LIVE from the Camino Voie des Capitales - part 2

[roving_rufus]

So last summer I headed from Cherbourg to Mont Saint Michel from where there is a marked route to Santiago. Actually there are 2 but I chose the voie des Capitales. So last August I reached the far edge of Nantes in Vertou.
Today I flew back to Nantes and took a bus out to Vertou and restarted. Roughly the route follows the river and very soon I was out of the urban area of greater Nantes and into countryside with fields, orchards and most importantly vineyards (producing muscadet). Some tarmac but mainly pleasant enough paths - thankfully fairly shaded with the current hot weather.!
But it was a short walk of 11km just to Le Gue Joubert - which was good as my flight was delayed and I only started walking after 18h/6pm.
I am staying in a AirBnb room as I didn't want to take a chance on a pilgrim host on my first night in France. (There is an active pilgrim association in this Loire area with a good list of pilgrim hosts along the route).
But very excited for my proper first full day tomorrow

 

[mspath]

roving _rufus,
Welcome back to France.
Looking forward to foĺlowing your camino as you post.
Take care tomorrow since the weather will be quite warm as you start out.
Bon chemin and ,as always, Ultreia.

 

[roving_rufus]

DAY 2 So I have arrived in Montagui after 30km - and I stopped more times in the last 5km than the first 25km it felt- just to get out of sun and cool down for a few minutes.
I left at 6.30 on lovely shady paths following the river to Monnieres- and the joy of every pilgrim heart especially outside the CF the bar was open at 7am! And even had a pilgrim stamp too! (There is even a pilgrim gite here).
The next section of 8km traversed vineyards (and train tracks) but too early for any wine tasting. I arrived in Clisson where there is an old Chapel of Saint Jacques though now is a community space but does have a pleasant garden. It was market day and plus a visit to a bakery for my first croissant of this trip, so I am rather weighted down with food. Clisson is a very pretty little town with a castle, river, Italianate style church (with a tap!) and also an italianate chateau and gardens. It looks like a nice place to waste away an afternoon but unfortunately limited pilgrim hosts ( and be aware Clisson is home in mid-June to Hellfest -a metal festival which draws huge crowds)
At the edge of Clisson there is a farewell sign to pilgrims from the Loire Atlantique association and a very lovely welcome statue for pilgrims to Vendee. Now is a switch to a new guide, slightly different markings and a new list of accomodations. http://www.vendeecompostelle.org/blg/wp/

I did make a bit of a shortcut leaving the river earlier than the marked route. After a further village the route was on shaded paths between arable and pastoral fields - lots of bales of hay cut and ready. But then came a few kilometres of road walking which was fine but I was ready to take a break and couldn't find anywhere suitable. But moving onto track I soon found a shaded spot for a break. But the shade was short lived, the last 4km had little shade, I even cracked out my uv umbrella. I decided to stop every 15 minutes in the shade the last few kilometres- it was probably overly cautious but then again I was in no rush (I can only arrive at my accommodation after 4pm).
And here is the disadvantage of walking in France- lunch is early, - oh for a 2pm menu del dia lunch in Spain- so I am picnic-ing in the park, though French baked goods are helping!

 

[Kirkie]

DAY 2 So I have arrived in Montagui after 30km - and I stopped more times in the last 5km than the first 25km it felt- just to get out of sun and cool down for a few minutes.
I left at 6.30 on lovely shady paths following the river to Monnieres- and the joy of every pilgrim heart especially outside the CF the bar was open at 7am! And even had a pilgrim stamp too! (There is even a pilgrim gite here).
The next section of 8km traversed vineyards (and train tracks) but too early for any wine tasting. I arrived in Clisson where there is an old Chapel of Saint Jacques though now is a community space but does have a pleasant garden. It was market day and plus a visit to a bakery for my first croissant of this trip, so I am rather weighted down with food. Clisson is a very pretty little town with a castle, river, Italianate style church (with a tap!) and also an italianate chateau and gardens. It looks like a nice place to waste away an afternoon but unfortunately limited pilgrim hosts ( and be aware Clisson is home in mid-June to Hellfest -a metal festival which draws huge crowds)
At the edge of Clisson there is a farewell sign to pilgrims from the Loire Atlantique association and a very lovely welcome statue for pilgrims to Vendee. Now is a switch to a new guide, slightly different markings and a new list of accomodations. http://www.vendeecompostelle.org/blg/wp/

I did make a bit of a shortcut leaving the river earlier than the marked route. After a further village the route was on shaded paths between arable and pastoral fields - lots of bales of hay cut and ready. But then came a few kilometres of road walking which was fine but I was ready to take a break and couldn't find anywhere suitable. But moving onto track I soon found a shaded spot for a break. But the shade was short lived, the last 4km had little shade, I even cracked out my uv umbrella. I decided to stop every 15 minutes in the shade the last few kilometres- it was probably overly cautious but then again I was in no rush (I can only arrive at my accommodation after 4pm).
And here is the disadvantage of walking in France- lunch is early, - oh for a 2pm menu del dia lunch in Spain- so I am picnic-ing in the park, though French baked goods are helping!
View attachment 148773View attachment 148775 View attachment 148776

I am delighted to be following you once more. Smart cookie, resting, escaping into shade, and well done on the brolly!

 

[Matthew Fitzhenry]

Clisson is so beautiful

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 3 Montagui to Vendrennes
So Montagui was a nice town (except the supermarket is at the edge of town) with nice parks, and old ramparts etc- and a very nice town centre with cute boutiques plus a new cheese shop that just open this month! (So obviously I had to try some Vendee cheese!) I had been disappointed leaving Clisson but Montagui sufficiently made up for it.

But leaving at 6am isn't so nice. I did take a shortcut this morning taking a bike path to the next town - ( the marked route has a high percentage of tarmac and just a little more river). But back to the river in a park in St Georges de Montagui- and gravel then dirt paths. But then the start of a pattern - climb up away from river and then drop back down to it. But a lovely few kilometres before join a road! However, the Chapel of La Roche Pepin in the next hamlet was a highlight as it was completely restored from a ruin by the village about 20 years ago, and the door was open before 8am! It's a mishmash of stuff inside but a real sense that it is the village's, and lots of shells to welcome pilgrims.
More road until we reach another river at Pont Lege and then we follow the river which then becomes a reservoir which proved to be a very delightful section walking by water and trees.
But don't worry it's soon back to road walking through fields! About 5km to Saint Fulgent which has all required services - there has been nowhere to get water today so I was carrying 2 1/2 litres. Even in supermarket by florist area there was a tap! Picked up lunch supplies and headed to far end of town and a park (toilets with a tap at entrance).

But still had 5.5km left and it was hot! The road was radiating heat- after 3km I when I was wilting I suddenly was signed onto a gravel track for 1km -heaven! Coming into Vendrennes a park provided respite in the shade to gather myself before town. First stop the bakery (the shop is closed on Wednesday ) and then the campsite. A swim was a delightful end to the afternoon. And as it was so hot they gave me a pitch with a deck with a full sunshade!

 

[VNwalking]

Hoping you can stay cool, @roving_rufus.
Bon chemin!

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 4 Vendrennes to Vilde 26km
Apart from a short section early in the day in woods (part of the park of a chateau with lots of instructions about hunting season) the rest was through gentle French countryside of fields of grain and cows. Pleasant and gentle ( except for a fraction too much road walking). Chantonnay was the big town of the day and I enjoyed lunch in a new restaurant with a big bowl of pasta with prawns enough to fuel any pilgrim! Not much to see in town itself - church, park, tourist office and a trip to supermarket. But I couldn't check in until 7pm so I had time to kill....but that backfired as just after leaving town fr last 3.5km the rain started- initially I took shelter under a tree but then decided an open garage looked a better option in the downpour. So I am trying a different option tonight called homecamper - people rent space in their gardens for tents or camper vans etc. So far so good in the small village of Vilde...but its 8pm and as I slept poorly last night I am ready to slerp

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 5 Vilde to Fourchaud/Bourneau 30km

I set tent up and thought I will lie down for 10 minutes then I will shower, eat etc. Well 11.30pm I woke up and went straight back to sleep... I will just smell!
Just got tent packed up before the rain started this morning. I could have stayed in bed too! But it meant I had to walk in the rain 🌧.
Today's marked route is inspired by a GR with a few tweaks - but is started with a lot of road, but actually had lots of paths, lanes and tracks today. One section of wood for about an hour was a brightener for the day and it stopped raining in the woods long enough for me to enjoy a "coffee break" at a picnic table - no coffee as couldn't use my stove in such a wood (is it sad to say that I excited that the next three days a bar should provide coffee after 2 hours of walking) And as today was inspired by the GR it avoided two villages - I veered into one as it wasn't really a detour Saint Lawrence de la Salle - lovely village with toilets and water, and lovely church, and even a special bench for pilgrims, and got credential stamped in the mairie (I think there might even be a pilgrim gite here from what she said). I didn't go to the other but it does have a bar.
But onwards... I wanted to make progress when the rain had stopped. Unfortunately 20 minutes later ...rain. It became a heads down let's get on with it day. Found at sports ground outside Borneau a nice covered area and finally sat down in the dry and ate my lunch. Then headed into village- it has one of the chateaus featured in Chateau DIY in case you are a fan.. but the local bar and bakery are all closed down. Just a last 2km to my destination in Fourchaud... and to hosts who welcome pilgrims - this is really common in France and local associations work hard to create lists of such people who will let pilgrims stay a night and maybe feed them dinner too- for less travelled routes these lists are a lifesaver!

 

[mla1]

Hi Roving Rufus - I am really enjoying reading your posts. Thanks for taking the time to write. I had never heard of homecamper before - it seems like it might make this route easier to negotiate! The list of hosts also! Hope you have a good evening!

 

[roving_rufus]

Hi Roving Rufus - I am really enjoying reading your posts. Thanks for taking the time to write. I had never heard of homecamper before - it seems like it might make this route easier to negotiate! The list of hosts also! Hope you have a good evening!

The lists are incredibly! I,ve used the ones for the Chemin de Mont Saint Michel for Cherbourg to the Mont, then the Bretagne pilgrims are extremely organised with lists and developing pilgrim gites. Equally the Vendee association seems to be actively promoting the route with a new municipal pilgrim gite opened this year in Surgeres, and have lots of pilgrim benches and picnic tables starting to appear - and a fairly decent list including discounts in some campings and chambre d'hotes.
Homecamper was new to me too -another pilgrim told me about it and last night was my first time using it.

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 6 Fourchaud to St Pierre le Vieux 23km

So I had a wonderful stay with my hosts- they have walked several caminos, and in addition to hosting pilgrims the husband maintains the local camino way markers. A fabulous dinner in their garden and an early night in a comfy bed, breakfast and chocolate cake for a picnic too. A wonderful time! Such hosts make walking in France delightful!

So it was misty this morning and I am going completely off piste today heading to Fontenay le Comte. A lovely stroll in the forest, then by the river, an old railway and finally by the river into town. Fontenay is described as one of those undiscovered gems worth a detour to in Vendee - it is a very pretty riverside town, huge church - I enjoyed my wander through but the exit was busy and more industrial. Then the landscape change to flat plains of wheat before reaching Souil and the outer edge of the marais (marshes).
The last 2km to Souil through the fields I kept chanting 2km to Souil and the bar. But the bar was at the far end of town and I just got in before she closed up (no lingering!). But just outside of town was a lovely park beside the river - nice to chill in the shade...just 1km to my campsite now to finish up.

 

[TMcA]

Trop de goudron pour moi, Rufus.

Good writing style. Thanks.

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 7 St Pierre le Vieux to La Greve sur Mignon 21km
So this morning until 11am was one of those perfect mornings for walking -overcast, dry and warm enough for shorts and t-shirt. Delightful! At 11am the sun came out and by 12noon it was hot and I was glad to be stopping with my short day.
Today is the Marais Poitevin - a marsh area that was drained with multiple canals over centuries. Its known as "Venise Verte"- Green Venice. And it was pleasant, easy flat walking on a mix of surfaces by canals. Plus quirky things like the Maille Aqueduct which prevents the waters from the Vix and the Autise mixing, to separate the waters from the dry marshes and the wet marshes.

I think if I was planning again I think I would stay in Maille, its a cute little town on the water with boats (plus a bakery, a brewery, creperie, and a bar either a mini epicerie/grocery) but onwards I went along canals for another 13km to reach La Greve sur Mignon - which is off route (but I decided to follow the path along the canal rather than a road walk into St Hilaire la Palud were the official road goes). So I am in La Frenaie campsite and staying in a yurt - €4.50 more than a pitch but gives me a bed and access to a kitchen which seemed like a much better deal than putting up tent and cooking on my little alcohol stove. (They actually make the yurts locally here).
Far few tourists than Venice at least, and all the green is very relaxing, I could happily spend a few days on holidays here walking and messing around on flat bottomed boats (no fancy gondolas here!)

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 8 La Greve sur Mignon to Surgeres 23km
It was definitely a day of two halves for walking.
This morning I set off along the canalised River Mignon, on lovely grassy lanes, enjoying the early morning, for 10km until Mauze sur Mignon, in quiet and peace.
In less than an hour of starting I rejoined the marked route and with it new signage as now in a different region- this uses the style of GR markings but in yellow and blue and is much easier to see than the yellow shells on blue stickers i have now gotten used to. But by Mauze sur Mignon the signage disappeared, and was pretty minimal until the centre if Surgeres. ( I had been warned by the Vendee association that the signage in the last section of the Voie Capitales is limited- and i was glad of gpx tracks and notes from the association's website.)
The second half of the walk from Mauze to Surgeres was less pleasant- 12km of road through wheat fields. Not terrible but it was just marching onwards to Surgeres with its promised castle, romanseque church and a restaurant for dinner. And Surgeres didn't disappoint- in fact the menu de jour had the largest slice of tart I've seen on such a set menu -in this case tarte Normande with its apples and custard and I scoffed the lot.
It was getting hot but the grounds of the old castle have been adapted over the years and include the mairie in a chateau, a romanseque church, a rose garden and lots of trees so was pleasant to stroll around. Got my stamp from the mairie, bought some groceries. Then headed out to the halte jacquerie- this is the municipal pilgrim gite, and is open less than a year. Its a bit of a faff to book - its done online and you email a photo of your credential, and they respond with the two door codes for the building. However, for €10 it is a steal with a kitchen and a back garden, and I have it all to myself!

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 9 Surgeres to Saint Savinien 31km
So the first and last sign I saw for this route was the brand new shiny one in the centre of Surgeres- not a single other marker. I was relying on route notes and gpx completely.
After yesterday's horrible afternoon storms, more were forecast for today so I set off at 5.30am hoping to beat them out. The first 18.5km to Tonnay-Boutonne were mainly on tracks and grass lanes. And I timed it perfectly - coming into town I could see black clouds, and I was across the street from the bar when the first big drops of rain fell. So I had an extended coffee break, but it was all over in 30 minutes-rain, thunder and lightning.
So onwards, I decided due to threats of thunderstorms to shortcut the next section reducing by 1.5km but also meant I missed about 2km of lanes and staying on the road. It did mean I also arrived in Saint Savinien for lunch (France starts serving lunch at 12noon and really you need to be sitting down by around 1pm-ish in many places). Now feeling quite full - it is off to the campsite (by way of the shop and bakery) and hoping for no more thunderstorms!

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 10 St Savinien to La Clise 23km
So it's a decision day - the Voie des Capitales is ending, and the choice to continue is either the Voie de Tours (connecting in Saintes) or taking a connector to Royan and the Voie Littoral. Well it's not really decision day - I had already decided on the Voie Littoral. However, the official route to the connector reminded me of a triangle- I do have a degree in Maths but I suspect Pythagoras and triangles and hypotenuse probably remain buried in many people's brains. Today was a practical use as I cut out 10km going off on my own route (but saved a lot of road walking) on a hypotenuse rather than on 2 sides of a triangle ️.

Today feels like it had three sections to the walk. So I started off by the river on some track but mainly road to reach Crazannes - it was that golden light and a wispy mist on the river sort of morning. The section ended at old stone quarries that are now a visitor attraction at La Pierre de Crazannes- it has a tour of the old workings but this is matched with work of a local sculpting grouping. While the stone picnic tables and the sculptures I could see seemed interesting unfortunately the forecast for 30°C rather indicated that waiting around for 2hours for it open probably wasn't wise.
But this started part 2 of the day - grass lanes and tracks but along the motorway- easy on the feet not so easy on the ears.
Part 3 - was connecting with the official "Connector" to Royan and was more camino-esque hopping from one village to the next to the next- some road, some off road- plus theses villages had between them a couple of restaurants, a bar, bakery, shop. Only issue of the day was the last 2km on the road in the noonday heat just were tough going.
In case of interest the local association provides information on their website about the route from Mauze sur Mignon to Saintes and the Connector to Royan (There is no route marking really on the ground so their info is vital!)

http://www.compostelle17.fr/crbst_20.html

 

[roving_rufus]

Day 11 La Clisse to Royan 30km
So I started off route this morning and decided I could create a much shorter route myself but it was all road (the actual route is heavy on road this section too). After 16km I reached Saujon. It seemed a nice town to potter with a few cafes and restaurants on the river. I had researched it had a steam train t on a now redundant line- bit with the hot weather I had decided it wasn't really possible. But I was kicking myself as today was grey this morning and about 20°C all day.
But suitable refreshed in a cafe plus a ham and cheese croissant from bakery (yum!) I departed and headed onwards. I was delighted to find route markings for the Chemin de saint jacques in the newer blue and yellow line style- there is an enthusiastic local volunteer who I am thankful to for this -it makes walking so much easier!!!
After a few kilometres the route moves onto lanes in woods and fields for a long distance. Before a nasty bit of windy road with fast enough traffic that leads to the very outskirts of town. Then a last few kilometres through Royan to reach the sea.
Royan is interesting - it was a popular seaside resort with a wide array of villas (some remain) but it was rebuilt in 1950s as heavily bombarded in WW2. The rebuilding architecture used concrete and influenced by a Brazilian architect Niemeyer- it was very modern at the time. The market is round and supposed to invoke a sail ( the story goes money ran out for this project and the locals had a whip around to get it finished they were so proud of its modern design). Even the large church is concrete and unique and I could see its unique shaped towers several kilometres before Royan on a hill. But its a nice town to visit!
And tomorrow a new route - Voie Littoral!

 

[roving_rufus]

Reflections on Part Two of Voie des Capitales

1- a little bit too much road walking on this part but still plenty of nice tracks, lanes and paths. And relatively easy with no big hills etc meaning 30km days were possible. Quite a lot of this was through farmland but interspersed with enough rivers, vineyards, woods and marais/marsh to make it interesting. A few of my deviations I would recommend such as walking along canal from Lidon to Mauze sur Mignon (rather than heading to Saint Hilaire). There are a few longer loops that too might be trimmed as often the route follows a GR or a GRP which tend to avoid roads as much as possible but in doing so can add significant kilometres for a few hundred metres of quiet road- so take your pick - longer lane or shorter more direct road. (I found this also true on Via Francigena in France)

2- I found some delightful small towns along the way - I liked Maille, Surgeres, Clisson, Montagui particularly. Plenty of history too!

3- Both the Loire Atlantique and Vendee associations were great with online resources including guide notes, gpx tracks, and accomodation lists, as well as actively maintaining route markings. In the area covered by the Charente Maritime association currently route markings are extremely limited and other resources will need to be relied upon. The accomodation lists are especially helpful - it would be entirely possible to walk this route relying on pilgrim gites and pilgrim hosts (except maybe more tricky after Surgeres). I did camp which added flexibility and reduced costs (but I need the tent for Voie Littoral). Pilgrim hosts are such a wonderful experience and should not be missed!

4- the pilgrim hosts on Fourchaud told me their previous pilgrim in May was Spanish and spoke no French. However, the more French you can speak the easier it will be! My French is rusty school-level but more than sufficient for the basics and it will improve by the end of my trip. Quite a few pilgrim hosts give mobile phone numbers and it was easier to text first, then follow up with phonecall if needed.

5- you will need to carry more supplies than on some of the Spanish routes. Water taps don't exist in every village ( though ask a local and generally they will fill a bottle). As it was hot I was carrying 1.5litres and refilling every chance - and one day I had a further 1litre collapsible bottle too. Shops, bars, bakeries have closing days, may close for lunch or the afternoon (even randomly), or for 2 weeks of holidays. You could get unlucky, so I always have food in my rucksack that will get me through at least a full day.


All in all having already passed the excitement of the "Capitales" last summer with Rennes and Nantes- I actually quite enjoyed this quieter stroll in French countryside through delightful towns and villages.