Valcarlos route recent experience

[aliciag56]

So I'm a newbie here days into my first camino Frances.
Being unsure of my fitness level I opted for the Valcarlos route, splitting it into two days, SJPP to Valcarlos, VC to Burguete.
The first lap to VC couldn't have been more idyllic. Rolling hillsides,, bucolic country lanes, even an empty casa rural in VC. the map provided by the credential office has a great picture of where you turn off to get the secondary roads.
It was day two, the up over the pass day, that my vigilance kicked into overdirve. One pergrino,s experience.
1. Hunters. they seemed to be everywhere. while I only saw them once I must have heard at least 50 rounds of shots fired. Some so close I started yelling "estoy aqui, estoy aqui caminando). not sure when hunting season begins and ends in france and spain but something to be aware of
2. The isolation. I've read so much about so many pilgrims I didn't expect to feel so alone/isolated in what felt like a very remote area. I obviously made it up and out ok but it was a concern. I only saw 3 other pilgrims who were travelling together. my advice would be travel in pairs, at a minimum have a working cell phone so authorities can be alerted if need be.
3. the road sections. I asked at least 3 locals if the road sections were safe, was told be all yes. Let's just say I felt less than safe on the road sections. I clung to the right where at least there was usually a drainage ditch. while traffic was not heavy there were several large trucks.
4. weather. my day couldn't have been nicer. however the trail is leaf covered and I can see where one could slip and fall, in some cases far, if the trail were wet. or miss it entirely. just a possibility.
anyway these are my thoughts. I was a good hike, I just had my concerns.....personally if weather was bad and I was travelling alone again a taxi would probably be my first option. at least for day 2. just saying....

 

[MileHighPair]

So I'm a newbie here days into my first camino Frances.
Being unsure of my fitness level I opted for the Valcarlos route, splitting it into two days, SJPP to Valcarlos, VC to Burguete.
The first lap to VC couldn't have been more idyllic. Rolling hillsides,, bucolic country lanes, even an empty casa rural in VC. the map provided by the credential office has a great picture of where you turn off to get the secondary roads.
It was day two, the up over the pass day, that my vigilance kicked into overdirve. One pergrino,s experience.
1. Hunters. they seemed to be everywhere. while I only saw them once I must have heard at least 50 rounds of shots fired. Some so close I started yelling "estoy aqui, estoy aqui caminando). not sure when hunting season begins and ends in france and spain but something to be aware of
2. The isolation. I've read so much about so many pilgrims I didn't expect to feel so alone/isolated in what felt like a very remote area. I obviously made it up and out ok but it was a concern. I only saw 3 other pilgrims who were travelling together. my advice would be travel in pairs, at a minimum have a working cell phone so authorities can be alerted if need be.
3. the road sections. I asked at least 3 locals if the road sections were safe, was told be all yes. Let's just say I felt less than safe on the road sections. I clung to the right where at least there was usually a drainage ditch. while traffic was not heavy there were several large trucks.
4. weather. my day couldn't have been nicer. however the trail is leaf covered and I can see where one could slip and fall, in some cases far, if the trail were wet. or miss it entirely. just a possibility.
anyway these are my thoughts. I was a good hike, I just had my concerns.....personally if weather was bad and I was travelling alone again a taxi would probably be my first option. at least for day 2. just saying....

Alicia, I appreciate your concerns, and each of them is totally legitimate. I recently returned from a 28 day Camino from Leon to Oviedo to Santiago to Muxia. The narrow paved roads were the most terrifying part of my trip. We also walked the Valcarlos route in 2014, and we did not see a single other pilgrim for both days! I remember how thrilling it was to here "Buen Camino" about 200 times on the third day, after rejoining the main Camino. I wrote about it on the blog near the end on September 2014. Buen Camino!

 

[Kat Kostrzewska]

So I'm a newbie here days into my first camino Frances.
Being unsure of my fitness level I opted for the Valcarlos route, splitting it into two days, SJPP to Valcarlos, VC to Burguete.
The first lap to VC couldn't have been more idyllic. Rolling hillsides,, bucolic country lanes, even an empty casa rural in VC. the map provided by the credential office has a great picture of where you turn off to get the secondary roads.
It was day two, the up over the pass day, that my vigilance kicked into overdirve. One pergrino,s experience.
1. Hunters. they seemed to be everywhere. while I only saw them once I must have heard at least 50 rounds of shots fired. Some so close I started yelling "estoy aqui, estoy aqui caminando). not sure when hunting season begins and ends in france and spain but something to be aware of
2. The isolation. I've read so much about so many pilgrims I didn't expect to feel so alone/isolated in what felt like a very remote area. I obviously made it up and out ok but it was a concern. I only saw 3 other pilgrims who were travelling together. my advice would be travel in pairs, at a minimum have a working cell phone so authorities can be alerted if need be.
3. the road sections. I asked at least 3 locals if the road sections were safe, was told be all yes. Let's just say I felt less than safe on the road sections. I clung to the right where at least there was usually a drainage ditch. while traffic was not heavy there were several large trucks.
4. weather. my day couldn't have been nicer. however the trail is leaf covered and I can see where one could slip and fall, in some cases far, if the trail were wet. or miss it entirely. just a possibility.
anyway these are my thoughts. I was a good hike, I just had my concerns.....personally if weather was bad and I was travelling alone again a taxi would probably be my first option. at least for day 2. just saying....

Alicia your description of Valcarlos route is so accurate. Idyllic route and then bang! mountain road, trucks, no hard shoulder. I wrote a short post about that particular stage titled “Lift are for wimps” https://caminodesantiagobybike.co.uk/2018/08/28/introduction-lifts-are-for-wimps/ I believe that you will grin broadly when you read it. Because unlike you I asked for a lift…Buen Camino

 

[LTfit]

Hi Alicia!
I have been wondering how you were doing!
The stretch from Roncesvalles through to Pamplona had many stretches of hard surfaces which weren't there in 2010 so I apologize for telling you that there weren't. Afterwards it does get beter, don't worry. I am now in Nájera walking through dirt paths through the vineyards of Rioja. Luckily we have had lovely weather but today it changed to clouds.

I wish you well.

Take care and Buen Camino.

p.s. for those reading this and wondering about the numbers, there were 59 leaving Roncesvalles on Tuesday. And there were many walking the Route Napoleon - I was only alone walking down through the forest.

 

[aliciag56]

Hi Alicia!
I have been wondering how you were doing!
The stretch from Roncesvalles through to Pamplona had many stretches of hard services which weren't there in 2010 so I apologize for telling you that there weren't. Afterwards it does get beter, don't worry. I am now in Nájera walking through dirt paths through the vineyards of Rioja. Luckily we have had lovely weather but today it changed to clouds.

I wish you well.

Take care and Buen Camino.

p.s. for those reading this and wondering about the numbers, there were 59 leaving Roncesvalles on Tuesday. And there were many walking the Route Napoleon - I was only alone walking down through the forest.

I'm in puenta dlr tonight and very tired. As it seems hardest stages are at the beginning I'm hoping to feel less tired in coming days thanks for the thoughts!

 

[Albertagirl]

I'm in puenta dlr tonight and very tired. As it seems hardest stages are at the beginning I'm hoping to feel less tired in coming days thanks for the thoughts!

@aliciag56
Ease off; if you are very tired, you need a rest. Let your body tell you when it is ready to speed up, instead of just pushing on. A moment's weary inattention could cause a fall and bring an abrupt end to your camino. Get a good sleep, then set off refreshed and don't push the pace. Buen camino.

 

[Tincatinker]

Start slowly pilgrim. Santiago isn't going anywhere

 

[Salomon de Jager]

Hi Alicia!
I have been wondering how you were doing!
The stretch from Roncesvalles through to Pamplona had many stretches of hard surfaces which weren't there in 2010 so I apologize for telling you that there weren't. Afterwards it does get beter, don't worry. I am now in Nájera walking through dirt paths through the vineyards of Rioja. Luckily we have had lovely weather but today it changed to clouds.

I wish you well.

Take care and Buen Camino.

p.s. for those reading this and wondering about the numbers, there were 59 leaving Roncesvalles on Tuesday. And there were many walking the Route Napoleon - I was only alone walking down through the forest.

So the route Napoleon is not closed yet?

 

[Felipe]

Hi, Alicia, I hope you are enjoying your walk (with all the good and not so good moments and experiences).
I read your post with interest, and concluded that experiences differ and depend on personal expectatives and apprehensions (I have my portion of the latter, too).
I walked the Valcarlos, solo, in late March, some years ago. To me, actually the best part was the forest section. Yes, it had some muddy and slippery sections, where I had to walk carefully, but I would not call them dangerous. But I am quite used to this kind of terrain, and trusted my Wolfkin boots and poles.
And yes, it was lonely; I met briefly just another pilgrim, but he opted for the whole paved route. To me, this loneliness was one of the main attractives,, because I wanted some time of introspection before the crowds I knew I would met after Roncesvalles.
I did not particularly like the one hour long road section after Valcarlos, although it had very spectacular views over the Pyrenees. On the other side, the very occasional drivers (particularly trucks) were polite and careful, and sometimes waved to me.
As for the hunters, I am not a fan, for many reasons...In Spain, the season lasts from August to February, approximately. There are designated areas ("cotos de caza"), and safety exclusions for populated areas, roads and specifically for Camino de Santiago. You can hear some rounds of shots, but sounds travel quite far in the fields. I have never heard of an incident in the Camino.
Good walk!

 

[Felipe]

So the route Napoleon is not closed yet?

It is closed from 1st November until 31 March, every year. And there area heavy fines, if somebody wants to know...
The Valcarlos route is open all year round, but it is alway wise to consider the advices of the Pilgrim's bureau in SJPP. Weather can be quite unpredictable in winter, in mountain areas.
It is a very pleasant walk, with many fans in this forum. Farms, fields, villages, with a very nice and quiet forest section.
Buen (and safe) Camino!

 

[MichelleElynHogan]

Walking far to the right? UK, Australia, Hong Kong, yes but no matter where we are in the World, always walk facing oncoming traffic.

 

[aliciag56]

Walking far to the right? UK, Australia, Hong Kong, yes but no matter where we are in the World, always walk facing oncoming traffic.

Normally I would but there was no shoulder, steep drop offs on other side of guard rails, blind curves, and oncoming large vehicles. For me no easy choices.

 

[Thornley]

Normally I would but there was no shoulder, steep drop offs on other side of guard rails, blind curves, and oncoming large vehicles. For me no easy choices.

Did you visit the cafes and restaurants for lunch or dinner when staying in the CR?

We stayed in a lovely place but arranged with others who used the albergue to leave around a certain time.
We stayed on the road [ it had rained the previous week ] until the water fountain and then headed into the forest towards Roncesvalles which was still wet under foot..
We found the cars , buses and taxis were very respectful when we left the second day.
We actually enjoyed the peace and missing pilgrims as we knew what was coming up with numbers.
When walking into Burgos i realised how much i enjoyed the peace of the hills / roads leading out of Valcarlos.
So much so that on our second Camino we bused it from Belorado to Burgos.

I'm hoping to feel less tired in coming days thanks for the thoughts!

Slow up a fraction mate as the damage is usually done early and a short day leading into Logrono is worth it as its a great town for food.

Safe and warm Camino Alicia

 

[Felipe]

Normally I would but there was no shoulder, steep drop offs on other side of guard rails, blind curves, and oncoming large vehicles. For me no easy choices.

Yes, my experience, too. You walk to the right in some sections (just a few), or between a blind curve and a steep cliff, with no shoulder. See the photo...Not an easy choice...
Anyway, I did not feel it as a particularly dangerous walk, because motorists were just a few. I actually took the photo because of the interesting geometric pattern, not with the purpose of documenting a road section.

 

[MichelleElynHogan]

Normally I would but there was no shoulder, steep drop offs on other side of guard rails, blind curves, and oncoming large vehicles. For me no easy choices.

Hi Alicia,
Sadly, regardless of circumstances, if oncoming traffic can see you and you cat get eye contact, the likelihood of an incident is quite low. I know of the steep cliffs, no shoulders, guardrails etc. If you can imagine that against the right side of the road, the rock walls and foliage, blending in to the background is even more dangerous. And if you are hit, you will never see it coming.

Over and above all of this, it is the law of the road.