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Via Augusta in December!

HeidiL

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Francés (2004-), Portugués, Madrid, 4/5 Plata, 1/8 Levante, 1/8 Lana, Augusta, hospitalera Grado.
My 22-year-old son and I will be walking Via Augusta in December!

We have return flights to Málaga December 12th - 21st, and this looks like a nice chance to spend some time together, practice Spanish and eat really well. And buy Jamón and turrón to take home for Christmas.
 
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OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
2020
My 22-year-old son and I will be walking Via Augusta in December!

We have return flights to Málaga December 12th - 21st, and this looks like a nice chance to spend some time together, practice Spanish and eat really well. And buy Jamón and turrón to take home for Christmas.
I’ll be watching for your posts. Hoping for great weather for both of you.
I had to find out what ‘turrón’ was in English.. my translator told me it was ‘nougat’? Yummy
Buen Camino
Annie
 
I will be starting the Vis dela Plata from Cadiz on the 4th January and would appreciate any up to date information on accomodation on the Via Augusta as far as Sevilla.
 

HeidiL

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Francés (2004-), Portugués, Madrid, 4/5 Plata, 1/8 Levante, 1/8 Lana, Augusta, hospitalera Grado.
I'll let you know what we find!

Supposedly, there aren't many albergues, but we're fine with small hostals and don't mind asking for a pilgrim discount.
 
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alansykes

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Except the Francés
My 22-year-old son and I will be walking Via Augusta in December!

We have return flights to Málaga December 12th - 21st, and this looks like a nice chance to spend some time together, practice Spanish and eat really well. And buy Jamón and turrón to take home for Christmas.
I hope very much you enjoy it, but I'd strongly recommend considering the similar length Vía Serrana from near Gibraltar which has spectacular mountain countryside almost all the way, and is also easier to get to from Málaga airport.

The Serrana coincides with the last 2 days of the Augusta before Seville and they were, if like me you don't like flat, almost horrifically flat. And the Serrana was surprisingly cheap and very pilgrim-friendly.
 
Past OR future Camino
CF- Finisterre-Muxia 03/17; Camino SK 10/17; Norte 03/18; Ingles 11/18; Augusta 03/19
I will be starting the Vis dela Plata from Cadiz on the 4th January and would appreciate any up to date information on accomodation on the Via Augusta as far as Sevilla.

Hoping you post. I’d like to start the VDLP from Cadiz late February so interested in your experience.
 

HeidiL

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Francés (2004-), Portugués, Madrid, 4/5 Plata, 1/8 Levante, 1/8 Lana, Augusta, hospitalera Grado.
We have reservations for the night in Málaga when we arrive disgustingly late, for a Blablacar ride from Málaga to Cadiz and for the first night after a very short day - in San Fernando.

I have also made a print-out of the bus timetable from Sevilla to Málaga on the day our flight leaves, so we know we're coming home.

Everything else will simply have to wait until we start walking...
 

HeidiL

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Francés (2004-), Portugués, Madrid, 4/5 Plata, 1/8 Levante, 1/8 Lana, Augusta, hospitalera Grado.
My backpack is packed. Can't be bothered weighing it, but it's about the same as I usually carry, plus a reflective vest. It might be a bit darker than our usual times of the year...

Now I'm off to Luxembourg for work, and on Wednesday I'll have several hours at home before my son and I take off for Spain.

My husband is VERY jealous, but can't take any time off from work right now.
 
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Past OR future Camino
CF- Finisterre-Muxia 03/17; Camino SK 10/17; Norte 03/18; Ingles 11/18; Augusta 03/19
My backpack is packed. Can't be bothered weighing it, but it's about the same as I usually carry, plus a reflective vest. It might be a bit darker than our usual times of the year...

Now I'm off to Luxembourg for work, and on Wednesday I'll have several hours at home before my son and I take off for Spain.

My husband is VERY jealous, but can't take any time off from work right now.
Ooh I’m so excited and so glad to see you post. I’m very interested in your Via Augusta impressions/ feedback (is the route doable/safe alone, is it marked well,is there inexpensive accommodation, is it worth it). ULTREIA, Buen Camino and thank you!!!!!
 

HeidiL

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Francés (2004-), Portugués, Madrid, 4/5 Plata, 1/8 Levante, 1/8 Lana, Augusta, hospitalera Grado.
Thank you! I'm sitting now in a meeting with the European Commission, using the coffee break to plan. I mentioned the Via Augusta to the Spanish representative before the meeting started, and he said the temperature in Andalucia was above 20 C when he left yesterday...
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
Thank you! I'm sitting now in a meeting with the European Commission, using the coffee break to plan. I mentioned the Via Augusta to the Spanish representative before the meeting started, and he said the temperature in Andalucia was above 20 C when he left yesterday...
Oh, now we know what is going on at these EC meetings. Planning Caminos :D :D :D
 

HeidiL

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Francés (2004-), Portugués, Madrid, 4/5 Plata, 1/8 Levante, 1/8 Lana, Augusta, hospitalera Grado.
Only in the coffee breaks. (I don't drink coffee, so I have time to spare...)
 
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HeidiL

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Francés (2004-), Portugués, Madrid, 4/5 Plata, 1/8 Levante, 1/8 Lana, Augusta, hospitalera Grado.
OK, we have started. We started walking from Cádiz at 15.30 after finding the Santiago church closed - but we got sellos at the Cathedral and grabbed an extremely hurried lunch.

It’s a very, very nice walk to San Fernando, possibly a bit longer than the handbook says, but beautiful. The beaches, salt marshes and ocean views were really outstanding, and the nice locals had put plenty of benches out for us. But we hardly paused at all in order to get to town before dark. Which we did.

Now we’re in bed at Hostal San Marco, 43 Euros for a twin room if you order from their home page.

The restaurant we found in Tripadvisor was closed, but the kebab place across the street from the hostal was excellent and cheap.

Good night, pligrims!
 

HeidiL

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Francés (2004-), Portugués, Madrid, 4/5 Plata, 1/8 Levante, 1/8 Lana, Augusta, hospitalera Grado.
We’re now in Puerto de Santa Maria after two lovely walks.

San Fernando to Puerto Real included an 8-km path along the train line next to a natural reserve for birds, lovely views, not a single train while we walked. Halfway was a platform with benches and a sign with pictures of the birds, but very sunbleached. And from PR to PdSM the way went through the wildlife park next to the university campus - quite stunning. Plenty of benches and places to exercise, should you need some extra sweating.

Restaurante La Plaza in Puerto Real has great tapas, by the way.
 
Past OR future Camino
CF- Finisterre-Muxia 03/17; Camino SK 10/17; Norte 03/18; Ingles 11/18; Augusta 03/19
We’re now in Puerto de Santa Maria after two lovely walks.

San Fernando to Puerto Real included an 8-km path along the train line next to a natural reserve for birds, lovely views, not a single train while we walked. Halfway was a platform with benches and a sign with pictures of the birds, but very sunbleached. And from PR to PdSM the way went through the wildlife park next to the university campus - quite stunning. Plenty of benches and places to exercise, should you need some extra sweating.

Restaurante La Plaza in Puerto Real has great tapas, by the way.

Thanks Heidi for posting. Please continue to comment on your daily km distance. I’d like to walk it in 7-8 days if possible. ULTREIA and again THANK YOU!
 

HeidiL

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Francés (2004-), Portugués, Madrid, 4/5 Plata, 1/8 Levante, 1/8 Lana, Augusta, hospitalera Grado.
Jerez de la Frontera was supposed to be an easy walk, but I have two large blisters and a sore knee. Still, we’re here, at an overpriced and noisy hotel.

Today was less interesting, visually, apart from a chance for some exploration. After about 8 km we passed what looked like an abandoned monastery, but actually, according to some locals on bikes, used to be rented for weddings and large parties. The place was wide open, so we looked around a bit on the ground floor.

Restaurant A Mar served us a wonderful lunch. Not cheap, but strongly recommended.

And the Cathedral, which we saw a few years ago, was lovely.

I must add that today we needed maps, the printed text from the pilgrim guide, GPS AND my son’s sharp eyes for yellow arrows to find the way. Not easy, especially when we were approaching Jerez.
 
Last edited:
Past OR future Camino
CF- Finisterre-Muxia 03/17; Camino SK 10/17; Norte 03/18; Ingles 11/18; Augusta 03/19
Thanks again Heidi, so until Jerez the path markers/maps is relatively easy to find? What distances are you covering per day (>25 or 30)? Thanks
 
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HeidiL

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Francés (2004-), Portugués, Madrid, 4/5 Plata, 1/8 Levante, 1/8 Lana, Augusta, hospitalera Grado.
I have torn open a blister, which does not look good. So we walked (me in Crocs) a bit in Jerez, had lunch and took a taxi to El Cuervo. We saw the yellow arrows from the taxi, so apparently, the Camino runs next to the road - boring!

Single rooms at Hostal Andalucia are 18 Euros. And most bars and restaurants are closed on Sunday evening, but we had some acceptable tapas.

Tomorrow we will go (limp) just 9 km, to Lebrija, in the hope of letting my blister heal a bit.
 

HeidiL

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Francés (2004-), Portugués, Madrid, 4/5 Plata, 1/8 Levante, 1/8 Lana, Augusta, hospitalera Grado.
In Lebrija - nice walk along field and greenhouses, a couple of interesting road crossings, but not too bad if you’re taking care.

Well enough sign posted, this seems to vary a lot on the Augusta. Would not attempt without GPS.

On a personal note, blister better, but no fun. Have started using ointment from the Farmacia, which is supposed to hinder infection, with the dry compresses I’ve been using. I’ve also got a cold, but that’s what happens when I spend so much time in airplanes. Walking 18 km tomorrow, unless blister gets a lot worse, planning to alternate between Crocs and shoes, and then we’ll skip the 32 km between Cabezas de San Juan and whatever the next place is called.

I’m coming back. I’d like to walk the whole Via Augusta some winter, without blisters or sniffles, and think I could manage to plan it to be OK for my husband to join me.
 

HeidiL

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Francés (2004-), Portugués, Madrid, 4/5 Plata, 1/8 Levante, 1/8 Lana, Augusta, hospitalera Grado.
Actually, it was close to 20 km to Cabezas de San Juan. Still no info on why John the Baptist has more than one head.

The first 14 km were nice, fields and along an irrigation canal, but then we had about 2 km of wading in deep mud. It rained a little yesterday.

Then we had one of the most frightening walks I’ve ever had, past a barnyard with a dead sheep on the path, and some very aggressive dogs. We were walking back to back at this point, sharing my poles, and the small black boss dog got close enough to try to bite one of the poles.

I would never walk that stretch alone or without poles, and if there’s been any rain in the last week, find another way without shoe-eating mud.

To keep from aggravating my blister, which is healing nicely, we took the train from Cabezas to Utrera. There are very few.
 
Thanks for your posts and very interesting updates from the Via Augusta.I will be putting your details and information to good use when I start walking from Cadiz on the 3rd January.

I have a flight to Jerez, followed by a short train ride to Cadiz and got myself booked into a hostal in the old part of the City.

I got back last night from a great Camino Frances....Pamplona to Santiago so, I have binge read all your posts.

With regard to your bad experience with dogs, near Portomarin I met two Pilgrims who had been bitten , in separate incidents.The dog involved in one of these attacks had bitten a young woman 3 days previously.

Thanks for your warning as now I will be prepared.

Look forward to more posts.
 

HeidiL

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Francés (2004-), Portugués, Madrid, 4/5 Plata, 1/8 Levante, 1/8 Lana, Augusta, hospitalera Grado.
Alcalá de Guadaira is nice, and the path is a lot like the Meseta. Endless fields, tractor ruts, most dogs behind fences. Two dog incidents, but none as aggressive as the ones yesterday.

Really nice day’s walk, rolling hills with pretty trees in the background.

We dropped by the Santiago church in town, nice sello, boring building.

Phoned to ask about the albergue here, but it’s full of homeless people, so we’re glad to pay for a hotel room.

Only one day more of walking. When I get home to a proper keyboard, I will write all the stages in one post.
 
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CF- Finisterre-Muxia 03/17; Camino SK 10/17; Norte 03/18; Ingles 11/18; Augusta 03/19
Thanks for your posts and very interesting updates from the Via Augusta.I will be putting your details and information to good use when I start walking from Cadiz on the 3rd January.

I have a flight to Jerez, followed by a short train ride to Cadiz and got myself booked into a hostal in the old part of the City.

I got back last night from a great Camino Frances....Pamplona to Santiago so, I have binge read all your posts.

With regard to your bad experience with dogs, near Portomarin I met two Pilgrims who had been bitten , in separate incidents.The dog involved in one of these attacks had bitten a young woman 3 days previously.

Thanks for your warning as now I will be prepared.

Look forward to more posts.

@Eugene Carroll I’m still undecided whether to walk the entire Via Augusta before starting the VDLP so I’d appreciate hearing your experience in January. I’m arriving in Seville Feb 23rd. ULTREIA !
 

HeidiL

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Francés (2004-), Portugués, Madrid, 4/5 Plata, 1/8 Levante, 1/8 Lana, Augusta, hospitalera Grado.
Lovely walk today, riverbanks and greenery. We went off the camino to go directly to the train station instead of visiting the Cathedral - but there were arrows that way, too, we discovered.

We also went mad shopping at Decathlon for camino gear, had really good lunch and bought our train tickets.

According to my GPS there’s a Santiago church 500m from here, we might go there instead of to the Cathedral.
 
@Eugene Carroll I’m still undecided whether to walk the entire Via Augusta before starting the VDLP so I’d appreciate hearing your experience in January. I’m arriving in Seville Feb 23rd. ULTREIA !
Colette,
Thank you for your confidence in my reporting abilities. If it helps, my plan is to walk, in January, the Via Augusta to Sevilla and continue along the Via de la Plata to Zafra. Then, I have to leave the Camino....birth of 3rd grand daughter, house move and horse racing at Cheltenham. I will return to Zafra late Feb/early March to complete the Via de la Plata - all things being equal.
Off course, I will do my best to record my Camino especially if my experience can be of any help to another Pilgrim. I am looking forward to the hearing from Heidi and perhaps I can use her format as a way to record my journey.
 
Past OR future Camino
CF- Finisterre-Muxia 03/17; Camino SK 10/17; Norte 03/18; Ingles 11/18; Augusta 03/19
Colette,
Thank you for your confidence in my reporting abilities. If it helps, my plan is to walk, in January, the Via Augusta to Sevilla and continue along the Via de la Plata to Zafra. Then, I have to leave the Camino....birth of 3rd grand daughter, house move and horse racing at Cheltenham. I will return to Zafra late Feb/early March to complete the Via de la Plata - all things being equal.
Off course, I will do my best to record my Camino especially if my experience can be of any help to another Pilgrim. I am looking forward to the hearing from Heidi and perhaps I can use her format as a way to record my journey.

Thank you so very much Eugene. If I walk the entire Via Augusta, I should be in Seville around March 3rd but by then you’ll be further on. One never knows. Anyway, good luck on your walk and on the house move and prayers for the birth of your granddaughter. Burn Camino and Merry Xmas 🎄
 
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Thank you so very much Eugene. If I walk the entire Via Augusta, I should be in Seville around March 3rd but by then you’ll be further on. One never knows. Anyway, good luck on your walk and on the house move and prayers for the birth of your granddaughter. Burn Camino and Merry Xmas 🎄
Thanks for your Christmas greetings and your good wishes. Because of circumstances, I do not have definite dates to return to Zafra and continue the Via de la Plata. Late Feb/early March is the earliest dates I could re-start the Camino, I won't know for sure until the end of January when baby three is due to join us.
Colette, wishing you and yours a great Christmas and New Year.
 

HeidiL

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Francés (2004-), Portugués, Madrid, 4/5 Plata, 1/8 Levante, 1/8 Lana, Augusta, hospitalera Grado.
Sorry, I got caught up in my NEXT walk (starting Ruta de la Lana with my husband, December 26th to January 5th) and forgot to close up here.

There WAS a Santiago church, and we got sellos and got to see a huge stone scallop that the priest was very proud of.
 
Past OR future Camino
CF- Finisterre-Muxia 03/17; Camino SK 10/17; Norte 03/18; Ingles 11/18; Augusta 03/19
Sorry, I got caught up in my NEXT walk (starting Ruta de la Lana with my husband, December 26th to January 5th) and forgot to close up here.

There WAS a Santiago church, and we got sellos and got to see a huge stone scallop that the priest was very proud of.

Well I hope your Ruta Lana went well. May I ask you where did you see the Santiagomchurch and scallop ? In Cadiz ?
 
Heidi,
Welcome back from your two Caminos. I hope you’re well.
After a couple of days in Cadiz I started the Via Augusta on Sunday. I am in Jerez tonight.
The weather is fantastic and as you mentioned some of the walking.
So far so good. My only gripe is that I seem to be the only Pilgrim on this Camino at this time.
 
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HeidiL

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Francés (2004-), Portugués, Madrid, 4/5 Plata, 1/8 Levante, 1/8 Lana, Augusta, hospitalera Grado.
My only gripe is that I seem to be the only Pilgrim on this Camino at this time.

Yes, it's rather unpopulated, isn't it? We must promote it...

I'm well - still recovering from my stroke back in March, but I consider this a part of my training. Saw my physician today, and he's very impressed and happy with my progress - he can't detect any symptoms. I can, but they're pretty weak.
 
Yes walking can be a great recovery aid. For what it’s worth, I had a quadruple bypass 4 years ago. I had a full medical last September and my Doctor reduced my medication to the minimum. I put this down to regular caminos and moderation (well, most of the time).
 

HeidiL

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Francés (2004-), Portugués, Madrid, 4/5 Plata, 1/8 Levante, 1/8 Lana, Augusta, hospitalera Grado.
Everything in moderation - including moderation!
 
For Colette,
With regards to fording rivers....a couple of photos of a piece of water and the alternatives. Boots off and wade or check your balance on a steel plank. About 5kms before Guillena earlier today. Via de la Plata is fantastic with Albergues and Pilgrims in plenty. 78F9D9C8-3B18-4473-BC0B-BD050A3113C0.jpeg 0937A3BD-7765-44E7-BD61-FD08DFAA2870.jpeg
 
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Another photo for Colette.
Today’s river to Ford was easy, a bit slippery because of ice. Years ago I tackled this bad boy when it was flooded and walking on the stone steps was the only option.
A very kind Peregrina held my hand and we crossed together. Who 83F0996F-EDB9-41E2-8CFF-667FF0E1287B.jpeg said romance is dead.
 

HeidiL

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Francés (2004-), Portugués, Madrid, 4/5 Plata, 1/8 Levante, 1/8 Lana, Augusta, hospitalera Grado.
The very lightly edited version of my report:

Cádiz

We started walking from Cádiz at 15.30 after finding the Santiago church closed - but we got sellos at the Cathedral and grabbed an extremely hurried lunch.

It’s a very, very nice walk to San Fernando, possibly a bit longer than the handbook says, but beautiful. The beaches, salt marshes and ocean views were really outstanding, and the nice locals had put plenty of benches out for us. But we hardly paused at all in order to get to town before dark. Which we did.

Now we’re in bed at Hostal San Marco, 43 Euros for a twin room if you order from their home page.

San Fernando (13.8 km)

We’re now in Puerto de Santa Maria after two lovely walks.

San Fernando to Puerto Real included an 8-km path along the train line next to a natural reserve for birds, lovely views, not a single train while we walked. Halfway was a platform with benches and a sign with pictures of the birds, but very sunbleached. And from PR to PdSM the way went through the wildlife park next to the university campus - quite stunning. Plenty of benches and places to exercise, should you need some extra sweating.

Restaurante La Plaza in Puerto Real has great tapas, by the way.

Puerto Real de Santa Maria (24.4 km)

Jerez de la Frontera was supposed to be an easy walk, but I have two large blisters and a sore knee. Still, we’re here, at an overpriced and noisy hotel.

Today was less interesting, visually, apart from a chance for some exploration. After about 8 km we passed what looked like an abandoned monastery, but actually, according to some locals on bikes, used to be rented for weddings and large parties. The place was wide open, so we looked around a bit on the ground floor.

Restaurant A Mar served us a wonderful lunch. Not cheap, but strongly recommended.

And the Cathedral, which we saw a few years ago, was lovely.

I must add that today we needed maps, the printed text from the pilgrim guide, GPS AND my son’s sharp eyes for yellow arrows to find the way. Not easy, especially when we were approaching Jerez.

Jerez de la Frontera (14.5 km)

I have torn open a blister, which does not look good. So we walked (me in Crocs) a bit in Jerez, had lunch and took a taxi to El Cuervo. We saw the yellow arrows from the taxi, so apparently, the Camino runs next to the road - boring!

Single rooms at Hostal Andalucia are 18 Euros. And most bars and restaurants are closed on Sunday evening, but we had some acceptable tapas.

Tomorrow we will go (limp) just 9 km, to Lebrija, in the hope of letting my blister heal a bit.

El Cuervo (27 km (taxi))

In Lebrija - nice walk along field and greenhouses, a couple of interesting road crossings, but not too bad if you’re taking care.

Well enough sign posted, this seems to vary a lot on the Augusta. Would not attempt without GPS.

On a personal note, blister better, but no fun. Walking 18 km tomorrow, unless blister gets a lot worse, planning to alternate between Crocs and shoes, and then we’ll skip the 32 km between Cabezas de San Juan and whatever the next place is called.

I’m coming back. I’d like to walk the whole Via Augusta some winter, without blisters or sniffles, and think I could manage to plan it to be OK for my husband to join me.

Lebrija (9.2 km)

Actually, it was close to 20 km to Cabezas de San Juan. Still no info on why John the Baptist has more than one head.

The first 14 km were nice, fields and along an irrigation canal, but then we had about 2 km of wading in deep mud. It rained a little yesterday.

Then we had one of the most frightening walks I’ve ever had, past a barnyard with a dead sheep on the path, and some very aggressive dogs. We were walking back to back at this point, sharing my poles, and the small black boss dog got close enough to try to bite one of the poles.

I would never walk that stretch alone or without poles, and if there’s been any rain in the last week, find another way without shoe-eating mud.


Cabezas de San Juan (18.3 km (supposedly)

To keep from aggravating my blister, which is healing nicely, we took the train from Cabezas to Utrera. There are very few trains.

Utrera (32,6 km (train))

Alcalá de Guadaira is nice, and the path is a lot like the Meseta. Endless fields, tractor ruts, most dogs behind fences. Two dog incidents, but none as aggressive as the ones yesterday.

Really nice day’s walk, rolling hills with pretty trees in the background.

We dropped by the Santiago church in town, nice sello, boring building.

Phoned to ask about the albergue here, but it’s full of homeless people, so we’re glad to pay for a hotel room.

Alcalá de Guadaira (18.7 km)

Lovely walk today, riverbanks and greenery. We went off the camino to go directly to the train station in Sevilla, where our hostal was, instead of visiting the Cathedral - but there were arrows that way, too, we discovered.

According to my GPS there’s a Santiago church 500m from here, we might go there instead of to the Cathedral. (There was, we did. Nice people.)

Sevilla (18,8 km)
 

Delphinoula

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
C. PdC 2018 Finisterre Muxía 2018
C.Franconia 2019 C.Algeciras Sevillia 2019
Swabian C. (2020)
Alcalá de Guadaira is nice, and the path is a lot like the Meseta. Endless fields, tractor ruts, most dogs behind fences. Two dog incidents, but none as aggressive as the ones yesterday.

Really nice day’s walk, rolling hills with pretty trees in the background.

We dropped by the Santiago church in town, nice sello, boring building.

Phoned to ask about the albergue here, but it’s full of homeless people, so we’re glad to pay for a hotel room.

Only one day more of walking. When I get home to a proper keyboard, I will write all the stages in one post.
Hi how did you fiddle out of Utrera? Still undecided which way to go.
 

Darleen Taylor

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
2018
The very lightly edited version of my report:

Cádiz

We started walking from Cádiz at 15.30 after finding the Santiago church closed - but we got sellos at the Cathedral and grabbed an extremely hurried lunch.

It’s a very, very nice walk to San Fernando, possibly a bit longer than the handbook says, but beautiful. The beaches, salt marshes and ocean views were really outstanding, and the nice locals had put plenty of benches out for us. But we hardly paused at all in order to get to town before dark. Which we did.

Now we’re in bed at Hostal San Marco, 43 Euros for a twin room if you order from their home page.

San Fernando (13.8 km)

We’re now in Puerto de Santa Maria after two lovely walks.

San Fernando to Puerto Real included an 8-km path along the train line next to a natural reserve for birds, lovely views, not a single train while we walked. Halfway was a platform with benches and a sign with pictures of the birds, but very sunbleached. And from PR to PdSM the way went through the wildlife park next to the university campus - quite stunning. Plenty of benches and places to exercise, should you need some extra sweating.

Restaurante La Plaza in Puerto Real has great tapas, by the way.

Puerto Real de Santa Maria (24.4 km)

Jerez de la Frontera was supposed to be an easy walk, but I have two large blisters and a sore knee. Still, we’re here, at an overpriced and noisy hotel.

Today was less interesting, visually, apart from a chance for some exploration. After about 8 km we passed what looked like an abandoned monastery, but actually, according to some locals on bikes, used to be rented for weddings and large parties. The place was wide open, so we looked around a bit on the ground floor.

Restaurant A Mar served us a wonderful lunch. Not cheap, but strongly recommended.

And the Cathedral, which we saw a few years ago, was lovely.

I must add that today we needed maps, the printed text from the pilgrim guide, GPS AND my son’s sharp eyes for yellow arrows to find the way. Not easy, especially when we were approaching Jerez.

Jerez de la Frontera (14.5 km)

I have torn open a blister, which does not look good. So we walked (me in Crocs) a bit in Jerez, had lunch and took a taxi to El Cuervo. We saw the yellow arrows from the taxi, so apparently, the Camino runs next to the road - boring!

Single rooms at Hostal Andalucia are 18 Euros. And most bars and restaurants are closed on Sunday evening, but we had some acceptable tapas.

Tomorrow we will go (limp) just 9 km, to Lebrija, in the hope of letting my blister heal a bit.

El Cuervo (27 km (taxi))

In Lebrija - nice walk along field and greenhouses, a couple of interesting road crossings, but not too bad if you’re taking care.

Well enough sign posted, this seems to vary a lot on the Augusta. Would not attempt without GPS.

On a personal note, blister better, but no fun. Walking 18 km tomorrow, unless blister gets a lot worse, planning to alternate between Crocs and shoes, and then we’ll skip the 32 km between Cabezas de San Juan and whatever the next place is called.

I’m coming back. I’d like to walk the whole Via Augusta some winter, without blisters or sniffles, and think I could manage to plan it to be OK for my husband to join me.

Lebrija (9.2 km)

Actually, it was close to 20 km to Cabezas de San Juan. Still no info on why John the Baptist has more than one head.

The first 14 km were nice, fields and along an irrigation canal, but then we had about 2 km of wading in deep mud. It rained a little yesterday.

Then we had one of the most frightening walks I’ve ever had, past a barnyard with a dead sheep on the path, and some very aggressive dogs. We were walking back to back at this point, sharing my poles, and the small black boss dog got close enough to try to bite one of the poles.

I would never walk that stretch alone or without poles, and if there’s been any rain in the last week, find another way without shoe-eating mud.


Cabezas de San Juan (18.3 km (supposedly)

To keep from aggravating my blister, which is healing nicely, we took the train from Cabezas to Utrera. There are very few trains.

Utrera (32,6 km (train))

Alcalá de Guadaira is nice, and the path is a lot like the Meseta. Endless fields, tractor ruts, most dogs behind fences. Two dog incidents, but none as aggressive as the ones yesterday.

Really nice day’s walk, rolling hills with pretty trees in the background.

We dropped by the Santiago church in town, nice sello, boring building.

Phoned to ask about the albergue here, but it’s full of homeless people, so we’re glad to pay for a hotel room.

Alcalá de Guadaira (18.7 km)

Lovely walk today, riverbanks and greenery. We went off the camino to go directly to the train station in Sevilla, where our hostal was, instead of visiting the Cathedral - but there were arrows that way, too, we discovered.

According to my GPS there’s a Santiago church 500m from here, we might go there instead of to the Cathedral. (There was, we did. Nice people.)

Sevilla (18,8 km)
What a great recap. I have plans to walk the Augusta in late August, and am having so much trouble finding accommodation in Puerto Real. I had a place booked for 92 euro (for 2 of us), but they cancelled our reservation. I can't seem to find anything else for under $500 per night!! Where did you stay in Puerto Real. Also, did you find that the trail was well marked, or did you have any major difficulties. I have been trying to find a GPS track, but have only been able to find the first day.
 
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HeidiL

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Francés (2004-), Portugués, Madrid, 4/5 Plata, 1/8 Levante, 1/8 Lana, Augusta, hospitalera Grado.

Darleen Taylor

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
2018
My main resources were https://www.mundicamino.com/rutas-c...gusta/etapa/1/cadiz/puerto-real/tipo/trazado/ and https://www.caminosantiago.org/cpperegrino/caminos/caminover.asp?kCamino=ES36a&CaminoId=49.

According to these resources, there were several places to stay in Puerto Real, Hostal de San Marcos was nice, but pricy. I have no idea whether it's still there, sorry!

Late August? That is going to be very hot!
Thank-you so much...I will check out these sites. Yes, we are expecting it to be quite hot.
 
Past OR future Camino
Camino Del Estrecho, Ruta Fray Leopoldo,
Vía Serrana, Camino Francés
Where did you stay in Puerto Real.
There are a lot of Airbnb's in Puerto Real. Some are reasonably priced. (The link below say Madrid, but it actually takes you to a map of the places available in Puerto Real.)
 
Past OR future Camino
Camino Del Estrecho, Ruta Fray Leopoldo,
Vía Serrana, Camino Francés
I have been trying to find a GPS track, but have only been able to find the first day.
Hi Darleen,
Wikiloc has many GPS tracks for the Via Augusta. Here is the link for the route posted by the Asociación Gaditana Jacobea:
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/via-augusta-1a-etapa-cadiz-puerto-real-13669657

The other stages are listed on the first and second pages here:

If you haven't used Wikiloc before, they are a wonderful resource for GPX tracks for all over Spain. Another Wikiloc poster for the route has numerous photos and comments for each stage. Here is one of his stages:
 
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Darleen Taylor

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
2018
There are a lot of Airbnb's in Puerto Real. Some are reasonably priced. (The link below say Madrid, but it actually takes you to a map of the places available in Puerto Real.)
Thank-you so much. I had looked into Airbnb in Puerto Real and came up pretty much empty. With your help, I was able to book a room.
 
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Past OR future Camino
Camino Del Estrecho, Ruta Fray Leopoldo,
Vía Serrana, Camino Francés
I was able to book a room.
I'm so glad you found something! Puerto Real is a great place to stay and explore.

If you have trouble finding places to stay in other stops along the way, here are some resources I've used:
escapadarural.com
airbnb.com
booking.com
casasrurales.net
hundredrooms.net
brujulea.net

Often, if you can find the exact name of the house on one of the listings above, you can look it up on Google and contact the owner directly for a price that does not include a booking fee. EscapadaRural does not charge a booking fee and gives you the owner's phone number for direct contact.

Let me know if you have any questions about using the GPX tracks on Wikiloc above. Wikiloc is an app that originated in Spain, and it is very complete in terms of GPX tracks all over the country. There are often lengthy trail descriptions and photos that give you an idea of the terrain. We have found it well worth the cost of subscribing to Premium ($10/yr; $5/qtr).
 
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