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Visiting San Miguel de la Escalada near Mansilla de las Mula

peregrina2000

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As I was lying awake with my first day of jet lag going back over my just-finished camino, I was wishing I had been able to walk to San Miguel de la Escalada. Bloodied pinky toes made that impossible. If you are a fan of old (as in Tenth century) churches, you should find a way to visit this church. Just take a look on google. It's amazing.

And it occurred to me that the municipal albergue in Gradefes offers a solution for people walking on the Camino Frances. The church of San Miguel is about midway between Gradefes and Mansilla de las Mulas, so here is one way to add this little detour to your camino.

From Leon, take the bus that leaves at 6 pm for Gradefes. Call the phone number on the note on the door of the town hall office when you arrive and the mayor will open the albergue for you. You might also want to call the town hall earlier to let them know you will be coming -- 987-333 153. The town hall office closes for the day at 3 pm.

Gradefes is actually on the Camino Vadiniense (more on that later) and it has a great albergue, very new and modern, washing machine, two bedrooms with a few single beds each, living room and terrace. (Reb tells me it used to be the accommodations the town provided for the firefighters -- not sure I have that right, help me out, Reb). The next day, walk to Mansilla, about 25 km, stopping to visit San Miguel along the way. When you get back to Mansilla, hop on a bus back to Leon and you're ready to continue on the Frances the next day.

Gradefes is home to a very nice convent as well, which is also open to visitors.

It would also be possible to take the bus detour from Mansilla de las Mulas to Gradefes, but I'm having trouble finding the schedule. I know for a fact, though, that it's possible. Doing it that way would allow a visit to San Miguel before arriving in Leon.

Buen camino, wishing all recent peregrinos a good transition back home, Laurie
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Anyone who is a liturgy freak and/or into Mozarabic churches will find this worth the excursion. Its layout makes it very clear how this now-almost-extinct phenomenon of wester Christianity operated and, if you don't particularly care about these topics, the serenity of the location, the airy proportions of the building, and the cheerfully abstract carvings are enough to justify the detour.

There is a high-season café just before the church, but aside from Gradefes, there are precious few facilities in the area.
 
The first edition came out in 2003 and has become the go-to-guide for many pilgrims over the years. It is shipping with a Pilgrim Passport (Credential) from the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.
Thanks a bunch Laurie, just when I start making plans for a springtime Le Puy to SJPD and home again home again you remind me of San Miguel de la Escalada ! That’s either adding another 400-500k to my tired old legs or a 2014 deja vu Camino Frances all over again! The longest journey begins with but a single step but I may be becoming obsessed.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms

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