- Camino(s) past & future
- CF(10,11,17), Vasco(12), Salvador(13), CP(13), CN(14), Madrid (16), Mozarabe (18), VdlP(19)
I sure was!!!! Because Sabine wss so incredibly kind to take some of my things, I could walk today with kilos less on my back. And it made a huge difference. All the same I missrd her wonderful company...she IS a true peregrina!
The path was very well waymarked, both on the way up and only slightly less on the way down. Some of the waymarking looked pretty new, in fact.
Day 5 Zegama to Salvaterria 21.9
Part 1...too many photos!
The surprise of the day was that this stage was a challenge but not as bad as I feared it would be.
And aiyiyi, what a day!!!
It is probably my most beautiful and interesting camino day ever. It ticked all the boxes: historical interest, natural beauty, mountains, and being an old and 'authenic' route.
And...if you come this way, do heed the warnings to bring enough water and pay attention to where you are going, and where you put your feet. Being lost up there could be real trouble. And a bad fall, ditto.
So the way up was steady uphill after the first km or so, with a few breaks higher up. The path started out paved, but soon became dirt, going up through oak and maple woodland and pasture, higher up going through some amazing stands of very old beech in bright new leaf on one side and more somber larch and conifers on the other. Unerfoot were the many wildflowers, including some stunning orchids and wierd purple legumes with purple flowers erupting straight out of the ground.
The path emerged at the Ermita de Sancti Spiritu, which was beautiful but deserted; right around the corner the path crosses pasture and the view ahead opened up to the tunnel ahead.
I stayed there for a while, and can't quite capture the experience in words. The clearing of the fog, the chatter of the many swallows as they flashed in and out, imagining all that have passed through here, and all the work this road has seen. Not to mention what it myst have taken to build it.
On the other side of the short tunnel, the calzada romana was astonishingly good shape after almost two millenia of summers and winters. What will our autovias look like in that much time?
It continued uphill for about a km, and then headed steadily down through beautiful beech forest, contouring along one side of a valley, crossing the stream and then going down the other side. Much was eventually on a forestry road, so the walking was easy. It seemed cooler on this side of the mountain, and the oaks and maples were just coming into leaf.
And then at the bottom, emerging into a whole different world - villages that were Spanish rather than Basque, and wide open spaces with broad fields of ripening wheat and vistas of mountains.
Photos...too many for one post! It was a gorgeous day.
A big thank you to Sabine for making ease possible...I was so sorry she missed this.
My pictures were a little different.
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