LIVE from the Camino Via de la Plata January 2023

[Karin309]

Hi Karin
The link in my msg above to Gronze …shows 27euros for single. They are private rooms.
Are you using gronze.com ? (Or checking it for accomm suggestions and approx prices ?). Note: for others thinking of staying here - best idea is to phone them and ask for the pilgrim rate.

A few people walked from the arch the day I stopped at Hostal Asturias ….. they climbed through fences etc. Going with the lift is good. You continue walking on the main road in the morning enroute to meet up with the camino.

I’m wishing myself back there on Vdlp as I type ❤️❤️❤️

Buen camino.

I did not use Gronze but anyway I heard from another pilgrim it's really a truckers hostal and that did not atrackt me much. And my legs were good, the route beautiful and so I kept walking. I did not go over the road.. I hate that. Yes the path was challenging at times but it was doable and actually I had a lot of fun trying to keep my feet dry 🤣👌

 

[Karin309]

Day 16 Via de la Plata, from Carcaboso to Aldeanueva del Camino, 38.9km.

I hit the street early this morning for this long stage. The morning started almost windless, and I must say that this stage is my favorite so far 🤩👌.

The whole day was actually beautiful, although the terrain was quite challenging due to the many rivers, streams, mud baths and flooded lawns that I had to cross. I got really wet feet a few times, but I had a lot of fun choosing the driest paths (and then falling through the mud anyway 🤣)
But I walked quite easely and when after 26km there was the possibility to go 2km from the route to a truckers hostel, I didn't feel like stopping yet...Moreover, I had heard mixed reports about that hostel, and 11km further on, I would find a very good pilgrim's hostel waiting, so I had set my mind on that.
Walking the path today emptied my head in a wonderful rhythm. I actually enjoy walking by myself. Unfortunately I did have a blister (on the top of my foot 🤣), pierced and taped it, gave me no real problems.
Again a chilly wind in the afternoon, and one very turbulent river that was impossible to cross safely. Fortunately, the detour was only a few hundred meters extra 😊👌
On arrival at the albergue I was pleasantly surprised by Sarah, a German pilgrim who has been on the road for a week longer than I have and who takes it a lot slower. And she has to because her feet are covered in blisters 😯
Super nice to have company again and the alberge is also superb, with heating, a nice bed and a good shower. And even a breakfast 😋☺️Tomorrow morning I'm going to tape Sarah's blisters first, I don't know if we'll walk together, but we'll end up in the same albergue again, and that's a nice prospect 🤩🙏
Tomorrow a relatively short stage, about 21km. To be continued...

 

[Grousedoctor]

Hey Karin, Another great description or your day along with great pics. But, when I saw the one of your feet, I broke into a big smile and had to pass along one of my photos possibly from the same muddy path. Love your posts!

 

[Corned Beef]

There's a Via Verde from Aldeanueva to Bejar as an alternative to more direct official route.

Aldeanueva del Camino - Valle del Ambroz

This municipality is located in the middle of the valley. Its name derives from the Roman road whose layout nowadays follows its main street. It has very well preserved remains and a Roman bridge. This municipality is located in the middle of the valley. Its name derives from the Roman road...

visitambroz.es

Route (in reverse)

Vía Verde Ruta de la Plata - Béjar- Aldeanueva del Camino

Ruta Vía Verde Ruta de la Plata - Béjar- Aldeanueva del Camino de Mountain Bike en La Estación, Castilla y León (España). Descarga el track GPS y sigue el recorrido del itinerario del sendero desde un mapa. Perfecta para iniciarse en las Vías Verdes y Eurovelos.

es.wikiloc.com

 

[Karin309]

Day 17 Via de la Plata, from Aldeanueva del Camino to La Calzada de Bejar, 24.5km.

I took it easy this morning, had breakfast in nice company this time 😊👌, and also taped some blisters on Sarah's feet.
The first 10 km were mainly on the road, I don't find that very pleasant walking with all the traffic, but the view of the mountains made up for it. It was nice to walk in company after so many days of solitude and we also had about the same pace.
Conversations that immediately went into depth, the sun on our face, and so we soon entered the first (and only) village where we could do some shopping for tonight and tomorrow's stage.
We also had a nice encounter with a truck driver who was walking his dog, but Fifi was apparently so impressed with two oncoming pilgrims that he took off like a spear. The poor truck driver followed in his wake, of course...uphill 🤣🤣🤣
A little later during a coffee stop at a gas station we saw him again, with our brave Fifi in the truck 😁
After shopping our backpacks were considerably heavier, and although the route became more and more beautiful, I had a hard time today. It was very cold, and of course the wind was again pretty challenging. Anyway, I was happy to finally arrive at the albergue, which is run by one of the few inhabitants of this deserted village. A sandwich, a can of fish and cookies, is my menu for tonight 👌
Tomorrow a stage of 20 km awaits us, but with a strong wind from the east, the wind chill will be around -6 degrees when we leave.
🥶🥶🥶🥶🥶🥶🥶🥶🥶🥶🥶🥶🥶🥶

To be continued...

 

[Karin309]

Dont know why but cannot get the photos to upload...

 

[OzAnnie]

Dont know why but cannot get the photos to upload...

But I still believe you!! (that it’s very very cold 🥶🥶🥶🥶)
Your pack tomorrow should be light ?? As you’ll probably be wearing a lot of your warm gear. 🥶🥶

Meal situation sounds a bit meagre though - something warm would go down well.
Buen camino

 

[Robo]

This is great to hear — it sounds like some official organization has decided to take the arrows off that road. Since it was a Saturday when you walked, @Karin309, you would have been lucky to avoid the M-F horror of a continuous stream of workers coming towards Cáceres at high speeds, with a few trucks thrown in for fun. It is really a very dangerous stretch, probably in the top 3-4 most dangerous stretches I’ve experienced in many years of walking caminos. People on the forum have been talking about this for years, and I think the route you took is described in this thread.

I am enjoying your posts very much. The weather looks great, for now at least!

Hoping the app developers will remove the highway alternative! Buen camino, Laurie

How far does the 'dangerous' road bit extend?
Is it all the way to Cañaveral?

 

[Kanga]

@Robo it is the road between Cáceres and Casar de Cáceres, and the dangerous bit is about 3km. About 30 minutes of walking fast. And we all walk this stretch fast! Punctuated by squeezing up against guard rails and teetering on a narrow verge.

 

[Karin309]

How far does the 'dangerous' road bit extend?
Is it all the way to Cañaveral?

The detour is not much longer but a very tough climb though. But the scenery is well worth it, it's fantastic!! And much more safe then the road...

 

[Karin309]

Yesterdays photos 👌

 

[Karin309]

Resumé of today; Day 18 Via de la Plata, from Calzada de Bejar to Fuenterroble de Salvantierra, 21.6km

Another beautiful but very cold day, which unfortunately started with a Bell pain. During breakfast Sarah gave me a bottle of hot water in a towel to put against my belly, so sweet that I almost cried. 😍
The route was beautiful again today, alternating between roads and paths, no major obstacles and most of the mud was frozen.
One challenging crossing, but fortunately we kept the feet dry.
The Camino provides, and I am so grateful to have met Sarah. We had intense conversations interspersed with good humor and lots of laughter... Exactly what I need now, I'm tired, I'm ready for my well-deserved break in Salamanca and the last stretch to get there weighs heavily, but together we are supporting eachother and we have a lot of fun and that's gold.❤️😊🙏
The albergue here... we don't know... Kind of creepy, religious fanatics,freezing cold (obviously), although the owner has now lit the wood stove but it is leaking smoke, which triggers my heart ailment. Anyway, we're glad we're here with the two of us...Imagining all kinds of horrormovies which could be made here 🤣
Tomorrow another tough day of 30 km ahead!

 

[WanderingNotLost]

Karin,
Truly enjoying your words and pictures. Clearly you are special. Thank you.

 

[Robo]

Resumé of today; Day 18 Via de la Plata, from Calzada de Bejar to Fuenterroble de Salvantierra, 21.6km

The alberge here... we don't know... Kind of creepy, religious fanatics,freezing cold (obviously), although the owner has now lit the wood stove but it is leaking smoke, which triggers my heart ailment. Anyway, we're glad we're here with the two of us...Imagining all kinds of horrormovies which could be made here 🤣
Tomorrow another tough day of 30 km ahead!

Isn't that the Albergue run by Don Blas?
It always seemed so popular

Loving your posts !

 

[george.g]

“Creepy religious fanatics “ Staff must have changed since I was there in last October !!
You did notice that the albergue is a parochial donationativo?
For a lot of perigrinos me included, this albergue and its welcome was a highlight of our Camino.
Different strokes for different folks, I guess.

 

[Karin309]

Ok guys, let me clarify myself here.
I write this blog about my camino from how I experience it, which means that this will always be subjective. So yes, Sarah and I felt a bit overwhelmed by the overload of religious statues, paintings, writings and so on, everywhere we could look, in this very cold and empty place. For except for the owners, we were the only people there. Yes we knew it is a parochial donativo, but we did experience it at the moment as overwhelming and a bit creepy. The owner might just have had a bad day, for he was really not friendly.
Anyway, that this place can be a very special and sacred experience in a different time a year with lots of pilgrims and livelyhood around, I can imagine AND I am happy to hear that!
But apart from our, of course non-objective experience, there is this fact that now, in winter, they are doing something really dangerous.
For everyone, sleeping in a room filled with smoke due to a leaking firestove is funest. For me personally; I have heartdisease and my coronairy arteries start cramping when breathing in that much smoke. It's accutely dangerous to me, but also as a former firefighter I KNOW its very unhealthy for anyone to breath in that smoke and the situation is not safe. I tried to communicate that with the owner, but he just put in more wood and told me to even close the window. Which I did not. So after a sleepless night breathing in smoke and laying in the freezing breeze of an open window, I had to walk all day with chestpains and my pilgrimfriend has problems with her breathing due to last night. But I guess when the weather is warm enough to stay there without using the stove, it is ok..

 

[Trishb]

Wow Karen, your posts have all been so positive and encouraging. I am sorry you were almost apologising for your previous reflection about your stay. I am grateful for you input and will not stay there when I continue my Via

 

[nycwalking]

Ok guys, let me clarify myself here.
I write this blog about my camino from how I experience it, which means that this will always be subjective. So yes, Sarah and I felt a bit overwhelmed by the overload of religious statues, paintings, writings and so on, everywhere we could look, in this very cold and empty place. For except for the owners, we were the only people there. Yes we knew it is a parochial donativo, but we did experience it at the moment as overwhelming and a bit creepy. The owner might just have had a bad day, for he was really not friendly.
Anyway, that this place can be a very special and sacred experience in a different time a year with lots of pilgrims and livelyhood around, I can imagine AND I am happy to hear that!
But apart from our, of course non-objective experience, there is this fact that now, in winter, they are doing something really dangerous.
For everyone, sleeping in a room filled with smoke due to a leaking firestove is funest. For me personally; I have heartdisease and my coronairy arteries start cramping when breathing in that much smoke. It's accutely dangerous to me, but also as a former firefighter I KNOW its very unhealthy for anyone to breath in that smoke and the situation is not safe. I tried to communicate that with the owner, but he just put in more wood and told me to even close the window. Which I did not. So after a sleepless night breathing in smoke and laying in the freezing breeze of an open window, I had to walk all day with chestpains and my pilgrimfriend has problems with her breathing due to last night. But I guess when the weather is warm enough to stay there without using the stove, it is ok..

Do keep posting: good, bad, or otherwise.

Really enjoying walking vicariously alongside you.

Buen camino.

 

[Karin309]

Day 19 Via de la Plata, from Fuenterroble de Salvatierra to San Pedro de Rozados, 28.6km.
My worst day since I started, unfortunately. After a sleepless night in a dormitory with a leaking wood stove, I got out of bed broke and with chest pain. My pilgrim friend Sarah was not in much better shape, she mainly suffered from her respiratory tract.
And cold, it was REALLY COLD!
To our surprise, when we left, we were suddenly pointed into the kitchen by a volunteer (we didn't even know he was there), and we were offered breakfast with toast, fried egg and coffee. A big surprise for us and he was very friendly, while we actually had not been able to have a connection at all with the owner yesterday. Maybe he was having a bad day..🤷
Anyway I was happy to resume the trip and breathe fresh air again, but my heart was already triggered and it didn't get any better during the day. I needed a lot of breaks, unlike Sarah who cooled down too much because of it. So after my first break I walked alone for the rest of the trip, hoping that my physical complaints would remain manageable.
So a beautiful route again, a big climb though and a big descent, but doable, although the last part on the road was tough and exhausting.
When my body doesn't cooperate it's easy to sink into negative thoughts and be angry with myself, my body and the whole world 🙃, and oh yes sorry, having your period doesn't help with that either... 🙄😝
Anyway, with a pep talk from my lover and some self-reflection you can go a long way, so in the end it was an educational day on the camino.
Now in a hotel where I share the room with Sarah, we have heating, a hot shower and later a real hot meal, menu del dia..😋
The chest pain subsides a bit and I know that with rest and fresh air this will probably be over in a few days.
Tomorrow another stage of 25km to Salamanca, and then... BREAK!!!
Enjoying three days with my partner 🥰🥰🥰
To be continued...

 

[Grousedoctor]

I look forward daily to hearing about your Camino and seeing the pics. They bring back such fond memories. It also reinforces that by bike one travels much too quickly missing so much of what you are experiencing. Biking the Camino was great, but there are certain experiences that just don’t happen compared to when one is walking.

Couldn’t agree with you more about the leaky fireplace. Any of us with compromising physical conditions would not have enjoyed it any more than you did. Glad you’re out of there.

Enjoy Salamanca. It’s a great city for a break.

 

[BombayBill]

Wow from your pictures it looks really cold. Your perseverance is admirable! Don't blame yourself when you've endured a terrible sleep in a room with bad air. You don't need to risk your health. You deserve a warm hotel room.

 

[peregrinosencillo]

As unpleasant as the cold may be, extreme heat can be more unpleasant.

I'm loving your authentic reaction the this incredible adventure. Buen camino!

 

[J Willhaus]

Hang in there! Hope the break will replenish your spirit.

 

[camino07]

“Creepy religious fanatics “ Staff must have changed since I was there in last October !!
You did notice that the albergue is a parochial donationativo?
For a lot of perigrinos me included, this albergue and its welcome was a highlight of our Camino.
Different strokes for different folks, I guess.

Loved that Albergue, had a tiny cabin in the yard all to myself. Guided tour of the church was great too.

 

[Karin309]

Loved that Albergue, had a tiny cabin in the yard all to myself. Guided tour of the church was great too.

I explained myself about this in a post above. Anyway I am happy you had a different experience!

 

[camino07]

Just read your posts. Must be awful this time of year. Such a long, long day to San Pedro I found.
Hope your chest is ok now. Enjoying your posts.

 

[Karin309]

Resumé (Yesterday) Day 20 Via de la Plata, from San Pedro de Rozados to Salamanca, 26,6km.

We got up early and had a strong pace heading towards Salamanca. It was very cold, for a change 🥶🥴😉.
The route was uninspiring, but we enjoyed intense and lively conversations with eachother and so the morning miles steadily disappeared...
Too cold to take a break and frankly...too much pepper in my ass 🤣 (that is a saying in Dutch, not sure if it means anything in English 😝)
Salamanca waited with my boyfriend, so no trouble at all to race those 26 km away.
The reunion was everything I hoped for 🥰🥰🥰, emotional, warm, joyfull, familiar. We had a nice drink with the three of us and then Sarah left for her studio, and we to our luxury hotel...
Wow... what a delight, a warm room, hot shower, soft towel, wonderful bed... and fantastic company ❤️👌🥰
Everything I have every day at home in France, but which now, after three weeks of challenges and harsh conditions, seems so special to me... It makes me realize that nothing is to be taken for granted, and that it is important for me to realize how beautiful and rich my life is nowadays❤️🙏🙏❤️
Now, 3 full days break and joy together in this beautiful city. Tonight we will have a delicious dinner with Sarah, and tomorrow and Tuesday we will look around in the city and of course do some shopping at Decathlon before the tour continues on Wednesday.
Then I will of course continue to write about my experiences! For now; pause 🤩🥰❤️👌

 

[TomSawyer]

Day 16 Via de la Plata, from Carcaboso to Aldeanueva del Camino, 38.9km.

I hit the street early this morning for this long stage. The morning started almost windless, and I must say that this stage is my favorite so far 🤩👌.

The whole day was actually beautiful, although the terrain was quite challenging due to the many rivers, streams, mud baths and flooded lawns that I had to cross. I got really wet feet a few times, but I had a lot of fun choosing the driest paths (and then falling through the mud anyway 🤣)
But I walked quite easely and when after 26km there was the possibility to go 2km from the route to a truckers hostel, I didn't feel like stopping yet...Moreover, I had heard mixed reports about that hostel, and 11km further on, I would find a very good pilgrim's hostel waiting, so I had set my mind on that.
Walking the path today emptied my head in a wonderful rhythm. I actually enjoy walking by myself. Unfortunately I did have a blister (on the top of my foot 🤣), pierced and taped it, gave me no real problems.
Again a chilly wind in the afternoon, and one very turbulent river that was impossible to cross safely. Fortunately, the detour was only a few hundred meters extra 😊👌
On arrival at the alberge I was pleasantly surprised by Sarah, a German pilgrim who has been on the road for a week longer than I have and who takes it a lot slower. And she has to because her feet are covered in blisters 😯
Super nice to have company again and the alberge is also superb, with heating, a nice bed and a good shower. And even a breakfast 😋☺️Tomorrow morning I'm going to tape Sarah's blisters first, I don't know if we'll walk together, but we'll end up in the same alberge again, and that's a nice prospect 🤩🙏
Tomorrow a relatively short stage, about 21km. To be continued...

I am staying at the "truckers" hostel (Hostal Asturias) tonight, with two other pilgrims.
We were picked up at the Arco de Caparra and driven to the hostal. It is 25 for a single room with heating, hot shower, internet. The family owning the hostal is really nice and welcoming. It is absolutely recommended. We had a few tapas and they were excellent. Don't know who would leave bad reviews of this place tbh. Ultreia!

 

[Pilger Franz]

It makes me realize that nothing is to be taken for granted, and that it is important for me to realize how beautiful and rich my life is nowadays

As a pilgrim I fully agree

 

[Karin309]

Resumé of the last days....Day 21/22/23 Via de la Plata, break in Salamanca 🥰🤩
Together Axx and I enjoyed this beautiful city and each other. I felt very spoiled, with delicious food, beautiful sightseeings, super comfortable hotel, and first and foremost excellent company 🥰We also spend some nice times with Sarah and made plans for a yoga retreat at the albergue in France.
Unfortunately I caught a nasty cold, so I'm not very physically fit 🥴. But so happy and grateful for the past few days that I resumed my hike today in great spirit.
Because of my cold, I chose to cut the original stage in half, and that also allowed us to take it easy this morning ❤️👌and still have a nice breakfast together.
Then there was really the time to say goodbye, and I also leave Sarah behind for now, she will stay one day longer in Salamanca.

Day 24, from Salamanca to Calzada de Valdunciel, 16.6km.
"On my own again", bright sun, and the first kilometers to get out of Salamanca a very boring and industrial route. Followed by a sandy path through farmland, and after 16 km I reached my destination. Fortunately, because I really don't feel fit.
I stay in the municipal, a nice place with heating and a functional kitchen. After the king-size bed, a bunk bed will take some adjusting again 😝, but I am so tired and snotty that I will probably sleep. I am (again) the only one here and I had hoped for that, so at least I can't infect anyone.
Tomorrow a longer stage, about 21 km...

 

[peregrina2000]

Oh, I loved that little hobbit albergue! I’m hoping you found the restaurant on the national highway about a km from the village. It has a great menú del día, or at least it did 10 years ago. 😁

 

[Karin309]

Resumé of today; Day 25 Via de la Plata, from Calzada de Valdunciel to El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino, 20.9km.
What a wonderful day again, with a very fresh start of minus 3 degrees 🥶🥶🥶 Despite my cold, I had a relatively good walk, I took it slowly with lots of breaks. Which fortunately was comfortable to do so, despite the cold there was no wind and in the full sun it was warm enough to take breaks ☺️👌
Funny thing is that while walking I hardly coughed, but when I paused I was coughing my lungs out 🤧🤧🤧🤧🤧🤧🤧🤧

So I just need keep going I guess 🤪

Today I pondered a lot about the upcoming season in the albergue and all the (new) plans we have, mainly to organize a yoga retreat (for pilgrims). And how that seems to be taking shape now because Sarah turns out to be a yoga instructor 😊👌. Super nice prospects and so the kilometers just kinda disappeared...
On arrival at the albergue(of course as the only guest) I was warmly welcomed and had a wonderfully hot (and long 😝)shower. Yet another challenge...The local supermarket happened to be closed on Thursdays, as well as the restaurant. I knew I needed a solution, especially considering tomorrow's long stage. A local cafe is open, but I'm hesitant to sit there with my cough and runny nose amongst the locals...
So I Googled and found a gas station a bit further away, at walking-distance. Anyway, by this stage I wonder what "walking-distance" means to me, since I feel I could walk around the world by now 🤣.

So anyway, they have some snacks and that's about it..
Tonight's dinner; peanuts with coke and chocolate for dessert 😛. Well ... I have eaten so luxurious and healthy in Salamanca, this is okay for once 👌
I also was able to buy some snacks for tomorrow on the way, and luckily I still carried some yoghurt, cheese and proteïnebars. Much needed because I have about 32 km ahead of me. A long stage in combination with a cold, but I don't like the only option "in between" at 13km from here, so 32km it is... 🤷
Anyway, tomorrow the camino often runs parallel to a motorway with a few hundred meters of farmland in between, so if I really feel too poorly I can always find the motorway and hitchhike a bit 😊👌
But with once again beautiful weather forecasts I think it will be ok...

 

[Paul-CH]

Hi Karin I wish you all the best for tomorrow morning. It will be another cold start. But I think you are used to it already. Buon camino 😎

 

[J Willhaus]

Resumé of today; Day 25 Via de la Plata, from Calzada de Valdunciel to El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino, 20.9km.
What a wonderful day again, with a very fresh start of minus 3 degrees 🥶🥶🥶 Despite my cold, I had a relatively good walk, I took it slowly with lots of breaks. Which fortunately was comfortable to do so, despite the cold there was no wind and in the full sun it was warm enough to take breaks ☺️👌
Funny thing is that while walking I hardly coughed, but when I paused I was coughing my lungs out 🤧🤧🤧🤧🤧🤧🤧🤧

So I just need keep going I guess 🤪

Today I pondered a lot about the upcoming season in the alberge and all the (new) plans we have, mainly to organize a yoga retreat (for pilgrims). And how that seems to be taking shape now because Sarah turns out to be a yoga instructor 😊👌. Super nice prospects and so the kilometers just kinda disappeared...
On arrival at the alberge(of course as the only guest) I was warmly welcomed and had a wonderfully hot (and long 😝)shower. Yet another challenge...The local supermarket happened to be closed on Thursdays, as well as the restaurant. I knew I needed a solution, especially considering tomorrow's long stage. A local cafe is open, but I'm hesitant to sit there with my cough and runny nose amongst the locals...
So I Googled and found a gas station a bit further away, at walking-distance. Anyway, by this stage I wonder what "walking-distance" means to me, since I feel I could walk around the world by now 🤣.

So anyway, they have some snacks and that's about it..
Tonight's dinner; peanuts with coke and chocolate for dessert 😛. Well ... I have eaten so luxurious and healthy in Salamanca, this is okay for once 👌
I also was able to buy some snacks for tomorrow on the way, and luckily I still carried some yoghurt, cheese and proteïnebars. Much needed because I have about 32 km ahead of me. A long stage in combination with a cold, but I don't like the only option "in between" at 13km from here, so 32km it is... 🤷
Anyway, tomorrow the camino often runs parallel to a motorway with a few hundred meters of farmland in between, so if I really feel too poorly I can always find the motorway and hitchhike a bit 😊👌
But with once again beautiful weather forecasts I think it will be ok...

Will you make it to Zamora tomorrow? Lovely albergue there. There is a small grocery store nearby past the Plaza Mayor on another Plaza by the indoor city Market building and several bakeries. The kitchen is good at the albergue in Zamora, too. Several restaurants on the Plaza Mayor if you don't want to cook. You may not feel like looking around, but it is a wonderful old walled city. The municipal albergue is built into the wall and next to what used to be a city gate and it is next to one of the older Romanesque churches.

 

[Nomadita]

Resumé of today; Day 25 Via de la Plata, from Calzada de Valdunciel to El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino, 20.9km.
What a wonderful day again, with a very fresh start of minus 3 degrees 🥶🥶🥶 Despite my cold, I had a relatively good walk, I took it slowly with lots of breaks. Which fortunately was comfortable to do so, despite the cold there was no wind and in the full sun it was warm enough to take breaks ☺️👌
Funny thing is that while walking I hardly coughed, but when I paused I was coughing my lungs out 🤧🤧🤧🤧🤧🤧🤧🤧

So I just need keep going I guess 🤪

Today I pondered a lot about the upcoming season in the alberge and all the (new) plans we have, mainly to organize a yoga retreat (for pilgrims). And how that seems to be taking shape now because Sarah turns out to be a yoga instructor 😊👌. Super nice prospects and so the kilometers just kinda disappeared...
On arrival at the alberge(of course as the only guest) I was warmly welcomed and had a wonderfully hot (and long 😝)shower. Yet another challenge...The local supermarket happened to be closed on Thursdays, as well as the restaurant. I knew I needed a solution, especially considering tomorrow's long stage. A local cafe is open, but I'm hesitant to sit there with my cough and runny nose amongst the locals...
So I Googled and found a gas station a bit further away, at walking-distance. Anyway, by this stage I wonder what "walking-distance" means to me, since I feel I could walk around the world by now 🤣.

So anyway, they have some snacks and that's about it..
Tonight's dinner; peanuts with coke and chocolate for dessert 😛. Well ... I have eaten so luxurious and healthy in Salamanca, this is okay for once 👌
I also was able to buy some snacks for tomorrow on the way, and luckily I still carried some yoghurt, cheese and proteïnebars. Much needed because I have about 32 km ahead of me. A long stage in combination with a cold, but I don't like the only option "in between" at 13km from here, so 32km it is... 🤷
Anyway, tomorrow the camino often runs parallel to a motorway with a few hundred meters of farmland in between, so if I really feel too poorly I can always find the motorway and hitchhike a bit 😊👌
But with once again beautiful weather forecasts I think it will be ok...

Hey I'm booking to join the Frances in the Meseta in mid February, any tips on what is needed/must haves for a winter camino? I did it in October last year so very different! It was actually quite warm some days!

 

[Karin309]

Will you make it to Zamora tomorrow? Lovely albergue there. There is a small grocery store nearby past the Plaza Mayor on another Plaza by the indoor city Market building and several bakeries. The kitchen is good at the albergue in Zamora, too. Several restaurants on the Plaza Mayor if you don't want to cook. You may not feel like looking around, but it is a wonderful old walled city. The municipal albergue is built into the wall and next to what used to be a city gate and it is next to one of the older Romanesque churches.

Thank you!!! I did hear already that the municipal is lovely and I already called them. They will be waiting for me tomorrow ❤️👌 I hope to have enough energy left to cook myself, I am quite picky on what I eat 🤣. And considering to stay an extra day in Zamora, depending on how I feel...

 

[Karin309]

Hey I'm booking to join the Frances in the Meseta in mid February, any tips on what is needed/must haves for a winter camino? I did it in October last year so very different! It was actually quite warm some days!

Warm sleeping bag, warm clothes (many layers, I always chose merinowool) and an isolating sit pad. I love the sit pad, keeps my ass dry, warm, it's soft, weighs only 25grams and costed me 10 euros. I use it on every break!!

 

[Pilger Franz]

I love the sit pad, keeps my ass dry, warm, it's soft, weighs only 25grams and costed me 10 euros. I use it on every break!!

Don't forget to give a glance to it after each break! Or tie it to sth. 🙃

 

[Nomadita]

Warm sleeping bag, warm clothes (many layers, I always chose merinowool) and an isolating sit pad. I love the sit pad, keeps my ass dry, warm, it's soft, weighs only 25grams and costed me 10 euros. I use it on every break!!

Thanks!! I would never have thought of a seat pad, great tip!

 

[peregrina2000]

You know Zamora is a beauty of a town, @Karin309. Great place for a rest day, if you think another one is in order so soon. There’s so much to see. If you like Romanesque, you will be in Romanesque heaven. There are more than 20 romanesque churches in town, and they coordinate their schedules so that no more than a handful is closed any day of the week.

My very favorite, the teeny tiny Santiago de los Caballeros is outside the castle walls (leave through the doorway closest to the cathedral). It is the place where El Cid supposedly was knighted after his night of prayer vigil in the church. I can’t think of a better place to sit and contemplate some of the big questions, but also to have fun trying to figure out what the capitals represent, some of which cannot be described on the forum.

And I just checked - you’re in luck, it closes on Monday and Tuesday! It’s open 10-2 and 5-8. I’ve probably been there five or six times and I have never encountered anyone but the caretaker, who always sits quietly in the back in the corner, probably aware of the impact the silence and simplicity might have on people.

Hope you had a good walk today - walking over that bridge into town is pretty awesome!

 

[rscohen]

I will start from Sevilla on Wednesday. I just read every word of your wonderful posts and all of the responses. I've been immersed in the true spirit of the Camino. Thank you all. Buen Camino, Karin

 

[Karin309]

You know Zamora is a beauty of a town, @Karin309. Great place for a rest day, if you think another one is in order so soon. There’s so much to see. If you like Romanesque, you will be in Romanesque heaven. There are more than 20 romanesque churches in town, and they coordinate their schedules so that no more than a handful is closed any day of the week.

My very favorite, the teeny tiny Santiago de los Caballeros is outside the castle walls (leave through the doorway closest to the cathedral). It is the place where El Cid supposedly was knighted after his night of prayer vigil in the church. I can’t think of a better place to sit and contemplate some of the big questions, but also to have fun trying to figure out what the capitals represent, some of which cannot be described on the forum.

And I just checked - you’re in luck, it closes on Monday and Tuesday! It’s open 10-2 and 5-8. I’ve probably been there five or six times and I have never encountered anyone but the caretaker, who always sits quietly in the back in the corner, probably aware of the impact the silence and simplicity might have on people.

Hope you had a good walk today - walking over that bridge into town is pretty awesome!

Wow, thank you very much!! Yes I will take an extra day here, it was a long stage today and I am still struggling with my cold. Gives me a nice opportunity to visit some churches and I will definitely visit the one you recommended ❤️🙏🙏❤️

 

[Karin309]

I will start from Sevilla on Wednesday. I just read every word of your wonderful posts and all of the responses. I've been immersed in the true spirit of the Camino. Thank you all. Buen Camino, Karin

Buen Camino rscohen ❤️🙏🙏❤️

 

[J Willhaus]

A lot of history/lore in Zamora. We were there 2 weeks as hospitaleros and on the last day, I found a book in one of the tourist shops in English which detailed all the historical sites in the town. Of course we bought it and brought it home and found out what we didn't know while we were there.

 

[Karin309]

Day 26 Via de la Plata, from El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino to Zamora, 32.4km.

An early and cold start (minus 4 degrees) for this long stage. Again a beautiful route, especially the first 20km. Beautiful nature, silence, me together with my shadow...
Before I started this camino I was a bit afraid of the solitude... Would I be lonely?? Now I experience the exact opposite, whilst I do walk alone almost every day. I learn to enjoy my own company, and to be okay with whatever is going on inside me; light and darkness. That's one of the reasons I chose this solitude camino in the first place..

And in addition, I experience an enormous connection with "all that is", and even though I may be the only person on the path, with all the life around me I am never alone ❤️🙏🙏❤️
And yes, I also have enough conversation material... I talk to dogs, cats, cows, sheep, pigs, donkeys, horses, lambs and birds. I talk to trees, flowers, the sun, moon, wind and stars...I talk to my shadow, which, with the sun at my back, always stretches out in front of me. Sometimes I wave to my shadow, and she always waves back 🤩. Or I do a dance to loosen up the muscles, or just for fun, and she always dances along...

I also talk to my Samsunghealth bitch, abbreviated "the bitch". I have a love-hate relationship with her. She reports to me every kilometer I've covered, but later in the day she seems to be waiting longer and longer 🤔... She also tells me every kilometer what my current and average speed is. And I can tell you, those techies from Samsung have learned the bitch to condemn and despise 😵‍💫! Because when my average speed drops below 5 km per hour, she sounds really depressed and disappointed. And then I just have to listen to all that from the bitch 🤣🤣🤣
You are reading it already; never a dull moment on my Camino 😄🤩👌
Unfortunately I still have a persistent cough that kept me awake last night, so after today's 32.4 km I decided to take a rest day in Zamora. There are beautiful Romanesque churches to visit here, so it's certainly not a punishment and I have the time.
Tonight I am staying in the municipal, fantastic alberge run by volunteers, heating, kitchen and tomorrow morning a communal breakfast. There are 3 other pilgrims here, 2 cyclists and a French woman walking in the opposite direction.
Tomorrow I will move to a hostel for my second night in Zamora and meet Sarah again 🤩👌
To be continued...

 

[Paul-CH]

Dear Karin, thanks for your interesting story about your relationship with "the bitch". You are hiking with a good speed.
Therefore I have my Garmin, it’s sometimes my only companion on my caminos. The faster I go it’s more talkative.
Have a nice rest day and get rid of the cough. Enjoy Zamora and be together with Sarah again. Buon camino Paul😎