They are out to get me

[Sidekick]

Well I’m on the Camino Portugués central route. Just started out of Porto and wanted to share an experience for those who plan on walking this route
Drivers are a little crazy past vila do Pinheiro. I know, I know, I’ve read how tight the road can be but this was really scary today. What happened was this crazed gentleman driving towards me - I was walking facing traffic - decided to see if I could really plaster myself against the wall! I could see it in his eye - thinking “look here’s this fat little pilgrim with a pack bigger then she is and she’s wearing a baseball hat — for sure an American “. Let me give her a good scare. Well my other life is a cyclist so I know how to become like part of a wall - which I did. I tell you I could smell his breathe that was how close it was. He was the first - it continued all the way up on N306. Just watch yourselves. It is dangerous with the blind curves and drivers who are really pushing you. I remember statements to this effect on the forum so I was prepared but honestly didn’t dream how close they could get. With all that said - I’m having a ball!

 

[RumAndChupacabras]

Yes indeed, there are lots of zooming cars and scary on those curves (blind spots). Glad you're having a ball!!! Keep being safe.

 

[Deleted member 56069]

I agree that day one out of Porto via the central route and particularly walking along the narrow shoulder of the N306 isn't for those that lack courage!
Knowing what I know now, I would take the coastal route out of Porto and then cross back to the central route on day two.

 

[Deleted member 73526]

Sounds awful. Facing inconsiderate drivers with a pack on my back is not my idea of fun at all. I'm glad you're keeping your spirits up.

Maybe we should have flags sticking out perpendicular from our rucksacks - like some cyclists have - to encourage drivers to keep a proper passing distance. Or dash cams like the Russian drivers that I see on YouTube ...

 

[Turga]

for sure an American

Yes! I am paranoid -but am I paranoid enough?

 

[naplesdon]

Been there, done that! It is a terrifying span to walk and no way to escape if the truck is too wide.

 

[ouroboros]

I use my staff or trekking pole, tie a caution orange tape flag to it and hold it horizontally across my body to the width I want for safety and if usually keeps them clear... unless they want to scratch their paint on your baston.

 

[Karl Oz]

Yep, that stretch is simply unsafe.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I am in Matosinhos tonight and Vila de Condo tomorrow before turning into the road. I am worried about the stretch I'm planning which heads east towards Rates and the central route. Is this as dangerous as the one being talked about up the way farther notth?

 

[ouroboros]

I walked Matosinhos to Vila de Conde and took a taxi to start at Rates. Can’t remember exactly but was probably because of the route.

 

[LynneR]

I am glad you shared this. I was planning to walk the central path out of Porto, as I'm not too into walking on the coast. Now, disappointed, I will probably change my plans. I have read posts that say it's not as bad as people make it out to be....but your description of the road is scaring me onto the coast. Very disappointing to hear all of this, but I'm glad you are safe.

 

[ouroboros]

It is nice to warm up for a day’s walk on the coast—level, lovely, and a bit more tranquil beginning for the Portugese Way
Buon Camino!

 

[t2andreo]

I am in Matosinhos tonight and Vila de Condo tomorrow before turning into the road. I am worried about the stretch I'm planning which heads east towards Rates and the central route. Is this as dangerous as the one being talked about up the way farther notth?

RELAX! Walk so as to be visible. Walk single file until you are past the dicey bits.

Put your son about 100 feet in front of you. He is larger and an oncoming vehicle will see him easier. Also, whatever happens to him will serve as a warning to you.

You did not get to a mature age by taking risks. That’s what the young ‘uns are for... ;-)

This section of road is NOT long. It can be dramatic. But it is over with relatively quick.

Enjoy the journey!

Been there, done that...twice...

Hope this helps.

 

[Sidekick]

I think wearing bright colors or doing the stick idea would help. Again today while walking towards Arcos N206 nasty business. However I will say drivers tried hard to give me space. It’s a gorgeous walk though even with tight roads. I’m thoroughly enjoying myself.

 

[Caminogoat]

Well I’m on the Camino Portugués central route. Just started out of Porto and wanted to share an experience for those who plan on walking this route
Drivers are a little crazy past vila do Pinheiro. I know, I know, I’ve read how tight the road can be but this was really scary today. What happened was this crazed gentleman driving towards me - I was walking facing traffic - decided to see if I could really plaster myself against the wall! I could see it in his eye - thinking “look here’s this fat little pilgrim with a pack bigger then she is and she’s wearing a baseball hat — for sure an American “. Let me give her a good scare. Well my other life is a cyclist so I know how to become like part of a wall - which I did. I tell you I could smell his breathe that was how close it was. He was the first - it continued all the way up on N306. Just watch yourselves. It is dangerous with the blind curves and drivers who are really pushing you. I remember statements to this effect on the forum so I was prepared but honestly didn’t dream how close they could get. With all that said - I’m having a ball!

I am so sorry that happened to you. Glad you are okay. Hope only good things happen to you from now on... I am on Norte, my 3rd day. It is absolutely beautiful here but the uphills are killing me. I get a really good workout

 

[Kiwi-family]

If it’s any consolation, once you cross the bridge into Spain all those traffic worries disappear!

 

[AndreaCT]

I am in Matosinhos tonight and Vila de Condo tomorrow before turning into the road. I am worried about the stretch I'm planning which heads east towards Rates and the central route. Is this as dangerous as the one being talked about up the way farther notth?

Oh my goodness Chris!!! It’s Andrea from Victoria. Excuse me everyone-I’m hijacking this thread just for a sec (but, because of the road on the Central route out of Porto) I’m heading out via the coastal via Matosinhos). You’re a day ahead of me! Maybe we’ll cross paths in Santiago.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Oh my goodness Chris!!! It’s Andrea from Victoria. Excuse me everyone-I’m hijacking this thread just for a sec (but, because of the road on the Central route out of Porto) I’m heading out via the coastal via Matosinhos). You’re a day ahead of me! Maybe we’ll cross paths in Santiago.

It was a long day to Vila do Condo today! Maybe we'll run into each other before then. I have a turquoise Osprey pack. It's not hard to miss!

 

[Sidekick]

I hope I see you both. I have a forum patch on my osprey pack

 

[Elle Bieling]

I agree with @t2andreo. It can be done safely! Single file, bright colors, heads up at all times through the dicey section. If you look at the Portuguese pilgrims, they ALL wear the bright yellow vests with reflective strips. I noticed this to be especially true in the sections shared with the Fatima route. They know and understand their own country's drivers and take the proper precautions. The Portuguese drive fast , unlike what we are used to. Be safe and adapt as you can!

 

[pilgrimglenn7]

I agree that day one out of Porto via the central route and particularly walking along the narrow shoulder of the N306 isn't for those that lack courage!
Knowing what I know now, I would take the coastal route out of Porto and then cross back to the central route on day two.

Thanks for your advice

 

[pilgrimglenn7]

Well I’m on the Camino Portugués central route. Just started out of Porto and wanted to share an experience for those who plan on walking this route
Drivers are a little crazy past vila do Pinheiro. I know, I know, I’ve read how tight the road can be but this was really scary today. What happened was this crazed gentleman driving towards me - I was walking facing traffic - decided to see if I could really plaster myself against the wall! I could see it in his eye - thinking “look here’s this fat little pilgrim with a pack bigger then she is and she’s wearing a baseball hat — for sure an American “. Let me give her a good scare. Well my other life is a cyclist so I know how to become like part of a wall - which I did. I tell you I could smell his breathe that was how close it was. He was the first - it continued all the way up on N306. Just watch yourselves. It is dangerous with the blind curves and drivers who are really pushing you. I remember statements to this effect on the forum so I was prepared but honestly didn’t dream how close they could get. With all that said - I’m having a ball!

So sorry mate praying for you keep safe Buen Camino

 

[ouroboros]

I use my staff or trekking pole, tie a caution orange tape flag to it and hold it horizontally across my body to the width I want for safety and if usually keeps them clear... unless they want to scratch their paint on your baston.

If really threatened I twirl my flagged baston like a giant propeller as I walk!

 

[igailfh]

I am in Matosinhos tonight and Vila de Condo tomorrow before turning into the road. I am worried about the stretch I'm planning which heads east towards Rates and the central route. Is this as dangerous as the one being talked about up the way farther notth?

No, it's not dangerous between Vila do Conde & Rates. I walked that route in 2017, no problems.

 

[WayWalker]

My husband and I wore our brightly colored pack covers on a dry day when walking dangerous roads. Yes, there will be times you will walk fast to get beyond the place where there is no shoulder or bailout options. Oh, and the Portuguese drive very fast! Stay vigilant out there!

 

[Marcus-UK]

I am in Matosinhos tonight and Vila de Condo tomorrow before turning into the road. I am worried about the stretch I'm planning which heads east towards Rates and the central route. Is this as dangerous as the one being talked about up the way farther notth?

From Vila do Conde there are local buses that go to Junqeira/Arcos. They go early from near the Post Office. Alternatively you can continue walking along the coastal route to Povoa de Varzim and take the bus direct to Barcelos. This cuts out all the bad bits of road walking. In Povoa continue along the sea front until you see the football ground then turn right. The main bus tation is a 15 minute walk from there.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

From Vila do Conde there are local buses that go to Junqeira/Arcos. They go early from near the Post Office. Alternatively you can continue walking along the coastal route to Povoa de Varzim and take the bus direct to Barcelos. This cuts out all the bad bits of road walking. In Povoa continue along the sea front until you see the football ground then turn right. The main bus tation is a 15 minute walk from there.

Too late for me. We walked the road from Vila do Condo to a ways past Rates. Walked 21k, then a taxi to Barcelos! I'm glad we did. I have a bad cold and the extra kilometers would have done me in!

 

[naplesdon]

Chris, Get well soon.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Chris, Get well soon.

Thanks, Don!

 

[Kerry C]

I am in Matosinhos tonight and Vila de Condo tomorrow before turning into the road. I am worried about the stretch I'm planning which heads east towards Rates and the central route. Is this as dangerous as the one being talked about up the way farther notth?

We just walked that route today. It isn’t as well marked, so be careful to spot the arrows. There are plenty of pilgrims, so you can navigate that way. We didn’t find it unsafe but you do have to pay attention to the cars. The risky sections had warning signs for drivers.

 

[My first Camino]

I'm just about start Camino Portugues from Lisabon. I'll be alone. Is that a good idea? Is it safe enough for female pilgrim?

 

[naplesdon]

We just walked that route today. It isn’t as well marked, so be careful to spot the arrows. There are plenty of pilgrims, so you can navigate that way. We didn’t find it unsafe but you do have to pay attention to the cars. The risky sections had warning signs for drivers.

Yeah, but those drivers think it is fun to freak out the pilgrims walking along the road.

 

[Marcus-UK]

Too late for me. We walked the road from Vila do Condo to a ways past Rates. Walked 21k, then a taxi to Barcelos! I'm glad we did. I have a bad cold and the extra kilometers would have done me in!

If you are still feeling sub-par when you get to Ponte de Lima. The route out of Ponte De Lima becomes quite steep with difficult footing in places. There is also less availability for topping up water bottles. You can catch a bus from Ponte that will drop you off at the top of the steep section. I stopped at the Old Village Hostel (Via do Foral Velho D. Teresa 1415, 4990-012 Ponte de Lima) and the bus station is behind the Hostel. The hostel also washed and dried my clothes for free.

I did this route in 2017 just after having a heart attack and had been given a limitation on my maximum heart rate. So in addition to wearing a monitor I researched the alternatives for the more difficult sections.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

If you are still feeling sub-par when you get to Ponte de Lima. The route out of Ponte De Lima becomes quite steep with difficult footing in places. There is also less availability for topping up water bottles. You can catch a bus from Ponte that will drop you off at the top of the steep section. I stopped at the Old Village Hostel (Via do Foral Velho D. Teresa 1415, 4990-012 Ponte de Lima) and the bus station is behind the Hostel. The hostel also washed and dried my clothes for free.

I did this route in 2017 just after having a heart attack and had been given a limitation on my maximum heart rate. So in addition to wearing a monitor I researched the alternatives for the more difficult sections.

Thank you, Marcus! We just arrived in Ponte de Lima and may check out the bus for a portion of the walk tomorrow. I did walk 18 kilometers today, which was a good amount for my situation being somewhat ill.

 

[firstshirt]

I use my staff or trekking pole, tie a caution orange tape flag to it and hold it horizontally across my body to the width I want for safety and if usually keeps them clear... unless they want to scratch their paint on your baston.

I kind of do this (no flagging) with my poles.

 

[hel&scott]

Lots of road walking on this route, narrow or next to no verge. As commented above, bright colours, reflective strips and single file a must. On poor visibility days we also used bike torches, white in front and red at the back. I've seen how difficult it is to spot walkers wearing dark rain coats on the side of the road so it's best to boost your visibility where possible.

 

[LynneR]

In regards to the dangerous part of this day, about how many km are we talking? A few, or is this half a day or more of walking on narrow roads with fast cars?
I was set on an all-central walk, then these posts made me want to shift to the coast for a day or two...but I want to be sure about my decision.

 

[hel&scott]

In regards to the dangerous part of this day, about how many km are we talking? A few, or is this half a day or more of walking on narrow roads with fast cars?
I was set on an all-central walk, then these posts made me want to shift to the coast for a day or two...but I want to be sure about my decision.

We walked the central route and from memory almost every day had some road walking, often just in and out if town, which on the major centres can be at busy times of the day. Lisbon actually had a good cycle / walking route along the river, but Porto was a mad house. It's do able, just use common sense.

 

[patk]

I am glad you shared this. I was planning to walk the central path out of Porto, as I'm not too into walking on the coast. Now, disappointed, I will probably change my plans. I have read posts that say it's not as bad as people make it out to be....but your description of the road is scaring me onto the coast. Very disappointing to hear all of this, but I'm glad you are safe.

I thought the coastal route was fine. A bit hot but some nice bits and better than any road!