Walking first Camino Sept/Oct. Loads of questions.

[IvySkye]

Hi,

I've dreamt of walking the Camino for over 10 years. This year things are conspiring to make it happen. I live in the US. My sister and I will be flying in and out of Paris. We've allowed 45 days for this venture.

1.) What are the best routes/modes of transportation to get to SJPP?

2.) The backpack I purchased is a Gregory Inyo 35 XS. (weighs 3 lbs.) Is a 35 liter big enough, or should I get the 45 (only ads 4 oz. for the additional 10 liters of space.) I've packed the 35 with everything I "think" I need and it all fits, but after reading several suggested packing lists, I may be missing some items. (Currently, packed and not counting water the weight is at 12 lbs. I really want to keep it at no more than 16 as I am petite.)

3.) Boots or hiking shoes? Leather or Gortex?

4.) Walking poles? I've never hiked with them before.

5.) Has anyone walked in October? Just how much rain can I expect?

6.) Along those lines, Poncho, rain gear, rain pants? What is necessary?

We are also going to travel on to Fisterre.

7.) Any suggestions on the best transport back to Paris?

I KNOW I will have more questions, but at the moment this are the ones swimming around in my brain. Thank you all in advance for your input.

 

[FatmaG]

Hi,
just quickly some answers, others will follow, as there are plenty of experienced people on that forum willing to help...

1) from Paris to SJPdP : the easiest might be the train to Bayonne (fast train TGV) then a local train to Saint Jean (from the airport Charles de Gaulle to the train stations, take a metro or eventually RER)

3) for the Camino Frances, I'd say the ones you are the most comfortable with. I had some Goretex boots (half 'height'), super light and comfortable, but I could have perfectly walked with other ones as well. It is not a mountain way and many people don't wear boots and are fine without them.

4) I have found a wooden stike in Saint Jean and it was great.

6) Poncho, rain jacket and eventually gaiters.

7) there is a relatively cheap flight from Santiago to Paris by "vueling.com"

Buen camino!!!

Fatma G

 

[markss]

It is entirely possible to run into snow in the mountains in October; in any event some cold weather is probable. This is not only true in the Pyrenees but in the mountain pass going into Galicia as well. With that in mind you may want to include a pair of gloves and other cold weather clothing in your packing gear. Clothing designed for running in cold weather is generally light weight, wicks moisture away from the body, is fast drying and very effective for keeping warm. A good local running store in your area can help guide you.

As for shoes, although some may recommend boots, I personally found that trail runners were not only adequate but preferable as they are easier to walk in and faster drying after getting wet. Goretex may be the way to go as these will tend to stay dryer and keep your feet warmer.

As far as a poncho, get one of good quality. This can not only serve to protect against rain but aid to buffer wind and cold that you may encounter from time to time along the way. Cheaper ponchos can rip apart too easily in strong winds and rain - just when it is most in need.

Having said all of that, you are probably going at one of the most delightful times of year. In general it should neither be too hot nor too cold; crowds will have diminished yet everything will remain lively along the way. Your experience is sure to exceed all of your expectations during the many years of anticipation.

Buen Camino!

 

[Anniesantiago]

Congratulations on your Camino! I bet you are excited!

Well, I thought I'd toss in my two cents on your questions so here are my answers:

1.) What are the best routes/modes of transportation to get to SJPP?

I agree with the train. It's a wonderful, beautiful trip and I suggest a day train, not a night train, as it will introduce you to the Spanish landscape which is spectacular!

2.) The backpack I purchased is a Gregory Inyo 35 XS. (weighs 3 lbs.) Is a 35 liter big enough

YES! Do not get the bigger pack, a 35 liter pack is more than enough. If it's too full, leave some things home.. maybe you want to post your packing list and we can comment?

3.) Boots or hiking shoes? Leather or Gortex?

I vote neither! In my opinion, boots are overkill. There's no trail on the Camino that I would think requires boots. There is more walking than hiking. Also, leather boots will be cold, wet, and stiff in the morning. Goretex are awfully expensive. Trail shoes will be dry. I've walked several Caminos and I use New Balance trail shoes. They are lightweight, have wonderful shock absorption, dry quickly, and I buy New Balance's gel inserts as well. Buy them 1 size too large. Take your wool socks and liners when you try them on. They also have a "shoe last" with a very deep toe box, which is perfect for such long walking because it allows your toes to SPREAD and not rub against each other, causing blisters. For more information on those shoes, see my "myspace" blog.

In the end, what is important is that your shoes are well broken in and are plenty big, because your feet WILL swell. Blisters will stop you in your tracks. Shoes, in my opinon, are one of the costliest and most important items when planning your trip. If your feet aren't happy, your Camino will not be happy.

4. Poles Not necessary if you've never used them. Pick up a nice stick along the way. They are inexpensive, sturdy, and make a lovely momento.

5. Rain gear. (this computer isn't working) Depends on you. I suggest you spend the money on a poncho that covers you and your pack. Do a search and you'll find lots of information on here about that. If you are cold natured (I am) then you may want to go to your local Goodwill store and check out the Active Wear section and pick up a pair of lighweight rain pants. Makes a huge difference when there's cold sideways rain!

 

[colinPeter]

Hi IvySkye,
Happy Planning, it's an exciting time getting ready for your first Camino.
My thoughts on a couple of your questions.

1) What are the best routes/modes of transportation to get to SJPP?
Next time I would probably take the train option as suggested. However, as time was an issue we caught the shuttle bus from Charles De Gaulle (International) to Orly (Domestic) airport and a flight to Biarritz (Bayonne) then Bus or taxi into Bayonne and train to SJPP.

2) Is a 35 liter big enough, or should I get the 45?
Although I agree that 35 litre is big enough, most people focus on the fact that you might be tempted to fill the bag with stuff you don't need. We took Osprey Kestrels (48 Litre) but only packed 8-9 kgs, but the larger pack was great for 1) Not having to cram sleeping bags & gear every morning 2) Being good for carrying your bread & fruit and daily stuff.

3) Boots or hiking shoes? Leather or Gortex?
My preference is light weight, waterproof, some ankle support (lots of uneven surfaces).

4) Walking poles? I've never hiked with them before.
This might depend on age & fitness but I would most definetly recommend a set of light weight poles, I found them brilliant.

5) Has anyone walked in October?
Not yet but hope to next time.

6) Poncho, rain gear, rain pants? What is necessary?
We took Jacket, rain pants & Ultra-Sil Tarp-Poncho - Sea To Summit (very light & expensive) & used everything at some stage. Next time I will take just an Altus raincoat (plus light jacket) (You will find a lot of posts about altus rain coat on this site)

Buen Camino
Col

 

[Diefenbaker]

Hi,
with regards to boots or shoes, I bought a pair of boots for the camino and was glad I did as although you are only going 'walking' some parts of the track can be very rough on the ankle´s, particularly in Galicia or if you are walking through snow or leaves and can't see what's underneath. Without the support of the boots and the balance given to me on a nearly daily basis by my hiking poles I suspect I would have injured my ankles more than a few times. Maybe I should have looked where I was going more but it's hard not to look at the beautiful scenery or talk to the many friends you'll meet. I also found the poles useful to give an extra push up the hills before I became fit enough to go without them (a few Km's outside Finnesterre).
I also agree with the point about grtting a strong poncho as the wind will destroy the cheap sort that you get at theme parks. I had a poncho that I slung over my rucksack as well but as I get hot when walking it was often too hot to wear it when it rained and so I wished I'd bought a cover for my rucksack instead. Whatever size rucksack you decide on do make sure you have some space left for food as sometimes you will have to walk for a few hours before finding somewhere to eat and never underestimate the power of chocolate, biscuits and fruit, especially when crossing the Pyrenees.
Good luck on your journey, it'll be well worth the wait. Just remember to check out which Albergues other members have recommended along the way as there are some excellent one's and some awful one's en route and it's always a nice feeling when you get it right.

 

[zammy]

We've allowed 45 days for this venture.
45 days to do the Camino from SJPP is a lot, get a map and calculate distances at an average of 20-22 km a day. add a zero day every 6-7 days, if you find you have spare days-start walking from ST Palais in France, this will give you 2-4 days of adjusting to the hike and will bring you to the mountain crossing in a better shape.
By the way- TRAIN TRAIN and TRAIN as much as you can, will get you fit and your feet won't suffer from blisters, get the shoes you chose (one a half size bigger) try your gear up and down hills, you won't be sorry, blisters and tendons problems are common to the untrained hikers.

1.) What are the best routes/modes of transportation to get to SJPP?

Search for a Ryan air or Easy jet from Paris to SJPP, it's a long tiring train ride from PAris, think of flying to London adn from there Easy jet etc to Biarits, from there a train to SJPP or St Palais.

2.) The backpack I purchased is a Gregory Inyo 35 XS. (weighs 3 lbs.) Is a 35 liter big enough, or should I get the 45 (only ads 4 oz. for the additional 10 liters of space.) I've packed the 35 with everything I "think" I need and it all fits, but after reading several suggested packing lists, I may be missing some items. (Currently, packed and not counting water the weight is at 12 lbs. I really want to keep it at no more than 16 as I am petite.)

45 is good, you will carry food, water.After 10 days you will be fit to carry a big load and even if you decide to add weight-no problems there.

3.) Boots or hiking shoes? Leather or Gortex? 4.) Walking poles? I've never hiked with them before.
If you train and get into shape hiking shoes will suffice, medium height is good and even low, as for Gortex- you will hike in a colder month with rain expected, get Gortex. Or leather that you wil wax when needed, but medium to light weoght shoes, no more then 400 grams per shoe.

5.) Has anyone walked in October? Just how much rain can I expect?

Even one day of heavy rain is enough, carry rain gear and Gortex shoes.

6.) Along those lines, Poncho, rain gear, rain pants? What is necessary?
Poncho that will cover your pack and down to your knees. water proff gaters.

We are also going to travel on to Fisterre.
Good, if you can do it walking- add 5 days to your plans including walking there, staying, getting back to Santiago.

7.) Any suggestions on the best transport back to Paris?
Easy jet or Ryan air, same if you chose London.


I KNOW I will have more questions, but at the moment this are the ones swimming around in my brain. Thank you all in advance for your input.

 

[annakappa]

Last year we walked from Roncevalles leaving on 16th Sept and arrived in Santiago on 23rd Oct. Most of the time it was fresh enough to need to wear a lightweight jacket over my T-shirt for most of the day. Occasionally in the early morning I would wear my fleece under the jacket. It rained on and off, but being mainly light showers, was easy to avoid apart from being caught in heavy rain climbing up the Alto del Perdón, which left loads of mud to deal with for the whole of the next day. Also we had a giant thunderstorm just before Leon, so took the bus into the city and then finally the last 3 days into Santiago were wet, wet, wet. We started out with 2 ponchos, mine split open going up the Alto del Perdón. We ended up buying a large umbrella in Leon, which we found a great solution: protection against the rain, against the sun and much more handy when walking around in towns and villages in the afternoon. It could easily be slipped down the outside of the pack when not needed. Our backpacks (mine 35 lt, Adriaan's 45 lt) come with a waterproof cover, so no problem there. I personally would not walk in anything but boots (mine are with Goretex - but they still got wet inside on a couple of occasions). I prefer the support around my ankles, especially when negotiating the descent of some tricky areas. I also feel that with the weight that you are carrying on your back, a good pair of boots helps to avoid a build up of pressure on your feet. However that's my opinion! Maybe it depends on age too - we are both in the "over 65" category.Anne

 

[Pacharan]

I am not going to offer comment on the perennial boots/shoes or poles/stick debates as people have given lots of advice already
I walked last year at almost exactly the same time as annakappa. It was a good time to go as the weather is good most of the time and not too crowded in most places.
It rained horrendously in the Pyrenees for our first day out of SJPP, then we had a couple of drizzly days, then one really wet day on the meseta and a couple of wet days in Galicia. The rest of the time was chilly in the early morning then warmed up to beautiful sunshine for the rest of the day. I came home with a great tan!
I took waterproof trousers and jacket and had a rain cover for my pack. There were pilgrims walking with us who ditched their ponchos for waterproof jackets in Pamplona because the wind blew the poncho up all the time.
Plus I packed everything in the pack in drybags. Not only does this keep your stuff dry but using various small bags to divide your kit makes it easier to find things in a hurry. You can also use a drybag to keep clothes/watch etc dry in the shower cubicles. I personally would be tempted to take a poncho as well as waterproofs as I did get really wet on a couple of days, but it would depend how much it weighed and how much space it took up. I guess I am just a wimp
I would suggest taking layers of clothes, preferably lightweight and fast-drying. I had icebreaker t-shirts and underwear, plus lightweight fleeces. I should have had a long sleeved top too for extra warmth in the last week as it was cold in some of the unheated and almost empty albergues and I ended up catching a stomach chill.
Hope this helps

 

[JacquelineRowe]

Hey IvySkye

I too am walking Sept/Oct. What dates are you departing St Jean? I'm flying from London to Biarritz then having the transport vehicle pick me up from Biarritz airport and drive the hour or so to St Jean. I'm departing St Jean on Saturday 25th and am just doing a little stretch on day one to Orisson.

I have bought the hiking boots CARN brand - they are a British make and are not the typical highcut hiking boot but an in between and they are sensational - along with the X-Bionic silver socks which are MAGIC and I've been doing 5-6hr walks at the weekend in them and not a hotspot in sight let alone a blister. I've been wearing them to and from work every day for the past 3 months - it's a 35min walk each way.

I will buy walking poles in St Jean and have been told they are absolutely not negotiable, particularly for coming down hills and also in muddy conditions which we will get quite a bit of going into the Galician area.

Buen Camino
Jacqui