• For 2024 Pilgrims: €50,- donation = 1 year with no ads on the forum + 90% off any 2024 Guide. More here.
    (Discount code sent to you by Private Message after your donation)
  • ⚠️ Emergency contact in Spain - Dial 112 and AlertCops app. More on this here.

Search 69,459 Camino Questions

LIVE from the Camino VdlP via the Via Serrana - Resuming, Feb 2023

OnHellas

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Frances Sept/Oct 2017
Portuguese April 2018 (From Porto)
I’ve posted this here because we are on the way to the start of the VdlP......from La Linea on the Via Serrana.

So far we’ve managed a massive 900 meters of the way. That leaves virtually all of the 1240 km to Santiago for us to do.
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
I’ve posted this here because we are on the way to the start of the VdlP......from La Linea on the Via Serrana.

So far we’ve managed a massive 900 meters of the way. That leaves virtually all of the 1240 km to Santiago for us to do.


This is one of the routes that is very high on my dream list of Caminos. I would love to hear all about it and see pictures, either while you are walking or when you are home. Wishing you a wonderful 1240 kms! Buen camino, Laurie
 
I hiked the Augusta and looking forward to exploring the Serrana, don’t know when though.

I enjoyed the Augusta, mainly first stretch round the bay of Cadiz up to Jerez, as from there to Sevilla it turned flat, straight and dull at times.
As far as I know Serrana is more undulating and through wooded inland sierras.

Wish you well and don’t forget to keep us posted.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
A short day today although a bit more than our 900 meter day yesterday.
San Roque seemed a sensible target for day one proper and it went well.
Just over 8km of nice countryside once we’d left La Linea.
Fairly well marked with arrows and the online guide that I found was just about spot on.

Tomorrow we plan to go to San Martin del Tesorillo. Both accommodation places there are already fully booked......

Photos:- looking back at the rock of Gibraltar.
The tile at the start.
 

Attachments

  • 2BB95C5E-0CD0-4421-954C-B247CC829E31.jpeg
    2BB95C5E-0CD0-4421-954C-B247CC829E31.jpeg
    2.9 MB · Views: 124
  • AD5905BF-70B9-47F9-9F31-DB459B670DC1.jpeg
    AD5905BF-70B9-47F9-9F31-DB459B670DC1.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 109
There are many things in this world that impress me and put me in a state of awe. The Rock of Gibraltar is one of them. Thanks for posting this!
 
Join our full-service guided tour and let us convert you into a Pampered Pilgrim!
Our second day has taken us as far as San Martin del Tesorillo. A beautiful landscape to walk through, although of the 20km I’d say about 8 were on the road. Hey ho, you can’t have perfection all the time. There was a fairly long and rough descent in there too which needed some caution.
Another thing to rear it’s head. Very disappointingly so early in the walk is blisters. My partner suffers with her feet, to hot/to soft?? Even so, some carefully bought adjusted to fit footwear.....sandals and extra foot care it is then. Boots are heavy to carry though!

Tomorrow’s another day.

Oh, some of the cattle are big. Gulp.
 
If you
Our second day has taken us as far as San Martin del Tesorillo. A beautiful landscape to walk through, although of the 20km I’d say about 8 were on the road. Hey ho, you can’t have perfection all the time. There was a fairly long and rough descent in there too which needed some caution.
Another thing to rear it’s head. Very disappointingly so early in the walk is blisters. My partner suffers with her feet, to hot/to soft?? Even so, some carefully bought adjusted to fit footwear.....sandals and extra foot care it is then. Boots are heavy to carry though!

Tomorrow’s another day.

Oh, some of the cattle are big. Gulp.
If you can mention where you are staying and if it is clean and if you have to go somewhere for the key etc. would be great. Looking forward to hearing more. Thanks
 
Good request......
In La Linea we stayed at La Estaponera. €36 for an en-suite twin room. Clean and everything worked. Even had free tea and coffee in the reception.

San Roque we stayed in an apartment found on Booking.com which was super. €71 so it should be good. It’s advertised as Apartamento con Encanto.

Here in San Martin del Tesorillo we are at the Ochomin Hostel. It’s actually 800 meters away in El Secadero. Very clean. An en-suite twin for €35.

I hope that that is helpful.

Another bit of information.....the yellow arrows have been very good so far.
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
Just a couple of pics from today......I don’t think that the bones were pilgrim size.....thankfully, as there were a lot of them.
 

Attachments

  • 9E3BD2D0-0C43-44AC-BB22-B2754B3D2D6B.jpeg
    9E3BD2D0-0C43-44AC-BB22-B2754B3D2D6B.jpeg
    3.3 MB · Views: 83
  • BBF965F7-0B62-4C8B-90E3-AFC27044C00C.jpeg
    BBF965F7-0B62-4C8B-90E3-AFC27044C00C.jpeg
    3.1 MB · Views: 79
Day 4 took us to Jimena. A fantastic route that once out of town took us over some rolling hills that took a bit of exertion getting up.
Distant views, blue skies, a bit of a breeze. Lovely.
Once again the yellow arrows were our friends as was/is the Johnny Walker guide book online. Detailed and spot on. (Thank you Mr Walker).
One section was a bit thorny.....literally. A very narrow ascent through thorn bushes with hoof marks underfoot. Nice!

Tomorrow is another day but it looks as though I’ll be going solo as my partners feet seem to have fallen apart. The plan is for here to get the train to the next stop. Not ideal but we’ll give it a go.

Tonight’s lodging is the very nice Casa Henrietta as found on Booking.com. Not cheap but there’s a huge bed so happy days. Nights actually but, you know.

That’s it.
 

Attachments

  • D779C072-B7F4-4542-8B70-48E236A225EC.jpeg
    D779C072-B7F4-4542-8B70-48E236A225EC.jpeg
    649.2 KB · Views: 73
  • 38C6B503-6CDF-4842-8E39-33C55961CB9C.jpeg
    38C6B503-6CDF-4842-8E39-33C55961CB9C.jpeg
    4 MB · Views: 75
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Tonight’s lodging is the very nice Casa Henrietta as found on Booking.com.
You'll love your stay at Casa Henrietta. The owner is very helpful and will give you good advice on where to get tapas at local prices.
If you stay at Hotel Las Buitreras in El Colmenar, they have both dorm and private rooms. The walk from there to Cortes is stunning, taking you through a rugged canyon with gorgeous views. It would be quite difficult with foot problems, though, so the train may be a good option for your partner once again. The train goes through the same narrow canyon, so you can wave to her as she goes by. :)
Thanks for the live postings! It is fun to follow your progress.
IMG_4522 3.jpg

Tunnel for the train at the top left of this photo:
IMG_4505.jpg
 
Last edited:
You'll love your stay at Casa Henrietta. The owner is very helpful and will give you good advice on where to get tapas at local prices.
If you stay at Hotel Las Buitreras in El Colmenar, they have both dorm and private rooms. The walk from there to Cortes is stunning, taking you through a rugged canyon with gorgeous views. It would be quite difficult with foot problems, though, so the train may be a good option for your partner once again. The train goes through the same narrow canyon, so you can wave to her as she goes by. :)
Thanks for the live postings! It is fun to follow your progress.
View attachment 70469

Tunnel for the train at the top left of this photo:
View attachment 70474

Fascinating journal with lots of great information. Thanks for posting.
 
Well that’s another day done. I must say that the Johnny Walker guide had a major flaw in it today, I’ll get to that.
I set off alone from Jimena as the train would take the strain for Sarah.
The first 7.5km were great and a ham roll with a cold drink was most welcome in San Pablo de Buceite.
All good so far so I’m I wandered. After a bit of road walking I entered a Cañada Real and started to ascend.
Up and up, and then up a bit more.
Now, the problem with the guide! During the climb it was noted that there was a ruin after however far. There was. It was suggested that a deep breath be taken as the next kilometre would see more of the up word and a fair bit of steep thrown in. Again the guide was spot on.
So, my complaint? It should have suggested a hundred deep breaths!!!
Once the top was reached I found a natural seat, took in the views and some water and had a cake. Small mercies.
The rest of the walk was OK. Not easy and the yellow arrows were few and far between but again, the guide was spot on.

So here I am in El Colmenar. At the Hospederia Las Buitreras. €49.50 for a double room. The bed is tiny so we’ll see how that goes. Dinner was nice.
Sarah enjoyed the short train journey and finding her way. Resting at cafes for hours was the right thing. We have a new plan incubating for the rest of her Camino......

Tomorrow’s route looks interesting, I’ll let you know how I get on.332C2E1B-5FEF-4AC2-BD4E-0FDAEB8CBBB2.jpeg47FC53A3-C94B-4AE5-9AAA-8BAA6A78F2A0.jpeg
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
My natural seat photo is to big to load but above there is the railway crossing and a circling Griffon Vulture. No Pilgrim lunch for them today!
 
Sarah enjoyed the short train journey and finding her way. Resting at cafes for hours was the right thing. We have a new plan incubating for the rest of her Camino......
How nice you got to H. Las Buitreras! Those fossils around the bar were all collected by a previous owner there. He had marvelous stories about the buitretas he saw on his collecting trips. I'm glad you weren't lunch!

If it fits in with your plans, one thing Sara might enjoy while waiting for you is a trip to Cueva de la Pileta. It's quite a moving experience to stand in front of cave paintings made 20-30,000 years ago. The cave is family run and non-commercial, and fits in with the feel of the camino. It's on the road between Jimera de Libar and Benaojan.

I'm not sure if it's in the Johnny Walker guide, but two days from now if you reach the section of trail just beyond the station at Jimera de Libar and the trail is flooded by spring runoff, there is an easy work-around that some locals told us about. See the map and description of the detour at the bottom of this page in our journal.

I'm looking forward to seeing your report on your walk through the fantastic canyon tomorrow. Thanks for the write-ups!

Pileta Cave
IMG_4127.JPG
 
Last edited:
Really enjoying the posts, I hope you can find the time to continue with them. Myself and my partner Mady are planning to walk a slightly shorter version of the VdlP in September. We will likely start from Villafranca de los Barros due to time constraints. I wish you well and look forward to following your journey. Kind Regards Pete
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
Now THAT.....was a walk! Probably one of the toughest in my limited walking experience.
Out at 7.30am and away, it wasn’t long before I was going up, and up, and up.
The guide was once again my friend. Spot on. The warning that the first 4km would feel like a lot more where absolutely correct.
I took a few stops to marvel at my surroundings/have a rest and catch my breath.
A highlight was the sound in the wings of the four Griffon Vultures that flew fairly low overhead.
Luckily for me the weather was good, a bit of cloud cover but no rain.
The tunnel, the steps, the narrow paths, the long descents. Well worth 4.5 hours of my life.
I can’t say that I enjoyed it all at the time but sitting here typing this I feel pretty good about the day. Albeit a day slightly different from any I experienced on the French route!

Carrying some food and plenty of water is a must as there was a distinct lack of a welcoming little hut selling cold drinks and snacks.

Sarah said that the train was on time, comfortable and inexpensive. Sounds ideal.....8D451DA2-067F-45DE-83AE-347B14756E1C.jpeg8D451DA2-067F-45DE-83AE-347B14756E1C.jpeg52127D21-7E53-463A-89EF-4E078DAC5E8A.jpegE5FAF199-6C5F-414F-B82C-2BC0E28431D9.jpeg443572E8-E984-4F72-8037-45FD0D6CA438.jpegB083E4E0-2CC1-408B-B80B-89E8912A8ADB.jpeg3F841C86-8128-4EA1-BF3C-F91BDA6763E5.jpeg2ECBF6CD-81EA-4266-8894-CC86BED34F70.jpeg
 
As I didn’t actually type where from and too above.

Colmenar to Estacion Cortes de la Frontera/Cañada Real del Real Tesoro.

We found accommodation using our faithful travel friend Booking.com
Finca La Rana Verde for €55. It’s just through town about 150 meters off of the Camino.
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Day 6. From Cañada del Real Tesoro ( that’s just the one Real not two as in my post above) to Ronda.
The guide suggests a stop over at Benaoján and break it into two days but I decided to crack on and go for it.
I must admit the last couple of hours were an extra challenge. Either steeply up or steeply down.
Sarah caught the train and as that was due to leave at 7.30 we left out accommodation in the dark at 7am. Head torch blazing.
The first 9km were very pleasant and easy going with stunning scenery, once it was daylight of course, and they went by in a couple of hours.
Yellow arrows were few and far between today but other signs and markings as listed in the guide proved useful.
At some point the track became a path. Grazing cattle watching warily as I passed by. The railway line a constant companion, as was the river.
I spotted a couple of deer running in the distance and some herons looking for their breakfast.
From Jimera de Libar to Benaojàn was a narrow path again following the river and railway. Undulating but nothing to strenuous. Benaoján seemed to appear sooner than I had anticipated, so I wandered in by until the first climb where I ate some of my picnic.
Setting off from my comfortable rock I soon worked out why the guide splits this in to two.
See my admission and about. Up up up down down up up up......you get the picture.

So Ronda. This may upset some and yet others will say why not. The Parador. The bed is huge, comfortable and smells as fresh as a daisy.
We plan to have two night here, there’s a laundromat in town for one.

The other side of our story. Sarah has posted her boots back to the UK. No more walking. However, a new bicycle had been purchased. A few accessories to carry the luggage and she’s back in the adventure. Not that she had ever left it, finding her way on the train and seeing the world from that window, albeit briefly, and finding the lay of the land in the next town before I arrived.

So that’s it until Sunday, when we will stroll and roll on to Setenil de Bodegas. I’ll let you know how we get on.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
I can’t figure out where you are walking? You say the VDLP but none of the names are familiar.

Sorry about that. When I started writing this it seemed a good idea to put it in the VdlP section as we’re on the way to Seville and plan to carry on north.
However, a moderator has moved me to the correct location.

Obviously google maps are you friend to find the places we are passing through and staying at.
Apologies again.
 
Sorry about that. When I started writing this it seemed a good idea to put it in the VdlP section as we’re on the way to Seville and plan to carry on north.
However, a moderator has moved me to the correct location.

Obviously google maps are you friend to find the places we are passing through and staying at.
Apologies again.

Hope that was ok, and I am hoping that we will soon get a ”live from the Camino” prefix for this sub-forum so I can add it to your post. When you get to Sevilla, @OnHellas, it would be great if you would start a new thread in the Vdlp sub-forum. I will take care of linking the two threads so people will be able to follow you without a hiccup and so in the future people can find the two pieces without any trouble. These pictures are LOVELY. I now have about five short caminos on my list, and am glad I don’t have to decide which one to walk this year. Thanks so much for your wonderful posts.

Hope your Sarah is able to continue on, the bike sounds like it is a good idea. I haven’t walked this part of the Vdlp, but the part from Sevilla onwards is one of the best for bikes, IMO.

Buen camino, Laurie

And p.s. The parador in Ronda sounds like a great idea — do they have pilgrim rates? :p Enjoy that time in Ronda, what a beautiful city.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Back in my boots today for day 7. A nice day in Ronda yesterday doing just about nothing.
Rested, bicycle purchased and ready to go..... but Sarah must have eaten something a bit dodgy. If you know what I mean!

I feel a bit bad in saying that come 8.45 this morning I selfishly set of for the next stop. Partly because we’d booked somewhere to stay during said day off, but also because I wanted to be walking. Heading north. Getting another day done whilst the momentum was there.

Luckily Sarah perked up enough to checkout at midday and peddle after me.

The walk from Ronda was downhill for a long time. Streets turned in to paths into rocky descents into tracks and back into roads.
A smelly rotten looking creek had one stone half way across which was to far to reach for a “test” so I went for it.
All was well although my payback was to miss a turning a bit later on and walk further than the (always excellent) guide suggested on the road. Up and up I went until I saw a friendly face.....a yellow arrow actually but a quick double check with the guide and I was back on track.
At the top of the climb the way levelled out and was very pleasurable for the next 6km or so until I got to a small village. Luckily the unmarked shop was unlocked so that the owners husband and his mate cold have a cold beer. I lucked in for a 90 cent full fat Coke. Nice.

Another 3km and I was at Setenil de las Bodegas. I messaged Sarah my location and waited. She rolled in sometime later and we had lunch. From our experience the Venta Mirabueno is very good. Excellent pork and a top notch flan. mmmmmFlan.

We found Casa Primavera on Booking.com. It is an immaculate apartment for just €40 including breakfast. The lady is very nice. Garage parking has been offered for the bike so all good there too.

Not many pictures today. Just one actually.
A big rock.73788FEF-B0D6-4A2F-A116-5CCFDB7B142F.jpeg
 
A shorter day for day 8. Setenil de las Bodegas to Olvera. 14km with only a bit of difficult navigation in Torre Alháquime. But I found the church at the top before heading straight back down again, of course.
The hardest part of the walk was as I left Torre Alháquime where there is a kilometre of a tough climb. Luckily there is a welcome bench halfway up although the bar promised in the guide was closed.
The guide, again spot on although yellow arrows were sparse again.

Here in Olvera we are in another apartment found on booking.com.
Apartamento en Olvera con Terraza I. Again, very clean with a lovely host for €45.

Big views.
Olvera in the distance.
The church in Torre Alháquime.FEEB5066-0FB7-4A5F-BA39-BBBA2D8770CD.jpeg0E50DBBF-353D-4D73-B8F9-F5E19BAC0A52.jpegD2123F69-DE22-4494-AD8C-8F5E2BBF9EA6.jpeg
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Sarah had a good run today on her bike.....especially on the downhill bits she tells me. She left over an hour and a half after me but only took 9km to catch up.

And I found this today laying at the side of the road, DE12412A-B36F-4F3D-BBEF-7F3FA9E0D20D.jpegso it seemed like the thing to do to pick it up and cable tie it to my rucksack.
 
What a day for a walk and what a walk for a day. Olvera to Coripe, 24.5km according to the guide.
All but 3km of it on an old railway line. A railway that was built but never saw a train. The cuttings and tunnels, the bridges and viaducts.
It felt like a ‘Camino’ day from when I walked the French Route. No rock steps to climb, no steep descents. It was a bit like a stage on the Meseta but closed in, if that makes sense. The Griffon Vultures were still in attendance though, just to keep my mind on the job in hand.
Sarah set off about an hour and a half after me in her bike and it didn’t take long for her to catch me up.
We then rolled and strolled together until the 16km mark where cold drinks were available, and purchased.

Tonight we are in Coripe, another small and charming village. Booking.com was agin the hunting ground and for €40 we found Casa Rural Coripe. It’s another apartment, it’s in town and it’s very clean.

That’s day 9 done.
F997937E-D1F5-4B04-937D-38E2AD3B41CA.jpeg2F06B5A9-6EB9-4777-B132-DB544D9565A3.jpeg36A8134B-5F28-43C9-B213-59075C41AEB7.jpeg8A3F6648-6DD4-4A8A-AEB1-8C868BD1F0D7.jpegC26E5088-DBFC-477F-93AA-A00C7E2C5A5C.jpeg
 
Hi OnHellas.

Love your reports and pics that make me feel like giving Serrana a try soon.
Wondering if you are coming across other walkers on your way.
I mean locals or day hikers.

Thanks for keeping us posted.
Wish you well.
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
We saw a few cyclists today and I saw a few locals out walking early on. No backpacks though.
I haven’t met anyone else doing the Via Serrrana.
 
This forum is messing with my mind. I just got very bummed reading the “to be or not to be” thread, with post after post of sad despairing peregrino canceling a long-awaited camino. I was definitely feeling a bit despondent. And then I scroll down to see these joyous posts. You are so lucky @OnHellas, and I feel much better being able to read these posts to offset the unpleasant current reality. It is good to know that some are enjoying the camino now, far from this awful reality. It makes me realize that many of us who can’t make it now will be back as soon as we can, to experience for ourselves some of that joy you are describing!
 
The three mistakes today, in order, were....

Setting off a bit later than planned.
Hoping that it was going to be a railway type day.
Navigation at the end.

The apartment that we stayed in last night was really nice and the included breakfast was to be had at a bar 300 meters back the way we’d come in to town last night. Add to that a shorter day and I fell for it.
It was probably 08.40 before I set off. Within a kilometre yesterday’s dream of fairly flat terrain to walk on was a memory.
So, steep hills, later to start, sun, no breeze equals puffing and panting and getting sweaty.
However, the views were as promised in the guide. Beautiful. A banana taken on the hoof helped me get up the hills. The guide helped navigate the fields and junction as the arrows were sometimes not there.
At about 13km a picnic bench with my name on it beckoned next to have a rest and my second banana. Nice.
I felt better for the rest and stride of happily to meet Sarah who had called to say that she was in Montellano waiting at a bar cafe type of place near our hotel and right on the route. I’d see her as I walked up the hill.

Mistake number 3 now comes in. I missed an arrow and ended up adding about 800 meters to the day. Never mind, I found the arrows and Via Serrana plaques and so I found Sarah. Waiting patiently for me. An ice cold coke was soon dispatched.

So. We are at the Hotel Analou. Very nice and clean and good value at €47. Breakfast not included.

174km walked, 66km to Seville.
8AC361C6-7E8B-437E-9FE2-7856E80F191B.jpeg265093A0-46A4-4370-8269-3CB87FA7D301.jpeg
 
Very light, comfortable and compressible poncho. Specially designed for protection against water for any activity.

Our Atmospheric H30 poncho offers lightness and waterproofness. Easily compressible and made with our Waterproof fabric, its heat-sealed interior seams guarantee its waterproofness. Includes carrying bag.

€60,-
Indeed, the winter season is for the most southern Caminos:

vía serrana
camino del estrecho
camino del sur from Huelva
Mozárabe from Málaga

usually pleasant weather, green, lush landscapes, solitude... there is a season for every Camino!
 
Another short day following the recommendations of the trusty guide. Montellano to El Coronil, 13km.
No need to rush off so we had breakfast together and at about 8.30 I set off.
The walk was nice for the first 4.5km, wandering on good tracks through olive groves before popping out on the main road at a petrol station.
The only tricky bit was crossing a stream with a broken bridge, I stayed dry and managed not to fall over so all good.
A quick cold drink at the petrol station was followed by 4.5km along the main road. Not overly enjoyable but part of the route and not to busy.
The last bit was across some fields, back across the main road and into town. All done by 11.30. Nice.
The church in town is a bit different from many.
Tonight we are booked to stay at the Hostal Don Juan. €50 a double or twin room.
1D33E872-EEC3-4BEB-B641-B4E33B418DC7.jpeg965EA84B-D080-483B-BECC-EC3D9D3E9EA4.jpeg9F6B5A6E-B318-42B5-9E02-9137ABEF117E.jpeg
 
El Coronil to Utrera. 19 and a bit KM. It has to be said that although most of the route was through rolling farmland, it was very pleasant. A nice temperature meant that my fleece was not required for long.
The sun took a long time to show itself but that was a good thing.
In Molares, where I saw the first plaque for the Via Augusta from Cádiz, I 5E32C5AC-9789-49E4-BFFB-93E72E1EC126.jpeg762D9CA9-2AF2-45A9-A1F7-E962EF570559.jpegD72102B9-4133-4C91-AB59-68FA72A92335.jpegwaited for a short time at a cafe for Sarah to catch up on the bike. A ham roll and a red tea dispatched we headed of together for the last 6.5km in to Utrera.
And that’s where we are now. In the Plaza de la Concepcion having a cold drink before heading to our hotel which for tonight is the Hotel Veracruz for €74 as per the guide, which it goes without saying was excellent again today.
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Coronavirus:- So what to do. We took the decision last night to go as far as Seville and then call time on this adventure.
We may head back to the UK or to a family house in Portugal that is available.
We can then sit tight for a bit and, with the rest of the world, see what happens.

I received the email from Casa Ivar and the Moderators this morning re the current situation/travel etc and think that they have it about right.

Another two days to Seville, I’ll keep posting to let you know how we get on.
For what it’s worth, here in Utrera it looks like business as usual.....
 
Didn’t realize Serrana merged with Augusta at Coronil.
Indeed, at that time I didn’t even have the slightest knowledge of a trail heading from La Linea north to Sevilla.
Best wishes, and most significant fact these days, take care of yourself.
 
Today will be our last day on The Camino.....for now. I’m sure that we’ll be back.
A decent and early breakfast at the hotel saw us out the door by 7.35am and Utrera was soon behind us.
An easy track to follow once out of town took us the first 8.5km.
The guide then said that fly tipping on the suggested route next to the railway was bad and maybe the small road in to town may be better.
A couple of kilometres along the road two cyclists stopped and asked where we were going and if we were entering Dos Hermanas by the road that we were on to take care. The first few houses had some dangerous people there.
You’ll be pleased to know that I’m typing this from a hotel room and not an A&E department in a Spanish hospital.

Our adventure in town after running the gauntlet of the bad guys took us first to a bicycle shop to get some tools to remove peddles and loosen handlebars. We also wanted a box for the bike for the flight home. He called the post office to see if they had one and we were in luck.
A km later, box and sticky tape purchased we set of for the Hotel Leflet Valme. On the route as per the guide and €50.
1.3km of carrying my backpack and the box was fun and not something that I could have guessed would have been part of our Camino.

A taxi will take us to the airport and all being well we’ll be back in Blighty by the evening.
Our exit plan is working....so far anyway.BDFF178D-9E00-412F-B03A-6E54C645B189.jpeg
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
I would like to end by saying that the guide that I followed is not only excellent but also invaluable. I believe that completing the Via Serrana would be hard enough, I didn’t manage that after all, but relying on the yellow arrows would be nigh on impossible.
So, thank you Johnny Walker. You are are star!

We are both disappointed to have to stop as we were both feeling good about the adventure with our different modes of transport. But, it has been a challenge, an adventure and one that I’m glad we came to have a go at. It’s certainly been a whole different ball game to the French of Portuguese Routes that I/we have experienced before.

Thanks also for those of you that have read my ramblings on here, hopefully some of it has come across as humour and not just the moanings of another middle aged man?

The Via de la Plata will have to wait for another time.
 
Int
Coronavirus:- So what to do. We took the decision last night to go as far as Seville and then call time on this adventure.
We may head back to the UK or to a family house in Portugal that is available.
We can then sit tight for a bit and, with the rest of the world, see what happens.

I received the email from Casa Ivar and the Moderators this morning re the current situation/travel etc and think that they have it about right.

Another two days to Seville, I’ll keep posting to let you know how we get on.
For what it’s worth, here in Utrera it looks like business as usual.....
[/QUOTE

Interesting, as it is certainly NOT business as usual anywhere else in the world! My understanding was Spain closed its borders some time ago. People in Canada travelling anywhere in the world were told to come home immediately because if they didn’t they would be stranded—there would be no one coming for them. Elsewhere in Spain people are not allowed to leave their own homes, and while we are weeks behind Spain most people here have gone on voluntary lockdown with only essential services open. All restaurants, bars, hair salons, spas, schools, and on and on—all closed. I am surprised that Spain which has been in terrible trouble and closed its borders weeks ago still allows pilgrims, or that they are allowed to stay/eat anywhere.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
For those of you wondering or interested in the Via Serrana, here is a link to the Johnny Walker guide. Which as you have probably worked out from my reports gets a 10 out of 10 from me.


Hi, just read through your great comments and experiences which I found very interesting and useful as I live in La Linea and I'm hoping to do this walk and VdlP in 2022. For this year de Camino del Norte awaits!
So than you very much, it is very appreciated and hope you get to continue your journey on La Plata very soon.
All the best.
Sergio
 
So nearly 3 years after having to abandon our Via Serrana adventure just 10 miles short of Seville and the VdlP we’re off again.

On Monday week, the 20th of February we are booked to fly to Seville. We being me my boots and my backpack along with the wonderful Sarah and her bicycle. The one she purchased in Ronda as per my posts above.

The plan:-
20th fly/taxi to Dos Hermanas.
21st walk/cycle to Seville.
22nd start the VdlP and see if we can make it to Santiago and maybe to Finistere.

I’ll try and update as we go with some photos too.

As it is today…packing list sorted and excitement/apprehension present.
 
Our flight from Gatwick to Seville on Monday went without a hitch including Sarah’s bicycle arriving with us and intact.
A friendly taxi driver with a slightly larger car (estate/stationwagon) was located at the airport and €60 later we were in Dos Hermanas.
We weren’t able to book the hotel that we had stayed in on our abandoned trip but one just a few hundred meters further along the Via Serrana. And yes, I did walk back to the other hotel…as sad as that may be.
Mare Hotel for €60.75 + €14 for breakfast for the pair of us. Good, clean and value for money.

Tuesday saw a 10am departure after the above mentioned breakfast.
Whilst it was good to be underway the walk wasn’t the most interesting and navigation was ‘tricky’ in a couple of spots slowing us down.

We arrived in Seville at 2pm and the Triana Backpackers Hostel was our home for the night. €38 for two people including breakfast. Twin room shared bathroom. It was OK and clean.

Via Serrana completed.

I would thoroughly recommend this walk. Especially late or early in the year.

The Via de la Plata begins…..
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
Thanks for the thumbs up. As I seem to be under the ‘Live from the Camino’ heading I’d better let you know how it’s going.

Leaving the backpackers hostel after the offered breakfast and dutifully washing up our cups and plates as per the house rules brought a feeling of slight apprehension.
Here we go…..navigating out of Seville was straight forward enough and we only carried the bicycle up one flight of steps.
I’ve decided that I definitely prefer walking out of a city than walking in to one.
The path was well marked and soon enough we were at Cafe di Roma in Santiponce. What an amazing welcome from the waiter, lots of encouragement and our ‘second breakfast’ was super.
So on we went. Sarah went ahead on the bike now that we were free from city streets.
She waited for me at the ‘can you can’t you’ river crossing.
We could as the is a steel girder spanning the water. A steady shuffle was the way.
Off she went again.
By the time I turned up in Guillena she had already checked in at The Hostal Frances. €60 got us a twin room, a more than adequate dinner and breakfast in the morning. Bargain we think and I would recommend it.
 
Thursday the 23rd and we were off in good time for the stage to Castilblanco.
At the river we bumped in to another couple from the UK so I ended up walking with them the whole way.
Sarah went ahead on the bike and again got checked in to our room at Hotel Castillo Blanco nice and early. A double room was €40. I don’t know if breakfast was included or not as it didn’t start until 08.30 and we wanted to head out at 8.00 as today’s route was 29km.
Cafe Macarena in town provided breakfast and sandwiches were purchased for the day ahead as we would not be passing any bars, shops or place to get sustenance. Oh, yes, I had that song in my head for a good/bad part of the day. The first 16.5km were in the road but the remainder was through a natural park which was beautiful, the best part of the walk so far, apart from the climb at the end ……. (Enter choice of untypeable word here). I had to stop a couple of time to rest for a moment but the views from the top back across the park and forward to to the town was just about reward enough.
So here we are. Enjoying a cold one at Casa Concha. €35 for a double room. I’ll let you know what dinner is like next time.

I’ll try and add some pictures too.
 
Good to be back on the arrows!
 

Attachments

  • 091A7B38-0E7C-4CC5-9FC2-01FF46D569AB.jpeg
    091A7B38-0E7C-4CC5-9FC2-01FF46D569AB.jpeg
    5.2 MB · Views: 17
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
Paths, encouragement and that song.
 

Attachments

  • 67E7BC78-D618-4A2E-9953-DD202AB1D124.jpeg
    67E7BC78-D618-4A2E-9953-DD202AB1D124.jpeg
    6.6 MB · Views: 13
  • E7636301-DC60-4CF0-B35A-19630FDAD5A7.jpeg
    E7636301-DC60-4CF0-B35A-19630FDAD5A7.jpeg
    6.3 MB · Views: 15
  • 0BEA5EFB-8A1E-41BE-B86D-048046E7088C.jpeg
    0BEA5EFB-8A1E-41BE-B86D-048046E7088C.jpeg
    2 MB · Views: 14
70 caterpillars in a chain.
 

Attachments

  • C2528C9B-AD06-4524-A5A9-F735E75FF6B3.jpeg
    C2528C9B-AD06-4524-A5A9-F735E75FF6B3.jpeg
    4.8 MB · Views: 10
  • AF141270-7EAB-4530-8B41-81E7C91B68C7.jpeg
    AF141270-7EAB-4530-8B41-81E7C91B68C7.jpeg
    6.5 MB · Views: 10
  • F3E83357-671F-492F-8897-477A189FAE14.jpeg
    F3E83357-671F-492F-8897-477A189FAE14.jpeg
    4.9 MB · Views: 8
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
As a quick addition. Sarah found pushing her bike up the steep climb at the end of todays stage in to Almaden de La Plata pretty tough.
Made worse by slipping and falling on to her knees.
The grazes will heal but the brand new, only worn for three hours leggings have holes.
She recommends the Road option although the park was stunning.
 
New Original Camino Gear Designed Especially with The Modern Peregrino In Mind!
Last nights dinner at Casa Concha was OK. I probably didn’t make the best choices but at less than €20 for the pair of us we can’t complain.

With just under 14km to get to El Real de La Jara today we stayed in bed a little longer. The beds were very comfortable and the covers and room heater kept us toasty warm.

We found breakfast and at 9.15 I headed out of town. The days walk was superb. A bit hilly but so peaceful with just one other pilgrim encountered during the day.

Sarah chose the tarmac option for the bike which I reckon was the right choice. She arrived in town first by an hour and a half or so and found as lodging at La Molina. A private house/Albergue. €12 per person. Clothes washed for a further €5 and breakfast only €3 each.

The only down side at this time of year is that there isn’t any heating in the room. I know, it’s not meant to be a luxury tour….although Zafra is only a few days away and there’s a Parador there….and I have my Amigos card with me….
 
The bull ring on the exit of town.
Beautiful walking.
An honesty trough. (Sorry, my humour, like an honesty box on some of the UK walks. Well I thought it was funny 🫣).
 

Attachments

  • 8F14246C-DF3D-4FF9-8BE1-05A87422CBE0.jpeg
    8F14246C-DF3D-4FF9-8BE1-05A87422CBE0.jpeg
    4.9 MB · Views: 10
  • 4497E1A8-298E-4A60-9B89-3A5C97181B98.jpeg
    4497E1A8-298E-4A60-9B89-3A5C97181B98.jpeg
    6.5 MB · Views: 8
  • CCAB6D74-5D2C-4DF9-B9CE-78D0BA571816.jpeg
    CCAB6D74-5D2C-4DF9-B9CE-78D0BA571816.jpeg
    5.2 MB · Views: 7
Yesterday morning and we were off again at 08.20 after our jam on roast and tea/coffee depending on preferences. Again, I can’t speak highly enough of Alojamientos Molina.
The first 12km or so was throughly rolling countryside with pigs and cows in fields to either side.
That distance brings the path to a major road and a Tortilla & tea stop at the large service area.
The rest of the walk in to Monesterio was easy enough with a short climb at the end bringing me to the ‘Jamon’ sculpture on the outskirts of town.
Hostal El Pilar was our chosen accommodation for the night. Once the heating was turned on the room warmed up nicely and we had a comfortable night in a clean twin, en-suite room for €50.
Sunday meant eating options were a bit sparse, it seemed so to us anyway, so we ended up in a nice restaurant called Los Temlarios. Now there’s nothing wrong with a good pilgrim menu….but sometimes going up a notch or two is very enjoyable. This was one of those times.

Up and away this morning (Monday 27th) at 08.30 with breakfast at a bar called Joker (try somewhere else) for €5.50. Tostada, Jamon & tea.
Leaving town the walk stayed away from population until I reached Fuente de Cantos some 20km later. Beautiful is a good word for todays walk/route.
Sarah was a bit later away and caught me at the 8km mark. We stayed together until about 5km to go and with the bright lights of town calling….sorry, with it being downhill in to town, off she went.

Tonight we are in an apartment, El Zaguan de La Plata. Heating, washing machine, cooking facilities, fridge etc etc.
More money at €60 but eating in and getting washing sorted kind of offsets it a bit….that’s what we’ve told ourselves anyway.
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
Big shell+
Broken castle+
Big ham=

Great day out!
 

Attachments

  • 5380FD82-031A-4A71-85EA-0F6781959266.jpeg
    5380FD82-031A-4A71-85EA-0F6781959266.jpeg
    2.4 MB · Views: 6
  • 11B31C49-7ECE-4423-8249-8A4909FF0266.jpeg
    11B31C49-7ECE-4423-8249-8A4909FF0266.jpeg
    6 MB · Views: 5
  • C6FD6FC2-75F9-4B8D-9EAE-623012B4FA0C.jpeg
    C6FD6FC2-75F9-4B8D-9EAE-623012B4FA0C.jpeg
    3.6 MB · Views: 5
27th, today.

Frosty start.
Unwell animal.
There she goes.
 

Attachments

  • 74683AE0-F5FB-4B62-989B-BC3F03D79710.jpeg
    74683AE0-F5FB-4B62-989B-BC3F03D79710.jpeg
    5.2 MB · Views: 7
  • D623A382-1A6F-403D-87D0-71441ED8BF51.jpeg
    D623A382-1A6F-403D-87D0-71441ED8BF51.jpeg
    7.5 MB · Views: 8
  • EB5514FD-703D-4690-A19C-A92445AD1F75.jpeg
    EB5514FD-703D-4690-A19C-A92445AD1F75.jpeg
    5.5 MB · Views: 8
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
So you pushed a bike across that steel girder? I can’t imagine having enough balance to get my body across while walking, much less pushing a bike.

Buen camino, great to see you’re back!
I know what you mean, Sarah pushed it backwards (the bike, not her) on her own.
I’m not sure I would have relished that challenge either to be honest.
 
Oh, and we’re glad to be back. Thank you.
 
Fuente de Cantos to Zafra. 24km of easy walking, apart from a not to pleasant ‘stream’ to cross.
I was away at just before 8am and cold it was. As it’s been most mornings. The locals must be used to our crowd wearing shorts as nobody seemed to notice.
I walked straight through the first village but by the time I’d made dry passage across the stream I was ready for a bit of a rest and some food. There is a shelter at around 15km so that was the spot.
Shame about the rubbish and??!! Left by previous visitors.
It was at this point that a later starting Sarah turned up on her bike. Excellent, second breakfast together.
We stayed together until Pueblo Sanchez Perez where we had a drink and then she was off to Zafra……with my Amigos de Parador card…..sorry to anyone that thinks that it should be Albergues all the way, it’s our Camino and all that 😂😂

So, €80 for the room with the Amigos discount and a ‘free’ drink each.
Plenty of food choices around and ours didn’t disappoint. Our washing was nearly dry when we got back too. Result.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
With the Parador of Zafra slightly harder to leave than some other places, it was a few minutes after 9 o’clock that I set off for Villafranca de los Barros.
Slightly later meant slightly warmer and with quite a climb after leaving town my gloves were soon taken off and my jacket unzipped.
A small town some 4km is was too soon to stop although I did stop just long enough to take a photo of the impressive looking church.
Horses, olive trees, cattle, farm workers, muddy patches, rough paths, a railway to cross. All of those were along the way and just one other pilgrim, from Germany.
Another blue sky day, my only complaint would be that another couple of degrees would have made it jacket off weather, but hey, that’s just being extra picky.
The Hotel Diana is where we will rest our heads tonight. €45 for a spotless twin, en-suite room. €11 per person for a really tasty and filling Menu del Dia.
Excellent value all round.
Clothes washed in the sink, this forum update and it’s another day done. Another great day.
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
Tower on the outskirts of Zafra.
Another impressive church.
 

Attachments

  • 19205988-0CCD-42F1-95CF-8DC4280DCA5B.jpeg
    19205988-0CCD-42F1-95CF-8DC4280DCA5B.jpeg
    2.6 MB · Views: 1
  • 810DAE5B-CCBB-4A8A-90D2-0ACE21056D85.jpeg
    810DAE5B-CCBB-4A8A-90D2-0ACE21056D85.jpeg
    3.6 MB · Views: 4
The Hotel Diana was very nice and we would recommend. Todays accommodation however not so much.
The walk of some 28km went without a hitch and I saw three other pilgrims, two that I’d seen before and another chap.
That’s probably only 10 different people in total, maybe 12.
Wide flat easy paths to follow helped the distance go by but it wasn’t the most inspiring landscape….unless you like vineyards of course.
Torremejia looks a bit sorry for itself and the dining options this afternoon have been sparse.
Hostal Milenium is not the best place we’ve ever stayed. Knowing what I know now I’d probably give the Albergue a go.
Our room has what you need but it is very tired, not the cleanest and smells of cigarette smoke.
Just the one night sir? You bet!

Tomorrow’s plan is to go straight through Merida to the Albergue at Aljucen.
I’ll let you know how it goes.
 
Last edited:
Vineyards.
Wide easy paths.
 

Attachments

  • FB45275F-E588-4CB7-9BA5-4CFCE3C87B15.jpeg
    FB45275F-E588-4CB7-9BA5-4CFCE3C87B15.jpeg
    4.5 MB · Views: 3
  • 1A634C85-BE91-4570-A5E6-B4D80B830878.jpeg
    1A634C85-BE91-4570-A5E6-B4D80B830878.jpeg
    5.8 MB · Views: 5
Join our full-service guided tour and let us convert you into a Pampered Pilgrim!
Today was definitely a day of two halves. I set off at 07.45 when the temperature was just below freezing.
Leaving Torremejia on the ever present N630 it wasn’t long before I picked up the track that ran alongside it and came to a huge dirty looking puddle.
I spotted another pilgrim, one I’d walked with yesterday, bushwhacking and trying to find away around. I followed her and soon enough we were in and out of a semi dry Arroyo and underway again.
I did slip going down the bank ending up clean, but sat on my backside in the grass.
Further on there was a railway to cross and at around the 8km stage Sarah caught me up on her bike and we stayed together all the way in to Merida. After some bread and Jamon she was off. By the time I’d climbed out of the city, walked around the lake and stopped for a rest with 7km to go she was checking in to the Albergue San Andres in Aljucen.
An hour and a half later after walking through some stunning country, and forgetting to take photos of the impressive black cattle, I arrived too.
A great day out and another 32km closer to Santiago.

The Albergue is run by the same people that run the bar/cafe. They’re very friendly and the place seems nice. €30 for a private, twin room.
€10 for two courses in the cafe. Drinks and desert extra. Great value.
Breakfast at the cafe from 7am.

There was a sign saying that the cafe is closed on Tuesdays.
 
Sunrise over Torremejia.
Merida.
The lake.
Beautiful country.
 

Attachments

  • BAC6F227-B77A-491F-B098-9203C469FE7B.jpeg
    BAC6F227-B77A-491F-B098-9203C469FE7B.jpeg
    3.1 MB · Views: 3
  • 0863F11A-5438-4431-A294-6508783CBB18.jpeg
    0863F11A-5438-4431-A294-6508783CBB18.jpeg
    2.8 MB · Views: 3
  • A28FCEED-E5F0-44A2-B180-A95EE908693F.jpeg
    A28FCEED-E5F0-44A2-B180-A95EE908693F.jpeg
    4 MB · Views: 3
  • 2FAFC706-75AA-4A22-9803-2FDD6F9657C5.jpeg
    2FAFC706-75AA-4A22-9803-2FDD6F9657C5.jpeg
    6.3 MB · Views: 4
Another Camino day completed. Destination reached nice and early. Washing done, a nice hot shower and a supermarket ‘picnic’ lunch. (Sarah was ahead as usual so went to the Dia Supermarket to stock up.

A fantastic days walk albeit all (mostly) uphill. I saw some black bulls again and remembered to take a photo of one….even though they were all in open ground. NO FENCES BETWEEN ME AND THEM!! It did concentrate the mind and my fellow Peregrina that I was walking with at that point.

Then there was the local hunt…lots of gunfire. The may have been hunting wild boar or deer according to the last that checked us in at Casa Grande in Alcuescar.

An apartment with kitchen and everything that we need bar a comfortable chair…hopefully the bed is…comfortable that is.

€60 for the night.
Food from Dia for lunch/dinner/breakfast/lunch €30.
 
New Original Camino Gear Designed Especially with The Modern Peregrino In Mind!
Yikes!
Stepping stones over a stream.
Outside the breakfast spot before leaving Aljucen.
 

Attachments

  • ED7A3616-4371-4EFF-859C-ACAB9D2B2E79.jpeg
    ED7A3616-4371-4EFF-859C-ACAB9D2B2E79.jpeg
    3.4 MB · Views: 3
  • C92B1FBC-BD55-4EA9-884F-D107B13A5922.jpeg
    C92B1FBC-BD55-4EA9-884F-D107B13A5922.jpeg
    7.1 MB · Views: 6
  • 3BE47A14-BCD3-433F-9305-F22B4D8CFE5F.jpeg
    3BE47A14-BCD3-433F-9305-F22B4D8CFE5F.jpeg
    3.8 MB · Views: 9
The good news from today is that the bad news wasn’t as bad as it could have been.
It rained. I set of in the dark this morning at 7 o’clock. It was about 700 meters from our accommodation back to The Way and my torch was needed to see the yellow arrows.
Todays stage to Valdesalor wasn’t quite as pretty as the previous couple but highlights include bridges and woodpeckers.
I stopped at a bench at the 12km mark for a rest and a bite to eat and that’s when Sarah came along on her bike.
Due to the potential for rain she left me behind and made it to todays chosen overnight stop, Posada de la Plata, before the rain came.
I on the other hand had to concede to it and put on my waterproof jacket and rucksack cover.
All in all though, a good day. Including a walk across a disused airfield.

Posada de la Plata is very clean, warm and comfortable and we paid €40 for a double en-suite room via Booking.com
 
Nice bridge.
Bye then.
Another nice bridge.
Abandoned runway.
 

Attachments

  • B1E292B4-C99F-4997-9D89-1DC236E924D6.jpeg
    B1E292B4-C99F-4997-9D89-1DC236E924D6.jpeg
    3.2 MB · Views: 5
  • AFCE8844-44C2-4F3D-9AC0-1D7DF776FC26.jpeg
    AFCE8844-44C2-4F3D-9AC0-1D7DF776FC26.jpeg
    1.2 MB · Views: 5
  • 6BE79EA2-1E20-434D-96FD-068ABB76B9E8.jpeg
    6BE79EA2-1E20-434D-96FD-068ABB76B9E8.jpeg
    2.2 MB · Views: 4
  • 35AEC979-3ECC-4235-9A39-2464DE1E581A.jpeg
    35AEC979-3ECC-4235-9A39-2464DE1E581A.jpeg
    4.8 MB · Views: 5
Join our full-service guided tour and let us convert you into a Pampered Pilgrim!
Back to what seems to be my regular start time of 8 o’clock this morning. Sarah left just after 9.
After a couple of KM’s it was fairly foggy so the views may or may not of been good.I passed another pilgrim that I’d seen a couple of days ago and pleasantries were exchanged.
Just before entering Caceres I had to navigate my way through a flock of sheep that were being moved from somewhere to somewhere else. The shepherd gave a cheery Buen Camino and his dog wasn’t interested in me at all. Pilgrims eh, loads of ‘em!

I stopped in the Plaza Mayor in Caceres and Sarah arrived 15 minutes later after a diversion to a bicycle shop to buy some chain oil.
Some toast and ham and a hot drink did the job and we walked together to the edge of town where off she went again. It was a couple of hours later that I arrived at The Albergue Via de la Plata where we’d reserved an en-suite room. The chap running the place looks a bit dour but is very friendly and helpful.

The room seems really good so far although we haven’t tried the shower as yet so……

€60 booked through Booking.com.

After we’ve completed our daily chores we’ll head out for some food and also some supplies for tomorrow as we have a 32km ish day to Cañaveral.
 
Trees looming in the fog.
Looking back to Cáceres.
 

Attachments

  • F6309E02-1B90-4D2E-A862-6BB13D4B5EE5.jpeg
    F6309E02-1B90-4D2E-A862-6BB13D4B5EE5.jpeg
    4 MB · Views: 2
  • 4406E601-5A8E-4064-BAFB-C29299C04703.jpeg
    4406E601-5A8E-4064-BAFB-C29299C04703.jpeg
    4.7 MB · Views: 3
Back to what seems to be my regular start time of 8 o’clock this morning. Sarah left just after 9.
After a couple of KM’s it was fairly foggy so the views may or may not of been good.I passed another pilgrim that I’d seen a couple of days ago and pleasantries were exchanged.
Just before entering Caceres I had to navigate my way through a flock of sheep that were being moved from somewhere to somewhere else. The shepherd gave a cheery Buen Camino and his dog wasn’t interested in me at all. Pilgrims eh, loads of ‘em!

I stopped in the Plaza Mayor in Caceres and Sarah arrived 15 minutes later after a diversion to a bicycle shop to buy some chain oil.
Some toast and ham and a hot drink did the job and we walked together to the edge of town where off she went again. It was a couple of hours later that I arrived at The Albergue Via de la Plata where we’d reserved an en-suite room. The chap running the place looks a bit dour but is very friendly and helpful.

The room seems really good so far although we haven’t tried the shower as yet so……

€60 booked through Booking.com.

After we’ve completed our daily chores we’ll head out for some food and also some supplies for tomorrow as we have a 32km ish day to Cañaveral.
You are doing well !
We’ve just finished the 33/32 ishy km to Canaveral !
There’s a few ups and downs ahead - but great scenery too.
Hi to Sarah and wave at us as you will overtake us in a day or so I think .
Good luck
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
A quick update on where we stayed last night. The hot water only lasted for one ‘extra’ hot shower and half of my time in there….just saying. It did replenish quickly though.
We ate at a bar just over the road, El Secreto, which was all good standard stuff for a Menú price of €12.
 
Last edited:
So on to today. A couple of cliches to start with.
What a day out that was!
It was a day of two halves.

An extra early start of 06.45 so it was torch time again once I was out of town. With Maps.me and the yellow arrows it was easy to find the way and navigation wasn’t an issue anyway as it was one main track for a good part of the first half of the day. Watching the sun come up is always a special thing, knowing that the whole cycle of a day is starting again.
Sarah really enjoyed the kms to the picnic bench and shelter at the 15km mark although it had started to rain and she had had to stop to put waterproofs on.
I made it to the picnic area before I had to do the same.
We arrived within five minutes of each other so once again we had our snacks together. She then joined the ever present N630 for the rest of her ride to Cañaveral.
My second half was pretty tough. Some narrow undulating paths followed by a fairly long road section past the reservoir led to more climbs and lots of tough stoney tracks.
The waterproofs were dispatched at 22km and there was only one other light shower so all was well.

Tired but happy I arrived to find Sarah already booked in at Albergue Cañaveral.
Private en-suite room for €38 including breakfast.
Dinner will be found once a couple of places open at 8pm.
 
Last edited:
Sun.
Bigger sun.
Another nice old bridge. (I do like a bridge)
 

Attachments

  • 53F58C24-AC98-47EB-A7EC-D35C87AB801C.jpeg
    53F58C24-AC98-47EB-A7EC-D35C87AB801C.jpeg
    3.5 MB · Views: 2
  • 81AAAF08-A3FE-4194-A2C6-949A1D67DFB0.jpeg
    81AAAF08-A3FE-4194-A2C6-949A1D67DFB0.jpeg
    3.1 MB · Views: 2
  • 825DE2B8-9E5D-427E-A7B2-EC056727AAAC.jpeg
    825DE2B8-9E5D-427E-A7B2-EC056727AAAC.jpeg
    7.6 MB · Views: 6
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
It turned out that breakfast wasn’t included at the Albergue in Cañaveral but luckily we had some granola and milk.
I was away at 7.30 which worked in perfectly with the rain as it had just stopped.
The path out of town, remember that this is an alternative to the main path, wasn’t well marked at all so I relied on Maps.me to guide me.
Not far in to the day there was a ‘wake you up’ hill to walk up. It worked!
Most of the day was through very pleasant countryside, mainly through grazing ground with lots of trees, birds and tranquility.
Lots of undulations but nothing to strenuous until right at the end.

The Albergue for us tonight for €15 each.
Very good shower facilities and the whole place is clean. The bed seems OK on the first try but I’ll know more by the morning I guess.
We found a bar serving food and there is a well stocked shop called Tradys.

Tomorrow we have the choice of 11km to Carcaboso, which isn’t enough or adding another 38km to get to Aldeanueva.
Not liking either of those we are going to go straight through Carcaboso and then 12km later are another diversion to Oliva de Plasencia. It will add 7 or 8km to the whole thing but hey, what’s another 8k?

I’ll be sure to let you know how it goes.
 
The morning ‘wake you up’
Gnarly trees with mouths.
More paths.
Reservoir.
Dry feet…thankfully (that’s not me by the way, that’s Susi from Germany)
 

Attachments

  • B4BC6759-0FFE-4E24-9D6E-FFB96B08E63E.jpeg
    B4BC6759-0FFE-4E24-9D6E-FFB96B08E63E.jpeg
    2.6 MB · Views: 7
  • 7F14292D-8299-4132-B78A-EE3A7CBC9191.jpeg
    7F14292D-8299-4132-B78A-EE3A7CBC9191.jpeg
    7.2 MB · Views: 6
  • 27C0EFE7-647F-4EBB-971F-5501CDE38D17.jpeg
    27C0EFE7-647F-4EBB-971F-5501CDE38D17.jpeg
    5.2 MB · Views: 6
  • BED2E36A-B004-484E-905F-CEBEE354D6EA.jpeg
    BED2E36A-B004-484E-905F-CEBEE354D6EA.jpeg
    6.6 MB · Views: 6
  • 2D97E3B3-3935-4D85-B5C6-347F8C6DEAD7.jpeg
    2D97E3B3-3935-4D85-B5C6-347F8C6DEAD7.jpeg
    6 MB · Views: 7
After a good nights sleep in the Albergue our breakfast was in individual boxes in the fridge. Just a few things to get you going.
And the going today was alright. I say that because the first 11km to Carcaboso went by quickly and I met Sarah in a cafe for a cup of tea and a bite to eat.
The next section was excellent. Again it was so peaceful. Once at the top of the climb the narrow path wove it’s way through trees and cattle grazing territory once again. The main difference from the other days was the heavy rain that had fallen overnight. Loads of streams appeared where usual it is probably dry. The ground was very wet and a lot of time and care was required to keep feet dry and the rest of me clean. I didn’t get wet feet and I didn’t fall over.
I did, however, make a slight navigation error at km 4.3 out of Carcaboso. An easily missed arrow, well it was easily missed by me anyway so just a heads up. I realised within about 150 meters so no major disaster but annoying.
So the third section today was the diversion in to Oliva de Plasencia. Probably about 6.5km from the path. It was along a road and wasn’t very enjoyable, others may well disagree. Wet feet would have made it worse and not doing the extra 300 meters earlier would have made it better.
What really improved things though was that Sarah, being the early arriver, had already checked in to our accommodation, worked out what was what and where it all was AND had bought supplies for dinner and breakfast.
Winner winner, tinned meatballs dinner!!

Via Cappara Superio, twin room with en-suite and use of the kitchen €46.
There is a bar in town that serves food. I’m not sure on opening times and prices as we had our own supplies as already stated.

Looking forward to tomorrow already….ish.
 
Last edited:
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Leaving the walls of Galisteo.
Wet and boggy.
Peaceful and beautiful.
 

Attachments

  • 0566483C-F9BF-4806-8F3D-B072E59D16AD.jpeg
    0566483C-F9BF-4806-8F3D-B072E59D16AD.jpeg
    6.2 MB · Views: 4
  • BA0EA87F-522E-452B-B04E-4F12168FA490.jpeg
    BA0EA87F-522E-452B-B04E-4F12168FA490.jpeg
    6.8 MB · Views: 4
  • 38D2CCC9-B35C-4679-BC85-4FE8FE85008D.jpeg
    38D2CCC9-B35C-4679-BC85-4FE8FE85008D.jpeg
    7.6 MB · Views: 5
I wasn’t particularly looking forward to setting off this morning, what with the road walk in to town yesterday and the warnings of streams that could be difficult to cross, or indeed impassable, after the heavy rains of a couple of night ago.
However, the track back to The Camino was actually very pleasant. A wide gravel farm track that went through a Finca with some very impressive gate posts and , thankfully, some extra strong fencing.
Warning signs saying Peligro, Ganados Bravos (something like that) and the huge beasts lurking in the morning mist left me in no doubt what the Finca was all about.

Back on The Camino I was quickly at the Caparra Roman arch. Just a photo stop for me and it was on to see how the streams were running. There was a bit of zig-zagging to do at times but with the help of the stepping stones I made it across each one bone dry, not necessarily clean, but dry.
After 3 hours I stopped for a sandwich and after that, due to the very wet ground, decided walking on the adjacent road was the better idea. It was, but it wasn’t. Some days I don’t mind the road but the last two days…..
Anyway, there is no real choice but to carry on is there? So I carried on and the climb in to Aldeanueva seemed to go up, and up, and up. But I obviously made it as I’m telling you about it.
Sarah found a completely different route, the app we’re using advised against cycling on the main route and suggested the N630 again as an option.
However (we both get an however today), looking at the map it was evident that a Via Verde would make an excellent alternative as it was joinable just outside of Oliva de Plasencia and went all the way to Aldeanueva. An old disused railway made the gradient nice and gradual if not mainly uphill.

Tonight we are at Casa Rural Mullaero. €50 through Booking.com.
It’s a small house, kitchen and sitting area downstairs, bedroom and shower room upstairs. It is excellent. And there’s a washing machine.
With the heating on everything will be dry in no time….hopefully.
Food wise Sarah went to a shop for supplies so I can’t comment on restaurant/cafe options.
 
Last edited:
Impressive gate posts.
Very old arch.
Stepping stones…just.
The sun did come out.
Mountains in the mist.
 

Attachments

  • 3C005F76-8372-4EFB-B8E7-7AE7EFE7D5FF.jpeg
    3C005F76-8372-4EFB-B8E7-7AE7EFE7D5FF.jpeg
    4.2 MB · Views: 6
  • E47A16A1-F6DF-4D12-BE32-9C1A13498FD1.jpeg
    E47A16A1-F6DF-4D12-BE32-9C1A13498FD1.jpeg
    3.3 MB · Views: 6
  • 95B83E9F-AE23-456B-97F2-6D7A18AD0186.jpeg
    95B83E9F-AE23-456B-97F2-6D7A18AD0186.jpeg
    6.2 MB · Views: 5
  • 4D2DF652-681C-4851-B64C-8F3BE14C8844.jpeg
    4D2DF652-681C-4851-B64C-8F3BE14C8844.jpeg
    5.2 MB · Views: 6
  • BFFECABC-4C47-4CFD-B943-0C171EAE933F.jpeg
    BFFECABC-4C47-4CFD-B943-0C171EAE933F.jpeg
    3.4 MB · Views: 4
Join our full-service guided tour and let us convert you into a Pampered Pilgrim!
I’ve just worked out that my pictures become much better, not so blurry, if you click on them.
I hope that that helps.
 
Breakfast this morning was provided in the way of bread (toaster provided) butter and jam, a fruit juice and a couple of glasses of water.
I was going to leave at 7.30 but forgot to set the alarm clock so it was an 8am start which was absolutely fine. The first town of Baños de Montemayor was just under 10km along a mainly road route. It was actually alright and my jacket was removed as the sun cleared the morning mist.
As I was nearly through Baños Sarah called. She was right behind me so we found a bench to rest on and took a bit of fuel on board in the way of bananas.
Our routes spilt there as cyclists were recommended to us the road. The walking route was much steeper but shorter so we arrived at the petrol station at the top of the hill just a few minutes apart. It would have been rude not to stop again and have a cold drink.
On from there Sarah went ahead and we both agreed that the way to Calzada de Béjar was very pleasant.

So here we are. A private room above the bar (same owners as the Albergue) for €50. Shared bathroom, but it’s only us here, payment in cash.
A very tasty and filling Menú del Dia for €12 per person, including wine and water.
Perfect.
 
Last edited:
Not quite there yet!
Views back across Baños.
My new very vocal friend.
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
Decent signal at last. Here you go.
 

Attachments

  • C36C69F4-AFBC-4AEB-98D8-0C0342ED0259.jpeg
    C36C69F4-AFBC-4AEB-98D8-0C0342ED0259.jpeg
    5.4 MB · Views: 4
  • 4ACEF3F2-E9E4-4A24-A3AE-A218C24D932A.jpeg
    4ACEF3F2-E9E4-4A24-A3AE-A218C24D932A.jpeg
    2.9 MB · Views: 4
  • EE147894-6939-4510-8868-779500CCE2A8.jpeg
    EE147894-6939-4510-8868-779500CCE2A8.jpeg
    6.7 MB · Views: 9
Last edited:
We had breakfast at 8 o’clock this morning in the bar below our room as per dinner yesterday.
On leaving I felt that it was one of the best places that we’d stayed so far. The owners work so hard and they were so accommodating and keen to please that it just felt a bit special. Speaking to the chap last night it is obvious that the village has little there and that they run their Albergue and bar more as a service to pilgrims/people than a get rich scheme.
Anyway, that’s what I think so thank you to them for that.

Breakfast was toast, tea and orange juice with a small packet of Maria biscuits for €3.5. It did the job and by 8.20 I was underway.
After 2 or 3 km Sarah caught up on the bike and we stayed together until the bar/cafe El Peregrino in the first village that we came to at around 9km.
Now, there seems to be no ill effect thus far, but the café certainly wasn’t what you would class as clean. The woman working there seemed to have much less interest in us that most of the cattle that we pass.
But hey, it was the only option and that is just our opinion.

After that I was on my own. Sarah cycled off to see if there was any supplies to be had in the second village…that was a no…and on to Fuenterroble to sort tonight’s home for us.

I in the meantime carried on walking. For the last few days I’ve been experiencing a bit of lower leg pain and swelling in my right leg. I say pain, it’s more of an annoyance but it’s taken the edge off of my pace and made things a bit less pleasant.
This afternoon a gentleman called Pere that we have been seeing most days for the last week gave me some homeopathic cream with Arnica and John & Marion donated a bit of good old Deep Heat.
Thank you to all for the help.

Sarah was not taken by the look of the donativo Albergue so sorted out a room in Casa Rural Familia García for €50.
We had a good and filling Menú del Dia at the one and only bar in town for €11.50 each.
A busy place operated by a very hard working couple.

There is also a small shop in town which opened at 6pm where breakfast and lunch supplies for tomorrow were purchased.

A 28km day tomorrow with a fair bit of up and down awaits us….one day nearer to a day off in Salamanca, one day closer to Santiago…..
 
Last edited:
He she comes.
Struggling on to the bridge.
Saint James.
 

Attachments

  • BD9B8751-4613-48E6-B4AF-B974B14FD345.jpeg
    BD9B8751-4613-48E6-B4AF-B974B14FD345.jpeg
    6.1 MB · Views: 8
  • 99C13EEF-F8DE-4EEE-A0F4-129B71A4996E.jpeg
    99C13EEF-F8DE-4EEE-A0F4-129B71A4996E.jpeg
    6.8 MB · Views: 8
  • D34C971A-E324-491E-B9D3-E7D7E7B1B8E4.jpeg
    D34C971A-E324-491E-B9D3-E7D7E7B1B8E4.jpeg
    4.2 MB · Views: 8
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
I left Fuenterroble at 7.30, the day was looking nice and the walk was a walk of three parts to my mind.
The firts was along a wide avenue through grazing land. It was quite wet in places and the stepping stones at various points were definitely a bonus.
The second section was the one that climbed up and up to the highest point of the day. For those UK based, 80meters higher than Snowdon. The highest point in Wales and higher than anywhere in England.
After the descent come the hardest part. About 12km of road/track by the road. The road was needed due to how wet the track was and by that time my leg made my mind make it harder….if that makes sense.
Anyway, we made it to San Pedro de Rozados. Sarah didn’t get to cycle the middle section following instead the suggested alternate for bicycles.
The wind had got up by the end but the dark clouds that were present in places held on to their water so that certainly helped.

Hotel VII Carreras is where we stayed. €46 for an en-suite doble. All comfortable and clean. There doesn’t seem to be much else in town.
Menú del Dia for €12 each.
 
Even the birds were helping.
Views from the top.
The wide way to start the day.
 

Attachments

  • 1DCCD37D-E8B1-4BDC-9125-A6AB360DA3F3.jpeg
    1DCCD37D-E8B1-4BDC-9125-A6AB360DA3F3.jpeg
    7.2 MB · Views: 4
  • 06B85C22-9365-409E-B1BD-3A12A477994E.jpeg
    06B85C22-9365-409E-B1BD-3A12A477994E.jpeg
    5 MB · Views: 4
  • 06625F5C-92BD-452B-8914-5DD37403F614.jpeg
    06625F5C-92BD-452B-8914-5DD37403F614.jpeg
    7 MB · Views: 5
So you pushed a bike across that steel girder? I can’t imagine having enough balance to get my body across while walking, much less pushing a bike.

Buen camino, great to see you’re back!
When I crossed in 2012, with help, it was a tree trunk.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.

❓How to ask a question

How to post a new question on the Camino Forum.

Forum Rules

Forum Rules

Camino Updates on YouTube

Camino Conversations

Most downloaded Resources

This site is run by Ivar at

in Santiago de Compostela.
This site participates in the Amazon Affiliate program, designed to provide a means for Ivar to earn fees by linking to Amazon
Official Camino Passport (Credential) | 2024 Camino Guides
Back
Top