The good, the bad & the ugly

[The Austrian]

First and foremost a big shout out to Ivar the Amazing, not only for this helpful forum, but also for his luggage service in Santiago. My suitcase was stored with Ivar for over 45 days, safe and affordable. Thank you. Congratulations on the new baby.

I've let some time pass before posting, so I'd forget most of the bad & ugly parts....with success. If you want to know and find out what to avoid or be careful of regardless, you will have to pm me for details.
I am going to write about the good.

(Edit..political reference removed)
I did hardly any preparation in terms of route planning or anything really, short of reading that book by HAPE Kerkeling. Hardly a guide....My equipment was bought a couple of years ago when I originally planned the walk. This just seemed the perfect timing however, a 30+ day media black out for the news junkie I am, did me well.
There was an app on my phone, a good one, but since I am no techie, I just let the days and places happen as they did.

The very best experience for me was that crowd I ran with from Zubiri onwards, a fantastic mix of people from Asia, Europe and the US. While I chose to walk mostly alone, it was great to meet up with some or all of them in the evenings, experiencing an amazing camarderie and invaluable helpfulness. While these friendships may seem fleeting and superficial to an outsider, if one puts some effort into staying in touch, I can see some bonds lasting long beyound your Camino experience. FB, Instagram are of course a big part of this today, makes it so much easier.

Since I really had no motive of walking aside testing myself, I quickly realized that I better come up with a reason or quit after a few days. So I decided to make it about food. And Gin & Tonics. And that is what made it into the single best experience for me. Of course the people I met and the times spent thinking was rewarding as well, but let me tell you, up your budget. Stay away from crappy Pilgrim's meals and enjoy what this region of Spain has to offer in terms of food and beverage.
You will not be disappointed. From a humble home made lentil soup in Foncebadon, to the single best Foie Gras Tapa in Pamplona, the regional varieties of Morcilla and some of the best beef around, it can be a culinary journey. It was for me.
Rioja wines and Europe's best Gin Tonic culture added to that amazing part of the hike.

Seceneries, meets & greets with locals along the way, some spirituality, contemplations, sight seeing, impressive architecture, all these belong in the good category as well. Tastes and priorities are different for everyone.

Albergues. I am going to list my personal favorite top three, but not far beyond that we are slipping into the bad and ugly part of my experience that I am trying to avoid publicly. Let's just say I was tested? And passed. Everyone has their own favorite place they stayed at, I am sure. Once more though, up your budget if you are a comfort creature like me. The reason why I won't complain about the crappy municipal places is simple, when you don't pay more than ten bucks, what in the world do you expect? Yes, I was disgusted more often than not in some of these places, but it is what it is. I got over it.

3. Albergue Parochial Granon. Between the setting and incredible hosts, amazing.
2. Albergue Santa Fe, Cardeñuela Riopico (Burgos) Of all the privately owned Albergues, a stand out.
1. Peacable Kingdom, Moratinos. Excellent option.

Honoray mention: The Parador. Hardly an Albergue, but go ahead and treat yourself in the end. You deserve it.

What else? Don;t overplan it, let it happen. Don;t overpack. We need only half the crap we are taking.
Pain and suffering? Let me tell you, the blisters only hurt until you get shin splints. Then you wish for blisters instead.

Here are some images from along my walk, a bit disjointed and out of sequence.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/camino-photos/albums/november-2016.270/

 

[Camino Chrissy]

First and foremost a big shout out to Ivar the Amazing, not only for this helpful forum, but also for his luggage service in Santiago. My suitcase was stored with Ivar for over 45 days, safe and affordable. Thank you. Congratulations on the new baby.

I've let some time pass before posting, so I'd forget most of the bad & ugly parts....with success. If you want to know and find out what to avoid or be careful of regardless, you will have to pm me for details.
I am going to write about the good.

I left for SJPdP the morning after the deplorables made their voices heard, shocked and dissapointed. I did hardly any preparation in terms of route planning or anything really, short of reading that book by HAPE Kerkeling. Hardly a guide....My equipment was bought a couple of years ago when I originally planned the walk. This just seemed the perfect timing however, a 30+ day media black out for the news junkie I am, did me well.
There was an app on my phone, a good one, but since I am no techie, I just let the days and places happen as they did.

The very best experience for me was that crowd I ran with from Zubiri onwards, a fantastic mix of people from Asia, Europe and the US. While I chose to walk mostly alone, it was great to meet up with some or all of them in the evenings, experiencing an amazing camarderie and invaluable helpfulness. While these friendships may seem fleeting and superficial to an outsider, if one puts some effort into staying in touch, I can see some bonds lasting long beyound your Camino experience. FB, Instagram are of course a big part of this today, makes it so much easier.

Since I really had no motive of walking aside testing myself, I quickly realized that I better come up with a reason or quit after a few days. So I decided to make it about food. And Gin & Tonics. And that is what made it into the single best experience for me. Of course the people I met and the times spent thinking was rewarding as well, but let me tell you, up your budget. Stay away from crappy Pilgrim's meals and enjoy what this region of Spain has to offer in terms of food and beverage.
You will not be disappointed. From a humble home made lentil soup in Foncebadon, to the single best Foie Gras Tapa in Pamplona, the regional varieties of Morcilla and some of the best beef around, it can be a culinary journey. It was for me.
Rioja wines and Europe's best Gin Tonic culture added to that amazing part of the hike.

Seceneries, meets & greets with locals along the way, some spirituality, contemplations, sight seeing, impressive architecture, all these belong in the good category as well. Tastes and priorities are different for everyone.

Albergues. I am going to list my personal favorite top three, but not far beyond that we are slipping into the bad and ugly part of my experience that I am trying to avoid publicly. Let's just say I was tested? And passed. Everyone has their own favorite place they stayed at, I am sure. Once more though, up your budget if you are a comfort creature like me. The reason why I won't complain about the crappy municipal places is simple, when you don't pay more than ten bucks, what in the world do you expect? Yes, I was disgusted more often than not in some of these places, but it is what it is. I got over it.

3. Albergue Parochial Granon. Between the setting and incredible hosts, amazing.
2. Albergue Santa Fe, Cardeñuela Riopico (Burgos) Of all the privately owned Albergues, a stand out.
1. Peacable Kingdom, Moratinos. Excellent option.

Honoray mention: The Parador. Hardly an Albergue, but go ahead and treat yourself in the end. You deserve it.

What else? Don;t overplan it, let it happen. Don;t overpack. We need only half the crap we are taking.
Pain and suffering? Let me tell you, the blisters only hurt until you get shin splints. Then you wish for blisters instead.

Here are some images from along my walk, a bit disjointed and out of sequence.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/camino-photos/albums/november-2016.270/

I enjoyed your interesting post and I, too, met some amazing pilgrims on the Camino Frances route in 2015. I specifically have kept in touch quite often with two of them. We first met at Corazon Puro around the dinner table. Little did I know at the time we would become close friends upon our return home. We all hailed from the midwest region of the USA, and one of them suggested getting together for a "Camino mini reunion", which was planned three months later. We chose a drivable destination to meet, and had 3 days of hiking and sharing our Camino pictures on the hotel's rooms' tv's. We all brought various ingredients to make homemade tapas one night and of course we couldn't forget the Rioja wine!

We then added in another pilgrim who joined us on our last "mini", which has become an annual event. I unexpectedly met her on a hiking path along the Mississippi river. I got all "warm and fuzzy" seeing her up ahead cuz she reminded me of all the pilgrims I'd seen on the Camino two months earlier as she had on a good sized backpack and was using hiking poles. I stopped her and asked if she was in training for something. Imagine my surprise when she replied, "Yes, the Camino de Santiago in Spain." A quick exchange of email addresses provided the catalyst to include her in our next mini reunion!

 

[The Austrian]

That is amazing, what a coincidence really.

 

[grayland]

Please take a look at the forum rules concerning political remarks or discussions.
We have a strict policy of trying to keep the forum a politic free place to escape from the noise.

Thanks for helping with this.

 

[Ahhhs]

I wouldn't mind hearing about the "bad and ugly" parts too.

It's all part of the adventure...

 

[The Austrian]

It is indeed part of the experience. However my issues with bad & ugly may read like first world complaints more so than serious serious issues. Having been censored twice already just in this thread.....let me try to figure out how to pm directly.

 

[Kent Davis]

The Ugly part is your feet and the times when you feel they deserve priority attention over having a beer with the mates; you want to avoid this.
The Bad is when you become just as mentally fatigued as physically - this can lead to bad days; avoid isolation.

 

[tillyjones]

I am doing my second camino in May and I am afraid that I have neglected to consider the bad and the ugly and am in for a rude awakening.

I definitely recall a lot of misery with my feet, the heat, the bedbugs, the muscle cramps, the back ache, the hunger, etc., etc. for the first couple weeks. When I did posts along the way, people would say 'if it's so terrible, why don't you stop?' Ha. Once I got over the general conditioning part and figured out a routine, it was of course lovely. But I am concerned that I am going to start off again, and quickly be met with the same things and think 'uh...I can't do it again'

 

[Ahhhs]

You can do it. And you will do it.
But it's not all rainbows and unicorns.
Or as romantic as it sounds in the movies.
You will have mishaps and problems and aches and pains.
And both mental and physical fatigue.

Hearing about other people's challenges makes us all human and maybe we can even learn something.

And after all that there are those amazingly wonderful moments and spectacular days.
And you do figure it all out which is part of the challenge and reward.
In the end is it all worth it?
Absolutely.

Buen Camino

 

[jgpryde]

Thanks for the brief recap. I've recorded your albergue recommendations (though they'll probably be on everyone's first list now.)

re: bad and ugly - I think I'm mentally ready for some hardships. I keep thinking that whatever I encounter, it won't compare to the experiences of the early century pilgrims. I probably won't risk drinking poison spring water or fend off armed bandits. I'm just hoping there will be serviceable wi-fi access every night. (Perish the thought!!)

BC
-jgp

 

[freetobe]

First and foremost a big shout out to Ivar the Amazing, not only for this helpful forum, but also for his luggage service in Santiago. My suitcase was stored with Ivar for over 45 days, safe and affordable. Thank you. Congratulations on the new baby.

I've let some time pass before posting, so I'd forget most of the bad & ugly parts....with success. If you want to know and find out what to avoid or be careful of regardless, you will have to pm me for details.
I am going to write about the good.

(Edit..political reference removed)
I did hardly any preparation in terms of route planning or anything really, short of reading that book by HAPE Kerkeling. Hardly a guide....My equipment was bought a couple of years ago when I originally planned the walk. This just seemed the perfect timing however, a 30+ day media black out for the news junkie I am, did me well.
There was an app on my phone, a good one, but since I am no techie, I just let the days and places happen as they did.

The very best experience for me was that crowd I ran with from Zubiri onwards, a fantastic mix of people from Asia, Europe and the US. While I chose to walk mostly alone, it was great to meet up with some or all of them in the evenings, experiencing an amazing camarderie and invaluable helpfulness. While these friendships may seem fleeting and superficial to an outsider, if one puts some effort into staying in touch, I can see some bonds lasting long beyound your Camino experience. FB, Instagram are of course a big part of this today, makes it so much easier.

Since I really had no motive of walking aside testing myself, I quickly realized that I better come up with a reason or quit after a few days. So I decided to make it about food. And Gin & Tonics. And that is what made it into the single best experience for me. Of course the people I met and the times spent thinking was rewarding as well, but let me tell you, up your budget. Stay away from crappy Pilgrim's meals and enjoy what this region of Spain has to offer in terms of food and beverage.
You will not be disappointed. From a humble home made lentil soup in Foncebadon, to the single best Foie Gras Tapa in Pamplona, the regional varieties of Morcilla and some of the best beef around, it can be a culinary journey. It was for me.
Rioja wines and Europe's best Gin Tonic culture added to that amazing part of the hike.

Seceneries, meets & greets with locals along the way, some spirituality, contemplations, sight seeing, impressive architecture, all these belong in the good category as well. Tastes and priorities are different for everyone.

Albergues. I am going to list my personal favorite top three, but not far beyond that we are slipping into the bad and ugly part of my experience that I am trying to avoid publicly. Let's just say I was tested? And passed. Everyone has their own favorite place they stayed at, I am sure. Once more though, up your budget if you are a comfort creature like me. The reason why I won't complain about the crappy municipal places is simple, when you don't pay more than ten bucks, what in the world do you expect? Yes, I was disgusted more often than not in some of these places, but it is what it is. I got over it.

3. Albergue Parochial Granon. Between the setting and incredible hosts, amazing.
2. Albergue Santa Fe, Cardeñuela Riopico (Burgos) Of all the privately owned Albergues, a stand out.
1. Peacable Kingdom, Moratinos. Excellent option.

Honoray mention: The Parador. Hardly an Albergue, but go ahead and treat yourself in the end. You deserve it.

What else? Don;t overplan it, let it happen. Don;t overpack. We need only half the crap we are taking.
Pain and suffering? Let me tell you, the blisters only hurt until you get shin splints. Then you wish for blisters instead.

Here are some images from along my walk, a bit disjointed and out of sequence.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/camino-photos/albums/november-2016.270/

Enjoyed your post. Thank you. Did you travel in November and if so how were the temperatures. Did you need a sleeping bag.

 

[The Austrian]

Thanks for the brief recap. I've recorded your albergue recommendations (though they'll probably be on everyone's first list now.)

re: bad and ugly - I think I'm mentally ready for some hardships. I keep thinking that whatever I encounter, it won't compare to the experiences of the early century pilgrims. I probably won't risk drinking poison spring water or fend off armed bandits. I'm just hoping there will be serviceable wi-fi access every night. (Perish the thought!!)

BC
-jgp

Short of pain, it's really all first world challenges we face? Re.: spring water......I drank so much water from creeks and fountains, not once did I have an issue. Having taken too much Magnesium onthe other hand.......oh boy.

 

[The Austrian]

Thanks for the brief recap. I've recorded your albergue recommendations (though they'll probably be on everyone's first list now.)

re: bad and ugly - I think I'm mentally ready for some hardships. I keep thinking that whatever I encounter, it won't compare to the experiences of the early century pilgrims. I probably won't risk drinking poison spring water or fend off armed bandits. I'm just hoping there will be serviceable wi-fi access every night. (Perish the thought!!)

BC
-jgp

I had some qualms about my #1 choice, since they are so private and only offer four beds. #2 and #3 have plenty of room.

 

[The Austrian]

I am doing my second camino in May and I am afraid that I have neglected to consider the bad and the ugly and am in for a rude awakening.

I definitely recall a lot of misery with my feet, the heat, the bedbugs, the muscle cramps, the back ache, the hunger, etc., etc. for the first couple weeks. When I did posts along the way, people would say 'if it's so terrible, why don't you stop?' Ha. Once I got over the general conditioning part and figured out a routine, it was of course lovely. But I am concerned that I am going to start off again, and quickly be met with the same things and think 'uh...I can't do it again'

Despite my calorie intake in all the Tapas bars along the Camino, I lost 9 kg. Hungry mostly in the mornings, but during the day, I ate....and yes, feet were my biggest issue as well, Too much paved walking?

 

[The Austrian]

Enjoyed your post. Thank you. Did you travel in November and if so how were the temperatures. Did you need a sleeping bag.

November can go either way from the time I walked. One of our friends caught a cold in Leon and decided to stay behind for a three days. By the time he started walking, there was snow in the mountains. Plenty of it. His pictures on Instagram are AMAZING. I finished the trek in 28 days ( I don;t recommend such a rush) and out of those, it was raining 6 days. Mostly during the walk along the Mesetas.
Yes, I'd recommend a sleeping bag, mine came direct from China and it kept me warm in some of the Albergues in the middle of nowhere when I was the only guest. Yeah, I understand the stingyness fo rnot wanting to heat a whole dorm for one person, so the bag was invaluable. Really depends on when you wlk.

 

[MichaelC]

...but let me tell you, up your budget. Stay away from crappy Pilgrim's meals and enjoy what this region of Spain has to offer in terms of food and beverage. You will not be disappointed. From a humble home made lentil soup in Foncebadon, to the single best Foie Gras Tapa in Pamplona, the regional varieties of Morcilla and some of the best beef around, it can be a culinary journey. It was for me. Rioja wines and Europe's best Gin Tonic culture added to that amazing part of the hike.

Yes! I read so much on the forums about how to keep on a super-tight budget. And that's important, but there's no way I'm going to fly half way across the planet and not dive into Spanish cuisine!

How did you manage cocktail culture on the camino, though? I get the impression that most pilgrims are in bed by 10 pm, long before Spanish nightlife really starts.

 

[The Austrian]

Yes! I read so much on the forums about how to keep on a super-tight budget. And that's important, but there's no way I'm going to fly half way across the planet and not dive into Spanish cuisine!

How did you manage cocktail culture on the camino, though? I get the impression that most pilgrims are in bed by 10 pm, long before Spanish nightlife really starts.

Oh you will find plenty of Tapas Bars along the way that are hopping long before 10 pm. Imagine Sunday afternoons in larger cities, like Leon, huge crowds out and about......

 

[notion900]

@The Austrian I love your wit and wisdom! You are making me hungry for Pulpo, right now, and especially the waxy boiled potatoes it sits on. And sopa de lentejas. In my suburb of London we rejoice in having a totally genuine GALICIAN TAPAS BAR! I think I might need to go there right now!

 

[The Austrian]

@The Austrian I love your wit and wisdom! You are making me hungry for Pulpo, right now, and especially the waxy boiled potatoes it sits on. And sopa de lentejas. In my suburb of London we rejoice in having a totally genuine GALICIAN TAPAS BAR! I think I might need to go there right now!

I am very happy you enjoyed my dribbles. Enjoy that restaurant.

 

[notion900]

I am very happy you enjoyed my dribbles. Enjoy that restaurant.

If you are in Londres it's well worth a little trip to Zone 2 for.