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Search 69,459 Camino Questions

Thinking of doing Frances - Salvador - Primitvo

trecile

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Staff member
Time of past OR future Camino
Francés, Norte, Salvador, Primitivo, Portuguese
Has anyone done this? Sidetracking off the Frances onto the Salvador, then Primitivo before rejoining the Frances at Melide? I'll be starting in SJPDP with a friend, but she will be leaving me around Logroño. I'd like to do something a little different, and thought that this might be a good plan. How many days should I allow for this little detour?

I'll leave my options open though, in case I finding that am walking with people that I enjoy that are doing the Frances straight through.

I also want to walk to Finesterre and Muxia. I don't have anything booked yet. Probably leaving around the last week of June.
 
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Do it! My favourite combo so far. Especially if scenery is your thing.
 
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July 2016 I walked the norte Irun-Baamonde, could not finish in Santiago as I had to fly back on a certain date. So next year I am planning a shorter walk to avoid another heart break. It was so so sad to watch my Camino family walk away while I had to take the bus!
 
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It is a beautiful, stunning detour, indeed, it will only add approximately 5 days or so to your total walking days. HOWEVER, the social aspect might be relevant too, you will definitely break with the group of people you are accustomed to see in the Camino, el Salvador is not very crowded at all, but instead you find unbelievable landscapes. Salvador would be 5, then Primitivo to Melide 11 or 12, whereas following the standard Francés you would have 10-11 days between León and Mellide.

Once you arrive in León, let your heart rule and follow it!
 
I agree with Amancio -- you may have trouble breaking off from your group on the Frances, but it is a wonderful route.

The 4-5 days on the Salvador will likely be uncrowded, but not solitary. The Primitivo has actually gotten pretty crowded. I walked it last June and saw a huge increase in people but also in accommodations to offset it. Many of the people who walk the Primitivo will start in Oviedo, so you won't be "crashing" an ongoing party. Many others will have started in Irun on the Norte and taken a left turn down to Oviedo. I did find that those who started in Oviedo tended to form closer ties with each other (I, like you, had come from the Salvador and fell in with a great group that formed in the first couple of days, all of whom had started in Oviedo).

Great idea, trecile, Buen camino, Laurie
 
I am planning to walk the Camino de Madrid, followed by the Salvador and Primitivo next year, probably starting last week in April.

Don't worry about leaving your 'family'. Last year on the Norte all of my lovely group peeled off onto the Primitivo whilst I continued on the Norte. I was briefly sad to see them all marching off together, but within minutes was relishing a new adventure and a new challenge.
 
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I am much like you in that I like people, I stayed the course of SJPDP to Finnesterre because I liked the group I walked with. Yet thinking about it, we do this in many ways to test ourselves so when I return it will be to go the quieter Madrid, Salvador, Primitivo then on to Muxia. If I am blessed returning with my wife I will do the Portuguese. In so many ways it seems we have as in life many paths in front of us. I will watch with interest your choice.
Buen Camino
Keith
 
I like these answers! My next hike will I hope be the Salvador- Primitivo combination, starting in Léon and ending in Santiago. I've yet to look closely but felt that I should allow 3 weeks.

I too enjoy the social aspects, but generally find new friends day by day so that after a week or so i've fallen in with an entirely new group.
 
I walked the CF this past spring, and I had friends that walked the Norte to Camino Vadiniense, San Salvador and Primitivo - then on to Santiago. Their experience was wonderful and inspired me to want to do similar. Not sure I will walk as you suggested (Frances to San Salvador) or begin with the Norte as they did.

But I look forward to walking these Caminos.

Blessings,
Priscilla
 
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600 km isn't enough for me!
We were the same and ended up walking 1,500km on that particular hike (although, to be honest, by the time we got to Finisterre, we were ALMOST ready to just take a bus back, but we walked!)
We "left" a camino family in Leon, but met a new one for the Salvador (well, two people, one of whom shot off ahead of us by a day, so relaly it was only one guy, but my kids loved him!). We stayed an extra day in Oviedo and the guy walked on, but we met up with him at Finisterre and in the meantime we got a whole new family on the Primitivo. It was easily as busy as the Frances had been! IN fact, we even walked TOGETHER during the day sometimes, which had not happened so much on the Frances. Of course, this is entirely due to they type of people rather than the route, but I share to alleviate any concern you might have that it is not social.
 
I recently walked from Leon on Salvador/Primitivo . Started alone but soon met up with a friendly perigrino and from La Robla there were 8 of us meeting up in the evenings forming a warm,friendly family.
On the way out of Oviedo on the first day of the Primitivo met pilgrims along the way and walked off and on with them ,meeting up in the evenings. I have to say that the Primitivo has gone to the top of my fav Camino list.
 
On my Camino Frances, I walked with different people at different times. A couple of the people I walked with went off on other routes or wanted to bus ahead or whatever. And some whom I met at Orisson or in the early part of the Camino, I'd run into at various points along the Way. There was one person I met at Orisson whom I only ran into again in Santiago.

So my Camino was pretty fluid, but still plenty social. I'm still in touch with several of my fluid family members. I'm saying this to say, I don't think I'd let this be a determining factor in making plans. Plus plans can always be changed along the Way.
 
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Has anyone done this? Sidetracking off the Frances onto the Salvador, then Primitivo before rejoining the Frances at Melide? I'll be starting in SJPDP with a friend, but she will be leaving me around Logroño. I'd like to do something a little different, and thought that this might be a good plan. How many days should I allow for this little detour?

I'll leave my options open though, in case I finding that am walking with people that I enjoy that are doing the Frances straight through.

I also want to walk to Finesterre and Muxia. I don't have anything booked yet. Probably leaving around the last week of June.

Hi Trecile,
In 2015 may/june i started in Irun and walked to Burgos joining the CF, then to Leon where i took the Salvador to Oviedo and then Primitivo to Santiago. It was wonderful, quiet on the Vasco, then lively from Burgos to Leon on the Meseta, quiet and challenging on the Salvador and then a nice flow of pilgrims on the Primitivo.
Recommended.........
 
On my Camino Frances, I walked with different people at different times. A couple of the people I walked with went off on other routes or wanted to bus ahead or whatever. And some whom I met at Orisson or in the early part of the Camino, I'd run into at various points along the Way. There was one person I met at Orisson whom I only ran into again in Santiago.

So my Camino was pretty fluid, but still plenty social. I'm still in touch with several of my fluid family members. I'm saying this to say, I don't think I'd let this be a determining factor in making plans. Plus plans can always be changed along the Way.
Yes, my Camino was similar. Started out walking with a group of people that I met early on, but after about a week people had gone their separate ways. I did end up meeting up with several of them in Santiago. I then became a part of a couple of different groups during the remainder of the Camino, or walked a few days with people here and there.
I always want to keep my options open, so I'll allow myself enough time to walk this variation, and if I change my mind I can!
 
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@trecile, I can't comment on the Salvador, but I think you'd love the Primitivo. It's 'proper' hiking - physically demanding, with spectacular scenery. It's also quite social, but in a different way to the Frances.

If you don't have time for the Salvador, there are trains from Leon to Oviedo. The slow one gives a great sense of the Salvador and an incentive to return another time :)

Buen Camino!
 
I just finished the Primitivo , Sept and late oct of 2016. Was spectacular but at times it was busy with Pilgrims. Some allergies were full. Weather was great and company even better
Buen Camino
 
Has anyone done this? Sidetracking off the Frances onto the Salvador, then Primitivo before rejoining the Frances at Melide? I'll be starting in SJPDP with a friend, but she will be leaving me around Logroño. I'd like to do something a little different, and thought that this might be a good plan. How many days should I allow for this little detour?

I'll leave my options open though, in case I finding that am walking with people that I enjoy that are doing the Frances straight through.

I also want to walk to Finesterre and Muxia. I don't have anything booked yet. Probably leaving around the last week of June.

How strange I should see your post today, I was just thinking of the same detour - mainly because I wanted to somehow try to avoid the chaos from Sarria onwards. I've spoken to a few people who have actually walked the Primitivo and they've all said it was their best camino. I was thinking I get a bus from Sarria to Oviedo or the coast. I haven't made a detailed plan yet, it was just a recent thought. I'll keep a watch on this thread.
 
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This combo sounds very interesting to me also. I will be starting my 2nd Frances in May of 2017 and this may give me the added adventure I am looking for. How well marked is the Salvador and is there an English guide for this part of the combo. How long will it take to get to Santiago if I do this combo? Does the Salvador only start from Leon? I did the Finisterre/Musial walk back in 2013 when I first did the CF.
 
This combo sounds very interesting to me also. I will be starting my 2nd Frances in May of 2017 and this may give me the added adventure I am looking for. How well marked is the Salvador and is there an English guide for this part of the combo. How long will it take to get to Santiago if I do this combo? Does the Salvador only start from Leon? I did the Finisterre/Musial walk back in 2013 when I first did the CF.
Hi, Kennedy1,
The Salvador is a 120 km camino between Leon and Oviedo, an old detour used by pilgrims who wanted to visit the treasures in the Oviedo cathedral. There is an excellent guide in English online here

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B61VvtkuNOwEMXpaM280YWtTTXM/view?pref=2&pli=1

The guide was written in Spanish by the person most responsible for the resurgence of the Salvador, a true Camino angel who has marked it, built bridges, built the cross at the pass, etc. Thanks to him, the Salvador is very well marked. Most people walk the Salvador in 4-5 days. Then from Oviedo onto the Primitivo is likely another 11-12 days. Some take longer, some walk it faster. One of my favorites! Buen camino, Laurie
 
This combo sounds very interesting to me also. I will be starting my 2nd Frances in May of 2017 and this may give me the added adventure I am looking for. How well marked is the Salvador and is there an English guide for this part of the combo. How long will it take to get to Santiago if I do this combo? Does the Salvador only start from Leon? I did the Finisterre/Musial walk back in 2013 when I first did the CF.
When I walked the Frances this year I didn't use a guide book. I used apps and websites for distances, albergues, etc.
One of the sites that I used, Forwalk.org now has guides for the Salvador and Primitivo! The site has options for making your own guide, printing your guide or saving it to your phone.
 
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Has anyone done this? Sidetracking off the Frances onto the Salvador, then Primitivo before rejoining the Frances at Melide? I'll be starting in SJPDP with a friend, but she will be leaving me around Logroño. I'd like to do something a little different, and thought that this might be a good plan. How many days should I allow for this little detour?

I'll leave my options open though, in case I finding that am walking with people that I enjoy that are doing the Frances straight through.

I also want to walk to Finesterre and Muxia. I don't have anything booked yet. Probably leaving around the last week of June.


Trecile:

The San Salvador is a 4-6 day walk. It has a separate passport and Compostela. You get the passport in the Albergue in Leon and the Compostela in the Cathedral in Oviedo. The Primitivo is an 11-14 day walk.

The Salvador is a sparsely traveled route unless things have changed since 2013. The Primitivo you will never be alone but not as crowded as the Frances.

I would agree with others that leaving your Camino family will probably be the hardest part. That said, you will probably see some of the slower ones in Santiago.

Ultreya,
Joe
 
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@trecile, I can't comment on the Salvador, but I think you'd love the Primitivo. It's 'proper' hiking - physically demanding, with spectacular scenery. It's also quite social, but in a different way to the Frances.

If you don't have time for the Salvador, there are trains from Leon to Oviedo. The slow one gives a great sense of the Salvador and an incentive to return another time :)

Buen Camino!

Indeed, I fell in love with El Salvador landscape on the train to Oviedo, when I did the Primitivo in 2010, I said to myself "I have to come back to see this landscape on foot". That particular train route is one of the most beautiful in Europe, absolutely worth it.

And so, I went to El Salvador in 2012.

Just like in 2014 I drove through Riaño, 900 km from home, and fell in love with the amazing landscape, then I spotted a yellow arrow and decided I had to come back for more. And so I did in 2016, the Lebaniego-Vadiniense.

One month ago I happened to visit Huelva and the mountains in the North and... I will hopefully tell you all next May!
 
Has anyone done this? Sidetracking off the Frances onto the Salvador, then Primitivo before rejoining the Frances at Melide? I'll be starting in SJPDP with a friend, but she will be leaving me around Logroño. I'd like to do something a little different, and thought that this might be a good plan. How many days should I allow for this little detour?

I'll leave my options open though, in case I finding that am walking with people that I enjoy that are doing the Frances straight through.

I also want to walk to Finesterre and Muxia. I don't have anything booked yet. Probably leaving around the last week of June.
Go for it!!! Is my humble advise :). Did the Frances, Norte/ Primitivo and the San Salvador but all seperatetely- however did meet plenty of people who came from alternative routes (there are many more :) should you be interested and I am sure others could tell you more about. Leaving it open makes things generally even better- so than you can see where the camino takes you :). Leon- Oviedo will take about one week and from Oviedo to SdC around 2 weeks- depending obviously how quick/ much kilometers per day you would prefer tp walk. Dont forget to take the Hospitales route on the Primitivo and see -if you are interested and if possible- if you can take the alternative route on the Primitivo from Lugo to Ferrol, and Sobrado dos Monxes and from there you join the Camino Frances (after Melide) in Arzua.

I am sure others could add more alternative routes! Enjoy and buen camino!

ps also walked from SdC to Finisterre but this was more than 15 years ago and in those days there was 'nothing': no yellow arrows, no albergues, not many fellow pilgrims just very few- but it was a very nice adventure :).
 
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Go for it!!! Is my humble advise :). Did the Frances, Norte/ Primitivo and the San Salvador but all seperatetely- however did meet plenty of people who came from alternative routes (there are many more :) should you be interested and I am sure others could tell you more about. Leaving it open makes things generally even better- so than you can see where the camino takes you :). Leon- Oviedo will take about one week and from Oviedo to SdC around 2 weeks- depending obviously how quick/ much kilometers per day you would prefer tp walk. Dont forget to take the Hospitales route on the Primitivo and see -if you are interested and if possible- if you can take the alternative route on the Primitivo from Lugo to Ferrol, and Sobrado dos Monxes and from there you join the Camino Frances (after Melide) in Arzua.

I am sure others could add more alternative routes! Enjoy and buen camino!

ps also walked from SdC to Finisterre but this was more than 15 years ago and in those days there was 'nothing': no yellow arrows, no albergues, not many fellow pilgrims just very few- but it was a very nice adventure :).
Wow, this is just what I was looking for. Due to calendar commitments i cannot leave Australia until late June and was planning to do the Del Norte then saw how busy it would be with tourists along the coast. Love the Frances and was thinking about this option/variation as have heard it is so lovely. Thankyou everyone for all the wonderful advice and tips. Maybe I will meet some of you along the Way. Buen Camino
 
If you really want to avoid the crowds, start in Madrid, walk to Sahagún, then to Leon for the Salvador/Primitivo. The problem with starting on the Francés is that you will have a hard time leaving your pals when you get to León. Most of them will NOT be interested in this absolutely marvelous alternative. The Madrid is solitary, but oh so nice.
 
I'm also planning to do this. I'll leave ST Jean on 4th July. Had planned to do it last year but took another variation. I think I just wanted an excuse to go back this year.
 
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I'm also planning to do this. I'll leave ST Jean on 4th July. Had planned to do it last year but took another variation. I think I just wanted an excuse to go back this year.
That's the same day I'm leaving St Jean! I'll be stopping at Orisson the first night. I'll be walking with a friend for about ten days, then she has to go back to work. Perhaps I'll see you on the trail.
 
I am doing the Camino de Madrid, Salvador, Primitivo, Frances and maybe Finisterre starting 27 March 2017! This is a really exciting combination of routes.

This Brit (from Finland) walked into Finisterre Sept 25th in the company of an Oregonian! Was that you Trecile? If so...I'm afraid to say I spent too long at that beach bar savouring the the idea of the last few km along the sandy shore into town and the end...
 
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I am doing the Camino de Madrid, Salvador, Primitivo, Frances and maybe Finisterre starting 27 March 2017! This is a really exciting combination of routes.

This Brit (from Finland) walked into Finisterre Sept 25th in the company of an Oregonian! Was that you Trecile? If so...I'm afraid to say I spent too long at that beach bar savouring the the idea of the last few km along the sandy shore into town and the end...

Yes! That was me. It was very nice walking with you. Sorry if I wasn't better company, I had a pretty bad cold at the time, which put a damper on my last day of walking. That's something that I hope that I can improve on this year! :)

I'll be interested in hearing how your Camino goes this year.

Nice to "see" you here, and thanks again for that Coke. :)
 
Wow..small world indeed! I had to ship out of Finisterre early next day so did not have too much time to enjoy the town!

Will report back on the Madrid, Salvador, Primitivo - I'm not much of forum dweller though so the full report will be May time maybe.
 
Turns out I decided to walk the Frances, san Salvador and Primitivo combination after all!

Started in Logrono 27th March...here are a few observations etc...
I decided to jump on a bus to Logrono in the end rather than do the Camino de Madrid before the San Salvador. So I walked Logrono to Leon for a bit of "training". Logrono, Najera, Santa Domingo, Belorado, Ages, Burgos, Hontanas, Boadilla, Carrion de los Condes, Terradillos, El Burgo Ranero, Leon.

On the Camino de San Salvador now. First day out of Leon is easy to follow as the river Berganesga is always only metres away. I walked to La Robla first day which is a nice walk over some cute hills just out of Leon but the walk into La Robla is past a steel rolling mill, gas power station and a cement works. La Robla is an industrial railway town and has its charms but nott many. The great, clean and well equipped albergue (its greatest charm) is about 350m out of town to north, so quite a jaunt to the plaza and back. Smelled like coal was alo still in use in town's domestic stoves/ fireplaces. Basically La Robla is Stoke (uk) circa 1970's. (Sorry La Robla!). Great albergue though! Also I arrived on Sunday so everything closed.

Second day La Robla to Poladura de la Tercia is nothing short of spectacular in terms of the change in scenery, elevation gain etc. More road walking than I anticipated tho. Pretty stiff climb out of Buiza (I had to "stop to admire the view" a few times despite being pretty fit by now.) Path not so steep after initial height gain and walk through high mountain passes and pine forests down to Poladura is spectacular.

Not much in Poladura, so take anything you want to cook with you. There is a bar in the Casa Rural Posada. I also found an Artisan cider press (2€ per bottle flat scrumpy de Asturias 7% proof - hic. hic. Recomnended)

Walked over highest point at 1600m next day Poladura to Pajares. It was very challenging right from the first few 100m out of Poladura. I planned to only walk to Pajares which turned out to be a good discision with 800m up and down etc. Spectacular is not the word to describe the sight of snow capped peaks and misty valleys. I was lucky to have blue skies and sunshine tho..I would not want to be up there in bad weather etc. You need to be fit. It is not a normal camino walk it is a trek/hike really. Do not take the dangerous descent ftom the abandoned Paradore hotel ( Dangerous in my opinion...I went down a short way but the footing is very questionable and it is a long way down .. ..I say that as someone with zero vertigo tendancies). Instead go to the rear of the cafe and follow the arrows from there. Still a steepish descent but not Himalayan death-plunge type. This will make sense when you get to the Paradore carpark to take a few landscspe shots ( fantastic viewpoint)). Beware that crossing the N630 road needs to be done at the apex so you can see both ways etc. The descent to Pajares is very steep and unrelenting (think descent into Roncesvalles x 3). Take breaks and take it easy. I didn't have poles which would have been handy. I would say this stretch is like walking the Snowdon Horseshoe in Wales in terms of graft up and steepness down so don't carry any emergency wine bottles or extra baggage.

So far all the other walkers have been Spanish and I've been the only foreigner. Also has been the same group of 16 that have filled the albergues each night. Could be more bed pressure in high season although there are also casa rural options always. Maybe there are more Soanish walkers due to Semana Santa? Pajares tonight is full plus 4-5 on foam pads on floor. I don't think they ever are " completo" so don't worry.

There is a bar in Pajeres (closed Tuesdays and yes I was there on....Tues!). Hospitalairo Marisa will cook a pilgrim meal with wine if enough people notify in advance so It is a good idea to coordinate with fellow walkers on this! She is great!

Third day was Pajares to Pola de Lena 23km. Quite tough despite being overall down hill (think 4 down 3 up) plus the 2 previous mountain days in your legs...ouch!
 
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I didn't have poles which would have been handy.

Great post, just makes us Salvador fans long to be back there. I can just not imagine ever tiring of the Buiza to Pajares stretch. It is absolutely stunning.

BUT... you walked it without poles? Wow. You must be young and daring. ;) For anyone else, poles are, if not essential, pretty close to it.

One question Oravasaari, just wondering if the bar across the street from the parador (at the Pajares pass, not Pajares town) is open again. When I walked through last summer, they were still repairing the damage from a fire. It would be great if it were open again!

I am sure you're right with your suspicion that Semana Santa has caused a huge spike in traffic. This is a camino that is easily walkable during Semana Santa, and both León and Oviedo are well communicated by train and bus, so it seems like it would be an obvious choice. I expect the numbers will fall again, at least till August. I walked in late June last year and there were very few of us, no more than 6 a night.

buen camino, Laurie
 
Great post, just makes us Salvador fans long to be back there. I can just not imagine ever tiring of the Buiza to Pajares stretch. It is absolutely stunning.

BUT... you walked it without poles? Wow. You must be young and daring. ;) For anyone else, poles are, if not essential, pretty close to it.

One question Oravasaari, just wondering if the bar across the street from the parador (at the Pajares pass, not Pajares town) is open again. When I walked through last summer, they were still repairing the damage from a fire. It would be great if it were open again!

I am sure you're right with your suspicion that Semana Santa has caused a huge spike in traffic. This is a camino that is easily walkable during Semana Santa, and both León and Oviedo are well communicated by train and bus, so it seems like it would be an obvious choice. I expect the numbers will fall again, at least till August. I walked in late June last year and there were very few of us, no more than 6 a night.

buen camino, Laurie

Laurie - Yes the cafe/bar is open. I did wonder why it was so swish and new inside.

Poles - No longer a young man and so could gave benefitted from poles!
 
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Laurie - Yes the cafe/bar is open. I did wonder why it was so swish and new inside.

Poles - No longer a young man and so could gave benefitted from poles!

Brought back good memories and scarey ones of my walk to Pajares as it was extremely foggy that day.
Good news about the cafe,just where its needed.
 
Not had wifi for a while but here id the final few couple of days account if my San Salvador camino....

Fourth day was Pajares to Pola de Lena. Another spectacular mountain walk descending down (on average) but the route makers have you zig-zagging up snd down the valley sides so as to avoid walking on the N630. So plenty ups as well as mostly down. Massive descent from Pajares (think Roncesvalles x 3 and steeper). Walk is through beautiful lanes and up/down tracks. Plenty of gates to go through on this leg. Also some sheep dogs (70kg booming bark but tail wagging). Harmless...just wants a stroke and to sniff your pack pockets for biscuits etc. The tracks are also deep in leaflitter which would be great if there were not cobbles and boulders lurking under a foot of leaves. Tread lightly. Pola de Lena is not a pretty town for the most part but has a lively plaza and Sidreria etc. I am now an expert at pouring cider from a bottle above my head into a glass below my waist! . The alburgue is in the govt offices so very institutional in nature and no kitchen. "No eating in the alburgue!" They say as they stamp you in with two carrier bags full of groceries......Clean and tidy though.

On the fifth day I walked the 33km from Pola de Lena to Oviedo which I do not recommend too highly due to there being 25km of tarmac walking and very straight sections following the N630 or along the river. There is also a 500m elevation gain and loss which makes the 33km that much tougher. Maybe I still had the mountain stages causing fatigue but I found it a bind. If you are short of time consider skipping a few towns along the river by hopping on the train that follows the route exactly.

All in all I liked the San Salvador, especially the higher mountain sections or days 2, 3 and 4. More road walking than I anticipated especially on days 1 and 5.

The Primitivo

Pretty tough day after the San Salvador in my legs. Too much road walking. Too many dogs! Dogs all within their property boundary but rabid still the same. I much preferred the dogs in the San Salvador just " Doing their job but tails wagging like mad" . In one day of the Primitivo I've had more dogs bark at me than on all previous caminos combined. Did I say there are loads of dogs? Made me kind of pine for that big 70kg fella below Pajares who was "doing what sheep dogs do" but just wanted to be loved.

Anyway. Great scenery and quite a bit of up and down to complete the stage...31km Oviedo to Dan Juan de la Villapena. Great alburgue by the way.

Second day Villapena to Bodenaya 28km. Very nice walk and plenty of up and down. 400m plus final climb to arrive in Bodenaya. The alburgue is a donativo run by a lovely character "David" who will welcome you warmly with coffee. A log burning stove heated kitchen. Will do your laundry and cook a communal meal all for a donation. Heaven!
 
One way to avoid that hard last day is to sleep in Bendueños in the 5 star donativo albergue run by Sandra. It's about 1.5 km off the camino (you will see a sign pointing you up the hill in the pretty little hamlet of Herias). Sandra convinced the parish to let her turn the abandoned priest's house into an albergue and it is amazing. If you're lucky, you will get inside the church across from the house as well.

Then the next day to Mieres is very do-able (since Bendueños is about 6 km before Campomanes). You can visit Santa Cristina de Lena (a few km after Campomanes), have a late coffee in Pola de Lena, and then walk on to Mieres. The walk from Pola de Lena to Mieres is almost all along the river (except for the first few death-defying kms alongside a heavily traveled narrow road), so it is essentially all asphalt. Mieres is not a pretty town by any means, but it has a great outdoor ambiente. Lots of good restaurants to choose from, too. From Mieres, the next day to Oviedo is a snap.

That would make the stages -- Leon, La Robla (or Pola de Gordón to shorten the next day), Poladura, Bendueños, Mieres, Oviedo. Of course you would then miss the lovely Marisa in the Pajares albergue, so there are no easy choices!!!
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
Not had wifi for a while but here id the final few couple of days account if my San Salvador camino....

Fourth day was Pajares to Pola de Lena. Another spectacular mountain walk descending down (on average) but the route makers have you zig-zagging up snd down the valley sides so as to avoid walking on the N630. So plenty ups as well as mostly down. Massive descent from Pajares (think Roncesvalles x 3 and steeper). Walk is through beautiful lanes and up/down tracks. Plenty of gates to go through on this leg. Also some sheep dogs (70kg booming bark but tail wagging). Harmless...just wants a stroke and to sniff your pack pockets for biscuits etc. The tracks are also deep in leaflitter which would be great if there were not cobbles and boulders lurking under a foot of leaves. Tread lightly. Pola de Lena is not a pretty town for the most part but has a lively plaza and Sidreria etc. I am now an expert at pouring cider from a bottle above my head into a glass below my waist! . The alburgue is in the govt offices so very institutional in nature and no kitchen. "No eating in the alburgue!" They say as they stamp you in with two carrier bags full of groceries......Clean and tidy though.

On the fifth day I walked the 33km from Pola de Lena to Oviedo which I do not recommend too highly due to there being 25km of tarmac walking and very straight sections following the N630 or along the river. There is also a 500m elevation gain and loss which makes the 33km that much tougher. Maybe I still had the mountain stages causing fatigue but I found it a bind. If you are short of time consider skipping a few towns along the river by hopping on the train that follows the route exactly.

All in all I liked the San Salvador, especially the higher mountain sections or days 2, 3 and 4. More road walking than I anticipated especially on days 1 and 5.

The Primitivo

Pretty tough day after the San Salvador in my legs. Too much road walking. Too many dogs! Dogs all within their property boundary but rabid still the same. I much preferred the dogs in the San Salvador just " Doing their job but tails wagging like mad" . In one day of the Primitivo I've had more dogs bark at me than on all previous caminos combined. Did I say there are loads of dogs? Made me kind of pine for that big 70kg fella below Pajares who was "doing what sheep dogs do" but just wanted to be loved.

Anyway. Great scenery and quite a bit of up and down to complete the stage...31km Oviedo to Dan Juan de la Villapena. Great alburgue by the way.

Second day Villapena to Bodenaya 28km. Very nice walk and plenty of up and down. 400m plus final climb to arrive in Bodenaya. The alburgue is a donativo run by a lovely character "David" who will welcome you warmly with coffee. A log burning stove heated kitchen. Will do your laundry and cook a communal meal all for a donation. Heaven!
Thanks for posting about your walk. I am looking forward to experiencing it myself in July!
 
Day 3 Bodeneye to Borres

Day 4 Borres to Berducedo

Day 5 Berducedo to Castro (very good albergue)

Day 6 Castro to Fonsegrada

Primitivo observations so far...

All the munis in Asturias are pretty basic Franco era standard design school buildings now repurposed. All cheap thou at 5€. Muni kitchens very basic, sometimes only a microwave. Usually wery limited utensils and pans plates.

More tarmac walking than I imagined the Primitivo would entail. Elevated sections and almost always having a splended view makes up for tarmac sections though. Many fewer dogs since leaving the Oviedo region.

Very hilly. Feels like you are either climbing or descending and very little flat walking. Superb views and countryside. I would say the Primitivo is not the camino people should choose to do first and they really do need to be fit (no getting fit over the first few days unless you like torture.

Edit-Have added some photos.
 
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Day 3 Bodeneye to Borres

Day 4 Borres to Berducedo

Day 5 Berducedo to Castro (very good albergue)

Day 6 Castro to Fonsegrada

Primitivo observations so far...

All the munis in Asturias are pretty basic Franco era standard design school buildings now repurposed. All cheap thou at 5€. Muni kitchens very basic, sometimes only a microwave. Usually wery limited utensils and pans plates.

More tarmac walking than I imagined the Primitivo would entail. Elevated sections and almost always having a splended view makes up for tarmac sections though. Many fewer dogs since leaving the Oviedo region.

Very hilly. Feels like you are either climbing or descending and very little flat walking. Superb views and countryside. I would say the Primitivo is not the camino people should choose to do first and they really do need to be fit (no getting fit over the first few days unless you like torture.

Edit-Have added some photos.
Thanks for the good info. We start walking the Primitivo on May 14th.
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
The Cantabrica albergue in Fonsegrada is first class. Bed sheets and duvets. Great kitchen. Dishwasher. Loads of washing machines and dryers.

Day 7 Fonsagrada to Castroverde
A newly built modern Muni albergue in Castroverde is very comfortable. Limited kitchen utensils though.

Day 8 Castroverde to Lugo
 
Day 9 Lugo to Ferreira - There is a brand new albergue "a Nave" in Ferreira now. They do a good communal paella meal (will post photo).

Day 10 Ferreira to Ribadiso

Day 11 Ribadiso to O Pedrouso

Day 12 O Pedrouso to Santiago

Best Primitivo albergues were San Juan de la Villapena, Bodenaya, Castro, Fonsegrada albergue Cantabrica, Castroverde, a Nave in Ferreira.

Will post some photos....
Whole trip was:

Frances

Day 1 Logrono to Najera

Day 2 Najera to Santa Domingo

Day 3 Santa Domingo to Belorado

Day 4 Belorado to Ages

Day 5 Ages to Burgos

Day 6 Burgos to Hon tanas

Day 7 Hontanas to Boadilla

Day 8 Boadilla to Carrion de los Condes

Day 9 Carrion de los Condes to Terradillos de los Templarios

Day 10 Templarios to El Burgo Ranero

Day 11 El Burgo Ranero to Leon

San Salvador

Day 1 Leon to La Robla

Day 2 La Robla to Poladura de la Tercia

Day 3 Poladura de la Tercia to Pajares

Day 4 Pajares to Pola de Lena

Day 5 Pola de Lena to Oviedo

Primitivo

Day 1 Oviedo to San Juan

Day 2 San Juan de la Villapena to Bodenaya

Day 3 Bodenaya to Borres

Day 4 Borres to Berducedo

Day 5 Berducedo to Castro

Day 6 Castro to Fonsagrada

Day 7 Fonsagrada to Castroverde

Day 8 Castroverde to Lugo

Day 9 Lugo to Ferreira

Day 10 Ferreira to Ribadiso

Day 11 Ribadiso to O Pedrouso

Day 12 O Pedrouso to Santiago
 
Forgot to say that I had no rain in a month of walking and only 3 cloudy days! Maybe a minor miracle in April? Raining now in Santiago though!

Edit - And responding to Trecile's initial post on this thread I'd say my daily distances were not excessive. The Salvador DOES need 5 days as a minimum to do. Doing both the San Salvador and Primitivo will give you mountain legs after your training stretch SJPdP to Leon. I remember when we walked into Finisterre together 2016 that you were pretty fit so I'm sure you will have no problems. Lots of pain and plenty of gain in the route combination. You will love it.
 
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St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Its been great to read your post, thank you. I am doing the Portuguese from Porto to Santiago then catching the bus to Leon to do the Salvador then catching bus from Oviedo to Villaviciosa and starting the Primitivo from there. I did the Norte last year and so I want to start the Primitivo where I passed through last year on the Primitivo.
I shall definitely be staying at Benduenos Peregrino200, all the information I have read sounds like it is un-missable.
I shall be starting the Portuguese on 31/5, Salvador 10th June and Primitivo at Villaviciosa 15 June.
 

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