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Via di Francesco 🇮🇹

Thank you for this, it's really interesting. I walked the way of st Francis a few years ago but when I got to Rieti it snowed so heavily I had to just take the train to Rome 2018 (I think). I came back later to finish it off. I don't think you will have that problem! I visited Greccio from Rieti, where St Francis arranged a nativity scene using the local people and animals. Will you have a chance to go there?
We are walking Rieti to Assisi in November. I haven’t been able to find luggage transport without purchasing a hotel package with it. Any suggestions?
 
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We are walking Rieti to Assisi in November. I haven’t been able to find luggage transport without purchasing a hotel package with it. Any suggestions?
I’m not aware of any luggage transport but I also wasn’t looking for it. Sorry I can’t be of any help.

But you have chosen an amazing stretch of the VdF. Buon cammino!
 
Day 17: Fonticelli - Monterotondo: 29km

With the end fast approaching, today was a stage of olive groves and thoughts of Rome.

As discussed upthread, leaving Rieti yesterday morning, I thought I had five stages left. But doing a double stage yesterday and rethinking my approach to Rome means those five days have suddenly been reduced to three. I’m happy with this new plan because it takes me more quickly through these last few stages, which haven’t been as magical as the ones between Assisi and Rieti, and because it gives me two extra days in Rome, an opportunity I would never turn down.

As for today’s stage, there weren’t a lot of highlights beyond the olive groves but this 13th-century tower in the storm light was an evocative ruin. I’ve often thought about that term — evocative ruin — and how it applies to places on the camino. Nearly every camino has one (or more), and it can be a well-known place like San Antón on the Francés, or an obscure tower like Tamariz on the Madrid or this one today. With the tower dwarfing the trees around it and the mountains virtually blending into the dark sky, it made for a memorable scene.

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Tomorrow: Rome! And the Rifugio Romano lunch booking has been confirmed!
 
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St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
I’m not aware of any luggage transport but I also wasn’t looking for it. Sorry I can’t be of any help.

But you have chosen an amazing stretch of the VdF. Buon cammino!
Grazie! Have you encountered wild boars or watch dogs?
 
Grazie! Have you encountered wild boars or watch dogs?
I saw wild boars at a distance but on the first day or two from La Verna, not close to your stretch. They ran away once they saw me.

There are plenty of dogs and I am timid around them. The aggressive, barking ones have all been behind fences, luckily. I was bitten by a small domestic dog north of Assisi, drawing blood. Yesterday a large dog came bounding up to me and I was scared for a moment but he/she turned out to be friendly and walked with me for a while. I managed to take a nice photo too.

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There were loads of dogs when I did it too, mostly barking from behind a fence although some did run out and bark at me. I'm scared of dogs so that wasn't fun. Despite this it was a wonderful pilgrimage and one of my favourites.
 
Day 18: Monterotondo - Rome: ~28km

The camino is about the journey, not the destination — except when the destination is Rome.

I was so focused on arriving in my favourite city today that the first 18km from Monterotondo to Monte Sacro was a complete afterthought. It was rural for the first 12km before I entered the outskirts of Rome and urbanisation.

From Monte Sacro, I did indeed forego the roundabout 15km to St. Peter’s Basilica and headed directly into the centre of Rome on the Via Nomentana. I arrived at St. Agnes Outside the Walls just in time for Sunday mass and it was a beautiful service with live music in an exceptional church, featuring a seventh-century Byzantine-style mosaic of Agnes in the apse. Despite being non-religious, I felt very fortunate to be there and to be able to reflect on my pilgrimage.

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After going through the Aurelian Walls at the Porta Pia, I had lunch and then continued on foot to Re di Roma, where I’m staying with a friend. This allowed me to go inside Rome’s cathedral, St. John of Lateran, which seemed an appropriate place to visit today, given that it was the original seat of the Pope and is one of Rome’s seven pilgrim churches.

Finally, outside the church is Rome’s monument to St. Francis of Assisi, the man who I have been following for the last three weeks since La Verna. It was, I thought, a most appropriate end* to a wonderful pilgrimage.

B25B62D9-DCFD-4EA7-83A6-F24595229D68.jpeg

* Not quite, as I still have to walk 6km to St. Peter’s tomorrow to receive the testimonium.
 
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Congratulations Nick. I missed your last few posts as for some reason they didn’t come through in my news feed. So I went searching for your posts by name to see you have arrived. What a wonderful camino, we look forward to following in your footsteps - and of course that other fellow, St Francis. 😎🇮🇹❤️
Thank you! Let’s discuss it over cocktails at Pretty Beach :)
 
Day 19: Re di Roma - San Pietro: ~6km

Today’s ‘victory lap’ on the Via di Francesco was a 6km limp to St. Peter’s Basilica.

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St. Peter’s was the first place I gave tours at in Rome, all the way back in 2001. It’s been years since I’ve been inside though, and I’d somehow almost forgotten just how enormous the church is. After seeing much more humble grottoes, hermitages and sanctuaries related to St. Francis on the Via di Francesco, it seems to me now that St. Peter’s is too big, that something might have been lost along the way. Plus, I’m much more of a medievalist now than I was when I lived in Rome, so these days I prefer some of the city’s smaller, older churches, such as St. Agnes Outside the Walls from yesterday, or Santa Maria in Trastevere or Santa Prassede or a host of others.

Still, there’s no denying the splendour and grandeur of St. Peter’s, and while I’m here I will mention my favourite piece in the church: Michelangelo’s Pietà, sculpted when the artist was 23 years old. This has always been my favourite work of Michelangelo’s. Words cannot describe how beautiful it is.

01DFFC0F-8081-4994-9627-40472C073F57.jpeg

And with that, my Via di Francesco has truly come to an end. This was a phenomenal pilgrimage, in my top two or three without a doubt. Hopefully there will be more Italian pilgrimages on the horizon in the years to come!
 
Michelangelo’s Pietà, sculpted when the artist was 23 years old. This has always been my favourite work of Michelangelo’s. Words cannot describe how beautiful it is.
I totally agree! The emotion it evoked for me gave me goose bumps, and as I am a mother it made me want to weep.
 
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Day 19: Re di Roma - San Pietro: ~6km

Today’s ‘victory lap’ on the Via di Francesco was a 6km limp to St. Peter’s Basilica.

View attachment 135484

St. Peter’s was the first place I gave tours at in Rome, all the way back in 2001. It’s been years since I’ve been inside though, and I’d somehow almost forgotten just how enormous the church is. After seeing much more humble grottoes, hermitages and sanctuaries related to St. Francis on the Via di Francesco, it seems to me now that St. Peter’s is too big, that something might have been lost along the way. Plus, I’m much more of a medievalist now than I was when I lived in Rome, so these days I prefer some of the city’s smaller, older churches, such as St. Agnes Outside the Walls from yesterday, or Santa Maria in Trastevere or Santa Prassede or a host of others.

Still, there’s no denying the splendour and grandeur of St. Peter’s, and while I’m here I will mention my favourite piece in the church: Michelangelo’s Pietà, sculpted when the artist was 23 years old. This has always been my favourite work of Michelangelo’s. Words cannot describe how beautiful it is.

View attachment 135483

And with that, my Via di Francesco has truly come to an end. This was a phenomenal pilgrimage, in my top two or three without a doubt. Hopefully there will be more Italian pilgrimages on the horizon in the years to come!
Thank you, Jungleboy, for sharing your journey on the St. Francis Camino. You not only walked a varied path with beautiful scenery, but also shared the sacred soil which Francis walked, lived, prayed and took refuge.

My two favorite sculptures in Rome are Michaelangelo’s Pieta and Bernini’s Ecstasy of St Theresa which is at The Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria.
Sometimes I wish the Pieta was in a smaller church as well.
 
There are plenty of dogs and I am timid around them. The aggressive, barking ones have all been behind fences, luckily.
I had a scary experience on the VF...I was flanked by two snarling, cunning mutts...you could see what field work they had been trained to do...
I talked them down but it was that rarest of occasions where I wished I had two hiking poles instead of my standard one!

Nick, a huge congratulations on your achievement! 🏅🏆
I think I can safely speak for all of us who've followed your journey (& those yet to discover these wonderful posts) by giving a big shout out 💐for sharing it with us. Your writing & photos were a joy plus your diligence & commitment in posting every day while acknowledging/responding to each comment & question is an admirable feat on it's own.

Not that I'm trying to move you forward before you've truly arrived & wound down in Roma but...any other jaunts between now & your visit to our 🇦🇺 fine shores?

As discussed upthread...
Oh...and finally, thank you for adding to our vernacular with 'upthread'....! 👏

Rest up & enjoy all Rome has to offer...both known & previously undiscovered! 🍾🥂🍝
👣 🌏
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Thank you, Jungleboy, for sharing your journey on the St. Francis Camino. You not only walked a varied path with beautiful scenery, but also shared the sacred soil which Francis walked, lived, prayed and took refuge.
Thank you for following!

My two favorite sculptures in Rome are Michaelangelo’s Pieta and Bernini’s Ecstasy of St Theresa which is at The Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria.
Sometimes I wish the Pieta was in a smaller church as well.
True story: @Elle Bieling visited the St Theresa sculpture before we met up in Rome before starting the VdF and showed me her photo of it without comment as a test of my Rome 'credentials' to see if I knew what it was. Luckily I did! 🤣

It's been years since I've seen it though, so maybe I'll go and have a look at it today.
 
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I had a scary experience on the VF...I was flanked by two snarling, cunning mutts...you could see what field work they had been trained to do...
I talked them down but it was that rarest of occasions where I wished I had two hiking poles instead of my standard one!
Scary! 😱 I didn't have any poles and I felt OK about that walking-wise but I wouldn't have minded having one or two for the dogs!

Nick, a huge congratulations on your achievement! 🏅🏆
I think I can safely speak for all of us who've followed your journey (& those yet to discover these wonderful posts) by giving a big shout out 💐for sharing it with us. Your writing & photos were a joy plus your diligence & commitment in posting every day while acknowledging/responding to each comment & question is an admirable feat on it's own.
Thank you, that's so nice of you to say! 🙈

Not that I'm trying to move you forward before you've truly arrived & wound down in Roma but...any other jaunts between now & your visit to our 🇦🇺 fine shores?
I do actually have a short little jaunt in early Dec. It's just a few days and I won't reveal it yet (just to create some intrigue/buzz! 🤣) but I'll share it here when the time comes.
 
True story: @Elle Bieling visited the St Theresa statue before we met up in Rome before starting the VdF and showed me her photo of it without comment as a test of my Rome 'credentials' to see if I knew what it was. Luckily I did! 🤣
For those who would like to see The Ectasy of St Teresa, here it is. Since having done the Camino Teresiano (https://www.pilgrimagetraveler.com/camino-teresiano.html), she is very special to me. I think I like this one the best. It is perhaps Bernini's true masterpiece.
 

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The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
For those who would like to see The Ectasy of St Teresa, here it is. Since having done the Camino Teresiano (https://www.pilgrimagetraveler.com/camino-teresiano.html), she is very special to me. I think I like this one the best. It is perhaps Bernini's true masterpiece.

thanks for this picture, Elle. Itis so stunning in person,I haven’t seen a picture that capture’s the beauty of the sculpture. The sculpture is from the Baroque era. One can feel the passion and vibrant form that Bernini creates, And the quiet setting and lighting can make for a very reflective opportunity. Teresa is one of my favorites as well!
 
For those who would like to see The Ectasy of St Teresa, here it is. Since having done the Camino Teresiano (https://www.pilgrimagetraveler.com/camino-teresiano.html), she is very special to me.

Elle, i wasn’t aware of the Camino Teresiano but just took a quick look at your site. That’s certainly one to ‘put in the back pocket’ for later.

Though I’m not a practising catholic, both Saint Teresa and St Francis featured prominently in my primary school education. I did religious education projects on both and recall them as being the most kindly and relatable of saints, if that makes any sense at all ☺️

We are hoping to walk the Via di Francesco next October, now I can add Camino Teresiano to the list of Caminos still to walk - which seems to be growing rather than reducing 😎

Thank you for the information and inspiration. 🙏
 
Though I’m not a practising catholic, both Saint Teresa and St Francis featured prominently in my primary school education. I did religious education projects on both and recall them as being the most kindly and relatable of saints, if that makes any sense at all ☺️

@Pelerina, I couldn't agree more. The "spirituality" around the two of them, if you will, is different; humble, real and back to the true essence of things.

now I can add Camino Teresiano to the list of Caminos still to walk - which seems to be growing rather than reducing 😎

So true! And you are welcome for the introduction!
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Thank you, I’ll be finished on Tuesday so fire away then!
I won't be walking the distances you walk as I am a lot older than you. The plan is to walk into Rome on my 70th Birthday. I walked the CF from Roncesvalles last year and the CP Porto to Finisterre this year.
first question. Were places to stay easy to find?
2) Were there hostels or mainly hotels?
3) Were there plenty of places to eat or shops to buy food?
Thanks in advance
Muddy-mama
 
I won't be walking the distances you walk as I am a lot older than you. The plan is to walk into Rome on my 70th Birthday. I walked the CF from Roncesvalles last year and the CP Porto to Finisterre this year.
Sounds like a great idea! It really is a fantastic pilgrimage.

My answers below all basically follow the same theme: there is enough pilgrim infrastructure, but not nearly as much as on the caminos you've walked. It's quite rural and mountainous, so there are sometimes stages where there are no settlements between the start point and end point of the day. Walking shorter stages should be OK for the most part but on the northern route especially it may mean fewer options for accommodation/food.

1) Were places to stay easy to find?
More or less, but not as easy as on the two caminos you've done. @Elle Bieling put together a list of accommodation which was super useful. There are some days when there might only be one or two possible options.

2) Were there hostels or mainly hotels?
A combination of pilgrim accommodation (often convents or similar), hotels (mostly) and agriturismos. The agriturismos will be helpful in planning shorter stages in the mountainous areas where there often aren't villages/towns short distances apart.

3) Were there plenty of places to eat or shops to buy food?
Enough for me but, again, less than on the two caminos you've done. If you're hoping to stop regularly at cafés for snacks/coffee, this walk does not often provide that option. There are quite a few stages where you need to bring your own food for lunch. I usually do this on camino anyway so it wasn't anything new for me but it does require a bit more planning.

I hope I have not scared you off. I have become used to doing more remote caminos in the last few years so I didn't find this difficult in that sense but there are fewer villages and therefore fewer options for food and accommodation than the CF or CP.
 
Sounds like a great idea! It really is a fantastic pilgrimage.

My answers below all basically follow the same theme: there is enough pilgrim infrastructure, but not nearly as much as on the caminos you've walked. It's quite rural and mountainous, so there are sometimes stages where there are no settlements between the start point and end point of the day. Walking shorter stages should be OK for the most part but on the northern route especially it may mean fewer options for accommodation/food.


More or less, but not as easy as on the two caminos you've done. @Elle Bieling put together a list of accommodation which was super useful. There are some days when there might only be one or two possible options.


A combination of pilgrim accommodation (often convents or similar), hotels (mostly) and agriturismos. The agriturismos will be helpful in planning shorter stages in the mountainous areas where there often aren't villages/towns short distances apart.


Enough for me but, again, less than on the two caminos you've done. If you're hoping to stop regularly at cafés for snacks/coffee, this walk does not often provide that option. There are quite a few stages where you need to bring your own food for lunch. I usually do this on camino anyway so it wasn't anything new for me but it does require a bit more planning.

I hope I have not scared you off. I have become used to doing more remote caminos in the last few years so I didn't find this difficult in that sense but there are fewer villages and therefore fewer options for food and accommodation than the CF or CP.
Thank you for your quick reply and no you haven't put me off. I will look into the agriturismos they sound like a good option. Like you I always carry some food so I will probably carry a bit extra.
Thanks again.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Thank you for your quick reply and no you haven't put me off. I will look into the agriturismos they sound like a good option. Like you I always carry some food so I will probably carry a bit extra.
Thanks again.
Another two questions Jungleboy
Did you find an app for the route?
Are there accommodation lists at tourist offices?
Did Ellie do a list for the whole route or just until Assisi?
Ok that's three. I hope you are not getting fed up with me but your information is so good.
Thanks in advance
Muddy-mama
 
Another two questions Jungleboy
Did you find an app for the route?
Are there accommodation lists at tourist offices?
Did Ellie do a list for the whole route or just until Assisi?
Ok that's three. I hope you are not getting fed up with me but your information is so good.
Thanks in advance
Muddy-mama
Hello @muddy-mama, I will answer these questions for us. There is no app that I am aware of. I am also not sure what the tourist offices offer, as I did not use them. Nick can answer if he knows. As for an accommodation list, I researched the entire route, because I will finish it eventually, so technically, the answer is yes. However, I did not make a list per se, but placed the accommodations on a Google map. This info will be available shortly, as I work on my website to write up my journey, experiences and advice for pilgrims. So, sorry you will have to wait. :) Elle
 
Hello @muddy-mama, I will answer these questions for us. There is no app that I am aware of. I am also not sure what the tourist offices offer, as I did not use them. Nick can answer if he knows. As for an accommodation list, I researched the entire route, because I will finish it eventually, so technically, the answer is yes. However, I did not make a list per se, but placed the accommodations on a Google map. This info will be available shortly, as I work on my website to write up my journey, experiences and advice for pilgrims. So, sorry you will have to wait. :) Elle
Thank you Elle. I look forward to the seeing your experiences of your journey.
 
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As for an accommodation list, I researched the entire route, because I will finish it eventually, so technically, the answer is yes. However, I did not make a list per se, but placed the accommodations on a Google map. This info will be available shortly, as I work on my website to write up my journey, experiences and advice for pilgrims. So, sorry you will have to wait. :) Elle
@muddy-mama hello, I have finally finished my maps, with GPS tracks, and with most features that pilgrim's appreciate, including a practically exhaustive number of accommodations that I was able to find via extensive research. Please see my article Way of St. Francis Maps and Stats, and scroll until you see my map. I have also included prices, as of the end of this year, which while will eventually not be current, it will assist in being able to compare one accommodation against the other! Enjoy!!
 
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Well, this is something different! After walking several caminos in Spain and Portugal in the last few years, today I started walking the Via di Francesco in Italy. It’s a pilgrimage of about 500km centred around the life of St. Francis of Assisi, starting from a sanctuary in La Verna, Tuscany, and heading south via Assisi to Rome. Wendy is not joining me for this pilgrimage but I am lucky to be walking with @Elle Bieling and her husband Rich (the fourth person in the photo below is Amanuel, an Eritrean living in Germany who we met yesterday).

View attachment 134118

Last night we stayed in pilgrim accommodations at the beautiful and atmospheric La Verna sanctuary, which was a fantastic experience. This is where Francis received the stigmata and it’s still an active monastery, isolated in the mountains. This morning we received a pilgrim blessing from one of the monks and went on our way!

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View attachment 134120

Day 1 - La Verna to Pieve Santo Stefano: ~15km

I don’t mind city exits on camino, so I’ve always been fine to begin a pilgrimage in Lisbon or Porto or Madrid or wherever. But this — starting the Via di Francesco at a Tuscan sanctuary and immediately being plunged into a beautiful forest — was something else entirely and a spectacular way to set out on this adventure.

As a first day, it was almost perfect. After seeing the sun’s first rays hit the cross at the sanctuary, we walked in forest for the next three hours — first amidst the changing colours of autumn, and then among towering pine trees, with no signs of civilisation. The walk was short, the weather was glorious, and I had the entertaining company of Elle and Rich.

View attachment 134119

Along the way, we picked berries and saw mushrooms, chestnuts and even wild boar. Forest walking on pilgrimage is nothing new, of course, but this felt different from what I’m used to in Spain and Portugal. I have been lucky to spend a lot of time in Italy in the last 21 years, from the jagged peaks of the Dolomites to the Greek temples of Sicily and many places in between, but this first Italian pilgrimage in the Central Apennines somehow feels new and exciting.

With a successful first day done and dusted, it’s onwards and (literally) upwards tomorrow!
Buen Camino! Love your posts! I am planning on walking this Camino in May 2023. Question please. Did you pre-book your accommodations? Find accommodation when you arrived to towns? Did you use a travel agent? If so, who did you use? Any information is much appreciated. NAMASTE!
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Buen Camino! Love your posts! I am planning on walking this Camino in May 2023. Question please. Did you pre-book your accommodations? Find accommodation when you arrived to towns? Did you use a travel agent? If so, who did you use? Any information is much appreciated. NAMASTE!
@YOGRANNI, Nick, my husband and I walked together the northern section from La Verna to Assisi, so I will answer for us. No, we did not pre-book. Only the first two nights, in La Verna and in Santo Stefano, because we really, really wanted to stay at the Sanctuary in La Verna because it is a very, very special place, and Santo Stefano has very few choices. However, we did book one day ahead for the rest, which is truly mandatory to alert the rural places so they can provide you with necessities, like dinner if there are no restaurants in the area.

It may be better to book at least two days ahead, as we got caught in early October when the Ostello Eremo di San Pietro in Vigneto had already closed and we didn't call ahead to plan. We had to scramble to find accommodation, and thanks to Nick's Italian skills we were able to secure an agriturismo farther along, at a much, much higher price.

If you are on a strict budget, it is very important to insure you have a spot at the monasteries, donativos, and/or hostels. Almost all these places will reserve, in fact they want you to. The concept of albergues is just not developed on this walk!

If you are walking in high season, OR if you are walking in the off season, it is wise to prebook. High season because of the number of walkers, and the cusp/off seasons because you don't know if they have closed for the season. Even October must be confirmed.

And no, we did not use a travel agent.

And Nick, perhaps has more suggestions for you for the southern section from Assisi to Rome. Good luck and happy planning!
Elle
 
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St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Thank you so much for the information, and your time!
This helps so much!
Buen Camino!
 
Having read this thread I am now totally torn - the Francesco or part of the Francigena?
Tough call! I haven’t walked any part of the Francigena so I can’t compare, but @Camino Chrissy walked the section from Lucca to Rome around the same time we were on the VdF, so maybe check out her live thread if you haven’t already. The VdF has a fair bit more elevation change than the Francigena, so it is harder by that measure. But I recommend it whole-heartedly!

I like ‘full caminos’ (and I realise some people say there is no such thing), so that’s why I chose the VdF and didn’t consider doing part of the Francigena.
 
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Day 7 - Gubbio - Agriturismo Tenuta di Biscina: ~25km (including walking around Gubbio)

The Via di Francesco is nothing if not an adventure!

I spent the morning exploring Gubbio and for a brief period, the sun came out and created some amazing light. After soaking up the atmosphere of this fabulous place for a couple of hours, it was time to get moving.

View attachment 134566

View attachment 134568

I didn’t leave Gubbio until about 10:30am and with only a 15km stage to the Eremo di San Pietro in Vigneto, the walk itself seemed almost like an afterthought. But the cammino had other plans. First, I was bitten by a dog — a small domestic dog on a leash, but still. I showed the owner where my leg was bleeding and she said it was only a little bite and didn’t seem to care much.

Then, Elle and Rich, who were well ahead of me, got in touch to say the hermitage-ostello where we had planned to stay was closed. It’s an isolated area and it’s off-season now so we had to scramble to see if we could find somewhere to stay that didn’t involve going all the way to Valfabbrica, which would have made for a 38km day.

Eventually after a few phone calls, an agriturismo a few kilometres past the hermitage came to the rescue, and now we have a beautiful apartment that significantly exceeds our usual lowly pilgrim standards, and we’re having a home-cooked dinner made for us with vegetables from the garden.

The cammino provides, as they say.
JUngleboy, I am trying to connect with the Tenuta di Biscina Agriturismo without success. Have tried both whats app and their email? How did you contact them? Any ideas for me?
 
JUngleboy, I am trying to connect with the Tenuta di Biscina Agriturismo without success. Have tried both whats app and their email? How did you contact them? Any ideas for me?
I just called the number from Google Maps or their website. But that was on about the 11th of October (last year). They might be closed for the year by now.
 
I just called the number from Google Maps or their website. But that was on about the 11th of October (last year). They might be closed for the year by now.
Possibly, tho on the website it says, "always open". I tried again on WApp in Italian?
 
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