LIVE from the Camino The Adventures of Dani7 on the Camino Francés

[Dani7]

End of day 12 - very short notice 10k, 15.7 total

Last night I could have used my sleeping bag. It wa cold in the room. Everyone had theirs.

Najera is a beautiful little city and arriving early gave me the time to plan for the next week.

Big day tomorrow, walking straight through to Granon, a total of 28 kms and it’s supposed to be 29 by early afternoon. So I’m going to get up very early and leave my 6 am the latest. Bought stuff for breakfast and lunch at the supermercado. Soaked my feet in the river and my feet thanked me. Two small blisters on 2nd toe of each foot. Bought more foot supplies as I was running low.

I had the quiet day I needed. Shaved my legs and It was definitely time. I could almost backcomb the hair.k on them. Another few days and it would have been French braids

After Granon it’s Tosanto then Atapuerca.

Early on into my walk this morning a wave of gratitude went through my heart and I started to weep. All these years of wanting and waiting. Felt very blessed this morning. So going to bed with this song. It’s one of my favorites because it’s timeless, like this Camino will be for me.

View attachment IMG_6984.MOV

 

[J Willhaus]

Tosantos is another special place. Take care of your feet. If Tosantos if full when you arrive, consider walking on to Villambistia. This is another homey albergue (San Rogue). They are open in the winter and we usually sent our Granon winter pilgrims on to there except on Wednesdays when they are always closed...

Albergue de peregrinos San Roque | Albergue de Peregrinos en Villambistia | Gronze.com

Información del albergue de peregrinos Albergue de peregrinos San Roque, en Villambistia: Precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

 

[alexwalker]

The municipal albergue San Juan in Granon, in the medieval bell tower of the church (on your left in the town square), is known to never turn a pilgrim away. You will have to sleep on mats; no beds, but it is a very special place and evening. Enjoy.

Nice garden as well. They have various instruments in the lounge, encouraging playing and singing after dinner, as well as a great communal dinner, where pilgrims are encouraged to participate in the preparation. It is a donativo albergue, but be generous with your donation, please, if you're able; it is worth it..

All the best to your walk: Buen Camino!

 

[David Tallan]

Day 12 - short 11kms walk to Najera to regroup

Slept fitfully. Was cold in the room. The one time I would have appreciated my sleeping bag so I slept with my puff jacket. But had no socks or long pants on so .

I’m glad I’ll have the time today to plan ahead. Pilgrims are all talking about how busy it is. It’s more than the long weekend.

I thought all this time I was using my esim but no…yikes I was using my Canadian provider and they charge $15 a day . So I managed to spend 90 min with them on a chat to credit me that amount and they did. Yay for my tenacity and their willingness to credit me.

So no physical sim in my phone now. I had to take it out. That was the deal. Hopefully I’ll figure out what’s wrong with my esim install. The lady in the chat box this morning from that provider asked me if I had the app installed on my phone … I answered. That’s how I’m talking to you…on your app so I’m a little discombobulated this morning. So…need a good shake it off song.

Who is your provider? Let us know if you find out what the issue was. I'm heading over next month, also from Ontario, and was planning to use a Spanish e-sim. I don't want the same thing to happen to me!

 

[Bergeron]

shake that shit off!

 

[Bergeron]

End of day 12 - very short notice 10k, 15.7 total

Last night I could have used my sleeping bag. It wa cold in the room. Everyone had theirs.

Najera is a beautiful little city and arriving early gave me the time to plan for the next week.

Big day tomorrow, walking straight through to Granon, a total of 28 kms and it’s supposed to be 29 by early afternoon. So I’m going to get up very early and leave my 6 am the latest. Bought stuff for breakfast and lunch at the supermercado. Soaked my feet in the river and my feet thanked me. Two small blisters on 2nd toe of each foot. Bought more foot supplies as I was running low.

I had the quiet day I needed. Shaved my legs and It was definitely time. I could almost backcomb the hair.k on them. Another few days and it would have been French braids

After Granon it’s Tosanto then Atapuerca.

Early on into my walk this morning a wave of gratitude went through my heart and I started to weep. All these years of wanting and waiting. Felt very blessed this morning. So going to bed with this song. It’s one of my favorites because it’s timeless, like this Camino will be for me.

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[Bergeron]

When I see X in the sky I always know that I am exactly where I need to BE

 

[Dani7]

Day 13. - Najera to Granon approx 28 kms

Slept ok. Making my sandwich and off I go. Some nervous energy this morning. With the best and distance. I’ll be out by 6:05 am. So to start this day I need a pick me up, shake your body, groove your thing song. Dance with me and see you on the other side.

 

[Pelt]

Perfect song! I admire you so much, you go girl. I feel like I’m walking with you.

 

[Dani7]

End of day, 13 - 27.7 kms, and 28.7 total

What. A. Day!!! Started out smooth and easy going. Little cafe con leche (hereafter called Señor CCL). Then fresh orange juice at Ciruena and my snacks. Then onto Santo Domingo de Calzada to eat my sandwich and foot care. Turns out my new insoles I bought in Najera are super comfortable for my forefoot but they are thicker and so created a hot spot and later this morning a 25 cent piece sized blister on the side of my left heal.

The crazy adventure started after that. I had not filled up on water at lunch and thought I would see a water fountain coming out of town. Wrong. So I had about 100ml of water left so I rationed like I was in the desert. Sips only. I’m about 1.5 kms in what I think is the green route to Granon when I see a big tractor come towards me and he tells me I’m going the wrong way. I show him the map of the green route and he swirls his hand to show all the land around him and says it’s his. He says I have to go back as I’m not going to Granon. By this time I’ve been walking close to 7 hrs and I’m parched and pooched. Since he was going the direction I had come from I asked him if I could get a ride. His face took pity on me and he told me to hop on which I did with great difficulty as I could not lift my leg high enough for that first step lol. And that’s when I had my very own Dustin Hoffman “Tootsie” moment. Hat brim flapping in the wind and me hanging on for dear life.

He dropped me off and the green route appeared about a km later. This young farmer that I did not even get his name was explaining to me how all those fields not planted was due to the fact that there is just not enough water for all his fields.

I told him I would say a prayer at mass tonight for him. And then parched as I was, two pilgrims sitting in the shade having big slices of some melon gave me a slice which was so kind.

The atmosphere here, the shared meal and song. Our common goal. The mass. The candle being passed around and us saying what is in our hearts. Very very touching.

It was a perfect day in all its imperfections. The sunrise was spectacular and the warmth in the dining room could have heated up the whole church.

I leave you with the perfect song for today. One I’ve been holding on to for the right moment. It certainly is that moment now.

 

[J Willhaus]

So glad you made it to Granon. Remember, the stamp is on your heart instead of your credential...

 

[nycwalking]

End of day, 13 - 27.7 kms, and 28.7 total

What. A. Day!!! Started out smooth and easy going. Little cafe con leche (hereafter called Señor CCL). Then fresh orange juice at Ciruena and my snacks. Then onto Santo Domingo de Calzada to eat my sandwich and foot care. Turns out my new insoles I bought in Najera are super comfortable for my forefoot but they are thicker and so created a hot spot and later this morning a 25 cent piece sized blister on the side of my left heal.

The crazy adventure started after that. I had not filled up on water at lunch and thought I would see a water fountain coming out of town. Wrong. So I had about 100ml of water left so I rationed like I was in the desert. Sips only. I’m about 1.5 kms in what I think is the green route to Granon when I see a big tractor come towards me and he tells me I’m going the wrong way. I show him the map of the green route and he swirls his hand to show all the land around him and says it’s his. He says I have to go back as I’m not going to Granon. By this time I’ve been walking close to 7 hrs and I’m parched and pooched. Since he was going the direction I had come from I asked him if I could get a ride. His face took pity on me and he told me to hop on which I did with great difficulty as I could not lift my leg high enough for that first step lol. And that’s when I had my very own Dustin Hoffman “Tootsie” moment. Hat brim flapping in the wind and me hanging on for dear life.

He dropped me off and the green route appeared about a km later. This young farmer that I did not even get his name was explaining to me how all those fields not planted was due to the fact that there is just not enough water for all his fields.

I told him I would say a prayer at mass tonight for him. And then parched as I was, two pilgrims sitting in the shade having big slices of some melon gave me a slice which was so kind.

The atmosphere here, the shared meal and song. Our common goal. The mass. The candle being passed around and us saying what is in our hearts. Very very touching.

It was a perfect day in all its imperfections. The sunrise was spectacular and the warmth in the dining room could have heated up the whole church.

I leave you with the perfect song for today. One I’ve been holding on to for the right moment. It certainly is that moment now.

I am absolutely enjoying my vicarious pilgrimage with you.

Your posts are heartfelt and sincere.

Keep ‘‘em coming.

Buen camino.

 

[alexwalker]

I told you it would be a great place/evening! Very happy to see pictures from one of my favorite albergues. Hope the sleeping mat was good enough for you...

 

[Phil W]

I love Granon. As @J Willhaus said, the stamp is in your heart!

 

[alexwalker]

I should also add: You are now leaving behind the frenzy of the SJPDP-Pamplona panic. Just relax- The Camino walkers will now be stretched out, and peace will return (I hope).

 

[goldie from aus]

End of day, 13 - 27.7 kms, and 28.7 total

What. A. Day!!! Started out smooth and easy going. Little cafe con leche (hereafter called Señor CCL). Then fresh orange juice at Ciruena and my snacks. Then onto Santo Domingo de Calzada to eat my sandwich and foot care. Turns out my new insoles I bought in Najera are super comfortable for my forefoot but they are thicker and so created a hot spot and later this morning a 25 cent piece sized blister on the side of my left heal.

The crazy adventure started after that. I had not filled up on water at lunch and thought I would see a water fountain coming out of town. Wrong. So I had about 100ml of water left so I rationed like I was in the desert. Sips only. I’m about 1.5 kms in what I think is the green route to Granon when I see a big tractor come towards me and he tells me I’m going the wrong way. I show him the map of the green route and he swirls his hand to show all the land around him and says it’s his. He says I have to go back as I’m not going to Granon. By this time I’ve been walking close to 7 hrs and I’m parched and pooched. Since he was going the direction I had come from I asked him if I could get a ride. His face took pity on me and he told me to hop on which I did with great difficulty as I could not lift my leg high enough for that first step lol. And that’s when I had my very own Dustin Hoffman “Tootsie” moment. Hat brim flapping in the wind and me hanging on for dear life.

He dropped me off and the green route appeared about a km later. This young farmer that I did not even get his name was explaining to me how all those fields not planted was due to the fact that there is just not enough water for all his fields.

I told him I would say a prayer at mass tonight for him. And then parched as I was, two pilgrims sitting in the shade having big slices of some melon gave me a slice which was so kind.

The atmosphere here, the shared meal and song. Our common goal. The mass. The candle being passed around and us saying what is in our hearts. Very very touching.

It was a perfect day in all its imperfections. The sunrise was spectacular and the warmth in the dining room could have heated up the whole church.

I leave you with the perfect song for today. One I’ve been holding on to for the right moment. It certainly is that moment now.

That sky is glorious. Happy walking.

 

[Bergeron]

I am imagining

 

[Bergeron]

I am imagining

Please explain Señor CCL...curious mind asking

 

[Dani7]

Day 14 - Granon to Tosantos approx 21 kms

What an emotional and spiritual experience yesterday was at the San Juan Bautista albergue. I highly recommend to all who may do a Camino in the future. Thank you so much for recommending it (I did not have time this morning to check the exact names but you know who you are ).

My heart is calm yet a bit jumbled. My share yesterday at the gathering after the meal with the candle surprised me. I poured my heart out. I’m still emotional about it and weeping as I write this. The hospitaleros here right now are such warm hearted and kind people. They all are in fact.

So I start my walking today in reflection and to reground my mind, body and spirit and move forward. In that spirit I leave you with this song this morning see you on the other side.

 

[Kirkie]

Please explain Señor CCL...curious mind asking

Seems to be an abbreviation for cafe con leche...

 

[Dani7]

Who is your provider? Let us know if you find out what the issue was. I'm heading over next month, also from Ontario, and was planning to use a Spanish e-sim. I don't want the same thing to happen to me!

Sorry for the late response. I chose BNESIM. They ended up helping me with the install and I asked that since I had paid for it on April 19 th and we were now may 2nd, could the 30 day plan start as of may 2nd and they agreed. So all is well. Works perfectly. Data only.

I think the problem was me.

 

[Dani7]

End of day 14 - Total kms 23.6

Hard day today. Inside and out. Before leaving, a new hospitalero, who was having his first day on the job yesterday, Armando, gave me the most heartfelt and sincere hug. I was feeling vulnerable and so I was very sad with tears running down my face. When we were doing the candle ceremony after supper last night I was one of the last ones to get the candle so I had lots of time to think about what I wanted to say. Not too much, short and sweet. The minute I held the candle in front of me, my heart burst.

Then went off course twice today. Would you believe it took me 50 minutes to get out of the little town of Granon . It was a coulda, shoulda, woulda morning. I could have taken more time to get my bearings coming out of the albergue to see the arrows. I should have noticed sooner that the sun was to my left inside of behind me like it should have been. And had I done that, I would not have wasted so much time figuring out how to get back on the Camino. The second wrong turn I was with my little French friend leaving Vilamayor del Río. We saw an arrow pointing left and we did not see all the other arrows pointing straight ahead because we were chatting. That was another 40 min to correct. I believe the little town we saw in the distance may have painted that arrow. Who knows. Our mistake. From there I needed to burn off my angst and so I started powerwalking, fast and strong, to get my cardio up. It worked. By the time I got to Belorado that pent up steam evaporated and I got to enjoy my first “patatas bravas”. WoW. I’ve been missing out all this time

I’m very good at compartmentalizing. For work when needed and personally when called for. My “sorrow” box that I had left on its shelf before I left my home ended up being opened last night. Experience has taught me that letting go of the past is often needed or wise. But that does not mean you forget. Like the Camino, where I learned that looking back is just as important as looking forward, so is life. I feel better tonight. That sorrow comes from circumstance, personal choices and much by things out of my control. As I move forward on this journey I have no doubt that I will be better at putting that box back on the shelf quicker. All my experiences live within me. It’s not so much letting go for me. it’s about balance. I don’t think you can make past pains go away but you can certainly learn how to live with them better and see your life’s experiences with a wider and wiser lens.

Armando yesterday said the Camino may not give you what you want. But it will give you what you need. And so this song is so spot on. Hope you all slept well. I may have Arthur talking real loud again tonight so I’ll just have to compartmentalize that and put him in a box .

 

[alexwalker]

Don't look back unless you want to go there...

 

[J Willhaus]

Hope your evening at Tosantos is equally as awesome tonight although Granon is very hard to top...

 

[goldie from aus]

End of day 14 - Total kms 23.6
Hope you all slept well. I may have Arthur talking real loud again tonight so I’ll just have to compartmentalize that and put him in a box .

Maybe be rub a pit of cream on Arthur, and as my mum would have said, tell him to weisht. You gotta love potatoes.

 

[nycwalking]

Don't look back unless you want to go there...

Succinctly put.

TY!

 

[Dani7]

Succinctly put.

TY!

For me sometimes I need to go there in order to move forward . I am my past, my present and my future.

 

[Dani7]

Day 15 - Tosantos to Atapuerca approx 25.5 lms

Surprisingly I slept well. Note to self: two thinner mats are better than one thicker one.

I thought my distance was shorter today but it is what it is.

What a beautiful and spiritual evening last night. It was not the same as Granon but for me, just as special. There is a catholic priest who is doing the Camino (since Le Puy en Velay) and he carries with him all the necessary things to say mass.

We were only 10 pilgrims last night so we all helped in the kitchen to make a traditional dish called “patatas de la Rioja”. It was so so good.

After we cleaned up we went back to the little chapel and had a heartwarming ceremony where we each read (in our own language) something a past pilgrim had written before leaving here. Very touching. When you write something the hospitalero puts it with the others 20 days after you leave. Once a year they have a ceremony with all the villagers, who prepare a communal meal for everyone, but before they have prayer and a burning ceremony of these letters

I am so happy and full today. I highly recommend staying here.

So I leave you with this. A reflection of where my heart is this morning. See you on the other side

 

[Bergeron]

Hello my friend...so much expressed in your last updates and songs. What a gift

 

[J Willhaus]

Glad your Camino has taken you to these special places.

 

[J Willhaus]

Last year we met a pair of younger priests at Grañón who were walking the Camino, one from the US and one from Italy. Phil gifted them a clean white handkerchief for the "Mass kit" they were compiling. One of the priests told us to have a parish on the Camino was an honor as you had your parishioners who lived nearby and those who were traveling through to pray for.

 

[Dani7]

End of day 15 - 24.7 kms. Total 27 kms

Had a hard day mentally and physically. That one portion leading to where the road widens and it seems to go on forever. The 1,250m climb was easier to bear than that long stretch of the same wide, hard packed road. When I saw San Juan de Ortega, it was the first time I yelled out “woohoo” with my sticks up.

I continue to be amazed at the size and opulence of some of the churches in these small small villages like this one.

A bit of drama today. I had not written down the name of the hostal I booked here and could not figure out which albergue based on the whatsapp info…I checked ALL the numbers to match that one and none matched. Why??? Because the only albergue I did not click on was the one that allowed pets. Normally I would never book that, I must have missed that because I’m very allergic to cats and dogs. When I wrote the albergue to ask which one it is, took them 3 hrs to respond back despite the app telling me they had read my question right away in Spanish “Can you confirm the name of your albergue. I’ve arrived and cannot walk another step.”

Three hours later he tells me the name after me telling him “if you don’t respond back I’ll have to stay at another albergue” (he read that right away as well and did not respond). Then he says “but I told other pilgrims I had no bed because I kept your bed.” So…Because I feel in some ways that I’m representing our community of pilgrims and because I told him I was Canadian (so in a way an ambassador of my country) I walked over there and gave him $10 euros (price was $14). It is a 16 bed albergue and in the end I’m glad I’m not staying there. It was a little creepy. End of drama.

On a “the Camino provides” aspect, serendipity happened this afternoon. Walked over to the church to see if it was open (it was not) and a couple were sitting in front on the step, so we started chatting. Originally from South Africa and now living in Australia, we got to talking about our plans for tomorrow and they are also going to Santo Domingo de Silos. They had reserved a taxi to get there as the bus does not go there on Saturday or Sunday. So we are going to share the fare. How cool is that?

I’m someone who does not like to rock the boat unless I can answer affirmatively “will this matter to me in a few years?” If so I’ll do whatever it takes but today with the albergue owner I did not want to rock it. So…let’s finish the day with a great song with a great beat.

 

[J Willhaus]

Great plan for a side trip!

 

[MichaelMySon]

Your doing so well .your spirit and the guidance you put over is absolutely buen camino keep going really look forward to you daily journal .

 

[alexwalker]

As you get to Atapuerca (if you stay there) I advice you to visit the museum/exibithion of the ancient people eho lived there. It is the oldest finds of humans in Europe, stretching back 40-50.000 years. Very interesting, and only a 10 mins walk from Atapuerca centre (which is very small).

After Atapuerca, you will walk towards Burgos. Make sure to take left and upwards to the hill at the end of the village. Otherwise you will hava a long and hard day on asphalt around the airport. Be careful here.

After crossing the hill, make sure you walk the river route: It can be tricky to find, but it is very important: The alternative is to walk 8 kms in suburban/industrial areas: The worst of the worst on the whole Camino.

Study carefully these instructions:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/burgos-river-route.761/download

 

[MARSKA]

Day 9 - Estella to Larcos?? Or before or beyond approx 21.5 kms +

Not a good night. Sleep elusive. Still not used to albergue dorm life. I’ll get there. My goal today is to stay focused on being calm inside and let the waves go by me. To be kind and patient with myself. I’m usually pretty good at that when I put my mind to it but when I am sleep deprived the dialogue can change pretty quick.

Not as hot today. 22C max. let’s see what today brings .

So dance with me. Nothing like a little dance to perk you right up. Time to have a good time.

PS I almost put sunblock down there instead of zinc. That was so so close Phew!!!

PS I almost put sunblock down there instead of zinc. That was so so close Phew!!!


Ha ha ha haha that reminds me of my daughter- she once told me she put hemorrhoid cream on her toothbrush!

 

[Bob Howard]

As you get to Atapuerca (if you stay there) I advice you to visit the museum/exibithion of the ancient people eho lived there. It is the oldest finds of humans in Europe, stratiching back 40-50.000 years. Very interesting, and only a 10 mins walk from Atapuerca centre (which is small).

And the Evolution Museum in Burgos.

 

[DOB]

Love your pics and your songs are so right on! Always look forward to your posts! Luv you ma soeur!

 

[alexwalker]

And the Evolution Museum in Burgos.

And the exhibition of the Holy Grail in the San Isidoro church in Leon.

Crowds flock to Spanish church after holy grail claim

New book claims precious goblet in León's San Isidro basilica is mythical chalice from which Christ sipped at last supper

www.theguardian.com

 

[VNwalking]

How cool is that?

Oh, man. Very.
(By the way...the 2½ day walk from there back to Burgos is very nice.)

 

[nycwalking]

End of day 15 - 24.7 kms. Total 27 kms

Had a hard day mentally and physically. That one portion leading to where the road widens and it seems to go on forever. The 1,250m climb was easier to bear than that long stretch of the same wide, hard packed road. When I saw San Juan de Ortega, it was the first time I yelled out “woohoo” with my sticks up.

I continue to be amazed at the size and opulence of some of the churches in these small small villages like this one.

A bit of drama today. I had not written down the name of the hostal I booked here and could not figure out which albergue based on the whatsapp info…I checked ALL the numbers to match that one and none matched. Why??? Because the only albergue I did not click on was the one that allowed pets. Normally I would never book that, I must have missed that because I’m very allergic to cats and dogs. When I wrote the albergue to ask which one it is, took them 3 hrs to respond back despite the app telling me they had read my question right away in Spanish “Can you confirm the name of your albergue. I’ve arrived and cannot walk another step.”

Three hours later he tells me the name after me telling him “if you don’t respond back I’ll have to stay at another albergue” (he read that right away as well and did not respond). Then he says “but I told other pilgrims I had no bed because I kept your bed.” So…Because I feel in some ways that I’m representing our community of pilgrims and because I told him I was Canadian (so in a way an ambassador of my country) I walked over there and gave him $10 euros (price was $14). It is a 16 bed albergue and in the end I’m glad I’m not staying there. It was a little creepy. End of drama.

On a “the Camino provides” aspect, serendipity happened this afternoon. Walked over to the church to see if it was open (it was not) and a couple were sitting in front on the step, so we started chatting. Originally from South Africa and now living in Australia, we got to talking about our plans for tomorrow and they are also going to Santo Domingo de Silos. They had reserved a taxi to get there as the bus does not go there on Saturday or Sunday. So we are going to share the fare. How cool is that?

I’m someone who does not like to rock the boat unless I can answer affirmatively “will this matter to me in a few years?” If so I’ll do whatever it takes but today with the albergue owner I did not want to rock it. So…let’s finish the day with a great song with a great beat.

The song and the walk bring to mind years of memories.

Write the book upon return.

Buen camino.

 

[Dani7]

Day 16 - Atapuerca to Castañares approx 12 km

Slept ok. Went to dinner at Como Sapiens and it was wonderful. Was sitting alone when two couples came in and invited me to sit with them. One of them was the couple that im sharing a cab with. For $20 euros it was nice to eat a delicious meal so pleasing to the eye.

Unfortunately the taxi they ordered is picking them up at Hotel Versus in Castañares so I’ll miss out on the river walk into Burgos and the last 7 kms or so.

This is one of those times I can’t have it all. The taxi may go as high as $120 euros so finding someone to share with haphazardly like I did is something I am happy about.

So I’m going to feel great grateful today for this and the incredible experience I’m about to have. Dance with me

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Oh, man. Very.
(By the way...the 2½ day walk from there back to Burgos is very nice.)

Is the route documented somewhere and/or marked?

 

[Dani7]

Day 16 - Atapuerca to Santo Domingo de silos total kms (12.1 + 3.6)

What a morning! Out of Atapuerca the walk was a bit challenging with really interesting rock formations. Got to Castañares at 11:00 and was waiting for the couple I was doing a ride share with to Santo Domingo de Silos. I see a restaurant right next door to our meeting place and decide to get a coffee and as I’m walking to the entrance I miss my step and do an amazing litteral face plant. Thought I had broken my cheek bone. Same side as when I walked into that TV . Did I fail to mention I tend to be accident prone I fell real hard on my left knee, outstretched left hand and it ended up that the left side of my face took the brunt of the force.

Luckily I did not break skin. The first thing I was afraid of was for my glasses as they literally flew off my face! One peregrino and a patron rushed over to me and wanted to get me up and I said “give me a moment”. I am so so lucky. It was a quite serious fall. Sheesh!!!

More to be grateful for today close one. Tonight the only thing sore is the base of my little finger.

Taxi was a very new van, quite comfortable and it took about an hour. $142 euros split between us. Checked into hotel and took the most amazing shower with the most awesome shower head. Grateful!

The vespers at 7 pm was quite moving. 13 Benedictine monks in black robes. The priest and two monks with white robes over their black ones accompanied him. But what touched me the most was the very old monks. One had a walker and terribly hunched over. The other also with serious mobility issues, but both made their way to their seats before the rest came in. The two older ones, their purpose and determination made me shed a tear. I was quite moved by the whole ceremony.

Life has a way of teaching us all we need to know if our hearts are open and our minds uncluttered. Today I learned that even though it seems that life can be troubled and complicated, we only need to take a moment to stop all the busyness, and open our eyes and hearts. I don’t have all the answers, but I am willing to ask the tough questions.

So many pictures today. I’ll post more tomorrow morning.

This song speaks to me tonight. I’m humbled by what I saw, heard and felt today.

 

[VNwalking]

OH! Glad you're more or less ok, Dani!
And I hope you can make matins in the morning. SDdS is a really special place - wonderful you got there.

Is the route documented somewhere and/or marked?

Yes. Two options. The ok one is straight ip the Lana. The one is to Covarrubias on the Lana (or even better on the GR82) then backwards on the San Olav. I walked the latter in 2016 and it was gloroius.

 

[donalomahony]

Day 16 - Atapuerca to Santo Domingo de silos total kms (12.1 + 3.6)

What a morning! Out of Atapuerca the walk was a bit challenging with really interesting rock formations. Got to Castañares at 11:00 and was waiting for the couple I was doing a ride share with to Santo Domingo de Silos. I see a restaurant right next door to our meeting place and decide to get a coffee and as I’m walking to the entrance I miss my step and do an amazing litteral face plant. Thought I had broken my cheek bone. Same side as when I walked into that TV . Did I fail to mention I tend to be accident prone I fell real hard on my left knee, outstretched left hand and it ended up that the left side of my face took the brunt of the force.

Luckily I did not break skin. The first thing I was afraid of was for my glasses as they literally flew off my face! One peregrino and a patron rushed over to me and wanted to get me up and I said “give me a moment”. I am so so lucky. It was a quite serious fall. Sheesh!!!

More to be grateful for today close one. Tonight the only thing sore is the base of my little finger.

Taxi was a very new van, quite comfortable and it took about an hour. $142 euros split between us. Checked into hotel and took the most amazing shower with the most awesome shower head. Grateful!

The vespers at 7 pm was quite moving. 13 Benedictine monks in black robes. The priest and two monks with white robes over their black ones accompanied him. But what touched me the most was the very old monks. One had a walker and terribly hunched over. The other also with serious mobility issues, but both made their way to their seats before the rest came in. The two older ones, their purpose and determination made me shed a tear. I was quite moved by the whole ceremony.

Life has a way of teaching us all we need to know if our hearts are open and our minds uncluttered. Today I learned that even though it seems that life can be troubled and complicated, we only need to take a moment to stop all the busyness, and open our eyes and hearts. I don’t have all the answers, but I am willing to ask the tough questions.

So many pictures today. I’ll post more tomorrow morning.

This song speaks to me tonight. I’m humbled by what I saw, heard and felt today.

"It was a perfect day in all its imperfections"

 

[goldie from aus]

Truly beautiful song. Hope you pull up ok tomorrow morning. Ouch - take care.

 

[J Willhaus]

FYI, @Dani7 , if you are heading into Burgos tomorrow, the "pilgrim" Mass is at 730 pm. It isn't as personal or special as some of the others you have attended, but thought you'd want to know.

 

[MichaelMySon]

So hope your all OK after your fall Dani . Keep going your a Love the music buen camino

 

[Kirkie]

Day 16 - Atapuerca to Santo Domingo de silos total kms (12.1 + 3.6)

What a morning! Out of Atapuerca the walk was a bit challenging with really interesting rock formations. Got to Castañares at 11:00 and was waiting for the couple I was doing a ride share with to Santo Domingo de Silos. I see a restaurant right next door to our meeting place and decide to get a coffee and as I’m walking to the entrance I miss my step and do an amazing litteral face plant. Thought I had broken my cheek bone. Same side as when I walked into that TV . Did I fail to mention I tend to be accident prone I fell real hard on my left knee, outstretched left hand and it ended up that the left side of my face took the brunt of the force.

Luckily I did not break skin. The first thing I was afraid of was for my glasses as they literally flew off my face! One peregrino and a patron rushed over to me and wanted to get me up and I said “give me a moment”. I am so so lucky. It was a quite serious fall. Sheesh!!!

More to be grateful for today close one. Tonight the only thing sore is the base of my little finger.

Taxi was a very new van, quite comfortable and it took about an hour. $142 euros split between us. Checked into hotel and took the most amazing shower with the most awesome shower head. Grateful!

The vespers at 7 pm was quite moving. 13 Benedictine monks in black robes. The priest and two monks with white robes over their black ones accompanied him. But what touched me the most was the very old monks. One had a walker and terribly hunched over. The other also with serious mobility issues, but both made their way to their seats before the rest came in. The two older ones, their purpose and determination made me shed a tear. I was quite moved by the whole ceremony.

Life has a way of teaching us all we need to know if our hearts are open and our minds uncluttered. Today I learned that even though it seems that life can be troubled and complicated, we only need to take a moment to stop all the busyness, and open our eyes and hearts. I don’t have all the answers, but I am willing to ask the tough questions.

So many pictures today. I’ll post more tomorrow morning.

This song speaks to me tonight. I’m humbled by what I saw, heard and felt today.

I learned yesterday that pineapple and papaya could help you right now.

 

[Dani7]

Day 17 - Santa Domingo de Silos to Burgos

Good morning. Went back to the church this morning and once again listened to the same 16 Benedictine monks demonstrate their strong faith. They sing in the church six times a day…every single day of the week for various homilies. This level of pure devotion I have never witnessed before.

Mixed feelings today. Another chapter ends and another begins. Said goodbye to the lovely and oh so kind Australian couple. Last night they invited me to join them for supper but I declined and rested in my room. At the restaurant they met a lovely German man, who I saw yesterday at the cloister. He had some very high tech camera gear. He was driving back to Burgos today and was kind enough to bring us with him.

As I sit here in Burgos near the Arco de Santa Maria on a bench facing the Rio Arlazon, I’m once again faced with some sadness. Since I am staying two days in Burgos, most of the people I’ve been regularly seeing since Pamplona will now be ahead of me and I will be meeting a new group of people. That in itself is not a bad thing but I am surprised at how quickly bonds are made on this Camino. The warmth and genuine kindness of so many people you meet along the way makes you build links that are strong despite the short time forging them.

I’m very happy I went to Santo Domingo de Silos. I only hope I’m not too lonely here in Burgos. The Camino Frances is very busy and I don’t see myself doing this Camino again because of that. I’m not up to a late fall or earlier spring departure. Therefore I will savour every minute of it and see all that I can and hope to see.

This morning this song is the one for me. The sun is shining, the birds are singing. The city is waking up and preparing for a lovely Sunday. And so will I.

 

[Kirkie]

So glad to think of you having time to breathe and absorb the experience in Silos. Something I missed. Today is today. I will be going to chop a few carrots and an onion in a minute, and nice to think of you breathing in the Camino Pilgrimage experience!

 

[CarmenZen]

Danielle, I hope you are okay after your mishap. I read your posts every day and am still in awe of the physical demands of this journey and the mental and spiritual growth it has brought you. You will, without a doubt, come back transformed! You have a capacity, through your writing, to draw us in and make us "feel" what is in your heart. Most of all, your ability to laugh at the most trying of times makes you that much more beautiful. Big hugs mon amie!

 

[J Willhaus]

Day 17 - Santa Domingo de Silos to Burgos

Good morning. Went back to the church this morning and once again listened to the same 16 Benedictine monks demonstrate their strong faith. They sing in the church six times a day…every single day of the week for various homilies. This level of pure devotion I have never witnessed before.

Mixed feelings today. Another chapter ends and another begins. Said goodbye to the lovely and oh so kind Australian couple. Last night they invited me to join them for supper but I declined and rested in my room. At the restaurant they met a lovely German man, who I saw yesterday at the cloister. He had some very high tech camera gear. He was driving back to Burgos today and was kind enough to bring us with him.

As I sit here in Burgos near the Arco de Santa Maria on a bench facing the Rio Arlazon, I’m once again faced with some sadness. Since I am staying two days in Burgos, most of the people I’ve been regularly seeing since Pamplona will now be ahead of me and I will be meeting a new group of people. That in itself is not a bad thing but I am surprised at how quickly bonds are made on this Camino. The warmth and genuine kindness of so many people you meet along the way makes you build links that are strong despite the short time forging them.

I’m very happy I went to Santo Domingo de Silos. I only hope I’m not too lonely here in Burgos. The Camino Frances is very busy and I don’t see myself doing this Camino again because of that. I’m not up to a late fall or earlier spring departure. Therefore I will savour every minute of it and see all that I can and hope to see.

This morning this song is the one for me. The sun is shining, the birds are singing. The city is waking up and preparing for a lovely Sunday. And so will I.

We often met people again on the Way and it was always a happy surprise. You are walking your own Camino and will have experiences to savor despite the separation from new and old friends.

After Burgos, there's sometimes a bottle neck at Hornillos. You could consider a short day and stop in Tarjedos or Rabe de los Calzados or press on to the little albergue at San Bol with the healing spring waters. Says they accept reservations now on their website. Times have changed I guess.

Past Hontanas is the albergue at the ruins of a church and monastery at San Anton. No electricity there but a homey place to stay.

Enjoy Burgos!

 

[goldie from aus]

Day 17 - Santa Domingo de Silos to Burgos

The Camino Frances is very busy and I don’t see myself doing this Camino again because of that. I’m not up to a late fall or earlier spring departure. Therefore I will savour every minute of it and see all that I can and hope to see.

This morning this song is the one for me. The sun is shining, the birds are singing. The city is waking up and preparing for a lovely Sunday. And so will I.

Enjoy your days in Burgos - new friends ahead. You never know girl, I'm doing my first Camino in fall this year, I'll let you know what its like.

 

[Dani7]

Burgos - day 2

Quiet day yesterday. Did laundry and walked around a bit and went to the Santa Maria cathedral. Took almost two hours to see everything. As I was walking through it, the very old little church that made me cry came to mind. I hold that one dear to my heart.

Wanted to go to the 7:30 mass but it was so packed, we were sitting shoulder to shoulder. I got claustrophobic and had to leave.

Today the museum of human evolution and find a walking sandal to not always have my trail shoes on. And..I think I’m going to be brave enough to have a manicure. You see I’ve always chewed my nails and haven’t on the Camino (a bad habit I wish to end) and now I have nails. I’ve always been so self conscious of my hands. So this is a big deal for me.

Sitting in that bench yesterday when I did my blog entry I noticed another pilgrim (the pilgrim hst with the flap in the back gave it away) sitting alone. No pack. She also looked sad. So I went over and said “Hi, would you like to join me for a coffee” and with a big smile she did. She had also just said bye to a walking buddy. We chatted and laughed for 40 minutes and agreed that we felt so much better. A big hug and that changed both our days. The Camino provides.

Dance with me feeling lazy and need to get going

 

[Dani7]

well…day started with a shoulda, coulda, woulda…should have checked hours of operation, then I could have gone to the museum yesterday and woulda’ve gone to the cathedral today. Museum is closed on Mondays opens tomorrow at 10 am and I’ll be walking to Hornillos. I guess I’ll have to see it via YouTube or something. Darn it

Letting go of this disappointment is going to take a café con leche and some tomato flavoured chips later.

 

[Dani7]

End of day 2 in Burgos - total walked (yesterday + today) 23 kms

After a very disappointing moment this morning. my afternoon walk along the river made me realize I am so eager to put my pack back on and walk again. Missed it. Last two days gave me an early insight on how I will feel when all is done.

Did not feel like visiting other churches or points of interest. Did not find sandals or light walking shoes I liked and when I did they did not have my size. My vegan ramen I ordered for take away to eat in my room turned out to be a chicken ramen but…I ended the day with a high. I’m a big girl now!!! Went for my first manicure. Biting my nails is an awful and ugly habit. I’m doing so good with that.

So… got my mojo back and ready to rumble!!!

 

[Rick M]

Many pilgrims find rest days.......jarring......since they take you out of your rhythm. I find I can't switch from pilgrim to tourist and back again quickly or easily at all. Yet the body needs rest sometimes, and needs to be listened to. Many find that a short day of 5-10 km or so every week is all it takes to give the body the break it needs. The body gets its rest, the head keeps its rhythm, and all is well.

 

[J Willhaus]

End of day 2 in Burgos - total walked (yesterday + today) 23 kms

After a very disappointing moment this morning. my afternoon walk along the river made me realize I am so eager to put my pack back on and walk again. Missed it. Last two days gave me an early insight on how I will feel when all is done.

Did not feel like visiting other churches or points of interest. Did not find sandals or light walking shoes I liked and when I did they did not have my size. My vegan ramen I ordered for take away to eat in my room turned out to be a chicken ramen but…I ended the day with a high. I’m a big girl now!!! Went for my first manicure. Biting my nails is an awful and ugly habit. I’m doing so good with that.

So… got my mojo back and ready to rumble!!!

You know we bought a whole case of Chicken Ramen cups at the grocery case-lot sale this winter and when we got them home the label they said they were "chicken-flavored vegan" Ramen cups. Go figure...
You can look again in Leon for shoes. It is the next big town. Enjoy the walk tomorrow.

 

[Dani7]

Day 18 - Burgos to Hornillos del Camino - 21kms

Good morning. I agree with comments above. Not sure I’m liking full rest days. Of course I’ll listen to my body and spirit if it needs it but Pamplona and now Burgos threw me out of my rhythm. Shorter days I will try when I’m feeling I need it and see how that goes.

Eager to start and this song I just can’t get out of my head. Great movie and a song that stays with you. You’re welcome .

 

[goldie from aus]

Day 18 - Burgos to Hornillos del Camino - 21kms

Eager to start and this song I just can’t get out of my head. Great movie and a song that stays with you. You’re welcome .

Iconic – Omg the Meseta awaits - enjoy your steps.

 

[SioCamino]

Good morning @Dani7, I'm really enjoying your updates. Regarding rest days, FWIW, for myself I've found that i don't really enjoy taking a full day, i get a bit itchy for walking! So now when i need a rest I do a short day maybe 10km (and perhaps treat myself to a room instead of a bunk depending on the destination). That way i get a rest and a walk. Buen camino

 

[Dani7]

Good morning @Dani7, I'm really enjoying your updates. Regarding rest days, FWIW, for myself I've found that i don't really enjoy taking a full day, i get a bit itchy for walking! So now when i need a rest I do a short day maybe 10km (and perhaps treat myself to a room instead of a bunk depending on the destination). That way i get a rest and a walk. Buen camino

I’m realizing after Burgos that that approach will work best for me as well. Experience is building on this Camino thank you for your input.

 

[Sheesh]

I too like the short day=rest day scenario. However, my preference is to have a private room the night leading into my shorter day. That way I can sleep in late and have a more languid start. Plus, it gives my laundry extra dry time.

This is a great thread @Dani7. Buen the-rest-or-your Camino.

 

[alexwalker]

Tomorrow you will reach Castrojeriz. The walk from Hornillos to Castrojeriz is my favorite day. You will really see what the Meseta is! You are doing great!

If you haven't found new shoes yet, Castrojeriz is the place: A small shop with everything Camino is there:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/buying-socks-from-the-old-man-in-castrojeriz.59048/

 

[Dani7]

End of day 18 - total kms 21.5

It’s official. I’m on the Meseta! The weather is in our favor this week. Not too hot, not too cold…just right .

Had a very special moment in the small church in Rabe de las Calzadas today. The nun there gives a small medallion of St. Mary and told me to have a safe Camino and that she will watch over me. She was so warm and sincere. Brought tears to my eyes. It’s the simple and genuine things I get to experience on this Camino that are so impactful to me. She gave me a big hug and a tissue for my tears. Special, memorable moment.

Rained 30 minutes out of Hornillos and I was ready with my “little red riding hood” poncho. I got to the albergue dry as a bone. The communal meal tonight was so delicious with a beautiful salad. The young lady and her brother running it here are doing such a great job for so many pilgrims. Day in and day out.

Before dinner I went exploring and came upon what was the “Antigua Ermita Benedictine” from the 14th century. Tried to look up info on the net but nothing substantial. I’ll post those photos tomorrow morning. I felt like an explorer (I know…corny right?). I love walking around the villages I’m in.

It was a good day. Even though the walk out of Burgos, my hips and right knee were saying “what? We’re at this again?” Then they stopped talking.

Going to bed feeling blessed. All these souls on the Camino, each with their story and reasons for walking and each with their own joys and sorrows. We are many…yet in a way…we are one.

 

[alexwalker]

Shortly after Castrojeriz there is a very long steep ascent. I always stop in Castrojeriz, and save the hill for the next morning. Some Spaniards once told me they call it Mata Burros (The Mule Killer)... Just saying... The Meseta isn't all flat.

 

[VNwalking]

Ohhh, the nuns at Rabe! They are special. So glad you got one of their blessings and little medallons.

I like to take one or two very short days as a rest. A whole day is too much. Like...Rabe-San Anton-San Nicolas. The latter are a lovely lovely pair of meseta donativos!

 

[Dani7]

Day 19 - Hornillos to Castrojeriz approx 20 ms

Good sleep. I feel rested. Second day on the meseta, high of 29 partly sunny. Perfect day

Here are the pictures of the abodes of these monks (or nuns?). They look like little hobbit houses but they actually lives underground for the most part. One door was busted at the top and another has a rather large peephole. (For air most likely).

I feel like a slow groove is in order this morning. See you on the other side.

 

[VNwalking]

Here are the pictures of the abodes of these monks (or nuns?). They look like little hobbit houses but they actually lives underground for the most part. One door was busted at the top and another has a rather large peephole. (For air most likely).

Pssst, Dani....
They're for storing vino, not anyone's abode.

 

[alexwalker]

After Castrojeriz, there's a pearl of an albergue in Boadilla del Camino, called Albergue en el Camino, with a nice garden, a small pool, some artwork, and a very good communal dinner.

Edit: Did you visit the shop of the old man?

 

[C clearly]

They're for storing vino, not anyone's abode

Yes, and they are called "bodegas." In some other parts of Spain (e.g. near Guadix on the Mozarabe), homes are also built into the hillsides.

 

[Dani7]

After Castrojeriz, there's a pearl of an albergue in Boadilla del Camino, called Albergue en el Camino, with a nice garden, a small pool, some artwork, and a very good communal dinner.

Edit: Did you visit the shop of the old man?

Yes I did visit him. I don’t know how old he is but when he was climbing the step ladder to get a pair of shoes for me (I told him I wanted something similar to what I had and pointed to them but he brought down two pairs of hiking boots). To put then back I told him I would pass him the boxes. I was so afraid Alex that he would fall. I felt so bad for his effort that I bought a pair of liner socks that I did not need but wanted to buy something. I showed him your picture. He looked at it for awhile as if he was searching his memory banks and then his face lit up. I got a picture of he and I then he took my hand in both of his and wished me a Buen Camino. I was amazed at his strength of presence. Thank you so much for guiding me there

 

[alexwalker]

Yes I did visit him. I don’t know how old he is but when I was climbing the step ladder to get a pair of shoes for me (I told him I wanted something similar to what I had and painted to them but he brought down two pairs of hiking boots). To our then back I told him I would pass him the boxes. I was so afraid Alex that he would fall. I felt so bad for this effort that i bought a pair of liner socks that I did not need but wanted to buy something. I showed hi your picture. He looked at it for awhile as if he was searching his memory banks and then his face lit up. I got a picture if he and I and he took my hand in both of his and wished me a Buen Camino. I amazed at his strength of presence. Thank you so much for guiding me there

He is 92, and he will be running across the plaza as always, long after I'm gone (69) So glad he remembered me. And happy for you!

 

[Dani7]

End of day 19 - 18.7 kms and total of 25.3

I had no access to the internet all day yesterday from either the albergue or my data line so not able to post.

My day yesterday was so colourful with many terrain changes. Beautiful weather and a nice walk to Castrojeriz.

In Hontanas there is a lovely church there that I stopped in for moment of gratitude and lit a big candle and listened to the music and contemplated on how fortunate I was to be doing this Camino. After two separate types of cancers (cervical and breast) life has become even more precious. I never took life for granted but busyness in life can sometimes make you forget how there is so much to be grateful for. Even in hard times.

The ruins of San Anton was a very special place. Just imagining all the pilgrims who came through there hundreds of years ago being cared for and helped. Humbling.

I was going to go to the big church coming into the town around 4:30 so was walking there and a man in his work garage that I did not see, asked me if wanted a sello and he had two to choose from. Then he has a basket of Camino like trinkets and told me to take one. My initial reaction was, wow, how sweet of this man to be so kind to us Peregrinos…but then I guess he realized I thought this was free as I kept thanking him and he gave me a good tap on the arm and has his hand out. Cost a euro. Lol. I laughed to myself. It was so funny to see his hand out and his face as if to say “what??!! You think this is free!!” Good lesson learned.

I had the best vegetarian tacos…in.my.life!!! Best meal on the Camino so far.

And then, stomach full and body tired. I slept 9.5 hrs. . I haven’t slept that long since I was a teenager.

How I felt yesterday is reflected in this song. “She” is the Camino

 

[Monika58]

Monika, the Camino Frances right now is very very busy. I’m in Torres del Rio tonight and there is nothing before or after Logrono, except for Navarrete and for me that would mean 33kms and I don’t think I can do that. So Im not sure what I am going to do. If this continues I would recommend you book ahead at least for the first 10 days.

Monika, the Camino Frances right now is very very busy. I’m in Torres del Rio tonight and there is nothing before or after Logrono, except for Navarrete and for me that would mean 33kms and I don’t think I can do that. So Im not sure what I am going to do. If this continues I would recommend you book ahead at least for the first 10 days.

Hi Dani! You were soooo right!!! Well, I unfortunately didn’t read your message to me until I was well under way - experiencing these issues first hand! I chose not to plan ahead very far because I never know what shape I will be in by the end of the day…

 

[Dani7]

Hi Dani! You were soooo right!!! Well, I unfortunately didn’t read your message to me until I was well under way - experiencing these issues first hand! I chose not to plan ahead very far because I never know what shape I will be in by the end of the day…

I’m by far no expert but what I learned (from the many contributors on this forum) is that there are options. Municipals are one of them but it is better to get there before they open to be on the safe side. So this may mean a more “rushed feeling” to your day. I tell myself now that worst comes to worst I can take a taxi forward or backward to another village that does have a bed for me and take a taxi back to there I left off.

As you get stronger you will be in a better position to gauge on a day to day basis your capabilities and therefore, if you wish, you can book ahead to help ease your spirit. Buen, double buen camino

 

[Dani7]

Day 20 - Castrojeriz to Boadilla 20 kms

Today, after the climb and descent out of Castrojeriz, it really felt like the Meseta. Flat walking into Boadilla. Just had the best communal meal here with a homemade vegetarian lasagna that was like being in an Italian restaurant and an amazing French crepe with some lime sherbet. A French man at our table said it was “cuisine fine”. I’m a foodie if you haven’t guessed by now .

Weather on the cool side and tomorrow 3C in the morning.

By now my pack feels molded to my back. My feet part of the earth and my mind, body and spirit fully embodying this journey. Meeting wonderful people from all over the world. We all agree on one thing. Our politicians should do a Camino to see how the citizens of the world come together as one and help each other when needed. How we respect our cultures and differences and also have so much in common.

The vistas after the climb were mind blowing. Never saw so many shades of green before. When I left home, I was so depleted and in need of restoration and inspiration. It was time.

I am finding my way…

 

[Theatregal]

I am enjoying your beautiful photos @Dani7 !

 

[alexwalker]

Today, after the climb and descent out of Castrojeriz, it really felt like the Meseta. Flat walking into Boadilla.

I told you so...

By now my pack feels molded to my back. My feet part of the earth and my mind, body and spirit fully embodying this journey.

You have entered Zen mode, I think.

We often say:

The first week, you are a bit confused and unsecure. but you will learn fast.
The second week, you know how to get around, how the albergues work, how to keep on.
The third week, you are in Zen mode: You just keep on keeping on, and you can handle everyting. You are a full-bodied, experienced pilgrim on the Camino.

I believe that's where you are at now.

Our politicians should do a Camino to see how the citizens of the world come together as one and help each other when needed. How we respect our cultures and differences and also have so much in common.

Unfortunately, we tend to elect the most incompetent people as our governments...

BTW: Did you stay at Albergue En El Camino in Boadillo? Nice place.

Take care tomorrow. Stop in Carrion bc next etapa is 17 kms with little or no support. Pack water & food for the day out of Carrion. In Carrion many recommend to stay in the albergue Santa Maria, on you left when entering the town. The place is famous and cherised for its singing nuns in the afternoon.

Personally I prefer to sleep with the nuns in Albergue Espiritu Santo some 200 m. further on: All wooden beds, no bunk beds, kind women, peaceful, and never turning anyone away.

 

[MichaelMySon]

Hi Danni .it's so lovely listening to your journal and how strong you have become a true pilgrim .keep going .buen camino ️️

 

[Dani7]

Day 21 - Boadilla to Carrion de Los Condes approx 24.3 kms

Slept ok. Stayed at the Juntos albergue. Lovely and inviting Dutch couple who made a home away from home.

Longer day and staying at a municipal. Want to see the singing nuns if I can. If not there are other options.

Feeling nervous as I’m walking faster today to get there in time so need a song that always gets me going at home. Usually do my housework to this song. Hang on to your britches and bras…it’s a doozy time to take the big guns out. see you on the other side

 

[Shona]

Dani, only found your narrative today and you are such a beautiful writer, drawing me in to your adventure with all its ups and downs, and that’s not just the hills and mountains.
I read your May 2 entry and then the reply box and my heart sank. Oh No!You can’t stop now, Dani, you are doing so well. Then I noticed there was page 2 Yabababadoo!
when we stayed in Carrion there was a free concert for pilgrims in the evening of Spanish guitar music, given by a master player from Norway. We stayed at the albergue in the convent, the cakes and biscuits made and sold by the nuns are delicious……
¡Ultreia!

 

[J Willhaus]

Yes, hope you enjoy the walk and took the green variant instead of walking on the senda by the highway all the way from Fromista to Carrion.

 

[Dani7]

Yes, hope you enjoy the walk and took the green variant instead of walking on the senda by the highway all the way from Fromista to Carrion.

I most certainly took the green variant it was so so beautiful.

 

[Dani7]

End of day 21 - 24 kms approx, 26.5 total

Took the green variant today after Población des Campos and it was so worth the extra km or so. The bird songs that whole route were incredible. So many different kinds of birds. Good shade passed Villovieco and walking beside the canal was so very peaceful.

There is a saying right!! Be careful what you pray for. Been praying for rain lately, for the farmers and oh boy the last 90 min of today’s walk into Carrion de Los Condes was hard rain coupled with very strong winds from my right…and…hail!! You read right…hail!! The wind was so strong that the hail felt like pins and needles on my hands and it was about 9C so I don’t even know what the wind chill brought the temp to. Unreal

Saw the singing nuns and we were many people, local and Peregrinos. I did a video call with my sister and she chimed in as well.

And to finish a perfect day despite the cold and rain and hail, I made myself a delicious salad with a green apple and garlic croutons. Gave some to a young girl with a cold.

I’m ready for tomorrow’s long 17 kms stretch. No cafe con leche before I go though because want to go easy on my bladder, if you know what I mean. Tomorrow morning it will be 2C. Partly sunny high of 17. Spring so far has been more on the cool side for a big part of the day.

Still have those birdsongs in my head. So only fitting to finish the day with a song I hold most dear to my heart. Written and sung by the late and ever so talented Christine McVie. My favorite interpretation however is by the late and oh so angelic, Eva Cassidy.

 

[alexwalker]

There is a horse carriage leaving from the outskirts of Carrion at 8.30 AM. 15 Euros will bring you out 17 kms to the next village. I have never taken it. If you walk, it will pass you somewhere. Maybe you can hop on

 

[alexwalker]

In the village of Templarios ahead of you, there is a very nice albergue named Jacques de Molay. Good food, small garden with outdoor tables.

Molay was the last leader of the Knight Templars. He was burned at the stake in 1314 in Paris. His last words were " within a month and a year, the king of France and the Pope will be dead for this!". 3 weeks later the king died, and within a year, also the Pope. The Templars were crushed on friday 13th 1307. Ever since, Friday 13th has been considered a dangerous/unfortunate day. Most pilgrims don't have a clue

More history here:

Jacques de Molay - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

 

[CarmenZen]

End of day 21 - 24 kms approx, 26.5 total

Took the green variant today after Población des Campos and it was so worth the extra km or so. The bird songs that whole route were incredible. So many different kinds of birds. Good shade passed Villovieco and walking beside the canal was so very peaceful.

There is a saying right!! Be careful what you pray for. Been praying for rain lately, for the farmers and oh boy the last 90 min of today’s walk into Carrion de Los Condes was hard rain coupled with very strong winds from my right…and…hail!! You read right…hail!! The wind was so strong that the hail felt like pins and needles on my hands and it was about 9C so I don’t even know what the wind chill brought the temp to. Unreal

Saw the singing nuns and we were many people, local and Peregrinos. I did a video call with my sister and she chimed in as well.

And to finish a perfect day despite the cold and rain and hail, I made myself a delicious salad with a green apple and garlic croutons. Gave some to a young girl with a cold.

I’m ready for tomorrow’s long 17 kms stretch. No cafe con leche before I go though because want to go easy on my bladder, if you know what I mean. Tomorrow morning it will be 2C. Partly sunny high of 17. Spring so far has been more on the cool side for a big part of the day.

Still have those birdsongs in my head. So only fitting to finish the day with a song I hold most dear to my heart. Written and sung by the late and ever so talented Christine McVie. My favorite interpretation however is by the late and oh so angelic, Eva Cassidy.

I agree. Eva Cassidy does it beautifully! My favorite of hers however is still Over the Rainbow!

 

[Dani7]

Day 22 - Carrion de Los Condes to Ledigos 23.2 kms

Well. It finally happened. What I felt would. I left my little plastic container with my Mack’s wax ear plugs at the Boadilla albergue . I’ll see what I can find in Leon.

Last night it was like two separate train lines snoring in the room. sleep was elusive and so many people got up at 5am.

Weather on the cool side this morning. Read a plaque in the dining room at the albergue Santa Maria. Construction started in 1993 and finished in 1996. The nuns here (usually 4 at a time) stay for 4 months and then a change up. They are very kind with easy smiles. One spoke fairly good English.

So despite a busy night for my ears…can’t stop this thing I started see you on the other side.

More photos feo yesterday.

 

[MichaelMySon]

Have a good way .stay strong buen camino

 

[Bergeron]

Danielle...what a journey to date and I am also appreciating your forum friends and their comments...everyone has your back! I don't even know what to say except I am sooo happy for YOU. You are exactly where you need to BE. Sending love

 

[J Willhaus]

You might look in Sahagun for your ear plugs. If not, there is an El Corte Ingles department store in Leon with a wide selection of just about everything.

 

[alexwalker]

Go to any Pharmacia for earplugs. Tapones para los oídos.

 

[J9L]

End of day 21 - 24 kms approx, 26.5 total

Took the green variant today after Población des Campos and it was so worth the extra km or so. The bird songs that whole route were incredible. So many different kinds of birds. Good shade passed Villovieco and walking beside the canal was so very peaceful.

There is a saying right!! Be careful what you pray for. Been praying for rain lately, for the farmers and oh boy the last 90 min of today’s walk into Carrion de Los Condes was hard rain coupled with very strong winds from my right…and…hail!! You read right…hail!! The wind was so strong that the hail felt like pins and needles on my hands and it was about 9C so I don’t even know what the wind chill brought the temp to. Unreal

Saw the singing nuns and we were many people, local and Peregrinos. I did a video call with my sister and she chimed in as well.

And to finish a perfect day despite the cold and rain and hail, I made myself a delicious salad with a green apple and garlic croutons. Gave some to a young girl with a cold.

I’m ready for tomorrow’s long 17 kms stretch. No cafe con leche before I go though because want to go easy on my bladder, if you know what I mean. Tomorrow morning it will be 2C. Partly sunny high of 17. Spring so far has been more on the cool side for a big part of the day.

Still have those birdsongs in my head. So only fitting to finish the day with a song I hold most dear to my heart. Written and sung by the late and ever so talented Christine McVie. My favorite interpretation however is by the late and oh so angelic, Eva Cassidy.

Quel beau choix de chanson !Touchant ,doux Merci pour tes belles photos J’espère que ta main est mieux .
On admire ton courage et ta détermination est impressionnante

 

[ivar]

Quel beau choix de chanson !Touchant ,doux Merci pour tes belles photos J’espère que ta main est mieux .
On admire ton courage et ta détermination est impressionnante

English please

 

[Dani7]

Quel beau choix de chanson !Touchant ,doux Merci pour tes belles photos J’espère que ta main est mieux .
On admire ton courage et ta détermination est impressionnante

Quel beau choix de chanson !Touchant ,doux Merci pour tes belles photos J’espère que ta main est mieux .
On admire ton courage et ta détermination est impressionnante

I so appreciate your comments and encouragement. Thank you I’m future please write in English as this is an English forum.

 

[Dani7]

End of day 22 - 24.1 kms, 25.6 total

Thank goodness it was not hot today. With very little shade and walking in a straight line for most of the day, various pilgrims along the way and in our albergue agreed: it was not an easy day mentally and therefore physically.

I was however in the good company of another French pilgrim I had met a few days before and we walked the entire day together. It really helped get through this stage. We stopped at “café Móvil”. What a great place. Coffee served in glassware, toast and tomate. Hit the stop. Quick stop to check a hot spot on feet at Calzadilla de la Cueza and ended for the day at Ledigos at albergue La Morena. If you want a generous glass of sangria and an amazingly good paella verduras…stop here

I went to bed a happy camper and fell asleep before the timer on the light in my cubicle went off after it’s 8 minutes. So it’s only fitting I end the day with this

 

[DOB]

End of day 22 - 24.1 kms, 25.6 total

Thank goodness it was not hot today. With very little shade and walking in a straight line for most of the day, various pilgrims along the way and in our albergue agreed: it was not an easy day mentally and therefore physically.

I was however in the good company of another French pilgrim I had met a few days before and we walked the entire day together. It really helped get through this stage. We stopped at “café Móvil”. What a great place. Coffee served in glassware, toast and tomate. Hit the stop. Quick stop to check a hot spot on feet at Calzadilla de la Cueza and ended for the day at Ledigos at albergue La Morena. If you want a generous glass of sangria and an amazingly good paella verduras…stop here

I went to bed a happy camper and fell asleep before the timer on the light in my cubicle went off after it’s 8 minutes. So it’s only fitting I end the day with this

Perfect song to end your day!