VdlP Food Recommendations - A Serious Question

[Robo]

What's a 'Foodie' to do ?

On my first VdlP.......

OK, don't get me wrong here. I understand he VdlP is a totally different 'kettle of fish' to the Camino Frances.

And I'm as prepared as I can be I think.
Lots of research, reading of blogs, following 'virtual' caminos and YouTube videos.

So it's

Longer daily distances.
Lack of services along the way.
So carry snacks and be prepared for DIY meals.
Have to carry lots of water.

And I'm fully committed to experiencing the whole Albergue thing, even if the 'whole Albergue thing' is not quite ready to experience me. Hopefully my dieting will reduce the snoring

But I have one big concern still..........

I don't want to miss out on any 'must try' dishes or places to eat!

Heaven forbid I get back and some Forum member says "Robo, did you get to try the amazing (fill in the blanks) in Salamanca"? And I missed it!

Now if it was the CF again, I'd know where to find some great Roast Lamb, or Tapas, or BBQ Pork and all those yummy things.

I'm sure I'll be able to hunt out some nice meals along the way.
But for this new VdlP venture, some gentle guidance or tips would be most appreciated.

Were there any really memorable meals or dishes that you had on the VdlP?

Please do share
I realise this is likely limited to major towns along the way......


I plan to be 20 kgs lighter than my last Camino......so plenty of scope to take on a nice meal here and there.

Note, If my body holds out.......I plan to take the Astorga option then the Invierno. (not Sanabres)

 

[koknesis]

The only "food" I really needed while walking VdlP was water + electrolyte supplements ... In June... at least 3L daily drinking. When you are walking? Today there will be about +30oC in Sevilla.
Otherwise there was a really good seafood in Salamanca, Restaurante La Reserva, if I recall correctly.

 

[SabsP]

Caceres : on the plaza mayor but certainly not a tourist trap. La Minerva.

Tapería en la Plaza Mayor de Cáceres - Restaurante La Minerva

Restaurante Tapería en la Plaza Mayor de Cáceres. Tapas y platos de alta cocina acompañados de los mejores vinos de bodega y cervezas.

www.laminervacaceres.com

In Sevilla there is Trianilla in the Triana Barrio. Bit off the beaten track ( in terms of sightseeing ) but perfect when you start your Camino.

TRIANILLA TAPAS

trianillatapas.com

 

[Robo]

The only "food" I really needed while walking VdlP was water + electrolyte supplements ... In June... at least 3L daily drinking. When you are walking? Today there will be about +30oC in Sevilla.
Otherwise there was a really good seafood in Salamanca, Restaurante La Reserva, if I recall correctly.

Likely starting end of March.....
I'll look out for that one!
Found it..........Permanently closed

 

[Robo]

Caceres : on the plaza mayor but certainly not a tourist trap. La Minerva.

Tapería en la Plaza Mayor de Cáceres - Restaurante La Minerva

Restaurante Tapería en la Plaza Mayor de Cáceres. Tapas y platos de alta cocina acompañados de los mejores vinos de bodega y cervezas.

www.laminervacaceres.com

In Sevilla there is Trianilla in the Triana Barrio. Bit off the beaten track ( in terms of sightseeing ) but perfect when you start your Camino.

TRIANILLA TAPAS

trianillatapas.com

They look great, many thanks

 

[Antonius Vaessen]

In Rionegro del Puente don't miss "Me gusta comer"

 

[peregrino_tom]

Hi Robo, in the time-honoured forum tradition of not really addressing the OP's question but rambling on about one's own experiences, here goes...
I can't remember much that was memorable about the food 12 years ago. For the first few days of Extremadura the village shops left a strong impression, as they were crowded with curing hams hanging from the ceilings with those little white plastic cups below to catch the fat drips..
A lot of the time we prepared pilgrim meals in the albergues because there was no alternative - but maybe that was a consequence of the places we chose to stay. Sometimes that needed a bit of planning to buy all the ingredients in a bigger place like Merida, to carry to a small village like Aljucen.
At Zamora we encountered one of those travelling faux medieval markets - folks in period costumes boiling whole octopus in giant vats and roasting whole hogs.
FWIW I found the Sanabres route to be excellent - loved the way the features and communities around us changed as we progressed to the Galician hills. I found the Invierno to be a great alternative to the CF, if you want something quieter. But IMO Sanabres is a far far better option if you are standing right there at the fork, wondering which way to go..

 

[Robo]

In Rionegro del Puente don't miss "Me gusta comer"

Yes I've heard that place recommended before!
Sadly I'm not going past it though, as I'll be heading North to Astorga

 

[Robo]

Hi Robo, in the time-honoured forum tradition of not really addressing the OP's question but rambling on about one's own experiences, here goes...
I can't remember much that was memorable about the food 12 years ago. For the first few days of Extremadura the village shops left a strong impression, as they were crowded with curing hams hanging from the ceilings with those little white plastic cups below to catch the fat drips..
A lot of the time we prepared pilgrim meals in the albergues because there was no alternative - but maybe that was a consequence of the places we chose to stay. Sometimes that needed a bit of planning to buy all the ingredients in a bigger place like Merida, to carry to a small village like Aljucen.
At Zamora we encountered one of those travelling faux medieval markets - folks in period costumes boiling whole octopus in giant vats and roasting whole hogs.
FWIW I found the Sanabres route to be excellent - loved the way the features and communities around us changed as we progressed to the Galician hills. I found the Invierno to be a great alternative to the CF, if you want something quieter. But IMO Sanabres is a far far better option if you are standing right there at the fork, wondering which way to go..

Thanks @peregrino_tom
I've kind of decided on the Invierno for a number of reasons, but I'm keeping the Sanabres for another time.

Happy to live on Ham!
Was bread easy to find?

 

[Sunopo]

Okay, not a restaurant recommendation but a really good albergue meal: in Zafra at the albergue convento de san francisco, a proper home cooked meal at a pilgrim price and one of the best meals I had. Sandra and her husband/ partner (forget his name) go out of their way to be helpful. Another excellent homecooked meal was at albergue torre de sabre in el Cubo del Vino, food was very good. I can see several negative comments mainly price on Gronze but my experience in March was really very good.

 

[Kiwi-family]

Thank goodness you are saving the Sanabres rather than skipping it! It’s a gem.
Me gusta comer gets my vote too when you make it. And the very nice albergue is directly across the street. Win win.

 

[Kiwi-family]

Oh, and don’t miss the Torta de Casar in Cáceres- beautifully creamy cheese with a crunchy exterior. We enjoyed the cheese museum there too. And we chanced upon the most amazing churros and chocolate in a bar a few blocks away from the albergue (there’s a fine albergue to try - the clock across the square chimes every fifteen minutes all night long!)

 

[SioCamino]

My advice would be to fall in with the local way of doing things. Generally you may not be able to eat out much earlier than 9pm in a lot of places. For me, i got into the habit of having a proper meal (menu del día) in the middle of the day - i could get this usually as late as 3pm. Then i didn't really need to eat again after than, maybe a light snack.

I found the standard of food pretty good actually BUT I eat most things and speak enough Spanish to find out what's good etc. The meat dishes were often excellent, pork cheeks, venison, secreto etc.

In places like Cáceres and Salamanca, much as i loved them, you wouldn't want to be looking for food before 8 or 9 pm, not even tapas avaliable.

In Salamanca there are some great food spots in particular a place called Bambu just off the main square - really fabulous tapas (e.g. spare ribs etc) with your drink

Lots of good food places beyond the main square towards the University but can't remember any specifics.

Hope this helps and enjoy! Loved the via.

 

[Christine Leneghan]

What's a 'Foodie' to do ?

On my first VdlP.......

OK, don't get me wrong here. I understand he VdlP is a totally different 'kettle of fish' to the Camino Frances.

And I'm as prepared as I can be I think.
Lots of research, reading of blogs, following 'virtual' caminos and YouTube videos.

So it's

Longer daily distances.
Lack of services along the way.
So carry snacks and be prepared for DIY meals.
Have to carry lots of water.

And I'm fully committed to experiencing the whole Albergue thing, even if the 'whole Albergue thing' is not quite ready to experience me. Hopefully my dieting will reduce the snoring

But I have one big concern still..........

I don't want to miss out on any 'must try' dishes or places to eat!

Heaven forbid I get back and some Forum member says "Robo, did you get to try the amazing (fill in the blanks) in Salamanca"? And I missed it!

Now if it was the CF again, I'd know where to find some great Roast Lamb, or Tapas, or BBQ Pork and all those yummy things.

I'm sure I'll be able to hunt out some nice meals along the way.
But for this new VdlP venture, some gentle guidance or tips would be most appreciated.

Were there any really memorable meals or dishes that you had on the VdlP?

Please do share
I realise this is likely limited to major towns along the way......


I plan to be 20 kgs lighter than my last Camino......so plenty of scope to take on a nice meal here and there.

Note, If my body holds out.......I plan to take the Astorga option then the Invierno. (not Sanabres)

I’ve never been on Via de la Plata but just wanted to let you know I love you and Pat’s videos on YouTube and wanted to thank you for your weekly posts. Buen Camino for your 2023 hike!

 

[Miguel de Flandes]

What's a 'Foodie' to do ?

On my first VdlP.......

OK, don't get me wrong here. I understand he VdlP is a totally different 'kettle of fish' to the Camino Frances.

And I'm as prepared as I can be I think.
Lots of research, reading of blogs, following 'virtual' caminos and YouTube videos.

So it's

Longer daily distances.
Lack of services along the way.
So carry snacks and be prepared for DIY meals.
Have to carry lots of water.

And I'm fully committed to experiencing the whole Albergue thing, even if the 'whole Albergue thing' is not quite ready to experience me. Hopefully my dieting will reduce the snoring

But I have one big concern still..........

I don't want to miss out on any 'must try' dishes or places to eat!

Heaven forbid I get back and some Forum member says "Robo, did you get to try the amazing (fill in the blanks) in Salamanca"? And I missed it!

Now if it was the CF again, I'd know where to find some great Roast Lamb, or Tapas, or BBQ Pork and all those yummy things.

I'm sure I'll be able to hunt out some nice meals along the way.
But for this new VdlP venture, some gentle guidance or tips would be most appreciated.

Were there any really memorable meals or dishes that you had on the VdlP?

Please do share
I realise this is likely limited to major towns along the way......


I plan to be 20 kgs lighter than my last Camino......so plenty of scope to take on a nice meal here and there.

Note, If my body holds out.......I plan to take the Astorga option then the Invierno. (not Sanabres)

I’ve heard it from a Spanish bicigrino in Montamarta: the VdlP is the only camino where you gain weight…

Buen camino!
Miguel

 

[alansykes]

I very much like the café Viriato (named after a Celtiberian resistance fighter) in Zamora, just off the main paseo and very handy for the parador. It has some of the best (and prettiest) tapas I've ever eaten - roundels of prawns with anchovies and cream cheese, thin slivers of marinated rare tender beef, figs with paté, potatoes and minced liver, yum yum. Rather expensive, possible due to the many suits from the junta or government office nearby, but well worth it, especially with a warming and delicious glass of really excellent Toro wine from just up the Duero. The latter is so good there and generally so rubbish in England that I can only assume the Spanish very sensibly ship the worst to the Brits and keep the best for themselves.

I was worried, on my last visit to lovely Zamora, in 2020, that it appeared to have suffered more covid business failures than any other town I'd seen. Very unfair given that it also had the highest death rate from Spanish flu in 1919 - partly because the local Bishop insisted on initiating a "super-spreader" parade.

 

[JennyH94]

Completely love this thread Robo! You’re in for some fabulous dining experiences on the VDLP! Here’s a couple to get your tastebuds tingling -

FDE1 -
I can highly recommend the restaurant at Hotel La Muralla in Zafra (wonderful hotel too btw) and their braised pork cheeks - celestial …



FDE2 -
Pulpo at Casa Claudio on the main drag in Casar de Caceres - scrumptious -



I can also highly recommend Asador Grimaldo in Grimaldo, the variant stage before Galisteo. My dear Camino friend Wanda and I had the most delicious fish there. They have a huge grill and roast oven set up there and the meat dishes coming out of the kitchen were mouth-watering. Sadly we were too focussed on our beautiful meals to take a photo!

Enjoy!

Cheers -
Jenny

 

[Robo]

Thank goodness you are saving the Sanabres rather than skipping it! It’s a gem.
Me gusta comer gets my vote too when you make it. And the very nice albergue is directly across the street. Win win.

I'm saving it as a shorter Camino I can do with Pat in the future
Keen to do the Invierno, but she isn't, so I can tick it off this trip.
Passing the Cruz de Ferro again is a big pull......
I found a great spot on the Invierno for a bit of a family reunion (brother and sister live in Europe)

So the Astorga option ticks a few boxes this trip

 

[Robo]

Completely love this thread Robo! You’re in for some fabulous dining experiences on the VDLP! Here’s a couple to get your tastebuds tingling -

FDE1 -
I can highly recommend the restaurant at Hotel La Muralla in Zafra (wonderful hotel too btw) and their braised pork cheeks - celestial …

View attachment 131977

FDE2 -
Pulpo at Casa Claudio on the main drag in Casar de Caceres - scrumptious -

View attachment 131978

I can also highly recommend Asador Grimaldo in Grimaldo, the variant stage before Galisteo. My dear Camino friend Wanda and I had the most delicious fish there. They have a huge grill and roast oven set up there and the meat dishes coming out of the kitchen were mouth-watering. Sadly we were too focussed on our beautiful meals to take a photo!

Enjoy!

Cheers -
Jenny

Thanks Jenny. These look great

Asador Grimaldo looks a bit like Hotel Azofra in Burgos.......

 

[Pilgrim Patricia]

It was many years ago (2008 & 2009) that I walked the VdlP, but one thing I really missed was black pepper! Seemed all the cafes and restaurants had olive oil cruets and salt shakers on the tables, but no black pepper to be had. Ever since, I've saved the little paper "envelopes" that contain pepper when I see them.

Also, I only found white bread everywhere, none made with even a bit of whole wheat flour. When I hosted at Miraz I tried to buy whole wheat flour from the grocery van, but they only had white. The All Bran Buds cereal that I added for fibre when I made bread at the albergue didn't break down as I had hoped, and the result was bread "peppered" (haha!) with little bran buds.

Buen provecho!

 

[camino07]

In Rionegro del Puente don't miss "Me gusta comer"

He had a day off on the Wednesday I was there this end of May. I was so disappointed. It could be a regular thing. anyway the plaza bar does good food.

 

[Robo]

Also, I only found white bread everywhere, none made with even a bit of whole wheat flour. When I hosted at Miraz I tried to buy whole wheat flour from the grocery van, but they only had white. The All Bran Buds cereal that I added for fibre when I made bread at the albergue didn't break down as I had hoped, and the result was bread "peppered" (haha!) with little bran buds.

Buen provecho!

Any bread will do the job for me

 

[lt56ny]

Likely starting end of March.....
I'll look out for that one!
Found it..........Permanently closed

I walked last October through December and it was hot for about 8-9 days coming out of Sevilla. In the bigger towns and cities there are lots of choices. Unfortunately I can't say I ate at any must eat restaurants. I need a lot of food when I walk. I stop early on about every 5 or 6 k and have some water and fruit or some crackers and goat cheese. I was carrying 3 liters of water a day. I doubt starting in March you will need that much. There were days I had to carry enough food for the whole day. Almost every kitchen was closed so I had to eat out almost every night. In some of those small villages options are limited of course. Also some nights food wasn't served until 9 or 9:30. Interestingly enough I usually (but not always) found that the really tiny places I stayed with only one or two restaurants i had better food and service. I usually would check out the menu then talk to the owner and get his recommendation. I found in the larger towns I would usually just pick something unless I saw that something that looked really good. I also found that since virtually no place except for albergues need or really care about pilgrim euros. It is such as small part of their business. I had meals that ranged from pretty bad to pretty good with a few really good dinners. I am sure in. I had some really excellent food in Sevilla. In all the bigger cities I am sure you will have no problem and I am sure you have gotten some good recommendations. I usually just walk around (I am budget conscience) and see what the food looks like and how crowded the place is. But I check to see percentage of drinkers to drinkers/eaters. haha A little complicated.

 

[lt56ny]

It was many years ago (2008 & 2009) that I walked the VdlP, but one thing I really missed was black pepper! Seemed all the cafes and restaurants had olive oil cruets and salt shakers on the tables, but no black pepper to be had. Ever since, I've saved the little paper "envelopes" that contain pepper when I see them.

Also, I only found white bread everywhere, none made with even a bit of whole wheat flour. When I hosted at Miraz I tried to buy whole wheat flour from the grocery van, but they only had white. The All Bran Buds cereal that I added for fibre when I made bread at the albergue didn't break down as I had hoped, and the result was bread "peppered" (haha!) with little bran buds.

Buen provecho!

In 2015 I walked from Le Puy to Santiago. One of the biggest bummers after leaving France was the food, although very good in Spain, for my taste can't compare to the home cooked meals I had in France. When it came to French bread compared to Spanish Bread. It is Muhammad Ali as French bread fighting me as Spanish bread. No contest stop the fight!

 

[wsivilli]

I know your not going on the “Sanabrese” but. Your question reminded me of funny menu del dia board in Puebla de Sanabria. One of the first items listed was “attacked cabbage”. Which we finally figured out was chopped cabbage. It and the meal was very good though, kept us laughing for the rest of our trip, not about the meal…

 

[OzAnnie]

I can also highly recommend Asador Grimaldo in Grimaldo, the variant stage before Galisteo.

Yes- I’ll 2nd that recommendation
… That place came to my mind too… Thanks Jenny for remembering the name of it.
Food was yum yum. & being able to watch the food being cooked through the glass at the end of the room .. added that extra something.

 

[Anniesantiago]

One of the simple differences on the VDLP that I found and loved was "Manteca Colora," a spread for your breakfast toast made from pork, spices, and lard. Loved the stuff so much I made it when I got home.
Manteca Colora

 

[wanda]

Completely love this thread Robo! You’re in for some fabulous dining experiences on the VDLP! Here’s a couple to get your tastebuds tingling -

FDE1 -
I can highly recommend the restaurant at Hotel La Muralla in Zafra (wonderful hotel too btw) and their braised pork cheeks - celestial …

View attachment 131977

FDE2 -
Pulpo at Casa Claudio on the main drag in Casar de Caceres - scrumptious -

View attachment 131978

I can also highly recommend Asador Grimaldo in Grimaldo, the variant stage before Galisteo. My dear Camino friend Wanda and I had the most delicious fish there. They have a huge grill and roast oven set up there and the meat dishes coming out of the kitchen were mouth-watering. Sadly we were too focussed on our beautiful meals to take a photo!

Enjoy!

Cheers -
Jenny

Completely love this thread Robo! You’re in for some fabulous dining experiences on the VDLP! Here’s a couple to get your tastebuds tingling -

FDE1 -
I can highly recommend the restaurant at Hotel La Muralla in Zafra (wonderful hotel too btw) and their braised pork cheeks - celestial …

View attachment 131977

FDE2 -
Pulpo at Casa Claudio on the main drag in Casar de Caceres - scrumptious -

View attachment 131978

I can also highly recommend Asador Grimaldo in Grimaldo, the variant stage before Galisteo. My dear Camino friend Wanda and I had the most delicious fish there. They have a huge grill and roast oven set up there and the meat dishes coming out of the kitchen were mouth-watering. Sadly we were too focussed on our beautiful meals to take a photo!

Enjoy!

Cheers -
Jenny

I agree Jenny on Asador Grimaldo. My favorite meal of the entire camino. Great food and great company! I also enjoyed a delicious meal in Monesterio at El Rinconcello. It was recommended in the guide. Delicious food and wonderful atmosphere.

 

[JennyH94]

I agree Jenny on Asador Grimaldo. My favorite meal of the entire camino. Great food and great company! I also enjoyed a delicious meal in Monesterio at El Rinconcello. It was recommended in the guide. Delicious food and wonderful atmosphere.

Me too Wanda! Our Grimaldo meal was fantastic - it was my favourite meal too. Remember the champagne and lemon sorbet? Out of this world!
Your Monesterio meal would have been a treat as well. There are certainly some wonderfully memorable restaurants on the VDLP and Sanabres.
Camino hugs from Sydney -
Jenny

 

[lt56ny]

Hi Robo, in the time-honoured forum tradition of not really addressing the OP's question but rambling on about one's own experiences, here goes...
I can't remember much that was memorable about the food 12 years ago. For the first few days of Extremadura the village shops left a strong impression, as they were crowded with curing hams hanging from the ceilings with those little white plastic cups below to catch the fat drips..
A lot of the time we prepared pilgrim meals in the albergues because there was no alternative - but maybe that was a consequence of the places we chose to stay. Sometimes that needed a bit of planning to buy all the ingredients in a bigger place like Merida, to carry to a small village like Aljucen.
At Zamora we encountered one of those travelling faux medieval markets - folks in period costumes boiling whole octopus in giant vats and roasting whole hogs.
FWIW I found the Sanabres route to be excellent - loved the way the features and communities around us changed as we progressed to the Galician hills. I found the Invierno to be a great alternative to the CF, if you want something quieter. But IMO Sanabres is a far far better option if you are standing right there at the fork, wondering which way to go..

I know what you mean about rambling on with your own experiences instead of directly answering the OP’s question first. I think it is a common trait of camino junkies. My kids and my wife usually go on auto pilot as soon as they hear the words camino, pilgrim, Santiago.

 

[brian560]

What's a 'Foodie' to do ?

On my first VdlP.......

OK, don't get me wrong here. I understand he VdlP is a totally different 'kettle of fish' to the Camino Frances.

And I'm as prepared as I can be I think.
Lots of research, reading of blogs, following 'virtual' caminos and YouTube videos.

So it's

Longer daily distances.
Lack of services along the way.
So carry snacks and be prepared for DIY meals.
Have to carry lots of water.

And I'm fully committed to experiencing the whole Albergue thing, even if the 'whole Albergue thing' is not quite ready to experience me. Hopefully my dieting will reduce the snoring

But I have one big concern still..........

I don't want to miss out on any 'must try' dishes or places to eat!

Heaven forbid I get back and some Forum member says "Robo, did you get to try the amazing (fill in the blanks) in Salamanca"? And I missed it!

Now if it was the CF again, I'd know where to find some great Roast Lamb, or Tapas, or BBQ Pork and all those yummy things.

I'm sure I'll be able to hunt out some nice meals along the way.
But for this new VdlP venture, some gentle guidance or tips would be most appreciated.

Were there any really memorable meals or dishes that you had on the VdlP?

Please do share
I realise this is likely limited to major towns along the way......


I plan to be 20 kgs lighter than my last Camino......so plenty of scope to take on a nice meal here and there.

Note, If my body holds out.......I plan to take the Astorga option then the Invierno. (not Sanabres)

Restaurant in main street at Monasterio is good. Ask for best food in town at the Albergue and they'll give you directions. There is also a restaurant in Zafra over the road and to to the left of the Abergue in the former convent which does a huge menu del dia. Orense was good for food. Generally though breakfast and lunch was bread and bananas or bread and tuna and tomato. Make sure you get to a supermarket when you arrive at your nightly destination.

 

[Ali@59]

Just been through Montamarta, few places to eat but nothing in the morning, Granja de Moruela only one bar dominates the village and also run the albergue,food was average. Two small shops and bar open for mornings and these two stages carry plenty water, no fountains

 

[hecate105]

in Zafra - the tapas - Matrimonio - delightful (who knew sweet milk spread and an anchovy could taste so good...?)

 

[Kiwi-family]

I'm saving it as a shorter Camino I can do with Pat in the future
Keen to do the Invierno, but she isn't, so I can tick it off this trip.
Passing the Cruz de Ferro again is a big pull......
I found a great spot on the Invierno for a bit of a family reunion (brother and sister live in Europe)

So the Astorga option ticks a few boxes this trip

What is wrong with Pat? I get wanting wanting rice, but not being interested in the Invierno I cannot understand!
and what's your reunion spot? info to file away for later;-)

 

[camino07]

Just been through Montamarta, few places to eat but nothing in the morning, Granja de Moruela only one bar dominates the village and also run the albergue,food was average. Two small shops and bar open for mornings and these two stages carry plenty water, no fountains

Bit late for you but there is an excellent BBQ restaurant and early morning cafe up the street and on the same side as the the Albergue in Granja ,just around the corner. Only discovered it in this May.

 

[Robo]

What is wrong with Pat? I get wanting wanting rice, but not being interested in the Invierno I cannot understand!
and what's your reunion spot? info to file away for later;-)

Nothing wrong with Pat. Only that to get to the Invierno with me she'll need to walk 700 kms on the VdlP with me

Ponferrada Castle maybe

 

[Kiwi-family]

Nothing wrong with Pat. Only that to get to the Invierno with me she'll need to walk 700 kms on the VdlP with me

Ponferrada Castle maybe

Well, there’s nothing wrong with the VdlP, so are YOU the problem Robo? Can’t be - you were prepared to carry a rice cooker.

 

[darcelona]

Hi Robo,

I wish I had asked this question before walking the VDLP this year! I did have some great food but quite a few misses too. Here's a few of my highlights foodwise:

• El Ricón de la Barbera in Castilblanco de los Arroyos: I think this place is responsible for setting my expectations to be high for the camino. The chicharrónes de Cádiz were a real highlight. Gotta wait til 8 before they open though.
• Parochial Albergue in Monasterio: not a restaurant but by far the best equipped and stocked albergue kitchen I encountered. I had the albergue to myself and cooked myself a little feast. Nice sunny balcony with great view too.
• Nameless churreria in Los Santos de Maimona: this unassuming little kiosk with no signage was an unexpected and absolute godsend. I started out very early from Zafra on a Sunday morning. I hadn't picked up any snacks the night before thinking Zafra was big enough that I would find something open in the morning. Nothing was open. I walked up and over the little hill (spectacular sunrise) into Los Santos de Maimona hoping to find something there, but nothing was open. Then I spied this kiosk that had its window open. I walked over and peeked inside and there was a woman sitting there. She made me fresh churros and chocolate and cafe con leche and a bag of churros to go and it was 3 Euro!! I felt like I had experienced a miracle. The kiosk is on a tiny little plaza at the intersection of Calle Maria Gordillo and Calle Valmoreno: https://goo.gl/maps/bNffPikedRAyougQA
• Albergue Turístico La Almazara: I didn't eat lunch here because I was still full from churros but I had a beer and a yummy pastel de nata (Portugues owner ). I mention this place because if I were to do it all over again, I would plan to spend a night here.
• La Casa del Sol in Caceres: I had an excellent meal in this restaurant in the old city. The secreto iberico was beautiful. Caceres is full of great restaurants though so you probably can't go wrong wherever you try.
• Musicarte in Miranda de Azan: Perfect little lunch spot so rare on the VDLP. Our trio had spent a frigid night in the municipal albergue in Pedrosilla de los Aires and were eager to get into Salamanca. We very nearly kept our heads down and ploughed on but the sensible one in our group successfully swayed us to take a break. My first bocadillo de calamares and I never had one better afterwards...warm light and delicious. Also, it is a vermuteria with great selection if you are vermouth fan. It is worth walk the couple hundred meters off the route to stop in here.
• Vinodiario in Salamanca: as a foodie you will appreciate the excellent menu and special wine selection. They know their stuff and are well connected with many boutique wineries in Spain. A little outside the central area but worth the visit. I had a rest day in Salamanca and ate here twice.
• Bread: unfortunately it is not the greatest in southern Spain in my opinion and not like the great bread you get in Galicia. Maybe I was just unlucky though.
• Crushed red chili flakes: this was the one thing I wish I brought with me. I searched grocery stores but couldn't find it in Spain. Next time.

Hope you have great VDLP experience. I loved it. I walked in March as well and had great weather. Buen Camino

 

[domigee]

Well, there’s nothing wrong with the VdlP, so are YOU the problem Robo? Can’t be - you were prepared to carry a rice cooker.

Just what I wanted to say Just bring a rice cooker and Bob’s your uncle

 

[VNwalking]

Off topic, but on the Invierno I had very nice meals at Pepa in A Rua and Meson Lucas in Chantada.
A Rua also has O Pillabán, reported to be excellent but I never got up there to eat.

And - being a stickybeak but never mind - Monforte would be a very nice place for a reunion, much nicer than Ponferrada and just as easily reached by train. The Parador there is atop a hill, above a nice town with no shortage of things to do and see.

. Only that to get to the Invierno with me she'll need to walk 700 kms on the VdlP with me

There are other ways to get to Ponferrada.

 

[Robo]

Off topic, but on the Invierno I had very nice meals at Pepa in A Rua and Meson Lucas in Chantada.
A Rua also has O Pillabán, reported to be excellent but I never got up there to eat.

And - being a stickybeak but never mind - Monforte would be a very nice place for a reunion, much nicer than Ponferrada and just as easily reached by train. The Parador there is atop a hill, above a nice town with no shortage of things to do and see.

There are other ways to get to Ponferrada.

Always love a good food recommendation !

 

[Kanga]

Yes to La Minerva in Caceres. Not the cheapest but one of the best meals (as in gastronomic, rather than simply filling a very hungry pilgrim) I've had on any Camino. Yes to the Asador Grimaldo.

Seville is where they make the famous "Torta de Aceite Oliva" - originally made by Inés Rosales and sold by her at the train station in Castilleja de la Cuesta and local road crossings. Inés' product became very popular and is now manufactured commercially in Seville by a company bearing her name, and exported all over the world.

The original recipe was supposedly Arab or possibly Jewish. It contains up to 25% olive oil, is a delightfully flaky pasty flavoured with orange (my favourite) or aniseed. You can try it freshly made at Cafeteria Pasteleria La Canasta on Constitution Ave, near the Cathedral.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

on the Invierno I had very nice meals at Pepa in A Rua

Do you have an address for Pepa, Google Maps thinks that the Pepa at Rúa do Progreso, 8, A Rúa is a Beauty Parlour???

 

[SabsP]

Do you have an address for Pepa, Google Maps thinks that the Pepa at Rúa do Progreso, 8, A Rúa is a Beauty Parlour???

Restaurante Pepa in A Rúa - Restaurant reviews

I recommend you to visit the restaurant Restaurante Pepa. Find more about this place with Restaurant Guru App.

restaurantguru.com

Temporarily closed.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Temporarily closed.

Since 22nd January

 

[Via2010]

Granja de Moruela only one bar dominates the village and also run the albergue

There are three places at Granja offering food: The bar "Teleclub" next to the public albergue and two other ("cle-bis" and „L’espiga“) In the latter we had a very good hamburger and a remarkable barbecue).

I did the Camino Sevilla-Zamora in June 2019 and Zamora - Santiago in August 2021 and remember good food at these places:


I did the Camino Sevilla-Zamora in June 2019 and Zamora - Santiago in August 2021 and remember good food at these places:


"Venta del gato" in Fuente de Cantos (one of the best menues ever, incl. delicious home-made ice-cream)

Generally it is good to follow the recommendations of your host and to prefer a slow-cooked meat such as porks cheeks (carilleras) or "estofado" to stakes and potages such as "lentejas", "judias verdes" to pasta

Restaurante "Alejandro" in Alcuescar (menú)

in Casar de Cacéres you should try a dish with "tarta de Casar"-cheese; bar "Majuca" opposite the albergue was good - follow their recommendation of the day

Asador Grimaldo in Grimaldo (again excellent)

Hotel Arco di Caparra in Canaveral - very good menú del día (til 16.30 and in the late evening)

Bar B&T in Roales de Pan (very rich bocadillos)

and further on the Camino Sanabrés:

Hotel/Restaurante „Juan Manuel“ a Camarzana di Tera (menú)

"Me gusta a comer" in Rionegro del Puente (Menú especial peregrino - really a treat)

„Hostal Tu Casa“ a bit outside Requejo (800 m, but on the camino) - nice old couple, excellent home-made food; trout from a lake nearby

„O Relojero“ in A Gudina (a bit outside on the national road)

"A Picota" at Laza (one of the best menues I had in 2010 and again in 2021), just the thing to enjoy after this long stage

 

[Robo]

There are three places at Granja offering food: The bar "Teleclub" next to the public albergue and two other ("cle-bis" and „L’espiga“) In the latter we had a very good hamburger and a remarkable barbecue).

I did the Camino Sevilla-Zamora in June 2019 and Zamora - Santiago in August 2021 and remember good food at these places:


I did the Camino Sevilla-Zamora in June 2019 and Zamora - Santiago in August 2021 and remember good food at these places:


"Venta del gato" in Fuente de Cantos (one of the best menues ever, incl. delicious home-made ice-cream)

Generally it is good to follow the recommendations of your host and to prefer a slow-cooked meat such as porks cheeks (carilleras) or "estofado" to stakes and potages such as "lentejas", "judias verdes" to pasta

Restaurante "Alejandro" in Alcuescar (menú)

in Casar de Cacéres you should try a dish with "tarta de Casar"-cheese; bar "Majuca" opposite the albergue was good - follow their recommendation of the day

Asador Grimaldo in Grimaldo (again excellent)

Hotel Arco di Caparra in Canaveral - very good menú del día (til 16.30 and in the late evening)

Bar B&T in Roales de Pan (very rich bocadillos)

and further on the Camino Sanabrés:

Hotel/Restaurante „Juan Manuel“ a Camarzana di Tera (menú)

"Me gusta a comer" in Rionegro del Puente (Menú especial peregrino - really a treat)

„Hostal Tu Casa“ a bit outside Requejo (800 m, but on the camino) - nice old couple, excellent home-made food; trout from a lake nearby

„O Relojero“ in A Gudina (a bit outside on the national road)

"A Picota" at Laza (one of the best menues I had in 2010 and again in 2021), just the thing to enjoy after this long stage

Amazing list. Many thanks

 

[Pangloss]

I walked the VdlP in 2016. My two best nights, gastronomically, were:

1 Me Gusta Comer. I'm sorry you'll miss this going to Astorga, it's a gem. But you can still go to
2 the Albergue Torre de Sabre in el Cubo de Tierra del Vino. Great home cooking, but it's a pretty samll albergue (they turned a peregrino away when I was there). So best to book in advance.

But actually after a long day's walk you'll find almost all the food tastes great !

 

[Sunopo]

Hi Robo,

I wish I had asked this question before walking the VDLP this year! I did have some great food but quite a few misses too. Here's a few of my highlights foodwise:

• El Ricón de la Barbera in Castilblanco de los Arroyos: I think this place is responsible for setting my expectations to be high for the camino. The chicharrónes de Cádiz were a real highlight. Gotta wait til 8 before they open though.
• Parochial Albergue in Monasterio: not a restaurant but by far the best equipped and stocked albergue kitchen I encountered. I had the albergue to myself and cooked myself a little feast. Nice sunny balcony with great view too.
• Nameless churreria in Los Santos de Maimona: this unassuming little kiosk with no signage was an unexpected and absolute godsend. I started out very early from Zafra on a Sunday morning. I hadn't picked up any snacks the night before thinking Zafra was big enough that I would find something open in the morning. Nothing was open. I walked up and over the little hill (spectacular sunrise) into Los Santos de Maimona hoping to find something there, but nothing was open. Then I spied this kiosk that had its window open. I walked over and peeked inside and there was a woman sitting there. She made me fresh churros and chocolate and cafe con leche and a bag of churros to go and it was 3 Euro!! I felt like I had experienced a miracle. The kiosk is on a tiny little plaza at the intersection of Calle Maria Gordillo and Calle Valmoreno: https://goo.gl/maps/bNffPikedRAyougQA
• Albergue Turístico La Almazara: I didn't eat lunch here because I was still full from churros but I had a beer and a yummy pastel de nata (Portugues owner ). I mention this place because if I were to do it all over again, I would plan to spend a night here.
• La Casa del Sol in Caceres: I had an excellent meal in this restaurant in the old city. The secreto iberico was beautiful. Caceres is full of great restaurants though so you probably can't go wrong wherever you try.
• Musicarte in Miranda de Azan: Perfect little lunch spot so rare on the VDLP. Our trio had spent a frigid night in the municipal albergue in Pedrosilla de los Aires and were eager to get into Salamanca. We very nearly kept our heads down and ploughed on but the sensible one in our group successfully swayed us to take a break. My first bocadillo de calamares and I never had one better afterwards...warm light and delicious. Also, it is a vermuteria with great selection if you are vermouth fan. It is worth walk the couple hundred meters off the route to stop in here.
• Vinodiario in Salamanca: as a foodie you will appreciate the excellent menu and special wine selection. They know their stuff and are well connected with many boutique wineries in Spain. A little outside the central area but worth the visit. I had a rest day in Salamanca and ate here twice.
• Bread: unfortunately it is not the greatest in southern Spain in my opinion and not like the great bread you get in Galicia. Maybe I was just unlucky though.
• Crushed red chili flakes: this was the one thing I wish I brought with me. I searched grocery stores but couldn't find it in Spain. Next time.

Hope you have great VDLP experience. I loved it. I walked in March as well and had great weather. Buen Camino

Just saw this now, they say the camino provides, well I met you on that camino and then had someone to share my love of food with. Not sure who the sensible one of the trio was but I agree that Musicarte in Miranda de Azan was just fantastic.
The kitchen in Albergue turístico San Blas in Oliva de Placencia is worth noting too, but then you were the cook.

 

[Babyboomergirl]

What's a 'Foodie' to do ?

On my first VdlP.......

OK, don't get me wrong here. I understand he VdlP is a totally different 'kettle of fish' to the Camino Frances.

And I'm as prepared as I can be I think.
Lots of research, reading of blogs, following 'virtual' caminos and YouTube videos.

So it's

Longer daily distances.
Lack of services along the way.
So carry snacks and be prepared for DIY meals.
Have to carry lots of water.

And I'm fully committed to experiencing the whole Albergue thing, even if the 'whole Albergue thing' is not quite ready to experience me. Hopefully my dieting will reduce the snoring

But I have one big concern still..........

I don't want to miss out on any 'must try' dishes or places to eat!

Heaven forbid I get back and some Forum member says "Robo, did you get to try the amazing (fill in the blanks) in Salamanca"? And I missed it!

Now if it was the CF again, I'd know where to find some great Roast Lamb, or Tapas, or BBQ Pork and all those yummy things.

I'm sure I'll be able to hunt out some nice meals along the way.
But for this new VdlP venture, some gentle guidance or tips would be most appreciated.

Were there any really memorable meals or dishes that you had on the VdlP?

Please do share
I realise this is likely limited to major towns along the way......


I plan to be 20 kgs lighter than my last Camino......so plenty of scope to take on a nice meal here and there.

Note, If my body holds out.......I plan to take the Astorga option then the Invierno. (not Sanabres)

Thank you @Robo for starting this thread and to all those who contributed.
I’ll be starting in Seville in April and have now added all the recommendations to my notes.
Buen Camino