The Meseta

[Arn]

I have gone out of my way, by bus and train, not to walk the Meseta.
I've read, heard and accepted the Meseta is long, boring and sufficiently flat that you can see from your starting point to where you will stop for the day.
Yes, it's long and where in past centuries it was known as the dry zone; the green fields this April are beautiful aided by both surface and subsurface aqueducts.
Boring...not so much. There are many historical churches, castles, and windmills, though I didn't see Don Quixote tilting at any.
Somewhat flat, come on it's a plateau, the main valleys are sectioned by sufficiently steep inclines to tax a pilgrim or two.
I've found time to relax my rush, contemplate my mood in thankful silence, and thank God I'm alive to enjoy all the Meseta has to offer.
Buen "Meseta" Camino,
Arn

 

[koknesis]

actually the Meseta was the most inspiring part of the last year camino walking. if I will be able to save a couple of days when walking La Senda/Aragones in coming August, I would love to walk from Castrojeriz to Sahagun again.

 

[lettinggo]

Hola

When I walked the Meseta a winter some years ago, the quietness and harsh nature presented itself to me a beauty and tranquility.
The small albergues along the way was indeed refugios that provided the needed shelter from nature.
It was the closest to nature I found myself along the Camino and it was an important part of my experience.

I think ones perception and experience about the Meseta can be connected to where one begins the Camino.
If one begins between St. Jean and Pampolona, then the Meseta will be a couple of weeks in and a both needed and welcomed stretch of walking without much ups and downs. The body is somewhat trained and I think many pilgrims do exceed themselves and the distances they can walk while on the Meseta.
Maybe the Meseta can be viewed as the super highway of walking as it is both flat and much of it is not on automobile roads

Buen Camino
Lettinggo

 

[Houlet]

I too enjoyed the Meseta and will walk it again next time.

 

[CaminoDebrita]

I have gone out of my way, by bus and train, not to walk the Meseta.
I've read, heard and accepted the Meseta is long, boring and sufficiently flat that you can see from your starting point to where you will stop for the day.
Yes, it's long and where in past centuries it was known as the dry zone; the green fields this April are beautiful aided by both surface and subsurface aqueducts.
Boring...not so much. There are many historical churches, castles, and windmills, though I didn't see Don Quixote tilting at any.
Somewhat flat, come on it's a plateau, the main valleys are sectioned by sufficiently steep inclines to tax a pilgrim or two.
I've found time to relax my rush, contemplate my mood in thankful silence, and thank God I'm alive to enjoy all the Meseta has to offer.
Buen "Meseta" Camino,
Arn

It is exciting to follow your journey, and vicariously experience what you are experiencing. I would give my toenails to be walking the meseta right now! I was considering sacrificing a little pinky, but I do play the piano...

I've also been following Edith's journey, and last night found me coaching her aloud what to do with her left foot. Seriously, I was NOT talking with her, but to her through the computer, as though she can divine what I'm thinking. I do believe I'll need to just send her a message via twitter later.

Buen "Meseta" Camino--and I'm so glad you are having a wonderful time.

DGH

 

[Suzanne S.]

@Arn ... I am inspired by your post. I am looking forward to the Meseta particularly. Buen Camino!

 

[grayland]

The Meseta has always been my favorite part of the Camino.
When I think of walking my first time or others...I always seem to bring to mind the Meseta.

Like the walk from SJPP to Roncesvalles....it suffers badly from bad reviews from a minority of folks. These reviews seem to be passed on and like myths soon seem to be repeated as facts. Poor Meseta....

The Napoleon Route is overblown in much the same way and the horror stories of "crossing the Pyrenees" begins to sound like a horror story....never mind the thousands doing it each week. Many in their late 70s and 80s. Many are severely overloaded.
They arrive in Roncesvalles with the pride of knowing that they can survive the rest of the way to Santiago.

 

[wayfarer]

I loved the Meseta as I did all parts of the Camino.
Buen Camino Arn.

 

[Arn]

@Arn ... I am inspired by your post. I am looking forward to the Meseta particularly. Buen Camino!

If I can change but one pilgrim's opinion of the Meseta, I consider my walk a success.
Arn

 

[CaminoDebrita]

I love the photographs of it--the "big sky" look to it..."The Long and Winding Road"

 

[Mark Lee]

The Meseta has always been my favorite part of the Camino.
When I think of walking my first time or others...I always seem to bring to mind the Meseta.

Like the walk from SJPP to Roncesvalles....it suffers badly from bad reviews from a minority of folks. These reviews seem to be passed on and like myths soon seem to be repeated as facts. Poor Meseta....

The Napoleon Route is overblown in much the same way and the horror stories of "crossing the Pyrenees" begins to sound like a horror story....never mind the thousands doing it each week. Many in their late 70s and 80s. Many are severely overloaded.
They arrive in Roncesvalles with the pride of knowing that they can survive the rest of the way to Santiago.

Yeah, why do they do that? Neither stretch is all that bad, and certainly not myth worthy. Tens of thousands walk both stretches every summer without a hitch or second thought.

 

[annelise]

I for one loved the Meseta. Had gotten the impression – before walking – that it would be flat, flat … and boring - but it was certainly not so. Lovely views, lovely high skies, lovely ambiance in flowers and surrounding fields. And certainly not always flat!

The only time I was a bit discouraged was the long haul along and beside the highway into Carrion de los Condes! Guess I was a bit tired at the time (being elderly). – Mind you, I walked in May/June when all the lovely flowers were out and vegetation was green, green.

annelise

 

[Arn]

I am sitting in the garden at the Peaceable Kingdom in Moratinos. The sky is whispy clear, Ruby the dog just nudged my arm on the way to the water barrel and I am content.

 

[Tincatinker]

Say Hi to the dogs for me. There is a true contentment to be found in that yard.

 

[domigee]

How lovely

 

[uniQ]

I think I may have been fortunate as when I walked I did not take a guide but only the maps. I walked mostly with Italians who I did not understand and therefore was unaware of the legends of the Meseta other than a few random rumblings from other pilgrims such as some twins who bought bikes to cycle through it. I nodded and smiled curiously but didn't think much of it.. until I arrived myself and it was too late. It's really part of the experience and I found myself grateful for the time to reflect on the journey so far, what may lay ahead and life in general.

 

[CaptBuddy]

I am sitting in the garden at the Peaceable Kingdom in Moratinos. The sky is whispy clear, Ruby the dog just nudged my arm on the way to the water barrel and I am content.

Oh, now you go too far, my friend. The rest of us will have a sour evening of jealousy.

 

[Peter Aulbury]

Oh, now you go too far, my friend. The rest of us will have a sour evening of jealousy.

I just found where Arn is sitting, Stage 18 of the Brierley Guide, 3.2km past Terradillos de los Templarios. Good on you Arn...enjoy the peaceful afternoon. I hope to start my 2nd camino Mid May. Buen Camino to you

 

[koknesis]

The Meseta is about half-way to Santiago, and in many aspects it also was a culmination of the pilgrimage for me. Perhaps many will disagree, that this should happen when reaching the Cathedral, however I felt rather descending after Leon. Anyway, Carrión de los Condes and Sahagun with beautiful churches and monasteries are real gems of the Camino Frances. When in Sahagun, do not forget to visit Iglesia de la Peregrina, where one can obtain a half-way certificate, by far the most elegant piece of evidence, that the camino was for real, while relaxing in pleasant coolness and enjoying church music.

 

[Houlet]

I had never heard of the halfway certifucate until now, maybe next time.

 

[Tincatinker]

The Meseta is about half-way to Santiago, and in many aspects it also was a culmination of the pilgrimage for me.
View attachment 17753

There is, or was for me also, something very special about the Meseta. I found space in which to think, without the distractions of cities, towns, navigation or even complex landscape. I was ready to think by the time I got there and the gods gave me silence for a change. There are some very special people and places scattered along that part of the path too. both doing that thing, existence, being there, that our temporal, temporary lives hardly allow for.

Buen Meseta Peregrinos

 

[Kennedy1]

I walked the Meseta in May 2013. I loved it. The peace and quiet when walking was magical. The spring flowers were out and the multi shades of green fields was breath taking. I wanted to walk the WHOLE camino not just the fun bits but in fact the whole way was all the fun bits. Looking forward to returning at some point in the future.

 

[VNwalking]

Totally love the Meseta...in all its guises. This month it had many faces for me...freezing rain on the alto before San Bol, balmy days after Frómista...but always there is the big Sky. As for where Arn was yesterday...a true slice of heaven on earth. Thank you to Reb and Paddy for creating it!

 

[ksam]

Nice to read this thread and see I wasn't the only one who loved the Meseta! In many ways I think it challenged me more and made me have to work a little harder. In the end I am very happy for that!

Watching the rain clouds coming across the fields, wondering how the path would meander and would we actually get rained on...just one of the great experiences of the Meseta.

Arn, looks like your having a wonderful trip again. Guess today was Sahagun and the Roman road after...ah the memories!

Buen Camino.

 

[Kathy F.]

Loved the Meseta. Green. Peaceful. The world at my feet. Wouldn't miss it for anything.
Take water.

 

[Bernard duffy]

I bypassed the Meseta last year but will def walk it this year,damn you all for brainwashing me !!!!!!!

 

[AlanB]

Truth is I didn't realise I was on the Meseta until I was on the Mesata. A beautiful stretch. Wear a hat though.

 

[Castilian]

The Meseta is about half-way to Santiago, and in many aspects it also was a culmination of the pilgrimage for me. Perhaps many will disagree, that this should happen when reaching the Cathedral, however I felt rather descending after Leon.

Your post reminded me that on the Iglesia de Santiago Apostol in Villafranca del Bierzo there's a Puerta del Perdón that it's opened on request when it's Año Santo (the years when July 25th is Sunday) where pilgrims with certified health issues that impede them to arrive to Santiago de Compostela can get the Jubilee without needing to arrive to Santiago de Compostela. More info on this link:

http://eldia.es/2009-12-31/sociedad...ranca-Leon-ofrece-jubileo-llegar-santiago.htm

 

[mspath]

Your post reminded me that on the Iglesia de Santiago Apostol in Villafranca del Bierzo there's a Puerta del Perdón that it's opened on request when it's Año Santo (the years when July 25th is Sunday) where pilgrims with certified health issues that impede them to arrive to Santiago de Compostela can get the Jubilee without needing to arrive to Santiago de Compostela. More info on this link:

http://eldia.es/2009-12-31/sociedad...ranca-Leon-ofrece-jubileo-llegar-santiago.htm

Also in Villafranca del Bierzo and taking its name from the nearby chapel door there is a wonderful hostal /restaurant called La Puerta del Perdon. The hostal is on the camino directly opposite the castle at Plaza de Prim, 4

The hostal has seven splendid well equipped rooms and offered heated comfort last December when the Albergue Ave Fenix was bitter cold. Another treat is the daily menu del dia at 12 euros including luscious Bierzo wine. The food is prepared with care and the special menu also available in the evening. The owner/manager of the Hostal has often walked the camino and is a most gracious host. Do keep this in mind for a delicious treat and/or a comfortable sleep!

MM

 

[s. brown]

I have gone out of my way, by bus and train, not to walk the Meseta.
I've read, heard and accepted the Meseta is long, boring and sufficiently flat that you can see from your starting point to where you will stop for the day.
Yes, it's long and where in past centuries it was known as the dry zone; the green fields this April are beautiful aided by both surface and subsurface aqueducts.
Boring...not so much. There are many historical churches, castles, and windmills, though I didn't see Don Quixote tilting at any.
Somewhat flat, come on it's a plateau, the main valleys are sectioned by sufficiently steep inclines to tax a pilgrim or two.
I've found time to relax my rush, contemplate my mood in thankful silence, and thank God I'm alive to enjoy all the Meseta has to offer.
Buen "Meseta" Camino,
Arn

How long is the Meseta?

 

[Icacos]

How long is the Meseta?

I had to bus the equivalent of five days of walking due to tendinitis and still saw a fair bit of it, I think. Next time I hope to walk the entire expanse.

 

[Mark Lee]

How long is the Meseta?

How far is your imagination? How expansive are your dreams?
Ooops......sorry. I got all mystical and magical there describing La Meseta, ha ha.
It kinda starts after Burgos and kinda ends before Leon.
Cheers.

 

[Kathy F.]

How far is your imagination? How expansive are your dreams?
Ooops......sorry. I got all mystical and magical there describing La Meseta, ha ha.
It kinda starts after Burgos and kinda ends before Leon.
Cheers.

HA!

 

[anniethenurse]

How long is the Meseta?

About 210 km between Burgos and Leon roughly. Or about 5- 8 days depending on your daily average.
Buen camino.

 

[Bernard duffy]

How far is your imagination? How expansive are your dreams?
Ooops......sorry. I got all mystical and magical there describing La Meseta, ha ha.
It kinda starts after Burgos and kinda ends before Leon.
Cheers.

Oh hark at Alan Whicker

 

[Mikel Olivares]

La Meseta.
In winter.
Hours and hours. Days and days. Km. and Km.
Landscape and art.
Solitude.
Solo. With myself.
A unique experience.
To repeat.

 

[SYates]

The Meseta leaves nobody untouched.

 

[annakappa]

The day before we left for Spain to complete our first Camino ( we did it in two parts, due to a last minute decision and therefore lack of time to walk the whole Camino in one go), I had attended a talk by our Dutch Amassador here, about Dutch landscape paintings. Most are at least two thirds sky and only one third land. So when we arrived finally to the Meseta, I found myself continually putting myself in the eyes of a Dutch landscape artist. There is so much to take in and, as Tincatinker say, I was ready to fully appreciate the vastness of the Meseta. Anne

 

[Al the optimist]

I am sitting in the garden at the Peaceable Kingdom in Moratinos. The sky is whispy clear, Ruby the dog just nudged my arm on the way to the water barrel and I am content.

They are so friendly Arn't they! (and Reb and Pat as well). Seriously though I think you should be more careful of our souls and not cause such feelings of envy Arn.