VDLP - Sanabres: about skipping Granja de Moruela

[chinasky]

Hola, as already told, I'm planning my Via de la Plata and i'll start from Sevilla on april, the 30th. I was wondering if, in order to skip a stage or to save a day, it's doable to go directly from Montamarta to Tabara. I've read somewhere that the stage will be almost entirely on a carretera with a lot of traffic busy and no space for pedestrians. Can anyone who made this choice give me some guidance?

Thanks a lot! Buen camino!

 

[nalod]

I am just back from the Seville to Astorga and then to Santiago. I liked the route from Montamarta to Granja, not all roses but nicer than the section I mention below . I cannot comment on the section to Tabara as I did not do it this time , done it a few years ago.

There is one stage I have mentioned on my Via de la Plata updates post https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/live-updates-february-2016.38216/, Some advice Re the hike Salamanca to Zamora. The hike from Salamanca to El Cubo is tedious unpleasant very much beside busy noise motorway. If you want to bus a stretch this is the one. I think the many buses from Salamanca to Zamora stop here .
I also think the distances given in most guide's are wrong. The guides say 34 km it is nearer 38. This is what the locals tell me.

I post two photos to give an idea I have reduced the file hugely so they wont slow down this thread. First one is the stage outside Salamanca. The second is just outside Montamarta.

 

[chinasky]

Thanks a lot @nalod! I've taken into account to take that bus from Salamanca, although I do not like taking the bus when I walk, I'll be away 36 days and I think I'll need a couple of days off. One could be this one .

 

[nalod]

Thanks a lot @nalod! I've taken into account to take that bus from Salamanca, although I do not like taking the bus when I walk, I'll be away 36 days and I think I'll need a couple of days off. One could be this one .

In 2012 I walked from Seville to Santiago via the Sanabraes in 32 days, it was a little too fast, there was another Pilgrim one day ahead of me all the way. I then went to Finnistere, still could not stop so went to Le Puy and walked 400km there.

If you like longer days and your health keeps up it is possible in 36 days, whether it is is wise is another matter.

 

[Magwood]

I totally agree with @nalod about the walk into el Cubo - very tedious and my gps recorded 38.8 km

I was tempted to do as you are considering, simply because a pilgrim I had become friendly with urged me to join him in walking directly from Montemarta to Tabera. I decided not to. The second part of the walk from Montemarta to Granja de Moreruela was also hard going with a few signage difficulties. But the next stage from Granja to Tabera was one of the highlights of my Camino - the scenery was just magical - a truly memorable day. Don't miss it!

If you want a spoiler, see my blog entry here
Buen Camino!

 

[chinasky]

If you like longer days and your health keeps up it is possible in 36 days, whether it is is wise is another matter.

Thanks @nalod !

If you want a spoiler, see my blog entry here

Thanks @Magwood, i know your blog very well, i've studied it and wrote a lot of your tips into my notebook! I'll see once on the way what to do and i'll keep it mind your suggestion.

 

[SYates]

Hola, as already told, I'm planning my Via de la Plata and i'll start from Sevilla on april, the 30th. I was wondering if, in order to skip a stage or to save a day, it's doable to go directly from Montamarta to Tabara. I've read somewhere that the stage will be almost entirely on a carretera with a lot of traffic busy and no space for pedestrians. Can anyone who made this choice give me some guidance?

Thanks a lot! Buen camino!

I did that short cut and yes, it is entirely on/alongside the national road. Buen Camino, SY

 

[Castilian]

I've read somewhere that the stage will be almost entirely on a carretera with a lot of traffic busy and no space for pedestrians.

I did that short cut and yes, it is entirely on/alongside the national road. Buen Camino, SY

Satellital views of the area show an off-road option for most of the route. However, they also show it (the off-road option) crosses twice the works to make the high speed train line what may/might mean is an unavailable option right now (restricted and/or forbidden pass due to the works). Once the high speed train line is finished, it's not sure they'll make crossings where it would be needed to walk that route without making detours (we'll have to wait till the high speed train line is finished to know) but it may be something to research by adventorous people willing to walk from Montamarta to Tábara because that way you would avoid most of the walk on the shoulder of the road (what, IMHO, would be a great thing if it was possible) although, OTOH, you would increase your chances of getting lost (because I don't think the off-road option is marked) if you don't have a GPS or a good updated map of the área (and are able to read them properly).

 

[KinkyOne]

There's road option to the right after crossing the bridge (dam?) Puente Quintos over Rio Esla well before Faramontanos de Tabara. I took natural path to the left by the banks of the river/embalse and then up to a beautiful rocky point with views all around. At some points a little bit overgrown but beautiful stretch.

You only cross AVE construction site after Faramontanos de Tabara (2 bars with tienda in one of them where you can also collect a key for a village multipurpose hall at the other end of the village, with 2 beds, showers, toilets, fridge) maybe a kilometer or two before coming to Tabara. Last summer this crossing wasn't problematic although overpass was being build at that time.

Even less was the second one from Tabara in direction of Villanueva de las Peras (or Bercianos de Valverde - 2 options) where overpass was already built. I can't see any reasons for major changes of Camino on that stretch in the future.

 

[Castilian]

There's road option to the right after crossing the bridge (dam?) Puente Quintos over Rio Esla well before Faramontanos de Tabara. I took natural path to the left by the banks of the river/embalse and then up to a beautiful rocky point with views all around. At some points a little bit overgrown but beautiful stretch.

You only cross AVE construction site after Faramontanos de Tabara (2 bars with tienda in one of them where you can also collect a key for a village multipurpose hall at the other end of the village, with 2 beds, showers, toilets, fridge) maybe a kilometer or two before coming to Tabara. Last summer this crossing wasn't problematic although overpass was being build at that time.

You are talking about the first stage of the Camino Sanabrés from Granja de Moreruela to Tábara, aren't you?

Just to make it clear: I was talking about going straight from Montamarta to Tábara without passing through Granja de Moreruela (i.e.: to make one stage Montamarta-Tábara instead of two stages: Montamarta-Granja de Moreruela and Granja de Moreruela-Tábara).

 

[KinkyOne]

You are talking about the first stage of the Camino Sanabrés from Granja de Moreruela to Tábara, aren't you?

You're right Castilian. I re-read OP, my bad.
Won't hurt if I second Maggie on recommendation of Granja-Tabara stage though

 

[Castilian]

Won't hurt if I second Maggie on recommendation of Granja-Tabara stage though

...and, if you let me, I'll say it would be a pitty to miss the (ruins of the) Monasterio de Santa María de Moreruela.

 

[LTfit]

I second Castilian here, don't miss the Cisterian Monastery. It is well worth the detour, I in fact did this twice but I never went into Granja. Another option is to walk Zamora to Riego del Camino then Riego (detour Monastery) straight to Tábara via the scenic route Kinky describes: after Puente to the left. It is very doable if you can walk 30+ km stages.

 

[peregrina2000]

I'll add my two cents of agreement with Castilian, Kinky and LT. I've been at the Cistercian monastery twice. Once was when I slept in Granja, and just took a stroll out to the monastery from town. It was a weekend afternoon, so there was a guided tour, a few people, but the highlight for me was sitting in the grass behind the absolutely majestic apses. The sign in Granja says it's 4 km out to the monastery, but it's nowhere near that long, and is definitely worth it.

The second time was when I walked the Levante and had slept in Riegos. We decided there was no reason to go into Granja, so we took the detour but did manage to spend some time at the monastery, which, unfortunately was not open for my companions to see. But those apses were still there and waiting for us.

So either way, whether you sleep in Granja or not, you should figure out a way to see that place. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[LTfit]

And might I add, it is still worthwhile even if closed. Both times my walking partners and I climbed over the stone wall to the entrance (not high and I am only 169 cm) to visit. You will have no tour but the ruins are certainly some of the most beautiful ruins that I have every seen.