VDLP - Starting March 6, 2016, near Salamanca

[C clearly]

I've booked a flight to arrive in Madrid on March 5. (I confess that this is less than 5 months after I started at SJPP in October 2015, but it is the only suitable period I have in 2016, so I am forced to go again this soon.)

The VdlP was my original plan, but when my sister-in-law (first time pilgrim) agreed to come with me, I thought about doing part of the Camino Frances first for its "classic" experience and more flexible itinerary. However, the idea of Easter week crowds didn't appeal and I would probably take on the annoying role of tour guide with her. The VdlP will be new to both of us. We are keeping the trip to 6 weeks total, and don't want to plan an average of over 20 km/day, so even Merida was a bit far as a starting point. I considered Caceres, but the next stage or 2 seemed a bit uncertain for timing and accommodation, and I'd like the first couple of days to be straightforward. So, we'll probably start walking in Salamanca, or in Banos de Montemayor if I can find convenient bus transportation to get there from Madrid. Any suggestions about the starting point would be welcome.

Now that the flight is booked, I can turn to the more entertaining planning minutia and "To Do" lists!

 

[Castilian]

Enjoy every step and every stop of your camino(s).

or in Banos de Montemayor if I can find convenient bus transportation to get there from Madrid.

Cevesa (www.cevesa.es) has direct buses from Madrid to Baños de Montemayor.

 

[HeidiL]

I will be in Salamanca February 29th to March 9th (Spanish course) - drop me a line here if you would like to meet for some tapas there!

 

[C clearly]

Enjoy every step and every stop of your camino(s).
Cevesa (www.cevesa.es) has direct buses from Madrid to Baños de Montemayor.

Thank you so much. That is a big help! I like the idea of starting there and walking into Salamanca.

 

[C clearly]

I will be in Salamanca February 29th to March 9th (Spanish course) - drop me a line here if you would like to meet for some tapas there!

I have never been to Salamanca, but I have long thought about taking a Spanish course there! Where are you doing it? We might just arrive on March 9 - will you be leaving that day or the next?

 

[HeidiL]

http://www.tiatula.com/ - but there are several schools, and I don't think they can be very different. My son (19) and I will be taking different courses, me for one week, he's staying for two weeks.

 

[alansykes]

we'll probably start walking in Salamanca, or in Banos de Montemayor

If you do start in Baños de Montemayor, I'd recommend doing the "circuito romano" of sauna etc in the balneario there. Most relaxing, although probably more so after a fortnight on the camino than just before setting out. There's quite a big discount if you show your credencial when buying your ticket.

Hope to be passing through there this November, dv.

Buen camino.

 

[C clearly]

If you do start in Baños de Montemayor, I'd recommend doing the "circuito romano" of sauna etc in the balneario there. Most relaxing, although probably more so after a fortnight on the camino than just before setting out.

Good idea, if we decide we need a day to recover from the journey before we start walking. I'll see what I can find out about it!

 

[elizason]

I've booked a flight to arrive in Madrid on March 5. (I confess that this is less than 5 months after I started at SJPP in October 2015, but it is the only suitable period I have in 2016, so I am forced to go again this soon.)

The VdlP was my original plan, but when my sister-in-law (first time pilgrim) agreed to come with me, I thought about doing part of the Camino Frances first for its "classic" experience and more flexible itinerary. However, the idea of Easter week crowds didn't appeal and I would probably take on the annoying role of tour guide with her. The VdlP will be new to both of us. We are keeping the trip to 6 weeks total, and don't want to plan an average of over 20 km/day, so even Merida was a bit far as a starting point. I considered Caceres, but the next stage or 2 seemed a bit uncertain for timing and accommodation, and I'd like the first couple of days to be straightforward. So, we'll probably start walking in Salamanca, or in Banos de Montemayor if I can find convenient bus transportation to get there from Madrid. Any suggestions about the starting point would be welcome.

Now that the flight is booked, I can turn to the more entertaining planning minutia and "To Do" lists!

Hello to All,
I really wanted to do Francigena but my only free time falls winter 2016 mid Jan- April 1st
And the weather and open hostels are a concern.
Thus, I am considering Vdlp
Would appreciate any suggestions for at least one month camino during this time frame
Thanks much
Eliza

 

[murraydv]

I've booked a flight to arrive in Madrid on March 5. (I confess that this is less than 5 months after I started at SJPP in October 2015, but it is the only suitable period I have in 2016, so I am forced to go again this soon.)

The VdlP was my original plan, but when my sister-in-law (first time pilgrim) agreed to come with me, I thought about doing part of the Camino Frances first for its "classic" experience and more flexible itinerary. However, the idea of Easter week crowds didn't appeal and I would probably take on the annoying role of tour guide with her. The VdlP will be new to both of us. We are keeping the trip to 6 weeks total, and don't want to plan an average of over 20 km/day, so even Merida was a bit far as a starting point. I considered Caceres, but the next stage or 2 seemed a bit uncertain for timing and accommodation, and I'd like the first couple of days to be straightforward. So, we'll probably start walking in Salamanca, or in Banos de Montemayor if I can find convenient bus transportation to get there from Madrid. Any suggestions about the starting point would be welcome.

Now that the flight is booked, I can turn to the more entertaining planning minutia and "To Do" lists!

I've booked a flight to arrive in Madrid on March 5. (I confess that this is less than 5 months after I started at SJPP in October 2015, but it is the only suitable period I have in 2016, so I am forced to go again this soon.)

The VdlP was my original plan, but when my sister-in-law (first time pilgrim) agreed to come with me, I thought about doing part of the Camino Frances first for its "classic" experience and more flexible itinerary. However, the idea of Easter week crowds didn't appeal and I would probably take on the annoying role of tour guide with her. The VdlP will be new to both of us. We are keeping the trip to 6 weeks total, and don't want to plan an average of over 20 km/day, so even Merida was a bit far as a starting point. I considered Caceres, but the next stage or 2 seemed a bit uncertain for timing and accommodation, and I'd like the first couple of days to be straightforward. So, we'll probably start walking in Salamanca, or in Banos de Montemayor if I can find convenient bus transportation to get there from Madrid. Any suggestions about the starting point would be welcome.

Now that the flight is booked, I can turn to the more entertaining planning minutia and "To Do" lists!

C Clearly. I am doing the VDLP, about 9 days each year. This May, I will travel back to La Caldaza de Bejar and continue from there. In 2 days, (about 75 klm) I will reach Salamanca. You say that you are doing 6 weeks and an average of 20 klm per day. Even if you take 7 days rest, that is still 35 days walking and, at 20 klm per day, that amounts to 700 klm (including 7 rest days). Technically, Merida is not too far off that at 714 klm from Santiago. Merida is a magnificent place to visit. Google it and look at images.
Salamanca is a good starting point, however. You will be approximately 493 klm from Santiago and, if you cover an average of 20 klm per day, you will do it in 25 walking days, well within the six weeks. It is a good starting point, because it is easy to get to. There is no magic formula for 20 klm per day and good accommodation options at the end of it. I would suggest that you do your online homework on the stages, distances and accommodation before you plan. If you need some good websites, let me know. But they should be easy enough to find. Melany McManus has a very good app for iPhones and iPads. It covers distances between towns, description of towns, accommodation options etc. It is very useful. Take a look at http://www.melaniemcmanus.com/apps/
Remember again that, no matter where you start, you may end up walking a little less or a little more than 20 klm.

In terms of getting to Salamanca, that is very easy. there is a very good train service between Madrid and Salamanca. I will be doing it in May. So, here are some useful tips. When you arrive in Madrid, get the metro (Pink no 8 line) from the airport to Nuevos Ministerios (about 4th stop from airport terminal 2). Then get the blue number 10 line (travelling North to Hospital Infanta Sofia) and travel only about 4 stops to Chamartin. Get off at Chamartin. You will then be at the train station that will take you to Salamanca. See the metro map at http://www.metromadrid.es/export/sites/metro/comun/documentos/planos/Planoesquematicoingles.pdf

The Renfe trains run from Chamartin (Madrid) to Salamanca regularly. Look at the Renfe website http://www.renfe.com/EN/viajeros/
The website timetable only goes out to end of February at the moment, so you will not be able to look at March 5th. I would expect that March will be updated in the website at the end of January. But if you look at February 29th, you will see that there are eleven trains running between Chamartin train station in Madrid to Salamanca. When selecting the departure City in the website, select Madrid (Todas). That is Madrid all stations. This is a very easy way to get to Salamamca. By the way, if you don't want to take the metro, I believe that there is a train from airport terminal 4 that takes you directly to Chamartin train station.
Do your homework on distances between towns, accommodation options etc.
Buen Camino
Dave Murray

 

[C clearly]

Thanks for the helpful comments, @murraydv . Yes I am rethinking my starting point and may go back to Caceres or Merida.

 

[LauraK]

I walked from Salamanca to Santiago last March and highly recommend it. I planned for more walking days but finished in 20 days...I was not in great shape but found I walked farther a few days than planned. Salamanca is a great starting point. I would highly recommend spending a day or two to see the city. The Plaza Mayor is beautiful at night. Zamora is about 2-3 days from Salamanca and deserves a site-seeing day as well. The first few days out of Salamanca are relatively flat (farmland) and a good warm up before the mountains. I caught the ALSA bus directly from the Madrid airport. It was more convenient- the train would have required a 3 hour wait. I really enjoyed the Camino VdlP and Sanabres... I hope to start in Sevilla some day. I agree with Dave Murray on the Melanie McManus app. I found it very helpful.

 

[C clearly]

I caught the ... bus directly from the Madrid airport.

Thanks for the info about getting the bus right from the airport. For the benefit of others who might be looking, I think you meant the Avanza bus. (I couldn't find it on the Alsa site, but I did on Avanza.

 

[peregrina2000]

I considered Caceres, but the next stage or 2 seemed a bit uncertain for timing and accommodation, and I'd like the first couple of days to be straightforward.

Hi, C clearly, If Caceres makes the most sense as a starting point, I wouldn't worry about the next few stages.

Caceres to the private place on the embalse/reservoir is 35. If that's too many, you can split it easily with a short day (11) to Casar de Caceres, where there are both pensiones and an albergue. I did that years ago, because I wanted to spend the morning in Caceres and had arrived late from a 40 km walk the day before. It worked very well.

The private place on the reservoir is now named Alcantara Pesca Evasion, http://www.alcantarapescaevasion.com
They will take reservations, I know this because Damien wants to stay there on his Vdlp and I have been in touch with them for him. Happy to help you as well.

From there, you have some shorter stages, 21 to Grimaldo, 20 to Galisteo. After that comes Caparra and the long stretch between Carcaboso and Aldeanueva, but there are good workarounds, which I'd be happy to explain if you decide you want to start in Caceres. BTW, Caceres is a beautiful small city, its Renaissance core would be mobbed by throngs of tourists if it were in Tuscany, but it's in Extremadura so no one bothers.

 

[SYates]

@C clearly Seems we might meet again! Buen Camino, SY

 

[LauraK]

Thanks for the info about getting the bus right from the airport. For the benefit of others who might be looking, I think you meant the Avanza bus. (I couldn't find it on the Alsa site, but I did on Avanza.

Oops! You are correct. It was the Avanza bus.

 

[amorfati1]

I've booked a flight to arrive in Madrid on March 5. (I confess that this is less than 5 months after I started at SJPP in October 2015, but it is the only suitable period I have in 2016, so I am forced to go again this soon.)

The VdlP was my original plan, but when my sister-in-law (first time pilgrim) agreed to come with me, I thought about doing part of the Camino Frances first for its "classic" experience and more flexible itinerary. However, the idea of Easter week crowds didn't appeal and I would probably take on the annoying role of tour guide with her. The VdlP will be new to both of us. We are keeping the trip to 6 weeks total, and don't want to plan an average of over 20 km/day, so even Merida was a bit far as a starting point. I considered Caceres, but the next stage or 2 seemed a bit uncertain for timing and accommodation, and I'd like the first couple of days to be straightforward. So, we'll probably start walking in Salamanca, or in Banos de Montemayor if I can find convenient bus transportation to get there from Madrid. Any suggestions about the starting point would be welcome.

Now that the flight is booked, I can turn to the more entertaining planning minutia and "To Do" lists!

swoon -
will be looking forward to hear/read about your experiences there. VdlP would be my favorite 'other' camino - have been holding off though mainly because of those tales of 40km days - and as i clearly do not belong to that tribe who accomplishes that on a regular basis - i will wait. either for more stamina and willingness for those looong stages, or for albergues and pensiones to magically appear every 20 km or so
at any rate --- congrats on your booked flight - and wishing you all the fun of preparing and pondering and knowing you are off again soon.
that's a lovely stage as welll all in it self.
God's speed and buen camino all the way ...
warmly, C

 

[C clearly]

have been holding off though mainly because of those tales of 40km days - and as i clearly do not belong to that tribe who accomplishes that on a regular basis

I'm also from the average-20-km/day school of thought. Using godescalco.com and the albergue listing available here on the forum, I've reassured myself that it is do-able. Before Merida, there is one 28-km stage that can't be avoided, and another one afterward, and there is not a lot of flexibility in some other stages. I am hoping now to start in Merida, and fit the 790-km journey into 39 days, including 3 rest days, I have worked out a schedule that relies on the assistance of a taxi 3 times for a total of about 50 km. There are 5 days with distances between 25 and 28 km, but none are more and the average is only 22 km per walking day. That plan seems reasonable to me, but I fully realize that many things could interfere and change things. The schedule is a bit tight - if we lose one day, we'd have to catch up with a 35-km day before Santiago. That's OK! I've done what I can to prepare and will now let the camino unfold.

 

[amorfati1]

I'm also from the average-20-km/day school of thought. Using godescalco.com and the albergue listing available here on the forum, I've reassured myself that it is do-able. Before Merida, there is one 28-km stage that can't be avoided, and another one afterward, and there is not a lot of flexibility in some other stages. I am hoping now to start in Merida, and fit the 790-km journey into 39 days, including 3 rest days, I have worked out a schedule that relies on the assistance of a taxi 3 times for a total of about 50 km. There are 5 days with distances between 25 and 28 km, but none are more and the average is only 22 km per walking day. That plan seems reasonable to me, but I fully realize that many things could interfere and change things. The schedule is a bit tight - if we lose one day, we'd have to catch up with a 35-km day before Santiago. That's OK! I've done what I can to prepare and will now let the camino unfold.

Oh my, how very tempting! Am afraid you already told me too much and i am in danger to be 'hooked'.
it's very encouraging to now find out that are indeed stages on the VdlP that i might be able to manage! yiphee!!!
i could not get a strong feeling about another camino route - the VdlP had somehow intrigued me most - after the camino portuguese of course.
would you be willing to share with me - when returned - how the stages walked out?
then i might start with plotting my next camino ?!?!
thank you kindly --- and very best of wishes - and happy planning - and plotting ... and enjoying all the good vino and cibo (food) along the path. will stay tuned, very tuned
saluti, C

 

[C clearly]

the VdlP had somehow intrigued me most

I agree!

would you be willing to share with me - when returned - how the stages walked out?

Yes, of course. I will probably blog along the way, if you want to follow (see my blog address below).

 

[mla1]

I agree with Dave Murray on the Melanie McManus app. I found it very helpful.

I can't seem to find this app. Does anyone know if it has been discontinued?

 

[Magwood]

I can't seem to find this app. Does anyone know if it has been discontinued?

I just looked in the App Store (iPhone) and can't see it listed anymore, although it is still operating on my iPad.

I have just checked out Melanie's website with a link to the app. When I click the link I am told the app is no longer available at the UK store, but is available at the US store.

I also found it useful. But if you download it, take time to get to know it before you start walking (which I did not and consequently didn't get the best use of it during the first part of my Camino).
Buen Camino!

 

[Anniesantiago]

Ooohhhh..... I hate that you might miss Merida - it's just so fantastic!
Seems the further south you start, the warmer it might be also in March?
Why are you starting so far north? To be able to get to Santiago?
I loved the first stages on the VDLP.
Sevilla was incredible, and Italica, and I just wouldn't miss Merida or Caceres.

 

[peregrina2000]

Well, poor C clearly has the dilemma of not having enough time to walk from Sevilla to Santiago. I think that probably the "walk into Santiago" element is a fixed part of the plan, since sister-in-law has never walked a Camino. So that means that the only way they could start in Sevilla would be to take chunks out in between. C Clearly, one option (and I know you haven't asked for it, but I'm echoing Annie's opinion about the beauties of Sevilla, Merida and Caceres) would be to walk Sevilla to Caceres, then bus Caceres to Salamanca and carry on. If you needed even more time, you could visit Salamanca, then bus to Zamora (that stretch, between Salamanca and Zamora, is probably the least interesting of the entire Vdlp, IMO, but it's a short 80 km).

Caceres to Salamanca is beautiful and would be a shame to miss, but if I had to choose between missing Sevilla to Merida or Caceres to Salamanca, I would pick the latter.

Annie's point about the weather is well taken -- the farther south you start the better your weather will be in March.

I suppose another option would be to start in Sevilla and see how it goes. You may find that SIL gets hooked and is happy to walk this year as far as you can get and then return later to finish it up. That would be my preferred way to go, but I understand the pull of walking into Santiago for a first timer. You could hold off on deciding about bussing ahead till you get to Caceres and see how you feel -- at that point you might have a clear sense of whether you prefer to jump ahead and walk into Santiago or treat this year's walk as Part I, to be continued. Any way you do it, the Vdlp is a wonderful camino. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[C clearly]

Thanks @Anniesantiago and @peregrina2000 for your pressure. I had pretty much decided to move my start back to Merida and use a bit of taxi assistance if necessary to gain time. I am also thinking about all the suggestions you have made in your post, Laurie. I am tempted by the idea of starting in Seville, and don't think that reaching Santiago is critically important. Getting halfway there would certainly raise the "need" to do the other half next year! Also,I prefer the idea of just walking without worrying about any bus/taxi logistics and timelines.

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks @Anniesantiago and @peregrina2000 for your pressure. I had pretty much decided to move my start back to Merida and use a bit of taxi assistance if necessary to gain time. I am also thinking about all the suggestions you have made in your post, Laurie. I am tempted by the idea of starting in Seville, and don't think that reaching Santiago is critically important. Getting halfway there would certainly raise the "need" to do the other half next year! Also,I prefer the idea of just walking without worrying about any bus/taxi logistics and timelines.

I think I can say that no one ever regretted starting in Sevilla. You could easily spend a week or more there, but with a day while getting over jet lag, and maybe a little more, you can see some of the highlights.

And there are lots of us who can help you with how to break up what seem to be stages that are too long. Have you read Robin and John's blog from this winter? http://agoodwalkunspoiled.blogspot.com They had to make some unexpected changes, but I've always admired how they balance the "we're pilgrims" part vs. the "we need to get transportation here" part. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[OzAnnie]

Its exciting just watching your plans evolve, C clearly .
Buen Camino

 

[MileHighPair]

C clearly, we hope to see blog updates. We are also considering a Merida start, around the end of March. Any current info on the route, albergues, or good private rooms would be fantastic. It is interesting that your walks and ours have been so similar! In 2015 we did a long walk here in the USA instead of going to Spain. But it calls us again. Buen Camino!

 

[mla1]

I just looked in the App Store (iPhone) and can't see it listed anymore, although it is still operating on my iPad.
I have just checked out Melanie's website with a link to the app. When I click the link I am told the app is no longer available at the UK store, but is available at the US store.

Hi Magwood,
Thanks for checking.
My Canadian itunes store tells me it is not available too, including in the U.S. store.
mla

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi Magwood,
Thanks for checking.
My Canadian itunes store tells me it is not available too, including in the U.S. store.
mla

I think that Anniesantiago has contacted Melanie directly (which can be done via her website, http://www.melaniemcmanus.com ) and learned that there is some "issue" with the app. Not sure what it is, but it's too bad because a lot of people seem to like it. As a fallback, I'd get the free Eroski site on my phone if I were you. Even if you don't read Spanish, all the details about distances, albergues, etc. are easy to understand.

 

[mla1]

Hi Laurie,
Thanks for the info. The Eroski site is fabulous. The amount of information available, in general, is quite something. And the fact that one now often has a choice of where to sleep! I'm leaving late March.
ml

 

[janeburley]

Thanks for the helpful comments, @murraydv . Yes I am rethinking my starting point and may go back to Caceres or Merida.

Hi there, there is a bus that runs from Madrid airport direct to Salamanca see avanzabus.es hope this helps for anyone planning to do the VLP from there.