Viterbo

[Amy Mello]

I am excited to pick up our trail from Bolsena tomorrow for a short 3 days of walking. We have done two previous 12 day sections of the Francigena and hope to fill in the gaps this year. (We are living in Naples for a couple years so reaching the trail has gotten easier).

I noticed the Via Francigena website indicates the Viterbo - Vetralla main route is closed: https://www.viefrancigene.org/en/resource/statictrack/tappa-41-da-viterbo-a-vetralla/

It says "We suggest taking the B21 Viterbo-Vetralla variant (link) or the B21 Viterbo-Sutri variant (link)."

Anyone have advice on either of these variants? Any help appreciated.

As always this forum is an amazing asset. Thank you!
Amy Mello

PS: If anyone knows a taxi service in Bolsena we could also use that, we will be needing a cab from Orvieto to Bolsena

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Hi @Amy Mello,
I walked the VF from London to Rome in 2019. I'm pretty sure that was the section (Viterbo-Vetralla-Sutri) I got myself into a bit of a route pickle but I can't quite recall. Give me some time (you don't have much leaving tomorrow!), I'll go through my records to confirm & then edit this post with the details.
I may not be able to tell you what you should/could do, but I'll certainly be able to advise what not to do!
Stay tuned...

Edit: Here goes; the section I got into strife was Capranica to Sutri. Some how I missed the trail turn off or, probably more accurately, chose to go my own way (it was stiflingly hot, I was tired from walking 90 days & was over 'unnecessary' extra kilometre deviations by then...). I ended up walking along the main road with no way to get off it. Once I realised my mistake, I should have turned around & gone back...but I didn't.
I've walked roads which others have deemed risky or a danger & been quite comfortable. I also don't scare easily but this road was horrendous & very dangerous walking; not particularly wide, two way, busy, no shoulder, blind corners & crucially, vegetation right to the roads edge (trucks were 'pruning' the trees as they thundered past). I had some scarily close calls & on several occasions had to shove myself into the greenery to avoid joining the smashed bugs on radiator grilles of mega semi-trailers.
So, just goes to show, even with bucket loads of experience, you can still make mistakes...especially with heat & exhaustion. Whatever variant you end up taking Amy, do not opt for what seemed to be the easier road route...stick to the path!
Best wishes for the remaining days of your journey.

 

[Amy Mello]

Hi @Amy Mello,
I walked the VF from London to Rome in 2019. I'm pretty sure that was the section (Viterbo-Vetralla-Sutri) I got myself into a bit of a route pickle but I can't quite recall. Give me some time (you don't have much leaving tomorrow!), I'll go through my records to confirm & then edit this post with the details.
I may not be able to tell you what you should/could do, but I'll certainly be able to advise what not to do!
Stay tuned...

Edit: Here goes; the section I got into strife was Capranica to Sutri. Some how I missed the trail turn off or, probably more accurately, chose to go my own way (it was stiflingly hot, I was tired from walking 90 days & was over 'unnecessary' extra kilometre deviations by then...). I ended up walking along the main road with no way to get off it. Once I realised my mistake, I should have turned around & gone back...but I didn't.
I've walked roads which others have deemed risky or a danger & been quite comfortable. I also don't scare easily but this road was horrendous & very dangerous walking; not particularly wide, two way, busy, no shoulder, blind corners & crucially, vegetation right to the roads edge (trucks were 'pruning' the trees as they thundered past). I had some scarily close calls & on several occasions had to shove myself into the greenery to avoid joining the smashed bugs on radiator grilles of mega semi-trailers.
So, just goes to show, even with bucket loads of experience, you can still make mistakes...especially with heat & exhaustion. Whatever variant you end up taking Amy, do not opt for what seemed to be the easier road route...stick to the path!
Best wishes for the remaining days of your journey.

Yikes!! Ok very good to know. I'm looking at route maps now so this is well-timed advice and I will heed this. I'm also seeing a potential VF office in Viterbo so I will check with them as well on routes to avoid the road if they are open on Sunday. Thanks!!

 

[Purky]

I hope I'm not too late, but I had an interesting day getting out of Viterbo last year. I had opted for the Viterbo - Vetralla main route but found out that in my hurry to leave the city, I had been walking on the Cimino-variant to Sutri. It took 3 km to realise my mistake. So I backtracked to Viterbo and got on the main route.

Way into that route I was stopped by two Italian gentlemen who were counting and registering pilgrims. Apparently they were part of the team that was developing a Viterbo-Vetralla alternative, which sounds like the B21 Viterbo-Vetralla variant you describe.

According to these men this alternative has much more forest and after the initial climb it's just smooth sailing. I was still happy to have walked the main route, because of the Etruscan excavated roads it leads you through in the beginning of the route. Apart from that the Viterbo-Sutri variant was a no-go for me because of the length (32 km) and because I had made a reservation for a bed that night in Vetralla.

 

[Slow guy]

I just walked the Viterbo to Vetralla route yesterday. I don’t know what the B21 route is but I left town near the McDonalds on Via San Paolo - and then took the variant up the sunken road - it was easy to follow from the Cathedral in Viterbo down behind the back of the Papal Palace and out to the gate at Via San Paolo.
It was a lovely walk.