LIVE from the Camino VDLP Day 9 - Zafra - and beyond

[Rita Flower]

Well I made it to Day 9 and am having a rest day in Zafra at the lovely Albergue de Zafra (Vincent Van Gogh). They are happy to give you a second night here which was a real blessing. From observation and reports there are between 3- 9 pilgrims coming through every day.
The weather is cool in the morning and continues to heat up through out the day (first few days the max was up to 35) - so it has been early starts and finishing as close to midday as possible. We have had some cooler days as we move north but the weather forecast looks hot again for the coming week.
It’s taken me a while to sort my pack and feel organised, and to start to get some real trail fitness - still a bit of a work in progress.
This Camino has been a lesson in humility - it seems that everything that could go wrong has gone wrong. The list - one of my new fold up poles kept falling apart (thanks Rob for the gaffer tape suggestion), twisted my ankle on day 2, camel back leaked down my back, have had terrible hay fever (too much dust and wheat stubble), thought I lost my bag with all documents etc (fell behind the bed) and even got a blister. However every problem did get solved.
The good news is that I have walked with and been looked after by wonderful, kind and fun people, seen stunning sunrises, stayed in clean comfortable albergues, eaten some great meals and am feeling lighter and stronger each day. The umbrella I brought has been fabulous - I can feel that I am less dehydrated under it. I have had a good rest in Zafra and feel ready for the next stage.
Still a long way to Santiago - one step, one day at a time.
Buen Camino
PS Zafra has its agricultural show on at the moment (which is huge) so all other accomodation is booked. I spent a bit of time there today and watched the horses. I was amazed at the open air BBQ - paella, pulpo, and all sorts of meat and sausage as well as chips and veges- all cooked in giant pans over hot coals. Not cheap but delicious and amazing.
PPS - tried to drop some photos in but I don’t seem to be able to do that from my phone

 

[Fuertebrazos]

Well I made it to Day 9 and am having a rest day in Zafra at the lovely Albergue de Zafra (Vincent Van Gogh). They are happy to give you a second night here which was a real blessing. From observation and reports there are between 3- 9 pilgrims coming through every day.
The weather is cool in the morning and continues to heat up through out the day (first few days the max was up to 35) - so it has been early starts and finishing as close to midday as possible. We have had some cooler days as we move north but the weather forecast looks hot again for the coming week.
It’s taken me a while to sort my pack and feel organised, and to start to get some real trail fitness - still a bit of a work in progress.
This Camino has been a lesson in humility - it seems that everything that could go wrong has gone wrong. The list - one of my new fold up poles kept falling apart (thanks Rob for the gaffer tape suggestion), twisted my ankle on day 2, camel back leaked down my back, have had terrible hay fever (too much dust and wheat stubble), thought I lost my bag with all documents etc (fell behind the bed) and even got a blister. However every problem did get solved.
The good news is that I have walked with and been looked after by wonderful, kind and fun people, seen stunning sunrises, stayed in clean comfortable albergues, eaten some great meals and am feeling lighter and stronger each day. The umbrella I brought has been fabulous - I can feel that I am less dehydrated under it. I have had a good rest in Zafra and feel ready for the next stage.
Still a long way to Santiago - one step, one day at a time.
Buen Camino
PS Zafra has its agricultural show on at the moment (which is huge) so all other accomodation is booked. I spent a bit of time there today and watched the horses. I was amazed at the open air BBQ - paella, pulpo, and all sorts of meat and sausage as well as chips and veges- all cooked in giant pans over hot coals. Not cheap but delicious and amazing.
PPS - tried to drop some photos in but I don’t seem to be able to do that from my phone

Headed to Sevilla to start the VLDP in 2 weeks and I am gratified to hear your report. Not much on this form about this particular branch of the Camino and I hope that you will continue to post.

 

[Rita Flower]

Headed to Sevilla to start the VLDP in 2 weeks and I am gratified to hear your report. Not much on this form about this particular branch of the Camino and I hope that you will continue to post.

Yes I will - especially if someone is interested.
I am walking alone today out of Zafra - my best day so far and have only sighted one other pilgrim. There is great coffee in the lovely little town 4 km out of Zafra.
I usually walk slowly with lots of stops so the first week was really hard trying to get finished before the shocking heat hit in the afternoon. Hopefully it will be cooler when you start.
All the albergues have blankets so far but I have a sleeping bag for further on when blankets may not be available.
Right now I am sitting by the side of a dirt track in the olive groves having lunch.
Apart from hayfever all is great today.
Buen Camino

 

[Tom Conklin]

Are you going to do the Sanabres or are you going to walk up to Astorga? There is lots og good info on the LIVE on the VdlP threads we were posting this spring. They might be helpful. The albergues in Galicia, many of which have been rebuilt or renovated, are fabulous.

 

[lt56ny]

Well I made it to Day 9 and am having a rest day in Zafra at the lovely Albergue de Zafra (Vincent Van Gogh). They are happy to give you a second night here which was a real blessing. From observation and reports there are between 3- 9 pilgrims coming through every day.
The weather is cool in the morning and continues to heat up through out the day (first few days the max was up to 35) - so it has been early starts and finishing as close to midday as possible. We have had some cooler days as we move north but the weather forecast looks hot again for the coming week.
It’s taken me a while to sort my pack and feel organised, and to start to get some real trail fitness - still a bit of a work in progress.
This Camino has been a lesson in humility - it seems that everything that could go wrong has gone wrong. The list - one of my new fold up poles kept falling apart (thanks Rob for the gaffer tape suggestion), twisted my ankle on day 2, camel back leaked down my back, have had terrible hay fever (too much dust and wheat stubble), thought I lost my bag with all documents etc (fell behind the bed) and even got a blister. However every problem did get solved.
The good news is that I have walked with and been looked after by wonderful, kind and fun people, seen stunning sunrises, stayed in clean comfortable albergues, eaten some great meals and am feeling lighter and stronger each day. The umbrella I brought has been fabulous - I can feel that I am less dehydrated under it. I have had a good rest in Zafra and feel ready for the next stage.
Still a long way to Santiago - one step, one day at a time.
Buen Camino
PS Zafra has its agricultural show on at the moment (which is huge) so all other accomodation is booked. I spent a bit of time there today and watched the horses. I was amazed at the open air BBQ - paella, pulpo, and all sorts of meat and sausage as well as chips and veges- all cooked in giant pans over hot coals. Not cheap but delicious and amazing.
PPS - tried to drop some photos in but I don’t seem to be able to do that from my phone

I walked last October and started around the 14th. It was still really hot when I got to Zafra. Closer to highs about 31 or 32. I too stayed at that albergue for 2 nights as I had a stomach thing. Went there because they had a kitchen but alas it was closed like just about every other kitchen last year. Claire cooked for me and I have to say Claire and Antonio couldn't have been nicer or more welcoming. It is a long way to go. Just take it one step at a time. That is all you have!!!!

 

[OzAnnie]

Yes I will - especially if someone is interested.
I am walking alone today out of Zafra - my best day so far
Apart from hayfever all is great today.

Hi Rita
We are always interested. . It’s always enjoyable following the posts.
Re the hayfever- do you have antihistamines? I picked some up in May from the farmacia.

Buen camino

 

[Lindsay53]

Please keep us updated Rita. Reports from on the ground are always interesting!

 

[Rita Flower]

Headed to Sevilla to start the VLDP in 2 weeks and I am gratified to hear your report. Not much on this form about this particular branch of the Camino and I hope that you will continue to post.

Note - the Albergue in Villafranca de loa Borros

Headed to Sevilla to start the VLDP in 2 weeks and I am gratified to hear your report. Not much on this form about this particular branch of the Camino and I hope that you will continue to post.

The albergue in Villafranca de los Barros is closed at least today. I got.

Hi Rita
We are always interested. . It’s always enjoyable following the posts.
Re the hayfever- do you have antihistamines? I picked some up in May from the farmacia.

Buen camino

oh yes - have been on the antihistamines. Brought some with me and will get more if needed. I am much better now and hopefully will improve as we head north.

 

[Rita Flower]

Are you going to do the Sanabres or are you going to walk up to Astorga? There is lots og good info on the LIVE on the VdlP threads we were posting this spring. They might be helpful. The albergues in Galicia, many of which have been rebuilt or renovated, are fabulous.

I am planning the Sanabres. I will read up on that route. I presume the albergues you mention are on the Sanabres. I would love to revisit the Frances via Astoria but am put off by the crowds and apparent problems with accomodation. I got caught this weekend - the fiesta in Zafra affected accomodation for miles around and both albergues I was relying on were closed - I don’t want that experience again.

 

[Rita Flower]

Hi Rita
We are always interested. . It’s always enjoyable following the posts.
Re the hayfever- do you have antihistamines? I picked some up in May from the farmacia.

Buen camino

Well I made it to Day 9 and am having a rest day in Zafra at the lovely Albergue de Zafra (Vincent Van Gogh). They are happy to give you a second night here which was a real blessing. From observation and reports there are between 3- 9 pilgrims coming through every day.
The weather is cool in the morning and continues to heat up through out the day (first few days the max was up to 35) - so it has been early starts and finishing as close to midday as possible. We have had some cooler days as we move north but the weather forecast looks hot again for the coming week.
It’s taken me a while to sort my pack and feel organised, and to start to get some real trail fitness - still a bit of a work in progress.
This Camino has been a lesson in humility - it seems that everything that could go wrong has gone wrong. The list - one of my new fold up poles kept falling apart (thanks Rob for the gaffer tape suggestion), twisted my ankle on day 2, camel back leaked down my back, have had terrible hay fever (too much dust and wheat stubble), thought I lost my bag with all documents etc (fell behind the bed) and even got a blister. However every problem did get solved.
The good news is that I have walked with and been looked after by wonderful, kind and fun people, seen stunning sunrises, stayed in clean comfortable albergues, eaten some great meals and am feeling lighter and stronger each day. The umbrella I brought has been fabulous - I can feel that I am less dehydrated under it. I have had a good rest in Zafra and feel ready for the next stage.
Still a long way to Santiago - one step, one day at a time.
Buen Camino
PS Zafra has its agricultural show on at the moment (which is huge) so all other accomodation is booked. I spent a bit of time there today and watched the horses. I was amazed at the open air BBQ - paella, pulpo, and all sorts of meat and sausage as well as chips and veges- all cooked in giant pans over hot coals. Not cheap but delicious and amazing.
PPS - tried to drop some photos in but I don’t seem to be able to do that from my phone

PS if anyone is interested in my FindPenguins blog please message me directly and I can send you the link.

 

[Fuertebrazos]

Yes I will - especially if someone is interested.
I am walking alone today out of Zafra - my best day so far and have only sighted one other pilgrim. There is great coffee in the lovely little town 4 km out of Zafra.
I usually walk slowly with lots of stops so the first week was really hard trying to get finished before the shocking heat hit in the afternoon. Hopefully it will be cooler when you start.
All the albergues have blankets so far but I have a sleeping bag for further on when blankets may not be available.
Right now I am sitting by the side of a dirt track in the olive groves having lunch.
Apart from hayfever all is great today.
Buen Camino

You said that the albergue was reporting three to nine people passing through every day. And that you had seen only one other pilgrim yesterday. Is one per day typical or do you see more, as was reported by the albergue? Also, is the VDLP as well marked as the French and Portuguese Caminos? I've done those and they were wonderful, but I'm a little nervous about the long, lonely walk that I am about to undertake.

 

[Rita Flower]

Headed to Sevilla to start the VLDP in 2 weeks and I am gratified to hear your report. Not much on this form about this particular branch of the Camino and I hope that you will continue to

You said that the albergue was reporting three to nine people passing through every day. And that you had seen only one other pilgrim yesterday. Is one per day typical or do you see more, as was reported by the albergue? Also, is the VDLP as well marked as the French and Portuguese Caminos? I've done those and they were wonderful, but I'm a little nervous about the long, lonely walk that I am about to undertake.

Join the pre nerves club. I was feeling the same.
What I have found is that being less supported has led to some mistakes on my part but mainly led to me feeling more confident and slowly building my capacity. I speak a minuscule amount of Spanish but people are generally helpful. There always seems to be someone with a little English when I need it and the young kids are eager to share their knowledge. And I struggle on with Google translate.
I think numbers probably range between 0 and 7 on any one day. The Camino is mainly well marked. I haven’t been completely lost yet. It is trickier if you leave in the dark as the arrows can be hard to find - but really it seems as good as the Frances in 2007.
Just watch weekends in bigger towns and cities. I nearly got caught out last night in Mérida as the albergue was closed for the night for family reasons and the town was pretty much booked out. I think I got the last bed.
The main challenge in the first week is that you can walk 20+ km with no towns in between to encourage breaks. Now that I have started to take more roadside breaks it feels much easier. But you still need to carry more water and food than on the other two Caminos.
Am currently having a lovely restful Sunday in Mérida - the Roman ruins here are pretty impressive.
Buen Camino

 

[Rita Flower]

I walked last October and started around the 14th. It was still really hot when I got to Zafra. Closer to highs about 31 or 32. I too stayed at that albergue for 2 nights as I had a stomach thing. Went there because they had a kitchen but alas it was closed like just about every other kitchen last year. Claire cooked for me and I have to say Claire and Antonio couldn't have been nicer or more welcoming. It is a long way to go. Just take it one step at a time. That is all you have!!!!

Oh Claire and Antonio are the best. Looked after me so well. The kitchen is now open by arrangement.

 

[Rita Flower]

You said that the albergue was reporting three to nine people passing through every day. And that you had seen only one other pilgrim yesterday. Is one per day typical or do you see more, as was reported by the albergue? Also, is the VDLP as well marked as the French and Portuguese Caminos? I've done those and they were wonderful, but I'm a little nervous about the long, lonely walk that I am about to undertake.

Was just working out how to get out of Mérida and found this blog I had saved but hadn’t looked at yet for this Camino. It has a great map and shows the routes out of town in detail.

Via de la Plata

The Via de la Plata, one of the longest pilgrimage routes to Santiago, at approximately 1000 km, is a solitary and historic walk, almost impossible in the summer months.

www.pilgrimagetraveler.com

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

There is great coffee in the lovely little town 4 km out of Zafra

Must be Los santos de Maimona - I remember it as the most poetic name of any village on a Camino. I loved walking down the hill (as I remember it) in the darkness where the lights from the village looked like lit candles... I walked in the midst of summer so I had to rise before 5 a.m.!!

This brings back memories. I long to get back to the Vía de la Plata! Oh yes, keep the reports about the albergues coming! I am torn betweeen walking from Sevilla once again, or walking the Camino del Sur that joins the Plata in... Zafra, actually. Or the Vía Augusta. So many choices...

 

[george.g]

I’m starting the VdeLP from Seville tomorrow after a bus ride from Granada having walked from Almaria Staying at Triana Backpackers, which is immaculate. The temperature today must be nearly 30 degrees which is a lot more than I expected.
Walking in Sept\Oct does pose some problems, I’m packing clothes for hot/wet/cold which doesn’t help with pack weight, and as I head north will probably need them, just wish I’d been a little more analytical with my gear selection.
PS. Hi Rita glad to see you are doing so well.

 

[Rita Flower]

I’m starting the VdeLP from Seville tomorrow after a bus ride from Granada having walked from Almaria Staying at Triana Backpackers, which is immaculate. The temperature today must be nearly 30 degrees which is a lot more than I expected.
Walking in Sept\Oct does pose some problems, I’m packing clothes for hot/wet/cold which doesn’t help with pack weight, and as I head north will probably need them, just wish I’d been a little more analytical with my gear selection.
PS. Hi Rita glad to see you are doing so well.

I’m already impressed with your starting from Almaria!!
All I can say about Sevilla is to start as early in the morning as possible. I am packed as light as I can and figure if I get really cold up north I can go shopping. I just don’t have the capacity to carry too much particularly with the need to carry water and food on VDLP.
By the way did you take some time to go to the Alhambra. I did a day trip out of Sevilla and of all the human made monuments I have seen recently- from Gaudi to Roman ruins - the Alhambra was the most uplifting.

 

[Tom Conklin]

I am planning the Sanabres. I will read up on that route. I presume the albergues you mention are on the Sanabres. I would love to revisit the Frances via Astoria but am put off by the crowds and apparent problems with accomodation. I got caught this weekend - the fiesta in Zafra affected accomodation for miles around and both albergues I was relying on were closed - I don’t want that experience again.

Yes, the great albergues in Galicia are on the Sanabres. As I am sure you know, the Sanabres is considerably more hilly than the VdlP. Having said that, it is also very beautiful. The number of pilgrims increase substantially from Ourense onward. For us that was partly because it was Easter as well as it is 100km to SdC. If I were you I would look into whether or not the crowds on the French will be as big that late in the season.

 

[george.g]

Hi Rita, Alhambra is not to be missed as is the Cathedral.(but the crowds are something else)
Tomorrow early start, coffee + cake at Camas, Aguarus at Santiponce, then head down and go for it.
How did you manage at Villafranca da los Barros
Plus thanks for the ref to the pilgrimage traveller site

 

[Fuertebrazos]

Was just working out how to get out of Mérida and found this blog I had saved but hadn’t looked at yet for this Camino. It has a great map and shows the routes out of town in detail.

Via de la Plata

The Via de la Plata, one of the longest pilgrimage routes to Santiago, at approximately 1000 km, is a solitary and historic walk, almost impossible in the summer months.

www.pilgrimagetraveler.com

Wow, this map looks great. More useful than the ones in my "Walking Guide to the Via de la Plata 2022." I feel better already. Thanks for posting!

 

[Rita Flower]

Hi Rita, Alhambra is not to be missed as is the Cathedral.(but the crowds are something else)
Tomorrow early start, coffee + cake at Camas, Aguarus at Santiponce, then head down and go for it.
How did you manage at Villafranca da los Barros
Plus thanks for the ref to the pilgrimage traveller site

Ended up taking the bus to Mérida and getting what seemed to be the last private bed there as the albergue was closed for the night. Not part of my plan but ….
Anyway all good. I am in Aljucén tonight in a lovely albergue in a lovely town. Looks like you can do some long days. You will catch up to me.
Coming out of Mérida the first section has no arrows because the road is new (so I was told this morning) but keep going till you see the green cycle path on the right. Then follow that. At about the 9 or 10 km mark a dirt road goes off to the left. It isn’t marked at the turn off but well marked later.
Buen Camino

 

[Sydney Peregrinos]

Join the pre nerves club. I was feeling the same.
What I have found is that being less supported has led to some mistakes on my part but mainly led to me feeling more confident and slowly building my capacity. I speak a minuscule amount of Spanish but people are generally helpful. There always seems to be someone with a little English when I need it and the young kids are eager to share their knowledge. And I struggle on with Google translate.
I think numbers probably range between 0 and 7 on any one day. The Camino is mainly well marked. I haven’t been completely lost yet. It is trickier if you leave in the dark as the arrows can be hard to find - but really it seems as good as the Frances in 2007.
Just watch weekends in bigger towns and cities. I nearly got caught out last night in Mérida as the albergue was closed for the night for family reasons and the town was pretty much booked out. I think I got the last bed.
The main challenge in the first week is that you can walk 20+ km with no towns in between to encourage breaks. Now that I have started to take more roadside breaks it feels much easier. But you still need to carry more water and food than on the other two Caminos.
Am currently having a lovely restful Sunday in Mérida - the Roman ruins here are pretty impressive.
Buen Camino

Hi Rita, I am enjoying reading your posts. We are planning to walk the VLDP in March 2023, after having to cancel in 2020 so it is good to get some current updates.

 

[Peter Elliott]

Well I made it to Day 9 and am having a rest day in Zafra at the lovely Albergue de Zafra (Vincent Van Gogh). They are happy to give you a second night here which was a real blessing. From observation and reports there are between 3- 9 pilgrims coming through every day.
The weather is cool in the morning and continues to heat up through out the day (first few days the max was up to 35) - so it has been early starts and finishing as close to midday as possible. We have had some cooler days as we move north but the weather forecast looks hot again for the coming week.
It’s taken me a while to sort my pack and feel organised, and to start to get some real trail fitness - still a bit of a work in progress.
This Camino has been a lesson in humility - it seems that everything that could go wrong has gone wrong. The list - one of my new fold up poles kept falling apart (thanks Rob for the gaffer tape suggestion), twisted my ankle on day 2, camel back leaked down my back, have had terrible hay fever (too much dust and wheat stubble), thought I lost my bag with all documents etc (fell behind the bed) and even got a blister. However every problem did get solved.
The good news is that I have walked with and been looked after by wonderful, kind and fun people, seen stunning sunrises, stayed in clean comfortable albergues, eaten some great meals and am feeling lighter and stronger each day. The umbrella I brought has been fabulous - I can feel that I am less dehydrated under it. I have had a good rest in Zafra and feel ready for the next stage.
Still a long way to Santiago - one step, one day at a time.
Buen Camino
PS Zafra has its agricultural show on at the moment (which is huge) so all other accomodation is booked. I spent a bit of time there today and watched the horses. I was amazed at the open air BBQ - paella, pulpo, and all sorts of meat and sausage as well as chips and veges- all cooked in giant pans over hot coals. Not cheap but delicious and amazing.
PPS - tried to drop some photos in but I don’t seem to be able to do that from my phone

Go well Rita, and thanks for the updates. Flying out tonight to Caceres pick up where I left of back in 2019. See you in Santiago in November maybe - Buen Camino

 

[Rita Flower]

Go well Rita, and thanks for the updates. Flying out tonight to Caceres pick up where I left of back in 2019. See you in Santiago in November maybe - Buen Camino

Well I am just out of Casar de Cáseres tonight. You will probably catch up with me well before Santiago.

 

[Rita Flower]

I have made it across the hot hot plains and have arrived at the cooler high country. Today was even what I would call a bit cold and I had moments when I missed the hot plains. So if you are still walking down there, enjoy, as it will eventually end.
Highlights so far
A perfect mix of time with people and time alone. I walked with two groups of Spanish people for a while who were incredibly kind. It was great in my first few weeks getting used to this Camino - with me only having a tiny bit of Spanish.
Also there have been enough English speakers so I have been able to have some great conversations too.
And of course Google translate can break many language barriers.
Accomodation is all of an excellent standard.
Food is fabulous and a good price for Menu del Dia - from €7.50 - €12 but usually around €10.
There is generally plenty of accommodation except if you are in a wave with a big group. Eg the albergue in Galisteo was booked out last night by the group of 7 Spanish walkers I was with (they eventually walked faster than me) - there are only 8 beds here - but it is a fabulous albergue. Tonight I am here with one other. Albergues range from donativo to €15.
There is also plenty of private accommodation but it’s more expensive.
Accomodation can be a problem on weekends in bigger tourist cities or around fiesta - I knew this but I got stuck in Villafranca where the Albergue was closed and the town was booked out because of the nearby huge fiesta in Zafra. After much mucking around I ended up taking a bus to Mérida (and the albergue was closed there too on a Saturday night for ‘family business’). Eventually I think I the last bed in a hostel in Mérida - for €80. Sunday night was back to normal price of €35
A couple of women shared with me that they also got stuck around the same time and with some help eventually took a taxi to a town off Camino. Watch out for albergues being peregrinos only or not as that can make a difference.
Just to be on the safe side I have started booking a day or two ahead using email (and one phone call with my dodgy Spanish) which has been successful. Replies to emails arrived virtually immediately or within 24 hours. I try not to use Booking.com if I can help it for all the reasons outlined in other threads. Albergue hosts are usually happy to ring ahead for you as well.
Way markers.
The way so far has been well marked except out of Mérida and Caŋaveral where I believe there are new roads that don’t have any arrows yet. A bit confusing especially in the dark mornings so…
The Camino Ninja app maps are excellent for tracking where you are and navigating those tricky sections.
Do not miss Cáceres - the old town in fabulous.
Photos
Grape arbour is in Grimaldi at the albergue- well worth the stop
My umbrella was a life saver in the heat. I could set it up so it was hands free and I could use my poles. The two women I met had these ‘cool’ head scarves (from Sweden) that they put in the fridge at night and which then cooled their heads all day.
Finally the most amazing sunrises every day. Beautiful.

 

[Rita Flower]

As you can tell from my day count I am a slower walker due to maturity and a previous chronic foot problem (Morton’s Neuroma)
Having set the scene - how is my Camino going? Dare I say … fabulous.
Since just after Cáceres I have been able to break the stages into bits that are manageable for me. And I have found that the albergues at towns between stages are usually good value for money and offer excellent conditions - often with flannel sheets and towels and last night the gas heater was on. Toasty warm and cosy.
Tonight I am paying €30 including dinner and breakfast - which is not too bad given Menu del Dia to the local bar/restaurant is €16.
I’ve been incredibly blessed with the weather so far. It only seems to rain in the afternoon at the moment. Hoping this pattern continues.
I was just chatting with a young woman from Holland who said it looks like the weather is quite good further north.
I am enjoying my slower pace and spend the afternoon showering, washing, eating, journaling (FindPenguins) napping, doing some yoga, planning and generally taking it easy.
I have been booking one or two days ahead particularly if the place I want to stay hasn’t a lot of beds. But it seems there are not too many people out at the moment. I am often solo or with one or two others.
Tonight there is a couple travelling by car and one other peregrino.
I have met a few solo women but they are all faster than me so we don’t spend a lot of time together.
The days are mild but it is getting cold in the evenings so I think I might need to get some extra clothes in Zamora. I just couldn’t carry any more when I started and it all seemed too hard to post stuff to Salamanca.
Otherwise all is good. I am loving the walking alone under the spacious skies of the meseta.
I’m in that mid stage where you think this will go on forever (particularly when it’s raining outside) but I know that soon enough I will be in my last 10 days, then 5 then ….. so I am practicing just being in the day I am in.

Buen Camino