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Valcarlos route?

shellypaul

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Frances(2016 September)
Just wondering if anyone is considering the alternate route? Pondering my level of fitness.
 
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I have done both, first Valcarlos (because I had doubts about my level of fitness, too) then I "graduated" in the Napoleon.
I think the higher route is doable for most persons. I saw many people in their 60s (as myself), and a group with many middle age people from a parish (guided by their priest, dressed in cassock) who did not seem to have experience at all, and they did it well. Having said that, it is a really tough journey, especially for a first day of walking. You can spend the day in Orisson, to make it easier (but I have no experience with this albergue).
The Valcarlos route has its challenges, too, but it is definitely easier. I did it in two stages, and could even have walked farther than Roncesvalles.
I think a lot depends on the weather (and your season). The second part of the Valcarlos route is mostly by a forest, so in really hot days should be more pleasant (but I confess that I can't stand walking with clear skies, sunny days:rolleyes:). Also, in really bad weather the Napoleon route is not advised -it may even be closed. It is closed anyway from November to Mars, for safety reasons.
Landscapes are both great, with the higher route considered generally more spectacular.
There is a lot of info in this forum about both options. Just use the search function.
Buen camino!
 
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Day 1 to Valcarlos has 2 routes. The road is easy but the alternative is steep. Day 2 from Valcarlos is very steep.
 
If the route over the Pyrenees is doable or not depends also on the weather. When I did the crossing in 2014 I had already done ~2500km and was fit as anything and it was nicely warm, not to hot and dry BUT there were very strong winds coming the opposite direction and I barely made 1km/hour of walking. Buen Camino, SY
 
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I have walked both routes all the way to Roncesvalles on the first day.
Both are beautiful, and different but plenty doable (all kinds of people do them everyday).
To me it's basically like the old saying, "six of one, half dozen of the other"....or "same, same, but different".
 
I am going via the Valcarlos route this October.
 
I'm hoping to be on the camino next March. I plan to take the Valcarlos route. I've done the Napoleon, but don't see a need to have to do it again.
 
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For me the real drawback of the Valcarlos route is that the steep part is at the end, whereas the Napoleon route has it at the beginning, so if you are doing either in one day the Napoleon, in my book is the better, though as has been previously said, both have their joys and possible sorrows. As a by the way we have done it at the age of 60 and 63 and next June my wife wants to go over the top on her 65th birthday with wonky knees, just to show that it is merely a number on a piece of paper. What ever you choose enjoy it.
 
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My wife and I did the Val Carlos route this April due to the Napoleon route being closed due to heavy snow.
We walked in ankle deep snow the last 3 hours and the trails were basically spring steams of clay, dead leaves and sheep manure.
Our poles were certainly put to good use, saw people without poles and it looked to be almost impossible as I saw several people take some slips and falls.
Even with these challenges, we arrived in Roncesvalles by
2:30 PM. The first half day out of Roncesvalles was also challenging with the snow, but again, our poles kept things safe.
 
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Hi there,

We will be leaving SJPP Aug. 13 and staying in Valcarlos that night. I have pre-booked a hotel on Bookings.com (was worried with this being a Holy year & Aug. a busy travel month to have all our accommodations pre-booked), but it sounds like the Valcarlos route is no where near as popular as the one through Orisson.

Do you think my friend and I need a pre-booked room or will we be able to find likely cheaper accommodations if I cancel my booking. I have until Aug.5 to cancel w/o being charged. We are booked in at the Apartamentos De Montaña Mendiola - Casa Ferran for approx. 80 Euro.

Thoughts?

Thank you!
 
@douce-chemin cancel! You will definitely be able to stay at the very nice albergue in Valcarlos. For a fraction of the cost. I think it was 10 euros.

If you are uncomfortable about not booking a bed, you can send them an email, but I'd be astonished if that was necessary. When I was there in May (this year) there were only two of us staying, and the albergue has 24 places. It is bunk beds in two dormitories, but with so few people that is not a problem, and the bunks were comfortable. It has a good bathroom and kitchen, and a washing machine (maybe a dryer, I can't remember).

Here are the details.
 
I've always walked the high route so don't know anything about the Valcarlos route. If you you want to take the Route Napoleon and are in doubt about your fitness level book into the gite at Orisson. A nice way to meet some fellow pilgrims and it splits the climb in two. Plus you get to experience a French gite. You should book in advance because beds are limited and it often does fill up: http://www.refuge-orisson.com/en/ . If your knees are a problem take the road alternative down to Roncesvalles from the summit - turn right at the road rather than going straight ahead on the trail. It is slightly longer but much easier on your joints. The Route Napoleon is very weather dependent. It can be a very enjoyable, if strenuous, walk on a nice summer or fall day and a brutal test of endurance in freezing rain and wind on other, less favourable days.
 
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Although I did the Napoleon route last year, it will be my intention to do the Valcarlos route the next time I do the CF. This is for no other reason than wanting to experience both routes.
I'm not to worried about climbs etc, I'll be over 70 when I next tackle the CF and at that age nothing phases me.
 
thank you! I think we're going to cancel our booking & trust (one of my camino intentions) that there will be "room at the inn" for us two pilgrims!

t-minus 21 days!
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
@douce-chemin cancel! You will definitely be able to stay at the very nice albergue in Valcarlos. For a fraction of the cost. I think it was 10 euros.

If you are uncomfortable about not booking a bed, you can send them an email, but I'd be astonished if that was necessary. When I was there in May (this year) there were only two of us staying, and the albergue has 24 places. It is bunk beds in two dormitories, but with so few people that is not a problem, and the bunks were comfortable. It has a good bathroom and kitchen, and a washing machine (maybe a dryer, I can't remember).

Here are the details.

Hi again, So I e-mailed the albergue just to ask about a reservation and this is the reply I received:

Buenos días,

Reservamos dos camas para el día 13 de agosto.

Para acceder al albergue es necesario un código, lo pueden conseguir en la oficina de turismo de 10:00 a 17:00 o en cualquiera de los bares-restaurantes de la localidad, “ Azkena” y “Ardandegia”.

You need a code to open the door, you can ask for it in the town’s restaurants, “Azkena” and “Ardandegia”.


Un saludo.

Best regards.

They didn't confirm if 2 beds would be free and what do they mean about a "code"? Any clarification from those of you who are experienced would be tremendously appreciated. I have until Aug. 5 to cancel my current booking w/o being charged.

Thanks!
 
Hi again, So I e-mailed the albergue just to ask about a reservation and this is the reply I received:

Buenos días,

Reservamos dos camas para el día 13 de agosto.

Para acceder al albergue es necesario un código, lo pueden conseguir en la oficina de turismo de 10:00 a 17:00 o en cualquiera de los bares-restaurantes de la localidad, “ Azkena” y “Ardandegia”.

You need a code to open the door, you can ask for it in the town’s restaurants, “Azkena” and “Ardandegia”.


Un saludo.

Best regards.

They didn't confirm if 2 beds would be free and what do they mean about a "code"? Any clarification from those of you who are experienced would be tremendously appreciated. I have until Aug. 5 to cancel my current booking w/o being charged.

Thanks!

They HAVE reserved 2 beds for the 13 of August. The code which they mention is a digital code you punch at the albergue door to enter the space. You may obtain this code at the local tourist office or either of the nearby restos which are mentioned.

Unmentioned is the fact that you choose bunks when you enter and that the hospitalera will come about 6pm or later to take your fee and stamp your credencials.

You will enjoy staying at the Valcarlos albergue; I have stayed there many times during past caminos.

Buen camino to you both!
 
Last edited:
They HAVE reserved 2 beds for the 13 of August. The code which they mention is a digital code you punch at the albergue door to enter the space. You may obtain this code at the local tourist office or either of the nearby restos which are mentioned.

Unmentioned is the fact that you choose bunks when you enter and that the hospitalera will come about 6pm or later to take your fee and stamp your credencials.

You will enjoy staying at the Valcarlos albergue; I have stayed there many times during past caminos.

Buen camino to you both!

thank you so much for the clarification - we're such newbs!
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
@douce-chemin cancel! You will definitely be able to stay at the very nice albergue in Valcarlos. For a fraction of the cost. I think it was 10 euros.

If you are uncomfortable about not booking a bed, you can send them an email, but I'd be astonished if that was necessary. When I was there in May (this year) there were only two of us staying, and the albergue has 24 places. It is bunk beds in two dormitories, but with so few people that is not a problem, and the bunks were comfortable. It has a good bathroom and kitchen, and a washing machine (maybe a dryer, I can't remember).

Here are the details.

Kanga I am leaving St Jean Sept 20th and have accommodation booked at valcarlos ... wondering how many people I am likely to find to walk with for the first few days doing the valcarlos route?
 
I walked alone to Valcarlos, but saw people and met a few people after that. So I was alone really for only half a day. The time I was alone was walking through quite well settled areas; lovely Basque farmland. @Annie Little after Roncesvalles you will never be alone!
 

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