Walking 9 days from SJPDP - places not to miss?

[Kimmy]

I am planning to do a short camino from SJPDP mid September 2013. Which towns, albergues and historical sights should I not miss? During my last camino (in 2006) I was in a mental hyrry and was speed walking, thus missed lots of what the Camino had to offer. Now I wonder if you have any tips what I should not miss apart from the spontaneous meetings and such.

 

[billmclaughlin]

Where you stay will depend more on your speed and feet and companions, so I'll just make this general suggestion.

Wander off the path. If you look closely at how the arrows and shells route us through a place like Logrono, you'll see we're led along the outside edge like rats scurrying along the wall. That may be an authentic route based on the main street of the city in centuries past, but unless you're trying to avoid the real world of contemporary Spain, you're better off wondering through on your own path. See the main square outside the Cathedral. I enjoyed the early morning scene, people getting their kids off to school, etc. It's a far richer experience.

Similarly I've seen people "on the path" experience only a few streets of the old section of Pamplona. Atmospheric? Yes. But there's a beautiful and very spacious city just steps away if you lift your head. Why wouldn't a hiker want to take advantage of the broad traffic-free streets of Pamplona's pedestrian zone?

If nature's your thing, you'll be happy to skirt the cities and get through them as quickly as possible. But if you want to see a bit more of Spain than that, get off the path!

 

[Kimmy]

I have been to Spain many times and mainly want to focus on the camino this time, with minimal time in the cities. What I am hoping for is to get suggestions about small villages worth a stay, albergues with a special or spiritual ambiance, places of cultural importance or other ways worth a detour or an extra hour spent. I suppose 9 days will take me to Logrono and perhaps a little bit further ( flying out of Bilbao). Would really appreciate all suggestions.

 

[SYates]

Here some suggestions, hope it helps, but bear in mind that everybody is different and that the Camino provides for everybody differently. So, perhaps not to plan too much and going with the flow would be my best tip. As for the others:

Roncesvalles: Pilgrim Mass and blessing plus meeting your fellow pilgrims, often for the first time, over the pilgrim's menu.

Burguette: Ernest Hemingway stayed here frequently, perhaps just sitting in a bar and reading one of his stories for a bit?

Zubiri: Puente de la Rabia (rabies Bridge), in medieval times people believed that leading animals under the bridge would cure them from / prevent rabies. A good moment to be thankful for the achievements of modern medicine.

Trinidad de Arre: Parish refuge directly at the bridge, mass and morning prayer.

Cizur Menor: The albergue of the Order of Malta, common meals.

Eunate: A little detour as it is on the Camino de Navarra, but worthwhile even if the church could be closed.

Puente la Reina: Iglesia del Crucifijo near the parish refuge.

Estella: Albergue Anfas http://www.albergueanfas.org/en_inicio.php?tipo=1&id=2

Irache Monastery: The Wine Fountain ;-)

Los Arcos: Pilgrim Mass and Blessing

Torres del Rio: The octagonal Templar Church.

Viana: Parish refuge with shared meals and pilgrims prayer.

Logrono: Celebrating life in the Calle Laurel with tapas and Rioja wine ;-)

Buen Camino, SY

 

[skilsaw]

+1 SYates suggestions.

 

[Kimmy]

Re: Walking 9 days from SJPDP - what not to miss?

Thanks for your post SYates! Exactly the kind of info I was hoping for. I do not wish to plan out my camino in beforehand, nor book albergues in advance. However it is nice to know more about the area one is walking through. Last time I knew nearly nothing about anything... I will read about the history of these places and keep the info in the back of my mind, and see if they fit into the days once I am on the road.

Since I am so eager to go and so many weeks until my camino is due I will simply have to put all my planning energy into getting a slim and light backpack as possible.

 

[SYates]

Re: Walking 9 days from SJPDP - what not to miss?

Thanks for your post SYates! Exactly the kind of info I was hoping for. I do not wish to plan out my camino in beforehand, nor book albergues in advance. However it is nice to know more about the area one is walking through. Last time I knew nearly nothing about anything... I will read about the history of these places and keep the info in the back of my mind, and see if they fit into the days once I am on the road.

Since I am so eager to go and so many weeks until my camino is due I will simply have to put all my planning energy into getting a slim and light backpack as possible.

You are welcome ;-) Two more tips: Read up all what you like on art, history, culture ect but try to stay away from books / reports about other people's experiences. If not you might expect your own Camino to be like the one of Paulo Cuehlo or Shirley MacLaine ;-) And when you have your packing list ready, it might be a good idea to post it here and to ask for feedback. Buen Camino! SY

 

[Kimmy]

I agree with you SYates. Last time I was behaving like speedy Gonzales and this time I just want to chill and enjoy having no plans and no musts, except form making some kms a day. Hopefully I will manage to keep it like that.

As for packing I was thinking the same as I usually have on my 4 days hikes, but maybe a little bit less since I don't need dressy clothes. 6 kg maximum incl 1 litre water and a 30 litre backpack is what I am aiming for (I am quite small and use a dress as evening wear, which definitely keep down the weight and size). On my previous Camino (2006) I started out with 12 kg (had not read anything about the camino before I started) with a big and old "traveling-around-the-world-backpack" with lots of items that I soon found out were not necessary at all. It did not take me many days to realise that the less we carry the easier path. So this time I will keep it extremely light and simple.

 

[Olivares]

..historical sights should I not miss?

I definitely recommend a WONDERFUL book written by husband and wife team, David Gitlitz and Linda Davidson, titled "The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago de Compostela". This book contains incredibly detailed historical notes of sights and items along the Camino that you would just walked by and totally missed otherwise. This book has made my Camino experience exponentially richer. It not only provides excellent details and descriptions, but it also includes suggested worthwhile feasible detours (1-2 Kms) from the Camino trail. To illustrate my point, one of my favorites " findings" was this roadside cross pole we walked by on our way to Santo Domingo de Calzada. Well, this inocuous pole everybody was walking by and paying zero attention was actually a medieval cross from where malefactors were hanged and left as a warning to pilgrims. I felt so good that David and Linda told me that . Another one: the ruins of a 9th Century Monastery by a wheat field outside Belorado-- at one time this building was one of the most important religious institutions in Northern Spain. I knew that-- so many walked by and didn't.... :wink: This book explained religious art you will see as you walked by, architecture and its relevance, historical perspective; seriously, this book "takes the cake" [/b

 

[Kimmy]

Thanks Olivares for the tip! I will definitely check that book out. Looks like something I would read during summer when preparing for my trip. Sounds like a nice and informative read.

 

[DurhamParish]

Thanks SYates for the list of things to see. I am planning to walk for a couple of weeks from SJPdP to "wherever" next spring, then finish to Santiago the following year. I had worried and worried about how far I could make it in that amount of time, hoping to at least get "halfway". I think now I'm just going to maybe aim for Burgos and take my time and enjoy the experience of the Camino.

The year after that I'll just start "wherever".

 

[Kimmy]

To walk to "wherever" sounds like a perfect plan. I think that is what the Camino is all about. Too much planning will not gain you. Of course some logistics needs to be taken care of - as where to start and where to fly home from (and maybe how to get to that place).

 

[Kanga]

I second this recommendation - by far the most interesting and useful book in my Camino collection. It is not a "route guide" but a library of the cultural treasures, stories, history and interesting odd bits along the trail.

..historical sights should I not miss?

I definitely recommend a WONDERFUL book written by husband and wife team, David Gitlitz and Linda Davidson, titled "The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago de Compostela". This book contains incredibly detailed historical notes of sights and items along the Camino that you would just walked by and totally missed otherwise. This book has made my Camino experience exponentially richer. It not only provides excellent details and descriptions, but it also includes suggested worthwhile feasible detours (1-2 Kms) from the Camino trail. ; seriously, this book "takes the cake" [/b