the Camino Frances in Dec / Jan

[jl]

I have been feeling guilty that I haven't started a thread to let you know how it is on the road, and so, while I have a few minutes to spare, I thought I would do a quick post of my experiences so far.

I have been very impressed with how hospitable the way has been in a tough season. The last time I walked the CF was in 2007 and I have noticed a few changes. To my way of thinking there has been a concerted effort to tidy it up. By tidy I mean the signage. The yellow arrow, while still there in abundance has faded, and has been replaced with nice tidy signs with both the shell and the arrow. These are often placed high (as in need a ladder to get to them!) on buildings, presumably to avoid vandalism.

There is also a high degree of advertising of albergue, pensions, hotels etc before entering a town. Much more than I have ever seen before. On the other hand, none of it is accurate for this time of the year, and one would assume for November and Jan/Feb as well. This could be confusing for a pilgrim travelling on the cusp of the season.
I caught the last train to St Jean, and yes, the pilgrim office was open (I was able to tell them that I was the only pilgrim on it), and yes, I felt very safe walking, in the dark, to the office. I was greeted with warmth by the 2 men in the office, and then escorted to the albergue by one of them.

I stayed in the albergue - a 4star one in my opinion at Valcarlos and found the whole town warm and supportive. The menu del dia at the bar was fantastic, and it opened early enough for brekky before hoisting the pack on - a bit of a treat!

The albergue in Pamplona was meant to be closed, but wasn't. Again a good experience, with plenty of space. The albergue in Vilambistia was meant to be open on Christmas night, but was very definitely "close-ed"! I was driven 2 kms up the road to the bar and subsequently the albergue which was an absolute delight! The barman is the hospitalero, and a warm, friendly and helpful man to boot.

It is now getting very cold. Snow lies on the ground, and there are quite strong winds to contend with too.

This is a bit disjointed, the brain being a bit addled, but hopefully it will give some info to people about this time of the year. I will try and post a few more times, but my main priority is a blog I am doing for family and friends at home. I will put the link below.
By the way, WiFi has been pretty accessible - except in Espinosa (none at all) & Villafranca Montes de Oca. The albergue has it, but I didn't stay there, and the bars etc didn't have it. Janet

http://mywintercamino.blogspot.com.au/
For those interested in the VF I also did a blog last year
http://janetleitch.blogspot.com.au

 

[brawblether]

Thanks, jl, for the update. I have been following your blog with interest and appreciate your well written posts and great photos (do you filter the colours or something? they are amazing!). Those who walk at this time of year and post are invaluable to others as there are so few winter walkers. Thank you for taking the time to do so.

 

[jl]

I literally "pont and shoot" brawblether! Sometimes the wind has been pushing me around, an other times I have my mittens on and have to hope that I am pressing buttons. Added to that invariably, my glasses are never in the easily accessible place and so I am mostly doing it by guess and good luck! Janet

 

[jl]

I am now in Itero de Vega. I have been surprised t how many pilgrims there have been on the way, right from the start. There have only been a few nights when I have been alone,and most nighs there have been at least 4 or 5 pilgrims, and I know of numerous others who are just in front or just behind.

The weather is icy - this morning leaving Hontanas, it was easy walking on the mud because it was frozen! There is a lot of mud on the path, as one would expect, and there are times when I grow several inches.

I have been pleased to see that there have been a number of "re-routes" of the path. I would assume this is to get the huge number of summer pilgrims safely off the road. An example of this is the bridge entry into Vilafranca Montes de Oca, where though pilgrims have some road walking into the town, the bridge crossing has been diverted onto a pedestrian only bridge - much safer given the heavy trucks that trundle across it! This kind of diversion has been repeated a number of times.

Paths too have been widened - eg the single file track between Hontanas and San Anton is now much wider than I remember, though still dirt. They have in some cases been resurfaced as in a the case of the steep descent after the climb at Castrojeriz. It is now concrete almosttthe bottom of the hill - no more tripping on rocks and gutters in the roadway!

There seem to be enough albergue open for reasonable distances thus far. Well wait and see what the future holds.

These thoughts are a bit disjointed, but it is a matter of grabbing WiFi when I can along the way. Janet

 

[wanderlust100]

hi, J,

I have a question for you since you are staying in different types of lodging - some heated and some unheated. I am planning a winter camino as well.

How many degrees Celsius or Fahrenheit should I be prepared for in the unheated lodging? I have a sleeping bag down to O degrees F but it is a little heavy to carry.

thanks so much! I enjoy reading your blog!

 

[jl]

Hi wanderlust, It is interesting to observe what people take with them on a winter camino. I have seen people with no sleeping bags and making use of blankets provided, then there are people like me who carry a thermal inner sheet as well as a sleeping bag. My bag, by some standards, is heavy - 765gms, but it has been worth it. It is a minus 5, and sometimes has been too hot, but it compensates for the times when the albergue have been chilly. I am reluctant to give advice re anything to do with temperature, as I don't feel the cold like others do. Jill, who has been travelling with me across the Meseta, has found it much colder, often using an extra one or two blankets.

Now for a few general comments. The Meseta, as always, was wonderful! Yes it was very cold, and after the first few days, quite wet. The paths are often clay based and so if it has rained one suddenly tends to grow a few inches with the mud sticking to the boots! I think that this makes it doubly important, for comfort as well as consideration for hosts, to have some sort of lightweight alternative footwear. This can be used as "slippers" for night time bathroom visits, but even for going out. I have a pair of closed Croce which are perfect (I think they are called Mary Jane) as I can wear them out visiting the town and they still keep my feet dry except in the heaviest downpour.

Some of the paths on the Mesteta have been "improved" such as the descent down the hill out of Castrojeriz which is now concreted, but the way still still has its remote and special magic! Reb and her team have done a splendid job of cleaning gup the Palencia part of the path. It was noticeable (rubbish that is) on crossing the border into the Leon province.

Reb's hospitality was of course a highlight. Thanks Reb and so nice to meet you after reading all your posts over the years

In Leon I am staying in a hotel - the Collegiata Real San Isadora, which is a converted monastery and an absolute delight. It is like staying in a well heated museum. My room has 2 little stone seats at the window, and the paintings decorating the walls in the corridors along with the old furniture, make this a delightful place to stay and rest before tackling the mountains. The brekky is pretty good too, included in the room price. It is at the back of the San Isadora basilica with yellow arrows right at the entrance way!

I stopped walking and caught the train to Leon so that I could see the Three kings festivities on the eve of three kings day. I am so glad I did. As an Australian we have no idea of the importance of this day - by now, for us, Christmas is well and truly over and we have certainly stopped singing carols! I can recommend being here at this time.

Can't close a post finishing in Leon without mentioning the Cathedral. I love the cathedral and consider myself blessed that I have been able to visit it at a time when I could pop in 2, 3,or 4 times a day if I wanted. That said, I must say that I visited again, paying my 5€ this time. I was able to learn more about it this time than on any of my other visits because of the audio guide. It is interesting and worth it and if my tarrif helps in the upkeep of such a magnificent building so be it.

Well, I have had three nights of rest, tomorrow I head for the mountains and whatever weather they throw at me! Janet

 

[LTfit]

Wonderful to read your reports Janet. I only did the last 115 km from Dec. 27-31 but was surprised how warm the Xunta albergues were. My 15c sleeping bag was just fine (slept in my clothes). An extra blanket was hardly needed. The weather was quite mild and 3 out of the 5 days dry. Hope that you have the same luck. Those that I talked to who had started in O'Cebreiro had a tough time getting through the snow and visibility was poor.

Good luck to you and keep warm!

 

[robertt]

I'm a winter pilg, and am pretty familiar with much you relate and show on your luscious blog. Lots of memories. Thanks for taking the time, jl. Next I'll check out your VF experiences.

Ultreia

Rob

 

[wanderlust100]

Thanks for your reply! I read that you are having trouble with downloading pictures from your new camera. Is that problem that the computers you are using don't recognize the camera that is connected to it by USB Port because it doesn't have the right driver? There is a way around this. There is a simple device that you can buy at a photo or camera shop. The one that I bought was called a 12 in 1 connector. I take the photo storage chip from my camera and put it in the connector and then the connector goes to the computer by USB port. Somehow this works whereas connecting from the camera to the computer doesn't. Hope this helps!

 

[jl]

I am in a restaurant at present and it would be inappropriate to go rummaging in my bag! I have a card reader with me and so can try that, the tablet didn't recognise it before, but could try that again. I am using the nexus 7 tablet and it automatically figured how to do the Lumix, but that is not the case with the Olympus. I will have a careful look at your suggestion and see if I can work it out - this is one of the technologically illiterate talking here! Thanks for your help. Because of a very sore knee I have bussed to Astorga and if I am lucky there might be a shop here that can help me! If the worst comes to theworst i can try and find a computer and use the card reader to insert the pbotos, but it is certainly easier using the tabet on the spot! Janet

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Janet,
I had missed your posts till now and must say your report is very tempting! I understand the attraction and would love to be able to follow in your footsteps some year. Hope that your knee improves (did it perhaps fall victim to all of the increased asphalt?) and looking forward to more. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[jl]

Thanks Laurie, the CF in winter is a very different kettle of fish to any other season. There are just enough pilgrims on the way to have a little social contact if one desires, but most days go by seeing no one until reaching the albergue, and even then that is not a given. It is nice to see the changes in places that I haven't visited since 2007 too, especially as I teach about the Camino twice a year.

I actually have an ulterior motive for doing the CF in winter, as I want to test both myself, and my equipment, in preparation for a very long journey I am planning when I retire in 6months!

I have given more "chat" on the blog - time is limited to do both I am afraid, Janet

 

[dbjordan]

Being a new peregrino, I have only your comments and suggestions to go by and I thank you all for them. I started my Camino in September from Roncevalle and got as far as Burgos before my heel decided to discorporate. I was crushed when I had to return home . But the call and pull of the Camino is strong and I resolved to return ASAP. Which led me to a winter Camino. I had no real idea of what to expect other than cold and wet.
I'm currently in Sarria, and will continue my Camino tomorrow. The weather has already been described, but to reiterate it has been scattered showers and drizzle. Today the weather was a balmy 12 °C which is much warmer than Leon on Tres Reyes (January 6). On the bus from Leon to Lugo and then to Sarria I counted 6 pilgrims (one on bike). I can appreciate comments about the wind which can be brutal in many parts of Spain in winter.
Muchas gracias and Buen Camino!
P.s. Janet, I love your blog.

 

[jl]

I heard something that I find both disturbing and sad last night. I am in Astorga, and was the only Aussie (to say European doesn't sound right here) in a dorm of 8 South Koreans. These were all new pilgrims to me, though with the exception of the occasional Spanish and Italian pilgrim one could get the impression that these intrepid South Korean pilgrims were the only ones on the way at present. Anyway to the point of this quick post.

There was one other nationality in the albergue last night - a young man from Hong Kong who had walked from Paris. He was telling one of the young South Korean girls how it was not safe for her to walk on her own at this time of the year. The reason? Because Spanish men like young Asian girls! When I said that I was a woman travelling on her own his response was that I was not young or Asian - no argument there, especially on the first point!

I found the reason for his comments on safety quite disturbing on behalf of those women.

Another sad thing was this optimistic and cheerful young man's circumstances. He had not planned to walk from Paris, but was robbed at knife point by three men who stole his cash, and so instead of catching train he walked, safely, until he got El Bergo Ranero, where he was robbed again. This time though it was a fellow pilgrim! He had a sixth sense about this bloke, took a photo of him, and was able to "assist the police with their enquiries" and got his bag, including his passport, back some hours later!

At this time of year one expects to get support from fellow travellers, not be undermined by them. Fortunately for him this tale had a satisfactory ending, but without his passport he could have had all sorts of difficulties. Janet

 

[brawblether]

Goodness what a terrible story. It makes me sick to think that pilgrims are targeted. These, or at the very least the second stories, are not of opportune thieves but of calculated theft from pilgrims who are vulnerable and easy targets. Makes me sick.

 

[pudgypilgrim]

Yes, but does anyone have any corroboration for any of these tales?

I don't understand, for instance, in what way walking from Paris is easier without money--the Paris-Tours route is darned expensive compared to other caminos and a train ticket would be a whole bunch cheaper, so I find his story puzzling, to say the least.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

a young man from Hong Kong who had walked from Paris. He was telling one of the young South Korean girls how it was not safe for her to walk on her own at this time of the year. The reason? Because Spanish men like young Asian girls!

He would know this how??? Spaniards are hound dogs, but so are many pilgrims. The magnets I have seen in bars were the German blonds. Asians are less common in Spain, so may be something of a curiosity. But I don't see how a male from Hong Kong would be any kind of authority on who Spaniards are attracted to. If Spanish males had been approaching him, then he might be a bit more of an authority on attraction...

 

[dougfitz]

He would know this how??? Spaniards are hound dogs, but so are many pilgrims. The magnets I have seen in bars were the German blonds. Asians are less common in Spain, so may be something of a curiosity. But I don't see how a male from Hong Kong would be any kind of authority on who Spaniards are attracted to. If Spanish males had been approaching him, then he might be a bit more of an authority on attraction...

My cynical self wondered whether he might have been trying to engineer pleasant company for the following day!

 

[jl]

The giant pilgrim Oak tree just before entering Rabanal is no more! The stump stands, and lying next to it is part of what would have been the trunk. Two lonely seats stand either side of the stump. What happened I have no idea. Brierly will haveto delete the photo in the guide!

After the Cruz de ferro the path is now quite wide, with a number of bench seats placed along the way. Thomas can no longer ring his bell when he sees you walking down the road - if you follow the path you are out of site until you are nearly at Manjarin. I would think this path could be quite wet until well into spring. It was ok today, it was frozen, but as the weather warms it could be quite muddy! Janet

 

[jl]

Somewhere on the forum I read a query about heating in the winter in the albergues. Yes, they tend to be heated, however it has been my experience, with one exception, that the heating gets turned off any time between 9 & 11 pm. I observed a number of people getting caught out with drying washing, assuming that the heating would stay on and that would be able to get it dry! The one exception? O Cebreiro, where it was so hot I only slept in my inner sheet, and the heating stayed on all night.

I have also been intending to comment on Brierly. We all assume his is an English language only guide. Wrong! I have seen a copy Korean - same maps, photos, but can't vouch for the writing as it was in Korean!