Third time on Via de la Plata this April

[Albertagirl]

I shall be walking on the VdlP for the third time this year, in a very different way from my previous walks. My first walk: from Seville to Santiago in the autumn, was straight through with no days off, little time to rush through the major cities, and no off-route adventures to visit interesting locations. A longing to spend time in Zamora has remained in me ever since. This year, I am going to Spain in the spring, leaving on March 28th and spending the first half of April as a hospitalera in Calzadilla de los Hermanillos before beginning my walk.
My second walk on the VdlP was the last section of my walk on the Levante: once again, only one night in Zamora on my way through to Santiago. As I pondered this year's plans for Zamora, I realized that I can use my walking time this year to fill in what I missed on previous walks. I have no particular urge to start in Seville again, but I really want to spend some time in Merida wandering around to enjoy the many reminders of Roman times which remain there. After I leave Merida, the next day I shall head for the detour to Santa Maria del Trampal, a 7th century church which I did not choose to leave my route to visit on my last time through. A few days later I can walk a new Via Verde, which passes through Hervas, a town which I decided not to go off route to visit when I passed nearby previously. I am moving into a new style of pilgrimage. Yes, I am going to Santiago, but I shall pause, or take a short detour, to enjoy what meets me along the way.

 

[Albertagirl]

My planning is progressing- just as well, as I leave in ten days. I spent much of last night musing about the 33 km. walk from Casar de Caceres to Canaveral: my longest day with no accommodation. The pilgrim hostel at the Embalse is closed and the fishing guest house does not take pilgrims, both situations exactly as they were when I last walked the VdlP. Consulting my detailed planning list, I find that it will be late April when I walk this section of the route, so I can hope for comfortable temperatures. If I carry enough water, all should be well, and no more over 30 km. days. I remind myself that my 75th birthday will take place earlier in April and I am not in the best shape, with cold winter days in Calgary discouraging long walks. I shall be out for a walk with a friend this afternoon, and no more public transit until I leave, if the distance is doable.

 

[auburnfive]

Keeping you in my thoughts, hope your approach makes for a peaceful and relaxed walk

 

[WanderingNotLost]

My planning is progressing- just as well, as I leave in ten days. I spent much of last night musing about the 33 km. walk from Casar de Caceres to Canaveral: my longest day with no accommodation. The pilgrim hostel at the Embalse is closed and the fishing guest house does not take pilgrims, both situations exactly as they were when I last walked the VdlP. Consulting my detailed planning list, I find that it will be late April when I walk this section of the route, so I can hope for comfortable temperatures. If I carry enough water, all should be well, and no more over 30 km. days. I remind myself that my 75th birthday will take place earlier in April and I am not in the best shape, with cold winter days in Calgary discouraging long walks. I shall be out for a walk with a friend this afternoon, and no more public transit until I leave, if the distance is doable.

Our paths might cross. My "loosely planned" itinerary has me stepping out of Seville on 4/16 and walking the Casar de Caceres to Carnaveral leg on 4/28. But you know what they say about the "best laid plans". If we do bump into each other I promise you a smile, and any support you request. While I'm guilty of "wandering", I've never been "lost. And I've never met a stranger. Simply made a new friend. Don't be afraid if you find me talking to the animals. I'm not crazy. Simply a few beers short of a 6-pack.

Peace, Love, & Ultreia

 

[Peregrinopaul]

My planning is progressing- just as well, as I leave in ten days. I spent much of last night musing about the 33 km. walk from Casar de Caceres to Canaveral: my longest day with no accommodation. The pilgrim hostel at the Embalse is closed and the fishing guest house does not take pilgrims, both situations exactly as they were when I last walked the VdlP. Consulting my detailed planning list, I find that it will be late April when I walk this section of the route, so I can hope for comfortable temperatures. If I carry enough water, all should be well, and no more over 30 km. days. I remind myself that my 75th birthday will take place earlier in April and I am not in the best shape, with cold winter days in Calgary discouraging long walks. I shall be out for a walk with a friend this afternoon, and no more public transit until I leave, if the distance is doable.

It has long been customary for many walkers to take a taxi from Castilblanco to the National Park gate in order to cut down the km on that stretch to Amaden. I don't know if there is a taxi in Casar, but if so it might be an idea to get a ride to the Embalse Bridge, and take it from there. Peace of mind.

 

[Corned Beef]

There is a train station at Caceres and one at Canaveral. According to Renfe, there is a 06:15 out of Caceres which arrives at Canaveral at 06:48. It's the 17021 Regional Express to Atocha.

One to have as a backup.

 

[camino07]

I took a bus last April from Caceres to Hostel Malaga in Canaveral, So glad I did. Ill be 76 this May while on the Portuguese from Lisbon. All the best Albertagirl.

 

[C clearly]

I don't know if there is a taxi in Casar, but if so it might be an idea to get a ride to the Embalse Bridge, and take it from there.

The problem is that you would then skip the nice part of the stage. I have heard of some people arranging a taxi from Cañaveral to pick them up at the Embalse. However, that arrangement is a bit trickier, especially if one doesn't speak much Spanish.

 

[peregrina2000]

The pilgrim hostel at the Embalse is closed

I heard from the former albergue operator last fall that they were looking for someone new to run the albergue, but that they also had not yet solved the problems with the plumbing/water/sewage that have plagued the place for years. I have written to him again to see if he has any updates — even though he is no longer associated with it, maybe he’ll have some info.

For @Albertagirl and others walking the Vdlp this year, I can’t resist sounding like a school marm and reminding people not to walk on the highway out of Cáceres. On a workday early morning, it is terrifying. The steady stream of cars coming to work in Cáceres put you in danger frequently — the worst part is when you see a car passing a car coming towards you and you just pray both stay in their lanes…..

Anyway, I beieve the route has now been remarked, but I really urge people not to shave the few kms off by taking the narrow, busy road with little in the way of shoulders.

This thread describes the much better option.

 

[peregrina2000]

It has long been customary for many walkers to take a taxi from Castilblanco to the National Park gate in order to cut down the km on that stretch to Amaden. I don't know if there is a taxi in Casar, but if so it might be an idea to get a ride to the Embalse Bridge, and take it from there. Peace of mind.

I don’t see any taxi operation in Casar de Cáceres, they must rely on Cáceres operators. But there is one in Cañaveral, Taxis Serrano.

Tel. +34 639 86 73 36

It’s a married couple, Carmen and César, and I got a quick WhatsApp back saying they can come pick people up. Since they use WhatsApp, communication need not be oral. Even if they don’t speak English, I’m sure someone here on the forum would help people out. The turn-off for the embalse would be the obvious place to ask for a pick-up. But you will need some data to be able to WhatsApp them from the road.

 

[Albertagirl]

Thank you to all for so many helpful suggestions. Like WanderingNotLost, I am currently planning on walking from Casar de Caseres to Canaveral on April 28. We might meet along the way (did you mean, "a few beers over a six pack?) I am beginning to consider Corned Beef's and Camino07's suggestions to take a train or bus from Caceras to Canaveral. This would allow me to avoid the dangerous section of road after Caceras and the long stretch of walking from from Casar de Caceres to Canaveral, as well as giving me a couple of extra days when I could either slow down or spend more time in Merida and/or Zamora, both cities which I should like to experience in a leisurely manner. As this is my second pilgrimage on the VdlP, I don't feel obliged to walk every kilometre: been there, done that. But I think that I shall let this go until the time comes and act according to where my energy is. Wish me well, my friends.

 

[WanderingNotLost]

Thank you to all for so many helpful suggestions. Like WanderingNotLost, I am currently planning on walking from Casar de Caseres to Canaveral on April 28. We might meet along the way (did you mean, "a few beers over a six pack?) I am beginning to consider Corned Beef's and Camino07's suggestions to take a train or bus from Caceras to Canaveral. This would allow me to avoid the dangerous section of road after Caceras and the long stretch of walking from from Casar de Caceres to Canaveral, as well as giving me a couple of extra days when I could either slow down or spend more time in Merida and/or Zamora, both cities which I should like to experience in a leisurely manner. As this is my second pilgrimage on the VdlP, I don't feel obliged to walk every kilometre: been there, done that. But I think that I shall let this go until the time comes and act according to where my energy is. Wish me well, my friends.

Albertagirl,
No I meant "short of a 6-pack". I guess it's an American type of expression indicating one is not "all there". Others: a few eggs short of a dozen. A few bricks short of a pallet.

I'm living proof that sanity is often overrated. I enjoy living life just a little "off". It's much more fun.

Bringing joy to others through laughter is 1 of my 3 daily goals. Learning something new about the natural world around us, and the people we encounter is another. Helping someone without being asked, expecting nor accepting anything in return completes my daily trifecta.

I'm looking forward to walking the Caceras to Carnaveral part even more after reading the posts of others who have left their footprints over the years. The now well documented walk around to avoid the roadside portion as you leave Caceras is straightforward. (when you come to the circle leaving town, cross the road toward your left and follow the dirt trail bearing left. Based on Google maps satellite view, the path appears to loop up and around a few hills, eventually angling back toward the main road where there is a path off the roadway to follow. (see Peregrina2000 post above with link)
I'll leave early, enjoy the sun rise, walking at a comfortable pace. As this will be my 9th Camino, never sleeping outside, I never worry about finding somewhere to rest my head. While initial ideas don't always go as "planned", I have faith the Camino will always provide what is truly needed.

 

[Bradypus]

I'll leave early, enjoy the sun rise, walking at a comfortable pace. As this will be my 9th Camino, never sleeping outside, I never worry about finding somewhere to rest my head. While initial ideas don't always go as "planned", I have faith the Camino will always provide what is truly needed.

Have any of your previous Caminos been on the VdlP, the Mozarabe or another of the less-walked southern routes? It really is a very different experience from the Frances, the Portugues or the other northern Caminos. Occasional very long stages with no services. The Casar de Caseres to Cañaveral stage can be extremely challenging in hot weather - especially if the albergue at the reservoir is closed. No drinking water available for close on 30km. Planning ahead is vital. Not so long since a young and fit man died from heat-related causes a few km short of Cañaveral. I strongly advise you to err on the side of caution in deciding how much water you carry.

 

[WanderingNotLost]

Have any of your previous Caminos been on the VdlP, the Mozarabe or another of the less-walked southern routes? It really is a very different experience from the Frances, the Portugues or the other northern Caminos. Occasional very long stages with no services. The Casar de Caseres to Cañaveral stage can be extremely challenging in hot weather - especially if the albergue at the reservoir is closed. No drinking water available for close on 30km. Planning ahead is vital. Not so long since a young and fit man died from heat-related causes a few km short of Cañaveral. I strongly advise you to err on the side of caution in deciding how much water you carry.

Thank you for your concern. I had read about the pilgrim who passed away on the VDLP.

My planning has taken all the things you mentioned into account. I'll be carry at least 3 liters of water everyday and appropriate food, with enough to share if someone I encounter is in need; while also factoring in time and day of week when intermediate facilities might not be open when passing through.

While this will be my first time on the Seville to Salamanca portion of the VDLP (I have walked from Salamanca VDLP/Sanabres).

Thanks to all the fantastic information shared on this forum, I'm being extra careful with my planning. While +35km days are normal for me, this journey I'll be staging days very carefully to avoid back to back long days. Especially when elevation changes and heat factors must be managed. As an example, for the portion we are discussing, my plan is to walk Valdesalor to Casar de Caceres (23K) then next day to Canaveral (33K)

I have planned 46 days to walk from Seville to Muxia and I'm not so set in my ways that I won't use other means of transportation when appropriate.

Simply as a side note. In 2017 while walking the CP from Lisbon with a Vietnam Vet I brought with me, we experienced +40C temps for more than a week. Yes, at one point we were only approx. 30km from the tragic fires. I always err on the side of caution. Even more so after that experience. I greatly appreciate your thoughtful reminder.

 

[Albertagirl]

I have been considering where to officially begin my camino on the VdlP this year by getting my first stamp in a credencial. As I shall be on a walking pilgrimage and shall begin to walk in Merida, the logical place would be somewhere in Merida. As this is, for me, a pilgrimage, I feel that I should begin it formally in a church, as I have begun all my previous caminos. But I have not found any mention of a church in Kelly's recent guide to the VdlP. Any suggestions?

 

[peregrina2000]

I have been considering where to officially begin my camino on the VdlP this year by getting my first stamp in a credencial. As I shall be on a walking pilgrimage and shall begin to walk in Merida, the logical place would be somewhere in Merida. As this is, for me, a pilgrimage, I feel that I should begin it formally in a church, as I have begun all my previous caminos. But I have not found any mention of a church in Kelly's recent guide to the VdlP. Any suggestions?

There is a concathedral in Mérida (I’ve never really figured out what that word means, but Cáceres has one too — it must be some ranking that puts it slightly “below” a cathedral), which is from the 17th C I believe. For me a church with an environment more conducive to reflection and contemplation is the smaller Santa Eulalia (dedicated to an early Christian martyr from Mérida), and an early Christian crypt below. There is also a fairly elaborate Roman fountain right outside the church. This church is not as centrally located as the concatedral, though, so that may be a negative.

 

[Bradypus]

There is a concathedral in Mérida (I’ve never really figured out what that word means, but Cáceres has one too — it must be some ranking that puts it slightly “below” a cathedral),

Wikipedia explains the idea of a co-cathedral. Often when a diocese has two major centres of similar size or influence and marks this by having an episcopal base in both towns. In this case the other cathedral is in Badajoz.

Co-cathedral - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

 

[Albertagirl]

Thanks to both of you. I have found the Concatedral de Santa Maria la Mayor right next to the camino route, close to Hostal Senero, where I am considering staying, and fairly close to the pilgrim albergue along the river bank where I stayed on my previous walk on the VdlP. The Estacion de Autobuses where I am planniing to arrive in Merida (bus ticket from Seville already purchased) is also close, but on the opposite side of the river. I am hoping that this church, as having some responsibilities of a cathedral, will have sufficient opening hours for me to be able to enter, and a stamp for my credencial. The Basilica of Santa Eulalia is next to the train station, and appears to be a more interesting structure, especially the crypt. I hope to visit it as well during my time in Merida.