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Viana

scruffy1

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Holy Year from Pamplona 2010, SJPP 2011, Lisbon 2012, Le Puy 2013, Vezelay (partial watch this space!) 2014; 2015 Toulouse-Puenta la Reina (Arles)
Viana is renowned for the three tiered bed of the albergue there, someone has written that the Hospitaleros there will give parachutes to those on the higher bunks – oops that was me! A nice enough place and after a hot hot day a better place to stop than say Logroño. The good people of Logroño think we pilgrims enjoy walking on asphalt into town, are intrigued by industrial zones, and someone might just buy that plant which prepares frozen chips, throwing their waste into the back yard to titillate the nostrils of all pilgrims who pass, what a smell!

I am reading a fascinating and rather gossipy historical account of a wonderful figure in Renaissance Italy in the book entitled "The Tigress of Forli: Renaissance Italy's Most Courageous and Notorious Countess, Caterina Riario Sforza de' Medici". The countess was a true Renaissance figure, the illegitimate child of the Sforza family in Milano who had no connection with the Camino but please bear with me. She was very intelligent, very well educated, and usually sensitive to those over whom she reigned. As regent for her son, Giovanni, she came to enjoy wielding power and refused to relinquish her position when he became of age to rule. Things went well until she was confronted by Cesare Borgia, the bastard son of Pope Alexander VI, one of eleven, those Renaissance guys had trouble with their zippers, well no zippers then, with their pantaloons. As a result, her lands were invaded, her fortress destroyed, and she herself was violated by General Borgia.

C. Borgia hoimself was doing not bad until he was confronted by a later successor to his father, Pope Julius II. C.B. was imprisoned then in 1504 he was transferred to Spain where after several adventures and misadventures he found himself leading a besieging army before the castle walls of Viana. There, he was ambushed, killed, and stripped of all his luxurious garments, valuables and left lying naked. End of story? Not quite.

Borgia was originally buried in a marbled mausoleum at the altar of the Church of Santa María in Viana. The tomb was destroyed sometime between 1523 and 1608, during which time Santa María was undergoing renovation and expansion. Tradition goes that a bishop of Calahorra considered inappropriate to have the remains of "that degenerate" lying in the church, so the opportunity was taken to tear down the monument and expel Borgia's bones to where they were reburied under the street in front of the church to be trodden on by all who walked through the town. The remains were exhumed and examined several times and in 1945 declared those of C.B. Whatever may have been left was finally moved back inside the church on 11 March 2007. In the courtyard of the church closeby the entrance may be seen:upload_2014-11-20_17-55-56.png

Cesare Borgia was quite a period piece, violent though attractive, lustful - he too fathered at least 11 illegitimate children, and as he lived, he died, a brutal, some say deserving, death. Do take the time to pop over and consider " Sic transit gloria mundi".
 

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Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
The first edition came out in 2003 and has become the go-to-guide for many pilgrims over the years. It is shipping with a Pilgrim Passport (Credential) from the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.
Viana is renowned for the three tiered bed of the albergue there, someone has written that the Hospitaleros there will give parachutes to those on the higher bunks – oops that was me! A nice enough place and after a hot hot day a better place to stop than say Logroño. The good people of Logroño think we pilgrims enjoy walking on asphalt into town, are intrigued by industrial zones, and someone might just buy that plant which prepares frozen chips, throwing their waste into the back yard to titillate the nostrils of all pilgrims who pass, what a smell!

I am reading a fascinating and rather gossipy historical account of a wonderful figure in Renaissance Italy in the book entitled "The Tigress of Forli: Renaissance Italy's Most Courageous and Notorious Countess, Caterina Riario Sforza de' Medici". The countess was a true Renaissance figure, the illegitimate child of the Sforza family in Milano who had no connection with the Camino but please bear with me. She was very intelligent, very well educated, and usually sensitive to those over whom she reigned. As regent for her son, Giovanni, she came to enjoy wielding power and refused to relinquish her position when he became of age to rule. Things went well until she was confronted by Cesare Borgia, the bastard son of Pope Alexander VI, one of eleven, those Renaissance guys had trouble with their zippers, well no zippers then, with their pantaloons. As a result, her lands were invaded, her fortress destroyed, and she herself was violated by General Borgia.

C. Borgia hoimself was doing not bad until he was confronted by a later successor to his father, Pope Julius II. C.B. was imprisoned then in 1504 he was transferred to Spain where after several adventures and misadventures he found himself leading a besieging army before the castle walls of Viana. There, he was ambushed, killed, and stripped of all his luxurious garments, valuables and left lying naked. End of story? Not quite.

Borgia was originally buried in a marbled mausoleum at the altar of the Church of Santa María in Viana. The tomb was destroyed sometime between 1523 and 1608, during which time Santa María was undergoing renovation and expansion. Tradition goes that a bishop of Calahorra considered inappropriate to have the remains of "that degenerate" lying in the church, so the opportunity was taken to tear down the monument and expel Borgia's bones to where they were reburied under the street in front of the church to be trodden on by all who walked through the town. The remains were exhumed and examined several times and in 1945 declared those of C.B. Whatever may have been left was finally moved back inside the church on 11 March 2007. In the courtyard of the church closeby the entrance may be seen:View attachment 14914

Cesare Borgia was quite a period piece, violent though attractive, lustful - he too fathered at least 11 illegitimate children, and as he lived, he died, a brutal, some say deserving, death. Do take the time to pop over and consider " Sic transit gloria mundi".
Recommend you stay in parochial albergue at Church of Santa María, although seasonal; we've enjoyed the lovely hospitality there twice. Worth sleeping on thin mattresses! Also, look for the "earthy" Nativity at the main door. Will attach a pic.
 

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Recommend you stay in parochial albergue at Church of Santa María, although seasonal; we've enjoyed the lovely hospitality there twice. Worth sleeping on thin mattresses! Also, look for the "earthy" Nativity at the main door. Will attach a pic.
Thanks! Always been closed or full when I passed, maybe next time!
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Recommend you stay in parochial albergue at Church of Santa María, although seasonal; we've enjoyed the lovely hospitality there twice. Worth sleeping on thin mattresses! Also, look for the "earthy" Nativity at the main door. Will attach a pic.
This was one of my favorite places to stay. The hospitalero was so funny and nice. He closed up the alburgue when we asked for lunch suggestions so he could walk us to his favorite spot. As an added bonus, he drank wine as described by Hemmingway in The Sun Also Rises...straight from the wine skin.
 
I want to stop in Viana on my camino. I just watched all 30+ episodes of "Borgia" on Netflix's. Cesare Borgia was one of the main characters in the show and they covered his life and ultimate death in Viana. In the epilog they showed the same grave stone you have in your post. Not sure I recommend the TV show unless you like a combinations of historical dramas, costume dramas and soap operas. :eek: I enjoyed it, I hate to admit. Now I need to stop in Viana to see Cesare Borgia's grave stone and where Cesare Borgia was killed.
 
A guide to speaking Spanish on the Camino - enrich your pilgrim experience.
My brother and I stayed in Viana on 26/04/2012. It was sunny but cold, we stayed in Casa Armendariz just before the albergue. One of the other pilgrims told us the bunks were three high in the albergue and having stayed in four high bunks in Thionville in 1976 I had no wish to repeat the experience at this age and without a parachute. The pilgrim meal for the albergue was held in the dining room of our casa and we had a great evening. Pleasant memories.
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.......... we stayed in Casa Armendariz just before the albergue. ................. The pilgrim meal for the albergue was held in the dining room of our casa and we had a great evening. Pleasant memories.
One of my favourite restaurants ..... the food is always good!
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When the weather is fine , sit outside and watch the pilgrims go by.
 
Stayed in Albergue Izar just as you enter Vianna. Good clean modern place but just me my son and Pierre from Paris in for the night. Breakfast supplied at a time agreed by us and the hospitalera looked after our washing for us. While we were out she took it out of the washing machine, into drier and had it ironed by the time we got back.
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
A Canadian (Richard) who I was walking with at the time and I entered Viana on the day of a farmers festival. Free nibbles/wine on trestles under the arches opposite the Church. As we approached these to see what was happening a voice behind me told the man behind the trestle to give us some wine. I turned to find the priest standing there. This was very fortunate as we had no idea where the enterance to the Parochial was. He directed us and after the wine we trudged , wet and cold across the square to the entrance in the corner. Entering and climbing up we came into the narrow hallway which serves as reception to be greeted by the hospitalero who insisted in taking us into the kitchen before registering. There he gave us a cup of hot soup and then another vino tinto! What a lovely welcoming! After settling in he said "follow me" to us and four others. We meekly did so thinking he was taking us to the mass. However we found ourselves following him us across the square to the bar opposite where more vino was to be partaken of. There is a notice informing people of the time that they had to be in the kitchen to help prepare the communal food. We duly turning up for duty but it was impossible to fulfil it as the kitchen was too small for more than a few of us. The ensuing meal was a very friendly affair. Any negative? Well unfortunately my mattress was under a radiator that was uncomfortably hot. However a good and memorable experience all round.
 
ACCOMMODATION IN VIANA

Here are some of my experiences,
Albergue Izar : A modern Private albergue found as you enter the town. Offers just about everything that a pilgrim needs with various tariffs starting at €8.
Very clean and tidy - Free WiFi. Basic breakfast offered for €3.Reccommended.

Parroquial Albergue: Small Parish albergue found in the main square, a small door in the very corner of the Santa Maria church. This is what the Camino is all about! Help volunteer hospitaleroes prepare the communal meal , sleep on mats , basic breakfast the next morning ......all for a donation. One of my best nights ever on the Camino. Highly Reccommended!! Hurry , only 18 plazas.

Albergue Andrés Munoz : Yes , the 3 teir Bunks but when I was last there a few years ago they were filling them up from the bottom and only when the first two tiers were full did they put anyone on the third teir. Found at the end of the main street next to The Ruins of San Pedro - a great location with a nice park next to it over looking Logróno. €8 but with a tad of a municipal attitude. Nice kitchen and very large dining/ living area . They did have some coin operated internet machines when I was last there. One can also use a computer free of charge in the Library only a few metres away.

Asun Apartamento rooms: found just outside the city ramparts in Calle Rueda. This my prefered spot. I have just spent two weeks here on holiday. There are two double rooms and two single rooms. There is a great kitchen with a washing machine. Ricardo will even sell you a bottle of his homemade vino for €2. There are 6 beds. The one single room has access to a landing with outdoor seating and tables - this is my favourite room. The whole apartment can be booked for under €100 per night so it is a great family or group option. I think that it is fantastic value - you own single room for €13! Highly Reccommended - here are some pics.

asun 1.jpg asun2.jpg
asun 3.jpg
 
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