The Camino Primitivo - 16 March 2016 - 27 March 2016

[the euro walker]

Hello Everyone,

I am 33 and I walked Camino Francese and Camino Finisterre in June 2015. It was my first long distant walk and my first Camino. All on my own. I was scared of the unknown and very anxious. But I did it and only regret that I did not do this earlier in my life. Since the return just over 8 months ago I simply can not get that experience out of my head. I think of it everyday. I dream of it. I keep on looking through my pictures and read my diary. The best thing I have ever done in my life.

At the end of February 2016, just under 8 months after my first Camino I thought: "that is it, I can not wait any longer! I need to go again". The Easter break is my earliest opportunity. Yes, lets do it then, I thought. Lets walk to Santiago for Easter! Yes! So, just couple of weeks ago I decided that this time I would walk the Camino Primitivo. The only walk I can do in its entity within 2 week break. At start I thought that I have to little time to prepare but then, well, I am already kind of geared up anyway. I figured out transfers, daily distances, stocked up in warmer clothes. Yes, I am going. But....mid March. Bit bonkers? Yeah....a bit. But no, I am going. Then I started researching in more detail. Are the albergues going to be open? Is it going to be really cold? Rainy? Can I actually do it. Surprisingly there is very little advice in the books and on-line about doing Primitivo in March. Well, apart from the ones that tell you not to do it in March. But I am not easily put off. I spent lots of time putting the whole thing together and have gone from scared to excited. Now the flights are booked and there is no turning back. I am due to fly out to Asturias in 8 days time on the morning of the 16th March. I will start walking from Oviedo the same day. I will be on a tight schedule. No rest days. I must make it for Easter and of course my return flight on 29th March.

There are so many unanswered questions and lack of information makes me a bit uncomfortable. Will I actually do it? We will find out soon! All I know, it will not be easy....it will be really special!

I will keep you posted on the progress. Hopefully it will be useful to anyone who would like or can only do it in the colder months of a year.

Ps. If there is anyone doing it now, March 2016, please do get in touch! I could do with some tips!

Ps 2. My mum and my partner insisted on going with me too. They have not done any Caminos before. I warned them of the challenges but they wanted to go with me regardless. I am happy they trust my experience so far and are ready for it. I have my worries in that respect but believe they can do it. Anyone can do it. It will be great!

Buen Camino!
Karolina

 

[petro]

Buen camino! Please keep us posted, I start from Oviedo on 10 May and I would love to follow your journey.

 

[domigee]

Buen camino Karolina!
Like Petro says, 'keep us posted'.
I'll be following on your footsteps but sometime in June/July.

 

[María Sosa]

Buen Camino, we'll be doing it from April 22th, so I will love to follow your journey and find out everything about your walk. Good luck!!

 

[AdventuresFool]

Buen Camino! We are doing the primitivo April 16 for our one year wedding anniversary. I have two weeks that includes transportation back and forth from Madrid. Please keep us updated on your trip!

 

[the euro walker]

Buen Camino! We are doing the primitivo April 16 for our one year wedding anniversary. I have two weeks that includes transportation back and forth from Madrid. Please keep us updated on your trip!

Ohhh, what a wonderful idea! On my Camino Francese I met a couple from Italy who were on their honeymoon! I thought that was absolutely lovely and sweet!
Buen Camino!

 

[the euro walker]

Buen Camino, we'll be doing it from April 22th, so I will love to follow your journey and find out everything about your walk. Good luck!!

Thank you! Yes, I will be taking thorough notes and hopefully my observations and experiences will be of some use to you and you will know what to expect!!

 

[Waka]

I wish you a happy and successful camino, it is always a challenge but deep down you know you can do it and having the support of your mum and partner can only be good.

Please come back and tell us all how you got on.

Buen Camino

 

[the euro walker]

I wish you a happy and successful camino, it is always a challenge but deep down you know you can do it and having the support of your mum and partner can only be good.

Please come back and tell us all how you got on.

Buen Camino

Thank you!

 

[Gerry Sinclair]

Hi Karolina,
I'm off on the Camino del Salvador, March 19th and the Camino Primitivo on the 23rd or 24th.
Buen Camino
Gerry

 

[TerryB]

Hi Karolina,
I'm off on the Camino del Salvador, March 19th and the Camino Primitivo on the 23rd or 24th.
Buen Camino
Gerry

Be very careful folks! There can be heavy snowfalls, whiteout conditions, on the Salvador and Primitivo until well into April. Listen to the locals and don't take risks.
This was the pyrenees but the same applies!
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...l-and-listen-to-the-locals.38869/#post-386113

Blessings on your Caminos
Tio Tel

 

[Bradypus]

Ps 2. My mum and my partner insisted on going with me too. They have not done any Caminos before. I warned them of the challenges but they wanted to go with me regardless. I am happy they trust my experience so far and are ready for it. I have my worries in that respect but believe they can do it. Anyone can do it. It will be great!

I wish you all well and hope you have a wonderful experience. However, I think I would be more hesitant and cautious than you appear to be. Do your mum and partner have experience of long-distance walking on other routes in winter? To walk the complete Camino Primitivo in 10 days means an average of about 32km per day, much of it long steep climbs and descents. Several high exposed hilltops along the way. There is also the possibility of severe weather in late March. Snow and ice would make parts of the route very hazardous. While I admire your optimism and enthusiasm I cannot agree that "Anyone can do it." Please be prepared to change your plans if you or your companions find conditions on the ground more challenging than you expect.

 

[Tia Valeria]

You can check the expected snow line on aemet - Asturias using the towns of Grado and Grandas de Salime to get the info. Currently the forecast for Friday is snow down to 700mts and for Tuesday it is giving snow down to 1300mts. Hope it improves for you, and as @TerryB says 'Listen to the locals'. Personally I would rather be on the Inglés at this time of year, but I don't like the cold.
This is Puerto de Palo showing the snow poles marking the road, with the altitude.

 

[ParistoCapeCod]

Thank you for that weather website, it is in English as well and April looks wet and chilly, just like my home state.

 

[ParistoCapeCod]

Hello Everyone,

I am 33 and I walked Camino Francese and Camino Finisterre in June 2015. It was my first long distant walk and my first Camino. All on my own. I was scared of the unknown and very anxious. But I did it and only regret that I did not do this earlier in my life. Since the return just over 8 months ago I simply can not get that experience out of my head. I think of it everyday. I dream of it. I keep on looking through my pictures and read my diary. The best thing I have ever done in my life.

Please let us know about where you sleep, I am walking Lugo to SdC April 18-26th. Walk with joy!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

You can check the expected snow line on aemet - Asturias using the towns of Grado and Grandas de Salime to get the info. Currently the forecast for Friday is snow down to 700mts and for Tuesday it is giving snow down to 1300mts. Hope it improves for you, and as @TerryB says 'Listen to the locals'. Personally I would rather be on the Inglés at this time of year, but I don't like the cold.
This is Puerto de Palo showing the snow poles marking the road, with the altitude.

Is this picture of Puerto de Palo taken in July?

 

[Tia Valeria]

Is this picture of Puerto de Palo taken in July?

No mid May . The next time we walked over together it was like this - also in May but earlier in the month - when we could see this view from the top.

 

[the euro walker]

I wish you all well and hope you have a wonderful experience. However, I think I would be more hesitant and cautious than you appear to be. Do your mum and partner have experience of long-distance walking on other routes in winter? To walk the complete Camino Primitivo in 10 days means an average of about 32km per day, much of it long steep climbs and descents. Several high exposed hilltops along the way. There is also the possibility of severe weather in late March. Snow and ice would make parts of the route very hazardous. While I admire your optimism and enthusiasm I cannot agree that "Anyone can do it." Please be prepared to change your plans if you or your companions find conditions on the ground more challenging than you expect.

Hi Bradypus,

Thank you for your post and I take on board all you said! You are absolutely right and I do worry about all the things you mentioned. We will be actually walking 12 days although 1st day walk and the last day walk will be shorter. I worked out all distances (taking into the account mountains) and would like to believe that it will be manageable. Only once we will have to push it to 34. Based on experience, around 30km a day is manageable. I do understand the cold and wet issue but actually I prefer walking when it is cooler. I walked the whole Francese from SJPdP in 28 days in June and noticed that I walked better when it was cooler. As for my mum and partner, yes, they have not done Caminos before but they are considerably fit and very adventurous. But I do worry about them as well as I do worry that the weather may be an issue. However we are all geared up for the cold rather than warm. On general, yes, we will be careful and I accept that we may have to change plans on few occasions. Well, we will find out soon! It may as well turn out that the whole idea is absolutely bonkers and Primitivo in March is not walk-able.! But this is why I wan to do it. There is not enough about it on internet for people to read and take a view, which is what frustrated me at start. The only way to find out is for someone to walk it and write about it. This is why I started this thread and I am glad you took an interest!!! We will be careful and do follow me....and keep fingers crossed for good weather for us! Thank you!

Karolina

 

[Bradypus]

Will be watching with interest to hear how it goes for you.

All the best!

 

[Tia Valeria]

Even if you find it is not walkable please post the fact here. Others have started threads about 'winter walking' in the past and have presumably not been able to walk through and have just quietly disappeared from the forum. That IMO is why there is so little about walking at this time of year. Go well and go safely.

 

[Roger Andout]

Good girl Karolina,

I'll be watching closely your pilgrim's progress as I hope to do the Primit in mid April. I'd "fear" rain more than snow, but that because I'd rather be cold than wet.

Go safely/

 

[unadara]

I also want to walk the Primitivo this year and earlier rather than later, however I totally respect the changes that March can bring to a Mountain route, I walked the Norte in April and got very wet. I too love colder conditions, there can be no comparison between a Camino Frances and a Mountain route. The Frances is relatively safe no matter what the weather (if you avoid the Mountain routes). I don't think I can do a 30km day on "hills".? I am going to keep reading advice here and may try early May depending on forecasts. A Portugese route is perfect for March and short enough also. (I want to do this also)...Buen Camino, be safe above all else.

 

[the euro walker]

Even if you find it is not walkable please post the fact here. Others have started threads about 'winter walking' in the past and have presumably not been able to walk through and have just quietly disappeared from the forum. That IMO is why there is so little about walking at this time of year. Go well and go safely.

Hi,
Thank you so much for taking interest! I will do! Definitely! I remain optimistic and believe we will do it but.....I accept that anything can happen! 3 days to go!!!! Really excited!.....and nervous:/

Karolina

 

[Gerry Sinclair]

Big thanks to all for the advice, resources, recommendations & cautions for the Salvador and Primitivo. It is not falling on deaf ears.
Buen Camino!!
Gerry

 

[formysons]

What do you think of the Primitivo or Norte in September, 72yo female solo, will it be safe, what will the weather be like, I know it is not easy to predict weather but maybe someone has already walked it in September? Also, will there be enough albergues open to keep my daily distances to a maximum of 20km?

 

[Tia Valeria]

There are a couple of places where the distances are longer. It is easy to check out Gronze for both distances and accommodation and then maybe do what we did to shorten the stages. See the blog Camino 2012 listed below my posts for our daily stages .

 

[formysons]

Thank you, I will read your blog, the more info I can get the easier it will be for me to decide which camino to do.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Thank you, I will read your blog, the more info I can get the easier it will be for me to decide which camino to do.

Note that the Primitivo blog has been turned round so you can read from top to bottom from page 1 forward instead of it starting with the final post. We hope it makes it easier to follow in sequence.

 

[Coppernob]

Buen camino! Please keep us posted, I start from Oviedo on 10 May and I would love to follow your journey.

I will be following, too, at the end of may and in to June: want to take it slowly and see things on the way.
It looks possible I'll be solo as my walking companion is probably not well enough so it's good to know there'll be others to meet along the way as it's not the most popular route which is why we want to do it.
Buen camino.
Claire

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Note that the Primitivo blog has been turned round so you can read from top to bottom from page 1 forward instead of it starting with the final post. We hope it makes it easier to follow in sequence.

Tia, I just visited your blog and have a question regarding the section from the Grandas Hotel to Grandas itself. I was going to go through the marked Camino but the locals said it was not advisable, being a woman alone, etc., etc. So I walked the road like you did. Do you know if the marked way is still being used, or if locals may be exagerating? Because the curves on the road are such that it is not very safe on the road. Thank you.

 

[Tia Valeria]

@Anemone del Camino - We looked at the 'marked route' but it was badly overgrown and that was in 2012. Terry also walked the road in 2009. The locals will be right that it is not fit to walk. I agree that the road needs care and we were prepared to step into the side at any time. This was the road where we walked with our reflective jackets on and listened carefully at the bends for oncoming traffic. We are going to have to drive down it later in the year and I expect to hoot at every blind bend for the benefit of any pilgrims who are walking in anything except single file.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

@Anemone del Camino - We looked at the 'marked route' but it was badly overgrown and that was in 2012. Terry also walked the road in 2009. The locals will be right that it is not fit to walk. I agree that the road needs care and we were prepared to step into the side at any time. This was the road where we walked with our reflective jackets on and listened carefully at the bends for oncoming traffic. We are going to have to drive down it later in the year and I expect to hoot at every blind bend for the benefit of any pilgrims who are walking in anything except single file.

Those pilgrims walking that road will thank you.

 

[peregrina2000]

Tia, I just visited your blog and have a question regarding the section from the Grandas Hotel to Grandas itself. I was going to go through the marked Camino but the locals said it was not advisable, being a woman alone, etc., etc. So I walked the road like you did. Do you know if the marked way is still being used, or if locals may be exagerating? Because the curves on the road are such that it is not very safe on the road. Thank you.

Hi, Anemone, I've taken that off-road part twice, always walking alone, and never had a problem, once in Oct., once in June. I don't remember any bad stretches of overgrowth, but that may be seasonal and depend on whether people have gotten out to chop down the weeds. I was very glad to get off that curvy road from the hotel up to Grandas, that in my view was much more difficult and anxiety-producing than the path.

I've checked out a few GPS tracks, and they all show the same route, some as recent as July of last year. http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=10240814 There are about 3km on the road from the Hotel to the turn-off, and then the last 3 off-road kms are very close to the road, just up a little higher.

I hope to be back there again in July, so I'll give an update then if all goes well. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Hi, Anemone, I've taken that off-road part twice, always walking alone, and never had a problem, once in Oct., once in June. I don't remember any bad stretches of overgrowth, but that may be seasonal and depend on whether people have gotten out to chop down the weeds. I was very glad to get off that curvy road from the hotel up to Grandas, that in my view was much more difficult and anxiety-producing than the path.

I've checked out a few GPS tracks, and they all show the same route, some as recent as July of last year. http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=10240814 There are about 3km on the road from the Hotel to the turn-off, and then the last 3 off-road kms are very close to the road, just up a little higher.

I hope to be back there again in July, so I'll give an update then if all goes well. Buen camino, Laurie

Thank you Laurie. This was just after Denise went missing and all the girls at the albergue were saying we were nuts to walk such remote locations, and for the fisrt time I got nervousy amd took the route. I am happy to hear from you and to know that it would have been ok. It gives me confidence for other routes.

 

[the euro walker]

Hello Everyone,

I am 33 and I walked Camino Francese and Camino Finisterre in June 2015. It was my first long distant walk and my first Camino. All on my own. I was scared of the unknown and very anxious. But I did it and only regret that I did not do this earlier in my life. Since the return just over 8 months ago I simply can not get that experience out of my head. I think of it everyday. I dream of it. I keep on looking through my pictures and read my diary. The best thing I have ever done in my life.

At the end of February 2016, just under 8 months after my first Camino I thought: "that is it, I can not wait any longer! I need to go again". The Easter break is my earliest opportunity. Yes, lets do it then, I thought. Lets walk to Santiago for Easter! Yes! So, just couple of weeks ago I decided that this time I would walk the Camino Primitivo. The only walk I can do in its entity within 2 week break. At start I thought that I have to little time to prepare but then, well, I am already kind of geared up anyway. I figured out transfers, daily distances, stocked up in warmer clothes. Yes, I am going. But....mid March. Bit bonkers? Yeah....a bit. But no, I am going. Then I started researching in more detail. Are the albergues going to be open? Is it going to be really cold? Rainy? Can I actually do it. Surprisingly there is very little advice in the books and on-line about doing Primitivo in March. Well, apart from the ones that tell you not to do it in March. But I am not easily put off. I spent lots of time putting the whole thing together and have gone from scared to excited. Now the flights are booked and there is no turning back. I am due to fly out to Asturias in 8 days time on the morning of the 16th March. I will start walking from Oviedo the same day. I will be on a tight schedule. No rest days. I must make it for Easter and of course my return flight on 29th March.

There are so many unanswered questions and lack of information makes me a bit uncomfortable. Will I actually do it? We will find out soon! All I know, it will not be easy....it will be really special!

I will keep you posted on the progress. Hopefully it will be useful to anyone who would like or can only do it in the colder months of a year.

Ps. If there is anyone doing it now, March 2016, please do get in touch! I could do with some tips!

Ps 2. My mum and my partner insisted on going with me too. They have not done any Caminos before. I warned them of the challenges but they wanted to go with me regardless. I am happy they trust my experience so far and are ready for it. I have my worries in that respect but believe they can do it. Anyone can do it. It will be great!

Buen Camino!
Karolina

Hello Everyone,

So, here it starts. It is now 7.5 hours before we have to leave the house to the airport. We are flying from London Stansted to Asturias. Then we are taking a bus to Oviedo. There we will probably have something to eat and then.......we will start walking!!!!! Gosh, IT IS HAPPENING!!!! I can not possibly describe in words how anxious, worried and at the same time excited I am!!! I keep on thinking whether I have everything but I think I do. Money, passport, waterproofs and poncho are the most important. It is quite stressful at the moment as I am also trying to think of personal affairs, the house, the dog etc. But all in hand.....I think. Anyway, can not do much more now. The time to go has come. Will we do it? What the weather is going to be like? Are my companions going to manage? Do not know whether I am going to fall asleep tonight! Well, I will find out everything very soon! So, lets do it, lets find out whether Camino Primitivo is walkable in the middle of March!!!

Buen Camino!
Karolina

 

[peregrina2000]

Hello Everyone,

So, here it starts. It is now 7.5 hours before we have to leave the house to the airport. We are flying from London Stansted to Asturias. Then we are taking a bus to Oviedo. There we will probably have something to eat and then.......we will start walking!!!!! Gosh, IT IS HAPPENING!!!! I can not possibly describe in words how anxious, worried and at the same time excited I am!!! I keep on thinking whether I have everything but I think I do. Money, passport, waterproofs and poncho are the most important. It is quite stressful at the moment as I am also trying to think of personal affairs, the house, the dog etc. But all in hand.....I think. Anyway, can not do much more now. The time to go has come. Will we do it? What the weather is going to be like? Are my companions going to manage? Do not know whether I am going to fall asleep tonight! Well, I will find out everything very soon! So, lets do it, lets find out whether Camino Primitivo is walkable in the middle of March!!!

Buen Camino!
Karolina

Hi, Karolina, So many people reading this will be able to understand your emotional state right now! No matter how many times you walk a camino, this pre-walking anxiety seems to be inevitable. Wishing you a wonderful camino, please let us know how it goes for you. Hopefully, I'll be following in your footsteps in June. Wishing you a wonderful camino, Laurie

 

[ParistoCapeCod]

So excited for you @the euro walker and family! As you already know, the Camino is not devoid of spots to buy anything but your passport, so ultreia e suseia! I will be there four weeks from Friday with my 12 year old son, so following with great interest. Walk with great joy! Lisa and TJ

A little walking music

 

[timr]

Wishing you every blessing @the euro walker walker
Looking forward to hearing how you get on. Will be following you at the end of April.
Tim

 

[Daria K.]

Hi everyone, so I am heading to Oviedo tonight and will start walking tomorrow (21st of March).
I am also alone on my way and very looking forward to it! If anybody should be there at the same time please let me know, I should get to Santiago on the 30th of March.
Best, Daria

 

[ParistoCapeCod]

Anyone know how @the euro walker is doing?

 

[teamore]

Hi everyone, friend from Taiwan.
Same question as ParistocapeCod had, anyone know the story of @the euro walker walk? Also planning to do the primitivo from the last week of March this year, it would be much appreciated to read the experiences for this route at this time of year
Buen Camino!

 

[jsalt]

Hi everyone, friend from Taiwan.
Same question as ParistocapeCod had, anyone know the story of @the euro walker walk? Also planning to do the primitivo from the last week of March this year, it would be much appreciated to read the experiences for this route at this time of year
Buen Camino!

Hi, sadly Karolina is another poster who has never come back after her last post to tell us how her camino went (if at all). She was last seen here on 19 April 2016, so presumably she returned home safely.

I suggest you look at current threads in the Camino Primitivo sub-forum for the latest info.
Jill