LIVE from the Camino Via de la Plata + Sanabres + Fin/Muxia from Seville (Feb/Mar 2022)

[Pawel]

Hey,

I am starting VdlP this weekend and plan to write ~weekly updates on how it goes along the Way.
Hopefully, later Pilgrims will be able to use that info as I have used e.g. @Yoah 's and others.
This will be my third Camino, after two walks on Frances.

All registrations forms submitted, certificates prepared, only flight check-in left.

--
Pawel

 

[nycwalking]

Hey,

I am starting VdlP this weekend and plan to write ~weekly updates on how it goes along the Way.
Hopefully, later Pilgrims will be able to use that info as I have used e.g. @Yoah 's and others.
This will be my third Camino, after two walks on Frances.

All registrations forms submitted, certificates prepared, only flight check-in left.

--
Pawel

Safe travels.

Looking forward to weekly updates.

 

[GraemeHall]

Looking forward to reading your reports. I'm a couple of months behind you. Buen Camino.

 

[Dave W96]

I will be most interested in you reports as I hope to follow you after Easter.
Buen Camino

 

[lt56ny]

One caveat on my comments. In these Covid times what I experienced may be very different than what you will experience. Just did the VDLP plata. Started in Mid October and finished in Finisterre in December. Your route is almost exactly the same as the one that I planned except I went to Muxia first. It took a little more planning than I did for any other camino. It also was more expensive than any other camino. There is a VDLP camino association office in Sevilla. It is on the Camino and not to hard to find at all. They gave us a little information, but to be honest it wasn't that helpful although the people there were of course super nice. There is also a facebook group that has listings of private albergues/hostels/pensions that are open.

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There were many municipal albergues that were closed and I was forced to sleep in hostels some nights. This made it a little more difficult to meet fellow pilgrims in the evening. There were very few kitchens that were open so again I was forced to eat out at night. In many of the small towns and villages bars/restaurants did not start serving food until 9 or 9:30, which for me was late. I always looked ahead at least two days ahead to make sure I had food for the next day as there were many days it would be a long way until I arrived in a town. If I arrived at my destination I would always shop for my next day's lunch and snacks. When I left it was still very hot in the south and I had to carry 3 liters of water. (That will not be necessary for you in February) When I arrived in Salamanca I had a long chat with the hospitalero. I had described my experience to date and he said it was similar to other pilgrims. He said I could expect more of the same on the Sanabres. Much to my chagrin I decided to walk up to Astorga and finish on the CF. It was not what I wanted to do at all. But after a month of sometimes scrambling to find a place to sleep. Often eating pretty bad dinners and spending way more than I wanted to. I do need to walk on a budget, I decided to go to Astorga. Of course once I got to Astorga the Camino changed radically for me. It was an adjustment as the VDLP and the CF couldn't be more different.
I loved Muxia. I had walked to Finisterre after my first camino and this time walked to Muxia. I like Muxia the town much more. Then it is a really nice walk to Finisterre. I did sleep in Lires to break the Camino up. I stayed at Albergue As Eires. The albergue was closed and I think I had to pay 35 Euros for the pleasure of sleeping in a pretty mediocre hotel room.
Finally have as many resources as you can to find places to sleep.
Gronze.com did the best job of keeping up to date on open/closed albergues. I also used the Buen Camino app and sometimes Camino Ninja. I did also check with the facebook website association.
No app/website is 100% accurate. I always called ahead to make sure the place i was intending to sleep was open.
It was an interesting experience that took awhile to sort out after I was finished.
Buen Camino and enjoy

 

[WisTom]

Buen camino. I did exactly this route - Sevilla to Muxia - starting on Feb 11, 2019. Truly wonderful, although with some closed albergues and long stages even pre-covid. Beautiful scenery and a very distinct experience from the Frances. As I'm currently walking the Via Francigena, I find this a good time of the year to do the pilgrimage routes.

 

[Tom Conklin]

One caveat on my comments. In these Covid times what I experienced may be very different than what you will experience. Just did the VDLP plata. Started in Mid October and finished in Finisterre in December. ...

I am starting next week so this is really helpful. Thanks so much for the tips and cautions.

 

[sicada123]

Hey,

I am starting VdlP this weekend and plan to write ~weekly updates on how it goes along the Way.
Hopefully, later Pilgrims will be able to use that info as I have used e.g. @Yoah 's and others.
This will be my third Camino, after two walks on Frances.

All registrations forms submitted, certificates prepared, only flight check-in left.

--
Pawel

Good luck Pawel. I will be setting out from Seville 7th March. I look forward to your weekly posts.

Buen Camino

Sicada

 

[JennyH94]

Buen Camino Pawel - take joy in every step. I look forward to reading your updates and to hearing about your experiences.
I walk out from Seville on 19 April and hope to see some fellow Forum members as it looks as though there’s going to be quite a few of us setting out around then.
Cheers from Oz -
Jenny

 

[Pawel]

One caveat on my comments. In these Covid times what I experienced may be very different than what you will experience. Just did the VDLP plata. Started in Mid October and finished in Finisterre in December. Your route is almost exactly the same as the one that I planned except I went to Muxia first. It took a little more planning than I did for any other camino. It also was more expensive than any other camino. There is a VDLP camino association office in Sevilla. It is on the Camino and not to hard to find at all. They gave us a little information, but to be honest it wasn't that helpful although the people there were of course super nice. There is also a facebook group that has listings of private albergues/hostels/pensions that are open.

Log into Facebook

Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.

www.facebook.com

There were many municipal albergues that were closed and I was forced to sleep in hostels some nights. This made it a little more difficult to meet fellow pilgrims in the evening. There were very few kitchens that were open so again I was forced to eat out at night. In many of the small towns and villages bars/restaurants did not start serving food until 9 or 9:30, which for me was late. I always looked ahead at least two days ahead to make sure I had food for the next day as there were many days it would be a long way until I arrived in a town. If I arrived at my destination I would always shop for my next day's lunch and snacks. When I left it was still very hot in the south and I had to carry 3 liters of water. (That will not be necessary for you in February) When I arrived in Salamanca I had a long chat with the hospitalero. I had described my experience to date and he said it was similar to other pilgrims. He said I could expect more of the same on the Sanabres. Much to my chagrin I decided to walk up to Astorga and finish on the CF. It was not what I wanted to do at all. But after a month of sometimes scrambling to find a place to sleep. Often eating pretty bad dinners and spending way more than I wanted to. I do need to walk on a budget, I decided to go to Astorga. Of course once I got to Astorga the Camino changed radically for me. It was an adjustment as the VDLP and the CF couldn't be more different.
I loved Muxia. I had walked to Finisterre after my first camino and this time walked to Muxia. I like Muxia the town much more. Then it is a really nice walk to Finisterre. I did sleep in Lires to break the Camino up. I stayed at Albergue As Eires. The albergue was closed and I think I had to pay 35 Euros for the pleasure of sleeping in a pretty mediocre hotel room.
Finally have as many resources as you can to find places to sleep.
Gronze.com did the best job of keeping up to date on open/closed albergues. I also used the Buen Camino app and sometimes Camino Ninja. I did also check with the facebook website association.
No app/website is 100% accurate. I always called ahead to make sure the place i was intending to sleep was open.
It was an interesting experience that took awhile to sort out after I was finished.
Buen Camino and enjoy

Thank You and others as well!

I use @geraldkelly ' app and guide as well.as gronze, hospitaleros' and other pilgrims' knowledge.
Funny that Your way of planning and executing is very similar. Have thoroughly read and planned, checked and corrected before departure what is open and what closed. Which stage to start in the morning etc.
However fiesta de 28 Febrero in Andalusia was a surprise Anyway its planning instead of rigid plan, with changes and flexibility.

 

[Pawel]

CdS VdlP notes

I am getting carried away and will post an update earlier. Hopefully some notes will be of use.
I will be more concise later.

2022-02-25

I had booked a double room in Triana Backpackers. That was really two beds everything one might need. It was ok, a little bit noisy on Friday's evening. There was to be a communal breakfast from 7 till 11.

Incoming registration form was checked at the airport. I could only check-in online after I had uploaded all forms (vaccination certificate, German and Spanish forms - flying with Lufthansa).

Facemask use inside is a standard.


2022-02-26

Went from TB to the Cathedral and started walking along the Camino. It was dark after 7, when I started, but till I got out of Seville it was already after dawn. Light rain for two hours. Met two pilgrims after crossing Guadalquivir, on the right path along the river. We just exchanged hellos, as they were adjusting their rain gear near the pathway. Rain stopped in Santiponce and later layering and delayering worked well during the whole day.

In Guillena there were many people outside and some cafes along the main road (not along Camino route). Stopped for refill and cafe con leche y tostadas.

It was dry and only one unpassable place was *before* Guillena with a large puddle across the road (there are farm buildings with tower ahead on the right). However there was a steel beam thrown over the stream under the trees on the right side.

In Castiblanco I stayed at Casa Salvadora - and highly recommend it. Very friendly hospitalera. Also dinner at rincon del Beni was good.

There were five of us altogether in an albergue: two from Spain, one from Belgium (cycling south), one from Germany and me. It was nice to talk in Spanish in the evening.

Next day, on Sunday, the supermarket in Almaden was closed, so I bought a few more things.
42 km, quite a nice day.


2022-02-27

Short, quiet and lonely walk today. With just family with horses I met in Parque Natural and a Spanish pair on the last ascent. Clouds, sun, no rain.

Stayed in a municipal albergue in Almaden de la Plata. Very empty. La Muralla makes good food. There were eight of us in the albergue, however at least 5 more pilgrims were dining in La Muralla.

Sevillanos were having a bank holiday on Monday so there were quite a few walking along some sections of the Via. They were going home on Monday afternoon (3 of those 8 pilgrims).
28 km, short and sweet with nice scenery. In the Parque.


2022-02-28

It is light enough around 7:30 to walk without a light source. So this is my starting hour.

Preparing all stuff in the evening and just leaving the dormitory quietly in the morning to finish packing far from sleeping people.

Nice views up to El Real de la Jara and then some more. Only met Antonio talking with another pilgrim heading south before the ascent in the middle of the section to El Real, who left earlier. This stage has perfect cafe and refill places at *Real* (14) and Complejo Leo (26).

Municipal albergue in Monesterio is open, there is a note and phone number to hospitalera Carmen (who listens to classical music on the loudspeakers). Twin double rooms with bathroom. Very well equipped albergue.
There were two bicigrinos from Chile and Local Spanish runner shortly after. We sat together in the kitchen with the fireplace burning.
35 km with a chilly layered morning and sunny warm rest of the day. Shade under the trees after Complejo Leo was welcome.

Note that 28th was not a bank holiday in Extremadura.


So far all well marked.

Tomorrow to Calzadilla de los Barros, as i want to walk long section from Villafranca to Torremejia in the morning on Thursday.

 

[Onebigrooster]

Good to read your live updates. I haven't been on my first Camino yet and this gives me a feel for what to expect. Better then any info of people past Caminos. Thanks.

 

[Sunopo]

CdS VdlP notes

I am getting carried away and will post an update earlier. Hopefully some notes will be of use.
I will be more concise later.

2022-02-25

I had booked a double room in Triana Backpackers. That was really two beds everything one might need. It was ok, a little bit noisy on Friday's evening. There was to be a communal breakfast from 7 till 11.

Incoming registration form was checked at the airport. I could only check-in online after I had uploaded all forms (vaccination certificate, German and Spanish forms - flying with Lufthansa).

Facemask use inside is a standard.


2022-02-26

Went from TB to the Cathedral and started walking along the Camino. It was dark after 7, when I started, but till I got out of Seville it was already after dawn. Light rain for two hours. Met two pilgrims after crossing Guadalquivir, on the right path along the river. We just exchanged hellos, as they were adjusting their rain gear near the pathway. Rain stopped in Santiponce and later layering and delayering worked well during the whole day.

In Guillena there were many people outside and some cafes along the main road (not along Camino route). Stopped for refill and cafe con leche y tostadas.

It was dry and only one unpassable place was *before* Guillena with a large puddle across the road (there are farm buildings with tower ahead on the right). However there was a steel beam thrown over the stream under the trees on the right side.

In Castiblanco I stayed at Casa Salvadora - and highly recommend it. Very friendly hospitalera. Also dinner at rincon del Beni was good.

There were five of us altogether in an albergue: two from Spain, one from Belgium (cycling south), one from Germany and me. It was nice to talk in Spanish in the evening.

Next day, on Sunday, the supermarket in Almaden was closed, so I bought a few more things.
42 km, quite a nice day.


2022-02-27

Short, quiet and lonely walk today. With just family with horses I met in Parque Natural and a Spanish pair on the last ascent. Clouds, sun, no rain.

Stayed in a municipal albergue in Almaden de la Plata. Very empty. La Muralla makes good food. There were eight of us in the albergue, however at least 5 more pilgrims were dining in La Muralla.

Sevillanos were having a bank holiday on Monday so there were quite a few walking along some sections of the Via. They were going home on Monday afternoon (3 of those 8 pilgrims).
28 km, short and sweet with nice scenery. In the Parque.


2022-02-28

It is light enough around 7:30 to walk without a light source. So this is my starting hour.

Preparing all stuff in the evening and just leaving the dormitory quietly in the morning to finish packing far from sleeping people.

Nice views up to El Real de la Jara and then some more. Only met Antonio talking with another pilgrim heading south before the ascent in the middle of the section to El Real, who left earlier. This stage has perfect cafe and refill places at *Real* (14) and Complejo Leo (26).

Municipal albergue in Monesterio is open, there is a note and phone number to hospitalera Carmen (who listens to classical music on the loudspeakers). Twin double rooms with bathroom. Very well equipped albergue.
There were two bicigrinos from Chile and Local Spanish runner shortly after. We sat together in the kitchen with the fireplace burning.
35 km with a chilly layered morning and sunny warm rest of the day. Shade under the trees after Complejo Leo was welcome.

Note that 28th was not a bank holiday in Extremadura.


So far all well marked.

Tomorrow to Calzadilla de los Barros, as i want to walk long section from Villafranca to Torremejia in the morning on Thursday.

Thank you for posting. Will restart my VdlP from Casar de Casares on March 10 but looks like you are speeding ahead so you may have overtaken me already by then. Buen Camino!

 

[Dikabi]

CdS VdlP notes

I am getting carried away and will post an update earlier. Hopefully some notes will be of use.
I will be more concise later.

2022-02-25

I had booked a double room in Triana Backpackers. That was really two beds everything one might need. It was ok, a little bit noisy on Friday's evening. There was to be a communal breakfast from 7 till 11.

Incoming registration form was checked at the airport. I could only check-in online after I had uploaded all forms (vaccination certificate, German and Spanish forms - flying with Lufthansa).

Facemask use inside is a standard.


2022-02-26

Went from TB to the Cathedral and started walking along the Camino. It was dark after 7, when I started, but till I got out of Seville it was already after dawn. Light rain for two hours. Met two pilgrims after crossing Guadalquivir, on the right path along the river. We just exchanged hellos, as they were adjusting their rain gear near the pathway. Rain stopped in Santiponce and later layering and delayering worked well during the whole day.

In Guillena there were many people outside and some cafes along the main road (not along Camino route). Stopped for refill and cafe con leche y tostadas.

It was dry and only one unpassable place was *before* Guillena with a large puddle across the road (there are farm buildings with tower ahead on the right). However there was a steel beam thrown over the stream under the trees on the right side.

In Castiblanco I stayed at Casa Salvadora - and highly recommend it. Very friendly hospitalera. Also dinner at rincon del Beni was good.

There were five of us altogether in an albergue: two from Spain, one from Belgium (cycling south), one from Germany and me. It was nice to talk in Spanish in the evening.

Next day, on Sunday, the supermarket in Almaden was closed, so I bought a few more things.
42 km, quite a nice day.


2022-02-27

Short, quiet and lonely walk today. With just family with horses I met in Parque Natural and a Spanish pair on the last ascent. Clouds, sun, no rain.

Stayed in a municipal albergue in Almaden de la Plata. Very empty. La Muralla makes good food. There were eight of us in the albergue, however at least 5 more pilgrims were dining in La Muralla.

Sevillanos were having a bank holiday on Monday so there were quite a few walking along some sections of the Via. They were going home on Monday afternoon (3 of those 8 pilgrims).
28 km, short and sweet with nice scenery. In the Parque.


2022-02-28

It is light enough around 7:30 to walk without a light source. So this is my starting hour.

Preparing all stuff in the evening and just leaving the dormitory quietly in the morning to finish packing far from sleeping people.

Nice views up to El Real de la Jara and then some more. Only met Antonio talking with another pilgrim heading south before the ascent in the middle of the section to El Real, who left earlier. This stage has perfect cafe and refill places at *Real* (14) and Complejo Leo (26).

Municipal albergue in Monesterio is open, there is a note and phone number to hospitalera Carmen (who listens to classical music on the loudspeakers). Twin double rooms with bathroom. Very well equipped albergue.
There were two bicigrinos from Chile and Local Spanish runner shortly after. We sat together in the kitchen with the fireplace burning.
35 km with a chilly layered morning and sunny warm rest of the day. Shade under the trees after Complejo Leo was welcome.

Note that 28th was not a bank holiday in Extremadura.


So far all well marked.

Tomorrow to Calzadilla de los Barros, as i want to walk long section from Villafranca to Torremejia in the morning on Thursday.

Thx for these usefull informations Pawel! Starting from Sevilla on March 9th. It is very nice to hear from a pilgrim ahead, I will take a close look to your postings. Safe Travels!

 

[Tom Conklin]

Let me add my thanks as well! Thanks, as well. Starting Friday.

 

[GraemeHall]

Let me add my thanks as well! Thanks, as well. Starting Friday.

Lucky you. I'm still about 8 weeks away from setting out.

 

[Pawel]

Few notes for the weekend

2022-03-01

Warm morning - I could remove puffy after less than an hour and powerstretch shirt after about one more. Open country with a lot of pastures and crops. Therefore the sun can reach You early. Gronze says that this stage is monotonous, well I like that.
Met four English speaking older ladies shortly after start.
There was only one ambiguity: after the sign/stand saying "see you soon" (see picture) by Monesterio, less than two hours of walking and behind a gate, there was a fork with stone cubes with arcs on the left and arrows on the right road. I followed arrows, as suggested in the guide.
Coffee break in Fuente de Cantos in a cafe near church. For the night I went to Calzadilla and stayed in Los Rodriguez - a good few hundred meters of the route, a very busy restaurant downstairs.

28 km. Pleasant walk.


2022-03-02

Chilly and cloudy morning. Sun made it through the clouds around 10 am. For a moment. Then came back in full shine after Los Santos. Good weather for walking. Possible stops at 14, 19, 23 km. I stopped for coffee in Zafra and grabbed 0% in Los Santos. Almazara is off the route, so no real stopover to grab something. I took a wrong turn under the highway and went along the railway. Came back and went across it and further on.
As the sun shines from right then rear to left I have to take better care of my calves.
Chose Albergue Extrenatura and called it after Zafra. Hospialero explained what and where. There was no one there anyway.

39 km through the open country. Pilgrimless day although hospitalero said that there Forecast shows rain for tomorrow's single shot to Torremejia.


2022-03-03

Chilly and cloudy morning. Open country again with a lot of low cut trees (wine?). From about 10 km, where the long straight road towards Torremejia starts, roadworks began and lasted for about 12 km until the last crossroad. The road was a mix of stones and sand inconvenient to walk on. Some parts were already leveled, others were being levelled by roller and bulldozer, the rest was being grinded in preparation. It may be over when You walk.
Rain about 1hr before the village. It turned the road into sticky mud. After going under the rail turn right and climb onto the slope. Do not go through the riverbed. Albergue Rojo in Torremejia was closed and no one picked up the phone. Visit in Rojo bar on the main street solved that. There came later a fellow pilgrim from Sweden. We had nice talks. There were also two other in another hostel.

27 km. Short but not easy day (road, rain, mud).


2022-03-04

Exchanged goodbyes with Eva and we went our separate ways. Cold and windy morning. However that weak wind was a blessing later cause it effectively lowered felt temperature throughout the day. It seems to me that after Zafra marking is uneven. With the number of arrows varying from almost none to a lot.
Cafe and shop in Merida, off the route. Again a pleasant walk.
Stayed in Aljucen in Albergue San Andres - ask in the Quiosco el Parque bar for it. It's on the way. Six more Pilgrims were here.


32 km. Short (distance) and long (time) day.

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[Pawel]

Hey, some more below. Hello from Aldeanueva del Camino

2022-03-05

Very cold morning and low temperatures throughout the day due to the clouds. That has its advantages. Gertrude and Herman stopped in el Quiosco, I went on to Alcuescar for noon coffee, where we met again leaving for Aldea del Cano.

Nice views along the way with daisies and cows running free.

Got the key to the Albergue from a Las Vegas restaurant and was there on time to eat dinner before break. Albergue in Aldea is very nice. And empty again. There are two (ok, one working) electric heaters.

Albergue has one key, so whenever you want to go outside, you leave it at the bar. Later bar in the same building was opened for the afternoon and it's operation could be heard through the walls.

If all shops are closed - there is a gas station with a convenient store less than 1 km away.

36 km. With a few stops and detour to Alcuescar.

I do not recall being alone in an Albergue on my past Camino Frances.


2022-03-06

Cold, windy day with ground frost in the morning. Valdesalor and Caceres are ideally placed for breakes. Caceres was quite busy and noisy. Stayed in albergue municipal in Casar de Caceres - got the key from bar El Siglo.

The fan in the toilet next to the wall is very loud. While that in the middle is much quieter. Strange arrangement of space with sanitary installations between spaces with beds. Five pilgrims altogether.

There are two multitiendas open till late hour (googlemaps does not give opening hours) that are well stocked and Chinese bazar.

35 km.


2022-03-07

Warm and cloudy morning. Whole stage to Canaveral without any facilities.

At 10 km farm with dogs. With "Finca Berrueto" name on the gate (got used to opening and closing the gates). Farm buildings and sheeps were on the right side of the Via. One dog that was with them was barking, however there was another on the road that I spotted only after the gate. Dog was large and very close and it was an uncomfortable situation. I backed up and went right along the fence before the gate. Dogs also went right and got busy with something so I could pass. Lady at the farm was alarmed by the noise and from afar shouted that dogs will not do anything

There was one more large dog lying on the road about 1 km further but very peaceful.

At ~15 km there was a roof with a table and benches. After going over the railway. Next one on the hill after the second bridge - over Tagus river / Rio Tajo at ~22 km. Ups and downs after that bridge.

Nice albergue Hostel Canaveral with sth like an animal garden. Four of us + bicigrinos. Restaurante Asador Villa de Canaveral did good food.

33 km. Very nice views of the reservoir (and rail bridges).


2022-03-08

Warm morning. Soft footpath for a large part of the stage. Before Galisteo after a small bridge over a ditch, there is a five way crossroad. Could be ambiguous - take the second right, next to the cube.

Cafe in Galisteo. Nice Roman bridge after Galisteo. On the first roundabout after Galisteo there is a sign "camino" and arrows to the second roundabout are erased or painted over. I went through roundabouts.

Stayed in albergue Senora Elena. Hospitalero is usually after 5pm. Door was open. Three altogether in the albergue.

38 km chased by rainclouds. I have been using more and more paths next to the road recently.


2022-03-09

Warm morning and day. Turned right instead going straight forward about 2 km after Carcaboso (it is described in guides).

In Caparra vending machines are empty and not functioning. I was given water by a lady employed there. She brought a 5 l bottle when I asked about tap water. Anyway - check the opening hours so you can get a refill.

24 km one of the stepping stones was washed away. Small stones were placed inconveniently and all loose were on the other side. After crossing I have put some more (picture). Made a shortcut going over the highway in the direction of Casas de Monte to rejoin Via's branch there.

Albergue Casa de mi Abuela is a very well prepared and kept place.

Shops were closed early, however there is Carrefour about 1 km after the village and is open late.

40 km playing hide and seek with the rain.

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[Tom Conklin]

Pawel, do you know if the albergue in Embalse de Alcantara is open?

 

[Pawel]

Pawel, do you know if the albergue in Embalse de Alcantara is open?

Hey, I passed it - turned right after the bridge.
However the other Pilgrim that I walk with said he went there and it was closed. The same was said by Hospitalera in Casar de Caceres.
Gronze also lists it as closed.

 

[Former member 98118]

Pawel, do you know if the albergue in Embalse de Alcantara is open?

To the best of my knowledge it will not reopen in 2022.

So the only option is to walk Casar de Caceres to Cañaveral. Quite doable in this kind of weather. I even walked from Caceres to Cañaveral once, but I wouldn't recommend it.

 

[peregrina2000]

Pawel, do you know if the albergue in Embalse de Alcantara is open?

I had a Whatsapp conversation with the former hospitalero a couple of weeks ago and he confirmed that it is closed for the foreseeable future. It’s not a covid issue, and he says it’s serious, so my guess is that the plumbing/sewage problems that have plagued this place have never really been fixedl

 

[Pawel]

Side notes before next update:
Nenufar albergue in Valverde de Valdelacasa is closed - there is Municipal.
And Senora Elena in Carcaboso seems to have problems with hot water.
Pedrosillo's municipal on the other hand has issues with electricity.

And some albergues are just cold.

 

[Sunopo]

Side notes before next update:
Nenufar albergue in Valverde de Valdelacasa is closed - there is Municipal.
And Senora Elena in Carcaboso seems to have problems with hot water.
Pedrosillo's municipal on the other hand has issues with electricity.

And some albergues are just cold.

Thanks for info, will be going through those places in a few days.

 

[Pawel]

2022-03-10

One more comment from yesterday - bar Sebas in Adeanueva does great food. Dish of the day - cod with potatoes on Wednesdays - is worth trying.
Short stage to Valverde de Valdelacasa with a stop in Calzada de Bejar for coffee.
Albergue Nenufar in VdV is closed.
Stayed in municipal - a very well equipped place. Get the key and register in the bar.
Bar is… well one of a kind. Food is good and plenty, and the service is strange
31 km. No shops after Banos de Montemayor (not counting gas station).


2022-03-11

Started late and stopped at a local bar. Weather forecasts are a blessing - I could avoid heavy rain by delaying departure. yr.no na windy come handy. Especially the latter with radar live coverage and maps of rain zones etc. You can see where the main clouds/rain zones are.
Very nice path after Fuenterroble.
Stayed in Pedrosillo de los Aires in municipal - ask in the yellow house next to the town hall.
It has some issues with electricity - fuses go out with too high load which means it could be difficult to boil water or use an electric heater. Just wait a moment, press and hold the orange test button and it should work again (there is a "click" sound). Actually the fuse does not disconnect.
There is a "hidden" shop and two open wifis. The village goes to sleep early. Meson Lucia was closed.
Inside the albergue was a problem with cellular network coverage. The Wifi signal was best in the kitchen corner, next to the window.
30 km.


2022-03-12

Early start in freezing temperatures. All was closed in Morille yet. Stopped in Miranda de Azan in Musicarte - their montaditos (~bocadillos were great). No shops in this stage.
To Morille on road the further on mostly on grassy path.
In Salamanca I stayed in Residencia Universitaria Colegio de Cuenca.
I am going to break the section to Zamora into three days instead of two, to wait for two other Pilgrims.

31 km + detour to decathlon.

 

[Pawel]

And some pictures.

View media item 11070
View media item 11072
View media item 11076

 

[Corned Beef]

In Salamanca I stayed in Residencia Universitaria Colegio de Cuenca.

I've tried to book there (before COVID). Is there a number or a website for bookings?

Good luck with the weather going north.

 

[Pawel]

I've tried to book there (before COVID). Is there a number or a website for bookings?

Good luck with the weather going north.

I have found it via booking (we all know which) page.

 

[Corned Beef]

Here is another one

HABITACIONES - Colegio y Hospedería Arzobispo Fonseca

colegiofonseca.usal.es

 

[Pawel]

Hey,

For all walking in the next few days stage from El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino to Zamora and planning coffee break in San Marcial's El Cruce bar, here are this week's opening hours.
NB that today owner opened the bar around 1 pm.
Anyway 9 am opening time stated in googlemas and guides does not applythis week.


View media item 11067
Bar in Villanueva de Campean was closed.

 

[Pawel]

Restaurante Rosamari in Montamarta will be closed from 21st to 27th March.

 

[Pawel]

2022-03-13

Late start after coffee and breakfast with friends in Salamanca. I went to Calzada de Valdunciel and stayed in Albergue La Casa del Molinero. Some sticky mud was present along the route after yesterdays rains. Was alone and got bed in a double room. Nice albergue. Owner also runs Meson Fuentebuena on the N-630. They do good food - a change from standards.
Poor cellular network coverage inside.
16 km. Rest day


2022-03-14

Cold, rainy and windy day. Flat and open country without stops from Calzada to El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino. There was a narrow path on the right side of the way for almost the whole stage. Stopped in Albergue Terra de Sabre with supper and dinner. It was raining outside so any trip to the bar was discouraging.
20 km. Short one but cold and wet.


2022-03-15

Warm and windy day. A lot of sticky mud between Cubo and Zamora. With Calima bringing dust, the walk was strange. Like in a mist.
Otherwise the bar in Villanueva de Campean was closed and the bar in San Marcial has different opening hours (see picture in previous post).
Stayed in a municipal albergue in Zamora.
32 km in red mist.


2022-03-16

Another day without sun cause of Calima. After communal breakfast in the albergue and late start, I went to Roales del Pan for coffee then straight to Montamarta. Restaurante Rosamari does good food, however it will be closed from 21st to 27th March.
Open country with few trees and ruins of medieval town.

The icing on the cake was The Albergue Castroterafe in Fontanillas de Castro! Modern facilities, well kept. And with wonderful Hospitaleros Angela and Paco. We were invited for supper with food beating all previous dinners by far. Atmosphere was great and we just talked till late at night.

32 km. Slow and lazy day.


2022-03-17

Breakfast with Hospitaleros and late start because of morning talks around the table. Morning and the day were cold, cloudy but with much less dust in the air. Very nice walk with coffee in Bar La Espiga in Granja - the owner was very friendly.
Spectacular views in the bridge section.
Coviran in Tabara is open only in the mornings. There is carrefour.
Stayed in Tabara in municipal with Hospitalero Jose.

38 km through various country with new landscape some kms after Granja

 

[Sunopo]

Hey,

For all walking in the next few days stage from El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino to Zamora and planning coffee break in San Marcial's El Cruce bar, here are this week's opening hours.
NB that today owner opened the bar around 1 pm.
Anyway 9 am opening time stated in googlemas and guides does not applythis week.


View media item 11067
Bar in Villanueva de Campean was closed.

Thanks really useful info, will be passing tomorrow. And thanks also for tip on Bar/ restaurant Musicarte, was just fantastic. Everybody should stop there for a drink and montaditos, best I've had so far.

 

[Sunopo]

Restaurante Rosamari in Montamarta will be closed from 21st to 27th March.

Good to know, thanks

 

[Pawel]

Hey

From Olleros de Tera to Villar de Farfon there are at least three paths to the dam on Tera river (Presa Agavanzal). All with arrows.
1.
The blue one seems the best (see picture).

View media item 11078
2.
The one for bikes could be also easy (turn left at sign and follow the road).

View media item 11071


3.
The one closest to the river goes through bushes, thorny plants, is overgrown with plants (go straight through). There are fallen trees and path is sometimes hard to find. It seems rarely used recently. Arrows are scarce.

1. and 2. are much easier. Friends took them. I went through bushes and do not recomend it

 

[Pawel]

2022-03-18

Yesterday Jose prepared supper and today we had breakfast. Apart from the three of us there were two Spanish and one Italian pilgrims.
First day with the sun and shadows since Sunday.
Our goal was Villar de Farfon and Albergue Reheboth. Due to the long distance we took a shortcut from Villanueva de las Peras to Calzadilla de Tera. Santa Marta was too close and Rionegro a little bit too far. You can go diagonally through nice terrain from there.
After Calzadilla and around Olleros there are a lot of arrows.
If from Olleros you pass the lone church on a paved road and go close to the river, at some point you encounter sign directing bikes left along the road and walkers through the bushes.
I suggest going on the road to the dam. The path through the bushes seems to be rarely used, is overgrown with thorn plants and trees across the path that is sometimes hard to see.
You can also take parallel unpaved that starts from Calle Era/El Gallo.
Nice albergue in Villar de Farfon. Great dinner. As to Hospitalero - he has great stories to tell about his experiences. However it may be too much missionary at times.
38 km even with a shortcut.


2022-03-19

A Rehoboth has a well equipped kitchen with coffee and tea. If the fuse blows, it is under the information board left from the entrance.
Stops in Rionegro.del Puente and Mombuey. It was Saturday so small shops were open only in the morning.
We stayed in Asturianos in the municipal albergue. The most basic one so far! Just a room with three bunk beds, shower and toilets. It was very cold, however the electric heater did its job. Register at the bar. Both are next to the sports hall. Bar is surprisingly busy and does some (was good) food. Lady at the bar is kind a forgetful.
33 km. Sunglasses and hat in use! Very nice day.


2022-03-20

Early start for a long day.
Bar in Palacios de Sanabria was open at least from about 8:30. And it was Sunday. Then stops in Puebla de Sanabria and Requejo de Sanabria. Part through Terroso is worth walking.
After Puebla when You go along the river, at some point You encounter streams accross way. And then some more water. We could pass with dry feet, but after some rains it might be better to go back to N-525 at the first one.
After Requejo You can either follow the old camino (go straight near the yellow cemetery) or the road (turn left there). Road goes gradually up for maybe 3 km then you can go left and follow the old camino.
The old one goes lower in the valley and then steeply up. There are arrows.
We stayed in Padornelo in the hotel - it has triple rooms for a good price.
Very nice landscape and views.
39 km. Long day with the highest point on Puerta de Padornelo - 1365 m.


2022-03-21

Followed the road from Padornelo and turned left to the dead end N-525. Do not follow arrows directing you to Aciberos.
After Santuario de la Tuiza arrows are scarce and part of the way was very muddy and wet. It will surely be impassable with dry feet after more rain. This time we only needed to climb a slope once to avoid water. Other than that it was clinging to sides.
After the ascent we entered Galicia!
Now the way started to be marked by familiar bollards.
After O Canizo follow official signs. Arrows pointing left to the stone cross will lead You through mud and water.
Stayed in Xunta Albergue in A Gudina - new and moved from its previous location.
31 km with mist, showers and sun. Great landscape.

 

[Pawel]

2022-03-22

Dinner at the local social bar was great yesterday. So we jumped in there also in the morning.
There were 8+ other people in the albergue last jnight. Part to Campobecerros was difficult because of rain and a strong, cold wind on top of the hills with no cover. It was like walking in a mist.
Great views from the tops, whenever clouds allowed. In As Eiras apart from donativo cafe there is a rest area with vending machines and water source - left at the end of the village.
Stayed in Laza in Xunta albergue. Register in Protection Civil. 7 altogether. Bar O Descanso Do Peregrino did good and plenty of food.
Watch out for ascents and descents.
34 km. Hard walk in the clouds, rain and wind.


2022-03-23

It rained heavily during the night and in the morning. After that it was warm, dry and sunny. Again - look at the weather forecast, cloud coverage and current events to time your departure.
The climb to Albergueria was similar to the last four days. Beautiful scenery. Remember to step in to bar El Rincon del Peregrino to add your shell.
Alberguen in Vilar del Barrio was open. Contrary to information in guides and gronze.
We couldn't find a bar in Padroso.
Stayes in Xunta albergue in Xunqueira de Ambia. 12 pilgrims.
33 km. Without precipitation and with sun it was almost a rest day.


2022-03-24

Only bar Luciano was open around 8:30 in Xunqueira. Later it was sunny and very warm - hat, sunglasses, rolled sleeves and hoses again!
First part of the walk was much better than the entrance to the city and walking through the industrial zone.
Stayed in Xunta albergue in Ourense which looks like new. Kitchen is empty. Meson do Vita had great food and hospitality.
22 km.


2022-03-25

The Hospitalero of the albergue is a helpful man despite comments on gronze. In the morning another man comes to clean the albergue and urge to leave at 8.
Bar in front of the albergue is open early.
Sunday walk with some ascents through Tamancallos.
Stayed in Xunta albergue in Cea. Again: renovated well kept building with Hospitalero working there for almost 23 years. Large terrace.
12 pilgrims with us 3.
Hospitaleros have their habits and can be seen as harsh sometimes - after some talk it becomes clear how friendly and helpful they are. Well just my observation. Sol y Luna bar is an option for dinner.
22 km again - watch out for the left/right fork in Ourense.


2022-03-26

So the light switch in the dormitory in Xunta albergue in Cea is broken… however you can turn the lights on and off using a fuse in the kitchen. Ask Hospitalero for it or search for a fuse box under some prints next to the outer door in the kitchen. One with X turns them on/off.
Great walk on the left route.
Well placed stops in Dozon (Fraga) and Estacion de Lalin. Watch out for sizes of meals in Taberna de Vento - tasty and large.
Stayed in A Laxe in Xunta albergue. There are no mosquitoes now (see comments in gronze).
Ordered menu from Maria Jose by phone.
34 km. Savouring the last kilometres to Santiago.

 

[Lynnhardy]

Buen Camino Pawel - take joy in every step. I look forward to reading your updates and to hearing about your experiences.
I walk out from Seville on 19 April and hope to see some fellow Forum members as it looks as though there’s going to be quite a few of us setting out around then.
Cheers from Oz -
Jenny

Hi Jenny I start from Seville on 21st April,…. Should see you as I will be slow due to covid/lockdown eating and pudding waddle! So should see you…. I notice on here many many Aussies have escaped onto the camino! Ha ha which will be brilliant , every one of my Caminos has been enriched by chatting to an Aussie camino woman. Bien camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

Restaurante Rosamari in Montamarta will be closed from 21st to 27th March.

That means it should be re-opening tomorrow — don’t miss it, peregrinos. It is on the way out of town, so a lot of people get something to eat before they get to it, but it was a fabulous place for a delicious meal made with fresh ingredients. I have a strong memory that this was only the second place on my Vdlp/Sanabrés that I had a salad that did not use iceberg lettuce (the first was the restaurant across the square from the albergue in Casar de Cáceres).

It’s a women-owned business, which is also not terribly common in Spain, but is surely now much more usual than it was on my first walk through in 2008 or 09.

I’ve attached a picture taken in the early morning as we were walking out of town. Rosamari was there sweeping up. The picture doesn’t do a good job of showing that she was bowing down to wish us a buen camino with a flourish.

 

[Lynnhardy]

To the best of my knowledge it will not reopen in 2022.

So the only option is to walk Casar de Caceres to Cañaveral. Quite doable in this kind of weather. I even walked from Caceres to Cañaveral once, but I wouldn't recommend it.

Do you think it’s possible to bivvy next to the unopened albergue to break the walk?

 

[Former member 98118]

Do you think it’s possible to bivvy next to the unopened albergue to break the walk?

I don't see who could object to this as it is kind of ghost place where nobody lives, the issue would be access to drinking water because I don't know if you find any working tap around.
There is a place for launching kayaks that could possibly be used to get to water from the lake but obviously to drink it you would need a good filter.


Edited for spelling mistakes

 

[JennyH94]

Hi Jenny I start from Seville on 21st April,…. Should see you as I will be slow due to covid/lockdown eating and pudding waddle! So should see you…. I notice on here many many Aussies have escaped onto the camino! Ha ha which will be brilliant , every one of my Caminos has been enriched by chatting to an Aussie camino woman. Bien camino!

It would be terrific to see you Lynn! I’m walking slowly too and walking shorter days so you’ll catch up to me for sure!

Until then, best best wishes and Buen Camino!

Cheers from Oz -
Jenny

 

[JennyH94]

Hi Pawel -

Thanks so much for for your posts - they’re so fantastic and so useful. It’s great to get your impressions and your recommendations, which I’ve noted. Thank you for taking the time to post and to share.

I hope you’re having a really happy and special camino.

Best wishes -

Jenny

 

[Pawel]

Galicia's albergues.

We stayed in Xunta's albergues in A Gudina, Laza, Xunqueira de Ambia, Ourense, Cea, A Laxe and Outeiro.
All very warm in the evenings and at nights. Heaters/radiators were turned at some time in the evening.
All were very well kept and usually in new or renovated buildings.
Kitchen utensils were available only in Xunqueira, Laza and Cea. Other kitchens had only microvawe and usually fridge.

 

[Flatcap]

Buen Camino Pawel - take joy in every step. I look forward to reading your updates and to hearing about your experiences.
I walk out from Seville on 19 April and hope to see some fellow Forum members as it looks as though there’s going to be quite a few of us setting out around then.
Cheers from Oz -
Jenny

I’ll say hallo wen I run past..!! I’m stating at the 24april.!!

 

[JennyH94]

I’ll say hallo wen I run past..!! I’m stating at the 24april.!!

Terrific, @Flatcap ! If you see a peregrina with a hiking trailer and an Aussie flag sticker on the cart, that’s me!

Buen running camino!

Cheers from Oz -

Jenny

 

[IanMcC]

I'm starting on 23 April so may see you if your not too fast.

 

[Pawel]

2022-03-27

Sunny and hot Sunday. Slow walk with several stops in Silleda, Bandeiro and Ponte Ulla. Several ascends and descends including the last one to Outeiro. Most shops were closed as well as some bars.
Stayed in Outeiro in Xunta albergue. New building with two dormitories away from any services.
We ordered a meal from bodados bar - be sure to ask for cutlery and cups, the kitchen is empty.
Albergue with great potential. There were four of us there.
34 km.


2022-03-28

Last kms to Santiago. Stopped in A Susana, however one bar had only coffee and the other was closed… Deseiro bar a few km earlier could be a better option.
Again slow walk, enjoying the last stage.
In Santiago we rented a room for three in the centre for the price of the albergue
Spent some time around town, ate at Casa Manolo at plaza Cervantes and went for evening Mass at 7:30 pm.
17 km.


2022-03-29

Off to Finisterre and Muxia. After breakfast and goodbyes to D and E I went on out of Santiago. Nothing worth noting on the way. Standard stop at Alto do Vento.
Stayed in Xunta albergue in Negreira - kitchen was empty.and without fridge. For the first time in this walk the albergue was full. It was filled in the late afternoon. There are more pilgrims from the other routes.

Statistics shown by the pilgrim's office are surprising having in mind so few people on VldP. 642 arrivals on Friday, 462 on Saturday, 329 on Sunday and 313 on Monday. It shows how busy it is now on CF and CP.
Apart from Pilgrim Office statistics check this page:

Daily pilgrim arrivals since 2020 | Solvitur Ambulando

Here you have the data of the daily pilgrim arrivals to Santiago de Compostela offered by the Pilgrim's Office.

solviturambulando.es

22 km. Slowly moving to the coast.


2022-03-30

Not much to say about the way - cloudy and perfect for walking. Stop in Vilaserio as usual
Some pilgrims left very early, before 7 am when there was still about an hour to dusk. Tranquility of VdlP is a thing of the past.
Stayed in Olveiroa in Xunta albergue. Good as previously with almost empty kitchen.
Rain tomorrow and As Pias opens at 7:30.
This time I will go first to Muxia.
33 km.


2022-03-31

Chased by showers throughout the day. The way is well marked by stone bollards. Dumbria and Quintans are at convenient distances for stops and refills.
Slept in Xunta albergue in Muxia. This time with about 10 more pilgrims it was rather busy. Most of the pilgrims that stayed in Olveiroa went to Muxia.
Terrace on the top floor is nice.
32 km.


2022-04-01

Great walk with good weather. Not much to say about Camino itself.
I booked a room close to the Xunta albergue to chill out after the walk.
Surprisingly Xunta albergue was closed - well gronze says that it is closed on weekends, anyway I met other pilgrims waiting or searching for alternatives.
Buses to Santiago leave from a little bit further up the street, next to the school. Check the announcement on the standard bus stop. This is due to road works.
Monbus has a schedule here:

https://www.monbus.es/es/rutas-puntos-de-venta/465/viajar-fisterra-estacion-de-autobuses-santiago-de-compostela-estacion-de-autobuses/#seleccion

Cabo Fisterra was almost empty. Mostly tourists.
Last 27 km + walk to the lighthouse.

 

[Pawel]

Aha with respect to Negreira being full - all beds were taken, there was no x% limit.

 

[RussB]

Great info, thanks for sharing

 

[Tom Conklin]

2022-03-18

Yesterday Jose prepared supper and today we had breakfast. Apart from the three of us there were two Spanish and one Italian pilgrims.
First day with the sun and shadows since Sunday.
Our goal was Villar de Farfon and Albergue Reheboth. Due to the long distance we took a shortcut from Villanueva de las Peras to Calzadilla de Tera. Santa Marta was too close and Rionegro a little bit too far. You can go diagonally through nice terrain from there.
After Calzadilla and around Olleros there are a lot of arrows.
If from Olleros you pass the lone church on a paved road and go close to the river, at some point you encounter sign directing bikes left along the road and walkers through the bushes.
I suggest going on the road to the dam. The path through the bushes seems to be rarely used, is overgrown with thorn plants and trees across the path that is sometimes hard to see.
You can also take parallel unpaved that starts from Calle Era/El Gallo.
Nice albergue in Villar de Farfon. Great dinner. As to Hospitalero - he has great stories to tell about his experiences. However it may be too much missionary at times.
38 km even with a shortcut.


2022-03-19

A Rehoboth has a well equipped kitchen with coffee and tea. If the fuse blows, it is under the information board left from the entrance.
Stops in Rionegro.del Puente and Mombuey. It was Saturday so small shops were open only in the morning.
We stayed in Asturianos in the municipal albergue. The most basic one so far! Just a room with three bunk beds, shower and toilets. It was very cold, however the electric heater did its job. Register at the bar. Both are next to the sports hall. Bar is surprisingly busy and does some (was good) food. Lady at the bar is kind a forgetful.
33 km. Sunglasses and hat in use! Very nice day.


2022-03-20

Early start for a long day.
Bar in Palacios de Sanabria was open at least from about 8:30. And it was Sunday. Then stops in Puebla de Sanabria and Requejo de Sanabria. Part through Terroso is worth walking.
After Puebla when You go along the river, at some point You encounter streams accross way. And then some more water. We could pass with dry feet, but after some rains it might be better to go back to N-525 at the first one.
After Requejo You can either follow the old camino (go straight near the yellow cemetery) or the road (turn left there). Road goes gradually up for maybe 3 km then you can go left and follow the old camino.
The old one goes lower in the valley and then steeply up. There are arrows.
We stayed in Padornelo in the hotel - it has triple rooms for a good price.
Very nice landscape and views.
39 km. Long day with the highest point on Puerta de Padornelo - 1365 m.


2022-03-21

Followed the road from Padornelo and turned left to the dead end N-525. Do not follow arrows directing you to Aciberos.
After Santuario de la Tuiza arrows are scarce and part of the way was very muddy and wet. It will surely be impassable with dry feet after more rain. This time we only needed to climb a slope once to avoid water. Other than that it was clinging to sides.
After the ascent we entered Galicia!
Now the way started to be marked by familiar bollards.
After O Canizo follow official signs. Arrows pointing left to the stone cross will lead You through mud and water.
Stayed in Xunta Albergue in A Gudina - new and moved from its previous location.
31 km with mist, showers and sun. Great landscape.

Why don’t you go through Aciberos? The low road is very nice but what is wrong with the high road?

 

[Pawel]

It is the old route. Now after AVE construction official route goes left there.

 

[Pawel]

Soon it will be the week after the end of my walk.

There is one question now which is: when again?

Not if?

 

[Dave W96]

Pawel your posts have been most helpful in my planning. I should have walked the Vdlp last year but a hip replacement put a stop to that idea. Now I must go after Easter as at 84 I may not have the energy in a year or two. I hope to meet many of you on the way but do not feel embarrassed if you cannot maintain my pace. Few people can walk as slowly as I do for more than twenty minutes.
Best wishes and Buen Camino to all
Dave

 

[Lynnhardy]

Pawel your posts have been most helpful in my planning. I should have walked the Vdlp last year but a hip replacement put a stop to that idea. Now I must go after Easter as at 84 I may not have the energy in a year or two. I hope to meet many of you on the way but do not feel embarrassed if you cannot maintain my pace. Few people can walk as slowly as I do for more than twenty minutes.
Best wishes and Buen Camino to all
Dave

Bien camino . Have you a start date from Seville?

 

[Lynnhardy]

Bien camino . Have you a start date from Seville?

And why embarrassment ! If I can do it at 84 I will be more than happy!

 

[Dave W96]

Hi Lynn
If Easyjet operate on schedule I will be starting on 22nd this month. If I remember correctly I will be a day after you, maybe we will bump into each other somewhere along the way.
Buen camino
Dave