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Valcarlos route

TanBrack

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
April 2023 Camino Frances
Hi, I’m starting from SJPP on 28th March so have to take the Valcarlos route. Just wondered how easy it is to navigate without walking on the main road the whole time? Is the route signposted at all? I’m heading to Roncesvalles that day. Thanks!
 
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Hello and welcome!
The VC route has an unavoidable road-route for the first several KM, but there is an alternate into the first villages that goes just off the side and by the river (if you use the Wise Pilgrim app on a phone, you will be able to have a live map to locate that). After Valcarlos itself (which has so much to offer as a lovely rest-stop in a fully functional village of resources, including an albergue should you wish to break up your day), much of the rest of the walk is via the woods, by the river, and up-up-up. and you will join up with the Napoleon route at the small church and monument to Roland. After that you descend together as one approach into Roncesvalles.
Heading out n the 28th of March, could be wet/cool/snowy... who knows! so make sure you get nice and warm in Valcarlos!
As to signage... yes, it is well signed, and the foot trail through the forest is easy to follow. Personally, I prefer the sheltered forest to the exposed Napoleon route at any point....
And you will still have gorgeous views.
Buen Camino!
 
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The Valcarlos route is quite well signposted. I walked it in January. There is a fair bit of walking on minor roads but little of the way need be on the main road itself. At Arneguy you can choose either the main road to Valcarlos or a much quieter parallel road south of the river. That point is clearly signposted. After Valcarlos there is a short section of main road before the path branches off on to minor road then forest paths which barely touch the main road until Roncesvalles.
 
The Valcarlos route is quite well signposted. I walked it in January. There is a fair bit of walking on minor roads but little of the way need be on the main road itself. At Arneguy you can choose either the main road to Valcarlos or a much quieter parallel road south of the river. That point is clearly signposted. After Valcarlos there is a short section of main road before the path branches off on to minor road then forest paths which barely touch the main road until Roncesvalles.
Thank you! Very relieved to hear that.
 
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Hi @TanBrack

My second time in the Frances in 2013, it was 1 April when I left SJPP but as there was too much snow on the Napoleon Route, I had to walk the Valcarlos. I was a little disappointed at first as I’d enjoyed the Napoleon before - but the Valcarlos was a delightful and challenging route. I took the alternative path as described above, so very little walking on main road.

Some describe it as the easier route but it is no walk in the park. Though you don’t have thé sharp climb up to Orisson, overall you spend more time / kms climbing than on the Napoleon. Enjoy. 😎
 
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Do be aware that there are NO services or supply stops between Valcarlos and Roncesvalles. Be sure to carry trail snacks and water.

For more information/tips on walking the historic Valcarlos route see this earlier post. That is the route I always followed whatever the season.

Good luck with your plans and Buen camino!
 
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I would recommend not taking the trail down into the woods after Valcarlos at that time of year as it's prone to be wet and muddy. The trail plunges down and when you reach the river at the bottom it's straight back up again and all to avoid a curve in the road. I recommend sticking to the road after Valcarlos, a little longer but a lot easier.
 
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If you have time, I recommend staying in Valkarlos.
The albergue is excellent, includes breakfast, the restaurant is great and the town itself exudes a positive atmosphere
 
Hi, I’m starting from SJPP on 28th March so have to take the Valcarlos route. Just wondered how easy it is to navigate without walking on the main road the whole time? Is the route signposted at all? I’m heading to Roncesvalles that day. Thanks!
Try using Google Earth. I still visit the route on days when I am Jonesing to be on the Camino. I have done it and on sections where the road is all there is, traffic is extremely low.
 
I departed last March 29 and took the Valcarlos route. It was quite nice and although there is some road walking, the forested alternative is really beautiful. You walk along a river bed for quite some time. I actually did get lost for a split second and found myself stopping in a tiny village trying to figure out where to turn. Quite amazingly, a police officer pulled up abreast of me, said some pleasantries and pointed the way once again. I had stopped in Roncesvalles for a bite and then proceeded onto Burguete for the evening - I would recommend this as an end point if possible.
 
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Hi, I’m starting from SJPP on 28th March so have to take the Valcarlos route. Just wondered how easy it is to navigate without walking on the main road the whole time? Is the route signposted at all? I’m heading to Roncesvalles that day. Thanks!
Hi TanBrack
I did the Valcarlos route in 21as I was cycling and it was the worst decision ever. You can't come off the road until you get to road marker 58 where there is a Camino Shell as am marker. Unbeknown to me I didn't expect the density of the forest. Even in late July the trail was muddy and very slippery and there were swarms of midges and mosquitos it caused me to have a serious accident ending up in hospital.
Please be careful deciding which route you decide on, if I was walking March I would still opt for Frances route, but I hope whatever you decide you have a wonderful Camino, I'm walking my last Camino in July/August to Finisterre. Buen Camino
 
I walked in early Oct last year. Lovely walk though that final climb is a killer!
Leaving Valcarlos, the way goes along the road for a couple of stretches. Neither is very far and generally the road is not busy.
As I walked along the road, I saw 2 very large straw lorries, each with a large trailer behind, coming towards me. The road was twisting and they were navigating the curves slowly and with great skill. I stood and waited in a safe wide place until they had passed before I set off again. Imagine my horror a few mins later when I saw yet another double straw lorry heading towards me when it was a narrow stretch of road. I hastily got over the crash barrier to put as much space between it and me. The driver acknowledged me - whether to thank me or reassure me I do not know. Those drivers really are skilled.

This reminded me of an incident on the Le Puy route a couple of years earlier. There's a wonderful narrow medieval bridge going in to Estang. We watched with fascination as 2 huge Spanish double straw lorries went across the bridge causing chaos as all on coming traffic had to reverse to let them through. Eventually they crossed the bridge.
Half an hour later, we were sitting having a drink outside a Riverside cafe when the same 2 lorries reappeared and forced their way through the town. We realised that they had been forced to turn left after the bridge, due to inadequate room to swing, and had taken half an hour to find somewhere to turn, come back to the town and head in the direction they needed to go in. Quite a performance.
 
It is easy to navigate and well marked.
Also if route navigation is a concern and you don't have a guidebook or some kind of Camino route map information I suggest you get one before you go.
 
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Please be careful deciding which route you decide on, if I was walking March I would still opt for Frances route,
I'm not sure exactly what you mean. Both the Valcarlos and Napoleon routes are part of the Camino Francés, but the Napoleon route is closed to pilgrims until at least April 1st, so it is not an option in March.
 
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The forum's John Sikora has two time lapse videos of the route. As you "walk" the route you see your postion on Google Earth and a John Brierley map.

Saint Jean Pied de Port to Valcarlos
YouTube video id 4lhRW4SaU8E

Valcarlos to Roncesvalles
YouTube video id pLPrhls660k
Thank you! I love this route and have not been able to see it in motion in *years*.
 
Hi, I’m starting from SJPP on 28th March so have to take the Valcarlos route. Just wondered how easy it is to navigate without walking on the main road the whole time? Is the route signposted at all? I’m heading to Roncesvalles that day. Thanks!
And don't feel you'll be missing out by taking the Valcarlos route. While the views are not necessarily as dramatic, the scenery is still wonderful. Valcarlos is a pretty little town with all the facilities you'll need. There is the albergue, as others have said, although I stayed in a lovely old BnB. At the bar, many pilgrims arrived more or less at the same time and elected to have a spontaneous communal dinner, for about 20 people, it turned out. Spirits were high. There was lots of food, wine and laughter. It was one of the best nights on my Camino.
 
Hi, I’m starting from SJPP on 28th March so have to take the Valcarlos route. Just wondered how easy it is to navigate without walking on the main road the whole time? Is the route signposted at all? I’m heading to Roncesvalles that day. Thanks!
Hi I walked this route in 2018, easy to follow, lots of sign posts. You will have a small amount of road walking. Otherwise the route is pretty, be prepared for a very steep climb at the end just prior to the slow easy descent into Roncesvailles. Buen Camino
 
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I'm happy to see so much support for the Valcarlos route.

Due to snow, it was the route I was suddenly forced to take on my first Camino. It was little written about at that time except as a poor substitute for the Napoleón and I was disappointed.

However, it was easy for a beginner like me to follow and the services along the way were good. I followed a short alternative path at one point, feeling brave, and enjoyed it immensely. I enjoyed the valleys and the forests. I was prepared for mud and rain, so the weather presented no problem for me. It was uncrowded and peaceful in many places. It was a gradual uphill all the way until the little Chapel at the almost-end but, not knowing any better, I made the trip from SJPdP to Roncesvalles in one day with daylight to spare (I was not in great shape).

I have since walked the Napoleon and even stayed in Orrison, yet the Valcarlos is, dare I say, my route of choice. I think you are going to like it.
 
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On my first Camino Frances, I took the Valcarlos route in late August 2019. Be prepared! There are no services from SJDP to Valcarlos, or Valcarlos to Roncevalles. After Valcarlos it is mostly off road in the forest through the woods and narrow paths. I did not see any other pilgrims for 2 days! I lost my eyeglasses and ripped my shirt scrambling through the bushes. I did spend the night in Valcarlos at a B&B. Few amenities in town - a small cafe, grocery store. I was happy to meet up with pilgrims in Roncesvalles.
 
Hi, I’m starting from SJPP on 28th March so have to take the Valcarlos route. Just wondered how easy it is to navigate without walking on the main road the whole time? Is the route signposted at all? I’m heading to Roncesvalles that day. Thanks!

I walked the Valcarlos route February 2014. The path was easy to negotiate. A few snow patches presented themselves here and there.

I also had the albergue to myself.

The few other SJPP pilgrims walked onto Roncesvalles.
 
I departed last March 29 and took the Valcarlos route. It was quite nice and although there is some road walking, the forested alternative is really beautiful. You walk along a river bed for quite some time. I actually did get lost for a split second and found myself stopping in a tiny village trying to figure out where to turn. Quite amazingly, a police officer pulled up abreast of me, said some pleasantries and pointed the way once again. I had stopped in Roncesvalles for a bite and then proceeded onto Burguete for the evening - I would recommend this as an end point if possible.
Thanks for this recommendation. I have decided to do this route by choice in April. Stopping in Valcarlos and Burguette.
 
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On my first Camino Frances, I took the Valcarlos route in late August 2019. Be prepared! There are no services from SJDP to Valcarlos, or Valcarlos to Roncevalles.
There are grocery stores, restaurants and convenience stores in the vicinity of Arneguy between SJPdP and Valcarlos, see Google Maps. You are correct about Valcarlos to Roncesvalles though. There is no water either and you will be climbing a lot so bring plenty of water with you.
 
There are grocery stores, restaurants and convenience stores in the vicinity of Arneguy between SJPdP and Valcarlos, see Google Maps. You are correct about Valcarlos to Roncesvalles though. There is no water either and you will be climbing a lot so bring plenty of water with you.
I walked at the end of May and I must say that there was a lot of water.
Small streams were on all sides :)
I have to admit that I drank that water. Clean, clear, fresh, cold it simply beckoned you to drink it. And I did it.
After that I had no consequences.
 

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