VDLP or Sanabres?

[BrienC]

I have a while yet to decide, but wondering what people think about the choices. I plan to trek Seville to Santiago later this year. Should I finish up on the CF from Astorga or take the Camino Sanabres into Santiago?
I completed the CF last year but was moving so fast that I didn't stop to see much. Interested in touring the Templar castle in Ponferrada and such. However, I'm interested too in seeing a completely new route.
Thoughts?

 

[Castilian]

Sanabrés. But don't rush it!

 

[BrienC]

Definitely not planning to "rush it." Thank you.

 

[Juanajoanna]

I have the same dilemma. The Sanabres looks lovely with few people and beautiful scenery. However have decided to go via Astorga to get the "Frances" experience. I'm even looking forward to the crowds from Sarria onwards.

This is the kind of decision where you can't lose: either way will be a win.

Burn camino

 

[BrienC]

his is the kind of decision where you can't lose: either way will be a win.

Indeed. I like win or win.

 

[domigee]

You may not fancy the thought of crowds after walking the VdlP... In which case Sanabrés it is . Trust your mood.

 

[Olivares]

I loved the Frances, but to me trying a different Camino is a no brainer. I would love to go back in the future, but there is just too much undiscovered to, at this time, retrace steps.

BTW, one of the planning routines I did and enjoyed the most was studying the cultural aspects of the towns the night before. I can say I explored many churches, went into castles, climbed hills, never placing kms/day or time of the day ahead of a chance to explore a sight and learned something.

 

[Magwood]

Having walked both, I would definitely go for the Sanabres. But you don't have to decide until the last moment - maybe depending on whether you want to stay in step or out of step with others at the time.

 

[george.g]

Completely agree, however there are one or two hills that might have you questioning the wisdom of your choice, its more of a challange than the Astorga option (I've done both) I chose the Sanabres after seeing Maggies 'photos of the Sanabres, check her Mozarabe blog out.
Regards.
George

 

[mla1]

Most of the other people on the vdlp will be going on the Sanabres. So that might influence your decision.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I have a while yet to decide, but wondering what people think about the choices. I plan to trek Seville to Santiago later this year. Should I finish up on the CF from Astorga or take the Camino Sanabres into Santiago?
I completed the CF last year but was moving so fast that I didn't stop to see much. Interested in touring the Templar castle in Ponferrada and such. However, I'm interested too in seeing a completely new route.
Thoughts?

Hi,

Another option for you is: to go to Astorga on Vía de la Plata, then do about two stagest to Ponferrada on CF, and then take the Camino de Invierno towards Santiago. Each of these choices has its own character and is beautiful in its own weay, so differences concern mostly how crowded they are and what you prefer:

CF = crowded, as you know
Sanabrés = less crowded
Invierno = possibility of meeting almost no other pilgrim... But good marking, possibilities of lodging and so on.

Check it out!

Bye bye

/BP

 

[BrienC]

BTW, one of the planning routines I did and enjoyed the most was studying the cultural aspects of the towns the night before. I can say I explored many churches, went into castles, climbed hills, never placing kms/day or time of the day ahead of a chance to explore a sight and learned something.

Very well stated. I promised myself after completing the CF in 20 days that during my next Camino I would "explore more, stick my head—and the rest of me—into churches more often... I’ll venture into museums, and go off the beaten path, go to that village not on the Camino to experience real rural Spain, away from the pilgrim crowds and supporting infrastructure."

Thank you.

 

[BrienC]

Having walked both, I would definitely go for the Sanabres. But you don't have to decide until the last moment - maybe depending on whether you want to stay in step or out of step with others at the time.

Thank you Magwood. This is the first-hand opinion I was hoping for. That I have received other great suggestions is icing on the cake.

 

[BrienC]

Completely agree, however there are one or two hills that might have you questioning the wisdom of your choice, its more of a challange than the Astorga option (I've done both) I chose the Sanabres after seeing Maggies 'photos of the Sanabres, check her Mozarabe blog out.
Regards.
George

Hills don't bother me. As Katharine Hepburn said, "Not everyone is lucky enough to understand how delicious it is to suffer." Not saying a trek or pilgrimage should include suffering. It's just that, sometimes, a little suffering opens up bigger possibilities or at least a hell of a view at the top.

Thank you.

 

[BrienC]

Another option for you is: to go to Astorga on Vía de la Plata, then do about two stagest to Ponferrada on CF, and then take the Camino de Invierno towards Santiago.

Interesting third option. I'll check this out. It may come down to time, as I want to complete every step (just how I roll), but not rush.

Thank you.

 

[Magwood]

Thank you Magwood. This is the first-hand opinion I was hoping for. That I have received other great suggestions is icing on the cake.

Actually my response was a little misleading. I haven't walked to Astorga on the VdlP, so can't give an opinion on that section. I was referring to having walked the Camino Frances and experienced the stages from Astorga. But I would still recommend the Sanabrés.

 

[Castilian]

Interesting third option

Well, you have a fourth option: To leave the Vía de la Plata in Zamora and take the Camino Portugués de la Vía de la Plata (www.csj.org.uk/planning-your-pilgrimage/routes-to-santiago/routes-in-spain/the-camino-portugues-de-la-via-de-la-plata ) to Verín. Once in Verín, you continue to Santiago on the (Verín variant of the) Camino Sanabrés (that joins in Ourense with the Laza variant of the Camino Sanabrés).

 

[BrienC]

But I would still recommend the Sanabrés.

And I still value your input.

 

[BrienC]

Well, you have a fourth option:

Oh so many choices! Thank you for the link to the csj site. I'll be spending some time there.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Actually my response was a little misleading. I haven't walked to Astorga on the VdlP, so can't give an opinion on that section. I was referring to having walked the Camino Frances and experienced the stages from Astorga. But I would still recommend the Sanabrés.

Okay, I've done both but... In that case I would also go for the Sanabrés, as many above have suggested. Reasons: Upwards on the Plata to Astorga (on the stretch that doesn't connect with the Sanabrés) I remember a lot of asphalt (it doesn't bother me, but I know others don't like to walk on it) and sometimes confusing, or rather rudimentary, waymarkings. The markers looked like someone just recently put them there but without painting or putting any Camino-signs on them so I wasn't sure of what they were. There were also a few streches before and around Benavente that I didn't recognize from my guidebook at all. I was never lost but very unsure. Some streches were also horribly boring, but someone else may see them differently of course... And some nice towns, like Alija del Infantado and Benavente. And I saw a wolf before reaching Astorga! :O) On the whole, that part (more or less a week to reach Astorga) I count as one of the least interesting, so, as I said, I would turn to the Sanabrés if I was to do this again...

/BP

 

[BrienC]

And I saw a wolf before reaching Astorga!

That's amazing! Must have been pretty cool to see.

I'm certainly leaning Sanabrés. But going to go with the flow, or the mode, at the time.

Thanks everyone!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

That's amazing! Must have been pretty cool to see.

I'm certainly leaning Sanabrés. But going to go with the flow, or the mode, at the time.

Thanks everyone!

That's right, you don't have to decide until you ge to the spot. You won't be disappointed with the Sanabrés, so it's a safe option though... Buen camino!

BP

 

[Kiwi-family]

Just done our first day on the Sanabres. Best Day Yet.
We saw a fox and two eagles up close!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

That's amazing! Must have been pretty cool to see.

Yes it was cool, but shy as they are, he trotted away as soon as he saw me so our tête-à-tête was all over within a few seconds. I've seen another one: leaving Escalona on the Camino de Levante. So, keep your eyes open! :OD

/BP

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Just done our first day on the Sanabres. Best Day Yet.
We saw a fox and two eagles up close!

Nice,

So in Tábara now? Albergue municipal or hostal El Roble? :O)

 

[BrienC]

Just done our first day on the Sanabres. Best Day Yet.
We saw a fox and two eagles up close!

Also pretty darned call. I was somewhat disappointed on the CF last year, not seeing much wildlife. Then, I saw a huge badger. A fleeting appearance, but very cool.

 

[BrienC]

So, keep your eyes open!

Absolutely! I plan to take it all in. I would say I did last year too, just at a quicker pace.

 

[Castilian]

That's amazing! Must have been pretty cool to see

You have more chances to see a wolf on the Sanabrés. The Sierra de la Culebra (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sierra_de_la_Culebra) is well-know for the presence of wolfs. Tábara is on an edge of the Sierra de la Culebra so, probably, not the best place in the area to look for wolfs but better than places, like Astorga, located in other areas.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

You have more chances to see a wolf on the Sanabrés. The Sierra de la Culebra (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sierra_de_la_Culebra) is well-know for the presence of wolfs. Tábara is on an edge of the Sierra de la Culebra so, probably, not the best place in the area to look for wolfs but better than places, like Astorga, located in other areas.

Thanks. I read it. Interesting. Therefore the woolf-trap-and-stuff-around Lubián I guess!

 

[BrienC]

Sierra de la Culebra

Looks beautiful. More weight to the Sanabrés side of the scale.

 

[Castilian]

Therefore the woolf-trap-and-stuff-around Lubián I guess!

Lubián isn't in the Sierra de la Culebra but that doesn't mean it's in an area without (that sort of) wildlife. Being out of protected areas like the Sierra de la Culebra means (for good and for bad) less tourism. The wolf itself is protected in all the territory of Castile and Leon that is North of the Duero river. You can find loberas in other areas of Castile and León. In Burgos province, for example, it's well-known the Lobera de Perex (www.turismoburgos.org/en/destino/cultural/lobera-de-perex). However, we should be aware that the existence of loberas shows a relevant presence of wolves in the past but doesn't necessarily mean there's (a relevant) presence of them nowadays. BTW, talking about the wolf in Spain, we shouldn't forget about http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Félix_Rodríguez_de_la_Fuente

Looks beautiful.

For some more info in English: www.turismozamora.es/index.php/en/nature/sierra-de-la-culebra

www.centrodellobo.es (It seems this web is just in Spanish, try an online translator)

If you read Spanish, there's a guide available at: www.turismozamora.es/index.php/en/downloads/category/guia-turistica-de-la-sierra-de-la-culebra

 

[Kiwi-family]

Completely brown creature with a white-tipped tail. I'm a city-slicker and wouldn't have a clue, but it was a quick brown fox.....and I've always imagined (perhaps wrongly) to have a bit of variation in their colouring.

We stayed at the municipal in Tabara, having escaped the clutches of a very pushy lady who dragged us in to a ?hotel? Just off the Plaza Mayor!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Completely brown creature with a white-tipped tail. I'm a city-slicker and wouldn't have a clue, but it was a quick brown fox.....and I've always imagined (perhaps wrongly) to have a bit of variation in their colouring.

We stayed at the municipal in Tabara, having escaped the clutches of a very pushy lady who dragged us in to a ?hotel? Just off the Plaza Mayor!

It could be the owner of El Roble, it's next to the Plaza as I recall it...

I have stayed in the municipal as well, a few years ago, when it was "unattended" (get the keys and manage yourself), but now it seems that they have a hospitalero who's in place to welcome the pilgrims?

 

[Donna Sch]

We stayed at the municipal in Tabara, having escaped the clutches of a very pushy lady who dragged us in to a ?hotel? Just off the Plaza Mayor!

That's her! My Spanish male walking buddy was totally useless at deflecting her so we ended up staying there. You still end up sharing a bathroom with a few other people despite paying more.

 

[Kiwi-family]

It could be the owner of El Roble, it's next to the Plaza as I recall it...

I have stayed in the municipal as well, a few years ago, when it was "unattended" (get the keys and manage yourself), but now it seems that they have a hospitalero who's in place to welcome the pilgrims?

welcome, do washing, cook dinner, show short movie, give speech, take you to see sunset, prepare breakfast....this Hospitalero does it all!!

 

[camino07]

Have loved reading your amazing blog,Rachael. Your children are troopers and so much more grown up since I said hello and took your photo in Santiago two years ago. Congrats on reaching Santiago once more.