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Valcarlos/Napoleon and start date

Eve Alexandra

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
2017 Astorga-SDC, April 2022 SJPP-Muxia
I booked my flight. I can start either March 31 or April 1. Those of you who have done this route many times...do you think its worth the gamble to start on April 1, in hopes that the Napoleon route might be open? Or would you just plan on Valcarlos?
 
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I've heard the weather up there can go either way during seasonal changes (winter giving way to early spring). I'd say plan for Valcarlos, and be pleasantly surprised if the weather allows for the Napoleon route. I've done both and really loved Valcarlos...quiet, peaceful and less traversed.
 
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I've heard the weather up there can go either way during seasonal changes (winter giving away to early spring). I'd say plan for Valcarlos, and be pleasantly surprised if the weather allows for the Napoleon route. I've done both and really loved Valcarlos...quiet, peaceful and less traversed.

So would you book Orisson just in case?
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I’ve walked both routes and each is great! However, if this is your first trip over the Pyrenees, hope for good weather so as to be able to take the Napoleon Route. I had the great luck of crossing on a perfectly clear date in late April. The views were tremendous! Two days later, pilgrims were crossing is a snow storm. But, having taken the Valcarlos Route just two years ago, I can tell you that just crossing the Pyrenees on your first day on your Camino is grand regardless of the route. You will experience a tremendous sense of accomplishment and be quite ready for a cold celebratory beer in Roncesvalles.
 
Okay. Thank you. I’ll get my train/bus situation figured out, see what time/day I will arrive in SJPP and then make a judgment call. I’m sure both routes are stunning. I won’t be bummed if I take the Valcarlos route.
 
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I booked my flight. I can start either March 31 or April 1. Those of you who have done this route many times...do you think its worth the gamble to start on April 1, in hopes that the Napoleon route might be open? Or would you just plan on Valcarlos?
Hola, the weather on the Napoleon can be questionable at any time of the year. In May 2017 I planned to walk the napoleon with an overnight stay at Orisson. But the weather turned nasty so I took the Valcarlos route. Buen Camino
 
So would you book Orisson just in case?
Yes, although a friend who walked in early April said that Orisson wasn't taking reservations at the beginning of April. They wanted people to call a day or two ahead to see if they would be open.
If they do take your reservation, then have to close for weather I believe that they will refund you.
 
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Okay. Thank you. I’ll get my train/bus situation figured out, see what time/day I will arrive in SJPP and then make a judgment call. I’m sure both routes are stunning. I won’t be bummed if I take the Valcarlos route.
I am a lover of the Valcarlos route as there is a village or two to see along the way, food options, and more variety of terrain. I love breaking up the first day by staying overnight in Valcarlos, and the shorter second day assures I've arrived in Roncesvalles ahead of the others...oh, and I will mention it provides a more peaceful, quiet and contemplative walk if that is your cup of tea.
OTOH, I would not discourage anyone from taking the Napoleon if they are looking forward to the experience. The Pilgrim's Office in SJPdP has the most up to date weather reports and expertise in recommending if, or if not, one should take the Napoleon route or opt for the Valcarlos.
 
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I am a lover of the Valcarlos route as there is a village or two to see along the way, food options, and more variety of terrain.
OTOH, I would not discourage anyone from taking ithe Napoleon if they are looking forward to the experience. The Pilgrim's Office in SJPdP has the most up to date weather reports and expertise in recommending if, or if not, one should take the Napoleon route or opt for the Valcarlos.

Maybe, given this and @trecile ’s comment that they don’t like to take reservations early, I’ll just wait a bit.

I also kind of like the idea of seeing a little bit of French villages beyond SJPP.

I’ve never been to France before. Whatever happens, this is a reboot of my last minute canceled 2020 Camino and I’m just so grateful to be going. Extremely nervous, and nowhere near as prepared mentally or physically as I was in 2020. C’est la vie.

I’ll likely be on the treadmill more often than not for the next several weeks. 😆
 
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It is not so much the weather that may be a problem at the beginning of April. It’s the condition of the trail at altitude. There may be still too much snow. This is what the pilgrims office can tell you.

The gîte Orisson now has a notice on their website: If the path through the mountain is not passable we will transport you by minibus after breakfast along the valley road to the Spanish village of Valcarlos.

They also say on their website that there are no refunds.
 
There may be still too much snow. This is what the pilgrims office can tell you.
Exactly. I stayed at Corazon Puro, east of Pamplona, before my first Camino Frances started in mid-April 2015. At the communal dinner that night, a married couple mentioned they had to stay overnight at a stone hut the night before, being caught out in snow, and another man from England had been slipping on icy snow going up and over the Napoleon that same day. I then made my decision the next morning when Istvan drove us to SJPdP, that the Valcarlos route was the safer option. I wasn't walking the Camino to prove anything to myself, nor potentially taking any unneeded risk to possibly hurt myself.
 
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The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Okay. Thank you. I’ll get my train/bus situation figured out, see what time/day I will arrive in SJPP and then make a judgment call. I’m sure both routes are stunning. I won’t be bummed if I take the Valcarlos route.
I've had it go both ways. I booked Orisson in 2016, and the mountain was clear enough to walk the Napolean, so we did. Two years later, we pulled into Orisson in foul weather. The next morning, we were told that the pass was not safe, and they bussed us (no charge) over to Valcarlos to make the crossing to Roncesvalles. You gamble nothing by booking Orisson, but you won't know until the morning what conditions are. You don't need to know in advance, go with the flow.
 
I booked my flight. I can start either March 31 or April 1. Those of you who have done this route many times...do you think its worth the gamble to start on April 1, in hopes that the Napoleon route might be open? Or would you just plan on Valcarlos?
With the weather one never knows. I planned my travel on April 13, 2018 and the Napoleon route was closed so I went via Valcarlos. I heard it opened up again a few days later. I think April 1 is pushing it for Napoleon route but if mother nature cooperates you should be fine. FYI I found the Valcarlos route to be extremely challenging, it was raining so very slippery and muddy as you climb through the forest and the steepest part is the second half to Roncesvalles. Whereas I believe the Napoleon route is steeper at the beginning which probably would have been better for me at least. I did do it all in one day and it almost got the better of me.
 
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I was reading that earlier today. I mentioned in another discussion here today that my relationship with Catholicism is complicated. Lourdes is not for me. :) Maybe Le Puy someday, though.
I would heartily recommend Le Puy to SJPdP, especially if, as you mentioned earlier, you'd like a taste of French village life. And by "taste" I mean the best food I have eaten on any walking or cycling adventure, anywhere, ever!
 
Maybe, given this and @trecile ’s comment that they don’t like to take reservations early, I’ll just wait a bit.

I also kind of like the idea of seeing a little bit of French villages beyond SJPP.

I’ve never been to France before. Whatever happens, this is a reboot of my last minute canceled 2020 Camino and I’m just so grateful to be going. Extremely nervous, and nowhere near as prepared mentally or physically as I was in 2020. C’est la vie.

I’ll likely be on the treadmill more often than not for the next several weeks. 😆
I believe that April 1 is the opening date for the Napoleon route. I would check with the Pilgrim office either the night before or when they open in the morning if you have any doubt about the weather.
In 2015 I walked from Le Puy. I got to St. Jean in early October. My friend and I planned on spending just the night and leaving the next morning. The next day it wasn't that cold but there were strong winds and pouring rain. As we looked out the door of the room we were staying in (it was on the street that the Pilgrim office is on) there were lots of pilgrims slogging through. We say a pilgrim from the restaurant we had dinner the night before. He looked at us with very puzzled. Why aren't you guys getting ready to walk, its a long day. I said to him, we have both walked before. It is an absolute s*%t show here. It is going to rain like this all day. If it is bad here we can't imagine what a mess it will be up in the mountains. We are going back to bed.
We stayed one more night and discovered the Beilari Albergue a few doors down. Had a great time there. Love that albergue. Fantastic communal dinner and spirit. Met someone I am still friends with all these years later. The next morning we left with our big bag of amazing French pastries and headed up under sunny skies. After walking from Le Puy the hill up to Orisson was (excuse my French) a piece of cake.
We met a few pilgrims later on who walked that rainy morning and they said it was absolute hell all day.
To make a really long story really short. Check the weather before you go.
 
I believe that April 1 is the opening date for the Napoleon route. I would check with the Pilgrim office either the night before or when they open in the morning if you have any doubt about the weather.
In 2015 I walked from Le Puy. I got to St. Jean in early October. My friend and I planned on spending just the night and leaving the next morning. The next day it wasn't that cold but there were strong winds and pouring rain. As we looked out the door of the room we were staying in (it was on the street that the Pilgrim office is on) there were lots of pilgrims slogging through. We say a pilgrim from the restaurant we had dinner the night before. He looked at us with very puzzled. Why aren't you guys getting ready to walk, its a long day. I said to him, we have both walked before. It is an absolute s*%t show here. It is going to rain like this all day. If it is bad here we can't imagine what a mess it will be up in the mountains. We are going back to bed.
We stayed one more night and discovered the Beilari Albergue a few doors down. Had a great time there. Love that albergue. Fantastic communal dinner and spirit. Met someone I am still friends with all these years later. The next morning we left with our big bag of amazing French pastries and headed up under sunny skies. After walking from Le Puy the hill up to Orisson was (excuse my French) a piece of cake.
We met a few pilgrims later on who walked that rainy morning and they said it was absolute hell all day.
To make a really long story really short. Check the weather before you go.
Really good point. I’ve got the time to avoid a terrible weather day, if necessary. Thank you.
 
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I booked my flight. I can start either March 31 or April 1. Those of you who have done this route many times...do you think its worth the gamble to start on April 1, in hopes that the Napoleon route might be open? Or would you just plan on Valcarlos?

Almost everyone walks to Roncesvalles the first day. More than 90%. I tried booking Orrison once but arrived 10:00 am and cancelled when I got there because it was too early to stop. They didn't complain about it at all. The excitement the first day really drives you foreward.
 
Booking at any time,removes so much adventure. Know that if the Napoleon Route is still closed, Valcarlos should be and will be the best way to go. In fact, for new Peregrinos, Valcarlos Route is the best first choice for the first day. It is also the safest route all year long.
 
We've hiked both routes twice and enjoyed each one. Each time we start CF in mid-Sept and arrive in Santiago late October. We generally leave St Jean around 7 am and arrive in Roncesvalles by 3 pm. My wife may not join me in 2023 due to the stress fracture she developed last fall. I may start in Pamplona next time. Bob
 
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Almost everyone walks to Roncesvalles the first day. More than 90%.
I’m on the 🐢 plan. 😆 I’m determined to do that “start like an old woman and finish like a younger one” thing. I’m okay with not sticking with the same ppl all the way. Super introverted. I’ll either stop in Orisson or Valcarlos.
 
I’m on the 🐢 plan. 😆 I’m determined to do that “start like an old woman and finish like a younger one” thing. I’m okay with not sticking with the same ppl all the way. Super introverted. I’ll either stop in Orisson or Valcarlos.
Also, the Pyrenees area is beautiful - no reason to rush through it!
 
A guide to speaking Spanish on the Camino - enrich your pilgrim experience.
I booked my flight. I can start either March 31 or April 1. Those of you who have done this route many times...do you think its worth the gamble to start on April 1, in hopes that the Napoleon route might be open? Or would you just plan on Valcarlos?
That's a decision is best made that day.
 
I’ve never suffered from the urge to hike the Route Napoleon. My Grandfather’s opinion was that hills were nice to look at but should only be undertaken out of necessity. As he taught me which fungi to harvest, how to cache a rabbit and the value of a friend in any town I’ve always gone along with Grandad.
I like Valcarlos. It sits there, content, pilgrims are of passing interest but not it’s be and end all. The afternoon train from Bayonne gets you into StJ in plenty of time to collect a stamp from the Bureau Pelerin and stroll to Valcarlos. The opportunity remains for a quiet evening, a decent meal before “The Camino” begins
 
I have walked the both routes. The ValCarlos twice. Once just passed through the town and continued to Roncesvalles. The second time I didn't leave Saint Jean until about noon, having slept in, ate breakfast and roamed about, shaking off jet lag and when I reached ValCarlos I stayed there. The first one there that day and in total only about six of us. Lovely little town with places to eat and drink, a grocery store and overall a very laid back vibe.
 
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One big plus for all those who prefer to walk the lesser walked paths and/or prefer not to be part of the horde: if the route Napoleon is open, almost nobody will walk via Valcarlos. I met 3 other pilgrims in 2017 in june... it was a very nice and quiet walk to Roncesvalles :)
 
Valcarlos. -I would tend to error on the side of caution due to the volatile weather on the Napoleon that early in the season.
The Napoleon will always be there. Tackle it on another trip, later in the season.
Been Camino!
 
I booked my flight. I can start either March 31 or April 1. Those of you who have done this route many times...do you think its worth the gamble to start on April 1, in hopes that the Napoleon route might be open? Or would you just plan on Valcarlos?
Hi, according to their website it’s not possible to book Orisson before Tuesday 12 April 2022, so you will have to walk from St Jean to Roncesvalles in one day, OR walk via Valcarlos and overnight there, OR you can book Auberge Borda (1km after Orisson) on booking.com from Sunday 3 April.

Or email them: aubergeborda@gmail.com

Good luck with the weather!
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I did the Valcarlos route 2 years ago on my first Camino. Do not think for a minute this route is any easier that the Napoleon. I saw no one on this route for 2 days! Yes, the terrain is varied and jungle like at times, with no facilities. Valcarlos is the only place for food or water so ensure you are equipped.
 
You all have given me so much to think about. Thank you. I’m just gonna hold off on any decision until something feels right to me.
 
I’ve never suffered from the urge to hike the Route Napoleon. My Grandfather’s opinion was that hills were nice to look at but should only be undertaken out of necessity. As he taught me which fungi to harvest, how to cache a rabbit and the value of a friend in any town I’ve always gone along with Grandad.
I like Valcarlos. It sits there, content, pilgrims are of passing interest but not it’s be and end all. The afternoon train from Bayonne gets you into StJ in plenty of time to collect a stamp from the Bureau Pelerin and stroll to Valcarlos. The opportunity remains for a quiet evening, a decent meal before “The Camino” begins

You got the best view on the entire Camino Francés up on that Napoleon route. We're not just doing it for the challange. Next time, you should.
I’m on the 🐢 plan. 😆 I’m determined to do that “start like an old woman and finish like a younger one” thing. I’m okay with not sticking with the same ppl all the way. Super introverted. I’ll either stop in Orisson or Valcarlos.

That's fair. I think the Napoleon route is worth the wait. It has the best view on the Camino Francés when the sky is clear. I actually waited in SJPdP for rain to end once just to go that way.
 
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I'm starting a few days after you (April 6th), and I'm working on the assumption that I'll be going via Valcarlos through to Roncesvalles on that first day, but plans might change when I'm standing at the junction in SDPP having to decide! I like the idea of starting off on the quieter route people have talked about here.
 
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In four caminos, not once has my wife p'eed or pooped alongside the trail - no matter what. She prefers the Valcarlos route over Napoleon since there are several places to stop along the way, including a gas station, shops, restaurants. This compares to the Napoleon route where there is only Orisson. Plus the topography is much more varied on the Valcarlos route - hiking along streams, through the forests, and up and down hills as well. Bob
 
I'm starting a few days after you (April 6th), and I'm working on the assumption that I'll be going via Valcarlos through to Roncesvalles on that first day, but plans might change when I'm standing at the junction in SDPP having to decide! I like the idea of starting off on the quieter route people have talked about here.

I'm really leaning toward the Valcarlos routhe because of the quiet and the rural french towns. I was reading about it last night in the Moon camino book and it just sounds lovely.
 
In four caminos, not once has my wife p'eed or pooped alongside the trail - no matter what. She prefers the Valcarlos route over Napoleon since there are several places to stop along the way, including a gas station, shops, restaurants. This compares to the Napoleon route where there is only Orisson. Plus the topography is much more varied on the Valcarlos route - hiking along streams, through the forests, and up and down hills as well. Bob
I'm really looking forward to the variety that you mention. I'm stopping the first day at Valcarlos and walking into Roncesvalles the next day - I really don't want to end my day with that uphill section!
 
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I booked my flight. I can start either March 31 or April 1. Those of you who have done this route many times...do you think its worth the gamble to start on April 1, in hopes that the Napoleon route might be open? Or would you just plan on Valcarlos?
hi there,will be in St Jean P.D.P. end of february to finish my pilgrimage from Narbonne to Compostelle.wild camping all the way!!! plan the Valcarlos route it is safer at this time of the year,even end of March.mountain weather is capricious.bom camino!!!
 
hi there,will be in St Jean P.D.P. end of february to finish my pilgrimage from Narbonne to Compostelle.wild camping all the way!!! plan the Valcarlos route it is safer at this time of the year,even end of March.mountain weather is capricious.bom camino!!!
@Eve Alexandra already walked this past year.
 

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