Via Domitia?

[DLJ]

I am interested if anyone has any current information on the Via Domitia? The GR653D starting from Montgenevre to Arles. Route conditions, accomodations, etc.? Tentative start in September.

 

[Harington]

Yes! I set out mid-September (18th) from Montgenèvre hoping to walk for four weeks and make it to Montpellier. I had the accommodation list from the Association des Amis de St Jacques PACA (Provence-Alpes-Corse), plus their info on their Chaîne d'Accueil (local residents who will give you bed and board for the night). I also had the TopoGuide with list of gîtes d'étape. Huh!!! Not one of the Amis de St Jacques in the Chaîne d'Accueil ever answered their telephone; nor did one gîte appear to be open when I called ahead - only one ever called back in response to an answerphone message, and that came too late. Youth Hostel closed years before. Every evening I had to look for a hotel (v expensive) and a restaurant (also expensive), and in eight days I'd spent half my budget for the month, and had to abandon the attempt.
Also - be warned: not one walker (let alone pilgrim) did I encounter, which made some of the high paths a bit anxious-making. The way-marking is sporadic. Sometimes plenty of GR balises, even Camino markers, but where you want them - zilch. Got lost up in the mountains too many times to count.

This all sounds v negative, and I'm sorry about this. I don't know how young/experienced etc you are, but you need a mighty budget to do this one. I hated abandoning - it's not what i do!

 

[newfydog]

We have seen the same thing throughout France----the rural areas are "hollowing out" as the little towns close up and all the young people move to a city. The little stores and restaurants, rooms available signs, inexpensive hotels are harder and harder to find. On the via Francigena in northern France we were lucky to be on bikes, with the option of going well off track to find a place.

 

[PilgrimKia]

I am interested if anyone has any current information on the Via Domitia? The GR653D starting from Montgenevre to Arles. Route conditions, accomodations, etc.? Tentative start in September.

Here is my story – very different.

I am not young (still 69+ some months), but I’m a little bit experienced. I’m walking for my own pleasure – nothing else! This time I had planned for Oulx – Montgenèvre – Sisteron, 11 days of walking in the end of June/beginning of July 2014.

In my research/planning I cut out the “map corridor”, measure the path and reasonable stages. Most of them were acc. to proposals, some were too long for me. I also obtained info about the lodging possibilities from several sources. Tourist Offices (TO) are extremely valuable, I marked them on the map. There is a railway parallel to Via Domitia a good deal of first part, I printed the daily connections. I bring no cell phone or smart phone, no GPS, just my maps and information. I cannot say either lodging or food was expensive! As some gîtes etc often were located far from villages, half board was perfect.


I went by train from Torino to Oulx, arrived in the middle of the day. Went to the TO, they made a reservation in Cesana Torinese. For the next night I had asked from home for a bed in Villar de Pachras – it was there for me! As well as in l’Argentiere de la Bessée and Mont Dauphine. The next stage was too long and I took the train from Mont Dauphine to Embrun. Walking to Savine le Lac – again a helpful TO and I got a flat with a broad view J Over the bridge – St Apollinaire – Chorges. TO in Chorges - a young woman with real “feeling” - not just found a “chalet” on the camping for me that night but also knew exactly what the perfect for a pilgrim would be the next night: The “sanctuary” Notre Dame de Laus!!! And I was SO happy to participate in “the light procession” and “Maria-celebration”!!! Next I didn’t follow Via Domitia to Gap and Tallard, but went “across” to Venterol and found l’Aphodele Eco-Gîte – a wonderful place, where there is always a six-bed-room available for pilgrims! Delicious vegetarian food prepared by the owner Christoph Ubaud. Next – again an extremely helpful TO, by the Via Ferrata in Le Caire!!! Lodging outside La Motte du Caire (Relais ‘equestre) and then - across the Terre Basse vally - I chose my own way – the road – and came across two monasteries: Brothers of St Jean and (by mistake – went wrong) also the sisters of St Jean! St Geniez (Relais équestre too). In Sisteron I had a reservation from home, as I went by train to Geneva the next day.

The waymarks are mostly very good, sometimes less good. There is often 2-3 different paths together, also very local ones, as fitness-parcours etc. When you see one mark here, another there, not all together at the same time, you think you maybe not noticed that “your” way deviated. That’s why I always bring good maps – also I can walk a road “around” instead of a steep, slippery path over a mountain.


I had a wonderful walk! No problems at all! I met with so many helpful people and experienced so much of generosity/friendliness. Maybe my appearance “a greyhaired small old woman with a big backpack” got their hearts to melt

 

[Josefine]

Great information PilgrimKia, very useful, in a couple of years I will walk this camino.
Josefine