The Cathar Trail.

[wayfarer]

While traveling from Perpignon Airport the other day a saw an Irish guy with backpack and hiking poles and carrying a Camino bag, so I asked him when he did his Camino and where was he going to walk in this area. He told me he was going to walk the Cathar Trail, about 250 k long over the next ten days. I had driven that area in the camper some years ago but did not know of the trail. It looks and sounds beautiful, two long days to start and then not so bad. Knowing a little of the area I would say a bit of climbing too. Unfortunately I did not get contact details so I won't know how he did.
http://www.creme-de-languedoc.com/Languedoc/activities/sentier-cathar-trail.php
http://www.audetourisme.com/en/tools/the-cathar-trail.php

 

[mspath]

For more about the Cathars also known as the Albigensians, and their vibrant/violent history in the south of France mainly during the 12th and 13th centuries see
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catharism
and
http://www.cathar.info/

 

[pilgrim b]

Its lovely country round there Pat we spent a week walking on different trails in the area a few years ago now. Had a cottage in Narbonne walked around Minerve Languedovc area also the canal walk from Beziers to Colombiers. Wish I had known about this trail at the time.

 

[Felipe]

There is a a sequel of this way, up to Berga, the other side of the Pyrenees, called "Le Chemin des Bonshommes" (the "good people", as the cathars called themselves). Supposedly it is the way these poor fellows followed to escape from the Inquisition and hide in remote mountain valleys. As a trek, it seems very scenic, but pretty tough.
I guess that, besides its possible historic and spiritual values, these kind of initiatives are marketing campaigns from some city councils trying to get a profit from tourism -and nothing against that, they could be a good thing for everybody.
If you are looking for new, interesting paths, you can see the jacobean route from Bavaria to Tyrol (sorry, info only in German). Well organized, with signposts, list of hostels (not albergues) a glossy, downloadable brochure, even a credencial you can print out. It is an initiative from many city councils, with the support of European funds. I can't imagine a reason why a pilgrim going to Compostela would have traveled transversely and crossed a steep mountain (it could have been more logic, on the other side, if Rome was the intended destiny). But maybe some people in the forum know better. And it looks amazing, really.

 

[Kanga]

We considered this walk a few years ago but decided it was too tough for us. We subsequently crossed it a few times, high up in the mountains, when we hired a car in Pau after walking the Canal du Midi. I think it would be a lovely, but very solitary, walk. Fascinating history. I love that the Cathars considered women and men equals. Revolutionary for the time.

 

[David]

I have always been fascinated by the Cathars. Les Bonne hommes or bonshommes, although it translates as 'the good men' actually meant 'the Good Christians' in that context at the time. The Cathars were (then) a modern version of Manachaeism, the constant thorn in the side of Catholic Christianity, which still exists today in a number of forms.

They were reincarnationist and their foundation belief was that there were two Gods - the lesser evil god of the Old Testament, who created the world and trapped spirits of light (us) within matter and the True Good God, the one Jesus prayed to. That when Jesus spoke of 'the prince of this world' he was referring to the lesser Jehovah god. They read only John in the New Testament and there were two levels of being Cathars - the lower level where one believed in what was taught but lived an 'in the world' normal life, and the higher level, les BonneHommes, les Parfaits - the perfect ones - equivalent to priests - who were vegetarian and were supposed to renounce all sensual desires in this world, though still moving within it, so that when their bodies died they would not be reincarnated again into base matter but their spirit of light, their fragment of angel, would return to the Godhead, the One.

Some years before the military attacks, the genocide, there were a series of trials for heresy of the villagers of Montaillou, up in the Pyrennees, and in one of those extraordinary quirks of history all the records of those trials survived. If you can find a copy of Montaillou by Emmanuel le Roy Ladurie you can read the actual words of Cathars - though they didn't name themselves Cathars of course. Absolutely fascinating look into medieval life ... of interest? instead of saying "we had sex" they would say "we mingled our bodies", which I rather like. Their sense of gender equality doesn't equate to our modern conception but both genders were free to work and change jobs, to freely choose lovers and marry whom they wished (as long as they weren't aristocrats of course!), to work for themselves and own businesses and so on.

There was a common belief amongst some people in the 60's, in the UK, that the Cathars had been reincarnating since the late 40's and were finding each other. Because I had an attachment to Portchester castle at that time and had a particular experience there some of them thought that I was one of them too. Who knows.

I would quite like to do that Camino I think.

 

[William Garza]

I have always been fascinated by the Cathars. Les Bonne hommes or bonshommes, although it translates as 'the good men' actually meant 'the Good Christians' in that context at the time. The Cathars were (then) a modern version of Manachaeism, the constant thorn in the side of Catholic Christianity, which still exists today in a number of forms.

They were reincarnationist and their foundation belief was that there were two Gods - the lesser evil god of the Old Testament, who created the world and trapped spirits of light within matter (us) and the True Good God, the one Jesus prayed to. That when Jesus spoke of 'the prince of this world' he was referring to the lesser Jehovah god. They read only John in the New Testament and there were two levels of being Cathars - the lower level where one believed in what was taught but lived an 'in the world' normal life, and the higher level, les BonneHommes, les Parfaits - the perfect ones - equivalent to priests - who were vegetarian and were supposed to renounce all sensual desires in this world, though still moving within it, so that when their bodies died they would not be reincarnated again into base matter but their spirit of light, their fragment of angel, would return to the Godhead, the One.

Some years before the military attacks, the genocide, there were a series of trials for heresy of the villagers of Montaillou, up in the Pyrennees, and in one of those extraordinary quirks of history all the records of those trials survived. If you can find a copy of Montaillou by Emmanuel le Roy Ladurie you can read the actual words of Cathars - though they didn't name themselves Cathars of course. Absolutely fascinating look into medieval life ... of interest? instead of saying "we had sex" they would say "we mingled our bodies", which I rather like. Their sense of gender equality doesn't equate to our modern conception but both genders were free to work and change jobs, to freely choose lovers and marry whom they wished (as long as they weren't aristocrats of course!), to work for themselves and own businesses and so on.

There was a common belief amongst some people in the 60's, in the UK, that the Cathars had been reincarnating since the late 40's and were finding each other. Because I had an attachment to Portchester castle at that time and had a particular experience there some of them thought that I was one of them too. Who knows.

I would quite like to do that Camino I think.

Thanks for the info!

 

[Magnara]

Thanks for the info!

Wow, a Cathar Trail! After we walked Le Puy to SJPP in May/June this year, we hired a car and toured in that area for a few weeks. It is truly lovely country and the history, as people have said, is quite fascinating. I would highly recommend doing that walk ( and it has got my imagination going, too). Yes, probably quite challenging in parts, hilly etc, but you get fitter as you go along with pilgrimages, and the views along the valleys are beautiful.
Maggie Ramsay
(The Italian Camino - Amazon)

 

[wayfarer]

I have always been fascinated by the Cathars. Les Bonne hommes or bonshommes, although it translates as 'the good men' actually meant 'the Good Christians' in that context at the time. The Cathars were (then) a modern version of Manachaeism, the constant thorn in the side of Catholic Christianity, which still exists today in a number of forms.

They were reincarnationist and their foundation belief was that there were two Gods - the lesser evil god of the Old Testament, who created the world and trapped spirits of light (us) within matter and the True Good God, the one Jesus prayed to. That when Jesus spoke of 'the prince of this world' he was referring to the lesser Jehovah god. They read only John in the New Testament and there were two levels of being Cathars - the lower level where one believed in what was taught but lived an 'in the world' normal life, and the higher level, les BonneHommes, les Parfaits - the perfect ones - equivalent to priests - who were vegetarian and were supposed to renounce all sensual desires in this world, though still moving within it, so that when their bodies died they would not be reincarnated again into base matter but their spirit of light, their fragment of angel, would return to the Godhead, the One.

Some years before the military attacks, the genocide, there were a series of trials for heresy of the villagers of Montaillou, up in the Pyrennees, and in one of those extraordinary quirks of history all the records of those trials survived. If you can find a copy of Montaillou by Emmanuel le Roy Ladurie you can read the actual words of Cathars - though they didn't name themselves Cathars of course. Absolutely fascinating look into medieval life ... of interest? instead of saying "we had sex" they would say "we mingled our bodies", which I rather like. Their sense of gender equality doesn't equate to our modern conception but both genders were free to work and change jobs, to freely choose lovers and marry whom they wished (as long as they weren't aristocrats of course!), to work for themselves and own businesses and so on.

There was a common belief amongst some people in the 60's, in the UK, that the Cathars had been reincarnating since the late 40's and were finding each other. Because I had an attachment to Portchester castle at that time and had a particular experience there some of them thought that I was one of them too. Who knows.

I would quite like to do that Camino I think.

Its strange David but I became facinated with them too after first reading about them, it seemed they practiced what they preached which made them very popular with the poor but not so much with the Church of the time.

 

[julie]

Using the Cicerone Guide by Alan Mattingly, a couple of friends and I walked the Sentier Cathare in 2009. As per this guidebook, we took 12 days to walk the 250km from Port-la-Nouvelle to Foix. During this time, we met only one other person walking the route as we were though we did meet others who were doing some sections of it as a supported walk.

The scenery is absolutely stunning but only for those who enjoy hills (big ones!). After reasonably strenuous walking all day, one has to climb even further to visit the Cathar castles which are built in seemingly impossible positions. For the most part, we did these visits pack-free as the visitors' centre at each one was happy for us to leave our packs behind.

For those who are tempted but think the route might be too difficult, I will add that my friends and are all of a small build, carried backpacks (albeit lightweight as if we were on the Camino) and were at that time aged in our late 50s. We are keen to do the Chemin des Bonshommes as well but other routes keep coming to the top of the list ahead of it.

Would I do the Sentier Cathare again? You bet! But not alone. It could have changed since 2009 but, in my experience, some of the route is through quite remote areas and it could be a long wait for assistance if something should go amiss.

 

[VNwalking]

Bumping this tread, too, out of sheer fascination. I have often wondered if there is still knowledge of the Cathar routes over the mountains - and now I know!
As David says, one of the best history books around is Montaillou by Emmanuel Le Roy Ladurie, a wonderful work of social history about the Albigensians in one village, gleaned from the records of the inquisition. It was written decades ago, but has aged very well. It is also deeply sad - a million people died in the Inquisition, for no good reason.

Montaillou: Cathars and Catholics in a French Village 1294-1324: Amazon.co.uk: Ladurie, Emmanuel Le Roy, Bray, Barbara: 9780140137002: Books

Buy Montaillou: Cathars and Catholics in a French Village 1294-1324 New Ed by Ladurie, Emmanuel Le Roy, Bray, Barbara (ISBN: 9780140137002) from Amazon's Book Store. Everyday low prices and free delivery on eligible orders.

www.amazon.co.uk

 

[Saint Mike II]

Hola @David As usual brother, you continue to surprise and educate me. I might have to try to track down that book. Is it available in English (my somewhat very limited schoolboy French not up to standard). Cheers

 

[VNwalking]

Is it available in English (my somewhat very limited schoolboy French not up to standard).

Click the link in my post above, Mike. Fantastic book!

 

[JLWV]

While traveling from Perpignon Airport the other day a saw an Irish guy with backpack and hiking poles and carrying a Camino bag, so I asked him when he did his Camino and where was he going to walk in this area. He told me he was going to walk the Cathar Trail, about 250 k long over the next ten days. I had driven that area in the camper some years ago but did not know of the trail. It looks and sounds beautiful, two long days to start and then not so bad. Knowing a little of the area I would say a bit of climbing too. Unfortunately I did not get contact details so I won't know how he did.
http://www.creme-de-languedoc.com/Languedoc/activities/sentier-cathar-trail.php
http://www.audetourisme.com/en/tools/the-cathar-trail.php

The trail you name is well described at http://www.lesentiercathare.com
It is french, and GR367
There are two others, transpirenean.

 

[wayfarer]

The trail you name is well described at http://www.lesentiercathare.com
It is french, and GR367
There are two others, transpirenean.View attachment 64040

Thank you.

 

[MM HILL]

Want to walk this in Sept. 2020. The English guidebook is discontinued. Found many French websites with good information... wondering if anyone has walked this trail lately that I can ask questions?

 

[NorthernLight]

The book (Emmanuel Le Roy Ladurie et al,
Montaillou: Cathars and Catholics in a French Village 1294-1324) seems available at a number of libraries. Search for the name on Worldcat - a library search site - for a library with a copy near you. Those closest to me are all university libraries, but still.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Boy, am I "off track"...Pun intended! I just realized I've "liked" a thread post from 2014! This is all too much info for me as I scrolled down...I'll move on to view other threads. I loved the Le Puy route and I'd walk that one again in a heartbeat!

 

[BombayBill]

Want to walk this in Sept. 2020. The English guidebook is discontinued. Found many French websites with good information... wondering if anyone has walked this trail lately that I can ask questions?

Did you walk this? Thoughts? I’m thinking of starting on this and then connecting to Camino Piemont to SJPP.

 

[MM HILL]

Did you walk this? Thoughts? I’m thinking of starting on this and then connecting to Camino Piemont to SJPP.

No, I didn’t. But I walked the Piemont to SJPDP. (with slight variation, that we went over Somport Pass and connected to Spanish Aragon Camino. The Piedmont Camino is very scenic, more physically challenging than Le Puy Camino (also walked this from Le Puy to SJPDP). Personally I prefer Le Puy Camino because I the walk takes you through some amazing towns, more so than Piemont. That said, Piemont offers more solitude..

 

[BombayBill]

No, I didn’t. But I walked the Piemont to SJPDP. (with slight variation, that we went over Somport Pass and connected to Spanish Aragon Camino. The Piedmont Camino is very scenic, more physically challenging than Le Puy Camino (also walked this from Le Puy to SJPDP). Personally I prefer Le Puy Camino because I the walk takes you through some amazing towns, more so than Piemont. That said, Piemont offers more solitude..

My idea was to avoid the first few days out of Narbonne as I’d heard it was the least interesting. I would use the Cathar to Pamier. Where did you start and what did you think of the first 10 days from Narbonne?

 

[Former member 99290]

Hi @BombayBill due to lack of time, we are starting the Piemont in Carcassone rather than Narbonne. On 1 April. We’ve walked both the Le Puy and the Arles / Aragones. I expect the Piemont will be even quieter than the Arles Way. But we like the quiet routes - makes meeting other pilgrims all the more special. Hope we meet a few.

 

[Former member 49149]

I have just found a read online copy: https://gnosis.study/library/Другие...d Catholics in a French Village 1294-1324.pdf
if the gobbledegook above does not work, just input the book title and gnosis study.
It is saved for me to read at my leisure. Thanks for all the info. Sounds intriguing. One phrase among the many valuable ones posted by you all: ...for no good reason. Such is who we are, who we have become. Come back, Ozymandias. forgive our foolish memories and help us to look with care at even those who say differently!

 

[wayfarer]

Bumping this tread, too, out of sheer fascination. I have often wondered if there is still knowledge of the Cathar routes over the mountains - and now I know!
As David says, one of the best history books around is Montaillou by Emmanuel Le Roy Ladurie, a wonderful work of social history about the Albigensians in one village, gleaned from the records of the inquisition. It was written decades ago, but has aged very well. It is also deeply sad - a million people died in the Inquisition, for no good reason.

Montaillou: Cathars and Catholics in a French Village 1294-1324: Amazon.co.uk: Ladurie, Emmanuel Le Roy, Bray, Barbara: 9780140137002: Books

Buy Montaillou: Cathars and Catholics in a French Village 1294-1324 New Ed by Ladurie, Emmanuel Le Roy, Bray, Barbara (ISBN: 9780140137002) from Amazon's Book Store. Everyday low prices and free delivery on eligible orders.

www.amazon.co.uk

Thank you for the link VN, I've downloaded it and will read it over the coming weeks. Its a fascinating bit of history.

 

[Annette london]

While traveling from Perpignon Airport the other day a saw an Irish guy with backpack and hiking poles and carrying a Camino bag, so I asked him when he did his Camino and where was he going to walk in this area. He told me he was going to walk the Cathar Trail, about 250 k long over the next ten days. I had driven that area in the camper some years ago but did not know of the trail. It looks and sounds beautiful, two long days to start and then not so bad. Knowing a little of the area I would say a bit of climbing too. Unfortunately I did not get contact details so I won't know how he did.
http://www.creme-de-languedoc.com/Languedoc/activities/sentier-cathar-trail.php
http://www.audetourisme.com/en/tools/the-cathar-trail.php

We walked The Cathar Trail in 2014 and it is indeed a fascinating way albeit a sad way
The Cathar sect built their castles on high ground so it was a hard trail at times too
the last castle we visited was Montsegur. Where pope Innocent burnt hundreds of Cathars alive.
There is a monument at the base of the castle to those burnt
numerous books have been written on the history of the Cathars
I found 3 pictures on the internet of Montsegur castle and the monument

edit..Cicerone press has an informative book on the wal, giving lots of information re accommodation and stages

 

[Annette london]

Want to walk this in Sept. 2020. The English guidebook is discontinued. Found many French websites with good information... wondering if anyone has walked this trail lately that I can ask questions?

Hi MM HILL,
I just checked Cicerone press and they have just published the latest version of the Cathar Way

 

[BombayBill]

Hi MM HILL,
I just checked Cicerone press and they have just published the latest version of the Cathar Way

And I just read it last night. Sounds terrific.

 

[Paladina]

Bumping this tread, too, out of sheer fascination. I have often wondered if there is still knowledge of the Cathar routes over the mountains - and now I know! As David says, one of the best history books around is Montaillou by Emmanuel Le Roy Ladurie, a wonderful work of social history about the Albigensians in one village, gleaned from the records of the inquisition. It was written decades ago, but has aged very well. It is also deeply sad - a million people died in the Inquisition, for no good reason.

Montaillou: Cathars and Catholics in a French Village 1294-1324: Amazon.co.uk: Ladurie, Emmanuel Le Roy, Bray, Barbara: 9780140137002: Books

Buy Montaillou: Cathars and Catholics in a French Village 1294-1324 New Ed by Ladurie, Emmanuel Le Roy, Bray, Barbara (ISBN: 9780140137002) from Amazon's Book Store. Everyday low prices and free delivery on eligible orders.

www.amazon.co.uk

Thank you for the link VN, I've downloaded it and will read it over the coming weeks. Its a fascinating bit of history.

I haven’t walked the walk, but I have talked — and written — the Cathar talk, citing
Le Roy Ladurie’s Montaillou in an undergraduate medieval history essay. I still recall the professor’s dismissive response to my allegedly uncritical use of this ‘fanciful’, unreliable and unapproved historical source. So much for popular (and very readable) history!