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VDLP in July - Too hot?

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Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Francais, VDLP 2015
Hello everyone!

I am planning on walking the VDLP in July. I'm wondering if it's going to be too hot. I know that I will walking northward and that it will probably cool down as I go north, but for the first week or so I'm wondering if Seville and that area will be just too hot. I did the Frances in July one year and it was fine. Quite cold in the mountains actually.

Any thoughts? Thank you! :)
 
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From Sevilla to Cáceres (or even Plasencia) you are likely to find máximum temperatures over 35ºC many days and you may find even temperatures over 40ºC if it happened to be a hot year. Minimum temperatures over 20ºC wouldn't be (too) rare either. In the area around Salamanca and Zamora you are less likely to find maximum temperatures over 35ºC although they happen (almost) every year on some days. What you won't find on that area are temperatures over 40ºC (except if it's a breaking-records year). If you continue on the Camino Sanabrés, be aware the area around Ourense can be hot too sometimes (some years they have had temperatures over 40ºC on some -isolated- days).
 
Hi! I walked it in June to avoid the July heat and... even then it was too hot for me! Now that was last year and people in Sevilla said the heat came early...
I'm usually OK when it is hot but ... this was just too hot for long walking days. Over 38 deg., often with no shade at all. We carried a lot of water but of course it warms up after an hour or so...
Nights were equally hot of course,around 33 deg. I recall and it was very difficult to sleep.
Around Salamanca it turned cold and it rained. Then around Ourense it was again unbearably hot, around 40 deg.
I do think the heat took away a lot of the enjoyment. But of course it may be that I'm getting older :(. Also I came straight from the UK where the temperature was 12 deg. max .
You may be just fine but I, myself, would not do it again!
 
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Hello everyone!
Any thoughts? Thank you! :)
Yes, it will be hot.. A group of us left Sevilla the first week of September last year.. I had been watching the temperatures along the route in the run up to our trip and fortunately it had cooled down the week before.

Make sure you carry plenty of water there are very very few fountains with potable water on the VDLP (I always carried at least 2 litres, you will probably want to carry more). There are also many places with little shade. During our camino we had alberques to ourselves several times, during July I doubt if you will see many Peregrinos at all.

Buen Camino!
 
We had this question/discussion a few years back -one of the better pieces of advice was to start out as early as possible each day (say 20-30 minutes before sun-up). These particular pilgrims aimed to reach their overnight stop by 1.00 pm (2.00 at the latest); if they had a long day then a two/three hour rest (siesta?) was recommended before continuing on as the day cooled. One other tip - carry at least two 1 litre water bottles and refill them as often as possible - yes you need to drink 2-3-4 litres per day if the temps are 30+. Buen Camino.
 
We did the VdlP in August. It was too hot. If you start and finish early it is doable but not fun. We found that after the the Sierra on the border between Extremadura snd Castille Leon things became more bearable but that may just have been a change in the weather. If you do go in July take plenty of water and a big hat as there is very little shade.
 
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Hello everyone!

I am planning on walking the VDLP in July. I'm wondering if it's going to be too hot. I know that I will walking northward and that it will probably cool down as I go north, but for the first week or so I'm wondering if Seville and that area will be just too hot. I did the Frances in July one year and it was fine. Quite cold in the mountains actually.

Any thoughts? Thank you! :)

Hi,

Castilian's answer above is correct, those are the temperatures and corresponding regions that's often given and I find them to be accurate (having done the Plata twice). Just adding to some comments above: wether it's a "hot year" in general or not, there are always "heat waves" during days, or sometimes weeks, like a "tongue" from northern Africa that touches the peninsula. I remember checking the weather each day to see if one was coming up, and if they were, I paced up to get nortwards as quickly as possible. First time on the Camino I got caught in one of them, got sick (heatstroke) and eventually had to quit the Camino because of health problems. This was in June-July. Second time was about the same weather conditions, and the same time of year, but I had learned to deal with the heat so I could complete the route.

The changes I made between 1st and 2nd attempt (might perhaps help someone to avoid the same mistakes):

1. Get up earlier (at 05:00 instead of 06:00). One hour less in mid-day heat can save you! :O)

2. Get enough sleep.

3. Finding albergues or hostels with AC so you CAN sleep at night. It's impossible to sleep with temperatures above 30 in your room! Sleep deprivation will break you down when you're doing 20-30-40 kms a day... I would actually skip the municipal albergues because I knew there would be no AC. More expensive, but worth it.

4. Not pushing yourself: rather shorten the stages than trying to compete with the heat. "It's all in your head" was what broke me down, as I thought I could put my mind on survival mode and still do 39 kms in 40 + heat. I have learned to listen more to my body than to my mind and not try to be Super-man...

Just some advice. It IS possible to do this in July, but you have to thread carefully!

/BP
 
I tried it and believe it is too hot. Most (not many but MOST) of the fountains listed in the guidebooks were dry. Up to 4 liters of water had to be carried on some stretches. HEAVY!!! We ran out of water more than once. I personally would suggest a different route or a different month.
 
In researching which route to walk in July a few years ago, I found a site (sorry can't remember which one) that plainly said do NOT walk the VdlP in July...too hot and too dangerous (for your health). We chose to walk from Toulouse to Puente La Reina instead, on the Arles/Aragones Caminos and loved it. Not too hot, with beautiful landscapes, friendly people, and an interesting range of accommodations, but very few other pilgrims.
 
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We found that after the the Sierra on the border between Extremadura snd Castille Leon things became more bearable but that may just have been a change in the weather

That wasn't (really) do to a change in the weather. Zamora and Salamanca are, average, roughly 3 degrees (Celsius) colder than Cáceres (and surroundings) and Cáceres is, average, roughly another 3 degrees colder than Sevilla so by the time you reach Salamanca you find its temperatures more bearable even if they were still hot.

If continuing on the Sanabrés, the Sanabria area is colder than Zamora so if you happen to arrive to Ourense on a hot day, it can be quite a big contrast.
 
But of course it may be that I'm getting older :(. Also I came straight from the UK where the temperature was 12 deg. max .
You may be just fine but I, myself, would not do it again!

Well, as they say: only mad dogs and Englishmen...;)

I'm cursing myself for starting in September in Seville, and not waiting till October...

Buen camino
Miguel de Flandes
 
The VdlP was my first Camino, and I really enjoyed it. I definitely am not trying to discourage you. However, the reason these two photos were taken was because the content (shade structures and fountains with potable water) were so uncommon.. Buen Camino!
 

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  • One of the Few Fountains on the VDLP.jpg
    One of the Few Fountains on the VDLP.jpg
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  • One of Two Shade Structures on the VDLP.jpg
    One of Two Shade Structures on the VDLP.jpg
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It will be hot. Last year was extreme, I am told. I was hospitalera in Zamora, second forthnight in July. Morning temperature reached 40 by 9 am. Most pilgrims left by 5 am. Post Zamora, I walked the Sanabres from Ourense onwards... average temp. 35-40 celcius... water shortage in fountains (not many) and at time no shade.

Once I adjusted to the temperature, I loved it. Best purchase in Zamora... a handheld Spanish fan. When I walked, started early mornings and carried more water to drink, everytime I found some water source, I filled my hat and dumped the water over my head to cool down...was dry within minutes. Be prepared, walk early and pace yourself.
Buen Camino.
 
Hello everyone!

I am planning on walking the VDLP in July. I'm wondering if it's going to be too hot. I know that I will walking northward and that it will probably cool down as I go north, but for the first week or so I'm wondering if Seville and that area will be just too hot. I did the Frances in July one year and it was fine. Quite cold in the mountains actually.

Any thoughts? Thank you! :)
Hey :)
I'm starting the Via de la Plata in July too. I read a lot about what other people say concerning the heat, water, etc. and I think apart from being well prepared it really depends on the person (how well they can cope with the heat) and I guess there is also a little bit of luck involved, because some years are hotter than others. But I personally really want to do it and summer is the only time of the year I've got, so I'll just give it a go! :)
 
I was hospitalera in Zamora, second forthnight in July. Morning temperature reached 40 by 9 am.

Don't exagerate! In the last 50 years, temperatures in Zamora reached 40ºC just once and that was a (famous) day in July 1995... Last year, being a hot late June and early/mid July, only twice they reached 39ºC and that was just in the afternoon.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Don't exagerate! In the last 50 years, temperatures in Zamora reached 40ºC just once and that was a (famous) day in July 1995... Last year, being a hot late June and early/mid July, only twice they reached 39ºC and that was just in the afternoon.
Not exagerating... I lived it... the thermometer reach 40 by 9 am on our patio and I walked it...Either the thermometer was wrong or I need glasses... point being I wont quibble about 1 degree up or down. The question was: is it hot... and yes it was hot.
 
the thermometer reach 40 by 9 am on our patio and I walked it...Either the thermometer was wrong or I need glasses...

The thermometer was wrong for sure. I'm not saying it wasn't hot but it wasn't as outrageously hot. 30ºC -give or take one or two degrees- at 9 a.m. may be possible but 40ºC at 9 a.m. definitely not... and not just in Zamora but I'd say that everywhere in Spain except, maybe, a breaking records day somewhere on the South.
 
the thermometer reach 40 by 9 am on our patio
40ºC at 9 a.m. definitely not..
You can both be right! The weather data is collected under more controlled conditions, at outdoor weather stations. These readings are probably more consistent and useful for comparison of different climates. However, the temperature on a sheltered deck could be considerably higher. e.g. 40, even when the official climate record might be 35.
 
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It will be hot. Last year was extreme, I am told. I was hospitalera in Zamora, second forthnight in July. Morning temperature reached 40 by 9 am. Most pilgrims left by 5 am. Post Zamora, I walked the Sanabres from Ourense onwards... average temp. 35-40 celcius... water shortage in fountains (not many) and at time no shade.

Once I adjusted to the temperature, I loved it. Best purchase in Zamora... a handheld Spanish fan. When I walked, started early mornings and carried more water to drink, everytime I found some water source, I filled my hat and dumped the water over my head to cool down...was dry within minutes. Be prepared, walk early and pace yourself.
Buen Camino.

I walked last few summers, i volunteered 3 times. Last summer I felt in love with Zamora, and I'll be hospitalera there second half of July, just like you! Any practical advice, dos or don't s? -other than about heat (I just finished Granada-Cordoba short part, it was extra hot already. Similar to last year Toledo-Avilla).
 
You can both be right! The weather data is collected under more controlled conditions, at outdoor weather stations. These readings are probably more consistent and useful for comparison of different climates. However, the temperature on a sheltered deck could be considerably higher. e.g. 40, even when the official climate record might be 35.

I'm well aware that the official temperatures measured on climate stations don't always agree with those given by other thermometers; not to say those given by thermometers located in places subject to special conditions. In fact, I see it where I live where in summer thermometers on sunny streets usually give temperatures on the evening higher than those officially provided by the climate station (I check both -almost- daily). However, I don't see a 40ºC reading outdoors at 9 a.m. as (too) feasible. I'm talking based in my personal experience. I'm from somewhere on the meseta with summer temperatures similar to those in Zamora and, if memory serves me right, I have never ever seen a thermometer showing a temperature close to 40ºC at 9 a.m. I had relatives (RIP) from a town in Zamora province with a climate similar to that in Zamora city and I've never ever heard them to talk about anything close to 40ºC at 9 a.m. I'm aware that some indoor places can get really hot under certain circunstances (e.g.: a small indoor place with a tin roof that gets sun all the day) but the 40ºC at 9 a.m. were measured in a patio (i.e.: outdoors and I assume -maybe wrongly- that unsheltered) and as much as some corners in patios can get really hot too and definitely hotter than the officially measured temperature in town, I don't think they can get as hot as 40ºC at 9 a.m. in the (North) Meseta (I never heard a local with a patio saying it) even in a July as hot as last years' one. Therefore, I think the thermometer was -definitely- wrong although, of course, it might be me who is wrong but even in the case I was wrong, the 40ºC at 9 a.m. would be misleading because out of the specific place (the patio) with the special circunstances that made the temperature rise so much (location of the thermometer within that specific patio), the temperature would be (way) lower (i.e. hot but not that hot).

Sorry for the -probably unnecessary- long reply but climate is one of my passions so, please, bear with me. And thank you, @C clearly , for your post because it's true it seemed @IngridF and myself were talking about two different types of temperatures (home measured ones vs official measured ones) that you tried nicely to conciliate.


Peace with you too! And thank you for posting your personal experience. Regardless the temperature it really made and regardless whether the thermometer was wrong or not, hot is a someway subjective feeling and you felt it was as hot as the 40ºC quoted by the thermometer (it doesn't really matter if the thermometer was right or wrong) and there's nothing wrong with it. In fact, your feelings about the temperature are more relevant than the temperature itself.
 
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I started in June and finished in time for St James. Copped last summer's heatwave. I was lucky as I seemed to attract the cooler weather. Take a reflective umbrella. It lowers the temp by a couple of degrees around your head and that can make all the difference to your sanity. I find that hats trap the heat and I feel hotter. The umbrella used to come out when it hit 35 degrees and was walking on the blacktop.
Now I don't mind the heat as I live in the tropics and we get a humid heat. The heat in Spain is a dry heat in summer. The danger of that is that the sweat evaporates straight off your skin and you don't realise how much water you are losing until you run out. I assume 1 litre per hour and on those really hot days that is the safest estimate.. Yes, that means some days you need to carry lots of water eg the stage going to Almaden through the Sierra Norte. There is no water in the park except for a large trough. And the first half is highway. I carried a 3 litre water bladder and had poppers of drinks eg fruit juice. Also carry sweet stuff to munch on as sugar metabolises to water. It's heavy to begin with but believe me it goes fast.
Another risky time are the days around Caparra. Long distances potentially depending on which route you take. My buddy ran out of water there, I had 200 mL left on a stinking hot day and the vending machines were locked inside the visitor centre on a Sunday afternoon because the staff had left early. Make sure you have the phone numbers of the local accomodation as the guy will pick you up.
 
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I can only add to Donna's post above: the stage around Cáparra indeed is risky as one of my friends ran out of water as well, so something's going on there. She managed to get to a restaurant a few hundred meters off Camino, that was closed, but someone was there by coincidence to help her. It is the only stage that I felt to be much longer than the distance given in the guidebook, guidebook says fewer than 30 kilometers but I find that hard to believe. Perhaps people are miscalculating the amount of water they need.

The idea of an umbrella is excellent. I used it for the first time last summer on the Sureste: you may cause one or two smiles amongst the people you meet but it is totally worth it. A portabel shade = yes please.

/BP
 
I walked last few summers, i volunteered 3 times. Last summer I felt in love with Zamora, and I'll be hospitalera there second half of July, just like you! Any practical advice, dos or don't s? -other than about heat (I just finished Granada-Cordoba short part, it was extra hot already. Similar to last year Toledo-Avilla).
Marianna, you will love Zamora albergue. Built into the wall, it is a very unique place. Some things to consider:

Unless they got insurance, you will not be able to use the elevator. The entrance ( a bit confusing to pilgrims coming across the bridge) is on the top street level. Have lots of iced water ready and some juicy fruits for the exhausted pilgrims. Some will show up before the albergue opens (for sure if it is hot hot hot... they have walked since dark). My partner and I, if we were around, opened the door for the backpacks and bics, and then send them off into town to have a beer.

Also, when I was there, the computer did not work, but there is WIFI. It also has an intercom system for music, that we did use, soothing for intake... and just in case we had some stragglers in the morning, increasing in volume in the morning!

OH and bring earplugs, even if you are alone in a room. Zamora is famous for their fiestas and concerts and the drums will go well into the wee morning hours on Friday and Saturday night for sure!

The time you will be serving, the #'s will have dropped, except for about 3 days prior to St. James Day, you will have a lot of pilgrims on bikes. (btw, I love my bicygrinos... they were clean and no fuss or muss about backpacks in the dorm). I learned to respect them a lot, watching how they baby their bicycles, like we pilgrims treasure our feet!

Since the #'s had dropped, we did not have to open (except 2 days) the dorms on the upper streetlevel (hospitalero room is there too) because of that, I did not share a room with the my companion hospitalera, instead, I choose the big dorm room with the balcony door overlooking the river. I had moved my bed as close to the balcony as possible to enjoy the breeze of the river and look at the nightsky and watch the storks on the steeple. Oh those storks, I miss them, even though they were noisy!

The coolest place, temperature wise, is in the lowest level, dining room and kitchen and laundry. I spend a fair amount of free time there because of it, also I liked to put on a pot of soup to have it handy for late arriving pilgrims, who were crazy enough to walk from Salamanca... arriving totally exhausted.

Because of various reasons, (1st day we had the ambulance at the door) we had sick people every day. I kept one of the small rooms as my sick room and it worked out great. With a proper Drs. note, pilgrims were allowed to stay on to recuperate.

Because of the heat, pilgrims started to walk early, so the posted breakfast time was not practical. Being an early riser myself, I took on breakfast and had it ready by 5:30. Usually between 7, we had no pilgrims left in the albergue and D'Olor and I had worked out a routine, that by about by 10, we were done with our chores. I did the dorms and laundry(fresh linen every day - my rules), she did the rest and we both buttered around in the kitchen.

Keep in mind, this albergue, albeit very modern, has no aircondition, or fans etc, not even in the office (anyway last year), so I got myself a handheld fan. I tried to get used to the Spanish custom to having all windows and doors closed to keep the heat out, but as soon as D'Olor would take her siesta, I opened the shutters for the office, door and out to the patio to get some airflow, even if it was hot air. Now, you can imagine, as soon as I took siesta, everything got shut down again. lol

On average we served 20 pilgrims daily, so all the midlevel dorms were full. Since we were done with our work fairly early (unless it was a vaporetta day - hot steam machine to kill anything that crawls, including bedbugs - wonderful contraption - every albergue should have that!), the 2 of us enjoyed lots of leisure time and explored Zamora. We also took a stroll into town each evening after the pilgrims were settle for our icecream and a short walk by the river, a chance to debrief the day.

Oh, there was a little bar down the road, just before you turn to go uphill to the albergue, the owner was the nicest person to befriend, lots of free coffee and then fruit from the garden for the pilgrims. It also was the closest bar for the pilgrims, but we had to be careful not to play favorites.

There are not many rules in Zamora... basically the person that overseas this place does not live in town and never comes, but you talk to him in an emergency over the phone. He has a local person, very nice chap, who once in a while comes to see if we needed any help and we did. (speaks little english, but understands a lot). We were basically told, you are in charge, use your best judgement and make this your home. However, NEVER ask for a donation (just point to the box - pilgrims will ask) and you MUST use the Vaporetta.

There was a bit of a confusion regarding issuing credentials for beginning pilgrims, we had some, the little church had some (the tourist office did not!), and the cathedral did not, but there was another place, it was the cloister with the nuns (sorry forgot the name), but they have weird hours. Oh, do make friends with the lady that looks after the church, she is fun company.

Marianna, please keep in mind, the above is what I experienced and how D'Olor and I served as hospitaleras. We got along wonderfully, same ideas etc, which made it such a wonderful experience too. The pilgrims were just a delight (they might have been exhausted and grouchy on arrival, but all smiles in the morning) and I think they felt that we made them welcome in "our" home and it showed in their messages in the book and the hugs and pictures we all took together. Some pilgrims called us the Parador of albergues... well, as it should be, especially since the Parador is just around the corner :D.

I LOVED my time there, and would go back in a heartbeat! Since this became a rather long post, feel free to contact me via email should you have anymore questions. I pm'd the email.

(tx Castilian, I am too trusting)

Buen Camino, and greet my storks! Ingrid
 
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Thank you all for your sound advice. I am used to hot and humid weather having lived near Montreal and also in Vermont and spent summers in Spain. I think that I will risk it. I will carry extra water and just take it easy.

I have no intention of sleeping in refuges but rather under the stars in my sleeping bag. I have a tarp that I can use if it rains. I just love sleeping outdoors and would not think of sleeping inside a stuffy room in the summer.

I wonder if I will have a problem sleeping outside. I will do it stealth of course and be very inconspicuous.

But that heat. I will have to be careful in July. I arrive in Paris on 23 June and will make my way down to Pamplona the following week. Then on to Seville.
 
Thank you all for your sound advice. I am used to hot and humid weather having lived near Montreal and also in Vermont and spent summers in Spain. I think that I will risk it. I will carry extra water and just take it easy.

I have no intention of sleeping in refuges but rather under the stars in my sleeping bag. I have a tarp that I can use if it rains. I just love sleeping outdoors and would not think of sleeping inside a stuffy room in the summer.

I wonder if I will have a problem sleeping outside. I will do it stealth of course and be very inconspicuous.

But that heat. I will have to be careful in July. I arrive in Paris on 23 June and will make my way down to Pamplona the following week. Then on to Seville.

It's just that during a heat wave the nights are tropical. Some of us tried to sleep outside, but it was too hot and the albergue didn't have any AC. So there was no way to escape: not outside nor inside. Since then, places with AC are important to me...

/BP
 
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I wonder if I will have a problem sleeping outside.

Some points to have in mind:
  • As a general rule, wild camping is forbidden what IMHO would be enough reason to sleep indoors.
  • To make fire is forbidden too and heavily fined.
  • It's summer and students are on holidays and wander around by night (e.g.: partying...)
  • It's summer and you can find towns celebrating the local fiestas what means noise till late.
  • Be aware of local wildlife. It might be wolves on some areas; just to quote an example.
 

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