Undecided...

[Ferenjinan]

Usually I'm never this undecided, but I cannot seem to choose between Le Puy and Vezelay routes in September. I'd like to be having lots of solitude while walking and not terribly long distances between stages; accommodation without constant fears of finding everything full; and some other pilgrims to be around form time to time.
When they say the start from Le Puy is arduous, what does this mean? Steep hills? How steep? ( I live in the Indian Himalayas at 1800m, and every day one walks up and down steep paths and stairs, schlepping the groceries etc on one's back) I did the Frances 10 years ago, averaging a mere 20 km per day because I like to walk slowly and smell the flowers, and the stages the guide book warned of being difficult kept me looking around to see where these hard bits had been.... but that was 10 years ago, eh, and the knees are somewhat older.

 

[TMcA]

I am only familiar with the Le Puy route. I have hiked some of the more difficult stages twice. They are strenuous, but not difficult if your background is hiking in mountains. "Difficult" where I live is a two or three mile ascent with 1000 feet of elevation gain per mile. I would estimate that the Le Puy route has a few sections of elevation gain/descent that are steep, but they are not miles long.

September is busy on this route. If you are hiking solo, you could try and not phone ahead for reservations. Or just ask the tourist office in Le Puy to call some of the first gîtes you might stay at and see whether a reservation is required. Keep in mind that making a reservation enables the gîte owners to have a count for the evening meal.

My wife and I hiked in September and the trail was somewhat "busy". We encountered other hikers on the trail, but I would guess that the numbers fall off after Conques. This was in 2013 and we did reserve ahead.

I cannot comment on the Vézelay route.

Good luck and bon chemin.

Tom

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I have done both, and the legs on the Vezelay have almost no intermediate stopping points. The Le Puy route has more pilgrims; that is, the Vezelay has few pilgrims, so Le Puy has a lot by comparison. September is the month when French walkers have finished walking, so you should not find much crowding. Both are very interesting. Le Puy crosses lots of ridges, so there is more up and down, but Vezelay is not flat. The two meet at Ostabat, so the last day is the same. You will need to stay in B&B's on the Vezelay, so calling ahead is necessary. Calling ahead on the Le Puy is necessary because the French pilgrims call ahead, and you will be competing with them for a bed. In many places you can go to the tourist office at the end of the day to find a bed. Keep in mind the work hours in France, so that the Tourist Office may be closed, and probably will be closed on Sunday and Monday.

 

[MichelleElynHogan]

Sometimes, fresh eyes are needed. Taking time to smell the flowers, no path on the Camino, regardless of location, should be difficult. We are walking. Technical climbing could be difficult but I do not see this to be difficult for you. Your environment has not changed in the last ten years, yes?

When the path becomes a challenge, personally, that is the best time to smell more flowers. Have faith.

 

[Kitsambler]

First of all, there is no bad choice here. Walk one route this year, and the other at some point in the future. The local geography is only one part of the pilgrim experience. What you bring counts just as much.
And secondly, if you are accustomed to carrying groceries in the Himalayas, you will not find the Le Puy difficult. There is a climb coming out of Le Puy, descent/climb at Monistrol where the river cut a gorge in the plateau, and descent at Conques. These average a couple hours each, and are only notable because they were built in the Roman style, going straight rather than using switchbacks. You'll be fine either way.

 

[gittiharre]

Usually I'm never this undecided, but I cannot seem to choose between Le Puy and Vezelay routes in September. I'd like to be having lots of solitude while walking and not terribly long distances between stages; accommodation without constant fears of finding everything full; and some other pilgrims to be around form time to time.
When they say the start from Le Puy is arduous, what does this mean? Steep hills? How steep? ( I live in the Indian Himalayas at 1800m, and every day one walks up and down steep paths and stairs, schlepping the groceries etc on one's back) I did the Frances 10 years ago, averaging a mere 20 km per day because I like to walk slowly and smell the flowers, and the stages the guide book warned of being difficult kept me looking around to see where these hard bits had been.... but that was 10 years ago, eh, and the knees are somewhat older.

There is accommodation about every 16 km on Le Puy route and it is beautiful. My husband walked the whole route in 2012 aged 81. I have heard Vezelay Route has long stages and quite a few villages with dwindling population.

 

[MichaelC]

I'd like to be having lots of solitude while walking and not terribly long distances between stages; accommodation without constant fears of finding everything full; and some other pilgrims to be around form time to time.

A phrase I head a lot on the Via Podiensis were variations on chacun suit son chemin ... everyone follows their own route. Pilgrims tended to spread out more, and I found lots of time for solitary walking and reflection. It was still a very warm and social route; the culture seemed to be one of: we walk alone, but gather for meals.

I made reservations ahead of time for the first five days, though the three would have been enough. After that I would call the night before, or have the gîte owner call for me. There were never issues with finding everything full until we approached Saint Jean, when we encountered large groups for the first time.

 

[Ferenjinan]

A phrase I head a lot on the Via Podiensis were variations on chacun suit son chemin ... everyone follows their own route. Pilgrims tended to spread out more, and I found lots of time for solitary walking and reflection. It was still a very warm and social route; the culture seemed to be one of: we walk alone, but gather for meals.

I made reservations ahead of time for the first five days, though the three would have been enough. After that I would call the night before, or have the gîte owner call for me. There were never issues with finding everything full until we approached Saint Jean, when we encountered large groups for the first time.

Thanks, very much appreciated info. Think I'm leaning towards Le Puy.

 

[Ferenjinan]

There is accommodation about every 16 km on Le Puy route and it is beautiful. My husband walked the whole route in 2012 aged 81. I have heard Vezelay Route has long stages and quite a few villages with dwindling population.

Cor Blimey, I'm only going to turn 70 somewhere along the way. A mere spring chicken.

 

[Marie Christian]

I walked Le Puys to Conques alone last June in 40 degrees temperature. Met some lovely people but not many and there was no problem with reserving hostels as most were private and expensive compared to Spain. You will have no problem with the steep parts of the path as you are used to them, but the signs are not always obvious: very few "CAMINO" signs but GR+number (I think it is 65) regularly marked. Le Puys to Conques is extremely beautiful and I highly recommand it.

 

[Kanga]

Le Puy if you want infrastructure.

 

[Ferenjinan]

Le Puy if you want infrastructure.

If you stay in a gite are you required to eat there? Can you cook for yourself or just munch on food purchased at shops (if/when you find them). I'm a vegetarian.

 

[Kitsambler]

These are actually three different questions.

I'm a vegetarian.

Since you call ahead to make gite reservations, just let your host know. You will be attended to - and you are not the first vegetarian pilgrim to come down the pike. There are many other threads here on vegetarians and the Le Puy, if you use the Search.

If you stay in a gite are you required to eat there?

No, but there may not be many alternatives.

Can you cook for yourself or just munch on food purchased at shops (if/when you find them).

The French are rather possessive about their kitchens, if they offer demi-pension, generally you cannot use the kitchen. If it is not demi-pension, sometimes you can cook. Consult MMD for details. Yes you can munch, but not in the dining room where demi-pension meals are served.

 

[Marie Christian]

Most places I stayed were private homes opened to pilgrims and they provided a meal so did not permit cooking. However, a couple of places were run by somebody in the village who opened and closed the house and there was a kitchen where I could cook. The best thing is enquire when you make a reservation.