxi transacted? Hope you have a very good rest day there in Campiello. It sounds like the views over the Hospitales route are spectacular.

I just phoned the night before as I wanted a private room and they only have about two or three as far as I know. But they weren't busy in the albergue part at all. Only 4 pilgrims last night plus me. I kinda feel sorry for them as I suspect Herminias gets the majority of the hiker business... Not that there's any crime in that but they deserve to do well. By the way they have a bar that does (a limited range of) food as well as a great little grocery store adjoining the bar which is well stocked with pasta, fresh fruit, canned goods, toiletries, sweets, chocolate, biscuits, bread, jamon, dried sausages etc i.e. the usual.

 

[irishgurrrl]

That sounds lovely! Did you reserve ahead at Casa Ricardos, Irish Gurrrl?? I read somewhere last night that the albergue in Borres has triple-high bunks, which sounds kind of awful, so getting a room in Campiello sounds like a good idea . If you think of it, could you post how you went about getting the taxi transacted? Hope you have a very good rest day there in Campiello. It sounds like the views over the Hospitales route are spectacular.

Will do.

 

[HighlandsHiker]

I just phoned the night before as I wanted a private room and they only have about two or three as far as I know. But they weren't busy in the albergue part at all. Only 4 pilgrims last night plus me. I kinda feel sorry for them as I suspect Herminias gets the majority of the hiker business... Not that there's any crime in that but they deserve to do well. By the way they have a bar that does (a limited range of) food as well as a great little grocery store adjoining the bar which is well stocked with pasta, fresh fruit, canned goods, toiletries, sweets, chocolate, biscuits, bread, jamon, dried sausages etc i.e. the usual.

I'll gladly book there for that night, and thanks for the good information. Hope your rest day is peaceful - looked like rain on the forecast.

 

[irishgurrrl]

I'll gladly book there for that night, and thanks for the good information. Hope your rest day is peaceful - looked like rain on the forecast.

Just eating an early dinner in Herminias and it's very good. You can do the pilgrim or normal menu. I went with the normal. Probably better to eat at Herminias based on choice but Ricardos does have a limited menu so you can eat in their bar if you prefer not to cook your own.

 

[HighlandsHiker]

Just eating an early dinner in Herminias and it's very good. You can do the pilgrim or normal menu. I went with the normal. Probably better to eat at Herminias based on choice but Ricardos does have a limited menu so you can eat in their bar if you prefer not to cook your own.

It's good to know Ricardos has some food if needed. One time ended up with half-frozen croquettes casera for dinner in Cacabelos - not the best Camino meal. Will eat at Herminias, then, and stay at Casa Ricardos to give business to the "underdog", which actually sounds like an especially good option. Have a good evening and a good rest tonight!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Hoping you get good weather so you can take the Hospitales route tomorrow.

 

[irishgurrrl]

The forecast is really good so fingers crossed! The girl working behind the bar in Casa Ricardo booked the taxi for me. Hoping it all works out ok.

Hoping you get good weather so you can take the Hospitales route tomorrow.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

The forecast is really good so fingers crossed! The girl working behind the bar in Casa Ricardo booked the taxi for me. Hoping it all works out ok.

Fingers crossed! Take your time up there, and lots of photos.

 

[HighlandsHiker]

The forecast is really good so fingers crossed! The girl working behind the bar in Casa Ricardo booked the taxi for me. Hoping it all works out ok.

I'm so glad to know it's possible to do things that way and thank both you and Anemone so much! 29K of that stretch with that endless steep descent at the end just sounds like a killer. I read what Laurie wrote about it being, "the longest 3.8K ever hiked". Will be eager to hear how your day goes and very glad you'll probably have good weather. Stay warm!

 

[timr]

I just phoned the night before as I wanted a private room and they only have about two or three as far as I know. But they weren't busy in the albergue part at all. Only 4 pilgrims last night plus me. I kinda feel sorry for them as I suspect Herminias gets the majority of the hiker business... Not that there's any crime in that but they deserve to do well. By the way they have a bar that does (a limited range of) food as well as a great little grocery store adjoining the bar which is well stocked with pasta, fresh fruit, canned goods, toiletries, sweets, chocolate, biscuits, bread, jamon, dried sausages etc i.e. the usual.

I'm remembering now it was Spanish Mother's Day when I reached Campiello which must have been tomorrow last year, if you follow! Herminia's was throbbing with people. Celebrating their Mums and I can't argue with that. Ricardo's was a haven of peace for lunch. I stayed in Borres. So another vote for the underdog!
Have a wonderful day tomorrow.

 

[irishgurrrl]

I'm remembering now it was Spanish Mother's Day when I reached Campiello which must have been tomorrow last year, if you follow! Herminia's was throbbing with people. Celebrating their Mums and I can't argue with that. Ricardo's was a haven of peace for lunch. I stayed in Borres. So another vote for the underdog!
Have a wonderful day tomorrow.

Yes Casa Ricardos is lovely. The girl (Sylvia) working behind the bar is really sound. She has helped me out with lots of stuff and has been fun to chat to. (She has good English so we've mainly conversed in English even though I try to say what little I can in Spanish). Yep hopefully tomorrow goes well and I manage ok. I have the Camino app which includes GPS tracks of the route so I'm unlikely to go astray even if the clouds come down.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Yes Casa Ricardos is lovely. The girl (Sylvia) working behind the bar is really sound. She has helped me out with lots of stuff and has been fun to chat to. (She has good English so we've mainly conversed in English even though I try to say what little I can in Spanish). Yep hopefully tomorrow goes well and I manage ok. I have the Camino app which includes GPS tracks of the route so I'm unlikely to go astray even if the clouds come down.

If the clouds come down, stay put. The crest/walking path is super narrow in some areas, and the tumble down the hill could be your last.

 

[irishgurrrl]

I'm so glad to know it's possible to do things that way and thank both you and Anemone so much! 29K of that stretch with that endless steep descent at the end just sounds like a killer. I read what Laurie wrote about it being, "the longest 3.8K ever hiked". Will be eager to hear how your day goes and very glad you'll probably have good weather. Stay warm!

 

[timr]

Looking forward to hearing how you got on! It's a year to the day tomorrow since I did it. I hope you got the views without being too hot. I've walked from Cercedilla to La Granja de San Ildefonso - a variant for the day before Segovia on the Madrid. VERY steep start for 6km then gentle 20km down all the way. Bits reminded me of Primitivo. A bovine encounter which I'll record on CM page! Temp still 22 now at 7pm. Four days finished and I still have not met another pilgrim! Rest well tonight!

 

[irishgurrrl]

I'm so glad to know it's possible to do things that way and thank both you and Anemone so much! 29K of that stretch with that endless steep descent at the end just sounds like a killer. I read what Laurie wrote about it being, "the longest 3.8K ever hiked". Will be eager to hear how your day goes and very glad you'll probably have good weather. Stay warm!

Aghhh so annoying, after poor wifi yesterday I just typed out a nice long update on how things went yesterday and I lost the post! Way past Camino bedtime here so will have to wait till tomorrow I guess!

 

[irishgurrrl]

P.S.not up to date as couldn't post yesterday and didn't have time today but I'm microblogging about the Camino on my Instagram account www.instagram.com/mayogurrrl if you are interested. Lots of mini videos as well as photos (By the way, I only keep it open/public while on my hiking trips as otherwise I switch it back to private)

P.P.S. Hope it's ok to share the Instagram account info. If not feel free to delete (admins).

 

[irishgurrrl]

@irishgurrrl
In fact something came with the email notification!
Here it us you can cut and paste and repost?

Hi,

Didn't have good wifi yesterday so quick update on the Hospitales route. The weather was perfect if a tad hot (by Irish standards!). No wind or rain so great for hiking. The taxi worked out well. I found the going tough enough to be honest and was glad I made the decision to stop at Puerto del Palo.

That was only a little part of it so I deleted it to avoid confusion. The final version was much longer Thanks though I'll hopefully have good wifi tomorrow

 

[timr]

I've deleted

 

[irishgurrrl]

I've deleted

Thanks. I'll try again tomorrow. That'll teach me for be so long winded haha

 

[timr]

P.S.not up to date as couldn't post yesterday and didn't have time today but I'm microblogging about the Camino on my Instagram account www.instagram.com/mayogurrrl if you are interested. Lots of mini videos as well as photos (By the way, I only keep it open/public while on my hiking trips as otherwise I switch it back to private)

P.P.S. Hope it's ok to share the Instagram account info. If not feel free to delete (admins).

Your the first person I've ever looked at on Imstagram, though I've had an account for ages. Fabulous pics! I must explore more. When I have time.....

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I was wondering about you when I didn't see a post this morning. Looking forward to reading all about it.

 

[HighlandsHiker]

Aghhh so annoying, after poor wifi yesterday I just typed out a nice long update on how things went yesterday and I lost the post! Way past Camino bedtime here so will have to wait till tomorrow I guess!

Arghhh, so annoying when that happens! Glad you're doing alright, thanks for dropping a note even after the delete problem, and will be happy to hear how it was for you.....and glad that you weren't abducted by aliens from the peak:0)). I'm still confused about whether the peak is the Alto de la Marta (evidently some kind of weasel in the fox family) or Alto de la Morta, which is surely what I'll feel like if I make it there. Sleep well, happy trails tomorrow!

 

[HighlandsHiker]

P.S.not up to date as couldn't post yesterday and didn't have time today but I'm microblogging about the Camino on my Instagram account www.instagram.com/mayogurrrl if you are interested. Lots of mini videos as well as photos (By the way, I only keep it open/public while on my hiking trips as otherwise I switch it back to private)

P.P.S. Hope it's ok to share the Instagram account info. If not feel free to delete (admins).

So many of those could be postcards. What a good eye you have!

 

[irishgurrrl]

So many of those could be postcards. What a good eye you have!

Thanks. Really nice of you to say. I'm enjoying taking the mini videos as you get a much better feel for a place with all the sights and sounds through watching a mini-video than a photo

 

[irishgurrrl]

I was wondering about you when I didn't see a post this morning. Looking forward to reading all about it.

As requested here is my update on the Hospitales Route (second time lucky posting this hopefully! )

On Sunday I hiked from Campiello to Puerto de la Marta via the Hospitales Route. Not sure how far that is exactly but I think it's around 17km or so from my starting point in Campiello. Alto de la Marta is the first place the Camino crosses a main road after the last of the hospital ruins. I had prearranged (via Casa Ricardo in Campiello) for a taxi (Taxi Luis) to collect me from Puerto del Palo (aka Alto de Palo) at 3pm. This is the next place the Camino crosses a main road about 2.5km or so after Puerto de la Marta. I took the phone number of the taxi company with me just in case I needed to change the arrangements in any way en route.

As it turned out I got started that morning over an hour later than planned and it was taking me a lot longer to get to the meeting point than expected so I phoned the taxi driver while en route to let him know. He was very accommodating. I also changed the pick up time too to make sure I would definitely be at the meeting point on time. (Progress was slow en route as I took so many photos and videos of the views (!!!) and I like to take my time going uphill). The weather was so good I liked the idea of chilling out and enjoying the views if I arrived earlier than expected. As it turned out I arrived an hour earlier than the revised pick up time so it was all good.

So what did I think of the route? The answer is.... nothing short of spectacular. The views of surrounding hills and mountains are so beautiful, the solitude is fantastic, the trail itself a joy to walk on. In short it is wonderful.

Is it tough? Yes.

Is it doable? Again... yes.

Would I do it again?... Hell yes!

My Top Tips for the Hospitales Route:
1. Only choose to hike the full 29+km if you are confident of your fitness and stamina. It's not extremely difficult terrain wise (the section of trail I did was lovely!) but the climb after Borres does go on and on (for several km) with some steep climbs in places. Also after Puerto del Alto there is (I have been told) a very steep descent with loose rocks underfoot. A good few pilgrims I chatted with after commented that it was a tough stage even those who had already walked the del Norte or Camino del Salvador. It's doable of course especially if you have a good level of hill fitness but just make sure you're fit enough is all I'm saying. I knew I wasn't fit enough for the whole stage so adapted accordingly The taxi is easy to arrange and a good option for those who don't feel they can manage the full stage
2. Watch the weather: I was blessed with perfect stable weather with fairly clear skies and no wind. If the weather is looking dodgy it is advisable to take the lower route via Pola de Allande. If in doubt ask the locals.
3. Bring enough food and water. The bar in Lago was closed the day I walked the stage. This is the first bar after the mountain stage. The taxi driver told me it doesn't open on Sunday's. It's probably best not to rely on it as a stopping point? I used all of my water so just had enough. I would have needed a lot more if I continued on after Alto de la Marta.
4. Allow lots of time to do this stage. If you are anything like me you'll want to stop and take lots of photos. This could reduce the distance walked per hour considerably. My advice would be start early and you will then have the whole day to complete the stage.
5. Don't rely on having phone reception for all of this route. In my experience I had reception for most of the way but it was patchy. If you expect to need to make a phonecall keep an eye on your phone signal

Ok think that's it. My tuppence worth on the Hospitales Route. As long winded as ever haha but hopefully of use to you.

Eilish

 

[HighlandsHiker]

That's such great information, Eilish, and thanks for posting it for others doing it in the future. This is thorough and helps very much. Congratulations on completing such an arduous day!

 

[irishgurrrl]

That's such great information, Eilish, and thanks for posting it for others doing it in the future. This is thorough and helps very much. Congratulations on completing such an arduous day!

No worries at all

By the way, I've started posting some pics and video of the Hospitales stage on my Instagram. More to follow later.

Unfortunately I am sick today with a bug /virus (feels like the start of what I had just before I came over) so staying in Grandas de Salime tonight. As I'm sick I realistically won't manage the 22+km stages coming up. I think I might just skip ahead to Fonsegrado and/or Lugo and chill out, rest and recuperate. It may mean no more Camino walking but no matter as I'll definitely be returning to do this Camino again and hopefully in its entirety! Some R&R sounds good right about now though it has to be said

 

[HighlandsHiker]

No worries at all

By the way, I've started posting some pics and video of the Hospitales stage on my Instagram. More to follow later.

Unfortunately I am sick today with a bug /virus (feels like the start of what I had just before I came over) so staying in Grandas de Salime tonight. As I'm sick I realistically won't manage the 22+km stages coming up. I think I might just skip ahead to Fonsegrado and/or Lugo and chill out, rest and recuperate. It may mean no more Camino walking but no matter as I'll definitely be returning to do this Camino again and hopefully in its entirety! Some R&R sounds good right about now though it has to be said

Will definitely be checking your Instagram intermittently, Eilish, and so sorry you're feeling sick. It's not easy to be far away from home and feeling rotten. You're probably getting in some electrolyte replacement in regular food to help with whatever was lost from strenuous hiking. Good you have a plan for getting some R&R. Lugo sounds nice - I'll probably end mine there and head down to Portugal afterwards. Hope you feel better soon!

 

[irishgurrrl]

Will definitely be checking your Instagram intermittently, Eilish, and so sorry you're feeling sick. It's not easy to be far away from home and feeling rotten. You're probably getting in some electrolyte replacement in regular food to help with whatever was lost from strenuous hiking. Good you have a plan for getting some R&R. Lugo sounds nice - I'll probably end mine there and head down to Portugal afterwards. Hope you feel better soon!

It's a tummy bug/virus of some sort at the moment so yep walking is not a good idea. Hopefully it's short lived and I can do more stages along this Camino. I was already behind schedule after taking a rest day Campiello and today's shorter day means I'm effectively two days behind so I have to skip two days I had planned to walk regardless. I might just hike locally wherever I end up. I don't mind either way as I'll be back here again at some stage. Will have to play it by ear I guess. Fingers crossed its short lived!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

So glad the weather was on your side and that the taxi planning worked out for you. I will go looks at your pics on your account.

Take care of yourself - farmacias always happy to help. If you plan on walking firther, you can do a short 10km day to Castro and visit the ruins in the afternoon. Lovely albergue juvenil, with large backyard, and a very interesting visit.

 

[irishgurrrl]

So glad the weather was on your side and that the taxi planning worked out for you. I will go looks at your pics on your account.

Take care of yourself - farmacias always happy to help. If you plan on walking firther, you can do a short 10km day to Castro and visit the ruins in the afternoon. Lovely albergue juvenil, with large backyard, and a very interesting visit.

Yep thanks for all your advice on the taxi It made doing the Hospitales Route possible for me which was fantastic.

Yep, I was thinking I could do the short walk to Castro tomorrow alright assuming I feel anyways better. Maybe a there and back which would be about 10km as you say (and downhill on the way back which'd make it much easier on my energy levels) or I could stay overnight in Castro exploring the Roman site and then walk the short distance back to Grandas de Salime the day after tomorrow I'll have a better idea of how the old tummy is over the next 12 or so hours. It's good to have options at any rate and I'd prefer to keep walking if at all possible

 

[irishgurrrl]

Hey folks,

Back home in Ireland after my Spanish adventure. Thought it might be useful to some to provide info/ thoughts on the accommodation I stayed in along the way.... (Important Notes: Prices quoted are for one person in a private room. Prices may fluctuate depending on season and if two to a room etc. Also prices on booking.com can also vary so may find you get a better or worse deal than I got depending on the usual factors). I'll do this as a series of posts so check newer posts for more info...

Oviedo - Hostal Alvarez:
Comfortable clean private room with en suite. Nothing overly fancy but it was a nice room simply decorated. My room had a desk and chair. Hairdryer available on demand. Helpful and friendly owners. Located within short walk of bus / train station and "around the corner" from bus stop to Naranco sites. (€45. Booked using booking.com)

El Esclampero - Pension at El Tendejon de Fernando:
On the Camino. This is the pension attached to the only (but excellent!) restaurant in the village of the same name. Lovely hosts. Great room. Shared bathroom. Very clean and comfortable. Nicely decorated. I was put in a twin room and it was lovely. Hairdryer available on request. Living room with sofa, tv and dining table available for guests. (€35. Booked over phone. Google the name to get their contact info). Go to bar when you arrive to be escorted to the pension. P.S. The restaurant is excellent I ordered a bocadilla the evening before (for lunch the next day) as the little shop in the village was closed.

Grado - Hotel Auto Bar:
On the Camino. Towards end of the (longish) town and on the Camino. Basic but nice room with ensuite. Clean and comfortable. Helpful owner. They do food on site in the bar/restaurant area. (€20 for the ensuite room. Booked over the phone).

Cornellana - Albergue de Pelegrinos
Stayed at the albergue in the old monastery. Lovely albergue in a lovely old building with high ceilings. Lockers available if you need them. Courtyard area lovely outside. Kitchen /dining area nice with free tea and coffee but limited cooking options (two hot plates and microwave if I remember correctly) so cooking could be tricky on busier evenings). Washer/dryer available in separate building in outside courtyard area. (You may need to ask.) Only sleeps about 16 so get there early on busier days if you want to guarantee yourself a bed. Both hotels in the town are now closed. There are at least two holiday lets in the town BUT I got the impression they prefer longer lets than one night so I wouldn't rely on them as an option. (€5 for bed suggested. I gave extra as a donation).

Salas - Hotel Castilla de Valles
Treated myself to a night in the castle. Right smack in the centre of town. Interesting and beautiful building. Lovely ensuite room with a bath! ( yes I used it!) Breakfast starts at around 8am so too late for me.... I ate in my room (bought a pre made and delicious salad from the local supermarket). A reputedly great restaurant opposite the hotel though if you don't mind waiting too 8pm to eat. (Approx. €56. Booked over phone. Can't remember exactly what I paid but I haggled the price down from €64 saying I was a pilgrim etc).

Tineo - Pension La Posada
Slightly off the Camino (less that 2 min walk). Very clean and modern pension in town. I slept in an ensuite twin room. Perhaps lacking a little atmosphere or character but really clean and high standard of room. Nice owner (living in apartment above as far as I could work out). Hairdryer available on request. Washer and dryer €3 each. Good "help yourself" breakfast of juice, toast, butter, jam, cakes and croissants in the morning with tea/coffee. (€30 via booking.com)

Campiello - Casa Ricardo
On the Camino. Gorgeous private (twin) ensuite room in pretty stone building. Great value for the price! Very clean with a very high standard of decor. Hairdryer available in ensuite. Great well stocked kitchen for cooking with free cereal, milk, tea, coffee, biscuits and cakes for guests staying in either the albergue or private rooms. The dormatory rooms also looked nice. Lovely outside courtyard area. Bar with shop opposite. Basic meals available. Casa Herminia might be better for the evening meal? Very helpful and friendly staff and owners who can't do enough for you. Highly recommended. Wifi signal a little weak in accommodation area but there's a good signal in the bar (paid €25 for the room. Free breakfast. Booked over phone. I think I got a special discount though as I had originally been quoted €30).

Berducedo - Pension Casa Marques (above bar)
Not my favourite if I being honest but perfectly acceptable considering the very low price for a private room. It's just an old run down building with dated decor but nothing wrong with it. If you can overlook the dated decor and the things that need replacing you'll be fine. Bathrooms were clean etc which is the main thing. Friendly bar staff. 'Twas grand. (€20. Shared bathroom. Booked over phone. Meals available on site in the bar/restaurant).

More to follow....

Eilish

 

[irishgurrrl]

Accommodation contd:....

Embalse de Salime - Hotel las Grandas
Nice hotel overlooking the dam and valley. Got a lovely twin room ensuite with bath (yay!) and great view of water/dam! Good food available on site. I booked on a booking site but I spotted that their own website was better value price wise. Unfortunately the phone was patchy in Berducedo so they couldn't hear me when I phoned to reserve. (€35 online but check the hotels own website for special deals)

Grandas de Salime - Hotel la Barra
Great hotel. Really lovely modern ensuite rooms of a great standard. Mine even had a small terrace! Very helpful and kind owner. There are building works onsite at the moment in an adjoining building. I didn't really find it an issue but if you are planning a rest day in Grandas for example then it might be better to check if the works are still going on before you book. Highly recommended. (I paid about €30 for a double room ensuite).

Castro - Albergue Juvenil
Right on the Camino. Gorgeous albergue in a lovely stone building. On site bar/cafe. Lovely clean and comfortable small dorms (2 bunks per room so 4 people to a room). Good shared bathroom facilities. Well run. Nice manager. Great dining area. Not set up for cooking though (microwave only). You can buy pre made (homemade) meals on site for reheating. I was disappointed by this to be honest as I had read great things about there being a communal meal. Maybe I had misunderstood or maybe someone was having a well deserved night off but everyone having to reheat/microwave their meals at different times because of the limited number of microwaves it kinda killed the Camino communal meal buzz for me personally. Still enjoyed the company of the group staying there and it is still a gorgeous hostel regardless. Recommended. (€11 bed only. Evening meal came to about €9)

Fonsegrada - O Cantabrico
On the Camino. Stayed in a private ensuite room here. Lovely room with a double bed. Very clean. Prettily decorated. Very modern kitchen area with free tea and coffee. Dorms looked nice. Very clean facilities. Lots of washing machines and dryers available. Nice manager and staff. Recommended.

Lugo - Lucus Bed
Stayed in double room in a 2-bed apartment. More like a holiday let. Other room has a bunk bed. Gorgeously decorated and very clean. Shared bathroom. Living room. Very high standard. Located just outside old roman wall of City and in apartment block on the Camino (entrance into building is via steps just off the Camino). Supermarket just around the corner. Great location. About 10 - 15 mins walk from bus station (Paid €30 per night. Stayed two nights. Booked via booking.com) Recommended!

Santiago de Compostela - Apartamentos Domus Stellae

Great studio style apartment with kitchen and washing machine. sofa, tv etc. Modern and very clean. The apartment I stayed in had a HUGE floor to ceiling and wall to wall window overlooking the street below (4 San Francisco) literally about a minutes walk (about 50m) from the Cathedral! Fantastic location. I suspect it could get noisy at weekends but I slept well.(€60 for one night via booking.com). Recommended!

Ok that's it for my accommodation. As you can see I stayed mainly in private rooms. Unfortunately I'm a very light sleeper and tend to sleep very badly in dorms (even with earplugs) so I limited the number of nights in dorms for that reason.

Hope it is of use to some of you. The standard of accommodation was great overall I have to say!

It's a very special Camino... Gorgeous, peaceful, unspoiled with a beautiful varied trail and very little road walking overall. I found the Asturians particularly lovely people. I'd highly recommend it as a Camino and I hope to revisit it in the next year or two all going well

Eilish aka Mayogurrrl

 

[HighlandsHiker]

Accommodation contd:....

Embalse de Salime - Hotel las Grandas
Nice hotel overlooking the dam and valley. Got a lovely twin room ensuite with bath (yay!) and great view of water/dam! Good food available on site. I booked on a booking site but I spotted that their own website was better value price wise. Unfortunately the phone was patchy in Berducedo so they couldn't hear me when I phoned to reserve. (€35 online but check the hotels own website for special deals)

Grandas de Salime - Hotel la Barra
Great hotel. Really lovely modern ensuite rooms of a great standard. Mine even had a small terrace! Very helpful and kind owner. There are building works onsite at the moment in an adjoining building. I didn't really find it an issue but if you are planning a rest day in Grandas for example then it might be better to check if the works are still going on before you book. Highly recommended. (I paid about €30 for a double room ensuite).

Castro - Albergue Juvenil
Right on the Camino. Gorgeous albergue in a lovely stone building. On site bar/cafe. Lovely clean and comfortable small dorms (2 bunks per room so 4 people to a room). Good shared bathroom facilities. Well run. Nice manager. Great dining area. Not set up for cooking though (microwave only). You can buy pre made (homemade) meals on site for reheating. I was disappointed by this to be honest as I had read great things about there being a communal meal. Maybe I had misunderstood or maybe someone was having a well deserved night off but everyone having to reheat/microwave their meals at different times because of the limited number of microwaves it kinda killed the Camino communal meal buzz for me personally. Still enjoyed the company of the group staying there and it is still a gorgeous hostel regardless. Recommended. (€11 bed only. Evening meal came to about €9)

Fonsegrada - O Cantabrico
On the Camino. Stayed in a private ensuite room here. Lovely room with a double bed. Very clean. Prettily decorated. Very modern kitchen area with free tea and coffee. Dorms looked nice. Very clean facilities. Lots of washing machines and dryers available. Nice manager and staff. Recommended.

Lugo - Lucus Bed
Stayed in double room in a 2-bed apartment. More like a holiday let. Other room has a bunk bed. Gorgeously decorated and very clean. Shared bathroom. Living room. Very high standard. Located just outside old roman wall of City and in apartment block on the Camino (entrance into building is via steps just off the Camino). Supermarket just around the corner. Great location. About 10 - 15 mins walk from bus station (Paid €30 per night. Stayed two nights. Booked via booking.com) Recommended!

Santiago de Compostela - Apartamentos Domus Stellae

Great studio style apartment with kitchen and washing machine. sofa, tv etc. Modern and very clean. The apartment I stayed in had a HUGE floor to ceiling and wall to wall window overlooking the street below (4 San Francisco) literally about a minutes walk (about 50m) from the Cathedral! Fantastic location. I suspect it could get noisy at weekends but I slept well.(€60 for one night via booking.com). Recommended!

Ok that's it for my accommodation. As you can see I stayed mainly in private rooms. Unfortunately I'm a very light sleeper and tend to sleep very badly in dorms (even with earplugs) so I limited the number of nights in dorms for that reason.

Hope it is of use to some of you. The standard of accommodation was great overall I have to say!

It's a very special Camino... Gorgeous, peaceful, unspoiled with a beautiful varied trail and very little road walking overall. I found the Asturians particularly lovely people. I'd highly recommend it as a Camino and I hope to revisit it in the next year or two all going well

Eilish aka Mayogurrrl

Bookmarked, Eilish, and thank you! Glad you're hoMe safe and sound!

 

[irishgurrrl]

Bookmarked, Eilish, and thank you! Glad you're hoMe safe and sound!

Thanks!

 

[alaskadiver]

I'm still on the Primitivo and tonight I'm at hotel La Barra. Very nice, I agree. Little balcony is convenient for hanging clothes to dry. Hair dryer! Strong wif.

I also stayed at Pension Marquez last night. Room was a bit small for two of us but the bathrooms were nice and roomy. Hair dryer! Wifi sucked. We reserved here the night before after seeing the large amount of pilgrims. But our Camino buddies stayed across the street at Camino Primitivo alverguand they said it was good. I think the hoard was turigrinos. We saw them here tonight and there's no way they are walking anything.

And casa Ricardo-another thumbs up from me as well. We stayed in the albergue. Clean and new with lockers. Heat doesn't get turned on until 8 or so for those of you who get cold. Stayed there night before last and went over Hospitales route. Pilgrims everywhere there! Came out of nowhere!

Oh yeah, we stayed at the albergue in Escamplero. Tight space with only two bathrooms/showers. No hot water for some reason. It was fine but nothing like Casa Ricardo.

We stayed in a double room at the Palacio de Meras hotel in Salas. Very nice. They also have an albergue which looked nice.

We're trying a little bit of everything to see what they are like.

 

[irishgurrrl]

I'm still on the Primitivo and tonight I'm at hotel La Barra. Very nice, I agree. Little balcony is convenient for hanging clothes to dry. Hair dryer! Strong wif.

I also stayed at Pension Marquez last night. Room was a bit small for two of us but the bathrooms were nice and roomy. Hair dryer! Wifi sucked. We reserved here the night before after seeing the large amount of pilgrims. But our Camino buddies stayed across the street at Camino Primitivo alverguand they said it was good. I think the hoard was turigrinos. We saw them here tonight and there's no way they are walking anything.

And casa Ricardo-another thumbs up from me as well. We stayed in the albergue. Clean and new with lockers. Heat doesn't get turned on until 8 or so for those of you who get cold. Stayed there night before last and went over Hospitales route. Pilgrims everywhere there! Came out of nowhere!

Oh yeah, we stayed at the albergue in Escamplero. Tight space with only two bathrooms/showers. No hot water for some reason. It was fine but nothing like Casa Ricardo.

We stayed in a double room at the Palacio de Meras hotel in Salas. Very nice. They also have an albergue which looked nice.

We're trying a little bit of everything to see what they are like.

Good stuff! Great you are enjoying it so far. I stayed in a private room in Casa Ricardo and it had its own thermostat so I could switch it on whenever I liked which was great. Yeah heard mixed reviews about the albergue in El Escamplero. Yep Casa Marques was grand especially the bathrooms. The hairdryer a looked so dodgy covered in tape and half melted haha. I was half worried I might get electrocuted but it didn't stop me using one of them haha.

I think the Palacio is in Tineo and not Salas though?

Isn't Hotel La Barra lovely! Loved my room and en suite! The owner was so kind to me too.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Palacio de Meras is in Tineo. In Salas therés the Castillo Valdes.

 

[alaskadiver]

Good stuff! Great you are enjoying it so far. I stayed in a private room in Casa Ricardo and it had its own thermostat so I could switch it on whenever I liked which was great. Yeah heard mixed reviews about the albergue in El Escamplero. Yep Casa Marques was grand especially the bathrooms. The hairdryer a looked so dodgy covered in tape and half melted haha. I was half worried I might get electrocuted but it didn't stop me using one of them haha.

I think the Palacio is in Tineo and not Salas though?

Isn't Hotel La Barra lovely! Loved my room and en suite! The owner was so kind to me too.

I've lost track. Tineo sounds right. Tonight in a Fonsagrada we stayed at pension Manolo. Very nice. Albergue Cantábrica was totally full and we're really enjoying the private rooms along the way.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Isn't it funny how we plan and plan, hoping to have it all sorted doen to the detail before heading out, and once we start walking, despite being out there 24-7, it all becomes a blur?

To fall asleep I rewalk my Caminoss, remembering what I did, what the path was like, where I turned right, etc. And because so often after getting back home it is still all still a blur, I keep my guidebook by my bed to fill in the blanks.

Have been back for a month and I think I am still only in Monesterios.

 

[HighlandsHiker]

Isn't it funny how we plan and plan, hoping to have it all sorted doen to the detail before heading out, and once we start walking, despite being out there 24-7, it all becomes a blur?

To fall asleep I rewalk my Caminoss, remembering what I did, what the path was like, where I turned right, etc. And because so often after getting back home it is still all still a blur, I keep my guidebook by my bed to fill in the blanks.

Have been back for a month and I think I am still only in Monesterios.

I love that, Anemone. It probably puts you right back into that soothing rhythm of walking in the natural world. What a great way to fall asleep. You probably walk Caminos in your dreams.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I love that, Anemone. It probably puts you right back into that soothing rhythm of walking in the natural world. What a great way to fall asleep. You probably walk Caminos in your dreams.

I wish! Lately I have been dreaming of Obama (once he was Trump's bodygard) and if not I get my recurring dream where I cannot manage to dial a phone number right. Any dream interpreters out there are welcome to contact me. But they are lovely thoughts to go to sleep with.

 

[HighlandsHiker]

I wish! Lately I have been dreaming of Obama (once he was Trump's bodygard) and if not I get my recurring dream where I cannot manage to dial a phone number right. Any dream interpreters out there are welcome to contact me. But they are lovely thoughts to go to sleep with.

That is SO funny! You'll likely get some interesting responses, Anemone!

 

[alaskadiver]

Isn't it funny how we plan and plan, hoping to have it all sorted doen to the detail before heading out, and once we start walking, despite being out there 24-7, it all becomes a blur?

To fall asleep I rewalk my Caminoss, remembering what I did, what the path was like, where I turned right, etc. And because so often after getting back home it is still all still a blur, I keep my guidebook by my bed to fill in the blanks.

Have been back for a month and I think I am still only in Monesterios.

I have it written down so that I can update my blog . I couldn't keep up with the daily blogging because of the lack of Internet and just feeling tired. But yeah, Tineo and Salas especially are mixed up in my head. I just vividly recall all that deep mud.

My plantar fasciitis is making me take 2 rest days. Horrible pain from wearing low cut hiking shoes on all that pavement. ugh!

 

[alaskadiver]

That sounds lovely! Did you reserve ahead at Casa Ricardos, Irish Gurrrl?? I read somewhere last night that the albergue in Borres has triple-high bunks, which sounds kind of awful, so getting a room in Campiello sounds like a good idea . If you think of it, could you post how you went about getting the taxi transacted? Hope you have a very good rest day there in Campiello. It sounds like the views over the Hospitales route are spectacular.

Escamplero has some double bunks but most triple, too. Not that big of a deal as long as you are physically able to climb the very sturdy metal ladder.

 

[Shauna]

Love your blog alaskadiver, will there be more soon?

 

[alaskadiver]

Yes

Love your blog alaskadiver, will there be more soon?

yes! The internet has been too weak to post anything but we arrive in Santiago tomorrow and then we're hanging around Spain for another week. I will get to typing up the rest of the days by Sunday. Thank you for asking.